How to Build Model Railroad Freight Car Loads for Centerbeam Flats and Well Cars
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2017
- How to build model railroad freight cars loads for centerbeam flat cars and intermodal well cars. Here is a method to build lumber loads and cargo containers easily and inexpensively. For those Publisher files of containers or lumber loads, please email me at ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com. You can find .jpg files of all of these loads that you can resize and manipulate in the Patron-only section of my Patreon page below.
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For my gondolas, I took styrene strips and glued stone chip beads to them to simulate rock loads. I used some unconventional stones like coral, turquoise and other semi precious because I had them left over from other projects and they were one of a kind for me. I discovered that using hematite stones, painted with Citadel Skrag and Mournfang browns create the effect of rusted metal for scrap loads. I built a whole train of red coral loads and a whole train of hematite painted scrap.
Great how to video Ron I enjoyed watching
Thanks for sharing
Cheers Ron
Great video, I like this!! Thanks for posting Ron. Looks awesome! 👍👍
(N Scale is my favorite Scale that I choose to model in)
I saw this older video and had to ty it, I figured it was too old to ask for the load file so I attempted it myself and it came out pretty well. The loads look great , thanks for the great tip.
Awesome! Glad to hear that.
thanks for the files Ron , will be very useful, thanks again, Bill
Your are quite welcome.
Thanks Ron I enjoyed this. On the wood loads you might consider earth magnets. that's what I did. works great. Thanks for sharing.
That's a great idea, Vincent. Thanks for the tip.
Nice video as always, Ron! One tip, though. For you partial lumber loads, when gluing the paper to the wood, I would do the short inside corner first, and wrap the short strip of paper around the front maybe 1/8-3/16". Then glue the main piece with the logo's on. This will completely cover that corner. You may want to do the same at the top as well. On the load you made in the video, there was a noticeable gap on that upper right middle corner.
Keep the videos comin'!
Instablaster.
Nice video. I used to load these lumber cars and shackle them up. This is pretty realistic for N scale. On HO scale you could add black thread to represent shackle cables that terminate at the top of the center beam. You probably can't do that however if you want your loads to be removable. I would just shackle line the odd lumber car, not all of them.
A couple of comments: the shorter centerbeam flat cars are intended primarily for the Southern Yellow Pine from the Southeast, so it would b appropriate to create wraps for Southern based lumber producers like Domtar, Louisiana Pacific. and others. The longer centerbeam cars are used for wood from the North and Northwest, because that wood is less dense, and it takes more board feet to reach the load limit of the car.
+Noel Stoutenburg That is an interesting point, however the 69' centerbeams do not run EXCLUSIVELY in the south I do not believe. Since my layout runs in the direction of the Pacific NW I don't believe that the one 69' centerbeam I have is out of place carrying NW lumber.
Nice tip...Thanks for sharing....
+Giulius71 Thanks for watching.
Use your logo and extend it further out on all sides of the load. You can then cut out the "tabs" to wrap around the wood with the logo already printed to cover the ends properly. Great video overall.
You are super talented. Wish Atlas O produced their HO 73' partition in O scale one day so I could utilize this method too
This is awesome. I used to see "Roadway" being hauled by trucks everywhere. Every place I went looking for a Roadway load was sold out. You've renewed by interest in well cars. I thank you. My wallet? Not so much. :-)
this is freakin awesome!!! Thanks a bunch!!!
Thanks.
I have mostly gondolas and a few flat cars. I usually make my own weathering chalks. I use the same kitchen grater you use. I grind up some white chalk and mix some food coloring in a communion cup (great little cups for mixing paints). I then add my chalk and stir it up with a tooth pick. I then pour it onto my cutting mat and wait for it to dry. Then I use a single edged razor blade to cut it up as if you were cutting out a line of cocaine. :-) Then I put it back into the communion cup for storage until I need it. For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
That is good info. Thanks for sharing your techniques with us.
Thanks for yet another great video Ron. I actually tried to make loads (not wrapped) for my bulk head flats out of balsa and found Them too heavy and not really realistic. Hence they travel as empties around the layout. Not anymore! I’m gunna put the printer to work and follow your great examples. Cheers - Bruce
hi Ron, again..another really great video. I particularly like one off loads on flatcars. . machinery, etc..create interest for those once in awhile deliveries that shuffle the roster. I have a very cheap flatcar that came with two very unrealistic autos on it. The autos mounted on a peg in the deck of the flatcar so they didn't fall off. What I did was remove the autos..wrap them in light duty plastic wrap and paint them tan and they do appear to be tarp wrapped vehicles that increased the appearance tremendously. Tom
I'd love to see that modified load. Would you email me a pic sometime?
