NO KIDDING! He’s actually caused me to change brands on a few things I’d used for years. It’s funny how advertisers quit marketing to people above 35 or 40, since we’ve normally found out stuff and dont change brands. WRONG! Project Farm is better than Consumer Reports to me. This is a real world test, in metrics us folk that use things actually apply things and can see things in our normal daily life.
Here to find out what will stick my sisters car seat handle so it will let the seat back move so she can get in the back of her car from the passenger side as right now part of it is broken so it won’t pull the cable to release it.
Interesting test. A couple points to consider: This is for one specific type of plastic (nylon?) bonded to steel. There are several other types us folks who repair our own or other cars also see: styrene, polystyrene, polypropylene, various types of polyelthylene (HDPE, LDPE, PET), polyamide. Would be very interesting to see the results with each plastic type as they all have different properties. How about the plastic bonded to itself for each type, such as when the home mechanic attempts to repair a plastic part? Often this is the only recourse, as folks like myself encounter broken plastic parts and replacements are not available. I rarely need to bond plastic to metal, but plastic to itself is of great interest. I look forward to seeing such a review from you!
I was going to chime in here and say that nylon is way different from most of the plastics I deal with. It would be interesting to use non-nylon in some tests. Also plastic 2 plastic would be really interesting.
I'm in a real bind, broke an expensive plastic interior piece on a car... I can't tell you the feeling of happiness and relief when I see project farm did reviews on products I need. So thankful. Made my day.
Thank you all for continuing to provide future video ideas! Here are the links to the products tested in the video. Highly recommend shopping around for the best price. Best regards, Todd Gorilla Clear Weld: amzn.to/2Ynh3AX JB Weld Original: amzn.to/3j2SlxO JB Weld Plastic Bonder: amzn.to/3jaihHJ Loctite Ultra Gel Control: amzn.to/3hmyk4Z Super Glue Plastic Fusion: amzn.to/32kp5vR
it would be great if you tested how well they bonded to one another, and then done the subsequent tests. Id love to see gorilla on the bolt and jb weld on the metal. There is a dozen variables you could explore, regarding the curing times and which is bonding to which, etc.. love your channel. top notch!
I was watching super glue and mixing baking soda with it. Even ash's and super glue. Amazing results! So what super glue mixes with a control using different ash/soda's. Strongest to hold weight, how they cut, sand. The other variable is using release agents. I have seen grease, wd-40, motor oil, or aluminum tape and masking tape. Long time sub. Hope you at least see this??
Can we recreate this test? Maybe test to see how they do when they are below freezing temperatures. Test when they are welded to themselves. Or any other test that you can think of.
Thank you for you videos!! Whenever I want something compared Project Farms is always my go-to. Also the fact that you are replying to comments for a video that is 5 years old.....that's next level!
This review saved me about $1,000! Based on your tests I got the Loctite to fix a broken door handle on a high-end GE microwave. The handle had snapped off in a weird way because the screw fittings are all plastic. I think the flex test is the one that convinced me, based on pull and shear from normal usage. Found out this is a common breakage complaint with our model. Can’t just buy the handle without taking the door entirely apart and requiring some radiation testing above my pay grade. One week after application and a 24 hour cure, and it is still holding like it was never broken! And I’m a hero in the home! Thanks again!
@@rickc303 I am talking about microwave leakage if the door is incorrectly resealed. The entire door assembly and internal seals to the door would have to be removed to replace the handle the way it is constructed. It’s right there in the documentation.
Original J.B. Weld never ceases to amaze. It's the only one that I have had any real experience with (once I needed something to be clear in color and tried some generic 5-min stuff other than that I think it's always been j.b. weld) and I kind of felt myself rooting for it to outperform the others. Based on my past experience & your tests I think it's safe to conclude that you can't go wrong with regular 'ole J.B. Weld.... Next they need to figure out how to make it clear in color. Then there is absolutely no use for anything else. Great video, going to save me from reading the backs of 50 different epoxy packages just to choose J.B. Weld in the end anyway because there is too many choices and variants. Plastic specific epoxy seems like a gimmick when something made for steel outperforms them on plastic. Thanks for simplifying my life just a tad bit...
Thank you very much for the positive comment! All of the clear epoxies seem to have a similar smell, which is much different than the epoxies with colors. I wish they could make a JB Weld formula that was clear and as good as the original.
Spectt84 They do now have a clear formulation. So far, so good on plastic to plastic, but it is not all that right an application I am using it for, but others did fail.
Honestly i think this video gives you more than whats the best single product, its more of the correct application for the specific use of the products tested. I love both loctite and jb weld, but knowing what to use in each application is the most important thing.
You have tested steel to steel , plastic to steel , BUT , have you done plastic to plastic? That is the one I'm Really curious about. ...... point out if you have done plastic to plastic , I might be over looking it. Thanks
I wanted to see you do THIS very project and requested it in the past, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the incredible work you do and for always being so logical, thorough and unbiased in all of your project setups, testing protocols and final analyses! I am a huge nerd who loves to learn but does not have the means, nor your degree of expertise, to perform ALL of the various product comparisons I've always wanted to do in order to work smarter--not harder. It is for this reason that your channel and the almost unbelievable plethora of project farm head-to-head tests / comparisons make my life so much easier. Without your high integrity testing methodology and truly unbiased approach, I'd be forced to rely on far more subjective "reviews" (too many of which shill for a particular brand unbeknownst to the consumer), or I'd have to accept the fact that many of my projects would quite likely have a higher degree of inherent failures due to lack of real-world data points from which to extrapolate the BEST or MOST SUITABLE product to meet my unique needs. Again.....working smarter, rather that harder, means I don't want to have rework, especially if it occurs multiple times for something that could have been avoided had I done sufficient research or had access to the kind of unbiased, side-by-side, practical comparisons that not only provide a simple excel-type table or spreadsheet of relevant specs & data points, but I have the advantage of being able to be a fly on the wall in your shop and to soak in the knowledge as I have time and need. One great thing that I've discovered over time by watching numerous head-to-head roundups here is that in nearly every case where I've performed similar tests--often ritualistic and very OCD-like tests to help me get over my anxiety & worry of choosing the wrong product for a task--or by trial and error I've learned volumes on what DOESN'T work, I find incredible comfort and satisfaction in discovering that YOUR TESTS SO OFTEN CORRELATE WITH MY REAL-WORLD FINDINGS. That has provided me a good measure of faith & trust in my own abilities to make accurate assessments and to logically discern the critical information necessary from so much of my everyday life; whatever the days bring my way and what will be next on my list of repairs, maintenance and upgrades to home, auto & tech! I know that's a LOT to read, but it is sincere and from the heart, thus I believe it carries more weight than a mere "thank you," even if that expression of gratitude is in ALL CAPS. LOL Again....I hope it is truly fulfilling for you knowing that you help so many through your work here on the channel. I realize this is NOT easy, nor cheap to pull off. Hell, the video editing skills alone are worth their weight in gold and I wish I could pick your brain on that subject as well. Happiest holidays to you and yours. Namaste. Cheers!
This is a great point. I plan to test plastic on plastic soon. Are there a few plastic glues or epoxies that you recommend I test? I'd like to stay with the consumer price range if possible. Most people aren't willing to spend $30+ on a plastic repair.
PF....I can't off hand think of any specific plastic epoxies but I have used JB Weld Original with fiberglass mat to join broken motorcycle plastics together with great success.
It makes a big difference on which type of plastic you are trying to bond with. The different polyethylene types, polypropylene, polystyrene, and PVC all need different bonding agents to make a successful plastic weld. Picking up a regular off the shelf epoxy from a hardware store is asking for bond fail. Thanks for the video!
Any tips on what kind to use for a car door handle? I would be "gluing" the front plastic piece onto, another piece of 3/4 inch corner mold. I could buy the corner mold in a specific type of plastic when I go to buy it.Then the other side of the corner mold will be glued onto the part of the door handle that remains on the car. This is one of those pull upward door handles. Thanks for any ideas.
