How to Restore/Fix/Repair a Cracked Vinyl Dash - Toyota Hilux Pickup/4Runner PART 1
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- I also restored another dash using different vinyl and it came out much better: • Part 2: How to Restore...
Here's how they both look after a one-year torture test: • What is the Best Way t...
How to Restore a Cracked Vinyl Dashboard WITHOUT Vinyl Wrap, using a Spray Texture Coating: • How to Restore Cracked...
Today I'm restoring an old cracked dash from a 1987 Toyota Pickup Truck using the following steps:
- grind the cracks into a V groove with a dremel
- enlarge vent openings
- fill cracks with long strand bondo
- fill smaller areas with regular bondo
- sand smooth
- apply adhesive to vinyl and dash
- wrap vinyl over dash
- trim excess vinyl
Products used:
Dremel 25 pc kit: amzn.to/3g0dWs3
or cheaper generic Dremel: amzn.to/3v0w1dK
Long-strand Filler, Quart: amzn.to/3pv5t34
Fiberglass filler, quart: amzn.to/3puF4T6
Spreaders: amzn.to/3ptttUi
Dupli-Color Prep Spray: amzn.to/3w3uKE2
Fast Tack 92 by Sprayway: amzn.to/3pCb08b
Xacto Knife: amzn.to/2SaQUps
80 Grit Sand Paper: amzn.to/3vXABuC
Heat Gun: amzn.to/3pwOtcX
Clamps, 4-pack: amzn.to/3vWsnmx
Dash Cap Links:
1979 -1983 Toyota Pickup without Side Defrost Vents: amzn.to/3uWu2Y1
1984-1986 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (long recessed area across dash top) amzn.to/3fTvCFM
1987-1988 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase) ebay.us/PVU7qd
1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: amzn.to/2T5rIkh
2003 - 2009 Toyota 4Runner with Speaker Holes: amzn.to/3ghX1Qy
I don't have Patreon or ask for donations but you can support the channel with some rad Yota gear from my store: 6thgeargarage.c...
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oh man...I know all the effort needed to get a result this good, I did this exact same work a couple years ago and made the same mistakes, It's really a lot of work. Great job!
This is by far the most sincere DIY video i've seen out there. For everyone of my projects I used to struggle afterwards because of selfdoubt due to the mistakes I made(most of the stuff was first time attempt) but this gives me confidence. Thank you very much for this very informative video!
So basically a diy video of a person trying to do something before actually watching a diy video.. what your saying is this person's failure makes you feel better for failing?
@@R.S.O. no. I'm saying it's good to internalize the fact that mistakes are part of the process and you shouldn't be discouraged when you make them. regroup and try again
It's a really fucking hard work on this stuff but after looks like a brand new 👏👏👌👍
I have to give you kudos for your patience and tenacity...thks..jc
Probably already figured this out now, but it's easier if you don't let the glue get quite to full tack, & start with the biggest recessed area first...and the 2nd vinyl is a better shade of grey in my opinion...🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Thanks for watching! I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Great video! Dovu think maybe u could have just filled in and deleted the Resist area that kept giving you the problems?
That recessed area is where an optional inclinometer cluster sits, so I wanted to keep it open, but when I restore the third dash, it's getting filled in!. I recently restored a second dash using spray foam + some better materials and it turned out great: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
I like the classic music,
Brother the problem is not on vinyl thin or thick, it is your dashboard which the alignment is not equal and the way you apply filler it is not going to give good result even if you sand it multiple times. When you're putting filler you must not shake or move upside down, the moment you applied filler you must make sure that all the corner of the dashboard is still intact, 2 filler code is enough if we put little more extra in the first code so that we can sand it according to original shape. Before applying vinyl we can apply 1 code of paint spray in order to level up or cover up any tiny holes.
dude, what do i have to do for one of those shirts....
They're for sale: 6thgeargarage.net/apparel-trucks/
You should got the dash painted, and get done with it and save money 💰
As a several-decade veteran of mobile audio fabrication, I can tell you - you WANT the thicker Marine-grade vinyl, and you want "so much heat my fingers are burning". There are tools that are made for rolling and pressing vinyl - you don't want to use your fingers.
The thin vinyl will just stretch-out, it's the extra material in the thick vinyl that allows you to stretch it. You could have avoided the seam on the side - thick vinyl stretches enough to pull right across that corner and not have a seam.
