I have a 2016 evoque with 100,000km on it. My original dpf is perfect, regenerations are always on the highway, the duration is about 12 minutes and the temperature never exceeds 650 degrees during the process. The problem is that doing the regenerations in the city destroys the dpf because the process takes more than 30 minutes, it is a land rover design flaw. It is also not good to force the engine during the regeneration because that can raise the temperature close to 800 degrees. The ideal is to maintain a speed of 90/100 km/h during the process, but that makes you a slave to your car and not the other way around.
same with a normal I.C.E. City stop/start driving can cause abnormal wear on the engine internals due to oil dilution, carbon buildup, etc. Every 6 - 8 weeks I take my car on a 20 - 30 minute drive & 80 - 100km/h to burn off excess moisture & exhaust soot. Gets the engine & lubricants up to operating temperature & works a treat.
I monitored every DPF regen on mine for over 15,000 km, it always takes 20+ minutes for the process to complete, regardless of city or motorway riding. I have never had a 10 minute or 30 minute cycle. I also monitor the exhaust temps at engine and at DPF. Neither ever went over 700C (688 C was the max I've ever recorded), so not sure how you got to 800 C?
I have a 2011 1.6hdi from new, 200,000 miles, original dpf, egr, exhaust, water pump, radiator etc etc. Most trips are 25minutes, the only issue was an injector replacement 30k ago. I’m sure driving habits are biggest reason for trouble. People with Euro6 in citys should stop driving diesels imho.
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I’ve seen one where it was the firewall cloth type stuff they seal the dpf with was completely gone and dpf was rattling about and was causing that code and nothing to do with dpf performance, I’m pretty sure they’ve done this on purpose to get some egr parts sold
What would happen if an EGR "solution" is done? Will it work better? I have a jaguar XF with po49b fault that keeps coming back and considering getting the egr deleted bit want to find out more about the negatives of getting this done
In a age where there are so many manufacturers making much better cars than these i can only assume people who buy these are clearly kept in the dark about how unreliable they are
Quick question. With more modern dpf systems with a 5th injector. Do you still have to do oil change after every forced regen. If so is this because the engine injectors are firing on exhaustroke.
I’ve got the same code and a slightly sooty exhaust. However my pressure is 8kpa at 3000rpm which is normal according to your videos? Do you still think the dpf is cracked/breaking up?
Is it all to do with the driving styles, perhaps so many of these arent used at any time for their intended use and a small kerb is the most they ever need to climb and 2 miles on a school run?
Hi jimmy what would cause back pressure out of the engine oil filler cap . I do have a code for back pressure but can you explain why this is happening please .
this system with the DPF under the vehicle does not passively regenerate at all. every regeneration is active with post fuel injection. that heats the DPF much hotter on a regular basis to compensate for no passive regeneration. I don't imagine driving through a puddle of water when it's that hot is helpful for the life expectancy.
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Ever looked at a cracked one to see if welding it is possible Jimmy? End of the day, its steel, it ought be repairable? I'm also 100% convinced cutting the pipes & putting in some couplers to allow easy removal of just the DPF wouldn't be very difficult. In fact I know it would be a doddle just from watching the set-up in your vid.
@@trialsted If the housing doesn't crack, then there's no leak, just slightly crapper "de-pollution" and the differential pressure sensors may whinge (probably not) - so I'm betting the housing cracks. I may be wrong, but I doubt it.
@@jamesward5721 he said it leaked pressure, not that gas leaked out of the exhaust system. My understanding is that the core of the DPF fails and exhaust gas and soot leaks past the core and hence the pressure is not produced by the restriction. And as he said, the problem here is that excessive soot makes its way back through to the EGR, meaning it didn't get captured in the core of the DPF - but like you say, I doubt you're wrong.
@@trialsted EGrs can be blanked to take them out of the equation, a DPF is just a fancy filter with 2 pressure monitors, one before, one after, the software can be altered to make them PFO & the engine runs fine without either anyway. Let's not get caught up in semantics. I also barely care. The ECU is a dumb computer that just looks for certain parameters to be met - there are many ways to ensure it sees those parameters even if they don't exist. You can get raped at the main dealers, or else find a few Eastern European Pals who know their stuff. I know which route I prefer/work in. You're just looking for a row & I don't want one/care.
