Usually when the guy doing the videos makes it look effortless, they did multiple takes and edited it heavily. This time it looks effortless because the guy knows things and is a forge-wizard.
Много времени экономить будете с такой смесью! Браво! Тому кто придумал эту смесь: графит и молибден! Спасибо за ролик. С большим нетерпением жду ваши видео! Респект!
I completely forgot about this stuff. Our Welding and Metal Shop teacher told us about it and gave us a recipe, but we never used it - mostly because we only spent a few days on Blacksmithing. Thank you for the memory and reminder... Now, if only I could remember the recipe.
@@torbjornahman i used them extensively in an industrial hot forging environment and they are decent but not even close to the graphite molybdenum based products. parts slide along the surface much better of the tool and less heat transfer and better release. the only "White lube" product that has a similar structure to graphite is Boron nitride which works wonderfully but is extremely expensive and not an affordable option
I have both powders on the shelf but it never occurred to me to use either, let alone both, as a hot lube for punching/drifting. Wow, it's like magic compared to coal dust. Thank you!!!
@@torbjornahman I really like the water soluble mix you have here. I think it seems to be better than if you have a flamable medium. I may be wrong, but this worked surprisingly well
@@Jimmy_in_Mexico Yes, just be aware that it is water based... so don't quench any red hot H13 punches or drifts in it (although I have seen people do that too)!
@@torbjornahman This is why I make my punches and drifts from Atlantic 33. If they get too hot I can just heat them up to dull red and re-quench them in water and I'm right back in business. Sometimes if I leave the drift in the steel long enough it'll actually get to the right temperature that I can just pull it right out of the steel and re-quench it so that saves a step. This is why I call Atlantic 33 "magical happy steel" and it's become my go-to steel for tools.
Bet you forgot about me! Still noticing your editing. That nice reset so that you could show yourself adding the soap was completely unnecessary... and completely worth it. That little bubble in the air made me grin so much. Thank you, once again, for your details in these videos.
Man that works a treat, Torbjorn! Seems like it could be used for other things as well. Moly and graphite are some of the best lubes, imho. Thanks for sharing this recipe from Mr. Hofi in his memory!! Great editing on the 2 camera shots!!
Moly powder and graphite powder with beeswax and alittle water to make it like a butter is great. butter up every axe drift before using. this recipe is better than white lube (sodium hydroxide), using the moly/graph lube also prevents material deformation when drift is going into the workpiece, the graphite creates a skin on the drift allowing the hot steel to slide along the surface of the drift a bit before it is burnt up.
@@broadriverforge Could a hard block of wax (with powder melted in) work too? To rub on? Or it might be too much wax if you can actually get it to a block state again?
@@torbjornahman ive done it that way but for the big drifting i found using small paint brush and having the moly,wax graphite powerder with a little bit of water just so its a thick slurry is easy to butter it up, i like a decent coat for the drifting i do but a hard block of wax would go on well if the drifts not too hot and just the right warmth so it melts on
Lube wont just make things release easier. It will also change how parts compress. A lubed die will exhibit less barreling due to frictional factors while forging a part. For steel industry typically uses graphite powder when a lubricant is used.
@@cholulahotsauce6166 Imagine crushing a cylander from the flat ends. Ideally we would get a perfect cylander. But friction prevents the ends from squishing out like the center. The resulting shape looks like a barrel.
Thanks for this very informative video, it will be a great help to those making axes, hammers etc. Condolences for the loss of your friend Uri Hofi, it is sad to lose those we admire and trust. Regards from Down Under.
Brother Torbjörn!! I like your recipe! I have used graphite and beeswax for years. I love it but the wax can smoke. I think I will try your idea. Ha! I always do. TIP: agricultural graphite is the best choice - at least here in the U.S. Far cheaper than what can be bought at the hardware store. Ag graphite comes in 5 lb jugs for a fraction of the cost. My best to you and yours!
