Decent video, My '05 LLY has made it to 741,000 miles on the original CP3 and still going. I did the injectors (with new ones) about 610k but I am on the second FPR and have 2 spares. Anything in the valley is tough to get to.
Thanks for that little tidbit of information. I would love to know that I don’t have to do my CP three every 120 it’s nice to hear that one made it and it’s still going. If you don’t mind me asking what was the reason you needed to do the regulator
@@joshlogan5233 the regulator develops a sticky spot (the plunger inside moves constantly) so at idle the pressure can shoot from 4k to above 6k which causes the engine to surge. Mostly annoying at first but I havenheard of others having to hold the brakes hard to keep still at a light. I replaced it with a cheaper one and it worked fine, now after several years it has a random slight surge when cold... but for the savings I have 2 extra on hand. They are either really, really good copies of Bosch regulators or real ones wholesale. I do add a bit of 2 stroke oil and injector cleaner every several months. The fuel lines did have a decent amount of buildup inside after 610k miles so the injector cleaner is a good thing regularly.
@@joshlogan5233 By the way, it is impossible to diagnose the fuel pump or injectors with a bad regulator, it will throw off balance rates and other tests. Asmper the oem manual, you must first establish a steady fuel pressure.
Well my 2008 Duramax just started and then shut down as I was pulling out of my driveway with my trailer . Now I’m gonno replace the fuel filter n elements to it but if that don’t work this might be my next step and I enjoyed how thoroughly ya explained it .
@@ryley2331 this week I’ll hopefully have the money to send it to the shop . I’ve got to many back injuries to be bent over trying to work for a several days on it .
@@eddiereyna2998 fair enough thanks for the reply, just tore my CP3 out. Going to install now just would be shitty if I did all this work just for it to be the fuel filter assembly lol
Thank you for the helpful video. I would say though, from what i know it is not common to have a CP3 pump failure at such low miles. Much of the info I have seen leans towatds them lasting a long time. My original has 290,000 miles and is still going. However i have been running an air dog lift pump for the past 100,000 miles. As someone else did mention in this comment section, it is good to run a lift pump on these trucks even if they are stock. It keeps the CP3 and injectors happy. Edit: also running a good fuel additive at every fill up for cleaning and system lubrication. I use hotshot diesel, "everyday diesel treatment".
I bought brand new Bosch injectors, and a Bosch pump. Also brand new from my local AutoZone. I have a commercial account with them and they were able to get me the new updated injectors.
No, it’s just a high-pressure pump. The one for mine had no timing marks or anything that needed to be lined up for timing purposes manual injection requires timing. These have electronic injectors, Bosch style computer controls when they inject the fuel.
So basically what I've gathered from this video is either I spend from dawn till dusk doing the work myself praying to God I don't screw it up (I prob will). Or, I spend equal amounts in labor as in parts to pay someone else to tackle this headache? 😂😂
Yup, pretty well sums up everything under the hood on these, and most vehicles these days. I’ve done my water pump, injectors, glow plugs, FPR…which is when I SHOULD have done the CP3 with my mileage, and now I’ve done my CP3 also. I just get all the known needed parts and tools gathered up and set aside a cpl days so I don’t have to rush and in case something goes sideways I’ll have time to address it. I’ve save THOUSANDS in labor costs. GM wanted 7500.00 to do injectors, I bought brand new, updated Bosch ones a,d a complete kit to install from Injectors Direct for 2500.00. That’s a savings of 5K right there! I did the passenger side over a weekend, that’s all my back can take at my age, drove for a week, then did the drivers side, which was more involved, but I was more confident now, 2 more days over a weekend and it’s been perfect. So yeah, spend time or spend money, at least DIY you know what was actually done and how well.
When you go to prime the system crack the feed line at the injector rail if you can and let the air come out that way...or if the factory fuel filter head in place leave the bleeder screw lose and prime it that way...mine took a bit to get its prime back after doing this.
When you say "pumping and bleeding" do you mean you're cracking open fuel lines or just priming the system? I'm having the same issue with 200 PSI showing after installing a new pump
What I mean is the priming of the fuel system at the fuel filter Until you see if you’re bleeding out of the Schrader valve on the front top of the engine it’s a rather large Schrader valve used for pressure and vacuum readings I would not recommend cracking the fuel lines at all they are under extremely high pressure
The pressure in that part of the system is very low it basically supplies the high pressure pump which is what the video was about have you already replaced your injector pump and are still dealing with low pressure minded the same thing I sprayed a very very little bit of ether to get it to fire off for a second and then the pressure went up and I haven’t had an issue with it cents but again when I say I used a very little bit it was just less than a half a seconds worth of a spray I am not a fan of using ether on any diesel engine either is also known as starter fluid
I remember right there wasn’t really much on the wave seals it didn’t come with the pump assembly mostly everything within it are hard connections which don’t have sales
If you still haven’t solved your low rail pressure issue, you might try adding a Fass or other high volume lift pump/filtration system to your low pressure fuel system near the fuel tank and see if that fixes the issue. A lot of times the CP3 can work fine on the HP side and have weak suction drawing fuel to the pump. Mine does this when ambient temperatures are above 80 F. and pulling a large trailer or during hard acceleration. Pressurizing the fuel system on the suction side of the CP3 can often eliminate your problem. If not, then even if you have to change the CP3, that lift pump system will exponentially extend the service life of your new CP3.
