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@@MrGreenAKAguci00 I’m a true believer in using vinegar. I think it does better that any commercial product. Maybe Adam can do a side by side comparison.
The non-uniformity of the Evaporust action that occured on Norm's blaster barrel happened because you let the part become partially non-submerged. Evaporust is mostly water, so it will evaporate and decrease in volume. The water/air interface of the evaporust is intensely reactive, and will etch a strong line into steel parts. I learned this the hard way, when I etched a hard hard line into a set of 1895 Starrett Jenny calipers by letting them sit half submerged in a ziplock bag. If you care for the finish to remain uniform, you MUST absolutely ensure that the part stays submerged during the entire process. Keeping the part in the Evaporust for 3 days is fine, but not if you let it evaporate to the point where the part breaches the surface.
Ohhh... "The water/air interface of the evaporust is intensely reactive" -- what would happen if you had air bubbling through it? Would an aerated mix work faster?
Been there, didn't scar anything as cool! Tip, put the part in a ziplock bag and drive the air out. Potential tip, because I think it would help on heavy rust, but have not tried- EvapoRust in an ultrasonic bath, or the ziplock in a water bath.
Evaporust is awesome. While my dad was in the hospital, a water leak filled the drawers of his tool chest. All of his nice socket sets were fully submerged for weeks. As soon as i discovered it, i bought a big jug of evaporust and let them sit for a few days. They all came out completely rust free and good as new. He has since passed away and I inherited his tools. I'm reminded of good memories working in the shop with my dad every time I use those sockets.
I have been using Evaporust quite a bit and it’s a great product. Yesterday when I was using it, I inadvertently placed my plastic container over a neodymium magnet - the liquid was as clear as new after 24 hours as all the peeled-off metal had been picked up my the magnet. Try it…
Similar effect to the magnetic ring in the bottom of a transmission oil reservoir. Captures any worn metal bits reducing wear and tear. I’ll definitely try it!
I love comments that sound scientifically true. It always attracts nods from the half wits. The truth is that rust is not magnetic and no magnets in the world will pick up rust.
I discovered this stuff about a year ago and it has become my go-to whenever I have anything that needs to be made rust-free. I've even had good luck soaking paper towels in it and then wraping the towel around rusty objects and waiting several hours. In most cases you don't need to wait overnight, just a couple of hours will remove all but the thickest, most stubborn rust! Obviously it won't fill in pits, but it will remove the rust that caused them!
TOOL TIP BONUS: WHEN SAVING THE LIQUID, PUT THE DIRTY STUFF IN A CLEAR, SEALED CONTAINER AND SET ASIDE FOR A FEW DAYS TO LET THE MUCK SETTLE TO THE BOTTOM BEFORE POURING IT BACK IN THE ORIGINAL CONTAINER. WORKS GREAT WITH PAINT THINNER TOO!
@@JamezGrimm you don't find that the filtered Evaporust still degrades the remaining new stuff in the original bottle? I read on the website that partial quantities of Evaporust "MUST NOT be returned to the bottle once used. Doing so will degrade the unused product and eventually ruin it completely."
I've used white vinegar for years on everything you can imagine and find it worked better than anything else. Sometimes it may take a few days but it's always returned the metal back to being rust free. Try something like that spring in some vinegar and see what ya think. Miss you guys, thank God for reruns lol!
@@guerrilla118 I just use straight white vinegar. Mostly on old tools so with a shallow tray I only use a gallon. If it's a big item try to find a container roughly the same size. Sometimes it may just take a day or so but heavily rusted things may need a week or better. It'll go from clear to looking like a brownie mix. Salt can be used with vinegar to speed it up too. I wire brush afterwards and put the tools in a baking soda and water mix to neutralize the acid. From there I rinse in hot water (so it will dry quicker,) sand if necessary, and paint. If you don't want to paint then I've had good luck using air filter spray oil to keep things from getting rusty.
@Governor I appreciate that, Im going to try it out. For the container I have a heavy contractor trash bag I will use that should hold it and an old trash can incase it leaks, and will be able to use for awkward shaped tools as well and should be able to reuse that same bag everytime. Then just reuse that same vinegar until its not effective anymore. I am going to use CLP to polish it up, I use as my hunting rifle lubricant/cleaner. CLP stands for cleaner, lubricant, preservative so that should work for my tools as well. Im restoring my old well digger so hopefully it gets the inside too
@@guerrilla118 sounds good except you'll probably wind up just using a new bag every time and I don't imagine you'd wanna reuse the vinegar. Depending on how rusty the part is, and how long you soak it, the vinegar will be pretty funky. I've soaked some very old tools with no visible markings, like some 100+yr old ax heads, and the top layer of the vinegar looked like an overcooked pizza with big rusty-yellow bubbles. Afterwards though I could see the makers stamp.
I've had terrific luck with rust removal using electrolysis. A $5 garage sale 3 amp manual battery charger, a piece or two of steel plate, and $4 worth of Washing Soda is all that's needed and it is super effective. Also quite satisfying to watch the process occur. I've come to realize that metal isn't really rusty. Rather, the rust is growing on the metal, and eating away at it. And with minor electrical persuasion, you can literally get that rust to jump off of your part and onto that steel plate. It's a car restorer's dream. I think the Evapo-Rust might be a perfect compliment to this process, for smaller parts like nuts and bolts.
Adam, thank you for featuring this product. I just picked some up yesterday and put a part that I made over 25 years ago in it. Came up beautifully, a little high grit sanding and you'd think it was brand new. Holy cr*p mate, this stuff is incredible!
Adam, from the bottom of my heart, thank you for this tool tip. This stuff is ridiculous. I bought a small bottle to test with and oh my god. I used it on miscellaneous tools and it worked great, but then I tried it on a pair of linesman's pliers that my daughter had dug up in the back yard that looked like it had been in the ground since the early 70's when the house was built. Totally covered in rust, frozen solid, surely a lost cause...it took a few nights in the Evapo-Rust, but other than some pitting in the handles, the thing works like new. Now I'm running around looking for rusty things. I know I sound like a commercial, but so what? It works.
@@Shad0wBoxxer how much rust do you need to remove? If it’s substantial then you will probably have to re-blue the firearm. If it’s a light rust try some Flitz polish. Just apply with a clean non abrasive cloth, leave for 15 minutes, and polish off. It may even improve any bluing that you have remaining on the gun.
@@Shad0wBoxxer watch some c&r anvil episodes on UA-cam, pro gunsmith, shows you lots of good stuff, including exactly how to deal with every stage of rust
As a Musclecar restorer, I approve this message! Great stuff! Follow it up with some RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) and those parts will never rust again!
I used to work at a hardware store and about 2007 I had found this stuff. I wanted to make a good demonstration piece for the store so they would stock it. I used an old iron pipe flange which had been outside for several years and was pretty rusty. I left it suspended in the evaporust about halfway on the diameter and brought the piece in to show my coworkers, They were amazed at the difference and the plumbing dept. woman even noted that the crayon that she used to mark the price on the flange had been exposed again, without any harm to that writing. I wasn't even aware that I had bought the flange there in the first place but she recognized her writing! it has been stocked in the store ever since. love this stuff
I've been using white vinegar for years to remove rust with excellent results. The price is right too. Use extra strength when you can find it. Works best when warm.
It's cool stuff! As far as I recall it's a chelating agent. The MSDS wasn't much help, but I looked into it further and can't remember a single thing from what I found except that it was really interesting!
If your interested a channel called "ElementalMaker" just had a video about Evapo-Rust and it's components about 3 weeks ago. The tl;dr version if I remember correctly was that most signs post to EDTA as the main active ingdient.
From what I read about EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) on Wikipedia ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylenediaminetetraacetic_acid ) I would call it "environmentally safer" rather than "safe". It's unclear how to correctly dispose of it as I'm reluctant to believe that dumping it down the drain is okay.
I was a real skeptic about this, but I'm convinced. I cleaned up a bunch of tools that had been left in the rain and it worked like advertised. They still required some polishing, but all of the rust was gone. Thanks!
I've been using this for years, I got it through Lee Valley and it's a great product. I've suspended items in solution so that the chemical can react with the maximum surface area. Your rusted spring might be better if you had a way to either extend it during immersion or place it in a glass beaker with solution, and then inside an ultrasonic cleaner. I would have liked it if you mentioned that the solution is finally expended when it becomes 'black'. It helps to know that.
Thank you Ed, I just asked that question to Adam! so, have you used this product with an ultrasonic cleaner? it´s "safe" for the cleaner? does the product has the same "life" using the cleaner or expends sooner?
Sorry, I didn't realise that someone responded to my post. The quick answer is, 'No, I've never used this product in an ultrasonic cleaner. I tend to not experiment with products as a precaution against voiding the warranty or otherwise causing damage in the process. I do warm the product up in a hot water bath, to help it along though.