That dash recess is just a difficult stretch - your technique is fine with making a mold, and you were right to START with that recess. You didn't sand your mold smooth though, so you got texture. If you had sanded the texture out, you also would have created just enough clearance for the vinyl. Win/win.
Other than that - impressive to figure all this out on a first effort - really impressive. Great job.
Thanks for the tips!
Its a lot faster to use a can of spray foam insulation or sealant for filling the cracks instead of bono or fiber filler. Sets up rigid then block sand it down. Brush on liquid contact cement holds best. Use 4 way stretch textured vinyl and some gentle heat. Work from the center outward to the ends. Use lots of spring clamps along the edges. If possible staple the edges that extend around on the back side.
Thanks for the tips. I look forward to trying this again from everything I’ve learned in the comments.
Contact cement does not necessarily have the temperature resistance as headliner adhesive.
@@agrxdrowflow958 I like the idea of using the headliner spray glue. It might allow you to reposition it briefly as you work.
Spray foam insulation continues to expand for weeks. It would produce high spots where the cracks were. There is an expanding foam called X30 for marine and aircraft applications that cures differently. It doesn't continue to expand. It could be sanded and it would maintain the shape.
take a look at other glue options. 3m makes tons of different kinds of glue. i would have used a glue that allows retacking. i am no expert, but i know what using the right feels like compared to using something that is almost the right glue.
That's solved a 20 year old dilemma for me, I have a cracked dash to repair on a old 944, I currently have a spare which is also cracked so I will that first, cheers for the video.
Should have just repaired and redyed the dash. That’s what I did.
That dip "Trey" in the dash.. I would have just filled that in solid and smoothed it out to match the rest of the dash.. I can only imagine the vinyl in the sun on a hot day is just going to pop up.. you could have eliminated that problem just by filling it in..
Looking back, I wish I would have 👍
This is my first video of this channel and I'm amazed how much information one can put in one video I loved the fact that you showed how difficult a diy project can be and the mistakes to avoid when doing it yourself
Yeah.. .like another poster, cut out the center of that big tray and Wrap around the edge. Then take material and cover a board. Or a contrasting piece of material. Scrap vinyl but you're just worried about the white edges showing. Doesn't have to be removable. Solid plastic plate.
I remember doing this on my Mazda RX2 when I was 18 (in 1985). I sat the vinyl out in the sun for a while, and then over many hours I slowly and carefully pulled the material backing off the the new sheet of vinyl (started the edge off with a razor blade). I ended up with very sore fingers, but this left me with a super stretchy and thin vinyl. The dash came out almost perfect, although the RX2 dash pad is very simple. I firstly attached the rear edge with heaps of clothes pins, then carefully from the center out, stretched the vinyl to the front edge and attached clothes pegs along that edge. Any other clamps in the middle of the dash would leave an impression on ther, but it might slowly disappear?
I later did the same thing to a Mazda R100 which has a way more complex dash. It worked out well too.
The only issue I had later was the new vinyl off gassing in the Australian sun, which always left a fog inside the windshield that I had to clean off every week or so for the first few months.
AGREED...GAS IS GIVEN OFF BY VYNAL...VW's WERE NOTORIOUS FOR THIS...SO CAL DESERTS...WINDOWS MUST BE CLEANED EVERY WEEK...OILS...YUP...TY BROTHER...
@@bigsparky8888 Ditto Fiats: I had a '69 124 Sport Coupe that nastied up the windows: the gummy stuff was hard to get off.
Replace the dash with a new part...
Takes FAR less time and, all told, probably costs the same.
Use the time you save to work overtime and pay for it all!
Toyota doesn’t make these anymore. I recently restored another dash using brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better:
ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
I have used liquid tape the stuff you can coat wires with. It works fantastic. You can even get Color’s that are close to to Color of dash.
Good idea!! I recently restored another Toyota dash using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl and brush-on glue, and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Ok I watched entire video and you definitely deserve an A+ for effort! You demonstrated everything I want to try and more. I was rooting for you the entire time! If it wasn't for the top recess it would have turned out awesome at the beginning. VERY RESPECTABLE VIDEO THANK YOU!
Thanks!!! I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
When I have a difficult piece like this, I put the vinyl in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. It comes out very rubbery. A small heat lamp works well also.
