Toyota Front Wheel Hub & Bearing Replacement - 92' - 04' Camry, Avalon & Solara
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- Опубліковано 6 лис 2020
- This video will show you how I replaced the front wheel hub and bearing on a 1999 Toyota Camry V6. The replacement video was made possible by GMB Corporation who was kind enough to provide OE (Original Equipment) quality replacement parts to perform this service. GMB is a Japanese auto parts manufacturer established in 1943 and maintains a global presence in the auto parts industry. Thank You GMB!
The wheel bearing is recessed and pressed fitted into the steering knuckle and the wheel hub pressed into the inner race of the wheel bearing. The GMB provided FWD wheel hub and bearing came together as a kit. The kit used in this video can be applied to a 95' - 04' Avalon, 02' - 03' Camry and 99' - 03' Solara. To perform this job, you will need: 1. High torque impact tool with a 32 mm 6 point socket 2. Wheel Bearing Service Kit. 3. Slide hammer with a hub adapter. 4. Snap ring pliers to compress a snap ring. 5. Torque wrench rated to 180 lbs.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/HardlyMoving?locale...
If interested, here's another way to press out and in bearings with portable hydraulic pressure:
• Replace Front Wheel Hu...
Parts & Specialty Tools:
GMB Parts Look Up
www.gmb.net/
GMB 770-0173 Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly
(Fits: 05 - 04 Avalon, 92 - 03 Camry & 99 - 03 Solara)
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Toyota Camry, Avalon, Solara & Lexus ES 300 1997 thru 2001 Haynes Repair Manual 1st Edition
amzn.to/3qf8rto
Lisle 39510 30mm Axle Nut Socket
amzn.to/3lfQuYc
Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Puller Kit W/Grade 8 Drive Bolt
amzn.to/2Uvstio
Slide Hammer Puller Set:
amzn.to/2FazwI6
16 Inches Heavy Duty Snap-Ring Pliers:
amzn.to/36lZmFe
Milwaukee 2767-22 Fuel High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring Kit (This is the super high torque impact tool that generates over 1400 lbs of nut busting torque! A lot more than the one used in this video!)
amzn.to/2MzfKIW
Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (if you have M18 battery packs - bare tool - no battery)
amzn.to/35kOBS9
Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
amzn.to/2F57ldk
As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
#wheelbearing #GMB #frontwheelbearing
That’s the best car repair video I’ve ever seen , top man
Glad you liked it!
Your videos are helping me a ton with fixing my friend's Solara. I like the straight to the point, no BS intro format!
Glad to hear! Thanks for your post and support!
Hardly Moving Productions is the Japan hup quality is good one instead of genuine one ???
Hardly Moving Productions is it to replace new hup with new bearing or there is no problem with using old hup with new bearing ????
Harlem nights fight seen vera
@@hardlymovingpro ...you didnt install the outer and inner seals. I noticed there werent any when you removed the bearing inner dust ring... no wonder the bearing went bad,,,,
I’ve got the same 2000 es300 and your videos are terrific, saved me thousands in labor repairs. Do it myself lol. Thank you so much
Great to hear and thanks for sharing!
Thank you sir for this excellent video 👍 Next time I replace one I’ll definitely use your method. Last time I replaced a hub bearing, I removed it with a press. Your method is much simpler and easier 😁
Thanks!
Just wanted to mention that I did buy the Harbor Freight hydraulic punch, and it works great my wheel bearing adapter kit. That was so freakin' creative of you, to think to combine the two like that. I am so impressed! Also I'm surprised that someone doesn't sell a combo kit (adapters, and hydraulic unit).
So thanks so much for this tip/idea. You are a top shelf mechanic in my book!
Sorry ... just saw your post! I did approach some of my sponsors on making a combo kit. They weren't interested.
I have an 02 Camry and try to all my own work. Learned just about everything I know and I’ve done on UA-cam! Your videos are great. I recently snapped 2 of my lug nuts off and instead of having someone charge me $160 PER bolt to grind and weld a new nub on, I’m going to attempt to replace the whole disc with all 5 new ones! Daytona Bch is expensive!!!
But thanks to this video, I now know what tools I’ll need and how to do it.
Thanks again!!!
Maybe this video can help: ua-cam.com/video/2xQRTmUIbeU/v-deo.html
Thanks for this, and Thankyou for actually showing the install after removing bearing. Many vids only show tear down and assume the install isn’t needed. I’m very mechanically inclined but since mechanic isn’t my trade, I need all the help I can get and I’m sure there’s many people out there that need it more than I do! Keep doing your thing sir!
