I hope this video inspires you guys to have a crack at fixing something before just replacing it. There are almost an infinite number of ways to fix this stuff... What is your favorite?
one of my favorite "backing" materials is art clay (the kind that never hardens) - can shape it to what ever you want (exact size if you want) - then fill it with epoxy and let it dry 100%. If all the clay does not come off - it will with some paint thinner. Works great for odd shapes and is infinitely moldable - for exact restorations I can even carve in lettering or details that I would never be able to sand! Hope this motivates someone. It is really worth doing!
I do the same thing but I like to use shredded fiberglass instead. And instead of epoxy I use 2 part polyurethane (JB weld plastic bonder in fact). Bonds like crazy with zero peeling or delamination and the fiberglass makes it super strong and resilient.
Any type of cloth strengthen the repair a bunch. It ends up being a composite material. I used this technique to repair front fog lights mounts on a bmw. It stayed put for years and might still be. I sold the car since.
@@StevenBuchanan How do you embed the cloth or fiberglass ? Like mix it in with the epoxy ? Or, set it in after the epoxy is spread on, then pack in with toothpick ?
Done this a few times in the past. I usually use JB Weld. The embedded washer or paperclip trick is invaluable for additional strength on areas under a bit more stress. Another good video from you Charles.
The non English UA-cam vids where the mechanic is in sandals are the best. They fix old plastic all day. Work in well ventillated area. Plastic fumes are cancerous.
Hi Stephen, would you say it is a good idea to add some fiberglass to the epoxi? I plan to run those repairs in broken plastic in my car, thinking about making it super strong
ב''ה, all these tips, and for cracked surfaces, drilling some holes and tying them together with dental floss or other thin filament provides both the string reinforcement and 'pegs' of epoxy through the drilled holes. The quick version of JB Weld usually works better for me than the original, as might be stronger for certain mechanical repairs. It's more sandable than most other epoxies.
You are the MAN!!! I am restoring a 1995 Toyota pick up and parts are getting harder to find! I live in Arizona and the heat is breaking my plastic. I saw this video and fixed a lot of my broken plastic parts! It is time consuming but well worth it!!! Thank you so much my good man!
Watching this video I had a possibly brilliant or a really stupid idea. As a father I get to model stuff out of play dough way more often than I´d like but it seems like the perfect material to make an epoxy barrier out of.
Typically when making composites such as fiberglass/carbon fiber part we use Plasticine aka modeling clay, wax is a little better option. Playdoh would probably work except the moisture in it could mess with the final cure.
This is a great tip. I work with someone who broke her husband cosworths glove box hinge. In the end I 3d printed her another one after retaking measurements and remaking in cad.
@@HumbleMechanic Something to add reinforcement is model airplane fiberglass cloth. Its a very tight weave and is compatible with epoxy. You can get it at any place that sells R/C planes. I've used it a bunch of times to fix tabs.
I use the same process..but use flat Black paint made to paint dashboards, look up dashboard paint at your parts store..and hobby putty to form moulds instead of masking tape, I also use plastic repair epoxy in black because it's actually made for this specific purpose instead of clear epoxy ....but good job for your first attempt, not everyone researches existing methods before making a UA-cam video...I like that you use different products not fit for purpose for those of us that have no interest in doing it correctly....big thumbs up
I was looking for instruction for replacing my door pins. Found 3 that impressed me, so I was going to go with one of those. 2 days later yours showed up as "suggested", and it smoked the rest. Now I will be checking your channel first, before the rest! Good job!
This is a fantastic guide to OEM fixes. When I had a similar problem I didn't have the patience for this haha. I went the opposite route. I ended up drilling out the broken mounts, drilling out the remaining good mounts, and epoxying in little gusset/collar things. They were all uniform and slightly color coordinated with trim, so it was a fix with a modified instead of OEM aesthetic. I wish we had 3d printers back then, because nowadays you can print up a replacement mount with tabs to grip the host piece to help the epoxy and color coordinate with the trim and all that.
🟥 I usually use popsicle sticks, ( art supply,not post food) and sand on a belt sander to desired shape for applying glues or to form sandpaper around to desired shapes. Also, wax paper to make release mold backing etc.
I could've used this video 3 years ago when I made similar repairs to my glove box, before I discovered epoxy, but I'm still proud of my improvisation. But now that I HAVE seen this video, maybe I should go back and reinforce those repairs. Quarantine project!
Nicely explained. I've proven myself really good at breaking old plastic. A matching skill to repair those mistakes would complement well. Some guys use fillers, and they report success for building up a tab. Others swear by Q-bond, which comes with its own filler premixed. You did well without filler, and it turned out great. Love that paper clip idea.
I have used modeling clay to mold a good part, like the other good tab, then transfer the mold around the broken tab. This makes a perfect replica of the section that is missing...when the epoxy is cured you can just peel away the clay and you have the finished product...
I've used small pieces of an open weave cloth, a tee shirt, to reinforce open areas, making sure to get the cloth saturated with epoxy. You have to babysit it until the epoxy starts to set or it may sag, but after it sets it seems to be just as strong as the original part.