I surely will.. Tom
I had just started to think about how to do modern lumber loads. Perfect timing! Great ideas. I'd also like to see how to do open loads for gondolas and open hoppers.
+SA ModelRail What types of loads interest you. I'm working on different ways to do coal loads now. I also plan to show a coupme ways to do scrap metal loads down the road.
tip: dont use real steel it weighs the car down so much that my strongest cant pull it
Ron, Nice video - been enjoying your channel for some time. Presentation, lighting, content and insights are great. Keep up the good work. I have a few of these centerbeam cars - MT , i use 3 stacked square dowels per side - I am going to try your ideas....Thanks
+ixopop Do you cover the dowels in any way, or just bare wood?
Ron, I use the bare wood. When unloaded however, they are out of scale, your print templates should take care of that :) I glue the dowels for each side , I use "the chopper" to cut my dowels. I never lost cargo, but I think ill steal your pin idea as well to be safe. I also like the 90/80/70% loads ; adds interest.
Excellent video Ron! I was wondering, how would modify your build approach for a bulkhead flatcar load and is there a video? Thanks!
We haul a lot of rail ties on center beams also, untreated and treated. They usually stack up about 2/3 the way up.
Yes, I've seen that. I need to make one of those loads as well. Thanks.
SWEETA!!! THANK YOU for using real wood for the wood loads it makes them that much more realistic & cuz some load I see the covering is sometimes ripped from loading or peeled back from the wind & so I can see wood, , so this is a great way to achieve this effect. thanks ,,, Great tips,,,, Thx for sharing ,,, from TOM at ETHYNVILLE BRO420
+Ethynville Bro420 Yes, it would be easy to model a torn shroud this way.
Hmm, I wonder what inspired you to wear a Batman t-shirt. You gave me a good idea. I should open up some tank cars and add some black liquid, for that real prototype look. Great video Ron as always. I'll keep those files in mind if I ever need them. -Mark
M&M Rails LOL great idea.
Making loads is only limited by your imagination, I've seen wind turbines blades made from model propellers, cement conduit from PVC plumbing/electrical pipe, and wire spools from sewing thread bobins. An inexpensive way to make wrapped cargo like lumber covering etc. is to download it onto a digital camera/sdcard then take it to photocopy center like Kinkos and have them print it. Indeed printing at home is often to expensive and color/photo copies there are cheaper plus you can also take snaps of actual train car loads to use them.
nice video
Thanks.
Hey Ron love ur videos but wouldn't have been easier to paint the wood white in case there is a gap on the paper wrap is won't be as visible? Just a suggestion I love the way u explain things. U make it simple for a simple guy like me 👍
I’ve created my own coal loads much more realistic than the bought plastic ones. I have real branches cut to HO scale for lumber and interested to see how you set your lumber load up.
This is awesome! I am new to railroad modeling and you're channel has helped me greatly.
One nit-picky comment, though. The bands that hold the lumber unit together are under the lumber wrap, so they wouldn't be seen. The vertical lines seen on a loaded center beam are actually the cable tie-down system integral to the car. Still, at N scale, the way you did this really works since the cables would be so thin as to be difficult to see except against the white lumber wrap. At HO scale, maybe eliminate the "strap lines" across the top of the units where the car is partially loaded and tack some fine piano wire from the corner of the unit to the top of the center beam?
Great job as usual, keep 'em coming!
I did a little more looking and you are totally right. I clearly misinterpreted what I had been seeing for a long time. When you convince your brain of something, you can see what isn't there. Either making solid lines down the whole load or eliminating them would be better. If the load is permanently installed in the car one could use EZ line to model the cables. Thanks for watching and for this comment.
Well, I wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't grown up in a timber community and put myself through school working at a lumber yard. The only reason I even mentioned it is you go to such extraordinary lengths for accuracy in your models - it's inspiring. I thought you'd want to know. Sharing information makes us all better.
Keep doing what you do, it's very much appreciated.
Nice technique. One thing though, bulkhead flat car loads are always butted against the bulkheads, even if this results in a short gap in the middle of the car.
The size of the lumber orderd depends on the open space
Most company order more 14ft to 20ft lumber than the smaller size and alot of companys get to cars per order one all large size and one with mixed size.some customers only want the top layers of wood coverd and some want the wood coverd with sheets of plastic
that is an amazing idea.... with the well car containers couldn't you use a block of wood with those designs wrapped around them like you did with the lumber? I love watching your videos
Yes, you could probably do that and it would add some weight if you needed headed wait to those cars. Usually will cars are made from cast metal just for this reason, but if you needed to wait that would help.
Nice trick for lumber loads. You expressed concern about your loads falling off the car. This is also a concern for the prototype. The floor of the real cars tips inward slightly. Not sure if your models reflect this. You should check it out.
Yes, I am aware of that, and the better models do the same.