Great Video I have a 07.5 LMM that is dumping fuel psi from 26K down to 5.4K under hard acceleration/merge acceleration. Otherwise the truck drives fine, normal driving. Were your fuel lines kinked at all near the test port? I can not really see mine.
No all of my fuel lines had smooth turns and curves they were all metal lines yeah what is your fuel pressure on the low side there’s a special gauge that attaches to a piece right near the front of the engine on the radiator it should have about -5 vacuum Paul went running
No you don’t have the time this pump he basically fits straight in and it’s based on creating pressure not sending specific pressure to each injector like the older systems used to be which required timing the pressure goes to two different fuel rails
I liked your video and subscribed. If I may ask a question, on my 03 duramax I'm not getting any fuel to the hand pump. Is it possible the hand pump is the problem or that the P0087 code means the CP3 is out? PS I don't have a lift pump and there was rust on top of the last fuel filter I changed. Please advise.
the first thing i would try is a reseal kit on the fuel filter housing and fuel filter make sure to put a little oil on the fuel filter gasket to help it seal. after that i would use a vacuum gage on the port that is downstream from the filter housing. sounds to me like it is pulling air in from somewhere between the housing and the CP3 pump. my truck is stock so it in my opinion does not need a lift pump i hope that this is helpful
Had to cut the upper left hand bolt on the bridge. It was that or loosen the turbo. That bridge so close to the turbo with a coolant pipe in between is one of the worst things I've had to deal with in a while as a mechanic engineering wise. Could be amended with possible shorter bolt so easily.
It took about 8 to 10 hours of her today. And I don’t have one on the injectors but the injectors on this engine are very easy they don’t require a special tool to actually pull them out it’s more important to make sure that you get all of the fuel feed lines labeled so that you can get them back to the correct injectors
Thanks for the encouraging words no I didn’t have any shavings I got lucky mine also isn’t a really high mileage vehicle either as for checking the regulator I’ve seen a couple of videos that say you can do it but I’m not sure
That’s why I made the video cause I know it’s just easier now, but also confusing enough to be one of those ones where you’re like. I don’t know if I should do this or not. It’s not really as bad but that’s why the videos out there.
I enjoyed this. Straight to the point. Cut out the boring stuff. This with help people get this done at home. Good job!
Decent video, My '05 LLY has made it to 741,000 miles on the original CP3 and still going. I did the injectors (with new ones) about 610k but I am on the second FPR and have 2 spares. Anything in the valley is tough to get to.
Thanks for that little tidbit of information. I would love to know that I don’t have to do my CP three every 120 it’s nice to hear that one made it and it’s still going. If you don’t mind me asking what was the reason you needed to do the regulator
@@joshlogan5233 the regulator develops a sticky spot (the plunger inside moves constantly) so at idle the pressure can shoot from 4k to above 6k which causes the engine to surge. Mostly annoying at first but I havenheard of others having to hold the brakes hard to keep still at a light. I replaced it with a cheaper one and it worked fine, now after several years it has a random slight surge when cold... but for the savings I have 2 extra on hand. They are either really, really good copies of Bosch regulators or real ones wholesale. I do add a bit of 2 stroke oil and injector cleaner every several months. The fuel lines did have a decent amount of buildup inside after 610k miles so the injector cleaner is a good thing regularly.
@@joshlogan5233 By the way, it is impossible to diagnose the fuel pump or injectors with a bad regulator, it will throw off balance rates and other tests. Asmper the oem manual, you must first establish a steady fuel pressure.
Thanks for the info on that I will keep a look out for that
Thank you for not playing music while you talk!
👍
Well my 2008 Duramax just started and then shut down as I was pulling out of my driveway with my trailer .
Now I’m gonno replace the fuel filter n elements to it but if that don’t work this might be my next step and I enjoyed how thoroughly ya explained it .
What did u end up replacing?
@@ryley2331 this week I’ll hopefully have the money to send it to the shop .
I’ve got to many back injuries to be bent over trying to work for a several days on it .