Another material to try is aluminum flashing metal; it can be made flat or shaped a bit, it is thin, and it is soft enough for easy drill penetration. With a washer, the hole in the washer has to be large enough to give some slop, and if not aligned nicely you might have to drill into some steel, and you are still left with the center of the drilled hole only being epoxy rather than being reinforced.
Nice video, once when I had to repair broken plastic I simply putted the parts together and melted the broken joint with an soldering iron, than with the parts in place I scuffed the rear and used a bit of fiber glass to reinforce.
What a great video! I have found that broken parts that have a structural role (meaning they broke because they are mechanically stressed) epoxy putty works best, this 2 part cylinder thats like play-doh and you mix it and it becomes rock hard. Example, broken headlight tabs.
Outstanding video. I used this method for my dash parts this past year. Glad to see so many other folks had the same idea and finally a video that really helps others.
I did this 4 years ago with Mk4 2.slow Jetta and more or less the exact same process. Included washers for strength the holes, but I used Q-bond. Still have the car and it still holding together... but hasn’t been drive as much (become the third car) - what I’m trying to say, is that it worked! All the best to anyone doing this process!
Literally just used JB weld with tooth picks as rebar to do some similar repairs to help fix up my friends 2 gen RAM. That is perhaps the most brittle dash ever made. Also if you don't wanna spend the money on a Dremel, harbor freight has super cheap under 10 dollar rotary tools. No where near as good of quality of a Dremel, but good enough for this.
Quicksteel, or other epoxy putty. Easy to shape. It's holding half my 80's GM interiors together. Can always add a layer of resin/epoxy/fiberglass over it.
My wife used a similar method to fix a unsightly crack under her sink unfortunately when I stood back up it caused alot of pain and discomfort but to this day she stands by her decision. And I have to give her credit its still holding up
Almost all the dash and console mounting tabs on my '03 Corvette began disintegrating. I generally used some sheet aluminum that I snipped to the rough shape and size, then pop riveted in place to the nearest solid area of plastic. Filled that in with JB Weld. If a screw went through the repair to attach, i drilled and added a washer for reinforcement. Great video, thanks.
Yep. It's a lot of work but it's so much better than having a broken plastic piece flopping around, and over time it's going to just get worse if you don't fix it. Good instructions. Good job.
This technique works great. Also, If you can find the broken pieces, use a solder iron with a flat blade to plastic weld them together, then epoxy over the repair for even more strength.
Great video. I used a similar method to repair the back of an interior body panel. I used window screen repair material to reinforce the crack. For a broken bumper panel I used the plastic of a ballpoint pen. Epoxy is great stuff.
Thank you for putting the time and effort into thinking of ways to fix and repair MKIV plastics. I'm now motivated to fix my glovebox and then some lol.
Lol i just used screws and washers and it looks good. If you use small washer it can get stuck on the inner wall of the hole so it looks nice. Big tip if you have broken securing point on the glove box fix them fast because it puts more stress on other securing points so they break faster.My car has a problem. It shakes a lot when it starts or when its slowing down, motor does sound wierd .Its mk4 1.9 tdi.tnx
Good job there Humble! I work at A car rental agency and I do A ton of this kinda stuff. Last week I rebuilt 3 mounting towers on A Camry headlamp ( new = $1,200. ). My favorite products are Gorilla glue and fiberglass fabric for large projects, and 2 part epoxy for the rest...............
I use the syringe method professionally almost once a week in the automotive field. Busted tabs, split engine covers, coil packs on Ford where the connector splits and Mr Customer won't budge lol lol. Awesome vid again, great advice! Ive had great results doing it like, indentically haha
Exactly the parts I need to fix. With exactly the kind of screwhole tab breaks I need to remold. Not to mention door pins I'm replacing with help from your other video. Thanks!!
Great video ! Additionally, if appearance matters, you can mix powdered pigment into the epoxy. Powdered tempera paint works well for this (make sure you get the powder, NOT the liquid paint). Black is readily available, and you only need a small amount of pigment. You can create any color you need with the correct pigment. Additional Tip: If your epoxy or resin has a short working time, measure out the two parts of the epoxy and keep them separated. Mix the pigment into the resin until you reach the color you want, then mix in the hardener. This is an advanced topic, outside of the scope of this video, but if you need to create a larger plastic piece, you can use polyester resin to cast it. Powdered pigments like tempera work with polyester resin too. If you have something plastic that breaks and you need a completely new piece, keep the broken parts, glue them back together as best as you can, sand all of the seams on the surface so that they're smooth, make a mold of the broken piece and then use that mold to cast a new one.
Great ideas. I like the idea of using a pigment powder rather than auto paint. Also, don't they sell black nail polish? Much easier to find than auto paint in such a small amount. I had to cast a small gear (and I mean small) that broke in a speedometer once. I pressed it into a bar of soap to make the mold and then dropped in the epoxy. My only complaint was it was too rubbery when finished. I don't think the mix was right. No idea other than that. This was before the advent of CA glues. I'm seeing a lot of CA glue and powder these days. What's your opinion on using that for all this repair. Seems to be catching on like crazy.
