nice video, very nicely explained, but the only thing you forgot was to mention to pump the brakes before you drive off, since theres slack in the piston now. might be a scary moment for those who dont know.
I just wanted to thank you for this great video. This is the 2nd time I've reviewed your video prior to changing my brakes. The first time was two years ago. I do have to agree with Aaron Warner of two years ago, best darn brake video out there! Keep on doing what you do.
I like how you never opened bleed valve when you pushed pistons back I have done this for years and you are the first guy who does the same as I broke a rusty bleed valve off years ago.Just going to do my daughters fiesta the same job thanks for the demo.👍
That's very interesting as I saw another video where they did this and I have never heard of anyone doing that. I think it just makes I easier to push the pads back but it isn't necessary. If you see this comment can you let me know if you used a floor jack or a hoist. Thanks in advance.
8:58 *What's happening here? Is there a pin you're pushing in? I can't really tell. How much tightening do you need and how do you tell when to stop? What are we looking for here?*
Good video, I don't know about the regular Fiesta but with the ST version you need to make sure to lube up the slider pins, especially for the rears. I think I could tell one of the slider pins wasn't moving as easy as the other when he pressed on them in the video.
Thanks, bro. Need to change my mom's in a bit and didn't know the wrench sizes. Thanks for saying you needed a 12mm and 15mm. Super helpful! :) (also, happy to see you using a jack and jack stand...ALWAYS best to be redundant in safety!)
Great angle and great lighting. I was very skeptical at first with the lighting, wondering why the light was facing you from behind the wheel. Then the camera angle changed with the lighting against the bolt you were removing. Great video.
Very good video, especially because it's in HD. Dun breaks before but never did it on a Ford Fiesta, on my girlfriend's car. Especially because so many applications are so different from one another just wanted a good Refresher on how it's done on this particular model. I really appreciate it and thank you for this video you saved the day! :)
Thanks Ry. I've done many brakes, but before I ran out to the garage and did the wifes Fiesta, I figured I'd take a peek at this setup first. Man, talk about easy. I see you used the Raybestos setup also. Curious how yours are working vs. OE now after some miles.
I have to say they are great. We have not had any transfer of material or any noise at all. To be fair though we probably put 10 miles a week on that car. I have 4 vehicles now and that one barely gets used.
when i went to take off the the 10 mm bolt of the and it was so seized the head stripped do you happen to know the pitch of the thread? the bolt requiring the 15mm wrench is 25 mm long but i dont know the thread pitch
I really thought you wouldn't of said about cleaning it, I know that they are actually sprayed on purpose to stop any moisture and corrosion while sat wherever they are stored. Good clear post pal 👍
Why do you replace new shims with old shims @5.53 mins just don't get the logic there if anyone can answer this for me please Love the video though and your presentation
You disc should have a screw in it as well to stop it moveing when driving and turning thats why you got a hole on the disc and same on the thing behind the disc
Slide pens should be removed and lubed. Ford has used some lubrication in the past that turns to mud and might be responsible for some of you problems. It just does not last long. Additionally, the hardware/brake pad brackets/clips should be replaced with every brake job. They too can be problematic. However, many pad makers do not include the hardware and it must be ordered separately.
Why did you not mention anything about bleeding the brake lines until the very end of the video? Why do you even need to bleed the brake line? Can't you just loosen the reservoir cap and let the fluid get pushed back up when you compress the piston?
Nice video. Only thing I would mention is that while you are pointing out the jack points, you might want to say something about jack stands (even though they're shown in the video). Especially since you then go and stick your head in the wheel well to get that caliper bracket bolt!
Take a look around 4:48 when I hold the caliper. The slide pins in this car are actually booted and self contained. The bolt you put in just holds it in place. The slide pins do not appear to be serviceable.
How could anyone dislike this video? Guess it shows you always some ungrateful people out there. The camera angles were excellent. The only thing i might do differently is not use any 12-pt sockets or wrenches on bolt heads, especially under the car. I live in rust belt and 6-pt is just extra insurance to keep from rounding off stubborn bolts and nuts. I was glad to learn about the pulsating rotor issue, like you I decided its just better to replace the rotors rather than resurface.
nice video, very nicely explained, but the only thing you forgot was to mention to pump the brakes before you drive off, since theres slack in the piston now. might be a scary moment for those who dont know.
Just did my own replacement based off your video and it went great. Almost easier than changing oil. Thanks a lot man.
I changed the rotor and brake pad in my 2016 Fiesta ST successfully following your tutorial. Great explanation and thanks for the walk through!