Over the past few years I've been using vinegar for rust removal and have been happy with it. Recently I've used Evapo-Rust. What I've discovered is that if you had taken the heavily rusted spring out of the Evapo-Rust after a few hours and worked on it with a wire brush for a few minutes to loosen the heavy rusted areas and returned it to the Evapo-Rust, your results would have been even better and faster.
We used EvapoRust extensively during my son's Eagle project, which was restoring old, rusty bikes to donate to needy kids. Any and all small rusty parts went into this stuff, including chains. We were able to save a lot of the chains this way. It's GREAT!
I've been using the same gallon for around half a year now and it's all black liquid at this point but still works great. definitely see why everyone loves it, glad it has adams stamp of approval as well!
Hi Adam, Indeed a great product! I'm a certified jeweler and I made a ultrasonic machine out of pvc pipe for longer pieces and used this product and WAO, it worked beautifully, and also the ultrasonic machine helped along big time! Adam thanks for sharing this video! 🙂👍
Hey Adam I’ve been using this evaporust since 2020 doing restoration work on a 1974 Porsche 911 and I’ve used it on numerous parts and it really works great go and let them soak and sometimes some of them I scrub with a steel brush and then put back in the evapo rust solution and it works great to get rid of the rust before painting. It works great for me that I found.
Some say, that he drinks a gallon of evaporust each morning, and has an unhealthy addiction to snorting sandblasting grit. All we know is, he's called Hand Tool Rescue..
I have watched every episode of "Hand Tool Rescue". His videos are relaxing and he just may be the best at what he does. I love that he has an entire plastic barrel of Evap -O- Rust and just lowers a basket of parts into the drum. LOL!
I vouch for this. I purchased this onsale years ago and it was the best rust remover I ever had. I forgot the name of it and couldnt find it until now, thanks to the video.
I came across this video by accident, but since I like Savage and I've been removing rust from 70+ year old Griswold cast iron, so I wanted to see what you had to say. Low and behold, it's the Evaporust that I've been using. Yes, it is completely amazing and has proven safe to easily get off stubborn rust from the cast iron, wash with dish soap really well and begin seasoning.
"When you work with steel, you have to deal with rust." I am a Corrosion Engineer, and the number of people I encounter who don't grasp this idea saddens me. Also, for anyone who happens to read through here - most metals and/or their alloys corrode in some environment or another. Not using steel isn't necessarily a valid corrosion management strategy for a given service application.
Thank you for this recommendation, I have a lot of old tools from my dad and grandpa that were in desperate need of rust removal. It worked beautifully.
For some items, the Evaporust is great, for some other items such as that spring that is heavily rusted, I prefer to use electrolysis. Evaporust is quite expensive, but it lasts quite a long time. Electrolysis is quite cheap, but the setup and cleanup takes time.(Doesn't everyone have a 12volt battery charger and some washing soda?)
Just vinegar alone works wonders. I had some rusty tools from a tool box in my shed and I thought there was no way in hell I could ever clean that rust off but then someone tipped me off with the vinegar trick and it worked WAY better than I expected! Vinegar is like natures miracle cleaner.
Hi Adam, I just read your book. I thought it was the BEST book I have ever read. It really inspired me and helped me think about future projects, Thanks for the best content
It's funny that as soon as you said restoration videos + Evaporust I knew exactly the channel you were talking about. And my guess is Hand Tool Rescue which has a giant bucket of Evaporust.
Evapo-Rust is amazing! I've tried out so many different rust removers (and preventers) since moving to coastal Texas, where the unrelenting humidity has sometimes even started to rust brand-new tools prior to even opening the packaging, and there's nothing I've liked better than Evapo-Rust…it outperforms even those products that burn any unprotected eyes and lungs that dared to venture too close to an open container of them, and yet it's not irritating to handle or be around at all. If you haven't tried yet, I recommend filling up an ultrasonic parts washer with undiluted Evapo-Rust at a warm, but not too hot (like some others have mentioned, it has a high water content and is prone to evaporation), depending on the heat-sensitivity of the material that you're restoring, I've found that ≈35-50ºC tends to be a good temperature. In my experience, when soaking in an ultrasonic washer, you'll remove the same amount of rust in about 30 minutes to 2 hours as you'd remove in a traditional soak in 24-48 hours, while still leaving the finish unharmed (save for any etching from the rust itself, of course). It takes care of most of the post-soak wiping/brushing for you, too. Within moments of turning the ultrasonic machine on, visible clouds of rust start to rise off the part's surface, which is a satisfying bonus to watch, haha. Also, if you are okay (or would prefer) with a little bit of surface refinishing, I've found that the Roloc-style bristle discs, along with their rotary tool equivalent for tight areas, are an absolutely incredible for rust removal (as well as polishing, heavy cleaning, and deburring), with minimal removal of the base material, especially on irregular or intricate surfaces that are normally time-consuming to get good coverage of (like the spring in this video). They seem to be more durable that a typical wire brush, while leaving fewer marks on the surface you're restoring. The combination of Evapo-Rust and bristle discs has allowed me to restore and reuse parts that I would never have imagined were worth attempting to salvage before discovering these products.
ER is great, however if you want decent quantities its rather pricey at $30/g. I like Rust911. It comes in a concentrate and you just mix with water Their smallest product is 16 oz which makes 2g for $35.
I’ve been using this for a motorbike restoration and I think this is the best out of a bunch of different products I’ve tried over the project. A bit pricey (here in the UK) but worth every penny!
I rescued two very hard to find panels for my 1968 double cab that separate the gas tank to the rear cab with this stuff. I put the panels in vacuum bags and poured the evaporust in. They came out perfect. I even got back the original paint and just ended up sealing them with a clear coat. Love this stuff too.
My specific restoration-video proclivities lie mostly with "Odd Tinkering". He mostly fixes up old, hopelessly aged and filthified video game things, but the videos are beautiful, nearly silent, and calming in a way that feels like I am being actively drawn into a meditative state of mind. Highly, highly recommend Odd Tinkering.
I'm an "Odd Tinkering" fan myself, I've always loved his on camera buddy the "Ducktor" for when he's cleaning parts, but I also I like "TySy Restoration," due to him usually leaving his mark (sticker) somewhere underneath or embedded on something he's refurbished, and also I like "My Mechanics," for his "I make new one" when it comes to creating his own bolts, nuts and screws to replace outdated ones.
Tried Evapo-rust yesterday to see how well it cleaned old horse shoes for a project, prior to watching this video. Amazed by the results after just a 16hour soak
Thanks for the heads up! I wish they sold in a smaller container (eg. 250ml), smallest is 1 litre which is more than I'd use in a lifetime (restoring battery contacts on 80s 90s toys).
At work I noticed the inside wall of our dough mixer's stainless steel bowl had a thin half inch thick oil slick looking discoloration running along the circumference. Over time, the steel had oxidized because of friction between the bowl and a nearby shelf it was rubbing against as it spun.
I've had the 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust for a couple of years now... It was expensive but has been worth the money as I just toss stuff into the included basket and let it sit overnight. Way easier than messing with bags, and virtually none of the product is wasted. Highly recommended if you deal with rusty items regularly.
I have used this on a lot of rusty body panels, etc for car restoration. Amigos. This works incredibly well, has saved me a ton of time on having to prep/restore parts, panels & tools. I have saved money by using this as well, because I didn't have to trash items that might've been too much trouble to clean up. Ask for cleanup and Disposal this stuff is pretty easy to deal with as well.
Seriously, this stuff for rust removal and higher-concentration hydrogen peroxide + UV for de-yellowing plastics are 2 of my absolute favorite things from the realm of restoration projects. 😁
@@caseytbss I haven't done it yet myself, but one of my favorite channels: *OddTinkering* does a lot of tech and gadget restoration where I learned about it from. As far as I know you can get 12% off Amazon, and think you'd have to special order from a supplier for anything higher.
For hydrogen peroxide de-yellowing UV light can be substituted by elevated temperature of the liquid. Hydrogen peroxide makes oxygen, which needs energy to break up the organic compounds that turn plastics yellow. Sodium percarbonate can be used as a reasonably cheap source of hydrogen peroxide to make a bath of it. Paste and UV light is better / easier for large parts.
Oh wow, that's pretty great for just sitting there! I use this stuff called Bar Keepers Friend, which does an awesome job and isn't too rough on your hands, but it is an abrasive, so it can mess with the finish. 100% going to grab a bottle of this stuff!
It works well. Very expensive though! If you need to do a lot of rust removal there are far cheaper options. They may take a bit longer however. Or be a little smellier(molasses and apple cider vinegar). :D
Well, I've not tried evaporust, but I get what looks like identical outcomes with vinegar, which is super cheap and eco, re-usable, safe, etc... Perhaps the chemical process is not the same, but the rust is eaten before the metal suffers and I'm happy with it.
one thing I was curious about was if electrolysis helped this, like it does with vinegar. I'll have to check that video out. And yeah.. almost nobody is leaving these parts in vinegar for a week in order to get metal damage. I saw amazon has a gallon of this stuff for about $16 and some moderately high strength vinegars are about the same price point so it's not a bad option.