When Iearned punching holes the master told me, to put a little amount of coal grit on the surface of the piece and into the advancing hole, this worked out also very well. I enjoy your videos very much, the sound of the power hammer is very familiar to me. Regards from germany
Thanks so much for shareing. I now have a power hammer and want to finish making your pumpkin candle holder. This should make punching thr tapered hole for the candle easier.
As I wrote in the description, this is one recipe of many. Be aware this is a water based lube, so don't quench anything that doesn't like water... I will probably make a wax based variant also, to try out.
I used to moly coat bullets for reloading and after reading on the bottle of molybdenum disulfide the extreme heat and preesure it can withstand I mixed some with linseed oil and used that as a drift lube with great results. I was wiping it on though and this dipping technique looks much better. Gonna have to get some graphite and see how much that helps too.
Cool. I will try to mix in some powder in melted beeswax also to see how that works. The water based is good for dipping, but will sediment with time so you need to stirr it after a while.
@@torbjornahman Never Seize is essentially the same, doesn't sediment or dry up and a lot cheaper than putting this together . It uses aluminum in place of the moly which makes it safer. The fumes coming off molybdenum are carcinogenic Why reinvent the wheel ?
That's a useful "magic trick"! I'll have to whip some of this up for myself. Without the liquid soap and the water, it's basically what I use to lubricate woodstove hinges and similar in situations where it's going to be exceptionally hot for long periods of time. Any conventional lubricant would simply cause issues as it burned.
Nice! I'll have to try making this stuff. I've been using just some powdered graphite recently and it's actually worked surprisingly well; was going to mix it with some melted beeswax as I've heard that's a decent punch lube but this stuff looks pretty promising and will certainly stick to the punch a whole lot better.
Man! Thanx a lot for this recipe!!! Have been fiddling around with store-bought graphitegrease but boy, does it smell nasty. This really is going to help me a lot. Keep up the good work, always enjoy your video's!
Fantastiska videos. Genom dig har jag lärt mig massvis om smide och jag känner att jag är på god väg att bli nybörjare smed och få leva ut barndomsdrömmen till slut. Fantastic videos. Through you, i've learned so mush and I'm well on my way to become a blacksmith novice. Childhood dream soon accomplished. =)
Torbjörn, always keep your airflow hood running, specially with lubricants' use. I know that can make your shop very cold but some of these fluids can be absorbed into the body very easily.
A Small lump of coal or powdered coal as been used in industrial for hundreds of years ,I use it my self for deep hole punching up-to 10” in carbon steel .for drop forge it was hard wood sawdust .👍
@@torbjornahman high there ,you are right it was a information to anybody to use, there are thing that have been lost to blacksmith and they need to be documented ,for example just one foil chewing gum wrapper in a coke forge will stop you fire welding .A clean fire and fuel is very important .Red lead powder mixed with paraffin is a barrier to molten cast iron ,you don’t need to use flux to get a good fire weld ,the scarf is the most important part .The more heats used to forge something degrades the parent metal.Coal as to be coked to be used in a open forge .black hot metal makes skin stick to it . Tempering is done after hardening .wrought iron starts its life as a bloom.Upsetting before you bend can give you a radius free bend .to calculate how long a revert needs to be to make a full cup is (the diameter half the diameter +1/8 of a inch.just a few things that I have used in the past 50 years of blacksmithing Kind regards JimRT.
That's some potent stuff! Mr. Hofi must have been one clever guy. Seeing it makes me wonder why every blacksmith doesn't use it all the time. It even _looks_ cool.
There are many variations of this and many blacksmiths use them all the time. Where did you get the impression that they didn't ? With enough experience, a blacksmith will rarely get a tool stuck . I know how frustrating it can be for beginners.
@@maplebones I'm not a smith, just a looky-loo here on UA-cam. I've seen a few people try out e.g. coke dust, with mixed results, but not a purpose-made lubricant. It could be that everyone does use stuff like this, but they don't show it on camera, so I wouldn't know.