Excellent stress test. You are the Consumer Reports of adhesive products. Its the best mechanical adhesion bond testing I've seen. Thanks so much. Keep-up the great work for us tinkerer/DIY/Maker Fair community.
Do so appreciate your taking the time and effort in testing so many products for us. I can see that you go out of your way to make these tests as accate and honest as you possibly can. THANK YOU!
Brother I hate to break it to you, but UA-camrs like this are doing it for the paychecks. Don’t get me wrong, his content is good, but trust me me, his motive for making these isn’t philanthropic lol
Thanks for putting all the time and effort into these tests so we don't have to. It is impossible to tell the difference between advertising and truthful claims without real tests like these. I really like how consistent you try to keep your tests. Keep the videos coming.
I don't think he said, I watched the beginning again and the text just said "plastic bolts". It's a great question though, especially since some plastics are harder to glue and are more chemically resistant. I'd be interested in the answer.
Speaking as a person who has actually designed research projects, I must say that your experimental designs are very well thought out! You put a lot of effort into minimizing extraneous variables. Gluing plastic is almost always problematic for me. Nylon is naturally "lubed" so especially tough. Same with polyethylene. Not much sticks to it, except labels when you want to remove them.... If I can, I will do bizarre surface preps like cutting holes or slots, sanding etc, and if using a suitable glue, I'll overglue to embed the parts in a blob of the epoxy. If faced with butt-gluing small plastic bits, I usually don't even try.
yep i would agree some plastics are made so nothing sticks to them very well, using a solder gun to melt some metal to them and then glueing that would probably work
Am I the only 1 that walks into his shop and notices I've got the worst types on the shelf and just throw it away and buy only what I learn from this channel now!! Thanks projectfarm
8 months back it was mentioned that it would be better to also test plastic to plastic. In your Super Glue testing you did test plastic to plastic using PVC pipe. It would be real interesting to see how these would do with a plastic to plastic test.
I was getting ready to fix my the plastic gas tank on my lawn mower. I have lots of small tubes of jb weld. It's not that I intended to buy multiple tubes. It's that I cleaned up my garage recently and found them everywhere. I was going to head out and buy a tube of jb weld for plastic to add to the pile. Thanks to your test, I will just give good old gray a try.
Same here my friend when I need JB weld I just go looking around my house or garage and find plenty of tubes of it long time user of the product even used it on a engine plug on a car in 1984 sold the car 3yrs later no problem plug coming out
What a crazy test because I tried J-B weld original to fix the top corner of a plastic radiator and it cracked again. After cleaning and sanding again, I used super glue and baking soda on the radiator on day two and the radiator did not crack on the way home from work this time.
Would be an interesting test, though we use what might be better called a solvent for such things, such as WeldOn 4. In the end, using it, two pieces look like one and are welded together.
@@ADefenestrator but interestingly enough all over the internet you see mainly people trying to glue broken plastic parts back together and having very low success rate. welding doesn't really help if you don't have the same material to use as a filler to weld the 2 broken parts, because if you weld plastic you melt a lot of it on the contact, and where you can't spare those 1-2mm of material to melt away.....you are just stuck(and not in the good bond success way :) ). and most people just have problems gluing plastic to plastic, so i'd say this would be even more interesting than just trying plastic to metal or other materials. you can clearly see also in this video that it's the plastic which presents issues for all glues to bond to it
this is one of the best diy channels on UA-cam. Thank you for your time and energy. I hope it gets huge because People can learn a lot from these tests.
Very interesting results, thank you for doing these videos - I've been keeping a log of the "winners (or ties)" regarding the different tests that you have done for different circumstances and it's a sincere pleasure to see the real deal without having to guess while standing in the aisles.
I thoroughly agree with people who requested that you do this test with various kinds of plastic, not just nylon. I'm particularly interested in the best way to glue metal to expanded PVC sheets. Thanks for your very informative videos!
how often would a person have need to glue plastic to steel? more of a case or need to bond plastic to MORE PLASTIC of the same nature unto (on onto) itself me thinks.
Came across this video for this exact reason. Broke an RC helicopter landing gear leg and was curious what the best plastic to plastic adhesive was. Still a great video though! Would have liked to see Devcon plastic steel too although. 👍👍
The best for plastic-to-plastic WAS Devcon MVP 33. It was so good, they stopped making it. The next best was Devcon Plastic Welder. ALL the other so called "plastic welders" are not nearly as good. These conclusions result from trying many products over many years. "Crazy glues" might grip great at first, but, in my experience, they do not hold up over time.
Great video as always. Part of the problem may lie in the type of plastic used to make those bolts. Delrin, Acetal, and Nylon 66 are examples of Copolymer and Homopolymer's that leach oils. There is a high probability that those bolts had lubricants added to them to provide lubricity to reduce friction, heat and to prevent galling when tightening on the matching nuts. These types of plastics leach oils and can prevent glues and paints from sticking to them.
If it fails on the plastic side, which almost all of them did, then there is no benefit of doing plastic on plastic - you already know the failure point.
The Loctite was quite impressive. The bolts you used are nylon, each plastic has profound differences in how they perform and react to things. Here's a tip taught to me by an old-school mold guy. Take a piece of known plastic and light it on fire (all you need is a sliver) Blow it out and sniff the smoke. NO TWO PLASTICS SMELL ALIKE and the smell is so strong you'll never forget it. All ethylene family plastics give off oils, To bond to them ya gotta remove the oils and since there's always more trying to come out it is a really improbable proposition. We used to use E-Beam Rastering to flash off the oil with some success. Some.
I have never seen you test in epoxy called pc-7 Growing up in the Northeast it was our go-to product. 40 years ago I remember standing in a hardware store as a child admiring this little statue they had on the counter that was a demonstration to pc-7 strength. A bottle filled with colored liquid with nuts and bolts and golf balls glued to it he could not pull apart. we use pc-7 on a variety of projects over the years and never were disappointed. I believe it is an equal to the original JB well if not better. Maybe a showdown pc-7 vs. J-B Weld? Anyways, another great video thanks
Can you test threadlockers such as loctite and jb weld etc. and see if the work and wich works better? You can tight the bolts with the torque wrench using threadlocker and then mesure the torque required to loosen them .
I once used regular superglue one some bolts holding a pull starter on portable generator. When I had to remove them later the bolts wrung off with the nuts still glued on.
i'm sure there will be some variability, but most strong threadlockers require heat to loosen (without heat you can literally twist the head off the bolt) It might be interesting to know the strongest that is still removable without heat though.
In the fastener of testing industry what you're talking about is a very common test. All you need is a clean degreased nut. Run the nut fully into the thread locker, let it cure, then measure peak removal torque.
The engineering company develops and produces precision testing equipment, the most common one we make is for torque measuring. The torque measuring system is most often used by beverage and pharmaceutical companies for testing cap install and removal torque but the system is very adaptable for measuring torque on just about any application, its an extremely precise and repeatable tester, I bet that it could even be used for the common test you mentioned otm646
This is so informative! I always thought that the best epoxy would simply be the best epoxy. It seems that what it is used on and how it is to be used are of equal importance. One size doesn’t fit all. Thanks, Todd!
FINALLY! A very well thought out and executed demonstration (test). Super clear audio and make sense video. I like others, are awaiting your plastic to plastic tests. Great job!!
Thank you brother. Whenever I'm need something to repair stuff I come to your channel. Beautiful truth. Thank you. I need epoxy the thin plastic Inside fridge was iced so I stabbed it off and poked small tear inside fridge wall. It's plastic. Now ice builds up where I poked hhole. Simple fix. Epoxy the wounds. Beautiful work you do here.
could you do this same test with something other than a nylon bolt maybe abs or some other plastic from personal experience not much likes to stick to nylon
Love these videos! You should get an engine and leave on only the metal parts and put it in a bonfire overnight to simulate being in a house/garage/structure/forest fire and then build the engine so u can run it and see what effects those temperatures would have on the whole engine to show what would happen and what part would fail first (if any) if someone tried to rebuild an engine that was in their home/garage when it burns down.