I tried it. yes it is a great product. It is a water based chemical. Read the directions on the container and call their tech support if you have questions. Something to remember, I was given a "heads up" warning that "Flash Rust" could occur with freshly treated steel. I treated the Jeep gas tank skid plate for 4 hours, the solution was rinsed off the tank with water and immediately dried. In my process of drying the tank I made sure all moisture was driven off the steel surface (like hot sunny day) and then applied a good steel primer (Rust-Oleum.) after thorough drying. I look forward to using it again on some of my metal Garden ornaments.
I've found that vinegar works really well! You do have to agitate the parts sitting in the vinegar and then coat them with some petroleum based product afterwards but works amazing!!!
With parts as rusty as that spring, you have to combine a mechanical action (as in knocking off the outer layers of rust), with the EVAPO-RUST, so that the Evapo-rust can penetrate. You will have much more complete removal if you do both.
For any heavy rust, it's wise to employ the use of a wire wheel before using a product like Evaporust or going to Electrolysis. Removing any rust that will come off via the wheel will definitely speed up total rust removal. Even using a wire brush with some elbow grease is better than nothing. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
I wonder how using evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner would aid in heavy rust removal, such as the spring in this video. This could be an interesting follow up video idea.
While reusable, it's not *infinitely* reusable, longevity depends on how much rust you are removing. I would also pour mine through a coffee filter when putting back in the bottle to filter out the sludge that accumulates near the bottom. For larger items I still prefer to do the electrolysis method as it is much cheaper than buying gallons of Evaporust. But for smaller items, evaporust is hard to beat.
Electrolysis is the go-to I use on large parts. Last lawn tractor I restored required dunking the mower deck. No way I was going to fill a 50 gallon plastic drum with evapo-rust.
Rust911 is likely the same product at $3.75/gallon. This is sold at about $60 for one gallon that makes 16 gallons. You are quite welcome LOL. . Love the stuff.
i friggen love this guy!!! He was THE soul of the show. He and imaharra and Kari made the show sooo awesome! I still dont know why he was paired as he was with the world's.......well, lets just say the man was a TV show martyr for a long time, lets admit it. You all KNOW what im talking about!!! His enthusiasm and love of the craft is undeniable!!Best personality this side of Tom Hanks!!
Oh, You mean the guy who moved to Greece to avoid extradition here in the states? Something about activity on a certain island? Yeah, great personality.........He had me fooled as well.
@@Kyudos definitely a close second! Honestly I watch them all for different reasons. Mechanics machine work, some others for gratuitous use of the sand blaster. It's great when they collaborate. I even branched off into antique painting restoration for a little while lol
I've been using this extensively for several years now on vintage mopeds and scooters. My best advice is to pre-clean your parts beforehand. I generally use it to salvage rusted out gas tanks, and a pre-clean with soapy water works wonders. Evaporust is not a degreaser or cleaner, but on a surface with only rust, it will work amazingly well. Agitation during soaking helps, too. I've managed to rescue 40 year old gas tanks and parts that were covered I'm flaky rust chunks. Usually I let them soak a few days and they come out as clean metal.
I've been using this stuff for about 6 years. Really good. Some parts I thought would never come apart eventually did after soaking for a few weeks. It's also really good for getting at rust you can't physically get to like rust down in holes. It's called "rust chelation" if you want to learn more about this chemical process.
I am impressed. Remember the rust on that old spring went deep, so yes it not going to come totally clean. I have some of that stuff and need to use it on some old tools I have that have rust on them. That would be a good winter project.
Another option for rust removal I found is simple white vinegar from the grocery store in gallon jugs. I had a super rusty gas tank from a motorcycle and ended up putting 5 gallons of vinegar in it for 3 days it came out looking brand new!
Vinegar is an acid so it's not going to be safe for all surfaces (It'll eat paint for example). It does indeed work though, as does Citric Acid which you can buy in powder form and mix with water when ever you need a bit of mild acid for removal of ...stuff. A little goes a long way. My personal favorite is a product called "Metal Rescue". It probably uses the same process as Evaporust as it's also touted as environmentally safe but it doesn't leave the sticky film on everything (while that film can reduce flash rusting, it can be a pain to remove before painting). Metal rescue also doesn't smell as bad. I've used all of the above and all will work but each has its place.
Adam, your channel is the bees knees! I have just been bitten by the restoration bug. I have been binging on vintage tool restoration videos here on UA-cam. I have restored a junk screw driver and I made a brand-new wood handled ball peen, hammer look and feel like it should autta feel. I sanded the shiny shellac, or whatever it was, I used my blowtorch to bring out the grain, sanded it just a bit and applied boiled linseed oil. Then I removed the paint from the head and buffed the beegeebers out of it. I digress (as always). Rust removal! that seems to be the most common aspect of the restoration process, so that was the focus of my search and you and I have come to the same conclusion on this product. Anyhoo, I always feel compelled to comment on your great videos, but when I see 2,464 comments, I think, Adam will never see my comment. Ahh, what the hell, I give it a shot. Live long and prosper, my friend.
I have a 47 year old truck & I use EvapoRust all the time. Many times would I have old screws, bolts, brackets or just miscellaneous parts I'll just put them in a container and let'em soak; a few days, few weeks. Evapo-rust always works great
I have been using phosphoric acid for rust removal for years and and it works nearly instantly, although it has the consistency of water. It is the main ingredient in Naval Jelly rust remover and works much faster but doesn't stay put if applied to a part instead of soaking. It can be had at Home Depot usually. Caveat: don't use any rust remover on blued firearms unless you like them in the white.
Acetone is a wonderful rust remover, I've discovered. Also, those sheet rock sanding blocks work great for scrubbing off rust. CLR bathroom cleaner (not the scale remover kind we're all used to) also works well for some reason.
@@360.Tapestry hope it works out! I know chrome can be a bit of a different beast, since it's a coating over what's rusting, AFAIK. The things I said are mainly for steels of various sorts. I imagine rusty drum hardware is as annoying to drummer as getting rust on the strings is to bassists.
@@pete-ph5xc it worked fine. if nothing else, it got a lot of the scummy build up off. but i still had to take steel wool to the most affected areas. this is what you get when you buy neglected equipment to make an acoustic-to-electric conversion drum kit lol it's par for the course
@@360.Tapestry true. I've found that the green scrub pads work just as well on rust if they have some cleaner available, and don't scratch quite as bad as steel wool. If you need a shiny surface afterwards, the drywall sanding blocks come in handy for doing that, although you're not going to get a mirror polish... and if the rust has gotten any deeper than surface rust, it's always going to be discolored, at least in my experience. Still, sometimes it's worth it to sacrifice some looks to get something a bit cheaper. Can always take out as much as you can, hit it with rustoleum clear and call it shabby retro chic or what have you, lol. I suppose it's also worth mentioning that the evaporust he's got really is fantastic, as well.
I have a friend who is an artisan blacksmith and according to him, rust is something that you want as a blacksmith. If he had unlimited time on each project, he would let his creations rust on purpose, then mechanically remove excess rust and hit it with Phosphoric acid. He says that layer gives better protection than any regular thickness of zinc plating or alternatives, especially if you also hit it with paint.
I can imagine it's a similar thing to steel plate. It's far better to let the steel scale up (letting the mill scale actually bloom), clean it and then coat it than coat fresh steel. If you don't let it rust then you're either left with coating it and watching your coating fall off in a couple of years or blasting it to hell to get the pre-bloom scale off.
We (CMU Costume Studio) had a heavy metal chain mail cowl that was rusted. I was looking for a solution that required the least amount of work and smell to remove the rust. Came across your video on UA-cam about Evapo-Rust and how it work by just soaking the item. It was Biodegradable and reusable. Sounded like the product I was looking for. Purchased a quart of the liquid form. Soaked the Cowl for about 2 1/2 hours. It worked beautifully. A quick rinse, rub down on a towel and 15 minutes in the oven, it is a wearable item. Thanks for the video on the product.
First I want to say that I could watch a video Adam showing the proper use of using a shop broom and be totally enthralled. He is just so amazing to waych and listen to and I learn something with every video of his I watch. Regarding this rust removal video... I just watched Adam's video and a few videos where I people where getting similar or better results using vinegar. Has anybody else experimented with vinegar?
Hand Tool Rescue is one of my favorites. You didn't name names, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess he was a large part of your rabbit hole. If not, check it out.
Stuff works great. I used heated, in an ultrasonic cleaner. If extra crusty going in, may hit it with a brass brush in the sink basin. Amazing results on my old tool finds.