Glad it helped!
I miss the days of old fashioned tapered roller bearings. They are so much easier to replace! Thanks for the video. Huge help while working on my 97 Camry.
97' Camry is a old dog now but keeps on truckin'?
It's so much more satisfying and cost effective to do yourself. Thank you.
Absolutely!
Thanks for all of your videos boss, I enjoy watching your work, and I’ve learned a lot too, thank you sir.
Very welcome!
Excellent video of replacing and pressing in a new wheel bearing while on car. No press required.
Thanks! Here's a makeshift kit I constructed to make it even easier: ua-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/v-deo.html
Great video! Straight to the point with good explanations and instructions. Some other videos make it too complicated by their commentary. This will help me with my Rav4 04
Thanks!
Awesome Video. He is the real deal! Keep up the quality work man.
Appreciate it! Will do.
You have a new sub. It's easy to learn and definitely great content and quality
You bet!
Thank you. Very informative and straight to the point.
You bet!
You made this look too easy. Great work.
Thanks!
Great illustration !! Great job !!
Thanks! Appreciate your post!
Its nice to have the proper tools
You said it!
Great video. Doing it right 👍
May need an alignment if it hadn't had one recently .
Thanks for all the info and sweet price on Amazon tools.
Glad to help!
Thank you for helping me fix my car
You bet!
Always love your videos even just watching for fun!
You bet and thanks for your post!
Most I don’t mind doing myself. I greatly appreciate you taking the time to post this! (But I’ll send this to a shop.)
Understand. Not for everyone but at least you know what's involved.
this tutorial helped perfect for my 2016 toyota camry thanks a ton!
all other tutorials have been using hydraulic presses and i did this in my garage with a tool rented from autozone just like the one in the video
Here's a video where I used a makeshift press to press out the bearing:
ua-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/v-deo.html
Outstanding work...thanks
Thanks and you bet!
Awesome video, extremely helpful.
Glad to hear it! 😊
Excellent video....I really liked how you fast forwarded - when you did. Made the viewing much more fun to follow. Just show the "meat" - which is what you did....thanks!
Just one thought about these, and other Toyotas.....You can unbolt the ball joint at the bottom, instead of undoing the strut bolts. Sometimes, on some models, either a different size bolt, or an eccentric one is used for the strut, and the camber is set with that. If you undo the BJ (just 3 bolts) you get about the same freedom of movement (to pull the axle out of the hub) too, without risking the alignment being disturbed. For what that's worth.....
Thanks for you comments! I use to unbolt from the bottom. Found unbolting from the top easier and doesn't affect alignment.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, you are right.....Just saying, THE way to adjust camber is to either use a smaller diameter bolt as the lower of the two bolts for the strut (and this IS per Toyota shop manual), or put an eccentric bolt in there. IF they did NOT do this, and the two original, full size bolts are there, then yes, just removing them will not affect the alignment.
I did that a few days ago in my 07 Camry, I have to do one in my Avalon next. I bought a similar bearing tool set for a little over $50 online, works awesome. I find it easier to just remove the entire knuckle off the car and clamp it to the vise on a work bench though.
That'll work and I've done that too!
Great Video, great information- thank you ! ! !
Thanks!
Thanks for your sharing knowledge 😊!
You bet!
Thank you for a great and educational video very well explained 👏 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice job on explaining this. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful. Thanks
Glad it helped you out!
Excellent video.
Glad you liked it!
Out class work and tools
Thanks!
Great video, and excellent job 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I agree that truly was a good video. Very informative 👏.. Wade Out..
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video..thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice one !!! Thank you :)
Glad you like it!
NICE JOB!
Thanks!
really good video
Thanks!
Good job sir
Thanks!
Awesomeness!!!
Thanks!!
thanks for the video, very good as usual. Quick question, sometimes i am confused which way bearing to be taken out (meaning pulled outside towards you, or pulled inward out of you). any tips.. can i assume that where every spring clamp is removed, that is the side bearing have to be taken out.. ?
It all depends on the manufacturer's design. On Toyota (Lexus) vehicles, there's a lip on the outside outer hole of the knuckle (facing you) to prevent the bearing from coming out. The other side of the knuckle hole (with the snap ring) is where the bearing gets pressed out or in. The snap ring, once removed, allows the bearing to be pressed in or out.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you, does all manufacture has lip on either side of knuckle and snap ring.