Cooking oil won't work as it, along with non-stick sprays only work to prevent the food from sticking to the pan. If these products are used in a "friction" type function, it turns into a very sticky glue like substance and would lock any engine up very quickly. I know this as I used to repair a lot of food preparation equipment and many folks would use cooking oil or Pam to lube something like the slide rods in something like a meat slicer. Then when the whole assembly became a solid mass, they were shocked at the expense as this crap has to be scraped off with a razor blade, then a wire wheel on a bench grinder and then still cleaned with solvent to make it usable again. I also learned at a young age about this when I had one of those neat Visible V8 engine models with the electric motor in the starter housing and the distributor actually worked turning on lights where the spark plugs were. The instructions said to use cooking oil to lube the cylinders. Needless to say, my model totally froze up quite quickly. If I get my hands on another one of these exact models (not the hand crank one), I now know better to use mineral oil, or the food machine oil which I still have plenty of. Just my 2 dollars worth.
JB Weld again, and again, my favorite part about JB Weld is the two tubes. It's so easy for a single tube adhesive to gum up at the opening of the tube. I do wonder if the dual syringe design would be good against clogs for the kind of person that only needs a good, occasional adhesive. That being said, I'll probably stick with JB Weld as the default
Excellent vid. Classic Project Farm. What impresses me most is the creative way you conjure the torture tests. It allows your viewers to understand the overall quality of what your testing in many different ways. The viewer can determine what is best for their specific project. Kudos again!
@@JimmyCasket02 not really. I'm not a big diy person, and I have no immediate intention of purchasing any of the stuff he tested, but i've been binging his vids for 2 days now lol
Great work as usual, have always been a fan and just love the consistency in the quality of your videos (the methods, tests, variants, and all around analysis)
It’s not an epoxy, but I have had great success adhering metal to plastic using E6000. It is flexible, strong, sets quickly, resists high ambient temperatures, and dries clear. Kudos for such an amazing channel!
@@RandomRoulett3 no actually people don't care on UA-cam. It's all informal and doesn't matter. Only when discussing complicated topics should it matter.
Project Farm+ if you do a penetrating oil test please include a popular home brew that is supposedly better than all the commercial ones, half ATF + half Acetone shaken well before application.
I know this is somewhat old either way I’d love to see a replay with new contenders with some of the newer epoxies. I’d even be willing to send you a couple of them to test myself. I also have a few other ideas that maybe we could discuss. Especially with the tool and hardware market getting a bit of a shake up as things are coming out everyday now that COVID has left many people at home to invent new things and they are starting to hit the market.
Hi, I just wanted to add to the comments requesting/suggesting plastic to plastic epoxy/glue/mending tests. I read a comment and agree, that nylon might not be the best representative, especially to metal. I'd like to see it done with abs, pvc, and maybe some other common plastics. I think most people are looking to repair a broken or cracked plastic part or piece of something and it's a very tricky thing. I need to fix an oscillating fan part. It's the piece that allows the fan head assembly to pivot/click up and down to various positions, and the power cord goes through this piece. It's cracked in half ("cleanly" but not "straight, if that makes sense). Anyway, I'd pay $30+ ($150 cad that is) to get a good fix, because I can't find more of the fan and it's really good. Thanks again for your time and efforts. Much appreciated.
As always, a great 👍 sir. I’m always amazed at how much I can learn by watching your videos. I always wished my high school had some type of shop class, which it didn’t. If it did, you would have been the best teacher a young person could ever ask for! My friend, God bless you and yours! Stay safe and healthy and keep these awesome videos coming our way 😃
My conclusion as well; why keep a battery of products for specific usages when the "JB" is so adequate (and sometimes superior) for your holding needs.
@@gamecapturemoments1 Yup... lots of different plastics. Actually I think there'd be most interest in bonding metals to, say, carbon fiber reinforced epoxy or similar. Steel to polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, etc. would be weak in any case. I'd probably use a fastener instead of glue. Steel to CRE or GRE would be of more interesting because 1) the material is more or less like steel in terms of stiffness and strength and 2) they glue better.
First time on your channel and I love how thorough you are! However, I think it would have been good to test how much strength each had when being pulled directly away from the point of contact. I found this video because the door handle to my oven got yanked out and the housing holding the screws got stripped, and I wanted to see what product would be best to use. Thanks for the info!
You always earn a thumbs up. The quality of your videos is amazing and it is very kind of you to use your own finances for our entertainment. Nice one.👍
Love your vids! I'd also like to see plastic-to-plastic, specifically ABS. I'm guessing those bolts were nylon? Nylon is more resistant to solvents than ABS, so these epoxies may perform better with ABS. Majority of the time, when I need an epoxy, it's to glue back a mounting tab, joint, or bracket that busted off some ABS plastic snap-fit thing. Lately, I've been repairing broken plastic things with LOCTITE 11C Hysol instead of my regular go-to, JB Weld. I'm curious how it compares.
These are the comments that we need on here. I also wanted to add that every time that you tried a new Technique I was asking myself what would happen if? Then you tried it. I feel confident that you covered everything. Good job and thank you!
That is a stupid question. Epoxy can not be mixed in different ways. It is not like polyester where you can play with more ore less hardner. There is only one correct way to mix. In laminating epoxy's a diversion of 1% can already weaken the epoxy by 50%.
actionmedia4all Hey big boy, just a reminder that even though you’re on the internet and anonymous, you should still attempt to avoid making an ass out of yourself. It sounds like you’re a rational dude. You claim it’s a stupid question to want scientific, empirical evidence on a de facto rule but in the same breath claim to have those exact data. Discounting heuristics because you hold the key of knowledge is like burning your own ship. Where did you get your numbers from? Have these “magic ratio” experiments been performed prior? Were folks who conducted the test stupid for having a hypothesis, too? Whose proprietary epoxy and hardener formula was being tested, and which manufacturing batch? I’m sure it’s 100% exact between every single manufacturer since the history of time. You say so! Have you verified the results yourself? What’s your relative standard deviation? You sure are helping the scientific community. Are you by your own logic stupid for not proactively knowing the answer to the experiment of the video you are watching?
wow, Hakeem, What a harsh reaction to my statement. First of all, I am not anonymous on the internet, far from that. Google me and you will know who I am. By the way, I did not make an ass out of myself and yes am a big guy. Second of all, I only have 30 years of experience working with epoxy building Windsurfing boards and now Windsurfing Fins in Carbon Fiber. So I know what I am talking about. My statement is 100% correct. In this time period where you can have acces to Google, asking a question that you could have answerd yourself in 20 seceonds (by googeling it) is in my opinion a stupid question. The first thing a teacher teaches you in school is to think first and try to find the answer yourself befor you ask a question. Every epoxy has his own exact mixing ratio based on the chemical composition it is made of. Not following the mixing ratio of the manufacturer is not smart. For every epoxy there is a datasheet where you can exactly see what propertys are of that epoxy, for curing times, curing temperatures and mixing ratio. That is where I get my info, and the 30 year experience. Fore more information here are a view links to what epoxy manufacturers have to say about it. www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/dispensing-mixing/ www.resinlab.com/images/resources/pdf/EpoxyMixingInstructions.pdf www.r-g.de/wiki/Fehler/Ursache/Abhilfe
I would like to see pvc & HDPE plastic to steel test I assuming the bolts were nylon which are super tuff adhere. Also expanding foam. Great job. 5 stars
Had a plastic tab cover on my vehicle that cracked. After watching your video, I decided to repair the crack with JB Weld. I measured by weight each half before mixing to insure maximum hardness. I let it cure for 36 hours before trying to reinstall it. As soon as I tried slipping the cover back onto the tab, it split again.