+Andy Lee I'm so glad that it helped you, thanks for watching!
12mm for the caliper and 15mm for the bracket...fyi....nice vid!
Best. Brake. Video. Ever. THANKS!
I just wanted to thank you for this great video. This is the 2nd time I've reviewed your video prior to changing my brakes. The first time was two years ago. I do have to agree with Aaron Warner of two years ago, best darn brake video out there! Keep on doing what you do.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching and I am really glad it helps. :D
Very good video. Thanks for posting. I'll be doing this myself this weekend. I'll have my computer handy though to watch parts of this video again.
Ry, you're a gem! Thank you for your videos! I have been ripped off sooo much. But, now I can go to a shop with education!
I like how you never opened bleed valve when you pushed pistons back I have done this for years and you are the first guy who does the same as I broke a rusty bleed valve off years ago.Just going to do my daughters fiesta the same job thanks for the demo.👍
That's very interesting as I saw another video where they did this and I have never heard of anyone doing that. I think it just makes I easier to push the pads back but it isn't necessary. If you see this comment can you let me know if you used a floor jack or a hoist. Thanks in advance.
This was really good teaching dude. Thank you!
You're welcome!! Thank YOU
8:58 *What's happening here? Is there a pin you're pushing in? I can't really tell. How much tightening do you need and how do you tell when to stop? What are we looking for here?*
Good video, I don't know about the regular Fiesta but with the ST version you need to make sure to lube up the slider pins, especially for the rears. I think I could tell one of the slider pins wasn't moving as easy as the other when he pressed on them in the video.
Thank you so much, I have just changed my break discs and pads. Very good tutorial and easy to follow. Thanks once again!
Thanks, bro. Need to change my mom's in a bit and didn't know the wrench sizes. Thanks for saying you needed a 12mm and 15mm. Super helpful! :) (also, happy to see you using a jack and jack stand...ALWAYS best to be redundant in safety!)
No problem dude! Glad it helps. Agreed, even with a light car like this you should use stands.
Great angle and great lighting. I was very skeptical at first with the lighting, wondering why the light was facing you from behind the wheel. Then the camera angle changed with the lighting against the bolt you were removing. Great video.
Thanks for the video Ry. I’m own a 2011 Fiesta. I am going to give this a go starting tonight.
Yo man you executed this video explained every thing really good didn’t give too much information that didn’t needed nice job 👍🏾
+Joel Santillan thanks man!
Very good video, especially because it's in HD. Dun breaks before but never did it on a Ford Fiesta, on my girlfriend's car. Especially because so many applications are so different from one another just wanted a good Refresher on how it's done on this particular model. I really appreciate it and thank you for this video you saved the day! :)
Awesome! I glad you like it. Yea, its crazy how all brakes do the same thing but each car has it configured a different way.
What’s the reason for changing the brake pads backing plates from your new pads to the originals factory ones?
It's just a personal preference. The new shims would work just fine.
Do you happen to have a torque for the caliper mounting bracket?
Great video!! Used it to do my first brake job on my daughter's car. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Pretty straight forward video tutorial how most brake jobs are done, saves people a lot of money, $80 vs $500 in a shop.
👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for this. Just replaced them and they work like a dream.
Really good video👍!! I would like to know if I need the same tools I mean 12 mm and 15mm wrench to replace rear pads I have a ford fiesta 2012
Why did you exchange the shims on brake pads?
luktish yes I would like to know that as well
Thanks Ry. I've done many brakes, but before I ran out to the garage and did the wifes Fiesta, I figured I'd take a peek at this setup first. Man, talk about easy. I see you used the Raybestos setup also. Curious how yours are working vs. OE now after some miles.
I have to say they are great. We have not had any transfer of material or any noise at all. To be fair though we probably put 10 miles a week on that car. I have 4 vehicles now and that one barely gets used.
Ah, well I only drive 25 a day, so far no issues at all. Took a week to set in well, but great now.
Glad to hear!
when i went to take off the the 10 mm bolt of the and it was so seized the head stripped do you happen to know the pitch of the thread?
the bolt requiring the 15mm wrench is 25 mm long but i dont know the thread pitch
Awesome video, very helpful and straight to the point. Thanks.
+Jim Goodman 👍
Nice explanation well done that's a great help 👍
Glad you liked it!
@@Rythecarguy job done Ry. Mot sorted 👍
Hi where can you buy these fuses from ?
What fuse?
