Best video yet on this. The other guys start with everything apart and explain how they got there. I need to see it. I was interested in how the lower EGR to Y-bridge elbow comes out, mine is not coming out easily. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video it helped me. I just got everything apart, hopefully I’ll get it all back together tomorrow and the truck still runs. Bottom nut passenger side of the Y bridge had me about to get it towed to a shop, that metal line coming up under the turbo they could have routed anywhere, they routed it there. I’d like to be sitting next to a guy in a bar sometime that tells me he’s the engineer that designed that line route.
Dude I couldnt agree more! they routed many of the lines in terrible places, not just that one…why route the pass side fuel return over the bridge instead of over the cp3 then T with cp3 return…the factory design makes after Market 1 piece y bridge a nightmare. Looking at the full soft line test block conversion kit from DHD to reroute all of them, but annoyed I have to 🤣
What egr delete is that i did mine and the delete tube didn’t have any additional brackets besides the one that bolts behind the alternator and it didn’t even reach the bolts properly so it keeps popping out
The dirty Y bridge - I don't understand why it is so nasty. Yours looks like another video that I saw, so nothing unusual there. When I took mine out from my 2003 @200k miles, mine looked very clean; I don't recall any carbon or buildup at all. In thinking about it, this should be fresh air that passes through turbo then the intercooler, so where is the crud coming from?
Pretty sure they put the CP3 on a table and said ok boys.... lets build a truck around this. Ive never seen so many things have to be removed for something. My issue is the bums who did the FPR before me stripped the T25s out. Im having to remove the entire pump to remove the bolts. I only have about an hr a day to work on it bc of my job and daylight savings so this is going to take forever.
That was not a pyro sensor, it is the vane position sensor. Also the one you said the sensor was in the fuel rail to the left of turbo is the fuel temp sensor and lastly the sensor on the bracket that holds the engine harness plugs is the barometric sensor
It depends, it’s always good measure change thermostat send thermostat seals, but nothing is technically required. There’s a few o-rings in the coolant pipes that could probably be changed at the same time. It really depends on age of the truck
@@JoeBarronTV What would be the diagnosis steps to determine if it is the fuel pump? My LB7 is crank no start status. Both batteries and alternator tested good at the local parts stores. I thought it could be the alternator because the batteries kept dying ( probably due to only driving it every 2 weeks or so). The only other issues happening before this were the language kept switching to Spanish or French while driving. Some times it would constantly scroll between all three languages while driving. While annoying, after starting and stopping a few times I could switch it back to English and it never prevented it from firing up. I also ran out of fuel when the gauge read 1/4 tank so I started filling it at 1/2 a tank. Not sure if any of these issues are related but any tips would be greatly appreciated. I can't afford to tow it to one of these high dollar mechanics in this tourist town I live in!
I see that you also had some friendly rodents eat your firewall up and stuff the fiberglass in the valley of your engine too, glad I'm not the only one. I've seen this a few times now. Must be a cozy spot for those pesky critters.
j. Onofre no it does not need to be set in time. It just creates fuel pressure for the common rail. So it doesn’t matter. If it was an older Cummins or power stroke it would matter.
IV done this job and didn't remove as much as you did. However, if your watching this and thinking this looks like a bitch job you would be right it's horrible. Just pay a diesel shop to do it it's worth the money.
Stealthcon69 the line right in front of the turbo, could have routed around the side or under the Y, but no, had to put it right in the way of getting at the bottom nut!
Best video yet on this. The other guys start with everything apart and explain how they got there. I need to see it. I was interested in how the lower EGR to Y-bridge elbow comes out, mine is not coming out easily. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video it helped me. I just got everything apart, hopefully I’ll get it all back together tomorrow and the truck still runs. Bottom nut passenger side of the Y bridge had me about to get it towed to a shop, that metal line coming up under the turbo they could have routed anywhere, they routed it there. I’d like to be sitting next to a guy in a bar sometime that tells me he’s the engineer that designed that line route.
Same!
How’d you manage to get it in about to just leave it at this point
Dude I couldnt agree more! they routed many of the lines in terrible places, not just that one…why route the pass side fuel return over the bridge instead of over the cp3 then T with cp3 return…the factory design makes after
Market 1 piece y bridge a nightmare. Looking at the full soft line test block conversion kit from DHD to reroute all of them, but annoyed I have to 🤣
great video helped me alot on my first lift pump how do i find part 2
Hey i looked through your videos, im guess theres no part 2?