@@crystalsoulslayer I understand. Blacksmiths probably don't think to mention it because it's not a critical element. It's like training wheels on a bicycle. After a while they learn to avoid stuck tools by using the proper technique. It's one of those things that's hard to teach and comes with experience. Those having mixed results with coke dust will likely continue to have mixed results with other lubricants.
Very nice and very helpful and definitely information video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Forge lit. Keep Making. God Bless.
I worked at a copper and molybdenum mine years ago. That molybdenum disulfide is what we were concentrating. You want to talk about a dirty job, that stuff milled down to a fine powder and made into a slurry or after it was dried. It was something else. Slick stuff though.
Really like punch lube from Big Blu ! It's a calcium water based spray with temperature die in it.. great stuff! Wonder why soap instead of a traditional beeswax? Might give this a try 👍
Thank you for this, and all that you do. Some time back, you mentioned using pine tar as a finish coat to preserve against oxidization. What is the recipe for that, please?
Great video. Composition not all that surprising, as molybdenum disulfide has been used to coat artillery projectiles for more than a hundred years, but it's fascinating to see how the lube is made.
Jeg hadde aldri tenkt på å blande disse med såpe og vann. men det ser ut som det fungerer utmerket for å få pulveret til å henge fast!! Jeg har laget en blanding av grafitt, voks og olje, men det brenner og er litt grisete. neste gang skal jeg prøve såpe og kanskje også dette molybdem pulveret blandet inn.. genialt!
Actually, I do have a question: the MoS2…. Are you not concerned with sulphur contamination in the alloy in thin forging? Embrittlement? Or does it stay in the scale?
I would be surprised if it had any affect at all on the material. It needs time to diffuse into the steel. Most will probably just fall off with the scale as you say.
@@torbjornahman seems reasonable. I’ve erred on the side of caution in casting with boron nitride. Mostly to minimize the oxide layer. But also to aide investment removal. A similar function. But, not inexpensive
Очень нравятся ваши видео. Вы настоящий МАСТЕР! У вас очень много инструментов и у каждого своя задача - это ещё раз подтверждает ваше мастерство.Здоровья вам и успехов в творчестве! Like your videos very much. You are a real MASTER! You have a lot of tools and each has its own task - this once again confirms your skill. Health to you and success in your work! Videolarınızı çok beğeniyorum. Sen gerçek bir MASTER'sın! Çok sayıda aracınız var ve her birinin kendi görevi var - bu, becerinizi bir kez daha onaylıyor Size sağlık ve işinizde başarı!
I wish I had the forge and time for this I want to learn so bad I've been watching for a long time .....one of these days I'll have a place I can begin the process of setting something small up to learn some basics
Rest in peace Uri Hofi and thank you very much Torbjörn Åhman for passing the information.💐
I join your comment...
💜
I watch a LOT of blacksmith videos but this is the first time I see or even hear about forge lube - pretty cool!
I have seen a tool dipped in something before but never knew what it was. I thought it was coal dust.
It makes a huge difference, punching a hole.
Cree@@torbjornahman
Usually when the guy doing the videos makes it look effortless, they did multiple takes and edited it heavily. This time it looks effortless because the guy knows things and is a forge-wizard.
Thanks, I edit too :)
@@torbjornahman shhhhhh! 😂
The "multiple takes" is in the fact that his forge-wizardry is many years in the making.
Rest in peace Uri Hofi.
Thanks Torbjörn Åhman for the video, I send you greetings from the south of Argentina.
It's almost hard to believe how well it works!! Mr. Hofi will be remembered by anyone using this recipe. Thanks for sharing and take care!!
Watching it slide out so effortlessly @ 3:40 has me sold. I'm definitely trying this stuff when I get my new shop set up!
Много времени экономить будете с такой смесью! Браво! Тому кто придумал эту смесь: графит и молибден!
Спасибо за ролик. С большим нетерпением жду ваши видео! Респект!
Тем не менее, Леонид Архангельский рулит!