My goto for heavily rusted steel parts. Nuts, bolts screws, springs clips, washers etc. Is overnight in a rock polisher with course carbide grit, water and a squirt of joy dishwashing detergent. Works amazing.
I found this stuff a little over a year ago the same way, watching videos from people like Hand Tool Rescue with his giant magic cauldron of rust remover. I've used it on a couple of my own video projects since (also inspired by HTR and others). I love it! like you said, not a miracle fluid but a great tool! Wait till you fall down the rabbit hole he started about Japanning!
I first saw this years ago on american pickers. It does work very well but I have found that some older steel like old wrenches will turn black. It might be the difference in iron content in the metal or the plating. You can also drip soak hard to remove fasteners with it to aid in removal.
I feel stupid now, I didn't know this stuff exists. Been using "RUST OFF!" which means wearing two spacesuits and robot arms, evacuating the town around me, and diverting air traffic.
I used this on a rusty, dirty, and well neglected moped chain. Evapo Rust with some scrubbing made it look as good as it could. I also soaked all the rusted nuts and bolts. The moped was as clean as it could get.
I've always felt kinda weird liking tool restoration videos (I never miss a "Hand Tool Rescue" vid). I feel less weird, now. That, or Adam and I share a bit of cosmic weirdness.
+1 for vinegar. I use it a lot and I'd say this stuff looks like it works the same but a bit slower. The results after 72 hours look identical to about 12-24 hours in vinegar.
Try 1 part black treacle or molasses to 9 or 10 parts water. You get none of the carbon migration issues from leaving it in too long as the sugars dissolve the rust and hold them in suspension. They don't attack the steel like a relatively strong acid. It's the slowest form of rust removal (that spring would take a week+ but would come out spotless) but you can leave the part in their indefinitely as long as it's submerged and not overly diluted. I had a motorbike frame submerged in a paddling pool of the stuff for a few years come out spotless.
I'll have to give this a try, I have soaked parts in vinegar in the past to remove rust. Vinegar will eat rust very quickly but it will turn parts a dull grey after awhile, it also will eat off the finish on some parts. I have had old tools that rusted slowly over the course of years that I then soaked in vinegar only to have them rust in days afterwards. I have found thoroughly rinsing the parts with water, then thoroughly drying the parts and reapplying some sort of finish to work the best.
Love the stuff and been trying to NOT buy the 5 gal bucket. It's great that it's safe and reusable but when there's heavy rust or I need quick results, krud kutter must-for-rust (which feels some solution of phosphoric acid) is a clear winner. I've done weeks on a heavily rusted part with minimal success. Having both in the shop is the move.
Justin over at The Good of the Land (UA-cam channel) built a huge ultrasonic Evapo-rust tank from a parts washer and commercial transducers. It's amazing!
Not sure how i missed this when it came out. I use Evapo-Rust when restoring cast iron cookware. 2 gallons and a Walmart tote (with a lid) to dump it in and I have an easily movable, easy way to remove rust. I can't set up a E-tank where I'm at so this stuff in conjunction with a lye tank is a great alternative. It's super safe on the cast iron, washes off easily, can be used for quite some time, and is pretty darn safe. Definitely worth the cost.
I love this stuff, I have been using for years!! Sometimes that soak takes time... days, maybe a week in some very rusty cases. I make sure after the removal of the rust that I run the piece under clean water, dry it off well with a cloth and blow dry it, then quickly dip the item back in the EVAPO-RUST and dry it off... bang!! The next protective coating I use in the process on the item is called BOESHIELD T-9. Try that on bare metal, I think you will thank me :-) ... there is nothing like it to stop the forming of rust on an item. I use it on my cast iron tool beds (band saw, table saw, etc, it leaves no oily film) it is better than paste wax, WD40 or anything else I have tried, all my wood chisels get a very light coating on them as well. My main woodshop is in a non-climate controlled shed, so moisture can be an issue in our crazy Canadian winters... Thanks Adam, glad to see you found this amazing product!
Evapo-Rust Rust Remover: amzn.to/3w8uCDW
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Michaelcthulhu uses vinegar and has very good results.
is this cleaner ok to use in an ultrasonic cleaner? because i think that would help a lot !
@@MrGreenAKAguci00 I’m a true believer in using vinegar. I think it does better that any commercial product. Maybe Adam can do a side by side comparison.
I used this on the inside of my motorcycle tank to save me 300 bucks
Are we ever going to get the Velociraptor build reposted? Has there been any public information about their removal or potential return?
The non-uniformity of the Evaporust action that occured on Norm's blaster barrel happened because you let the part become partially non-submerged. Evaporust is mostly water, so it will evaporate and decrease in volume. The water/air interface of the evaporust is intensely reactive, and will etch a strong line into steel parts. I learned this the hard way, when I etched a hard hard line into a set of 1895 Starrett Jenny calipers by letting them sit half submerged in a ziplock bag.
If you care for the finish to remain uniform, you MUST absolutely ensure that the part stays submerged during the entire process.
Keeping the part in the Evaporust for 3 days is fine, but not if you let it evaporate to the point where the part breaches the surface.
Yes!!! This is super important! I one of my machinist jacks has a deeply etched line in it for this reason.
Glad someone else said this.
Ohhh... "The water/air interface of the evaporust is intensely reactive" -- what would happen if you had air bubbling through it? Would an aerated mix work faster?
@@hydroxacte it might work faster, but only because it might mechanically remove some rust.
Been there, didn't scar anything as cool!
Tip, put the part in a ziplock bag and drive the air out.
Potential tip, because I think it would help on heavy rust, but have not tried- EvapoRust in an ultrasonic bath, or the ziplock in a water bath.
I should try this...
Just remember to fully submerge your items with ~ 150-200L of evaporust.
On toast with Nutella.
Ya know, that might work,lol.....giggle
Doesnt work in Canada
The UA-cam community is forever expanding.
Fully expecting AvE to drop by quoting ToT while Alex makes spaghetti noodles.
Evaporust is awesome. While my dad was in the hospital, a water leak filled the drawers of his tool chest. All of his nice socket sets were fully submerged for weeks. As soon as i discovered it, i bought a big jug of evaporust and let them sit for a few days. They all came out completely rust free and good as new. He has since passed away and I inherited his tools. I'm reminded of good memories working in the shop with my dad every time I use those sockets.
Sorry for your loss brother x
For sure your Dad was a great Man
Keep on...
I have been using Evaporust quite a bit and it’s a great product. Yesterday when I was using it, I inadvertently placed my plastic container over a neodymium magnet - the liquid was as clear as new after 24 hours as all the peeled-off metal had been picked up my the magnet. Try it…
No way.... I have to try this
Similar effect to the magnetic ring in the bottom of a transmission oil reservoir. Captures any worn metal bits reducing wear and tear. I’ll definitely try it!
Omg
Glue the magnet onto the container and you keep the liquid metal free.
I love comments that sound scientifically true. It always attracts nods from the half wits. The truth is that rust is not magnetic and no magnets in the world will pick up rust.
I discovered this stuff about a year ago and it has become my go-to whenever I have anything that needs to be made rust-free. I've even had good luck soaking paper towels in it and then wraping the towel around rusty objects and waiting several hours. In most cases you don't need to wait overnight, just a couple of hours will remove all but the thickest, most stubborn rust! Obviously it won't fill in pits, but it will remove the rust that caused them!
"It's not perfect, but it's fantastic"
That's an Adam t-shirt quote if I ever heard one 😂
Someone make this happen. It will restore the 2020's.
He's absolutely right though. Perfection is pretty much unachievable. Fantastic is still faaaaaar off perfection.
Never perfect but acquitted
Or, on a T-shirt:
I'm not perfect but I'm ...
(And on the back)
F A N T A S T I C !
TOOL TIP BONUS: WHEN SAVING THE LIQUID, PUT THE DIRTY STUFF IN A CLEAR, SEALED CONTAINER AND SET ASIDE FOR A FEW DAYS TO LET THE MUCK SETTLE TO THE BOTTOM BEFORE POURING IT BACK IN THE ORIGINAL CONTAINER. WORKS GREAT WITH PAINT THINNER TOO!
I know this post is old. But I actually just throw it through a coffee filter twice and works out great :D
@@JamezGrimm you don't find that the filtered Evaporust still degrades the remaining new stuff in the original bottle?
I read on the website that partial quantities of Evaporust "MUST NOT be returned to the bottle once used. Doing so will degrade the unused product and eventually ruin it completely."
@@JamezGrimm
Good idea... But.. Does this not give your coffee a bitter taste??? 🤔
I have used disposable paint filters to get most of the contaminates out, works pretty well.
Magnets pull all rust out...
That moment when you realise Adam Savage also watches those long no-music no-voice videos of people restoring tools.
Hand Tool Rescue FTW
@@reeceguisse17 My Mechanics for the precision win.
@@rdouthwaite Why not both?
Hand tool rescue is only no voice if you don't pay the cup of coffee a month for his sensual vocal stimulus..