Having those issues and seeing that rust, i would sell it asap.. Its a chelsea tractor & a pile of crap which has probally lost the owner a small fortune..Sell, sell, sell, while you can
LIKE A TOP PERSON ONCE SAID about ITGOBANGROVERS..... WHERE THREE OR MORE ARE GATHERED TOGETHER IN THY NAME..... THERE AM I IN THE MIDST OF THEM WITH MYRAC RECOVERY TRUCK.
My cousin had one. She described it as a “real off road car”, as in it spent more time off the road being repaired!
Excellent wording 😂😂
I would say the diagram was perfect, simple and easy to follow and a great explanation as to what is causing the problem.
I have a 2016 evoque with 100,000km on it. My original dpf is perfect, regenerations are always on the highway, the duration is about 12 minutes and the temperature never exceeds 650 degrees during the process. The problem is that doing the regenerations in the city destroys the dpf because the process takes more than 30 minutes, it is a land rover design flaw. It is also not good to force the engine during the regeneration because that can raise the temperature close to 800 degrees.
The ideal is to maintain a speed of 90/100 km/h during the process, but that makes you a slave to your car and not the other way around.
same with a normal I.C.E. City stop/start driving can cause abnormal wear on the engine internals due to oil dilution, carbon buildup, etc. Every 6 - 8 weeks I take my car on a 20 - 30 minute drive & 80 - 100km/h to burn off excess moisture & exhaust soot. Gets the engine & lubricants up to operating temperature & works a treat.
I monitored every DPF regen on mine for over 15,000 km, it always takes 20+ minutes for the process to complete, regardless of city or motorway riding. I have never had a 10 minute or 30 minute cycle.
I also monitor the exhaust temps at engine and at DPF. Neither ever went over 700C (688 C was the max I've ever recorded), so not sure how you got to 800 C?
I have a 2011 1.6hdi from new, 200,000 miles, original dpf, egr, exhaust, water pump, radiator etc etc. Most trips are 25minutes, the only issue was an injector replacement 30k ago. I’m sure driving habits are biggest reason for trouble. People with Euro6 in citys should stop driving diesels imho.
Land Rover in general- Avoid completely they will break your heart and wallet.
LIKE A TOP PERSON ONCE SAID about ITGOBANGROVERS.....
WHERE THREE OR MORE ARE GATHERED TOGETHER IN THY NAME.....
THERE AM I IN THE MIDST OF THEM
WITH MYRAC RECOVERY TRUCK.
The good old Ingenium Engine it never dissappoints
so did you solve it and how? thanks
I’ve seen one where it was the firewall cloth type stuff they seal the dpf with was completely gone and dpf was rattling about and was causing that code and nothing to do with dpf performance, I’m pretty sure they’ve done this on purpose to get some egr parts sold
What would happen if an EGR "solution" is done? Will it work better? I have a jaguar XF with po49b fault that keeps coming back and considering getting the egr deleted bit want to find out more about the negatives of getting this done
In a age where there are so many manufacturers making much better cars than these i can only assume people who buy these are clearly kept in the dark about how unreliable they are
Jimmy you are a DPF ARTIST😂😂
Great video!
Thanks Jimmy,,, have a great week 👌
has that Land Rover been driven through salt water? Plenty of rust in/around the chassis.
its because of salt from the road in winter.
Don't buy a Landover?
Nicely explained , lot of rust there,?
Quick question. With more modern dpf systems with a 5th injector. Do you still have to do oil change after every forced regen. If so is this because the engine injectors are firing on exhaustroke.
no..... there is no post injection to get into the oil
Great explanation, thanks for share 👍
electrics by LUCAS - 'THE PRINCE OF DARKNESS'
I’ve got the same code and a slightly sooty exhaust. However my pressure is 8kpa at 3000rpm which is normal according to your videos? Do you still think the dpf is cracked/breaking up?
If you clean the dpf it will reveal the true pressure and very likely its below 40mbar
Warranty company says 2.5 hrs to change the egr and cooler….all I heard today was “Bollards is this a f-ing 2 and a half hour job” 😂
Is it all to do with the driving styles, perhaps so many of these arent used at any time for their intended use and a small kerb is the most they ever need to climb and 2 miles on a school run?
