Inner & Outer Tie Rod Replacement on a '92-'01 Camry - DETAILED
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- This video is made as a guideline to show you how to change the inner and outer tie rods on a 1999 Toyota Camry, but this applies to pretty much all Toyotas, as well as most other cars.
I hope it was helpful!
Other related videos:
1999 Camry Valve Cover Gasket: • Valve Cover Gasket, Sp...
Tools used in this video:
Inner Tie Rod Remover Tool: a.co/7HktlDM
Ratchet: www.amazon.com...
12 Pt. Socket Set: www.amazon.com...
Breaker Bar: www.amazon.com...
Torque Wrench: www.harborfreig...
20V 1.5Ah Bauer Battery: www.harborfrei...
20V 3Ah Bauer Battery: www.harborfrei...
3 Ton Low Profile Jack: www.harborfrei...
3 Ton Craftsman Jack Stands: www.sears.com/...
Parts used in this video:
Inner Tie Rod: ACDELCO 46A2063A -- www.rockauto.c...
Outer Tie Rod: ACDELCO 46A0525A -- www.rockauto.c...
Music:
TULE - Fearless pt.II (feat. Chris Linton) ( • Lost Sky - Fearless pt... )
Jim Yosef & Anna Yvette - Linked ( • Jim Yosef & Anna Yvett... )
Jim Yosef - Imagine ( • Jim Yosef - Imagine [N... )
JPB - Get Over You ( • JPB - Get Over You (fe... )
Kisma - Fingertips ( • Kisma - Fingertips | H... )
RetroVision - Puzzle VIP ( • RetroVision - Puzzle V... )
Killabyte - Wicked Ways (ft. Danyka Nadeau) ( • Killabyte - Wicked Way... )
NIVIRO - Flares ( • NIVIRO - Flares | Hous... )
Please note that I am not a professional mechanic, nor am I saying that you have to do exactly what I say in this video. Perform these repairs at your own risk! Safety first ;)
Just replaced both inner and outer tie rods on my 1998 Camry CE 2.2L (317k miles). I watched this video several times and it made the job a lot easier since I knew what was to be expected. The most difficult part of the job was bending those locking washers back. I used parts and tools purchased off eBay and an alignment down the street for $180 total. The car handles amazing now. Thank you for this video.
That's awesome! I'm glad I was able to help!
Your video is amazing and very thorough and helpful. I’ll be doing the same on my 99 camry next week. Thanks again.
Thank you! I hope your repair goes smoothly!
Thanks for adding the info about adjusting the alignment by tape measure. This helped me get mine fairly close!
Instablaster.
Thanks for your great video. I love the idea of giving the spec so that we do it right without over fighting the nut, esp. for the new DIYer. Thanks again. God bless.
Thank you! I try to always give torque specs, even if sometimes I don't torque things haha
Great video! I think you're right about the ziptie lasting a long time. They might as well use those things from the factory! that inner metal band is basically only possible to do if you have the entire rack & pinion out, unless there's some special tool that will reach through that crap
Yeah they make a special tool but it's not worth it. If the zip tie only lasts 4-5 years just replace it.
@@AutoFixYT Oooh there's a special tool?? I need to buy it! 😅
Great video! Thank you for filming and sharing this.
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped !
Thank you for referencing the torque specs for the inner tie-rod and the outer tie-rod nut. By any chance, do you know what the torque spec is for the jam nut? Thank you?
I don't unfortunately. Should be somewhere around 30 ft-lbs I believe. But just make it nice and tight with a wrench or some big pliers and that should be just fine.
Very well done and demonstrated! 👍🤙
I had 12-to-6 and 9-3 movement on my 1999 Solara. Thought it was the wheel bearing. Took spindle off: bearing had backlash but no deflection meaning out-of-round hub.
I still have 9-3 in the tie-rod system. I ordered a front end kit online but it came without inners. The Toyota shop manua on page SR-32l calls an inner tie rod "Rack End".