@@Pickleriiiiiick true, but not even Adam can support every channel he’s subscribed to.
I've used white vinegar for years on everything you can imagine and find it worked better than anything else. Sometimes it may take a few days but it's always returned the metal back to being rust free. Try something like that spring in some vinegar and see what ya think. Miss you guys, thank God for reruns lol!
Do you dilute with water and have a suggestion on ratio? Im going to give it a try
@@guerrilla118 I just use straight white vinegar. Mostly on old tools so with a shallow tray I only use a gallon. If it's a big item try to find a container roughly the same size. Sometimes it may just take a day or so but heavily rusted things may need a week or better. It'll go from clear to looking like a brownie mix. Salt can be used with vinegar to speed it up too. I wire brush afterwards and put the tools in a baking soda and water mix to neutralize the acid. From there I rinse in hot water (so it will dry quicker,) sand if necessary, and paint. If you don't want to paint then I've had good luck using air filter spray oil to keep things from getting rusty.
@Governor I appreciate that, Im going to try it out. For the container I have a heavy contractor trash bag I will use that should hold it and an old trash can incase it leaks, and will be able to use for awkward shaped tools as well and should be able to reuse that same bag everytime. Then just reuse that same vinegar until its not effective anymore. I am going to use CLP to polish it up, I use as my hunting rifle lubricant/cleaner. CLP stands for cleaner, lubricant, preservative so that should work for my tools as well. Im restoring my old well digger so hopefully it gets the inside too
@@guerrilla118 sounds good except you'll probably wind up just using a new bag every time and I don't imagine you'd wanna reuse the vinegar. Depending on how rusty the part is, and how long you soak it, the vinegar will be pretty funky. I've soaked some very old tools with no visible markings, like some 100+yr old ax heads, and the top layer of the vinegar looked like an overcooked pizza with big rusty-yellow bubbles. Afterwards though I could see the makers stamp.
Just do not let the vinegar spill on your cement garage floor. It etched a path where it made contact 😮
I've had terrific luck with rust removal using electrolysis. A $5 garage sale 3 amp manual battery charger, a piece or two of steel plate, and $4 worth of Washing Soda is all that's needed and it is super effective. Also quite satisfying to watch the process occur. I've come to realize that metal isn't really rusty. Rather, the rust is growing on the metal, and eating away at it. And with minor electrical persuasion, you can literally get that rust to jump off of your part and onto that steel plate. It's a car restorer's dream.
I think the Evapo-Rust might be a perfect compliment to this process, for smaller parts like nuts and bolts.
Adam, thank you for featuring this product. I just picked some up yesterday and put a part that I made over 25 years ago in it. Came up beautifully, a little high grit sanding and you'd think it was brand new. Holy cr*p mate, this stuff is incredible!
Adam, from the bottom of my heart, thank you for this tool tip. This stuff is ridiculous. I bought a small bottle to test with and oh my god. I used it on miscellaneous tools and it worked great, but then I tried it on a pair of linesman's pliers that my daughter had dug up in the back yard that looked like it had been in the ground since the early 70's when the house was built. Totally covered in rust, frozen solid, surely a lost cause...it took a few nights in the Evapo-Rust, but other than some pitting in the handles, the thing works like new. Now I'm running around looking for rusty things. I know I sound like a commercial, but so what? It works.
A thing to note: while it won't effect most finishes, it will strip any bluing from steel.
Heh heh heh ty i was gunna use this on my rifle
Bluing is an iron oxide, so it makes sense that it would be removed.
Thanks, I was just about to ask. 👍
@@Shad0wBoxxer how much rust do you need to remove? If it’s substantial then you will probably have to re-blue the firearm. If it’s a light rust try some Flitz polish. Just apply with a clean non abrasive cloth, leave for 15 minutes, and polish off. It may even improve any bluing that you have remaining on the gun.
@@Shad0wBoxxer watch some c&r anvil episodes on UA-cam, pro gunsmith, shows you lots of good stuff, including exactly how to deal with every stage of rust
As a Musclecar restorer, I approve this message! Great stuff! Follow it up with some RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) and those parts will never rust again!
I used to work at a hardware store and about 2007 I had found this stuff. I wanted to make a good demonstration piece for the store so they would stock it. I used an old iron pipe flange which had been outside for several years and was pretty rusty. I left it suspended in the evaporust about halfway on the diameter and brought the piece in to show my coworkers, They were amazed at the difference and the plumbing dept. woman even noted that the crayon that she used to mark the price on the flange had been exposed again, without any harm to that writing. I wasn't even aware that I had bought the flange there in the first place but she recognized her writing! it has been stocked in the store ever since. love this stuff
I've been using white vinegar for years to remove rust with excellent results. The price is right too. Use extra strength when you can find it. Works best when warm.
Smart man. I have been using it for years also. Think it works great, and a lot less money!
Hi, What do you coat your tools with after cleaning them in the vinegar bath? Thank you
@@robinboucherwonderfulflight i use a light oil. WD-40 or something.
Note to Self: Coating metal after rust removal
As a Chemistry teacher, I am really excited to look up what the heck is in this fluid, to do what it does. To the research!
It's cool stuff! As far as I recall it's a chelating agent. The MSDS wasn't much help, but I looked into it further and can't remember a single thing from what I found except that it was really interesting!
I believe it is a form of EDTA but cannot prove it at this time.
If your interested a channel called "ElementalMaker" just had a video about Evapo-Rust and it's components about 3 weeks ago. The tl;dr version if I remember correctly was that most signs post to EDTA as the main active ingdient.
@@ronondex6 would not EDTA being the active ingredient bust their claims of safety and biodegradable?
From what I read about EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) on Wikipedia ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylenediaminetetraacetic_acid ) I would call it "environmentally safer" rather than "safe". It's unclear how to correctly dispose of it as I'm reluctant to believe that dumping it down the drain is okay.
I was a real skeptic about this, but I'm convinced. I cleaned up a bunch of tools that had been left in the rain and it worked like advertised. They still required some polishing, but all of the rust was gone. Thanks!
This video convinced you?
I've been using this for years, I got it through Lee Valley and it's a great product. I've suspended items in solution so that the chemical can react with the maximum surface area. Your rusted spring might be better if you had a way to either extend it during immersion or place it in a glass beaker with solution, and then inside an ultrasonic cleaner.
I would have liked it if you mentioned that the solution is finally expended when it becomes 'black'. It helps to know that.
Thank you Ed, I just asked that question to Adam! so, have you used this product with an ultrasonic cleaner? it´s "safe" for the cleaner? does the product has the same "life" using the cleaner or expends sooner?
Is it really safe for the skin? a lot of companies say stuff is safe but not realy that safe.
Sorry, I didn't realise that someone responded to my post. The quick answer is, 'No, I've never used this product in an ultrasonic cleaner. I tend to not experiment with products as a precaution against voiding the warranty or otherwise causing damage in the process. I do warm the product up in a hot water bath, to help it along though.
Over the past few years I've been using vinegar for rust removal and have been happy with it. Recently I've used Evapo-Rust. What I've discovered is that if you had taken the heavily rusted spring out of the Evapo-Rust after a few hours and worked on it with a wire brush for a few minutes to loosen the heavy rusted areas and returned it to the Evapo-Rust, your results would have been even better and faster.
We used EvapoRust extensively during my son's Eagle project, which was restoring old, rusty bikes to donate to needy kids. Any and all small rusty parts went into this stuff, including chains. We were able to save a lot of the chains this way. It's GREAT!
The rusty spring 🤷🏻♂️so so.
I've been using the same gallon for around half a year now and it's all black liquid at this point but still works great. definitely see why everyone loves it, glad it has adams stamp of approval as well!
try straining it though a coffee filter
If there ever is a Back to the Future reboot/remake, Adam Savage as Doc Brown would be perfect
Does Jamie get to be Mr Strickland?
@@TrekBeatTK Jesus didn't that guy ever have hair...
I’m in.
Now is the perfect time. The cybertruck is here.
Its the hair, ain't it?
Hi Adam, Indeed a great product! I'm a certified jeweler and I made a ultrasonic machine out of pvc pipe for longer pieces and used this product and WAO, it worked beautifully, and also the ultrasonic machine helped along big time! Adam thanks for sharing this video! 🙂👍
Hey Adam I’ve been using this evaporust since 2020 doing restoration work on a 1974 Porsche 911 and I’ve used it on numerous parts and it really works great go and let them soak and sometimes some of them I scrub with a steel brush and then put back in the evapo rust solution and it works great to get rid of the rust before painting. It works great for me that I found.
I accidentally tested the "safe for eye contact" and I knew it happened and cleaned it out fairly quickly but there was no issues in the morning.
You're the man science needs, but doesn't deserve.
"The difference between science and screwing around is writting it down". As you wrote this comment you turned it into science!