@@eddiereyna2998 fair enough thanks for the reply, just tore my CP3 out. Going to install now just would be shitty if I did all this work just for it to be the fuel filter assembly lol
Give your LLY a hug and replace that TURBO CHOKING turbo mouth. You will be stunned at the difference.
Wow, thanks for posting, learned a lot and answered a bunch of questions !! 👍👍
Damn brother. You made that look easy.
Thank you for the helpful video.
I would say though, from what i know it is not common to have a CP3 pump failure at such low miles. Much of the info I have seen leans towatds them lasting a long time.
My original has 290,000 miles and is still going. However i have been running an air dog lift pump for the past 100,000 miles.
As someone else did mention in this comment section, it is good to run a lift pump on these trucks even if they are stock. It keeps the CP3 and injectors happy.
Edit: also running a good fuel additive at every fill up for cleaning and system lubrication. I use hotshot diesel, "everyday diesel treatment".
Did the cp3 oil o ring leak at all ? I know it’s hard to see it when everything is installed.
Not that I noticed my biggest issue was pressure
Hello. Where did u buy both ur injectors and injection pump
I bought brand new Bosch injectors, and a Bosch pump. Also brand new from my local AutoZone. I have a commercial account with them and they were able to get me the new updated injectors.
You don't have to time the pump ? Just install no marks ?
No, it’s just a high-pressure pump. The one for mine had no timing marks or anything that needed to be lined up for timing purposes manual injection requires timing. These have electronic injectors, Bosch style computer controls when they inject the fuel.
So basically what I've gathered from this video is either I spend from dawn till dusk doing the work myself praying to God I don't screw it up (I prob will). Or, I spend equal amounts in labor as in parts to pay someone else to tackle this headache? 😂😂
That is a really eloquent way to put it. Hopefully people read this comment.
Yup, pretty well sums up everything under the hood on these, and most vehicles these days.
I’ve done my water pump, injectors, glow plugs, FPR…which is when I SHOULD have done the CP3 with my mileage, and now I’ve done my CP3 also.
I just get all the known needed parts and tools gathered up and set aside a cpl days so I don’t have to rush and in case something goes sideways I’ll have time to address it.
I’ve save THOUSANDS in labor costs. GM wanted 7500.00 to do injectors, I bought brand new, updated Bosch ones a,d a complete kit to install from Injectors Direct for 2500.00. That’s a savings of 5K right there!
I did the passenger side over a weekend, that’s all my back can take at my age, drove for a week, then did the drivers side, which was more involved, but I was more confident now,
2 more days over a weekend and it’s been perfect.
So yeah, spend time or spend money, at least DIY you know what was actually done and how well.
Could you show us how to bleed the system? I replaced the cp3 and am still only getting 300psi. I also have a lift pump. Should I try some ether?
I also replaced FPR, fuel filter head, and 1 injector.
Yeah I can try to make a video in the next day or two I’ll put a link in this one description
@@joshlogan5233 thank you. My truck has been sitting for nearly 2 months now!
When you go to prime the system crack the feed line at the injector rail if you can and let the air come out that way...or if the factory fuel filter head in place leave the bleeder screw lose and prime it that way...mine took a bit to get its prime back after doing this.
When you say "pumping and bleeding" do you mean you're cracking open fuel lines or just priming the system? I'm having the same issue with 200 PSI showing after installing a new pump
What I mean is the priming of the fuel system at the fuel filter Until you see if you’re bleeding out of the Schrader valve on the front top of the engine it’s a rather large Schrader valve used for pressure and vacuum readings I would not recommend cracking the fuel lines at all they are under extremely high pressure
@@joshlogan5233 mine dont seem to be under that much pressure at all.
@@joshlogan5233 the primer gets hard when I turn on my aux pump and dont seem to have pressure at the schrader valve
The pressure in that part of the system is very low it basically supplies the high pressure pump which is what the video was about have you already replaced your injector pump and are still dealing with low pressure minded the same thing I sprayed a very very little bit of ether to get it to fire off for a second and then the pressure went up and I haven’t had an issue with it cents but again when I say I used a very little bit it was just less than a half a seconds worth of a spray I am not a fan of using ether on any diesel engine either is also known as starter fluid
How many miles was on the original pump?
110,000 which, based on some research I did was about the average life of them, unfortunately
What seals and gasket did you need to do this job?
I remember right there wasn’t really much on the wave seals it didn’t come with the pump assembly mostly everything within it are hard connections which don’t have sales
Was your truck throwing the p0087 code under heavy throttle before changing this ?