I keep several colors of tempera powder on hand because I always color my epoxy whenever I use it on anything, not just cars. If you've ever repaired ceramic or pottery, you know that the break lines are always visible, especially in lighter colors. Mix the epoxy to match and they are barely noticeable. It also allows you to fill chips and gaps with matching material. With patience, you can match the color of any automotive plastic. Use more or less powder to get the consistency you want to keep the epoxy from running. It works great for filling wide cracks on classic steering wheels.
Pretty cool video! If you can get your hands on some and want your pieces to be super strong, you can find small pieces of fiberglass sheet. Lay that over the empty spaces or form it to the shape and then cover it with epoxy. It will make your pieces even stronger. 👍🏼
I like using old cut up credit cards as epoxy mixers,it works really really good,then maybe apply with tooth picks or something like that. But the cards work great for applying certain things also
awesome tips and tricks on fixing these breaks. I have an older Toyota tundra that has various cracked pieces and i cannot buy new ones...just not available. Now i feel that I can do this! Thanks man! New sub
Repairing interior door latch molding for a 77 camaro , I used drywall fiberglass tape , closed weave not the one with square weave and pvc pipe glue. Worked great for fixing broken out screw hole. Just a daily driver not restored
One thing I would add - when using epoxy to build up parts, you can also add fillers like glass beads or fibers that will help fill gaps and provide more structure and strength. I get mine at WestMarine, but any boat supply or surfboard shop should have the stuff. For even larger repairs, you could also lay in glass cloth.
Awesome info. I bypassed a few plastic fixes by just finding newish better parts at a pick and pull yard. Did this exact method on my drivers door panel where the 3 mounting screws are at the bottom. Works great!
100% agree can u make it work … ehhh maybe but strength is usually gone and still looks bad unless u have hands of a surgeon’ every time I tried maybe 1/10 it’s successful with a plastic welder’ if plastic trim piece is 20-30$ hands down just buy it Or go to pick n pull’ If it’s a $300 part ….maybe try it but it will never look good’ when plastic breaks it is just so so hard to ever get it back’ That’s why adhesives that “weld” plastic back together r few and far between’ molecules in plastic don’t play well once tabs broken’ Honestly in my Experience listen to this guy in comment’ Go to a pick n pull’ u will save sooo much time by the time u buy all the little stuff sandpaper epoxy plastic Welder paint etc just buy a new piece and move onto something more important lol
I recently had to repair lots broken tabs on R1 motorcycle fairings and I used blue tack or plasticine to copy the more complicated mouldings. I pressed the product into the surviving tab and transferred it to the other side. Using all the same techniques as you did here. It worked great 👍 obviously in some instances things face a different direction so pay attention to that kind of thing.
Good stuff! I have a small break in the faux woodgrain panel just below the cluster in my 1990 Dodge B250 conversion van. It's one of those things where you can pop it back in and a slight crack is visible, but after a few miles on Pennsylvania minefields.. I mean cow paths.. No, ROADS. that's what they call those wavy, twisted, un-even, cratered surfaces.. "Roads". After a few miles on these "roads", the piece just pops loose again and sticks out about 1/8 of an inch. This looks like the method I need. Just V-groove the back of the break slightly then fill it in with some of this epoxy. May even use a bit of that plastic window screen for added support. As the repiar will be behind the panel, I won't care what it looks like as long as it's effective and no all too sloppy.
Good stuff, I use Knauf microglasfiber tape for reinforcing the place for small repair and regular glass fiber mesh for boat repair. Sometimes just pull some threads from the mesh and wrap around the part or build it up as I go, layer on layer. Also for smaller quick repairs, cianoacrilate glue and baking soda for filler and activation. Then sand, drill, body filler, paint and what ever one needs...
got some broken tabs in bike fairings my self. I tried the super glue + baking power, but the tabs were not very strong. Love the washer and paper clip idea and the 2 part epoxy. Thanks...
Great video - thank you. I bumped the garage side with my mirror and broke a couple tabs holding the turn signal. New part would be $100, complete assembly $125. I'm going to try your approach to repairing the tabs! Thanks for the info and for showing the glue to use. Plastic adhesion is tricky - good to know the best glue.
BTW - success! 2 tabs had broken off a turn indicator lens held as part of a door mirror. For sure the dealer would charge $300-400 and would have replaced the entire assembly. I did it for about $17 - 1 replacement plastic part that was too destroyed to reassemble and the 2 tabs successfully attached with the DAP Tank Bond per your instructions (scuff, clean with rubbing alcohol, mix epoxy - let it age 2-3 minutes then liberally apply and I manually held the parts for about 5 minutes and let them dry overnight. Thank you! Saved me $hundreds and saved needless landfill!
Great content! Tips: 1. Mix a little black (or other colour) laser printer toner to get black epoxy 2. Use a hair dryer on low heat to drive out air bubbles and get the epoxy to run into tight spaces fiber
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! Please don't stop posting ANYTHING that comes to mind about our beloved Mk4 R32's..no amount of information is too much. Cheers 👍
Neat ideas. I've repaired many plastic things by heating the tip of a screwdriver and then melting the parts together in a somewhat weaving manner. I liken it to welding. I might also add epoxy too.