I think technically shampoo is safe for eye contact, at least baby shampoo and that still burns like fire lol
@@PlatoonGoon*cries in pain* johnson and johnson you lying bastards
No more tears is referring to hydrating your hair and preventing split ends. It’s not safe in your eyes. Misleading asf and they know it.
Some say, that he drinks a gallon of evaporust each morning, and has an unhealthy addiction to snorting sandblasting grit. All we know is, he's called Hand Tool Rescue..
Hahaha. It's a great pick-me-up.
@@HandToolRescue I haven't been this star struck since I accidentally sneezed on the king of Sweden * true story *
He ain't no Stig...some say the Stig has a 3rd eye...and it's made from a testis...
I have watched every episode of "Hand Tool Rescue". His videos are relaxing and he just may be the best at what he does. I love that he has an entire plastic barrel of Evap -O- Rust and just lowers a basket of parts into the drum. LOL!
I vouch for this. I purchased this onsale years ago and it was the best rust remover I ever had. I forgot the name of it and couldnt find it until now, thanks to the video.
I came across this video by accident, but since I like Savage and I've been removing rust from 70+ year old Griswold cast iron, so I wanted to see what you had to say. Low and behold, it's the Evaporust that I've been using. Yes, it is completely amazing and has proven safe to easily get off stubborn rust from the cast iron, wash with dish soap really well and begin seasoning.
"When you work with steel, you have to deal with rust."
I am a Corrosion Engineer, and the number of people I encounter who don't grasp this idea saddens me.
Also, for anyone who happens to read through here - most metals and/or their alloys corrode in some environment or another. Not using steel isn't necessarily a valid corrosion management strategy for a given service application.
Corten 👍
1
Rust never sleeps!
May I ask how you ended up in that field of engineering?
Yup, I'm an AMT so I see corrosion of aluminum and aluminum alloys all the time
Thank you for this recommendation, I have a lot of old tools from my dad and grandpa that were in desperate need of rust removal. It worked beautifully.
I know Hand Tool Rescue uses this stuff by the 55 gallon drum and all of his restorations are amazing after a soak in the stuff.
GAS POWERED HAND DRILL
@@ThePotFather in 50 years people will look at gas powered chainsaws the same way lmao
@@specialopsdave nah unless we get batteries that are 5x better
@@thepope2412 We will, eventually
@@specialopsdave Probably not but we'll see.
For some items, the Evaporust is great, for some other items such as that spring that is heavily rusted, I prefer to use electrolysis. Evaporust is quite expensive, but it lasts quite a long time. Electrolysis is quite cheap, but the setup and cleanup takes time.(Doesn't everyone have a 12volt battery charger and some washing soda?)
Electrolysis can cause Hydrogen Embrittlement and cracking under load. Google it.
electrolysis is dangerous, anyone can buy evaporust or vinegar and be safe.
Just vinegar alone works wonders. I had some rusty tools from a tool box in my shed and I thought there was no way in hell I could ever clean that rust off but then someone tipped me off with the vinegar trick and it worked WAY better than I expected! Vinegar is like natures miracle cleaner.
Fr works good if u let it sit for 2 days same with vin or lemon
Works even better if you add some 30 per cent hydrogen peroxide to it. I get my supply thru beauty supply companies
Not that exited about the spring,I’ve used the product it’s just ok,there was still visible rust clumps and it’s not really that reusable
Hi Adam, I just read your book. I thought it was the BEST book I have ever read. It really inspired me and helped me think about future projects, Thanks for the best content
Hi, what's the title please
@@MrFlyingPanda Every Tool's a Hammer
Note to Self: book recommendation
Adam: Reveals jug of Evapo-rust
Me: hears the Hand Tool Rescue theme
I was looking for the trach on the floor, and unnecessarily prominent adjustable wrenches the whole video.
Yep, as soon as I saw the logo.
🤣 YES!
wheres the nutella??
The modelllllll.
It's funny that as soon as you said restoration videos + Evaporust I knew exactly the channel you were talking about. And my guess is Hand Tool Rescue which has a giant bucket of Evaporust.
Exactly. Some people are referring to My Mechanics yet he doesn't use Evaporust!
Evapo-Rust is amazing! I've tried out so many different rust removers (and preventers) since moving to coastal Texas, where the unrelenting humidity has sometimes even started to rust brand-new tools prior to even opening the packaging, and there's nothing I've liked better than Evapo-Rust…it outperforms even those products that burn any unprotected eyes and lungs that dared to venture too close to an open container of them, and yet it's not irritating to handle or be around at all.
If you haven't tried yet, I recommend filling up an ultrasonic parts washer with undiluted Evapo-Rust at a warm, but not too hot (like some others have mentioned, it has a high water content and is prone to evaporation), depending on the heat-sensitivity of the material that you're restoring, I've found that ≈35-50ºC tends to be a good temperature. In my experience, when soaking in an ultrasonic washer, you'll remove the same amount of rust in about 30 minutes to 2 hours as you'd remove in a traditional soak in 24-48 hours, while still leaving the finish unharmed (save for any etching from the rust itself, of course). It takes care of most of the post-soak wiping/brushing for you, too. Within moments of turning the ultrasonic machine on, visible clouds of rust start to rise off the part's surface, which is a satisfying bonus to watch, haha.
Also, if you are okay (or would prefer) with a little bit of surface refinishing, I've found that the Roloc-style bristle discs, along with their rotary tool equivalent for tight areas, are an absolutely incredible for rust removal (as well as polishing, heavy cleaning, and deburring), with minimal removal of the base material, especially on irregular or intricate surfaces that are normally time-consuming to get good coverage of (like the spring in this video). They seem to be more durable that a typical wire brush, while leaving fewer marks on the surface you're restoring. The combination of Evapo-Rust and bristle discs has allowed me to restore and reuse parts that I would never have imagined were worth attempting to salvage before discovering these products.
ER is great, however if you want decent quantities its rather pricey at $30/g.
I like Rust911. It comes in a concentrate and you just mix with water
Their smallest product is 16 oz which makes 2g for $35.
I’ve been using this for a motorbike restoration and I think this is the best out of a bunch of different products I’ve tried over the project. A bit pricey (here in the UK) but worth every penny!
I discovered this stuff a few years ago. It's been invaluable restoring my 83 Trans Am.
Pretty car for a pretty chick.
@@danielocean2665 awwwwww, thank you. Just put a big grin on my face. Have yourself a great day honey. :)
I rescued two very hard to find panels for my 1968 double cab that separate the gas tank to the rear cab with this stuff. I put the panels in vacuum bags and poured the evaporust in. They came out perfect. I even got back the original paint and just ended up sealing them with a clear coat. Love this stuff too.
My specific restoration-video proclivities lie mostly with "Odd Tinkering". He mostly fixes up old, hopelessly aged and filthified video game things, but the videos are beautiful, nearly silent, and calming in a way that feels like I am being actively drawn into a meditative state of mind. Highly, highly recommend Odd Tinkering.
Yes!! If only the ducktor was in the video it would be complete. 😂
His restoration videos almost give me ASMR! Love his channel!
I love the ducktor!
I'm an "Odd Tinkering" fan myself, I've always loved his on camera buddy the "Ducktor" for when he's cleaning parts, but I also I like "TySy Restoration," due to him usually leaving his mark (sticker) somewhere underneath or embedded on something he's refurbished, and also I like "My Mechanics," for his "I make new one" when it comes to creating his own bolts, nuts and screws to replace outdated ones.
Tried Evapo-rust yesterday to see how well it cleaned old horse shoes for a project, prior to watching this video. Amazed by the results after just a 16hour soak
Thanks for the heads up! I wish they sold in a smaller container (eg. 250ml), smallest is 1 litre which is more than I'd use in a lifetime (restoring battery contacts on 80s 90s toys).
Important to remember that if you have any sort of bluing on the steel it will remove that too because if I'm not mistaken it is a form of oxide.
You are correct.
At work I noticed the inside wall of our dough mixer's stainless steel bowl had a thin half inch thick oil slick looking discoloration running along the circumference. Over time, the steel had oxidized because of friction between the bowl and a nearby shelf it was rubbing against as it spun.
You're a form of oxide.
@@HandToolRescue don't tell anyone.
Been binge watching those restoration videos also. They're Zen af.
It’s reassuring that both Adam and I are served the same videos by the UA-cam algorithm
I've had the 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust for a couple of years now... It was expensive but has been worth the money as I just toss stuff into the included basket and let it sit overnight. Way easier than messing with bags, and virtually none of the product is wasted. Highly recommended if you deal with rusty items regularly.
I have used this on a lot of rusty body panels, etc for car restoration. Amigos. This works incredibly well, has saved me a ton of time on having to prep/restore parts, panels & tools. I have saved money by using this as well, because I didn't have to trash items that might've been too much trouble to clean up.
Ask for cleanup and Disposal this stuff is pretty easy to deal with as well.