Very good timing. I'm just starting on a 1988 single cab 4x4 and, of course the dash is cracked. I think I'll go with the replacement part versus home made. I have a grey interior, but I think I'll stay with the black for the contrast. That seems to be big in new cars. Most videos edit out all of they mistakes, thanks for keeping it real.
Have you thought about making a separate "tray" for the top of the recessed section? Maybe use the thick vinyl like the 1st attempt and carefully trim the "hole", leaving about a 1/2" overlap that can be pressed in with a custom tray? And making a tray using Kydex material. I make kydex sheaths and its originally used for molding interior panels for aircraft and marine applications. It can be heated and molded in place. Once molded and cooled, remove and cut to fit and do the final fit and finish. I have made lots of itrms with Kydex. I think it would look sharp! Also, with a minor modification, you can make the tray snap in or out for cleaning. Just an idea to deal with the molding issue plus to give it a little "upgrade".
I hadn't considered that, a removable tray!
I was thinking the same thing!!
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@@jaimecruzado1350 frwall)a)lllllllllllcooooooooooooollllllllllllyyyyyytttttttt
I subscribed when I heard OCD... lol I've got a 95 4runner and been working on it 3 yrs. OCD is required with these trucks. My dash is embarrassing! I think I'll give this a go... Nice vid man...
Around 17:00 it became clear to me that you didn't use a stretchable vinyl. Looks exactly the same as standard vinyl, but it stretches and holds that shape.
Using a steamer for clothes may help with re-adjusting, car shows that I've watched the upholstery guys use them
If you use a plastic mixing board, it makes mixing easier, and you lose less filler on the cardboard.
Its like doing a vinyl top, you dont put glue over the whole roof at once or you'd end up with wrinkles. Just do one area at a time and strech
the shipping is usually higher than the price for the dash on Ebay! for my 1984 buick lesabre the dash is 79.00 but the shipping is 179.00!
I have a 1975 Toyota Crown. As I live in New Zealand it is right hand drive. It had cracks in the dash and I repaired it in a very similar manner. I used a fabric backed 4 way stretch vinyl. The adhesive used was made by a company in NZ called CRC. It is similar to the product that you used. This is a very angular dash, but it came out very well
I think I have heard of CRC before, they have a protective lubricant called 6-56 that I've used before. Good product!
A corrugated cardboard mixing surface is not ideal for many reasons. A plastic surface is the way to go.
Great video. It's one of those things that you don't know how to do until you've done it. Kudos for pulling off the first vinyl and redoing it instead of just accepting the results.
Thanks to all the comments that are constructive with advise. Cheers.
That’s why God made Dash Covers…🤔
Thanks for going through all the trouble for me. You've worked through all the ideas I had for wrecked, BMW E30 dashes.
Alcantara may be the solution.
in this case, it is necessary to use hot glue and thermal vinyl. and the torpedo would have turned out like new
Fantastic dedication ! Thanks for the course in dash repair
The vinyl has reinforcement backing, this is why it doesn't stretch easily.
Don't remember the time I clicked on a video so fast... thank you for all the hard work you put into these videos.
Could swear I heard this background music in Kingdom Hearts.
This just gave me so much hope!!! Thank for this!
Pero ese material no se chaquea como los de las chevy. La chevy ponen mal material bazura
Yes been waiting for this video!
Look into dash pads online in Australia for the cruiser there a dime a dozen here even new zealand
Nice video. Maybe try and repair/paint the 80 series before going all in on wrap? On my way to testdrive an 80 series now!
The only problem I see with painting it is getting it to match and replicating the vinyl texture to blend with the factory vinyl finish. Then hoping that paint doesn't fade from the sun. Hope you get the 80!
@@6thGearGarage Hmmm... Could use a piece of vinyl to texturize the paint, while still wet and then use a satin clear to protect all of it from the sun (would have to paint the whole thing anyway). I passed on the 80 (was looking for a friend), someone snatched it up this morning. Market is crazy right now for anything 4wd.
@@indyjones3287
Love my 80, 12 years owned with 472 k km on the dial.
Goes anywhere, and never misses a beat. ❤️🇷🇴🇬🇧👍🏻
Congratulations... excellent... regards from Athens Greece..
Thanks! I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were better, but still had a little trouble with the recessed area: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Good job! Thanks for sharing. I need to do this on my truck, too. I'll try stretching the vinyl around the curves using heatgun before the adhesive phase.