No specification on movement of the rack end is provided but I will take any back and forth tugging play on the 'rack end' as being worn out. Also, the inner tie rod on my car does not hold its altitude like a good order one would.
So helpful was your video!
Thank you!
Yup that sounds like a bad inner tie rod! I actually have bad inner tie rods on my Corolla right now and I'm waiting for new parts. I'm gonna make a video about diagnosing and fixing that. It should be the same procedure as in this video but I'll be able to record the play as well as the noise it makes more clearly.
How about using a 19mm crowfoot wrench instead of a open end and a hammer? That way you can use the impact wrench. You can also use the crowfoot on the inside end. No antiseize on the outer tie rod end shaft or nut?
Ok I have a few things to say in response:
1. You can't use an impact on a crows foot, but it works very well with a breaker bar or ratchet! Also I don't have any crows foot wrenches lol
2. A crows foot on the inner joint works to tighten it, but a lot of times they're so tight that you can't use it to loosen it. So a different tool works better.
3. I wasn't as experienced back when I made this video and didn't know I should have put anti-seize on the tie rod threads. Now I always do. So yes, always coat them in anti-seize.
great video . just ordered my parts 99 Camry
Thank you!
Great job,very clearly and helpful, thank you !
I'm happy the video was helpful!
Is it normal to be able to move the NEW inner tie rod ball joint with minimal force, like in the video?
No it is not. There should be no play, the new part should be somewhat stiff actually. Make sure your outer tie rod doesn't also have play. If it doesn't and the new inner moves in and out, you have a faulty part, do not install it. Return it and get a new one.
very nice pro-auto work demo ! thanks your sharing video !
Thanks for watching!
ty for this! about to tackle this on my 96 avalon
Hope it all goes well!
Good video, man. It looks like you pulled that Toyota from the bottom of some river:) I like your list of links to parts and tools, very thoughtful. I learned that the name of that washer that bends over the end of a nut is called a lock washer and the castle nut is called castellated. Not trying to be a smart ass, just passing along stuff I learned. Next time, it would be helpful to show the operation of that inside inner tie rod clamp holding the boot, once it's off, so the next guy knows what he's dealing with when trying to pop it off. Good job, it was entertaining and will help me do my son's inner tie rod replacement. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated! I will keep what you said in mind for the next tie rod video. Good luck to you with the repair!
And btw you're right about the rust. The car sat for a number of years parked on the side of a driveway, on dirt. And well... that's what happens haha
That was really helpful, thanks !
Thanks! Glad it helped!
Great job. Well informed!
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful.
Do the inner and outer tie rods come pre-greased or do we need to grease them? If they already come pre-greased, is it enough or should we add more? Thank you!
Good question! Sometimes they will come pre-greased, sometimes they won't. If there is no grease then you have to add your own. Add some all purpose grease, caliper grease, bearing grease, whatever you may have. If it already comes greased but you think it's not enough, add more! Can't hurt. Just don't add too much so it doesn't get all over stuff and make a mess. Tie rods don't move around too much so there's not A LOT of movement going on. The outer tie rods sometimes come with a grease fitting to grease those too. Always add grease to them with ever oil change (that's what I do). If it's a sealed unit then don't worry about it. No greasing required.
Hope this helped and thanks for watching!
Did you ever do the oil pan gasket on this car? V6 right?
I did but I never filmed it. No this was the 4 cylinder engine. I did the oil pan on my V6 camry wagon too, didnt film that either lol
I'll be doing my tie rods in the next week or 2, thanks for the video!
@@alanprihoda7772 Awesome! You're welcome!
warning: if you're using a lisle inner tie rod tool, the locking ring on the tool itself has 'DO NOT USE IMPACT WRENCH' etched into it - you might be able to get away with it once especially since the need to replace tie rods for the average joe is once in a blue moon, but you probably shouldn't use an impact wrench if you do this on a more regular basis. Also another thing worth noting, the gen 3 ES300 manual mentions trying to avoid any impact to the rack when unstaking the claw washers. Worth mentioning because the Gen 3 ES300 steering rack is identical to gen 3 camry, at least for V6 models. Can't confirm with the 5S-FE models.