@@user-id8gy3vw2f? При чем тут он?
One of those simple engineering tips, that saves a whole bunch of frustration and impatience !
I completely forgot about this stuff. Our Welding and Metal Shop teacher told us about it and gave us a recipe, but we never used it - mostly because we only spent a few days on Blacksmithing. Thank you for the memory and reminder... Now, if only I could remember the recipe.
Going to have to make some of this stuff! Thanks for sharing 😊
It's clearly something else compared to coal dust... I haven't tried the salt based products. They are good too it seems.
@@torbjornahman i used them extensively in an industrial hot forging environment and they are decent but not even close to the graphite molybdenum based products. parts slide along the surface much better of the tool and less heat transfer and better release. the only "White lube" product that has a similar structure to graphite is Boron nitride which works wonderfully but is extremely expensive and not an affordable option
@@broadriverforge Cool, good to know!
I have both powders on the shelf but it never occurred to me to use either, let alone both, as a hot lube for punching/drifting. Wow, it's like magic compared to coal dust. Thank you!!!
It is! I will try mixing some powder with melted beeswax also, and see how that works.
@@torbjornahman I really like the water soluble mix you have here. I think it seems to be better than if you have a flamable medium. I may be wrong, but this worked surprisingly well
@@Jimmy_in_Mexico Yes, just be aware that it is water based... so don't quench any red hot H13 punches or drifts in it (although I have seen people do that too)!
@@torbjornahman This is why I make my punches and drifts from Atlantic 33. If they get too hot I can just heat them up to dull red and re-quench them in water and I'm right back in business. Sometimes if I leave the drift in the steel long enough it'll actually get to the right temperature that I can just pull it right out of the steel and re-quench it so that saves a step. This is why I call Atlantic 33 "magical happy steel" and it's become my go-to steel for tools.
@@torbjornahman разогретый воск смешать с льняным маслом
Bet you forgot about me! Still noticing your editing. That nice reset so that you could show yourself adding the soap was completely unnecessary... and completely worth it. That little bubble in the air made me grin so much. Thank you, once again, for your details in these videos.
I laughed at the tiny bubble too!
Thunder Bear’s Bubbles
Beautiful drift ! I see the Anvil can be used for many things….a chemists bench being one of them. 👍. JC🌵
Absolutely!
Torbjörn is showing us the secrets of blacksmithing magic. Very practical.
It’s always a pain to rivet a drift in a hole you’re punching. Life got a lot easier when I started using punch lube 👍
Unless you deform the punch in the hole... ouch...
@@torbjornahman that would not be fun to drill out
Thank you for passing along this great tip. This helps Uri's memory continue on and throughout the world.
Thanks for sharing the recipe Thorbjörn. RIP Uri ⚒
I’m extremely impressed by how easily that drift fell out of the hole
Man that works a treat, Torbjorn! Seems like it could be used for other things as well. Moly and graphite are some of the best lubes, imho. Thanks for sharing this recipe from Mr. Hofi in his memory!! Great editing on the 2 camera shots!!
Thanks 👍
Thanks
Thank you Marcus!!
You're welcome, Torbjörn
Moly powder and graphite powder with beeswax and alittle water to make it like a butter is great. butter up every axe drift before using. this recipe is better than white lube (sodium hydroxide), using the moly/graph lube also prevents material deformation when drift is going into the workpiece, the graphite creates a skin on the drift allowing the hot steel to slide along the surface of the drift a bit before it is burnt up.
I'm going to try the wax also!
@@torbjornahman just brush it on when the drift is warm and your ready to go
@@broadriverforge Could a hard block of wax (with powder melted in) work too? To rub on? Or it might be too much wax if you can actually get it to a block state again?
@@torbjornahman ive done it that way but for the big drifting i found using small paint brush and having the moly,wax graphite powerder with a little bit of water just so its a thick slurry is easy to butter it up, i like a decent coat for the drifting i do but a hard block of wax would go on well if the drifts not too hot and just the right warmth so it melts on
I'm wondering if Vaseline would be a good carrier.