I want to build up the recessed part on top because I don't want anything placed on the dash.
What do you guys think about using foam, maybe 3/8- inch thick, to fill most of it and filling smaller recesses with the Bondo?
I considered filling the recessed part as well. I would have dremeled away the vinyl first, then applied spray foam to build the area up, then for the last 1/4 or 1/8", used body filler. Maybe the long strand first for strength, then the smooth on top to finish it off.
With the bondo hardener, you should knead it in the tube before dispensing.
Thanks for making [& including] lots of mistakes-hopefully I can avoid all/most when I attempt dash recover.[for warned is etc etc]
I'd use a good release agent Pam. Ladies use it for cooking and it works.
Great job recovering that dash! Definitely worthwhile!
I don’t know if this would help you. When I cover speaker boxes, I had a problem with adhesive nozzles getting clogged. So what I would do is flip the can upside down and spray it into a trashcan wipe the tip off a little bit of rubbing alcohol. and that usually helped. And if I was worried about it getting too clogged before storage, remove nozzle I would soak it it a shot glass, then rinse it out with water before putting it up
Great idea on the soaking... thanks!
16th of an inch......BOY.ger rid of that nonsense system and go metric. There is a reason the whole car industry went metric. This looks like 0.8 to 1.0 mm......its that easy
Most of my audience watch from 'Murica... if you can't beat em, join em!
Now I know why I'd never attempt a job of this caliber. I doubt I would have done half this good. Just wondering though, is it possible to just use silicone or expanding foam to fill those cracks in?... then shave it down to match?... just an idea
Great idea! I recently restored another dash with spray foam, brush-on glue, and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
next time forget the vinyl wrap and instead use spray can product like Rust-Oleum pro grade truck liner aerosol. You can achieve the same texture as vinyl (practice first before spraying a dash.
Once it is dry you can then use spray can vinyl dye of your color of choice and once dry you can finish off with a matt or flat clear coat sealer. The result will be a pro factory finish as long as you spend time getting the dash perfect with prep work before spraying and this may require plastic bumper primer which you can sand
I've had a few people suggest I try that and I have another cracked dash for a future test :) I also restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were better, but still had a little trouble with the recessed area: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
You sure have a lot of patience reupholstering that dash. If i had to go thru all that trouble to lay down the vinyl and it didn't do what i wanted it to do I would of cut the dash in half and throw it into the trash. That dash your working on is tiny compared to the modern dash in late model vehicles.
Thanks... this was my first attempt and it did not hold up well over time. I restored another one with better glue and 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
I have an 84 sr5 and several years ago I was looking for a dash pad on Ebay and found a brand new one. they wanted $250.00 for it and I thought I would wait for them to lower the price. Big mistake I searched several times over the years and finally found one in fairly good shape and paid $400.00 for it.
Yep, I had a couple crack free dashes that I sold about 10 years ago for less than $100 each on ih8mud
SprayWayCustoms on UA-cam uses a guidecoat to help find the low spots in his work. He does custom interior and body work. Check out his channel! ua-cam.com/users/SprayWayCustoms
I'll check it out- thanks! Also, I did another Toyota dash using 4-way stretch vinyl and brush-on contact cement and it turned out much better: ua-cam.com/video/S-UPaYTFBlE/v-deo.html
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😁🤣😁🤣😁🤣 love your your ways of doing things!!
Partes para Toyota modelo 80 R 20 ocupo tapas de las 2 puertas y el tablero
You should be using "heat activated" upholstery glue! It will solve 99% of your problems. Or at a minimum brush on contact cement, and do small areas at a time. The spray glue is pretty much worthless.
Yes it is. I did another dash using wilwood brush-on contact cement and put them both in the summer heat for a test. The spray-on dash was peeling after a week.
A very difficult restoration. I have no advice. The end result was not as perfect as you would have liked but still acceptable. There is a bumper texture paint. May be worth a try. I have never used it.
Thanks for watching! I later restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were better, but still had a little trouble with the recessed area: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html Also I put both dashes through a torture test to see which products held up better and the second one was definitely the winner: ua-cam.com/video/ywkqTaHK2LA/v-deo.html
Remove the white on the back of the vinyl, it can be torn off. Then the vinyl can be shaped very well, it becomes very stretchy. Have renovated many dashboards. Sossemats from Sweden
Thanks, I had no idea it could be removed. I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were better, but still had a little trouble with the recessed area: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Use mineral spirits to clean up glue I use a paint spay gun for gluing
Just wanted to say , excellent job, also a Question, is the black “fungusey” looking stuff on the back like wood rot? Ie. unless you treat it, it will keep eating your dash?