Seriously, this stuff for rust removal and higher-concentration hydrogen peroxide + UV for de-yellowing plastics are 2 of my absolute favorite things from the realm of restoration projects. 😁
Where do you get your hydrogen peroxide?
@@caseytbss I haven't done it yet myself, but one of my favorite channels: *OddTinkering* does a lot of tech and gadget restoration where I learned about it from. As far as I know you can get 12% off Amazon, and think you'd have to special order from a supplier for anything higher.
Denture cleaning tablets work great for de-yellowing plastics I find. Plus it's usually minty fresh.
For hydrogen peroxide de-yellowing UV light can be substituted by elevated temperature of the liquid. Hydrogen peroxide makes oxygen, which needs energy to break up the organic compounds that turn plastics yellow. Sodium percarbonate can be used as a reasonably cheap source of hydrogen peroxide to make a bath of it. Paste and UV light is better / easier for large parts.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz mo
Oh wow, that's pretty great for just sitting there! I use this stuff called Bar Keepers Friend, which does an awesome job and isn't too rough on your hands, but it is an abrasive, so it can mess with the finish. 100% going to grab a bottle of this stuff!
Project Farm did a great comparison of Evaporust vs the competitors (and vs electrolysis). The stuff really works.
It works well. Very expensive though! If you need to do a lot of rust removal there are far cheaper options. They may take a bit longer however. Or be a little smellier(molasses and apple cider vinegar). :D
I use cheap white vinegar and get identical results to Adams.
All the people touting vinegar. Haha! Yeah, it eats the rust... and the metal. NOT like chelating process of evaporust at all! :)
Well, I've not tried evaporust, but I get what looks like identical outcomes with vinegar, which is super cheap and eco, re-usable, safe, etc... Perhaps the chemical process is not the same, but the rust is eaten before the metal suffers and I'm happy with it.
one thing I was curious about was if electrolysis helped this, like it does with vinegar. I'll have to check that video out. And yeah.. almost nobody is leaving these parts in vinegar for a week in order to get metal damage. I saw amazon has a gallon of this stuff for about $16 and some moderately high strength vinegars are about the same price point so it's not a bad option.
I tried it. yes it is a great product. It is a water based chemical. Read the directions on the container and call their tech support if you have questions. Something to remember, I was given a "heads up" warning that "Flash Rust" could occur with freshly treated steel. I treated the Jeep gas tank skid plate for 4 hours, the solution was rinsed off the tank with water and immediately dried. In my process of drying the tank I made sure all moisture was driven off the steel surface (like hot sunny day) and then applied a good steel primer (Rust-Oleum.) after thorough drying. I look forward to using it again on some of my metal Garden ornaments.
I've found that vinegar works really well! You do have to agitate the parts sitting in the vinegar and then coat them with some petroleum based product afterwards but works amazing!!!
yup, much cheaper too. Malt vinegar. Soak for 24 hrs.
With parts as rusty as that spring, you have to combine a mechanical action (as in knocking off the outer layers of rust), with the EVAPO-RUST, so that the Evapo-rust can penetrate. You will have much more complete removal if you do both.
For any heavy rust, it's wise to employ the use of a wire wheel before using a product like Evaporust or going to Electrolysis. Removing any rust that will come off via the wheel will definitely speed up total rust removal. Even using a wire brush with some elbow grease is better than nothing. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
I wonder how using evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner would aid in heavy rust removal, such as the spring in this video. This could be an interesting follow up video idea.
While reusable, it's not *infinitely* reusable, longevity depends on how much rust you are removing. I would also pour mine through a coffee filter when putting back in the bottle to filter out the sludge that accumulates near the bottom.
For larger items I still prefer to do the electrolysis method as it is much cheaper than buying gallons of Evaporust. But for smaller items, evaporust is hard to beat.
I was thinking this as there is a clear color difference between his 2 parts here
Electrolysis is the go-to I use on large parts. Last lawn tractor I restored required dunking the mower deck. No way I was going to fill a 50 gallon plastic drum with evapo-rust.
Rust911 is likely the same product at $3.75/gallon. This is sold at about $60 for one gallon that makes 16 gallons. You are quite welcome LOL. . Love the stuff.
Been using it for years. It is the best chemical rust remover I have ever used.
i friggen love this guy!!! He was THE soul of the show. He and imaharra and Kari made the show sooo awesome! I still dont know why he was paired as he was with the world's.......well, lets just say the man was a TV show martyr for a long time, lets admit it. You all KNOW what im talking about!!! His enthusiasm and love of the craft is undeniable!!Best personality this side of Tom Hanks!!
Oh, You mean the guy who moved to Greece to avoid extradition here in the states? Something about activity on a certain island? Yeah, great personality.........He had me fooled as well.
“Sorry Norm!”
Then immediately uses Norm’s toothbrush on the rusty spring 😂
🤣🤣
I’m sure Norm has his tetanus shot.
My Mechanics has the most satisfying restoration channel that exists today.
And TysyTube :)
@@Kyudos definitely a close second! Honestly I watch them all for different reasons. Mechanics machine work, some others for gratuitous use of the sand blaster. It's great when they collaborate. I even branched off into antique painting restoration for a little while lol
Note to Self: Restoration Channel
I've been using this extensively for several years now on vintage mopeds and scooters. My best advice is to pre-clean your parts beforehand. I generally use it to salvage rusted out gas tanks, and a pre-clean with soapy water works wonders.
Evaporust is not a degreaser or cleaner, but on a surface with only rust, it will work amazingly well. Agitation during soaking helps, too.
I've managed to rescue 40 year old gas tanks and parts that were covered I'm flaky rust chunks. Usually I let them soak a few days and they come out as clean metal.
Do u have any videos of how to clean gas tank
I've been using this stuff for about 6 years. Really good. Some parts I thought would never come apart eventually did after soaking for a few weeks. It's also really good for getting at rust you can't physically get to like rust down in holes. It's called "rust chelation" if you want to learn more about this chemical process.
I am impressed. Remember the rust on that old spring went deep, so yes it not going to come totally clean. I have some of that stuff and need to use it on some old tools I have that have rust on them. That would be a good winter project.
Evaporust or bust. It seriously changed my garage workflow.
You watch Hand Tool Rescue! You should pick up one of his wrenches.
I should send him some!
Got a wrench almost immediately! Delight in his channel!
Hand Tool Rescue is one of my top 3 UA-cam channels! Exceptionally well done, informative and always entertaining.
Another option for rust removal I found is simple white vinegar from the grocery store in gallon jugs. I had a super rusty gas tank from a motorcycle and ended up putting 5 gallons of vinegar in it for 3 days it came out looking brand new!
Yup! Evaporust is probably $25 a gallon and vinegar is like $5.
Vinegar is an acid so it's not going to be safe for all surfaces (It'll eat paint for example). It does indeed work though, as does Citric Acid which you can buy in powder form and mix with water when ever you need a bit of mild acid for removal of ...stuff. A little goes a long way.
My personal favorite is a product called "Metal Rescue". It probably uses the same process as Evaporust as it's also touted as environmentally safe but it doesn't leave the sticky film on everything (while that film can reduce flash rusting, it can be a pain to remove before painting). Metal rescue also doesn't smell as bad.
I've used all of the above and all will work but each has its place.
Don't water your time with vineger!
Adam, your channel is the bees knees! I have just been bitten by the restoration bug. I have been binging on vintage tool restoration videos here on UA-cam. I have restored a junk screw driver and I made a brand-new wood handled ball peen, hammer look and feel like it should autta feel. I sanded the shiny shellac, or whatever it was, I used my blowtorch to bring out the grain, sanded it just a bit and applied boiled linseed oil. Then I removed the paint from the head and buffed the beegeebers out of it. I digress (as always). Rust removal! that seems to be the most common aspect of the restoration process, so that was the focus of my search and you and I have come to the same conclusion on this product. Anyhoo, I always feel compelled to comment on your great videos, but when I see 2,464 comments, I think, Adam will never see my comment. Ahh, what the hell, I give it a shot. Live long and prosper, my friend.
I have a 47 year old truck & I use EvapoRust all the time.
Many times would I have old screws, bolts, brackets or just miscellaneous parts I'll just put them in a container and let'em soak; a few days, few weeks. Evapo-rust always works great
I love Evapo-Rust, but have noticed that you absolutely must apply an oil coating afterwards or the surface rusts over VERY quickly again.
Love the videos, and use a coffee filter in a funnel when pouring it back into the bottle to remove the sediment.
Yep, key point about the filter
Yes, I keep a supply of cheap coffee filters in the shop for that kind of thing. I guess I'm just an old sedimental fool.
It did a pretty good job on the spring, but I really was expecting it to be like brand new lol. Like you can see the shiny metal behind the rust haha.