I have intermodal and gondola
I need some loads for iron coil cars
Where did you source the logo for the first load..Barrette? Got a link to a photo?
Hi Ron, your channel was recommended to me about 8 months ago, by friends that I think are mutual. Sorry it took so long! I'm barely getting back now, from a series of events that I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy....
Anyway, I see why you're recommended!! As an "Advanced" modeler, it's great to see projects beyond basic! 😵😎
I really like both of those loads, and can probably be convincing enough for HO Scale. I'm particularly impressed with the Lumber loads (modeling the PNW!). But I'm also interested in the Containers. I've got an Epson Photo printer, that can safely print directly onto up to .010" sheet styrene!! I'm thinking, for a larger scale, that might be the way to go for containers...
It's a bit funny though...... My short story is, I'm beyond dirt poor. Saving a good deal of money on containers will be awesome. However, I can't afford the CARS they run in!! 😭😕 Something I hadn't thought of, back when I *could* get them.
I have a freelance Railroad, set around 1979-82... Well Cars were in their infancy then, still in the prototype stage with the Espee. Therefore, I can only really get first-gen Well Cars, or figure out how to get them to mount on flats! 😛
Oh well, right? I definitely subscribed!! I have some catching up to do on your videos, so there may be a few comments tonight!! I'm intrigued by what you're doing, and can't wait to see more.
Carmine A 🚂
A quick note about the Lumber Loads...
I made something similar, about 15 years ago (and can GUARANTEE that they didn't turn out as good as yours!). They were a bit flimsy.
But, mounting system is worth noting - especially for guys in HO or O Scale. I mounted them to my Bulkhead Flats with a couple of small magnets, positioned so they fit between the ribs of the center support. It worked flawlessly - EVEN in a Club setting!!
Just my little tidbit, in case anyone wants to try it. 😋
+PacbeltRR Hi, Carmine. Thanks for your comment. Let me know if there are any topics that you would find useful and I will see what I can do about making a video. Glad to have you aboard.
+PacbeltRR That is a great idea. Thanks for sharing it.
Ron, I'm actually AMAZED! I've been on UA-cam since 2004, under 3 different channels.... How I hadn't heard of you until just last year, is staggering.
What would I like to see?? Well, I've been doing building interiors since long before it was cool.... I'd like to see your take on interiors. Also, maybe something study enough and easy enough to fit in and remove, loads for various open door Boxcar, as a point of interest, or even a way of enhancing operations!
I've still got more catching up to do, so you may see the odd comment on some older videos. 😋
Carmine 🚂
I love this video and have watched it several times. Maybe a stupid question, but wondering if you have a "magic" google search you use to find good photos of lumber loads? A lot of what I've been finding have been models, not prototype. Thanks Ron! Keep up the great work (both on the layout and with the videos)!
Hi, Matt. Glad you like the video. I love these loads myself. Great question. No magic search term, just lots of scrolling. Sites like railpictures.net and rrpicturearchives.net are very helpful.
hi Ron... nice job on the lumber loads... you know i just did a grain elevator with the name Palco... as far as the containers go those look like they were copied from a company called DigCom which you can buy from them directly ... thanks for sharing... vinny
Hi, Vinny. There a lot of similar container prints like these floating around. These I got from a German website about 12 years ago. That site no longer exists. There are TONS of them on Pinterest.
In my case Palco is Pacific Lumber Company, an actual lumber company out of CA.
Loved the video you put up today. That was awesome!
krafttrains.com also have a bunch available for free download.
+BNSF3012 Nscale Thanks for the info.
My 14 beer cars need loads....
great video, did you use regular paper, thanks for sharing.
CSX 8840 CSX Baltimore sub division I did use regular paper.
Ron. Would a coat of flat clear be needed to protect the ink from smearing? Have you tried a balsa wood block inside the containers? Nice presentation. Mike
+Mlke Simmons I have never tried the clear coat, concerned what it would do to ink from an inkjet printer. It might work fine, but I've never had much problem. Probably depends on how much the cars get handeled. I've not used balsa in the cargo containers, but that is a good idea, especially if using them in stacks or planning to make them permanant in trains. Even pine would be good there as it would add some weight to cars that are notoriously under weight.
Ron, I've used Testors Dull-Cote on several printed items.... Like cardstock tunnel liners, signs, and printed decals. I've had good success with all of it - as soon as I learned to WAIT at least 36-48 hours before painting! I have a good, Epson printer. I haven't tried it with others.
Just my 2 cents! 🚂
I've got Gondolas,Bulkhead Flat cars and Flatcars.All are Nscale.
Nice vid and great recording and sound. What camera do you use to record and pick up sound?