Lube wont just make things release easier. It will also change how parts compress. A lubed die will exhibit less barreling due to frictional factors while forging a part. For steel industry typically uses graphite powder when a lubricant is used.
It makes total sense!
What's barreling?
@@cholulahotsauce6166 Imagine crushing a cylander from the flat ends. Ideally we would get a perfect cylander. But friction prevents the ends from squishing out like the center. The resulting shape looks like a barrel.
Thanks for this very informative video, it will be a great help to those making axes, hammers etc. Condolences for the loss of your friend Uri Hofi, it is sad to lose those we admire and trust. Regards from Down Under.
Thanks!
Thanks!!
Brother Torbjörn!! I like your recipe! I have used graphite and beeswax for years. I love it but the wax can smoke. I think I will try your idea. Ha! I always do. TIP: agricultural graphite is the best choice - at least here in the U.S. Far cheaper than what can be bought at the hardware store. Ag graphite comes in 5 lb jugs for a fraction of the cost. My best to you and yours!
Sweet, good tip! Thanks
Looks like a real game changer Torbjörn !
Yea, it's a huge difference with or without. Then, how it compares to other release agents can be subjective I guess. Try it!!
When Iearned punching holes the master told me, to put a little amount of coal grit on the surface of the piece and into the advancing hole, this worked out also very well. I enjoy your videos very much, the sound of the power hammer is very familiar to me.
Regards from germany
Yes, that is mostly what I have done until now. This is way better though.
This is some great stuff Mr. Torbjörn. You must be a true Master Blacksmith. Job well done fella.
Love watching you making your forgeries.
Thanks so much for shareing. I now have a power hammer and want to finish making your pumpkin candle holder. This should make punching thr tapered hole for the candle easier.
I am definitely saving this video so I can write everything down later.
As I wrote in the description, this is one recipe of many. Be aware this is a water based lube, so don't quench anything that doesn't like water... I will probably make a wax based variant also, to try out.
I used to moly coat bullets for reloading and after reading on the bottle of molybdenum disulfide the extreme heat and preesure it can withstand I mixed some with linseed oil and used that as a drift lube with great results. I was wiping it on though and this dipping technique looks much better. Gonna have to get some graphite and see how much that helps too.
Cool. I will try to mix in some powder in melted beeswax also to see how that works. The water based is good for dipping, but will sediment with time so you need to stirr it after a while.
For lead bullets. Try powder coat powder. In a old toaster oven. You can color for different loads. You will get looks at the range.
@@torbjornahman Never Seize is essentially the same, doesn't sediment or dry up and a lot cheaper than putting this together . It uses aluminum in place of the moly which makes it safer. The fumes coming off molybdenum are carcinogenic Why reinvent the wheel ?
@@maplebones Reinvent? I just presented something that has been used for a long time. A product like "Never Seize" isn't available everywhere.
Made some works like a charm. The best I ever used. Thank you
Great!
Wow, amazing how parts just slide apart with this!
That's a useful "magic trick"! I'll have to whip some of this up for myself. Without the liquid soap and the water, it's basically what I use to lubricate woodstove hinges and similar in situations where it's going to be exceptionally hot for long periods of time. Any conventional lubricant would simply cause issues as it burned.
The molybdenum should gradually build up on the sides of the drift making it really smooth
Learning something new every day. Thank you for teaching me. Keep up the good work. 💪❤️👌
Nice! I'll have to try making this stuff. I've been using just some powdered graphite recently and it's actually worked surprisingly well; was going to mix it with some melted beeswax as I've heard that's a decent punch lube but this stuff looks pretty promising and will certainly stick to the punch a whole lot better.
That's an awesome concoction!
Condolences for your loss.
A fitting tribute, to an obviously talented Craftsman.......Kudos.
Man! Thanx a lot for this recipe!!! Have been fiddling around with store-bought graphitegrease but boy, does it smell nasty. This really is going to help me a lot. Keep up the good work, always enjoy your video's!