School run must be a killer. I'm sure they only live a 4 minute walk from the school so the car is constantly on cold start 🤓
perfectly explained. LR should have designed this out
Hi jimmy what would cause back pressure out of the engine oil filler cap . I do have a code for back pressure but can you explain why this is happening please .
Has it got piston cooling jets code?
@@ORileysAutos codes are all dpf side ok
4501
480A
481A
4D00 back pressure
4141 swirl flat Actuator
4B37 oil condition sensor .
rings/bore DAMAGE.
this system with the DPF under the vehicle does not passively regenerate at all. every regeneration is active with post fuel injection. that heats the DPF much hotter on a regular basis to compensate for no passive regeneration. I don't imagine driving through a puddle of water when it's that hot is helpful for the life expectancy.
Why would they put the egr pipe after the dpf then route it back into the engine, havnt seen any other design like that before.
actually, it's very common. It's a dual EGR system and is much more efficient. it's used in other vehicle makes as well.
JLR always come bottom in any Reliability Survey, Lease them when new or don't go near them they have been garbage for decades.
LIKE A TOP PERSON ONCE SAID about ITGOBANGROVERS.....
WHERE THREE OR MORE ARE GATHERED TOGETHER IN THY NAME.....
THERE AM I IN THE MIDST OF THEM
WITH MYRAC RECOVERY TRUCK.
So what is the cure?
10 out of 10. Makes so much more sense now and your diagram was perfect plz make more content ❤❤
Thanks
Ever looked at a cracked one to see if welding it is possible Jimmy? End of the day, its steel, it ought be repairable? I'm also 100% convinced cutting the pipes & putting in some couplers to allow easy removal of just the DPF wouldn't be very difficult. In fact I know it would be a doddle just from watching the set-up in your vid.
I don't believe it's the housing that cracks but the filter material itself, which I think is generally a ceramic material
@@trialsted If the housing doesn't crack, then there's no leak, just slightly crapper "de-pollution" and the differential pressure sensors may whinge (probably not) - so I'm betting the housing cracks. I may be wrong, but I doubt it.
I also bet I can weld one back shut & install couplers so it becomes a 20 minute job instead of 4 hours. I'm alright like that.
@@jamesward5721 he said it leaked pressure, not that gas leaked out of the exhaust system. My understanding is that the core of the DPF fails and exhaust gas and soot leaks past the core and hence the pressure is not produced by the restriction. And as he said, the problem here is that excessive soot makes its way back through to the EGR, meaning it didn't get captured in the core of the DPF - but like you say, I doubt you're wrong.
@@trialsted EGrs can be blanked to take them out of the equation, a DPF is just a fancy filter with 2 pressure monitors, one before, one after, the software can be altered to make them PFO & the engine runs fine without either anyway. Let's not get caught up in semantics. I also barely care. The ECU is a dumb computer that just looks for certain parameters to be met - there are many ways to ensure it sees those parameters even if they don't exist. You can get raped at the main dealers, or else find a few Eastern European Pals who know their stuff. I know which route I prefer/work in. You're just looking for a row & I don't want one/care.
when it's FLOWING CORRECTLY it is UPSIDE DOWN IN A CANAL.
Good explanation thanks
You are welcome
I'm wondering whether that pot you are referring to is rather the SCR Cat Converter and NOT the DPF?
nope! that is the DPF
hi jimmy enjoy you r channel
Oh the joys
2-litre Nightmare morelike 😞
NICE work AS always 👍 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Got a 2.2 they are bullet proof just change the oil often 120000 miles and going strong
Miles better engine
Just has to be one of the most unreliable motors ever to hit the road !
S hit the road
YOU FORGOT the S
Can't believe the rust underneath . Be in scrap yard by the time it's 10 years old .
Having those issues and seeing that rust, i would sell it asap.. Its a chelsea tractor & a pile of crap which has probally lost the owner a small fortune..Sell, sell, sell, while you can
2.0ltr land rovers 🤢
LIKE A TOP PERSON ONCE SAID about ITGOBANGROVERS.....
WHERE THREE OR MORE ARE GATHERED TOGETHER IN THY NAME.....
THERE AM I IN THE MIDST OF THEM
WITH MYRAC RECOVERY TRUCK.
ITGOBANGROVER MOUNTBATTEN.