Devilbiss DV1s Micro 0.9, Blending Silvers And Preparation Bumper Repair
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- Preparing a bumper for paint, and blending silvers using a solvent based paint with the Devilbiss DV1s Micro in 0.9mm, I hope you like the video. Thanks to everyone for watching. Cheers 👍
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Thanks for watching
Nuances /details are important! Just like reading, which few people do! So that being said while some people don’t watch your videos until the end, it’s their loss! Great video 👍
Hi Kevin, Thank you, mate, much appreciated 👍
Nice trick to pouring the paint!!!! I’ll definitely have to try that !!! Good video Pete 🤘
Hi buddy, yeah, it works well, even on big tins. Just make sure the tape seals on the rim of the tin, then it doesn't go under, cheers mate 👍
Hi Pete!
Such a great video with bunch of knowledgeable information. I learnt new things. Thanks. Cheers 🎉
Hi buddy, yes, it went on a bit, but hopefully, there was some informative stuff in there. Thank you 🙏
@@peteshobbies5383Im from northern europe and mostly we have very cold winters and it’s challenging to spray in these conditions in garage. And your tips helped me now and gave answers why i got problems what you mentioned.
Yes, it can be very challenging in winter. What part of northern Europe are you from? , I'm in the UK, which doesn't get too bad, although we had snow last night and the last few days have been too cold to paint as it's stayed at 0c in the day
@@peteshobbies5383From Latvia. This winter is one of the warmest in past decade. So its not too bad for painting 😁
You have it tougher than me with the weather. Hopefully, your winter won't be too cold. Cheers, mate 👍
Thanks for the info about the micro tips for this gun. Just what I was looking for. This and some of your bike frame painting videos have been helpful.
Hi Buddy, Good to hear it was some use. Thanks, it's much appreciated 👍
Hi Pete, loved the longer video but I realise you can't always do these as it's a lot of editing which is a long process, you did a damn good job getting the paint to match mate it looked spot on to me, this is something I'll never be able to do with my colour blindness it's impossible to match colours🙄🤭
The DV1s micro setup looks really nice and lays the paint very smoothly and that fan is perfect for this type of work, it would be good to see this gun laying the clear as I would say it makes a nice job of it🤔anyway mate a very well made video and I hope you get the playlist sorted to group these into one place👌cheers mate👍
Hi John, Thanks Mate, There's a few including us that use this colour, and they are mostly slightly different.
Fortunately, with this car, I had already gone through the process of getting it right before, so I knew the mix needed to get a good match, took 4 spray out cards last time to get there.
I managed to get the playlist sorted out, so I will add this to the first, then the last one can go on there as well. You see it on the car then, and it's spot in 😁
The little DV1S does really well with things like this, I'm hoping to do a few bike frames again so it will be good for that and I've got a guitar to do which I'm looking forward to, cheers mate 👍
I saw your playlist on here mate so now you have it sorted it will be useful for these jobs where there is more than one video for a job you are doing.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with painting a guitar it sounds like it could be a bit tricky but very interesting🤔👍
@JohnWD40TC02 Hi John, Yes mate, playlist all sorted, will put a few together of the older videos that cover a certain model maybe, we will see 😉.
Yes, a lot of people who watch these videos often mention guitars, so I thought I wouldn't mind having a go at that. I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes. Cheers, mate 👍
One mistake I made was using slower reducer from a tip I saw somewhere about getting flatter results. I couldn't figure out why I was getting so many reactions until I switched to the proper medium reducer for my temps. But the tip about dusting it on for the first coat or two has also helped me tremendously. It looks like another thing I've been doing wrong is flicking my wrist at the edge of blends. I'll try to keep your 90 degree tip in mind especially on the harder to match colors.
Hi Mate, I have a tin of slow thinners/reducer, and I rarely use it. It's only in the summer when temperatures are around 85F to 95F, very rare in the UK that I use it.
Most of the time, a standard version is fine, and yes, certainly a slow version keeps everything wet for longer, which will increase the chances of a reaction.
Certainly, flicking the wrist is something I used to do, but have learnt that it creates a rough edge that makes metallics lie different and they show up differently in different light, so keeping it at 90° certainly helps with that
Cheers buddy, appreciate it 👍
Brilliant video pete that's the devibliss smart repair gun my favourite gun good video there very well explained thanks for sharing that information pete 😊
Hi Andrew, Yeah, it is a bit of a long video, but hopefully, it will help someone. Cheers, mate 👍
Great job Pete, you need to do a mini gun showdown in the future.