I have a 2015 fiesta - would this video still apply?
Cynthia Hills yes baby
Just changed mine and this video helped so much
is it same like the back brakes ?
I really thought you wouldn't of said about cleaning it, I know that they are actually sprayed on purpose to stop any moisture and corrosion while sat wherever they are stored. Good clear post pal 👍
Could you have put the new pads on with the shims they came with?
+Andrew Nicholson for sure. If they are not damaged and hold on tight then you are good to go.
What were the torque specs?
Your experience shows. Thanks for the video
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
Could you do a rear drum break job video?
+Erik DAYTON JR sorry but I got rid of that car.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, it was a great help!
To do this properly, you need to use a torque wrench and tighten to the spec - typically, 45 lbs-ft for the bolts securing the bracket to the knuckle.
What are all the torque specs? Good video bro but I’m about to do this and it would be greatly appreciated for the torque specs to be mentioned.
Nice to learn, I have a car like it same color, it feels funny driving a semi and small car
:D
Thanks for you're video, I appreciate it!, one other procedure I do is in my brakes is brake grease. The slide pins also. Thanks again👍
do you have any torque specs for the bolts on the mount and caliper?
20 lbs
@@Nocturnal_Introvert thank you
@Ruijie Zhou You're welcome
What brand brakes and rotors? Thx.
I'm sorry but I do not remember.
Good clear video and very helpful..thanks for the upload.
Why do you replace new shims with old shims @5.53 mins just don't get the logic there if anyone can answer this for me please
Love the video though and your presentation
Abit of copper grease on the bolts going back in to stop them seizing aswel as torque wrench the bolts back up 👍
👍🏻
Perfect guide. Really detailed, so everyone can understand :)
Going to do this today. Thank you for the video!!
Great video. Much appreciated. Very well explained.
Excellent instruction. A++
You disc should have a screw in it as well to stop it moveing when driving and turning thats why you got a hole on the disc and same on the thing behind the disc
Slide pens should be removed and lubed. Ford has used some lubrication in the past that turns to mud and might be responsible for some of you problems. It just does not last long. Additionally, the hardware/brake pad brackets/clips should be replaced with every brake job. They too can be problematic. However, many pad makers do not include the hardware and it must be ordered separately.
Does anyone know if this applies to the Ford Fiesta St 2016?
+Ryan Lohr sorry but I'm not sure
lol changing brakes is basically the same for all cars noob
This is a great vid dude thanks,
NP
Great video ...very well explained too. thanks
Why would you not use a socket on the calliper bracket bolts? No need for a spanner and a mallet!
Because I'm a rebel
Why did you not mention anything about bleeding the brake lines until the very end of the video? Why do you even need to bleed the brake line? Can't you just loosen the reservoir cap and let the fluid get pushed back up when you compress the piston?
THANK YOU GREAT VIDEO.
Nice video. Only thing I would mention is that while you are pointing out the jack points, you might want to say something about jack stands (even though they're shown in the video). Especially since you then go and stick your head in the wheel well to get that caliper bracket bolt!
thanks .. very informative
Use a torque wrench to tighten bolts!
Naaaa
Great video thanks mate!
+Sliviz anytime bud!
no lube on sliders and pins?
Take a look around 4:48 when I hold the caliper. The slide pins in this car are actually booted and self contained. The bolt you put in just holds it in place. The slide pins do not appear to be serviceable.
Perfect! Thanks
Damn, you can be my mechanic any day.
+ProJanitor 😀
Sadly I just saw this today. I need both replaced and ford charged me almost $400 😕
Yikes, sorry to hear.
I thought i was passing out when the wind started to blow into the mic...... I had my sub eq all the way up
Glad you made it dude.
If you yank it off, you might break something 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 sorry, I’m okay now.
😂
HOT VID
How could anyone dislike this video? Guess it shows you always some ungrateful people out there. The camera angles were excellent. The only thing i might do differently is not use any 12-pt sockets or wrenches on bolt heads, especially under the car. I live in rust belt and 6-pt is just extra insurance to keep from rounding off stubborn bolts and nuts. I was glad to learn about the pulsating rotor issue, like you I decided its just better to replace the rotors rather than resurface.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaand thank you again :)
+Alessandro Giaccaglia 😀
I appreciate this video. Also you are cute
Hey, thanks! 🥰
Slainte
🍻
@@Rythecarguycheers from Ireland mate.
one tip, if doing the front brakes you can turn to the side your working on to get better clearance.
👍🏻
Great video, thanks!