@@nisonaticyeah people have no idea how to use protective gear. My boss keeps using the same gloves over and over till they tear. He gets mad at me because I refuse to re wear the use once gloves
I'd like to see these performing on plastic to plastic! Repairing home appliances is usually glueing plastic to plastic so that's what I'd like to see. Saw some other video's, they are great comparison tests!
Good job, but the only accurate way to test against one another would be to do the same test to multiple bolts and average the results together, too many variables to do each test one time on each bolt
@Carl Covey . . . If you ever find an old package of JB Weld, the written part on the back of the blister pack is a lot different than what is found on the current packaging; in that the old packaging had printed testimonials on the quality of the product, where I will transcribe it here: _A part store in Waco, Texas repaired a 20 ton hydraulic jack with J-B WELD and saved $99.00._ _The city of Dallas, Texas, repaired a cracked Caterpillar engine block with J-B WELD and saved $4,000 plus 30 day down time._ _A Kansas farmer said, "I have used J-B WELD for more than five years on my farm equipment and I have decided that is is even better than baling wire."_ _A lady from Seattle repaired her cracked kitchen disposal with J-B WELD bought from her auto mechanic. She reports complete satisfaction with the results._ _In Dallas, a housewife saved her expensive stainless steel cookware set by repairing the heat damaged phenolic plastic handles with J-B WELD._ (To the left of the text were illustrations of the repaired items.) The above text is no longer printed on the current packaging of J-B WELD. Instead, the space it taken up with bi-lingual instructions; specific usages for the product; and a lengthy description on the chemical hazards of the product, and the first-aid measures to take for skin contact.
I'm continually amazed at the amount of work and time you take to save us a bunch of money and time buying the wrong product. Thank you very much for all the work you put into these videos.
I was literally at the store at staring at locktight not sure if I should get it cuz I never heard of the brand. I got JB Weld instead. I’m considering getting locktight next. Thank you for putting the time & effort to making this video. It’s was very enjoyable to watch
I know this is 4 years old. However, I needed to do some plastic repair work. Guess where I went first? Project Farm! Thank you for giving me options and allowing me to decide what will fit my need. You're the best.
still one of the best and most helpful channels. i wish you had a plastic to plastic epoxy test gonna be trying to repair my cracked dash with some just can't afford a new dash an really don't like the dash cover over lays either.
This guy has saved us a lot of time and money. Appreciate all your work.
Thank you very much!
NO KIDDING! He’s actually caused me to change brands on a few things I’d used for years. It’s funny how advertisers quit marketing to people above 35 or 40, since we’ve normally found out stuff and dont change brands. WRONG! Project Farm is better than Consumer Reports to me. This is a real world test, in metrics us folk that use things actually apply things and can see things in our normal daily life.
Here to find out what will stick my sisters car seat handle so it will let the seat back move so she can get in the back of her car from the passenger side as right now part of it is broken so it won’t pull the cable to release it.
One of the most useful channels. Thank you sir
And heartache
Being a do it your selfer I cant tell you how much I love these videos. Greatly appreciate all your hard work.
I appreciate that!
Interesting test.
A couple points to consider:
This is for one specific type of plastic (nylon?) bonded to steel. There are several other types us folks who repair our own or other cars also see: styrene, polystyrene, polypropylene, various types of polyelthylene (HDPE, LDPE, PET), polyamide. Would be very interesting to see the results with each plastic type as they all have different properties.
How about the plastic bonded to itself for each type, such as when the home mechanic attempts to repair a plastic part? Often this is the only recourse, as folks like myself encounter broken plastic parts and replacements are not available.
I rarely need to bond plastic to metal, but plastic to itself is of great interest.
I look forward to seeing such a review from you!
Thanks for the suggestion.
Yes! Thanks for all you do but yeah plastic to plastic is what I need and what I usually need. Thanks again. You do us all a great service. Really.
I was going to chime in here and say that nylon is way different from most of the plastics I deal with. It would be interesting to use non-nylon in some tests. Also plastic 2 plastic would be really interesting.
Me too. I want to see all types of plastics bonded to others.
Have a look at the Sikaflex range. They produce a special adhesive for body panels and ABS
Nice review. Would of been nice to see a plastic to plastic bond. As that's what most people would use a plastic bond adhesive for.
Me too but I think we can get a general idea by looking at how well the epoxies bonded to the plastic by itself
I too wish he did a plastic to plastic test
That's is my main need to know is the plastic to plastic for sure
He stated all the epoxies (except original jb weld) are designed to go from plastic to other materials.
That’s what I was hoping this video was about.
I'm in a real bind, broke an expensive plastic interior piece on a car...
I can't tell you the feeling of happiness and relief when I see project farm did reviews on products I need. So thankful. Made my day.
Glad to hear!
Was the broken piece plastic to plastic? Did you fix it?
Another unbiased no BS test. Please don't sell out. These videos are very valuable
Thanks!
Thank you all for continuing to provide future video ideas! Here are the links to the products tested in the video. Highly recommend shopping around for the best price. Best regards, Todd
Gorilla Clear Weld: amzn.to/2Ynh3AX
JB Weld Original: amzn.to/3j2SlxO
JB Weld Plastic Bonder: amzn.to/3jaihHJ
Loctite Ultra Gel Control: amzn.to/3hmyk4Z
Super Glue Plastic Fusion: amzn.to/32kp5vR
it would be great if you tested how well they bonded to one another, and then done the subsequent tests. Id love to see gorilla on the bolt and jb weld on the metal. There is a dozen variables you could explore, regarding the curing times and which is bonding to which, etc.. love your channel. top notch!
I was watching super glue and mixing baking soda with it. Even ash's and super glue. Amazing results! So what super glue mixes with a control using different ash/soda's. Strongest to hold weight, how they cut, sand. The other variable is using release agents. I have seen grease, wd-40, motor oil, or aluminum tape and masking tape. Long time sub. Hope you at least see this??
Try 3m scotch weld 👍
Can we recreate this test? Maybe test to see how they do when they are below freezing temperatures. Test when they are welded to themselves. Or any other test that you can think of.
@@topherteardowns4679 Also curing with UV light.
Thank you for you videos!! Whenever I want something compared Project Farms is always my go-to. Also the fact that you are replying to comments for a video that is 5 years old.....that's next level!
Wow, thank you!
This review saved me about $1,000! Based on your tests I got the Loctite to fix a broken door handle on a high-end GE microwave. The handle had snapped off in a weird way because the screw fittings are all plastic. I think the flex test is the one that convinced me, based on pull and shear from normal usage. Found out this is a common breakage complaint with our model. Can’t just buy the handle without taking the door entirely apart and requiring some radiation testing above my pay grade. One week after application and a 24 hour cure, and it is still holding like it was never broken! And I’m a hero in the home! Thanks again!
My ge microwave handle also failed and is why I'm here.
@@onewondershow2 good luck! It’s still holding tight!
I had a similar issue with the door latch on a Kitchenaid microwave that I fixed with JB Weld, it did a super job.
Radiation testing when taking apart microwave door isn't how it works
@@rickc303 I am talking about microwave leakage if the door is incorrectly resealed. The entire door assembly and internal seals to the door would have to be removed to replace the handle the way it is constructed. It’s right there in the documentation.
Original J.B. Weld never ceases to amaze. It's the only one that I have had any real experience with (once I needed something to be clear in color and tried some generic 5-min stuff other than that I think it's always been j.b. weld) and I kind of felt myself rooting for it to outperform the others. Based on my past experience & your tests I think it's safe to conclude that you can't go wrong with regular 'ole J.B. Weld.... Next they need to figure out how to make it clear in color. Then there is absolutely no use for anything else. Great video, going to save me from reading the backs of 50 different epoxy packages just to choose J.B. Weld in the end anyway because there is too many choices and variants. Plastic specific epoxy seems like a gimmick when something made for steel outperforms them on plastic. Thanks for simplifying my life just a tad bit...