I LOVE IT...I HAVE BEEN AN GLASS MASTER TECH FOR 40+ YEARS...I have had this very problem on auto glass repairs...out in the field places you into a panic...I carried an assortment of small screws and would hide those in an un noticeable spot...it got me out of jams while doing repairs...whew...2nd time I watched this very video!!!(3/15/21) I want to add...Baking soda and Super glue...will that work on this...THE PLASTIC IS HIGH IMPACT (PVC I tink) so I maybe I will experiment myself...gulp...ha...joking...let yah know...your method us best...SUPER GLUE AND BAKING SODA...REALLY QUICK...HARD TO CONTROL!!!
To repair a broken turning signal light plastic housing on my 86 Bronco I used the Oatley "All purpose cement" .It basically "welded" the parts together and the repaired housing looks like new...It also works great on repairing the plastic frame around headlights..
I like to use a two part solid putty that comes in a small tube. You just cut off the amount you need then mix it in your hand and mold it into the shape you need. Cures rock hard in a few minutes and can be sanded and drilled once cured. Not as messy as epoxy and will support weight. I've even cut threads into it! Love that stuff!
On the first broken part you have a great opportunity to make your repair almost exact. You can cast a mold of the other tab and use it to hold the epoxy instead of making a mold out of tape.
thanks for the video. the parts you've fixed were abs and abs polycarbonate plastics which works really well with some strong epoxy glues. I had a car trim that had a very-long guide pin. It got broken while disassembling. I tried to fix it but it was useless. because it was made up of polypropylene, none of the epoxy glues worked.
When I had broken fasteners to repair, I have glued hidden metal clip fasteners like the ones used to attach trim, armrests, etc. that have metal parts that can accommodate various threaded screws.
The magic of parchment paper. I’ve used it to make a custom-fit plastic bag from heavy-duty vapour barrier using a iron. Parchment paper between the hot iron and the plastic to be welded, and between the plastic and the ironing board.
When I bought my B5 Passat, the glove box door was in the back seat. The secure tabs were broken. I used some JB plastic weld and cardboard box to form new latches for a new box. After a couple days of curing and shaping, I now have an actual glovebox.
Plumbers putty works great to form epoxy dams, and fresh putty is sticky enough to use on a vertical surface. You can also use it to form an exact impression mold of an existing part. The putty has a slight oily texture and epoxy will not adhere or react to it. Putty is cheap and available anywhere that would sell the epoxy.
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I hope this video inspires you guys to have a crack at fixing something before just replacing it. There are almost an infinite number of ways to fix this stuff... What is your favorite?
Thanks for the tips , I've used fiberglass joint tape in the epoxy to make a permanent strong bond in the past using your method
Just plain old drywall joint tape . Easier to work with in my opinion, it doesn't fray at the edges as easily
@@danielbernier9115 I love that idea too!!
@@danielbernier9115 As I was editing I was wondering what would happen if I left the paper on.
@@HumbleMechanic thanks , saved my back side a few times lol keep up the Great content,Charles!
one of my favorite "backing" materials is art clay (the kind that never hardens) - can shape it to what ever you want (exact size if you want) - then fill it with epoxy and let it dry 100%. If all the clay does not come off - it will with some paint thinner. Works great for odd shapes and is infinitely moldable - for exact restorations I can even carve in lettering or details that I would never be able to sand! Hope this motivates someone. It is really worth doing!
Also, for crazy-strong repairs, embed fiberglass cloth into the repair.
I do the same thing but I like to use shredded fiberglass instead. And instead of epoxy I use 2 part polyurethane (JB weld plastic bonder in fact). Bonds like crazy with zero peeling or delamination and the fiberglass makes it super strong and resilient.
Any type of cloth strengthen the repair a bunch. It ends up being a composite material. I used this technique to repair front fog lights mounts on a bmw. It stayed put for years and might still be. I sold the car since.
I use carbon fibre (just don't breathe in dust from sanding!)
You literally read my mind...
@@StevenBuchanan How do you embed the cloth or fiberglass ? Like mix it in with the epoxy ? Or, set it in after the epoxy is spread on, then pack in with toothpick ?
Done this a few times in the past. I usually use JB Weld. The embedded washer or paperclip trick is invaluable for additional strength on areas under a bit more stress. Another good video from you Charles.
The non English UA-cam vids where the mechanic is in sandals are the best. They fix old plastic all day. Work in well ventillated area. Plastic fumes are cancerous.
Hi Stephen, would you say it is a good idea to add some fiberglass to the epoxi? I plan to run those repairs in broken plastic in my car, thinking about making it super strong
I use a small piece of stainless steel screen to support the epoxy across the crack
ב''ה, all these tips, and for cracked surfaces, drilling some holes and tying them together with dental floss or other thin filament provides both the string reinforcement and 'pegs' of epoxy through the drilled holes.
The quick version of JB Weld usually works better for me than the original, as might be stronger for certain mechanical repairs. It's more sandable than most other epoxies.
You are the MAN!!! I am restoring a 1995 Toyota pick up and parts are getting harder to find!
I live in Arizona and the heat is breaking my plastic. I saw this video and fixed a lot of my broken
plastic parts! It is time consuming but well worth it!!! Thank you so much my good man!
You can probably also use ear plugs that expand when you squeeze them. I use that when I want to mask off threads
I love those for that. I was worried about it sticking weird. I use them for paint all the time
Do an internet search for “plastic mold release agent” which you would apply to those ear plugs to get them to come loose without sticking.