Very helpful
Glad it helped!
Putting the new bearing in the freezer for about a half hour helps the installation greatly. Also the spindle after the bearing has warmed up.
Yes you're correct. Freezing the bearing makes the bearing slide in easier. No need on the hub/spindle.
Awesome video. I'm hoping you can offer some advice... i just changed my hub & bearing, but now my car sounds louder... like a whirling noise when i speed up. Before it used to only be like a hum... or howling... not to noticeable (only by me cuz I know my car) but now it's very noticeable (sounds like a race car inside). Would I have perhaps damaged the bearing? I did everything much much like you did (except using an impact gun).
It's either low quality bearings, the hub isn't completely seated against the cv housing (re torque the axle nut) or the bearings have been damaged during installation.
Ty great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
The link for the 16" HD Clip Pliers is showing "Currently Unavailable"; you may want to update to another similar product.
Great job as usual on the video!
Let me check. thanks!
Updated with same product. The price is good with 4.5 star rating. Looks like the one I have.
Hello friend .
Today I took my 006 sienna for inspection ,they reject me for the left front bearing , they said it loose ok .I brought it home , i jack the van , it had up & down movement # 1/4 , I bought them . Tonight I was checking , i had hope you the Master have something , at 9 pm it was you 🙂🥰 I said thank you LORD❤❤ . I need to find a place to rent the tool . but I shall watch your video till it regesters in my old brain .Indeed you are the greatest , for real .
MY LORD❤❤❤ be with you ✟✟✟👌🙏🙌 💟 THANK YOU .✌🙌🙏🇺🇸
Bearings make a lot of noise when worn.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks . They try to creat job ,when they looked at all my gray hairs & no teeth , they got me wrong . I said I & my wife❤❤❤ we fix it thank you young man . He left to inspector while he was shaking his head☃️ .Sorry he could not catch the 🐟🐟🐟 fish 🙂🪰🪰🦭
When you have 2 kidoes at college , with all those high prices ,it leaves us nothing . As my wife❤❤ always says : don't worry be happy things get better , just smile 😂 🤣🥰 ✟✟✟💨📡🗽. LORD❤❤ be with you sir 🙏🙌👌great mechanic 🕊️🕊️🕊️🦅
11:48 that's a handy trick, I was struggling to put the brake caliper on with thr disk dancing around.
Glad you found it useful!
Confirmed will hire a pro
You can always buy a hub, bearing and knuckle combo ... but they're not cheap.
Thank you
You bet!
Hi there, thx for a very and well explained video, but didn't hear well the torque of your gun, wondering what's the minimum that I could use. Thanks.
For the axle nut, around 180 lbs
Thanks !
You bet!
V nyc sir. Thanks sir.
Most welcome!
GOOD VIDEO THANKS /I HAVE 3/4 IMPACT WRENCH AND YOU CAN DO THE JOB FASTER LIKE YOU
You're right ... the more torque the better! I'll be putting out a video soon where I'm using a portable hydraulic pump attached to the forcing screw. Works like a charm!
Do you know if that bearing remover/installer kit bushing adapters will work for removing pressed in lower ball joints with the C-clamp tool, such as for a 05 crv? The autozone here doesn't have all the sleeves and adapters.
Nope. Cannot re-purpose the bearing remover/installer tool for pressing out lower ball joints.
I used a puller kit around the same price that said Not to you an impact wrench, which I did used and messed up the bolts.
How this tool worked it with the impact wrench???
Did you torque on the bolt head or the nut? If you had torqued on the nut instead of the bolt head, the bolt more than likely would not have messed up.
Awesome video. What kind of shock struts are those red ones and where did you buy them? Thanks
Thanks! Gabriels. Blowout sale on rockauto.com. Only 30 day warranty though.
How do you like the shocks so far? The price point is affordable. Was it worth it?
In your experience have you ever come across the splines in the hub that are so worn that it requires renewing?I have 196 k miles on my sienna and will be changing out the front wheel bearings soon as well as the axles. I will be installing genuine toyota axles. So I was wondering if it makes sense at all to put new oem hub as well or reuse the old ones. Thoughts?
Not wear but rather corrosion that prevents the axle shaft from separating for the hub during servicing. From my experience, high miles and age do not wear out wheel bearings on Toyota's; rather continuous driving with unbalance wheels or out-of-round tires.