WOW!! Thanks for the information. Life will get definately easier with this punch lube.
May Uri Rest In Eternal Peace. ❤️❤️
Magnifique idée, super vidéo comme d'habitude.
Bravo pour tout votre travail!
Salutations de Suisse!
Fantastiska videos. Genom dig har jag lärt mig massvis om smide och jag känner att jag är på god väg att bli nybörjare smed och få leva ut barndomsdrömmen till slut.
Fantastic videos. Through you, i've learned so mush and I'm well on my way to become a blacksmith novice. Childhood dream soon accomplished. =)
Trevligt! Tack
@torbjornahman Thank you for sharing this recipe. I made it up and have been using it in my rivet hole drifts. It works great, like nothing before.
Great!
Excellent! Thank you Torbjörn.
I wasn't sold on the 4k until I watched. I'f you've got the editing hardware and storage space I'd love to see more.
Torbjörn, always keep your airflow hood running, specially with lubricants' use. I know that can make your shop very cold but some of these fluids can be absorbed into the body very easily.
A Small lump of coal or powdered coal as been used in industrial for hundreds of years ,I use it my self for deep hole punching up-to 10” in carbon steel .for drop forge it was hard wood sawdust .👍
Sure but this is 10x more effective :) Much more expensive but it works really really well for some applications at least.
@@torbjornahman high there ,you are right it was a information to anybody to use, there are thing that have been lost to blacksmith and they need to be documented ,for example just one foil chewing gum wrapper in a coke forge will stop you fire welding .A clean fire and fuel is very important .Red lead powder mixed with paraffin is a barrier to molten cast iron ,you don’t need to use flux to get a good fire weld ,the scarf is the most important part .The more heats used to forge something degrades the parent metal.Coal as to be coked to be used in a open forge .black hot metal makes skin stick to it . Tempering is done after hardening .wrought iron starts its life as a bloom.Upsetting before you bend can give you a radius free bend .to calculate how long a revert needs to be to make a full cup is (the diameter half the diameter +1/8 of a inch.just a few things that I have used in the past 50 years of blacksmithing Kind regards JimRT.
Your work deserves 4k! ❤😊
That's some potent stuff! Mr. Hofi must have been one clever guy. Seeing it makes me wonder why every blacksmith doesn't use it all the time. It even _looks_ cool.
There are many variations of this and many blacksmiths use them all the time. Where did you get the impression that they didn't ? With enough experience, a blacksmith will rarely get a tool stuck . I know how frustrating it can be for beginners.
@@maplebones I'm not a smith, just a looky-loo here on UA-cam. I've seen a few people try out e.g. coke dust, with mixed results, but not a purpose-made lubricant. It could be that everyone does use stuff like this, but they don't show it on camera, so I wouldn't know.
@@crystalsoulslayer I understand. Blacksmiths probably don't think to mention it because it's not a critical element. It's like training wheels on a bicycle. After a while they learn to avoid stuck tools by using the proper technique. It's one of those things that's hard to teach and comes with experience. Those having mixed results with coke dust will likely continue to have mixed results with other lubricants.
It's always a pleasure watching you work!
Beautiful video!
That certainly looks very convincing. Thanks for sharing this.
Rest In Peace Hofi
Thank you!
That's incredibly effective! Almost magical!
such a beautiful video. and its literally blacksmithing... crazy
I liked the plop soundeffect.
Greetings from Germany;
Marcus
4K looks good to me! Thanks.
Very nice and very helpful and definitely information video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Forge lit. Keep Making. God Bless.
Thank you!
@@torbjornahman your welcome
That lube is amazing! Thanks for sharing!
Great work. You did very professional.
Great Idea Torbjorn Thanks for a great video
Impressive! Thank you for showing us!
Wow! 4K & I can almost see the molecules mixing in the pot ;)
HOLY MOLEY! THAT'S GENIUS!!!