Holy fuck, I'd have never thought of that. That's damn genius, I'mma do that a lot from now on for painting, thanks for that idea!
Excellant IDEA!!! BRILLIANT!!!
Watching this video I had a possibly brilliant or a really stupid idea. As a father I get to model stuff out of play dough way more often than I´d like but it seems like the perfect material to make an epoxy barrier out of.
Typically when making composites such as fiberglass/carbon fiber part we use Plasticine aka modeling clay, wax is a little better option. Playdoh would probably work except the moisture in it could mess with the final cure.
Maybe use the play dough to make a form of the good one and make a epoxy replica.
This is a great tip. I work with someone who broke her husband cosworths glove box hinge. In the end I 3d printed her another one after retaking measurements and remaking in cad.
I have an 01 Corvette and everything I seem to touch breaks. These type videos are interchangeable with any car, thanks!
That is how things seem to be going in my R32. UGH!
@@HumbleMechanic Something to add reinforcement is model airplane fiberglass cloth. Its a very tight weave and is compatible with epoxy. You can get it at any place that sells R/C planes. I've used it a bunch of times to fix tabs.
GM plastics hold up a tiny bit better. Looking for a candidate for a dash cluster repair, myself, but using a different and harder compound...
@@HouseCallAutoRepair bondo will be harder than epoxy, try that maybe
I used this method some time ago to fix interior broken door handles and a door latch cable end on my MK4. Worked perfectly :)
I use the same process..but use flat Black paint made to paint dashboards, look up dashboard paint at your parts store..and hobby putty to form moulds instead of masking tape, I also use plastic repair epoxy in black because it's actually made for this specific purpose instead of clear epoxy ....but good job for your first attempt, not everyone researches existing methods before making a UA-cam video...I like that you use different products not fit for purpose for those of us that have no interest in doing it correctly....big thumbs up
Perfect timing for this video... extremely relevant to my weekend project.
Charles.... You're so much more than just a mechanic. Jack of all trades.👍
I was looking for instruction for replacing my door pins. Found 3 that impressed me, so I was going to go with one of those. 2 days later yours showed up as "suggested", and it smoked the rest. Now I will be checking your channel first, before the rest! Good job!
This is a fantastic guide to OEM fixes. When I had a similar problem I didn't have the patience for this haha. I went the opposite route. I ended up drilling out the broken mounts, drilling out the remaining good mounts, and epoxying in little gusset/collar things. They were all uniform and slightly color coordinated with trim, so it was a fix with a modified instead of OEM aesthetic. I wish we had 3d printers back then, because nowadays you can print up a replacement mount with tabs to grip the host piece to help the epoxy and color coordinate with the trim and all that.
🟥 I usually use popsicle sticks, ( art supply,not post food) and sand on a belt sander to desired shape for applying glues or to form sandpaper around to desired shapes. Also, wax paper to make release mold backing etc.
Oh that’s a good idea!
I could've used this video 3 years ago when I made similar repairs to my glove box, before I discovered epoxy, but I'm still proud of my improvisation.
But now that I HAVE seen this video, maybe I should go back and reinforce those repairs. Quarantine project!
Nicely explained. I've proven myself really good at breaking old plastic. A matching skill to repair those mistakes would complement well. Some guys use fillers, and they report success for building up a tab. Others swear by Q-bond, which comes with its own filler premixed. You did well without filler, and it turned out great. Love that paper clip idea.
I have used modeling clay to mold a good part, like the other good tab, then transfer the mold around the broken tab. This makes a perfect replica of the section that is missing...when the epoxy is cured you can just peel away the clay and you have the finished product...
That’s awesome
But modeling clay usually has some oily content that would likely prevent the epoxy from sticking.
@@donsmith9478 Right.
I've used small pieces of an open weave cloth, a tee shirt, to reinforce open areas, making sure to get the cloth saturated with epoxy. You have to babysit it until the epoxy starts to set or it may sag, but after it sets it seems to be just as strong as the original part.
gentle heat gun will accelerate the chemical process
Another material to try is aluminum flashing metal; it can be made flat or shaped a bit, it is thin, and it is soft enough for easy drill penetration. With a washer, the hole in the washer has to be large enough to give some slop, and if not aligned nicely you might have to drill into some steel, and you are still left with the center of the drilled hole only being epoxy rather than being reinforced.
Nice video, once when I had to repair broken plastic I simply putted the parts together and melted the broken joint with an soldering iron, than with the parts in place I scuffed the rear and used a bit of fiber glass to reinforce.
Can we just appreciate the fact that this channel is the only channel with quality information on the Mk4 platform
This is one of the most useful videos I've ever seen on UA-cam. Thanks for showing and explaining so thoroughly, sir!
Hi Aaron I think you'll do better on UA-cam than on TV. Great to have you back!!!
What a great video! I have found that broken parts that have a structural role (meaning they broke because they are mechanically stressed) epoxy putty works best, this 2 part cylinder thats like play-doh and you mix it and it becomes rock hard. Example, broken headlight tabs.
I saw a dude fix a big hole in a transmission with that. Haha
@@HumbleMechanic lol
Yup...most plastic today is for install quickly...try to get it undone with no damage...this repair is BRILLIANT!!!