@@hardlymovingpro As always , thank you for your response. Fortunately I'm in South Florida and don't have the corrosion issue like vehicles where roads are salted during winter. I have changed out the axles before due to failed boots and did not have any difficulty them from the hub. I made sure to lubricate the splines generously during installation. What are your thoughts about front wheel bearings wearing with mileage. Do the bearings pretty much hold up its till they fail for whatever reason? With the after market axles I find , even when new, that there is some vibration especially when accelerating or when driving up slopes as in mountainous areas. My suspension components are all good LCAs, ball joints , tie rod ends and so forth. There is consensus in many forums that toyotas are very " sensitive" to the kind of axles installed. So in essences my query regarding the bearings is whether to preemptively change them at the time of axle installation. With a history of second generation having to change front wheel bearings between 120 -175 k miles I just wonder if it makes sense. I don't want to "double work" . My time is free however and thanks to you the average DIYer can accomplish many maitenace tasks due to your excellent videos
Hello. Wat is the tools thats in the red box called? Also is a regular rachet or wrench able to take out the bearing if u dont have a torque gun or drill? Thx & wud appreciate ur response. Great work!!!!!
I have two red tool boxes: one is for my 1/2" metric impact sockets and the other for my bear press adapters. Next to impossible to work out those bearings with a regular ratchet. It takes A LOT of torque. See the "show more" section of this video to get more info.
Great video for what I need to do on my 2003 ES300! Since you are nice enough to answer everyone's question. Let me ask: can the old hub be reused? If so, is it easy to remove the remnant of the old bearing stuck on it when being pulled out of knuckle? Is any special tool needed to remove this? If this is possible, I want to buy only the OEM bearing ($100) to save cost. I would appreciate your reply. Thanks
Thanks and here's the video on how to remove the inner race from the hub: ua-cam.com/video/I4P3T-cb7rg/v-deo.html
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you very much for quick reply. Fortunately on Amazon, I found hub and bearing set at good price made by KOYO, Japanese co I trust.
How are the Gmb bearings and hub performing and how many miles you have put on them
GMB is a Japanese company and their quality is on par with Koyo ...but cheaper...IMHO
so over here in my country, they open Up the bearing to add grease to it.... it's a common practice here
I'm about to buy an OEM bearing for about a $100 please is it wise to open it up for greasing?
Would be too time consuming for me.
Very nice video and what a hassle Toyota!
However, Aren't you supposed to use a torque wrench on the axle nut?
Sure ... if you can find one that goes above 180 lbs of torque.
Looks like you have all the tools .
After you've done a few of the jobs, you know what tools to have.
same procedure on Lexus 2008 RX400H? also i'm using KOYO replacement wheel bearings, does it matter which side the bearings slide in first? what's the deal with the magnetic side of bearings must go in certain way or it doesn't matter on my model?
Yes ... procedure is the same on the RX400H. Koyo is an excellent brand. Doesn't matter what side you put in first. Toyota doesn't use magnetized bearings like Honda and BMW for example.
would this work on my 96 avalon? im trying to replace my control arm and ive stripped the castle nut on my ball joint. ive tried removing the dust shield like him at 3:39 and no luck. is it not removable or am i not trying hard enough? thanks for any help
Yes it would. This video covers from 1992 to 2004. If you stripped the ball joint castle nut, I'd remove the knuckle off the control arm and work on removing the joint on a shop bench.
@@hardlymovingpro ok ill try harder to remove the dust shield as it gets in the way of my socket. thanks for the reply!
I have a question if you are still answering so on my 2000 Toyota Camry even when the axle nut is torqued to spec (217 ft-lbs) and have a locking cap and cotter pin in place it still comes unloose even with the new wheel bearing and I found metal shavings inside of the wheel bearing where the grease is at I know the bearing is bad but idk if that’s the only problem any help?
Could be a low quality after market bearing.
Do I have to use the slide hammer to get the hub off or should I just use a good ol Regular hammer to bang the hub off since I'm replacing it anyway..?
Hammer won't work. Use a slide hammer.
I got the 5 lb slide hammer and tried countless banging but the hub would not budge. Any suggestion? Thanks
Try applying heat to the shaft (propane or acetlyn torch).
Do you always have to do alignment when you replace struts or anytime camber is involved?
Don't have that problem with Toyota vehicles.
Grabbing one of those Maddox 19 pc. Bearing press kits for $40 tomorow now I just need to pick a good slide hammer. Scamazon has one branded gear wrench for $85 but they have others that look identical for $60-70
Would you recommend replacing the hub and not reusing the old one?