Sorry a newbie question
The back side was metal, so it could have been some surface rust. It's not going to do any harm since it's inside the vehicle. It's not from road salt, just moisture in the air over the years.
Could you give a little more information on the particular vinyl you used in this video. The mil thickness would be a tremendous help. Thanks in advance.
Sorry I don’t know the mil thickness, it was what was available at the local Jo-Ann fabrics. It was meant for boat seats though, a little too thick for a dash.
Next time after the bundle spray ur dash with that Gray filler used in body and paint. After it dries I need to send it down with 120 _400 set sand paper for a smooth finish. Next spray your dash with a spray gun and desire color 2 or 3 applications then after it dries clean with tack clod if needed before applying 3 coats of clear and ur dash will come out professionally nice. It paint must be bought for plastic allocation of ask where u purchase ur base paint it it can be used as a dash finish which is plastic.
I was going for the OEM look but would like to try painting one to achieve a smooth finish. I think that would look good.
You could have smooth it with body filler and rubber texture spray paint. Putting the vinyl cover create more works plus you will see seams around corners when you finished.
I'd like to do another one using that method. I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were better, but still had a little trouble with the recessed area: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
HI I've had much better luck using brush on contact cement like Weldwood. the spray on stuff doesn't seem to have the holding ability. I use a heat gun too but many shops use steam, it doesn't over heat the vinyl.
Rich
I recently restored another Toyota dash using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl and the Weldwood brush-on glue you described, and the results were much better! ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Got a dash cover for my 85 toyota truck from jc whitney
I've wrapped vehicles for 10 years now and this may look good for a little while but it will eventually start lifting and looking like crap.Ive never seen anyone wrap a dash board.
I recently restored a second dash with 4-way stretch vinyl and brush on glue and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html Now I'm testing the two dashes in the summer heat and the first one is peeling up like you said. The second one is doing great though.
Also the cornor on the end of the passenger side is starting to pop up .
I wonder if you can cut the fabric thread on the back of the vinyl, the screen material to allow the top vinyl material to contract and expand with heat in the contours. Just thinking the screen backing is what holds the integrity of the vinyl.
I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html The 4-way stretch vinyl was the biggest improvement over this one.
How can I stop the cracks? Will 303 uv spray help it? I have a blue dash for my 93 4runner and want it to last. It has two tiny one starting but dont want it to spread.
I haven't tried 303 uv spray, but the only sure way is to park out of the sun. I apply baby oil to the dash of my 85 and it has not cracked.
I restored my dash with tick leather. What I learned is you should start in recess, but do it in few parts. Round bar is very good. Check how I did it without any edges cutting
ua-cam.com/video/_UDsUvE7ytY/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing!!
Hey buddy 2 things, 1is Australia has all the right hand drive 80 series dash covers you need and 2 is when you mix bondo do it on glass or a ceramic tile coz the hardener soaks into cardboard and you loose hardener.
Cheers Mic
Thanks for the tip! I wish shipping wasn't killer, I'll end up restoring the dash at some point. I recently did another truck dash with different materials and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
For the dash cap, do you suggest the accuform Amazon link? I noticed there’s a few other cheaper options like on eBay now
I have never used any of them, but I have heard good things about the Accuform cap. I've heard that other brands are cheaper but have poor fitment around the vent openings.
The curve:: I'm no expert but how about using the proper size can, and use the bottom of the can to help shape it. Beesides the can bottom can help remove putty.
The biggest problem was the marine vinyl. I restored another dash using 4-way stretch vinyl and brush on glue with better results ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
excellent job! I like it...maybe you could have left the bondo mold in the dash and make it a flat area on the dashboard...you are more courageous than me! nice!!!
That would have made life much easier! I recently restored another Toyota dash using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl and brush-on glue, and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Your bondo bar is definitely the good idea. Maybe putting the bar in an oven to about 190 degrees then lay it in place on top of some cheese cloth to help form your vinyl.
Great idea!
Do you have any videos on filling holes? I have a nice dash but the previous owner drilled holes for a CB mount I’d like to fill.