Instead of parchment paper, I use wax paper, same result (cheaper too). Great repair ideas. Well done.
Outstanding video. I used this method for my dash parts this past year. Glad to see so many other folks had the same idea and finally a video that really helps others.
I did this 4 years ago with Mk4 2.slow Jetta and more or less the exact same process. Included washers for strength the holes, but I used Q-bond. Still have the car and it still holding together... but hasn’t been drive as much (become the third car) - what I’m trying to say, is that it worked! All the best to anyone doing this process!
Literally just used JB weld with tooth picks as rebar to do some similar repairs to help fix up my friends 2 gen RAM. That is perhaps the most brittle dash ever made. Also if you don't wanna spend the money on a Dremel, harbor freight has super cheap under 10 dollar rotary tools. No where near as good of quality of a Dremel, but good enough for this.
I used the washer and epoxy trick to fix my microwave/range hood a few months back. Worked like a charm! Great video as always!
One great tip instead of using masking tape for the tab dam, use foil tape. It makes holding the shape desired a lot easier.
And the foil can be left hidden in back to help reinforce if desired.
Yep beat me to it
Quicksteel, or other epoxy putty. Easy to shape. It's holding half my 80's GM interiors together. Can always add a layer of resin/epoxy/fiberglass over it.
Picked up snapons plastic welder, best purchase Ive made in a long time!
My wife used a similar method to fix a unsightly crack under her sink unfortunately when I stood back up it caused alot of pain and discomfort but to this day she stands by her decision. And I have to give her credit its still holding up
Almost all the dash and console mounting tabs on my '03 Corvette began disintegrating. I generally used some sheet aluminum that I snipped to the rough shape and size, then pop riveted in place to the nearest solid area of plastic. Filled that in with JB Weld. If a screw went through the repair to attach, i drilled and added a washer for reinforcement. Great video, thanks.
use coarse file, filling same or close material, mix in the filed dust with the epoxy, very strong.
It's simple and easy to get these materials, good job.
Yep. It's a lot of work but it's so much better than having a broken plastic piece flopping around, and over time it's going to just get worse if you don't fix it. Good instructions. Good job.
This technique works great.
Also, If you can find the broken pieces, use a solder iron with a flat blade to plastic weld them together, then epoxy over the repair for even more strength.
You pack a lot of intelligent tips and tricks into the shortest time possible, and make it all very user friendly. You're the best Charles!💪
amazing job. the best repair video i've watched in a while. thanks!
I could teach you a lot about plastics and composites. But your work is decent and it works so that’s what matters.
Designing and 3d printing plastic tabs and clips to epoxy onto expensive trim is a game changer
Great video. I used a similar method to repair the back of an interior body panel. I used window screen repair material to reinforce the crack. For a broken bumper panel I used the plastic of a ballpoint pen. Epoxy is great stuff.
I really like the paper clip to reinforce the job. I'm sure it would work on so many other projects. Thanks again, brill.
I love the idea with the paper clip to reinforce the flange you have repaired
Thank you for putting the time and effort into thinking of ways to fix and repair MKIV plastics. I'm now motivated to fix my glovebox and then some lol.
Fantastic, a really good repair. This sort of thing makes me want to drive old cars.
Lol i just used screws and washers and it looks good. If you use small washer it can get stuck on the inner wall of the hole so it looks nice. Big tip if you have broken securing point on the glove box fix them fast because it puts more stress on other securing points so they break faster.My car has a problem. It shakes a lot when it starts or when its slowing down, motor does sound wierd .Its mk4 1.9 tdi.tnx
Good job there Humble! I work at A car rental agency and I do A ton of this kinda stuff. Last week I rebuilt 3 mounting towers on A Camry headlamp ( new = $1,200. ). My favorite products are Gorilla glue and fiberglass fabric for large projects, and 2 part epoxy for the rest...............
Good work, Plastic repair is the pits.The paperclip and washer are great for added strength. I appreciate your help.
I use the syringe method professionally almost once a week in the automotive field. Busted tabs, split engine covers, coil packs on Ford where the connector splits and Mr Customer won't budge lol lol. Awesome vid again, great advice! Ive had great results doing it like, indentically haha
Exactly the parts I need to fix. With exactly the kind of screwhole tab breaks I need to remold. Not to mention door pins I'm replacing with help from your other video. Thanks!!
Great video !
Additionally, if appearance matters, you can mix powdered pigment into the epoxy. Powdered tempera paint works well for this (make sure you get the powder, NOT the liquid paint). Black is readily available, and you only need a small amount of pigment. You can create any color you need with the correct pigment.
Additional Tip: If your epoxy or resin has a short working time, measure out the two parts of the epoxy and keep them separated. Mix the pigment into the resin until you reach the color you want, then mix in the hardener.
This is an advanced topic, outside of the scope of this video, but if you need to create a larger plastic piece, you can use polyester resin to cast it. Powdered pigments like tempera work with polyester resin too. If you have something plastic that breaks and you need a completely new piece, keep the broken parts, glue them back together as best as you can, sand all of the seams on the surface so that they're smooth, make a mold of the broken piece and then use that mold to cast a new one.