If a new hub can't be had for a reasonable price, I'll reuse the old hub. You can rent a slide hammer for free from most national retail auto chains.
@@hardlymovingpro I’m just gonna get the Orion motor tools from Amazon for $68 maybe spring for the gear wrench labeled one for $85. I have a feeling they are made by the same manufacturer as harbor freights version. I like adding to my tool collection. I also found someone near me selling a new hub and bearing for $15 but I am leaning towards doing both sides and getting 2 sets of ac delco bearings and $20 hubs all in with tools and parts I’ll be looking at $240. Is one of those HD circlip tools necessary or can I make due with some needle nose pliers and extra curse words?
Greetings, how have you been with these bearings,
mine are ringing, I want to change it and I have seen it in the market.
is it worth buying?
GMB bearings are very good with a good price.
Question, could you do this if you dont have that kind of impact like by hand with breaker bars?
Possible but would be time consuming and physically tiring.
barring in the freezer helps alot but you gotta work fast
I hear ya!
Just wanted to give everyone a heads up: I bought the Astro 78825 XL “Master Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit” that is linked in the description and it is of very low quality. I got the job done but my 1/2” Milwaukee impact absolutely destroyed the adapter plates, washers, hex nut (forcing screw) and nut adapter. There was metal shavings and dust flying EVERYWHERE. I had to stop to blow out the hub bore every 30 seconds so that the metal dust doesn’t get trapped in there between the new bearing and hub surface.. If you can afford something better like OTC, or even rent an OTC adapter kit at a parts store, go that route. Astro’s warranty is only 1-year from date of first use, but once that’s gone the tools will still fail under the same conditions.
Thanks for sharing your story. I don't use a impact gun anymore for servicing pressed in bearings. Too much wear and tear on tools. However I now use a portable hydraulic pump. Much easier and less noisy! Here's the video on how I use it: ua-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/v-deo.html
@@hardlymovingpro Hi, thanks for the response. Does the hydraulic punch kit cause wear marks or imprints on the Astro adapter kit?
Finally got a craftsman slide hammer kit, the Maddox bearing press kit and a picking up a new hub and bearing later today. Going to be doing this job this afternoon. I’m hoping my 500 lbs/ft ryobi p262 impact will be enough to press that bearing out. I’ll be finding out this afternoon. Otherwise I’ll be using a breaker bar and a cheater and lots of cursing for elbow grease. I’ve seen someone do this with an older HF half inch earthquake that put out around 550 lbs/ft so I think I should be good.
Good luck and let us know how it worked out!
@@hardlymovingpro learned a valuable lesson today. Make sure your parts are correct / the cv axle spindle fits the hub spline before you begin assembly. The hub and bearing I purchased were for a Corolla. The bearing was right but the spline in the hub was about 1/4” too small and I didn’t realize it until it was too late. Also I think I purchased a counterfeit timken bearing or maybe I was pressing in the bearing a bit cockeyed and the 2 dozen hammer smacks on the knuckle didn’t correct the trajectory. I totally destroyed the threads on the forcing screw so I had to take the knuckle off and use my 3# metal mallet to pound it the rest of the way with one of the press plates in between the bearing face and hammer blows. when I pounded the hub spindle in it seemed like the bearing had split down the middle and pushed through the back side. I pounded it back together and it was noisy when I spun it. I was going to assemble it ride the car to a junkyard tomorow and grab a loaded knuckle off a 2008 sienna for $55 but it looks like I’ll be taking a bus tomorow.
I believe the press I got was the old pitsburgh model before they upgraded to Maddox. I bought it a month and change ago which is unfortunate because recently someone posted a used Astro pneumatic set on marketplace which supposedly has a much better quality forcing screw. My impact was just barely strong enough to do the work. If I had more cash I definitely would have gotten a hydraulic knock out punch or the high torque ryobi impact. But looks like I’ll be buying a forcing screw and nut to replace the ruined one unless I can get harbor freight to warranty this out.
I’ll definitely be doing this task again on the passenger side before that bearing fails and now I know what to look for and what not to do it will be much easier. The craftsman slide hammer kit was very high quality for the $140 out the door price. But I was very disappointed in the quality of the harbor freight FWD bearing press kit. Hopefully I can get it warrantied out and the new Maddox one is better.
Could you essentially use a ball joint press tool and the associated fittings to do this job?