I have been using phosphoric acid for rust removal for years and and it works nearly instantly, although it has the consistency of water. It is the main ingredient in Naval Jelly rust remover and works much faster but doesn't stay put if applied to a part instead of soaking. It can be had at Home Depot usually. Caveat: don't use any rust remover on blued firearms unless you like them in the white.
Hand tool rescue is one of my favorite tool restoration channels. That’s how I first learned of it.
Acetone is a wonderful rust remover, I've discovered. Also, those sheet rock sanding blocks work great for scrubbing off rust. CLR bathroom cleaner (not the scale remover kind we're all used to) also works well for some reason.
good to know. i have some chrome drum hardware sitting in diluted clr bathroom cleaner right now
@@360.Tapestry hope it works out! I know chrome can be a bit of a different beast, since it's a coating over what's rusting, AFAIK. The things I said are mainly for steels of various sorts. I imagine rusty drum hardware is as annoying to drummer as getting rust on the strings is to bassists.
@@pete-ph5xc it worked fine. if nothing else, it got a lot of the scummy build up off. but i still had to take steel wool to the most affected areas. this is what you get when you buy neglected equipment to make an acoustic-to-electric conversion drum kit lol it's par for the course
@@360.Tapestry true. I've found that the green scrub pads work just as well on rust if they have some cleaner available, and don't scratch quite as bad as steel wool. If you need a shiny surface afterwards, the drywall sanding blocks come in handy for doing that, although you're not going to get a mirror polish... and if the rust has gotten any deeper than surface rust, it's always going to be discolored, at least in my experience. Still, sometimes it's worth it to sacrifice some looks to get something a bit cheaper. Can always take out as much as you can, hit it with rustoleum clear and call it shabby retro chic or what have you, lol.
I suppose it's also worth mentioning that the evaporust he's got really is fantastic, as well.
Oh, are we talking about Hand Tool Rescue? Great channel
I have a friend who is an artisan blacksmith and according to him, rust is something that you want as a blacksmith. If he had unlimited time on each project, he would let his creations rust on purpose, then mechanically remove excess rust and hit it with Phosphoric acid. He says that layer gives better protection than any regular thickness of zinc plating or alternatives, especially if you also hit it with paint.
I can imagine it's a similar thing to steel plate. It's far better to let the steel scale up (letting the mill scale actually bloom), clean it and then coat it than coat fresh steel. If you don't let it rust then you're either left with coating it and watching your coating fall off in a couple of years or blasting it to hell to get the pre-bloom scale off.
We (CMU Costume Studio) had a heavy metal chain mail cowl that was rusted. I was looking for a solution that required the least amount of work and smell to remove the rust. Came across your video on UA-cam about Evapo-Rust and how it work by just soaking the item. It was Biodegradable and reusable. Sounded like the product I was looking for. Purchased a quart of the liquid form. Soaked the Cowl for about 2 1/2 hours. It worked beautifully. A quick rinse, rub down on a towel and 15 minutes in the oven, it is a wearable item. Thanks for the video on the product.
First I want to say that I could watch a video Adam showing the proper use of using a shop broom and be totally enthralled. He is just so amazing to waych and listen to and I learn something with every video of his I watch. Regarding this rust removal video... I just watched Adam's video and a few videos where I people where getting similar or better results using vinegar. Has anybody else experimented with vinegar?
Hand Tool Rescue is one of my favorites. You didn't name names, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess he was a large part of your rabbit hole. If not, check it out.
Everyone who's watched Hand Tool Rescue instantly clicked on this video
I have always used white vinegar. Totally safe and eco friendly and I make pickles with it too.
Same - results look identical to my experience with vinegar, but evaporust may be a bit slower it seems to me.
Me too. Cheap as all get out and works faster. The spring in vinegar and salt would have come out 100% better for sure.
Stuff works great. I used heated, in an ultrasonic cleaner. If extra crusty going in, may hit it with a brass brush in the sink basin. Amazing results on my old tool finds.
My goto for heavily rusted steel parts. Nuts, bolts screws, springs clips, washers etc. Is overnight in a rock polisher with course carbide grit, water and a squirt of joy dishwashing detergent. Works amazing.
I found this stuff a little over a year ago the same way, watching videos from people like Hand Tool Rescue with his giant magic cauldron of rust remover. I've used it on a couple of my own video projects since (also inspired by HTR and others). I love it! like you said, not a miracle fluid but a great tool! Wait till you fall down the rabbit hole he started about Japanning!
I first saw this years ago on american pickers. It does work very well but I have found that some older steel like old wrenches will turn black. It might be the difference in iron content in the metal or the plating. You can also drip soak hard to remove fasteners with it to aid in removal.
Old-school carbon steel often forms a black surface, newer alloy steels use far less carbon and so they come out of the tank 'brighter'.
@@pirobot668beta Thank you. That explains it then.
I feel stupid now, I didn't know this stuff exists. Been using "RUST OFF!" which means wearing two spacesuits and robot arms, evacuating the town around me, and diverting air traffic.
I used this on a rusty, dirty, and well neglected moped chain. Evapo Rust with some scrubbing made it look as good as it could. I also soaked all the rusted nuts and bolts. The moped was as clean as it could get.
I've always felt kinda weird liking tool restoration videos (I never miss a "Hand Tool Rescue" vid). I feel less weird, now. That, or Adam and I share a bit of cosmic weirdness.
A trick I learned from watching MichaelCthulhu is that soaking things in regular vinegar also works really well to strip off rust.
And mill scale. Love that man's dedication to his craft
@Woolier Blueberry if you go too long it's more than slightly, and evaporust does the same thing. It's called carbon migration.
+1 for vinegar. I use it a lot and I'd say this stuff looks like it works the same but a bit slower. The results after 72 hours look identical to about 12-24 hours in vinegar.
Try 1 part black treacle or molasses to 9 or 10 parts water. You get none of the carbon migration issues from leaving it in too long as the sugars dissolve the rust and hold them in suspension. They don't attack the steel like a relatively strong acid. It's the slowest form of rust removal (that spring would take a week+ but would come out spotless) but you can leave the part in their indefinitely as long as it's submerged and not overly diluted. I had a motorbike frame submerged in a paddling pool of the stuff for a few years come out spotless.
And strips the metal. Evaporust doesn't eat the metal... at all! All the acids will dissolve rust, and the base metal the rust is on eventually.
Evaporust works even better in an ultrasonic cleaner (in a plastic tub sitting in the water, don't put it in the metal tub of the ultrasonic cleaner).
I'll have to give this a try, I have soaked parts in vinegar in the past to remove rust. Vinegar will eat rust very quickly but it will turn parts a dull grey after awhile, it also will eat off the finish on some parts. I have had old tools that rusted slowly over the course of years that I then soaked in vinegar only to have them rust in days afterwards. I have found thoroughly rinsing the parts with water, then thoroughly drying the parts and reapplying some sort of finish to work the best.
Love the stuff and been trying to NOT buy the 5 gal bucket. It's great that it's safe and reusable but when there's heavy rust or I need quick results, krud kutter must-for-rust (which feels some solution of phosphoric acid) is a clear winner. I've done weeks on a heavily rusted part with minimal success. Having both in the shop is the move.
I'd love to see something similar to the spring washed in an ultrasonic cleaner with this fluid.
Agreed
Vinegar works pretty well also safe and reusable.
Eric at Hand Tool Rescue told me that Evaporust in an ultrasonic parts washer is gangbusters.
just had the same exact thought
Justin over at The Good of the Land (UA-cam channel) built a huge ultrasonic Evapo-rust tank from a parts washer and commercial transducers. It's amazing!
@@dnwheeler well there goes the afternoon! Thanks for this!
And heat!
Definitely the way to go. I run mine around 100 degrees F.
Not sure how i missed this when it came out.
I use Evapo-Rust when restoring cast iron cookware. 2 gallons and a Walmart tote (with a lid) to dump it in and I have an easily movable, easy way to remove rust. I can't set up a E-tank where I'm at so this stuff in conjunction with a lye tank is a great alternative. It's super safe on the cast iron, washes off easily, can be used for quite some time, and is pretty darn safe. Definitely worth the cost.
I love this stuff, I have been using for years!! Sometimes that soak takes time... days, maybe a week in some very rusty cases. I make sure after the removal of the rust that I run the piece under clean water, dry it off well with a cloth and blow dry it, then quickly dip the item back in the EVAPO-RUST and dry it off... bang!! The next protective coating I use in the process on the item is called BOESHIELD T-9. Try that on bare metal, I think you will thank me :-) ... there is nothing like it to stop the forming of rust on an item. I use it on my cast iron tool beds (band saw, table saw, etc, it leaves no oily film) it is better than paste wax, WD40 or anything else I have tried, all my wood chisels get a very light coating on them as well. My main woodshop is in a non-climate controlled shed, so moisture can be an issue in our crazy Canadian winters... Thanks Adam, glad to see you found this amazing product!