Thank you very much for the positive comment! All of the clear epoxies seem to have a similar smell, which is much different than the epoxies with colors. I wish they could make a JB Weld formula that was clear and as good as the original.
I think original JB is reinforced with tiny strands of steel, probably where most of the grey color comes from.
Spectt84 They do now have a clear formulation. So far, so good on plastic to plastic, but it is not all that right an application I am using it for, but others did fail.
i wonder if they could instead of using steel to reinforece jb weld, to use glass fibre? then it would be strong and clear too?
Honestly i think this video gives you more than whats the best single product, its more of the correct application for the specific use of the products tested. I love both loctite and jb weld, but knowing what to use in each application is the most important thing.
You have tested steel to steel , plastic to steel , BUT , have you done plastic to plastic?
That is the one I'm Really curious about. ...... point out if you have done plastic to plastic , I might be over looking it. Thanks
He did do one where he glued pvc pipe to itself.
@@kkampy4052 hi - which video was that? (I tried to find it and didn't)
We're curious about different types of plastics. At least the main 5 or so
I am also interested in the best plastic to plastic epoxy.
@@kkampy4052 that was more about liquid nail products rather than gluing plastic to plastic.
I wanted to see you do THIS very project and requested it in the past, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the incredible work you do and for always being so logical, thorough and unbiased in all of your project setups, testing protocols and final analyses! I am a huge nerd who loves to learn but does not have the means, nor your degree of expertise, to perform ALL of the various product comparisons I've always wanted to do in order to work smarter--not harder.
It is for this reason that your channel and the almost unbelievable plethora of project farm head-to-head tests / comparisons make my life so much easier. Without your high integrity testing methodology and truly unbiased approach, I'd be forced to rely on far more subjective "reviews" (too many of which shill for a particular brand unbeknownst to the consumer), or I'd have to accept the fact that many of my projects would quite likely have a higher degree of inherent failures due to lack of real-world data points from which to extrapolate the BEST or MOST SUITABLE product to meet my unique needs.
Again.....working smarter, rather that harder, means I don't want to have rework, especially if it occurs multiple times for something that could have been avoided had I done sufficient research or had access to the kind of unbiased, side-by-side, practical comparisons that not only provide a simple excel-type table or spreadsheet of relevant specs & data points, but I have the advantage of being able to be a fly on the wall in your shop and to soak in the knowledge as I have time and need.
One great thing that I've discovered over time by watching numerous head-to-head roundups here is that in nearly every case where I've performed similar tests--often ritualistic and very OCD-like tests to help me get over my anxiety & worry of choosing the wrong product for a task--or by trial and error I've learned volumes on what DOESN'T work, I find incredible comfort and satisfaction in discovering that YOUR TESTS SO OFTEN CORRELATE WITH MY REAL-WORLD FINDINGS.
That has provided me a good measure of faith & trust in my own abilities to make accurate assessments and to logically discern the critical information necessary from so much of my everyday life; whatever the days bring my way and what will be next on my list of repairs, maintenance and upgrades to home, auto & tech!
I know that's a LOT to read, but it is sincere and from the heart, thus I believe it carries more weight than a mere "thank you," even if that expression of gratitude is in ALL CAPS. LOL Again....I hope it is truly fulfilling for you knowing that you help so many through your work here on the channel. I realize this is NOT easy, nor cheap to pull off. Hell, the video editing skills alone are worth their weight in gold and I wish I could pick your brain on that subject as well.
Happiest holidays to you and yours.
Namaste.
Cheers!
Thanks so much! Happy Holidays!
This was a very tough test. You used nylon bolts. It is very difficult to get anything to stick to nylon. Good job as usual though.
This is a great point. I plan to test plastic on plastic soon. Are there a few plastic glues or epoxies that you recommend I test? I'd like to stay with the consumer price range if possible. Most people aren't willing to spend $30+ on a plastic repair.
PF....I can't off hand think of any specific plastic epoxies but I have used JB Weld Original with fiberglass mat to join broken motorcycle plastics together with great success.
Project Farm could you test Devcon Plastic Welder. It must have some strong solvents in it because it sure puts off some fumes.
Project Farm- You should try using acetone to melt abs plastic together
......and I'm one of 'em!
It makes a big difference on which type of plastic you are trying to bond with. The different polyethylene types, polypropylene, polystyrene, and PVC all need different bonding agents to make a successful plastic weld. Picking up a regular off the shelf epoxy from a hardware store is asking for bond fail. Thanks for the video!
Any tips on what kind to use for a car door handle? I would be "gluing" the front plastic piece onto, another piece of 3/4 inch corner mold. I could buy the corner mold in a specific type of plastic when I go to buy it.Then the other side of the corner mold will be glued onto the part of the door handle that remains on the car. This is one of those pull upward door handles. Thanks for any ideas.
Amazing how much Todd's testing has improved in the last 6 years., I'd love to see this kind of test done again but with various plastic combinations
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Agreed. Plastic to plastic bonding tests would be great to see!
Excellent stress test. You are the Consumer Reports of adhesive products. Its the best mechanical adhesion bond testing I've seen. Thanks so much. Keep-up the great work for us tinkerer/DIY/Maker Fair community.
Thank you!
Do so appreciate your taking the time and effort in testing so many products for us. I can see that you go out of your way to make these tests as accate and honest as you possibly can. THANK YOU!
You are so welcome!
Brother I hate to break it to you, but UA-camrs like this are doing it for the paychecks. Don’t get me wrong, his content is good, but trust me me, his motive for making these isn’t philanthropic lol
Thanks for putting all the time and effort into these tests so we don't have to. It is impossible to tell the difference between advertising and truthful claims without real tests like these. I really like how consistent you try to keep your tests. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you very much for the positive feedback!
Anyone else find yourself watching these videos in the hardware store parking lot?
I will not confirm nor deny that I am currently sitting in a home depot parking lot
bro I'm in the store....
I had to rewatch the video on penetrating oil standing in Lowe’s 2 weeks ago.
lmao im outside home depot rn
Wouldn’t have it any other way. The amount of brands these days whewww
Over 4 years of work you have really polished your videos. Outstanding job!
Thanks!
Definitely earned a thumbs up. I agree that it is hard to have a definite winner in this competition. I think we are all fans of JB Weld original.
Thank you very much!
Sorry if I missed it, but what was the plastic bolt made of? Was it polyethylene or Polypropylene, Nylon, etc.
I don't think he said, I watched the beginning again and the text just said "plastic bolts". It's a great question though, especially since some plastics are harder to glue and are more chemically resistant. I'd be interested in the answer.
Speaking as a person who has actually designed research projects, I must say that your experimental designs are very well thought out! You put a lot of effort into minimizing extraneous variables.
Gluing plastic is almost always problematic for me. Nylon is naturally "lubed" so especially tough. Same with polyethylene. Not much sticks to it, except labels when you want to remove them.... If I can, I will do bizarre surface preps like cutting holes or slots, sanding etc, and if using a suitable glue, I'll overglue to embed the parts in a blob of the epoxy. If faced with butt-gluing small plastic bits, I usually don't even try.
Thanks!
yep i would agree some plastics are made so nothing sticks to them very well, using a solder gun to melt some metal to them and then glueing that would probably work
Am I the only 1 that walks into his shop and notices I've got the worst types on the shelf and just throw it away and buy only what I learn from this channel now!! Thanks projectfarm
You are welcome!
8 months back it was mentioned that it would be better to also test plastic to plastic. In your Super Glue testing you did test plastic to plastic using PVC pipe. It would be real interesting to see how these would do with a plastic to plastic test.
Great suggestion! Thank you.