Looks back through his videos. Seems like he did one not long ago
Been a couple of years since he did that one, but I'm guessing his top two mini guns from that video may still be the same.
I will get round to updating it, although I can't see it changing loads as the guns haven't changed, only good minis I got since are the Porphis MPH338 although that's more a micro than a mini, Meiji F110, Meiji Finer Spot and Meiji F Zero.
I will be getting very soon the Avalon A30 and the Meiji F111, so it would shake it up a bit
@@peteshobbies5383It would be interesting to see where that porphis mini rates compared to the others since I have 4 of their full size guns now. I've seen your videos on it and from all your other videos I'm leaning toward the LPH50 for a min/micro gun just for blending base in tighter areas. You've said several times full size guns just don't quite spray the same when you turn the fan way down. Since I'm still a novice I need the best atomization I can get for the money. I'd likely spring for the DV1S micro setup if money weren't an issue or I didnt have a good range of full size guns already. I think the LPH50 will be ideal unless you have a different opinion. As always I appreciate the videos and replies!
@Willgpi The LPH50 is a really good little gun. It's probably a little better than the Porphis, but it's more expensive, I don't think you would be disappointed with either, to be honest
At ~10:50 where you're talking about rub through into base coat , wet on wet sealers are made specifically for this mate , and most of said sealers are very good these days 👍
Hi Andrew, OK mate, I will take a look and see what's about, any suggestions?
I've had sealers react as well when using too slow of a reducer or getting too wet on the first coat. I am using relatively cheap sealers but had the same issue with two brands now. Dusting the first coat and proper speed reducer still seems to be the way.
@peteshobbies5383 I can't remember which product you use sorry mate , but as a rule of thumb: for mechanical adhesion (sanded) you can use (pretty much) what ever product you like , for chemical adhesion (wet on wet) , use the same branded product , as it adheres to the catalyst (in short) 👍 . This gets pretty muddy with so many brands owned by the same company , I'd highly advise having a chat with your paint rep 👍 .
Just for example , the rear bar you painted in this vid , one of the sealers I use would negate the need for the primer if there were no major repairs (valspar cps 2035, which is also tintable) and the old paint feathered out nicely . It speeds the process up quite a bit!
@Willgpi I'm probably in a bit of a different climate to you , but I've have very few issues with sealer , I've found the industrial grade to be the best . When I first started using it , I thought there was no way it would do what I needed with the amount of reducer required , maybe I've been lucky 🫣
@andrewntoth1 OK mate, I'll take a look 👍
Pete, you could use a transparant epoxy isolating primer over your repais on the bumper (1K stuff based on epoxy resins with ethanol as a non-agressive thinner), which is originally meant to seal old sanded paint / sand throughs / repairs prior to 2K primer to avoid mapping.
But you can also add your basecoat directly to it. In that case you don't have to be carefull with your silver on the repairs but can immediately fully go to town.
Hi Harold, I've not seen a transparent isolating primer, I'll see what I can find, cheers 👍
Mipa (German brand) has it, it's called 1K-isolator.
@Harolddespui ok, thanks. I'll take a look 👍
Just got a can of that Mipa 1k-isolator stuff. I opened it (it's as thin as reduced basecoat) but it doesn't look transparant! So i mailed the shop who sold it (they claimed on their website it's transparant) and got the answer back that it turns transparant while drying.
Now that would surprise me. 😂
Anyhow, it looks good stuff to me to isolate old paintlayers before applying your 2K primer to prevent mapping so it's not useless for me when it's not fully transparant but we'll see.
@Harolddespui Ok, please let me know how it goes, I have an Upol isolator , but it's not clear
The first Honda silver I did my base with an aerosol can. It ended up too dark to match but i redid the spots with the same base over a white sealer instead of gray primer and ended up with a better match surprisingly.
Hi mate, Yes, absolutely, the base primer colour certainly will make a difference, I did a video of how much the primer can change the colour.
Normally, the rule of thumb is to use a primer more or less the same as the base colour with the base colour in black and white, so take a monochrome photo of the paintwork and go for that shade.
I keep a big tin of black primer, a tin of white primer, and mix it to make a shade.
I also keep a tin of light grey pre made primer as it's handy for a lot of colours without having to mix primers.
Me again.....Yes most fenders and bumpers do not match. The bumpers are mostly plastics now days so the paint look different on plastic as against metals fenders. The one thing i do is after every base coat i tak cloth. Before the last base coat i very lightly sand with a 1000 dry soft pad, tak cloth then the final base coat comes out mint...Cheers from Kiwi Great video mate...