Great ideas. I like the idea of using a pigment powder rather than auto paint. Also, don't they sell black nail polish? Much easier to find than auto paint in such a small amount.
I had to cast a small gear (and I mean small) that broke in a speedometer once. I pressed it into a bar of soap to make the mold and then dropped in the epoxy. My only complaint was it was too rubbery when finished. I don't think the mix was right. No idea other than that. This was before the advent of CA glues.
I'm seeing a lot of CA glue and powder these days. What's your opinion on using that for all this repair. Seems to be catching on like crazy.
I keep several colors of tempera powder on hand because I always color my epoxy whenever I use it on anything, not just cars. If you've ever repaired ceramic or pottery, you know that the break lines are always visible, especially in lighter colors. Mix the epoxy to match and they are barely noticeable. It also allows you to fill chips and gaps with matching material. With patience, you can match the color of any automotive plastic. Use more or less powder to get the consistency you want to keep the epoxy from running. It works great for filling wide cracks on classic steering wheels.
Pretty cool video! If you can get your hands on some and want your pieces to be super strong, you can find small pieces of fiberglass sheet. Lay that over the empty spaces or form it to the shape and then cover it with epoxy. It will make your pieces even stronger. 👍🏼
The applications for this video are almost endless... Never again will I be beaten by broken plastic pieces.
Very helpful. Going to use these ideas to fix a couple tabs on my grill.
I like using old cut up credit cards as epoxy mixers,it works really really good,then maybe apply with tooth picks or something like that. But the cards work great for applying certain things also
Works for cocaine too
@@gplusgplus2286 meth also,lol
Awesome video!! Have a bunch of broken plastic on my 1996 Mustang Cobra. Knew there had to be a way to fix it. Thanks for the help!!
awesome tips and tricks on fixing these breaks. I have an older Toyota tundra that has various cracked pieces and i cannot buy new ones...just not available. Now i feel that I can do this! Thanks man! New sub
Beautiful examples on the repairs, but with so many broken pieces, I'd have gone to a salvage yard, lol. Nice job!
How have I lived this long without a digital caliper I always saw I need one I’m ordering one now 👍
thankyou so much for taking the time to make this video this was a tremendous help!
Repairing interior door latch molding for a 77 camaro , I used drywall fiberglass tape , closed weave not the one with square weave and pvc pipe glue. Worked great for fixing broken out screw hole. Just a daily driver not restored
Hey there... I really appreciate how you take the time to explain everything in such great detail... Awesome job!
Thanks so much
One thing I would add - when using epoxy to build up parts, you can also add fillers like glass beads or fibers that will help fill gaps and provide more structure and strength. I get mine at WestMarine, but any boat supply or surfboard shop should have the stuff. For even larger repairs, you could also lay in glass cloth.
That’s an awesome idea
You can also use saw dust or dried leaves
Really well done video. Your newest work truly is some of your best.
Awesome info. I bypassed a few plastic fixes by just finding newish better parts at a pick and pull yard. Did this exact method on my drivers door panel where the 3 mounting screws are at the bottom. Works great!
100% agree can u make it work … ehhh maybe but strength is usually gone and still looks bad unless u have hands of a surgeon’ every time I tried maybe 1/10 it’s successful with a plastic welder’ if plastic trim piece is 20-30$ hands down just buy it
Or go to pick n pull’
If it’s a $300 part ….maybe try it but it will never look good’ when plastic breaks it is just so so hard to ever get it back’
That’s why adhesives that “weld” plastic back together r few and far between’ molecules in plastic don’t play well once tabs broken’
Honestly in my
Experience listen to this guy in comment’
Go to a pick n pull’ u will save sooo much time by the time u buy all the little stuff sandpaper epoxy plastic Welder paint etc just buy a new piece and move onto something more important lol
I recently had to repair lots broken tabs on R1 motorcycle fairings and I used blue tack or plasticine to copy the more complicated mouldings. I pressed the product into the surviving tab and transferred it to the other side. Using all the same techniques as you did here. It worked great 👍 obviously in some instances things face a different direction so pay attention to that kind of thing.
Good stuff! I have a small break in the faux woodgrain panel just below the cluster in my 1990 Dodge B250 conversion van. It's one of those things where you can pop it back in and a slight crack is visible, but after a few miles on Pennsylvania minefields.. I mean cow paths.. No, ROADS. that's what they call those wavy, twisted, un-even, cratered surfaces.. "Roads". After a few miles on these "roads", the piece just pops loose again and sticks out about 1/8 of an inch.
This looks like the method I need. Just V-groove the back of the break slightly then fill it in with some of this epoxy. May even use a bit of that plastic window screen for added support. As the repiar will be behind the panel, I won't care what it looks like as long as it's effective and no all too sloppy.
Good stuff, I use Knauf microglasfiber tape for reinforcing the place for small repair and regular glass fiber mesh for boat repair. Sometimes just pull some threads from the mesh and wrap around the part or build it up as I go, layer on layer. Also for smaller quick repairs, cianoacrilate glue and baking soda for filler and activation. Then sand, drill, body filler, paint and what ever one needs...
Totally much respect for your skills and innovation, keep it up!.