The c clamp of the ball joint press tool would be too weak
@@hardlymovingprooh wow so this bearing that’s in the knuckle must be in there with tremendous pressure?
Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/v-deo.html
Did replacing the bearings solve the noise issue ? I have this exact same noise on my Camry but I’m thinking it’s the cv axle since the boots are ripped
Yes ... absolutely. A torn CV boot that's not replaced is a ticking time bomb.
@@hardlymovingpro well if it’s not the axle making that noise I might just have to replace the bearing .. I really can’t afford both
Will an alignment be required after this repair?
Haven't encountered a need for re-alignment with detached Toyota struts.
Anyone know the part number to the spindle nut retainer clip that goes over the spindle nut
You can live without the clip. Just install a new cotter pin. Never seen a spindle nut come loose.
Does this part# work for the 93' Lexus ES300? A reply would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
What part #?
@@hardlymovingpro The wheel hub assembly you are using in the video. 770-0173 on the box at the start of the video
this process is more or less the same on a 2006 camry am i correct in assuming that? everything looks the same pretty much
Yes ... you are correct.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for your response. can you freeze the bearing to make it easier to install with this method or no?
I don't have an impact can I do this by hand if I need to
You could be would be difficult and labor intensive.
How long have those GMB bearings lasted u?
As good as OEM! Keep your wheel balance and they'll last a long time.
I notice the slide hammer puller is being used incorrectly. One of the nuts on the shaft should be installed behind the bolt adapter and tightened. Then when using the hammer, the impacts will not be only on the shaft threads alone. Instead, the pull force will be on both the nut and threads together. That is why they provide two nuts.
Makes sense and thanks for sharing!
One problem I ran into was after removing the spindle/hub assembly the inner race came out with the hub assembly and the seal remained attached to the bearing and hub bore. The seal needs to be removed otherwise it will create resistance trying to press out bearing because the seal is distorted and binds and interferes with the removal of the remainder of the press in bearing. Once removed the process worked accordingly.
Thanks for sharing you experience!
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you your video was a good help. My repair was on a sealed bearing assembly.
Did you use a bushing press tool?
yes.
Does this apply to the es300 96? Is there any reason i cant take spindle of and use a stationary press? I know you did a es300 rebuild. I enjoyed it and helpful. Did i miss the video on es300 bearings.
Yes. Identical repair method. Hub and bearing size may be slightly different. I have a stationary stand alone press but made this video for those that don't have the press stand. The ES300 didn't have worn out front bearings.
I like you video. and I want to buy tools for take out bearing
A tools list is in the video description.
What is the set of adapters called so I can get one from auto zone
Hub bearing service kit. Don't think AutoZone carries them.
It’s this the same for the rear right side ? Please let me know thanks
Completely different.
@@hardlymovingpro would you happen to have an video sir ?
@@peachyfuzz6970 ua-cam.com/video/Bot4Bk7DSW8/v-deo.html
@@hardlymovingpro thank your sir
If you leave the strut attached, you won't need an alignment when you're done. It's not hard to do with it still attached.
You won't need a realignment if detaching and re-attaching the strut. Been my experience with Toyota's.
Wow
Thanks!
What is the tool that pressed the bearing out called
Front Wheel Hub Drive Bearing Removal Install Tool
One question.....you removed the snap ring and showed a very clear picture of that. It was clear that the snap ring tool you used had to be more than 12", and closer to 15" long. You listed the tool as a Channel 927 lock 8" pair.....that had to be a mistake, right?
Very good! You're paying attention and you're absolutely correct. I'll place a link to the HD self locking snap ring pliers. Was waiting for someone to catch that mistake.
Okay ... provided a link to a 16" heavy duty snap ring pliers set.
@@hardlymovingpro Hey.....THE reason I caught it, is because I have removed those Toyota snap rings before....and they are FIERCE! Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro I used CTA tools 4028, which are made specifically for these rings. And ironically they are smaller, not more than 8-9", but they work great. Here: www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-4028-Toyota-Bearing/dp/B00JHKZF4U/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=cta+tools+4028&qid=1604889879&sr=8-1
@@stephenbay9564 understand ... But I like my HD's because they have a locking feature.
1:11 looks like its time for some new rotors ... There's a ton of deep grooves/scratches all the way around of it
Good observation!
Where is GMB made and are they reliable ? Better than Moog ?
GMB is a Japanese manufacturer with world wide production and distribution facilities. I think the quality of Moog isn't what it used to be.