How to make Realistic looking Ho scale Utility poles load
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- Опубліковано 7 січ 2020
- How to make Ho scale Utility poles load for a walthers pulpwood car with Hunterline Weathering Mix for your Model Railroad . Use code Engineer Hall at yankeedabbler.com/ for a 5% discount
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Weathering Mix Instructions:
‘Weathering Mix’ stain is alcohol based. The benefits of using alcohol are fast drying time which helps prevent ‘warping’ of the wood and it’s easy to dilute the mix to get varying degrees of a lighter stain - just purchase a bottle of 70% isopropyl alcohol at the drug store.
Creosote Black: One of our most popular colors used where you would like to add 'grime', 'soot', shadows or an 'oily, greasy' look to your project. For example, along the Tie structure where the rail is located, under the eaves of a roof or the top of a through bridge where the soot from the steam engine would collect. We use it to color our bridge Ties in combination with Light Gray and Tie Brown. It can also be used as a 'wash' over NBW castings - it hi-lites the bolt and washer. It works well on plastic structures - when used as a 'wash' and applied on a shingled roof held upside down, each shingle will be hi-lited. When dry brushed on rail cars, rivets will be hi-lited and you can achieve a very effective 'well used' weathered car. The possibilities are endless!
Application:
We always distress the wood prior to application. Wear protective gloves when handling. Just use any ‘cheap’ brush to apply. Shake the bottle vigorously before using or if you want a lighter color, only shake a little. If using one of the mixes containing pigment, you may need to shake vigorously or stir to thoroughly mix the pigment and alcohol, as the pigment has a tendency to ‘settle’. Use straight from the bottle. We don’t wipe the stain off, unless using our ‘Cottage White’. You may want to wipe this stain off, depending on the effect desired. We really try to apply haphazardly to get varying degrees of color.
Will it work on other material?
You can get a good effect on plastic, paper, cardboard, and hydrocal.
Clean Up - just wash brushes in soap and water
Have fun mixing colors or applying in ‘combinations’. The following instructions will explain how to get an old Barnboard look. You can also use this method to get a ‘peeling’ paint look with different color applications. For example, Barnboard Red weathering - use Light Gray base with Barn Red dry brushing. (see sample images)
Barnboard Gray Weathering Instructions
When doing our research on how to achieve that ‘old weathered’ barnboard gray ‘look’, we noticed that we could see varying degrees of gray and brown colors. Where the wood had ‘rotted’, where there were ‘knots’, or where there was ‘bare wood’, the color was brown.
To achieve this ‘look’, we follow a 3 step application method (It’s not a matter of ‘mixing’ the colors).
What you will need:
3 bottles of our Weathering Mix - Light Gray, Medium Brown, Blue Gray, Any coarse paint brush - size appropriate to the project
Three step application method:
Begin by ‘distressing’ the wood. Use whatever method you are accustomed to. We always use a fine toothed razor saw.
1. Apply one coat of the Light Gray Weathering Mix with your paint brush. No need to ‘wipe’ the color off. It’s great to have varying
degrees of color!
2. Apply the Blue Gray Weathering Mix sporadically on the project using a ‘dry brush’ method. Before applying the color with your brush, dab excess mix on a paper towel. You don’t want the brush too wet. Having your brush a little drier, gives the project a more ‘blended’ look. Remember, you want to see varying colors of gray.
3. Apply the Medium Brown Weathering Mix, following the method in Step 2. Remember, you want to see brown in the areas where there may have been ‘rot’, ‘knots’ or ‘bare’ wood exposed. - Навчання та стиль
I'd use the short ends on the inside of the bundle, leaving the long ones at the visible outside of the bundle. You'll never see the short ones, but they keep the bundle intact. Nice work and instructions.
You have a lot of great ideas. You should do more how-to videos. Your explanations are excellent.
Thank you so much!
Excellent work!!
I’ve found Ritz dye, a mixture of black and brown, works well for creosote poles, while copper naphthenate poles have a green tint, and calcium carbonate poles are white to light grey in color. Most poles have a taper to them which I have been able to replicate by putting poles in a drill and running them over a rasp or large file. Poles come in five foot increments 35, 40, 45 to well over 100 feet
Thanks for making the longer video on how to make them, very good.
No problem thanks for watching
Awesome Video Engineer Hall. That is a serious amount of poles you made there. That adds some nice weight to the cars. I cant believe that loader can hold up the load without tipping over, lol Cheers, Rob
nice looking utility poles... super easy/super cheap/super good looking
Poles come in three classes, #1, poles that are usually 20 or 25 feet tall. Class #2 poles are larger then 30 feet tall, depending on thickness of the base . They come treated with creosote, coppernaphanate and calcium carbonate. Non treated poles are used as piling
Instablaster.
Enjoying the format of your videos
Great instructional video. The poles look really realistic. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Tip: try using a box cutter to cut the dowels. It will save the edge on your Xacto knife.
Cool inexpensive way to make these loads. They look really good. I gotta pick up some of that weathering mix. It’s pretty sweet ! Thanks for sharing. David.
David Appreciate you for checking out my video And your positive feedback
Engineer Hall Yw I’m enjoying the content. It’s funny how I go to Walmart or dollar tree and I’m always trying to think of cheap things I can use for the RR. I saw another UA-camr use that elastic jewelery rope for phone lines. It’s in the craft area where you find the jewelry making supplies. I’m going to give it a try once I get to that point
Hey hall you can also dip the new in a bark shin to make the end look like its Creosote is running out the end so when you stand them up you have a dark in it looks like The creosote is running out
Excellent how to video. What diameter dowels did you use for the Utility poles 3/4" or maybe 1/8"? I have used Hunterline Weathering Mix before and really like it. Thanks again.
Very nice instructional video EH. The loads look great, you did an Awesome job
👍👍👍😎😎😎 Cary
Thank you Cary. I'm glad you enjoyed . Richard
Like a video man thanks appreciate
No problem 👍
Nicely done,,thanks for sharing…
Excellent tutorial. Thanks
Hey Richard, Happy Father’s Day to you. I know this is 3 years old but it just popped up. That was a awesome tutorial and thanks for showing the different colors you got from each dye. I took a screenshot of them so I could have it as a reference for the future. Great technique and not expensive. What more could you ask for? Thanks again.
Engineer hall what color hunterline would be best for osmosis telephone pole load thanks jerry
Just stumbled on your video. That's great info! Thanks!
Awesome video. Ima have to do this I have several packs. And a can of stain oak.
Great video.
Hey dude...just stumbled across your channel...cool segment...just subbed to find you again...cheers for filming
excellent
Great vido. How can you make drywall/gypsum units? I have some semis and need to add units to them.
were did u buy the wheel load at
I would have just taped the sample in with the pile walked out to the garage and used a mitre saw and been done in about 4.5 minutes but thats me.
Great video,going to sub to your channel
Great project.
Thank you!
@@engineerhall5887 I found the dowels at Walmart. Where did you get the dye from.
The prototype loads arent tied down with anything either?
It all depends on the load
wow
Why don't you just use a razor saw and a miter box that comes with the saw in some cases??? Easy and good clean cuts. No sanding needed...OMG, you have the miter box. Why didn't you use it at the front of this??? When you are cutting the bundle, why not just market the ends with the length to cut. Use a pencil... Simple... I was taught that the right way to use the miter box was to hold the item you want to cut hard against the back of the box, then the blade will want to push the items into the back, and you will have no movement and you won't have to hold the item steady as it will hold itself solid to the back wall of the box.