Video looked crisp!
Thats awesome. I had no idea there was such a thing, but it seems pretty handy!
I'm amazed you were able to mix those powders without sneezing. RIP Uri Hofi.
I wear a respirator, as always :)
Sorry for your loss.
I worked at a copper and molybdenum mine years ago. That molybdenum disulfide is what we were concentrating. You want to talk about a dirty job, that stuff milled down to a fine powder and made into a slurry or after it was dried. It was something else. Slick stuff though.
I can only imagine....
Really like punch lube from Big Blu ! It's a calcium water based spray with temperature die in it.. great stuff!
Wonder why soap instead of a traditional beeswax? Might give this a try 👍
Thank you for this, and all that you do. Some time back, you mentioned using pine tar as a finish coat to preserve against oxidization. What is the recipe for that, please?
That is just plain pine tar! Nothing else.
Absolutely have to make this stuff!
WOW can not wait to try it!!
Great video. Composition not all that surprising, as molybdenum disulfide has been used to coat artillery projectiles for more than a hundred years, but it's fascinating to see how the lube is made.
Hey dude! We don't like critics in this yt channel!
Also can use pure kerosene to infuse the graphite and MoS2, that works well in my lab.
Besides releasing more easily. does the lubrication make it any easier to drive the drift into the workpiece?
It does as the friction is reduced.
un believable!!! thanks for this post
Excellent! Will checking this out...
Amazing stuff ! thanks for sharing.
Jeg hadde aldri tenkt på å blande disse med såpe og vann. men det ser ut som det fungerer utmerket for å få pulveret til å henge fast!!
Jeg har laget en blanding av grafitt, voks og olje, men det brenner og er litt grisete. neste gang skal jeg prøve såpe og kanskje også dette molybdem pulveret blandet inn.. genialt!
"Plop" - now there's a good Swedish word :D Excellent video!
It's actually "plopp" in Swedish :) The sound when something drops in water or a cork releases from a bottle.
@@torbjornahman Yes, it is the same here in the UK - although it has an alternative meaning - like many things. :)
Thanks for the formula!
RIP Uri Hofi.
I remember my teacher showing us the Hofi Hammer technique.
Excellent information. Thank you!
Wonderful tip and a very impressive demon .
That is really good. Thank you.
Actually, I do have a question: the MoS2…. Are you not concerned with sulphur contamination in the alloy in thin forging? Embrittlement? Or does it stay in the scale?
I would be surprised if it had any affect at all on the material. It needs time to diffuse into the steel. Most will probably just fall off with the scale as you say.
@@torbjornahman seems reasonable. I’ve erred on the side of caution in casting with boron nitride. Mostly to minimize the oxide layer. But also to aide investment removal. A similar function. But, not inexpensive
Thanks for the awesome content and great info!
Очень нравятся ваши видео. Вы настоящий МАСТЕР! У вас очень много инструментов и у каждого своя задача - это ещё раз подтверждает ваше мастерство.Здоровья вам и успехов в творчестве!
Like your videos very much. You are a real MASTER! You have a lot of tools and each has its own task - this once again confirms your skill. Health to you and success in your work!
Videolarınızı çok beğeniyorum. Sen gerçek bir MASTER'sın! Çok sayıda aracınız var ve her birinin kendi görevi var - bu, becerinizi bir kez daha onaylıyor Size sağlık ve işinizde başarı!
WOW!! Now that's some great stuff there all right.
I wish I had the forge and time for this I want to learn so bad I've been watching for a long time .....one of these days I'll have a place I can begin the process of setting something small up to learn some basics
Good luck!
Thank you my friend
Love your work, and your videos!
Bella trovata questa, sei imprevedibile. Un forte abbraccio e buona serata 👍
Now forge us an adze. I'd really like to see what your approach would be to making such a tool.
Wow! That's impressive
Very interesting video, where do you buy your chemicals from to make this paste/slip liquid?
Try ebay!
Great Video Thanks!!👍👍