My video is shot with a Canon T6i DSLR and my audio in this case was captured with a Blue Snowball Ice mic plugged directly into my computer, captured and edited with Audacity.
Thank you
Can you please make this video for ho scale and use Georgia Pacific lumber logo and make it a full load please and thank you
Ron, I would love to build houses in N gauge from scratch, but how do you scale using an N gauge scale ?
+Rich H The short answer is to measure in inches and divide by 160. The easier answer is to buy a good ruler--get a steel one--with N scale measurements. Here is an affiliate link to one. amzn.to/2EHHhDk
Find Containers by DigCom Designs and give them a try. They mak all kinds of containers and more.
That is a great source. I just checked it out. I especially love the military tribe series they are advertising right now. The only drawback for me is these are for SALE and I was trying to show how to make them basically for free with available photos on the internet. I will bookmark this site, however, because they are making really nice designs. It may be a handy reference down the road.
Hi Ron what the name of the site to get lables for lumber loads, i having a hard time to finding it! (Eugene)
Send a request via email to ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com and I will send them to you in a reply.
What the name aplikasi in program
Suppose a modeler wanted to use his trains to propose to his girlfriend. Any tips on making a mount for the engagement ring to make it a "load" in either a gondola or open-top hopper?
Ron, can you send me a set of both lumber and well car loads as i don't have a printer any more as my cat distroyed the cables to it. thanks.
I'm not sure what you are asking. Do you want the files? I will gladly send them but you will need access to a printer to use them. Either way, please email me at ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com and let me know.
why not pass the balsa through either a fine or corse potato chipper to do same effect and staining the balsa to rep the type of wood being carted
+Jason howe You could certainly do that if you want to model unwrapped Lumber, but most Lumber that is hard these days comes wrapped in shrouds. That is the type of load I was going for here.
you could do it with plastic rap too..
though I thought looking at the detail in the time waste in what you did could of simplified the process you could of even wedged between the loads with match sticks to rep pallet
something to consider
+Jason howe I have seen others who make these loads individually and separate them with pallets separators. That could certainly be done, though it's easier in larger scales than in scale. I wouldn't rule it out and in scale, I just haven't tried it yet.
Good Stuff. But Don't they strap or chain the stacks of bundles to the car though? They can also be printed on the paper, or add them afterwords. Maybe N scale it won't be so noticeable?
Also, for those that don't have, or have access to publisher there is a great program out there for doing things like this. It's inexpensive as CAD goes, but you can download the trial version for free and just reinstall it every 45 days. The only difference between the purchased version and trial version is when you print you get the name of the program in the bottom left corner, which is rarely in the way of anything. I've been using this program for years and have upgraded when a new version comes out.
It's called DeltaCAD and their moto is The Easiest CAD Program, and it is. Once you download the trial version, install it and open the program click on the help tab and then tutorials. Choose the calculator tutorial and will learn just about everything in a short 20 to 30 minutes.
You can actually create your own library's of symbols which I have done for many things including track. You can copy any piece of track from any of the free versions of track planning software, and paste it right into DeltaCAD. Make sure the track is the correct size for the scale you put it in DeltaCAD, and create a symbol for it.
I actually use DeltaCAD for track plans. I find it very difficult to create bench work in the track planning software. It was way easier for me to create symbols of track pieces and do my track planning in DeltaCAD. It's only a 2D program so you won't have a 3D view, but it does have layers if you are doing multiple layer layouts.
When I had my Wood Shop I did all my designing and drawings using it. I do model rocketry and draw my scratch build rockets in it. I grab images off the internet for templates in leather crafting. I probably have more DeltaCAD files on my computer than anything else. It's just absolutely the only universal program I have found for taking things off the internet and putting them to use. If you choose to buy it, I think it's still is only $30. It was developed in the 1990's I believe and the guy who created it licensed it under Midnight Software.
Unlike the free track planning software where you only get 50 pieces of track to lay, you can grab all the track pieces you need out of them and make your own symbol libraries and lay endless amount of track...for free.
Just thought I would share that with everyone here on Ron's profession channel. Give a little something back and share.
Ron what do mean by $1 per post thanks Wendell
wendell camp That's supposed to be per month. I'll fix that forst thing tomorrow when at my computer again.
Or people can do a one-time thing through PayPal.me if they prefer, also linked in my description.
wendell camp i
The "per creation" mistake is fixed. It is "per month."
I run a variety of flatcars and gondolas i have loads for my wellcar but not my gondola
+csx68 midwest and western railroad I plan to do a couple videos in gondola loads in a few weeks this fall.
First!
+Amtrak642Railfan Productions lol, you like being first two see these videos don't you? 😂
Gondolas
Done.ua-cam.com/video/2QFiiUZlXI4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/oOO-IoTGSdo/v-deo.html
Nice video. What is your email?
ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com