You are correct on both of those things. As for the impacts to the steering rack, that applies to any steering rack. A little is ok, I mean how much force do you think goes through it when you hit potholes? A lot... so a little vibration is ok. The bad thing to do is twisting it. You're not supposed to twist the rack. But then again you kinda have to so you can tighten and loosen the tie rods. So a little is ok. But in principle, you are correct
@@AutoFixYT also how did you stake the claw washers? There's hardly any room and I was really hoping this video would show how to do it without having to remove the entire rack. There doesn't seem to be any other video that shows how to stake it without special tools
Just bend it on one side. Use threadlocker on the tie rod, you'll be good to go 👍
Where can I get the rubber boot that goes on the inner tie rod? I bought a new tie rod but didn't get the rubber boot
See if your local auto parts store has one. It's called a bellow's boot
@@AutoFixYT ok thanks
Usually it's the oil pump seal that leaks on these camry's . I just replaced cam seal, crank seal, and oil pan gasket , and still had a leak. I disnt have the right tool to take off the oil pump sprocket or I would have replaced it as well. I also replaced the timing belt , tensioner , and idler pully while I was there. It all came in a kit off of eBay fairly cheap..50.00$.
Yes I actually did have to reseal the oil pump on this car. But it just so happened to have an oil pan gasket leak as well.
Thank you so much for this video
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!
What happens you don't know the thread count? And does the boot screw on?
If you don't know it then try to make the wheels as straight as possible but have the same or almost the same number of threads on both sides. Basically make it as symmetrical as possible with the wheels pointing straight. Eyeball it.
And no the boot should slip on over a lip and lock in.
Thanks for the torks and hints.
Glad I could help!
I know what it's like dealing with bad rust. I live in Southwestern Ontario. Where are you located?
Massachusetts, USA. It gets bad in the winter haha. I hate to admit it but it's starting to eat at my Corolla. I need to fix it before it eats my rear control arm brackets and my wheels fall off
Yeah it's frustrating to know that it's not the Snow but the Actual Salt Brine that is spread. Some places use beat juice as an alternative I've heard. Haha yeah you should of seen my Corollas rear sub frame. I finally sanded and applied heavy duty chemical Reforming paint.
Beat juice? That's interesting! Never heard of that before. I have a huge hole in my front subframe due to rust. I had to cut and weld in a patch. And... there's still more. But at least the majority of it is now fixed. I want to undercoat the car with rubberized undercoating before this winter. I can't afford more rust :)
Yeah Im sure there are plenty of alternatives but salt is cheap ;) I would just make sure to spray a chemical rust reform before under coating. Those rubber coatings can trap moisture making it worse. I'm about to change my fuel fill neck. Wish me luck.
damn do you live in the -rust- salt belt? am from australia so i've never seen a car this rusted lol
also with parts that need to be hammered loose it's always better to hammer the female side of the part (in the case of the outer tie rod, hammer the hub instead of the stud) as even with a nut over the stud there's a chance the threads will get stuffed
Yeah North American rust belt lol, this car is rusty but still not so bad. There's worse haha
And yes I agree, that's what I usually do but not when I throw away the tie rod. If I throw it away I'll beat it until it's out haha
great instruction.. thank you
Thank you!
Why not measure from the end of the rod to the outside of the nut?