No when it comes to my truck just Would not start
If you still haven’t solved your low rail pressure issue, you might try adding a Fass or other high volume lift pump/filtration system to your low pressure fuel system near the fuel tank and see if that fixes the issue. A lot of times the CP3 can work fine on the HP side and have weak suction drawing fuel to the pump. Mine does this when ambient temperatures are above 80 F. and pulling a large trailer or during hard acceleration. Pressurizing the fuel system on the suction side of the CP3 can often eliminate your problem. If not, then even if you have to change the CP3, that lift pump system will exponentially extend the service life of your new CP3.
Great Video
I have a 07.5 LMM that is dumping fuel psi from 26K down to 5.4K under hard acceleration/merge acceleration. Otherwise the truck drives fine, normal driving.
Were your fuel lines kinked at all near the test port? I can not really see mine.
No all of my fuel lines had smooth turns and curves they were all metal lines yeah what is your fuel pressure on the low side there’s a special gauge that attaches to a piece right near the front of the engine on the radiator it should have about -5 vacuum Paul went running
12-14” vaccum
@@mikef6706 thanks
Do you have to time this pump?
No you don’t have the time this pump he basically fits straight in and it’s based on creating pressure not sending specific pressure to each injector like the older systems used to be which required timing the pressure goes to two different fuel rails
No the pump care doesn’t need to be timed
I have a 07.5 LMM, do you know if this is still a plug & play NO timing involved?
@@mikef6706 i dont think timing its involve..
@@mikef6706 On that engine I’m actually not sure
I liked your video and subscribed. If I may ask a question, on my 03 duramax I'm not getting any fuel to the hand pump. Is it possible the hand pump is the problem or that the P0087 code means the CP3 is out? PS I don't have a lift pump and there was rust on top of the last fuel filter I changed. Please advise.
the first thing i would try is a reseal kit on the fuel filter housing and fuel filter make sure to put a little oil on the fuel filter gasket to help it seal. after that i would use a vacuum gage on the port that is downstream from the filter housing. sounds to me like it is pulling air in from somewhere between the housing and the CP3 pump. my truck is stock so it in my opinion does not need a lift pump i hope that this is helpful
I think you did a great job. What did the Snap-on tester cost?
A little over 6k a lot I know but has prided for its self over the years
Where did you find a new Bosch pump for $800? I just got one and had to pay $1200!!!!!
I sourced my pump it new Bosch pump from AutoZone for a little over $800 that’s where I got mine this was not a reman pump it was a new one
Had to cut the upper left hand bolt on the bridge. It was that or loosen the turbo. That bridge so close to the turbo with a coolant pipe in between is one of the worst things I've had to deal with in a while as a mechanic engineering wise.
Could be amended with possible shorter bolt so easily.
How long did it take you from start to finish? Also do you have a video on replacing the injectors?
It took about 8 to 10 hours of her today. And I don’t have one on the injectors but the injectors on this engine are very easy they don’t require a special tool to actually pull them out it’s more important to make sure that you get all of the fuel feed lines labeled so that you can get them back to the correct injectors
How long did it take you to prime?
Around 5mins and a tiny hit of ether
Great video. Did you find any shavings on that regulator? Also is it possible to just check the regulator without total disassembly?
Thanks for the encouraging words no I didn’t have any shavings I got lucky mine also isn’t a really high mileage vehicle either as for checking the regulator I’ve seen a couple of videos that say you can do it but I’m not sure
It might be possible to replace the regulator but not easy and now no shavings were found in it and I used a really good magnifying glass to make sure
Hello, if you unplug the regulator plug. The pressure should max out at 26 to 30k psi. If not then your regulator is bad.
Nice video! How many miles did it have?
123000 first part of the motors life it pulled a 35’ RV trailer
It had a little over 120k
How long did this take?
Over two days around 12 hours but I took a lot of time cleaning parts up too
I would suggest putting a lift pump on to help take the strain off the cp3, I have a Fass lift pump and it works good
Thank you for the suggestion I have been considering it I haven’t had much of an issue up at this point but it never hurts to give it a helping hand
Instead of using silicone in your socket try grease , it’s a lot easier to clean out of the socket
thanks for the great idea I will use at in the future
Upper intake part is called a plenum
I realize it's kinda off topic but does anybody know of a good website to stream new series online?
@Ramon Jason i would suggest FlixZone. You can find it on google =)
@Michael Kyrie Yea, I've been using flixzone for months myself :)
@Michael Kyrie thanks, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it !
@Ramon Jason No problem :D
Looks like something for me to pay someone else to do! ;)
One of the reasons I made the video so that people don’t get in over their head always cost more after you take it apart
Hey josh, wanna come help me do mine LMAO
That’s why I made the video cause I know it’s just easier now, but also confusing enough to be one of those ones where you’re like. I don’t know if I should do this or not. It’s not really as bad but that’s why the videos out there.
You never show the actual removal of pump.
My apologies once remove the retaining bolts it comes out pretty easy the hard part is getting to all of them