I didn't have a torch so I used a Bic lighter. Thank you for making this so simple and using stuff that we probably have at home.
got some broken tabs in bike fairings my self. I tried the super glue + baking power, but the tabs were not very strong. Love the washer and paper clip idea and the 2 part epoxy. Thanks...
Window screen or drywall mesh tape for structural/shaping
Great video - thank you. I bumped the garage side with my mirror and broke a couple tabs holding the turn signal. New part would be $100, complete assembly $125. I'm going to try your approach to repairing the tabs! Thanks for the info and for showing the glue to use. Plastic adhesion is tricky - good to know the best glue.
BTW - success! 2 tabs had broken off a turn indicator lens held as part of a door mirror. For sure the dealer would charge $300-400 and would have replaced the entire assembly. I did it for about $17 - 1 replacement plastic part that was too destroyed to reassemble and the 2 tabs successfully attached with the DAP Tank Bond per your instructions (scuff, clean with rubbing alcohol, mix epoxy - let it age 2-3 minutes then liberally apply and I manually held the parts for about 5 minutes and let them dry overnight. Thank you! Saved me $hundreds and saved needless landfill!
Great content!
Tips:
1. Mix a little black (or other colour) laser printer toner to get black epoxy
2. Use a hair dryer on low heat to drive out air bubbles and get the epoxy to run into tight spaces
fiber
I do similar stuff my self. With my vehicles This was awsome because I learned extra tricks for repairs thanks.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! Please don't stop posting ANYTHING that comes to mind about our beloved Mk4 R32's..no amount of information is too much. Cheers 👍
Thanks for great tips for us backyard mechanics on a budget...🧔
As the owner of a 90s Japanese tin can, this video is a godsend. Thank you Charles.
I really enjoyed these ideas. Thanks Charles.🙂
Neat ideas. I've repaired many plastic things by heating the tip of a screwdriver and then melting the parts together in a somewhat weaving manner. I liken it to welding. I might also add epoxy too.
Perfect timing I need to fix lots of broken fixings.
I LOVE IT...I HAVE BEEN AN GLASS MASTER TECH FOR 40+ YEARS...I have had this very problem on auto glass repairs...out in the field places you into a panic...I carried an assortment of small screws and would hide those in an un noticeable spot...it got me out of jams while doing repairs...whew...2nd time I watched this very video!!!(3/15/21) I want to add...Baking soda and Super glue...will that work on this...THE PLASTIC IS HIGH IMPACT (PVC I tink) so I maybe I will experiment myself...gulp...ha...joking...let yah know...your method us best...SUPER GLUE AND BAKING SODA...REALLY QUICK...HARD TO CONTROL!!!
To repair a broken turning signal light plastic housing on my 86 Bronco I used the Oatley "All purpose cement" .It basically "welded" the parts together and the repaired housing looks like new...It also works great on repairing the plastic frame around headlights..
I like to use a two part solid putty that comes in a small tube. You just cut off the amount you need then mix it in your hand and mold it into the shape you need. Cures rock hard in a few minutes and can be sanded and drilled once cured. Not as messy as epoxy and will support weight. I've even cut threads into it! Love that stuff!
I like that stuff too. I always forget to properly wrap it back up and it gets all weird. HAHA totally a me issue
I knew you were sponsored by DAP as soon as I saw it, because there ain't nothing better than JB Weld....
On the first broken part you have a great opportunity to make your repair almost exact. You can cast a mold of the other tab and use it to hold the epoxy instead of making a mold out of tape.
Purdy cool. I have some of this kind-a work to do on a 1998 dodge B-350 van restoration.
TKS for the knowledge.
Metal screen works good also for sturdy matrix that can be put on in layers.
That’s a great idea!
thanks for the video. the parts you've fixed were abs and abs polycarbonate plastics which works really well with some strong epoxy glues. I had a car trim that had a very-long guide pin. It got broken while disassembling. I tried to fix it but it was useless. because it was made up of polypropylene, none of the epoxy glues worked.
How can a person know if it's ABS?
@@davidbutler1825 it is written somewhere on the material. Sometimes it is written in a triangle with arrows.
@@heysamtek thank you! I will look for that.
When I had broken fasteners to repair, I have glued hidden metal clip fasteners like the ones used to attach trim, armrests, etc. that have metal parts that can accommodate various threaded screws.
The magic of parchment paper. I’ve used it to make a custom-fit plastic bag from heavy-duty vapour barrier using a iron. Parchment paper between the hot iron and the plastic to be welded, and between the plastic and the ironing board.
Nice!!! I tired like 5 things and that’s what worked best. Pretty cool stuff
When I bought my B5 Passat, the glove box door was in the back seat. The secure tabs were broken. I used some JB plastic weld and cardboard box to form new latches for a new box. After a couple days of curing and shaping, I now have an actual glovebox.
This comes really useful, i just broke my saabs glovebox!
wish there was someone like you available to send my 2002 VW Bug glove box to for repair.
Plumbers putty works great to form epoxy dams, and fresh putty is sticky enough to use on a vertical surface. You can also use it to form an exact impression mold of an existing part. The putty has a slight oily texture and epoxy will not adhere or react to it. Putty is cheap and available anywhere that would sell the epoxy.
Charles, your skills are unmatched my man! Love your stuff!