I was getting ready to fix my the plastic gas tank on my lawn mower. I have lots of small tubes of jb weld. It's not that I intended to buy multiple tubes. It's that I cleaned up my garage recently and found them everywhere. I was going to head out and buy a tube of jb weld for plastic to add to the pile. Thanks to your test, I will just give good old gray a try.
Same here my friend when I need JB weld I just go looking around my house or garage and find plenty of tubes of it long time user of the product even used it on a engine plug on a car in 1984 sold the car 3yrs later no problem plug coming out
What a crazy test because I tried J-B weld original to fix the top corner of a plastic radiator and it cracked again. After cleaning and sanding again, I used super glue and baking soda on the radiator on day two and the radiator did not crack on the way home from work this time.
be better to test plastic to plastic strength
Thanks for the feedback.
Would be an interesting test, though we use what might be better called a solvent for such things, such as WeldOn 4. In the end, using it, two pieces look like one and are welded together.
That would be awesome and helpful knowledge to know
In some ways not as interesting, since same-plastic can be welded. Finding something that'll bond it to metal is much trickier.
@@ADefenestrator but interestingly enough all over the internet you see mainly people trying to glue broken plastic parts back together and having very low success rate. welding doesn't really help if you don't have the same material to use as a filler to weld the 2 broken parts, because if you weld plastic you melt a lot of it on the contact, and where you can't spare those 1-2mm of material to melt away.....you are just stuck(and not in the good bond success way :) ). and most people just have problems gluing plastic to plastic, so i'd say this would be even more interesting than just trying plastic to metal or other materials. you can clearly see also in this video that it's the plastic which presents issues for all glues to bond to it
this is one of the best diy channels on UA-cam. Thank you for your time and energy. I hope it gets huge because People can learn a lot from these tests.
Thank you very much for the positive comment!
Very interesting results, thank you for doing these videos - I've been keeping a log of the "winners (or ties)" regarding the different tests that you have done for different circumstances and it's a sincere pleasure to see the real deal without having to guess while standing in the aisles.
Thanks for sharing!
I thoroughly agree with people who requested that you do this test with various kinds of plastic, not just nylon. I'm particularly interested in the best way to glue metal to expanded PVC sheets. Thanks for your very informative videos!
how often would a person have need to glue plastic to steel?
more of a case or need to bond plastic to MORE PLASTIC of the same nature unto (on onto) itself me thinks.
All great points. Thanks for commenting.
I agree with you, J.P.
Came across this video for this exact reason. Broke an RC helicopter landing gear leg and was curious what the best plastic to plastic adhesive was. Still a great video though! Would have liked to see Devcon plastic steel too although. 👍👍
The best for plastic-to-plastic WAS Devcon MVP 33. It was so good, they stopped making it. The next best was Devcon Plastic Welder. ALL the other so called "plastic welders" are not nearly as good. These conclusions result from trying many products over many years. "Crazy glues" might grip great at first, but, in my experience, they do not hold up over time.
Voodoo Ranger 🍻👍😄
Great video as always. Part of the problem may lie in the type of plastic used to make those bolts. Delrin, Acetal, and Nylon 66 are examples of Copolymer and Homopolymer's that leach oils.
There is a high probability that those bolts had lubricants added to them to provide lubricity to reduce friction, heat and to prevent galling when tightening on the matching nuts.
These types of plastics leach oils and can prevent glues and paints from sticking to them.
Mostly nylon might as well have been silicone.
Why was this not a plastic to plastic bond test?
If it fails on the plastic side, which almost all of them did, then there is no benefit of doing plastic on plastic - you already know the failure point.
Did u watch the video he literally talked about it 3:19
Again! Great information!
One of the most interesting channels that I watch. Thanks!!
Thank you very much for the positive comment!
The Loctite was quite impressive. The bolts you used are nylon, each plastic has profound differences in how they perform and react to things. Here's a tip taught to me by an old-school mold guy. Take a piece of known plastic and light it on fire (all you need is a sliver) Blow it out and sniff the smoke. NO TWO PLASTICS SMELL ALIKE and the smell is so strong you'll never forget it.
All ethylene family plastics give off oils, To bond to them ya gotta remove the oils and since there's always more trying to come out it is a really improbable proposition. We used to use E-Beam Rastering to flash off the oil with some success. Some.
I have never seen you test in epoxy called pc-7
Growing up in the Northeast it was our go-to product.
40 years ago I remember standing in a hardware store as a child admiring this little statue they had on the counter that was a demonstration to pc-7 strength.
A bottle filled with colored liquid with nuts and bolts and golf balls glued to it he could not pull apart.
we use pc-7 on a variety of projects over the years and never were disappointed.
I believe it is an equal to the original JB well if not better.
Maybe a showdown pc-7 vs. J-B Weld?
Anyways, another great video thanks
PC 7 and PC11, are great. They are more of a paste and can fill, whereas JB is a thin liquid. 11 sets up under water and is white. HIGHLY recommend
How about throwing 3M 5200 into one if your test for us boaters. We use it as an adhesive and as a sealer.
You sir are an encyclopedia of product testing knowledge. If youtube had an award show you will definitely be a top contender in many categories
Thanks!
Can you test threadlockers such as loctite and jb weld etc. and see if the work and wich works better? You can tight the bolts with the torque wrench using threadlocker and then mesure the torque required to loosen them .
Teo, Yes, I plan to test threadlockers very soon. Thank you very much for this recommendation!
I once used regular superglue one some bolts holding a pull starter on portable generator. When I had to remove them later the bolts wrung off with the nuts still glued on.
i'm sure there will be some variability, but most strong threadlockers require heat to loosen (without heat you can literally twist the head off the bolt) It might be interesting to know the strongest that is still removable without heat though.
In the fastener of testing industry what you're talking about is a very common test. All you need is a clean degreased nut. Run the nut fully into the thread locker, let it cure, then measure peak removal torque.
The engineering company develops and produces precision testing equipment, the most common one we make is for torque measuring. The torque measuring system is most often used by beverage and pharmaceutical companies for testing cap install and removal torque but the system is very adaptable for measuring torque on just about any application, its an extremely precise and repeatable tester, I bet that it could even be used for the common test you mentioned otm646
This is so informative! I always thought that the best epoxy would simply be the best epoxy. It seems that what it is used on and how it is to be used are of equal importance. One size doesn’t fit all. Thanks, Todd!
Great point!
FINALLY! A very well thought out and executed demonstration (test). Super clear audio and make sense video.
I like others, are awaiting your plastic to plastic tests.
Great job!!
Thank you!
Thank you brother. Whenever I'm need something to repair stuff I come to your channel. Beautiful truth. Thank you. I need epoxy the thin plastic Inside fridge was iced so I stabbed it off and poked small tear inside fridge wall. It's plastic. Now ice builds up where I poked hhole. Simple fix. Epoxy the wounds. Beautiful work you do here.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Have you ever tested rapid fix 2 part adhesive. curious how that holds up.
Slower adhesive is always better adhesive.
Early this time around. I would like to see a plastic to plastic styled test. @Project Farm
Thank you for this recommendation!
As always good Job. Keep it up.
could you do this same test with something other than a nylon bolt maybe abs or some other plastic from personal experience not much likes to stick to nylon
I was thinking the same. Plastic to plastic and different plastics.
Use polyethylene instead of nylon
Love these videos! You should get an engine and leave on only the metal parts and put it in a bonfire overnight to simulate being in a house/garage/structure/forest fire and then build the engine so u can run it and see what effects those temperatures would have on the whole engine to show what would happen and what part would fail first (if any) if someone tried to rebuild an engine that was in their home/garage when it burns down.
Thank you for this video project idea!
Project Farm hope it's possible!
i glued my broken front bumper supports back together with jb weld for plastics and it never came apart
Thank you for sharing!
Use a high temp cooking oil as a replacement for motor oil.
This is a great suggestion. I'll test this soon!