It's funny, if ever I'm out, walking, cycling etc, I will go around car parks looking for miss matched bumpers 😂
That sounds like a trick with the base coat, I will give it a try, see how it goes, cheers mate, enjoy your summer, it's cold and wet here, haven't been able to do anything paint wise for the last 2 days 😉
Yes try it it works great,
great job pete 👍👍 and fyi 400g is risky advice for blending areas mate not all vehicles are equal, 800g is the norm its all i use daily, sometimes 600g is acceptable but 400g is very sketchy i know the clear will cover it but the risk of burn through is very high for your viewers not a dig at all mate just my 2cents from a professional stand point 👊👊👊👊
Hi Grant, No offence taken mate, the more different viewpoints, the better as far as I'm concerned 😉
I think I said I always used to use 600 or 800. Maybe it was another video, but I found 400 to be just as good and, in my mind, will give a better key.
But, you are right, the courser the grit the more chance you have of burning through.
Also, using a 2.5 orbit sander can help to avoid problems as they don't seem so aggressive.
Thanks as always, mate, it's always appreciated. Hopefully, you're not out in this weather, are you ?
@ I have another workshop now but still spraying in -3 🤣🤣🤣 it’s definitely fresh, my vans off the road till the end of the month so I’m just trying to direct customers to my workshop it’s a lot easier and I can do some videos for my UA-cam I want to get back into it this year
@grantssmartrepairs Yes, certainly a lot more controlled inside.
I genuinely didn't realise you were making videos, I hadn't looked, but I have just seen you've done a fair few. Anyway, I just subscribed , I'll try and get a look at some and see what you're up too, cheers Grant ✌️
@ yeah been at it a while mate fell out of love with UA-cam then had a lot going on so neglected it a bit but there’s some good videos on there 👍👍👍
@grantssmartrepairs I'll take a look mate, it does take a lot of time doing the UA-cam stuff, as you'll know so I can understand how you fell out of love with it in this busy world, cheers Grant 👍
Good day Mr Pete,
Really enjoying your review videos , you are doing fantastic job with those.
Got a question to ask you.
I have a mobile bumper / light bodywork repair unit.
Using dv1 s mini/ midi spray guns for the paint and clear . Mainly upol panel repair clear.
No other brand that I have tried can come even close to devilbiss minigun.
I am using kiwami 4 for my sealer and primer applications.
Also an amazing gun .
I am looking to purchase full size clear coat gun for bigger panels such as doors , quater panels and even hoods.
So far I have tried sata 5500 - too much air and material consumption,
Devilbiss pro lite - great but still using plastic parts and also high air consumption.
Iwata ws400 series 2 - somehow despite of all the hype - i dislike this gun the most . I can not dial this one in at all .
I truly can do better clear coat application with the $275 kiwami4 than with this 800 dollar gun.
I do only have 1.6 hp , 5.1 scfm @ 90psi compressor with 50 gallons tank.
What would you recommend for me to get in search of a clear coat only gun that would produce as glossy and as flat finish possible.
Greatly appreciate your input sir 👍👍
Keep spraying 😎
Hi Pete aa you know i do this all day every day. Yes paint matching is an act. Taken me many years to get it right, and many paint systems, most are shit. Metallics are the worse, trying to get the metallics to lay down right....
Hi mate, Yes, matching exciting paint has got to be the hardest part.
As you will know, all systems will have their problems.
Mine struggles with whites. Fortunately, I rarely do whites, so it's not a problem.
I wouldn't be as good as someone like you for knowing what to add to bring a colour up to match if it's out, but I don't do too bad
Cheers buddy 👍
Jon Kosmoski (House of Kolor) always told in his video's, do the next coat of clear when the first one is sticky, not stringy! 😂
(which means if you pull your finger off there should be no more strings of clear on it)
Hi Mate, did I say stringy?
No, i just quoted what Jon always said ;-)
Didn't mean to offend you, i wouldn't dare. 😂
No worries, mate, no, not offended. I just thought I was cracking up 🤣😂, I thought, did I say stringy instead of tacky or sticky 🤔 😅.
Harold, I received the 5500, it seems that everything fits and works from the Sata version, I don't know if it sprays the same as a Sata with the Sata parts in it, as I haven't got that far, and won't for a while, but the parts fit 👍
Wonderfull! 😂 Thanks Pete, i will treat myself with a CC nozzleset now.