You could
Ya know fella nice tie rod video but I’d be worried about that subframe being cracked 😳
Where do you see a crack on the subframe? It could just be a seam where two sheets of metal meet that looks like a crack due to my light
I was watching and saw the gaping hole in the frame and wanted to comment the same thing the tie rod should be the least an of his worries 😂😂😂
@@runningbear211 lol what hole are you talking about? Give me a timestamp for where you see it
@@AutoFixYT 8:11 center screen I really hate negative commits but I'm sorry but if you missed that you shouldn't be making videos on fixing cars
@@runningbear211 Oh I see it now, thanks for the timestamp. Gonna be honest with you, it's not my car so all I do is the work that I'm told to do. Not more not less, plus this is meant to be just an instructional video on tie rods so even if I did notice it which I'm sure I did (filmed this two years ago, I can't remember what I saw two year ago on someone's car), I wasn't gonna talk about it on video because it would be pointless for this particular video.
How do you bend the lock washer back over the inner tie rod end?
Use a hammer and a something to punch it over with. I used a screwdriver. You can use a chisel bit, or a pry bar, or really anything that is able to bend it over as you're hammering it
@@AutoFixYT I guess I'm just having a hard time imagining trying to hammer it from the other side where there is even less space.
It's tight to get a hammer in, so use channel lock pliers to bend it.
Whatever works!
Word of advise, if you are trying to give instructions it makes no sense to add music to the background!
Gotcha. Thanks for the feedback!
@@AutoFixYT Yes, that music is like a mosquito in the ear.
Music is fun
Thanks!
Where are you located cause I would like to pay you to hook me sir ?
I don't work for others, sorry!
Aw shit. I only watched this because I can't figure out how to bend in the claw washers after installation, and you left this part out :(
I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna and it's also super cramped.
I was only able to bend in 1 of the 4 corners from under the car. The corner opposite of the one I bent in seems impossible for access. They say you're supposed to bend in at least 2 opposing corners. I spent 2 hours failing at life at this part before I had to go to work. I usually like Toyota's designs for somewhat ease of maintenance, but this claw washer part is not our friend.
I'm thinking of seeing if Home Depot has a smaller pipe wrench that I can fit over the edge of the washer and maybe hammer the pipe wrench handle. That's just a thought.. we will see :(
If you still have the car apart, just use some thread locker and forget the washer. Or keep it and use thread locker and bend it in only one spot. To be honest if you make it tight, it's not coming off. If you bend it on one side really well, you're good to go. And like I said if you still feel like it's not enough just use red thread locker on the inner tie rod to the rack. I've done that plenty of times before
@@AutoFixYT I used my Earthquake XT 1/2 impact from harbor freight. Just a quick blast with the OEM Tools Inner Tie Rod Tool. No thread locker though. I'd rather not disassemble again. I checked with a torque wrench to make sure it was at least at spec. It's probably much higher torque after the blast of the gun. The OCD person in me would like to bend the other side. I really wanted to get the alignment done tomorrow, so I might just call it quits on perfection so I can get on with my life, if the small pipe wrench / hammering idea doesn't seem like it'll work.
@@nikovandh If it's tight and bent on one side, you should be good.
Great information.
Background music simply annoying.
Thanks, and yeah I know. It's an old video. Can't remove it now...
Excellent video but please delete the music....
what a rust bucket .. where do you live? they must use some harsh stuff on the roads .. wow .. really rusted
Yup, it's sad. Massachusetts. They overuse road salt in the winter and this is the result. Good cars get ruined and even new cars have rust after only a few years. Only surface rust, but still. Anywhere else they can look brand new after 20 years
After all, it's not an easy job as you originally said. rightly;
It's not very easy but it's not very hard either and it's better than spending all the necessary money to have someone else do it
@@AutoFixYT For this job you will need a special tool that is not easy to find. You also have to adjust the wheel correctly, which is a bit difficult because you get confused. And what counts in this adjust is the accuracy of the turns.
@@YiannisPagonis indeed you are correct
Oh no... 😖
Oh no?
@@AutoFixYT couldve counted the total full rotations it took to remove tie rods and bolt and took it into count when reinstalling for 1 🥴
@@LonleyJulian 6:14
What a great job you did making this vid.thank you
Thank you!