Cooking oil won't work as it, along with non-stick sprays only work to prevent the food from sticking to the pan. If these products are used in a "friction" type function, it turns into a very sticky glue like substance and would lock any engine up very quickly. I know this as I used to repair a lot of food preparation equipment and many folks would use cooking oil or Pam to lube something like the slide rods in something like a meat slicer. Then when the whole assembly became a solid mass, they were shocked at the expense as this crap has to be scraped off with a razor blade, then a wire wheel on a bench grinder and then still cleaned with solvent to make it usable again. I also learned at a young age about this when I had one of those neat Visible V8 engine models with the electric motor in the starter housing and the distributor actually worked turning on lights where the spark plugs were. The instructions said to use cooking oil to lube the cylinders. Needless to say, my model totally froze up quite quickly. If I get my hands on another one of these exact models (not the hand crank one), I now know better to use mineral oil, or the food machine oil which I still have plenty of. Just my 2 dollars worth.
JRobert111111 worth a try & see in action!
Project Farm look forward to it mate! Viewer from Australia here bud!
Does adding sawdust or metal powder to epoxy help? I’ve seen forged in fire contestants do this a few times and science doesn’t seem to support it.
Adding particulates to a matrix substrate can affect its behavior. But not surw in what way
Great videos, this channel should have 1 mil
Thank you very much for the positive comment!
This channel maybe the best side by side comparison channels ever!! Thanks!!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm did you do a plastic welding plastic video in a similar way as this video? Difficult to find such good content anywhere.
Also, I would recommend plastic to plastic tests with varying types of plastic.
Thank you for this recommendation!
JB Weld again, and again, my favorite part about JB Weld is the two tubes. It's so easy for a single tube adhesive to gum up at the opening of the tube.
I do wonder if the dual syringe design would be good against clogs for the kind of person that only needs a good, occasional adhesive. That being said, I'll probably stick with JB Weld as the default
Thank you!
I just bought some. The syringe is only .85oz, the dual tube is 2oz total. It's double the price for the convenience.
Which epoxy works best as motor oil?
Thank you for the video idea!
Actually they use the epoxy curing agent as additives: engine oil dispersant and oil detergent.
Excellent vid. Classic Project Farm. What impresses me most is the creative way you conjure the torture tests. It allows your viewers to understand the overall quality of what your testing in many different ways. The viewer can determine what is best for their specific project. Kudos again!
Thanks so much!
The world can't thank you enough for these vids
That is so kind!
Please try out dish soap (liquid kind) in a lawnmower engine and use the same amount of dish soap as you would oil
Thank you for this recommendation!
please do it its been driving me nuts if it would work as like a high viscosity oil
Project Farm try to mix each epoxy and see if they hold better
please
TheGirfan1234 no use atf
10:37 For anyone needing a quick reference of his findings.
Thanks for watching!
Grizzleback07 kind of defeats the purpose of this video
@@ProjectFarm Time to test Plast -Aid I think!
@@JimmyCasket02 not really. I'm not a big diy person, and I have no immediate intention of purchasing any of the stuff he tested, but i've been binging his vids for 2 days now lol
Thank god
Thanks!
Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!
Great work as usual, have always been a fan and just love the consistency in the quality of your videos (the methods, tests, variants, and all around analysis)
Thanks!
I really appreciate the time, money and effort you put into your experiments. You help a lot of people out. Nice job man 👌 thank you.
Glad to help!
Revisit this one please now that you have better test methods.
It’s not an epoxy, but I have had great success adhering metal to plastic using E6000. It is flexible, strong, sets quickly, resists high ambient temperatures, and dries clear. Kudos for such an amazing channel!
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I must of picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue.
LOL
@@RandomRoulett3
Lighten up. Brain is obviously a little damaged from sniffing glue.
@@RandomRoulett3 no one cares on a UA-cam comment section bud. What are you grading people based on grammar composition skills on here?
@@RandomRoulett3 no actually people don't care on UA-cam. It's all informal and doesn't matter. Only when discussing complicated topics should it matter.
RandomRoulette you must of been a English teacher
You should compare different types of penetrating oil such as PB blaster and liquid wrench. To see which one works best on rusted nuts and bolts.
This is a great suggestion--thanks!
Project Farm+ if you do a penetrating oil test please include a popular home brew that is supposedly better than all the commercial ones, half ATF + half Acetone shaken well before application.
Siggy in CR Yes. I use this all the time. I will never buy commercial penetrating liquid again.
Dont forget kroil thats some amazing stuff
Aaron Kirchner PB blaster is awesome it does blow rust right off of stuff
I know this is somewhat old either way I’d love to see a replay with new contenders with some of the newer epoxies. I’d even be willing to send you a couple of them to test myself. I also have a few other ideas that maybe we could discuss. Especially with the tool and hardware market getting a bit of a shake up as things are coming out everyday now that COVID has left many people at home to invent new things and they are starting to hit the market.
Hi,
I just wanted to add to the comments requesting/suggesting plastic to plastic epoxy/glue/mending tests. I read a comment and agree, that nylon might not be the best representative, especially to metal.
I'd like to see it done with abs, pvc, and maybe some other common plastics. I think most people are looking to repair a broken or cracked plastic part or piece of something and it's a very tricky thing.
I need to fix an oscillating fan part. It's the piece that allows the fan head assembly to pivot/click up and down to various positions, and the power cord goes through this piece. It's cracked in half ("cleanly" but not "straight, if that makes sense).
Anyway, I'd pay $30+ ($150 cad that is) to get a good fix, because I can't find more of the fan and it's really good.
Thanks again for your time and efforts. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video idea.
As always, a great 👍 sir. I’m always amazed at how much I can learn by watching your videos. I always wished my high school had some type of shop class, which it didn’t. If it did, you would have been the best teacher a young person could ever ask for! My friend, God bless you and yours! Stay safe and healthy and keep these awesome videos coming our way 😃
You are welcome!
JB well seems to be a Jack of all trades master of most.
Great point! Thank you
My conclusion as well; why keep a battery of products for specific usages when the "JB" is so adequate (and sometimes superior) for your holding needs.
Unfortunately the Nylon bolts weren't the best idea.. Try with plastic bolts next time :)
Great point--thanks!
Nylon is a polymer. "Plastic" is a polymer, The problem is there are a lot of "plastics" so what one, each have different properties.
@@ProjectFarm Also try ABS plastic sheet instead of the steel, since you are testing plastic bonders? Otherwise great video as always.
@@gamecapturemoments1 Yup... lots of different plastics. Actually I think there'd be most interest in bonding metals to, say, carbon fiber reinforced epoxy or similar. Steel to polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, etc. would be weak in any case. I'd probably use a fastener instead of glue. Steel to CRE or GRE would be of more interesting because 1) the material is more or less like steel in terms of stiffness and strength and 2) they glue better.
This man makes the most thorough reviews out there.
Thanks for the positive feedback.
First time on your channel and I love how thorough you are! However, I think it would have been good to test how much strength each had when being pulled directly away from the point of contact. I found this video because the door handle to my oven got yanked out and the housing holding the screws got stripped, and I wanted to see what product would be best to use. Thanks for the info!
You always earn a thumbs up. The quality of your videos is amazing and it is very kind of you to use your own finances for our entertainment. Nice one.👍
Thank you very much for the positive comment!
Love your vids! I'd also like to see plastic-to-plastic, specifically ABS. I'm guessing those bolts were nylon? Nylon is more resistant to solvents than ABS, so these epoxies may perform better with ABS. Majority of the time, when I need an epoxy, it's to glue back a mounting tab, joint, or bracket that busted off some ABS plastic snap-fit thing. Lately, I've been repairing broken plastic things with LOCTITE 11C Hysol instead of my regular go-to, JB Weld. I'm curious how it compares.
Exactly. test failed. trying to find out the best plastic epoxy but proceeded with a metal base frame.