Here is another option: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html I used spray foam on this one and it saved a lot of time. But for something small like a screw hole, bondo would be just as fast.
Should have just used vinyl spray like plastidip
ive never used it before but i feel like 4 way stretch vinyl would have helped here but i liked that you left all the mistakes in the video it shows the reality of diy projects
I'd like to try another with 4-way stretch vinyl.
U supposed to start w that dip on dash first then work ur way out
Ok so far but I think it would be much easier and cleaner to make a whole new dash out of fibreglass. This is such a small dash, easy going. People in Asia make complete cars out of fibreglass
I've used fiberglass in small repairs, but never creating something from scratch. I would probably need a vacuum setup for that? Once I created a good mold though it would be pretty simple I'd think .
After watching you struggle wouldn't it be better to just spray it with raptor liner and you can also change the color of it to charcoal or something it wont look too bad and doesn't look like a hassle like wrapping it in vinyl
I think I;m going to try another one with that method
Next time use Allsport vinly its a 4 way stretch vinly … and glue in sections starting in that low spot that wouldnt lay down an glue and stretch out from their
I discovered 4-way stretch vinyl after this video. I did another dash using the 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
I wonder if you tried something like a piping bag for cake would let you put the filler in the cracks with a little more efficiently? Nice job on the dash.
that's a pretty good idea. I've been told spray foam works well too.
Great clip i watched. you mentioned that there was a plastic cover mold which can be glued. any info you can give me on where i can get those. i need it for my 07 sienna.
thanks
I haven’t seen any for an 07 sienna
maybe if you put the entire thing into a bag and apply a strong vacuume it to it,it will cause the vinal to form properly, keep in a vacuum until the glue sets.
That's a great idea, thanks! I recently restored another Toyota dash using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl and brush-on glue, and the results were much better! ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
With all the cost of materials, labor and the chance that the old vinyl will crack again and show through the new vinyl . I rather if available buy a new one or go to a salvage yard and get one if it's in good shape.
Toyota doesn't make them any more, but once in a while a nice Toyota dash shows up on ebay... and sells for $500+ Someone should start to reproduce these.
Glue a little bit at a time from middle out. Don’t use so much glue, let both sides get tacky, almost dry. Work material a few inches at a time.
I recently restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
For real, I'd have just filled that recessed part. I hate stuff laying on the dash anyway so I would never use it.
Thanks for watching! I later restored another dash using spray foam, brush on glue and 4-way stretch vinyl, and the results were better, but still had a little trouble with the recessed area: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html Also I put both dashes through a torture test to see which products held up better and the second one was definitely the winner: ua-cam.com/video/ywkqTaHK2LA/v-deo.html
I have a bubble in the tray injected it with vynal glue pop up again tried gorilla glue popping up again just going to buy a plastic cover lay dash cap 😑 it really pains me because my interior is mint .
I've had a couple that started to bubble up around that recessed area on top. I don't have a good solution for that either :(
Great video, thanks!!
I must be kind lazy. I would have just filled that silly tray. Delete!
Looking back, I should have just deleted it!
Just take a heat gun and blow hot air, the vinyl will take the shape.
I tried that in the video, but the vinyl was too thick for it to work everywhere. I used 4-way stretch vinyl on another dash and it didn't even need heat to stretch over the surface. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Before every one called it black magic. Lol
You should have evened out the bottom of the bondo mould to a smooth finish using acrylic puttu and sanding it.
Yes, I see what you mean. Here's an update on this dash, and another one I restored using different materials, after being through extreme heat and cold cycles. (Dash #1 failed miserably!) ua-cam.com/video/ywkqTaHK2LA/v-deo.html
Use contact cement I have been doing cars and boats for a long time that's the best way to stretch you vinyl keep using heat gun and gloves
I recently restored another dash using brush on contact cement and 4-way stretch vinyl and the results were much better:
ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Fill in the recessed area and make it level with the rest of the dash top. Anything you put there will fly off when you drive.
I wanted to keep the shape OEM because there's an optional altimeter/inclinometer cluster that fits in that recessed area. I restored another Toyota dash using 4-way stretch vinyl and brush on contact cement, and the results were MUCH better: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
I would have just painted the dash with a satin finish …..but I guess it depends on the level of restoration someone is wanting.
I’m going to do another video where I spray it with bed liner instead of using vinyl.