Try 2 part plumbing glue. Or straight up black abs glue for putting together pipes. I've used it and it has never ever broke
you're getting pretty good at this, thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for the positive feedback!
You are doing a great service to all DIY’s. Thank you!
You are welcome!
You sir. Have earned a new sub! Keep it up! Dont get hollywood on us when you get more famous :)
Jonathan, thank you very much for subscribing and for the positive comment!
These are the comments that we need on here. I also wanted to add that every time that you tried a new Technique I was asking myself what would happen if? Then you tried it. I feel confident that you covered everything. Good job and thank you!
looks like you need to choose the right epoxy for the right type of application. Good information here.
Thank you very much for the positive comment!
I watched this video a few times. I would re do the test with plastic glued to plastic.
Another good job on the testing, JB Weld has always been my go to for epoxy. Nice to know I was right at least once in my life.
Please also test plastic to plastic?
Can you test how even you have to mix the resen and hardner, like do a 50:50 mix and 25:75 and 75:25
Noah, thank you for this idea!
That is a stupid question. Epoxy can not be mixed in different ways. It is not like polyester where you can play with more ore less hardner. There is only one correct way to mix. In laminating epoxy's a diversion of 1% can already weaken the epoxy by 50%.
actionmedia4all Hey big boy, just a reminder that even though you’re on the internet and anonymous, you should still attempt to avoid making an ass out of yourself.
It sounds like you’re a rational dude. You claim it’s a stupid question to want scientific, empirical evidence on a de facto rule but in the same breath claim to have those exact data. Discounting heuristics because you hold the key of knowledge is like burning your own ship.
Where did you get your numbers from? Have these “magic ratio” experiments been performed prior? Were folks who conducted the test stupid for having a hypothesis, too? Whose proprietary epoxy and hardener formula was being tested, and which manufacturing batch? I’m sure it’s 100% exact between every single manufacturer since the history of time. You say so!
Have you verified the results yourself? What’s your relative standard deviation? You sure are helping the scientific community. Are you by your own logic stupid for not proactively knowing the answer to the experiment of the video you are watching?
wow, Hakeem, What a harsh reaction to my statement.
First of all, I am not anonymous on the internet, far from that. Google me and you will know who I am. By the way, I did not make an ass out of myself and yes am a big guy.
Second of all, I only have 30 years of experience working with epoxy building Windsurfing boards and now Windsurfing Fins in Carbon Fiber. So I know what I am talking about.
My statement is 100% correct. In this time period where you can have acces to Google, asking a question that you could have answerd yourself in 20 seceonds (by googeling it) is in my opinion a stupid question. The first thing a teacher teaches you in school is to think first and try to find the answer yourself befor you ask a question.
Every epoxy has his own exact mixing ratio based on the chemical composition it is made of. Not following the mixing ratio of the manufacturer is not smart. For every epoxy there is a datasheet where you can exactly see what propertys are of that epoxy, for curing times, curing temperatures and mixing ratio. That is where I get my info, and the 30 year experience.
Fore more information here are a view links to what epoxy manufacturers have to say about it.
www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/dispensing-mixing/
www.resinlab.com/images/resources/pdf/EpoxyMixingInstructions.pdf
www.r-g.de/wiki/Fehler/Ursache/Abhilfe
actionmedia4all What a big boy, what a smart boy!
I would like to see pvc & HDPE plastic to steel test
I assuming the bolts were nylon which are super tuff adhere.
Also expanding foam.
Great job. 5 stars
Thank you for these recommendations!
Had a plastic tab cover on my vehicle that cracked. After watching your video, I decided to repair the crack with JB Weld. I measured by weight each half before mixing to insure maximum hardness. I let it cure for 36 hours before trying to reinstall it. As soon as I tried slipping the cover back onto the tab, it split again.
Thanks for sharing.
Have you tested any of these plastic to plastic? Would be interested in seeing those results
Great vid 👍🏽
Not yet. Thank you for this recommendation!
It would be nice to know which is best for re bonding a same material. Since most of the time that is what I am trying to glue back together.
Just fyi when you remind me to "thumbs up" you get one otherwise I forget. My guess would be I'm not the only one that does this.
Same here. I want to show support for channels but always forget.
People in 2020 going "OMG WASTING SO MANY GLOVES!"
Thanks for watching.
@@nisonaticyeah people have no idea how to use protective gear. My boss keeps using the same gloves over and over till they tear. He gets mad at me because I refuse to re wear the use once gloves
Everyone commenting missed the joke.
Gloves? What about that *isopropyl alcohol?!?!?*
I'd like to see these performing on plastic to plastic! Repairing home appliances is usually glueing plastic to plastic so that's what I'd like to see. Saw some other video's, they are great comparison tests!
Thanks for the suggestion.
There was a Loctite ad before this video LOL ps. Mower man is new for Peter Thompson
LOL! Thanks for commenting.
Try printer ink as oil for a lawnmower
Thanks for this idea!
Austin Pieschel Very expensive, but a good idea aswell
most of printer is soy based so soy bean oil would work I think
This guy is not a millionaire, no one has that kinda money.
Some inks use solvent, which could be flammable. Use caution in your selection.
Good job, but the only accurate way to test against one another would be to do the same test to multiple bolts and average the results together, too many variables to do each test one time on each bolt
Greg, this is a great point. Variance is an issue. Thanks for commenting!
5 years later I stumble across this. Very good video and probably saved me a ton of money
Thanks! Glad to hear!
This channel is a real 💎. I am typing strongest glue for plastic and your channel show up, you are amazing, what you are doing is amazing. Thank you
Thanks and you are welcome!
Every time you do a test where you use J B Weld I am really amazed at how well it does! It is an amazing product! Thanks for all your tests!
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
@Carl Covey . . . If you ever find an old package of JB Weld, the written part on the back of the blister pack is a lot different than what is found on the current packaging; in that the old packaging had printed testimonials on the quality of the product, where I will transcribe it here:
_A part store in Waco, Texas repaired a 20 ton hydraulic jack with J-B WELD and saved $99.00._
_The city of Dallas, Texas, repaired a cracked Caterpillar engine block with J-B WELD and saved $4,000 plus 30 day down time._
_A Kansas farmer said, "I have used J-B WELD for more than five years on my farm equipment and I have decided that is is even better than baling wire."_
_A lady from Seattle repaired her cracked kitchen disposal with J-B WELD bought from her auto mechanic. She reports complete satisfaction with the results._
_In Dallas, a housewife saved her expensive stainless steel cookware set by repairing the heat damaged phenolic plastic handles with J-B WELD._
(To the left of the text were illustrations of the repaired items.)
The above text is no longer printed on the current packaging of J-B WELD. Instead, the space it taken up with bi-lingual instructions; specific usages for the product; and a lengthy description on the chemical hazards of the product, and the first-aid measures to take for skin contact.
@@bloqk16 What a great testimonial for J B Weld! I am very impressed with this product! Thank you for your response!
I'm continually amazed at the amount of work and time you take to save us a bunch of money and time buying the wrong product. Thank you very much for all the work you put into these videos.
You are welcome!
You have the best tool review videos of all time man. Production quality is second to none.
Thanks!
anytime i have a real life problem, and need something like this, your videos are there lol. thx for everything man
Thanks and you are welcome!
I was literally at the store at staring at locktight not sure if I should get it cuz I never heard of the brand. I got JB Weld instead. I’m considering getting locktight next. Thank you for putting the time & effort to making this video. It’s was very enjoyable to watch
Thanks and you are welcome!
I know this is 4 years old. However, I needed to do some plastic repair work. Guess where I went first? Project Farm! Thank you for giving me options and allowing me to decide what will fit my need. You're the best.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing!
still one of the best and most helpful channels. i wish you had a plastic to plastic epoxy test gonna be trying to repair my cracked dash with some just can't afford a new dash an really don't like the dash cover over lays either.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.