How do you get the pipe back into the y bridge?
Hope and dreams
What egr delete is that i did mine and the delete tube didn’t have any additional brackets besides the one that bolts behind the alternator and it didn’t even reach the bolts properly so it keeps popping out
eddy jones EGR delete kit brand is DRP
Thanks buddy and nice truck
The dirty Y bridge - I don't understand why it is so nasty. Yours looks like another video that I saw, so nothing unusual there. When I took mine out from my 2003 @200k miles, mine looked very clean; I don't recall any carbon or buildup at all. In thinking about it, this should be fresh air that passes through turbo then the intercooler, so where is the crud coming from?
that comes from the EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) which not all LB7 duramax's had... 2000-2003 did not. 2003.5 and newer did have....
Pretty sure they put the CP3 on a table and said ok boys.... lets build a truck around this. Ive never seen so many things have to be removed for something. My issue is the bums who did the FPR before me stripped the T25s out. Im having to remove the entire pump to remove the bolts. I only have about an hr a day to work on it bc of my job and daylight savings so this is going to take forever.
Nice detail for a PITA process.
I wouldn't take it apart till u have the new pump unless u got a new memory 😂😂. In process of doing my pump install now.
Very helpful. Good time to Install a new 1 peice y bridge PPE race fuel valve and a larger fuel supply plug.
That was not a pyro sensor, it is the vane position sensor. Also the one you said the sensor was in the fuel rail to the left of turbo is the fuel temp sensor and lastly the sensor on the bracket that holds the engine harness plugs is the barometric sensor
Nice vid. Get the LBZ turbo mouthpiece it's a HUGE improvement on engine temperature when towing. Really helped my truck stay cool.
Thanks! I really don't have any problem with heat, I live in Michigan. Negative 35 degree cold starts are my biggest challenge temperature wise.
Yes but add air its so much better i noticed a huge difference
Thanks for complete video. I’m doing same. What gaskets and o rings did u have to replace?
It depends, it’s always good measure change thermostat send thermostat seals, but nothing is technically required. There’s a few o-rings in the coolant pipes that could probably be changed at the same time. It really depends on age of the truck
@@JoeBarronTV What would be the diagnosis steps to determine if it is the fuel pump? My LB7 is crank no start status. Both batteries and alternator tested good at the local parts stores. I thought it could be the alternator because the batteries kept dying ( probably due to only driving it every 2 weeks or so). The only other issues happening before this were the language kept switching to Spanish or French while driving. Some times it would constantly scroll between all three languages while driving. While annoying, after starting and stopping a few times I could switch it back to English and it never prevented it from firing up. I also ran out of fuel when the gauge read 1/4 tank so I started filling it at 1/2 a tank. Not sure if any of these issues are related but any tips would be greatly appreciated. I can't afford to tow it to one of these high dollar mechanics in this tourist town I live in!
What was you symptoms of having a bad pump???
Any new info?
I see that you also had some friendly rodents eat your firewall up and stuff the fiberglass in the valley of your engine too, glad I'm not the only one. I've seen this a few times now. Must be a cozy spot for those pesky critters.
Oh Hey!! There's a V we can jam stuff down into it!! How about an expensive high pressure pump?
Does cp3 needs to be set on time with engine?
j. Onofre no it does not need to be set in time. It just creates fuel pressure for the common rail. So it doesn’t matter. If it was an older Cummins or power stroke it would matter.
Where's part 2? What did you find with the CP3 failure? Did it send shavings through the lines?
Sorry I got busy and didn’t have time to film part 2. I got lucky no shavings.
I had to do all this because I drove with a tank of gasoline for 20 minutes.
I live in medford long island New York nice joob
Are those Redwing boots? Nice.
Rudy Salazar yes they are! I’ve got 3 years on them 14-20 hours a day!!! Factory soles!
LOL when changing my FPR my Duramax had the same rat nest with acorns and insulation underneath the y-bridge.
IV done this job and didn't remove as much as you did. However, if your watching this and thinking this looks like a bitch job you would be right it's horrible. Just pay a diesel shop to do it it's worth the money.
Lol went there on mine for that small coolant line and said to hell with all the brackets and left them out
Stealthcon69 the line right in front of the turbo, could have routed around the side or under the Y, but no, had to put it right in the way of getting at the bottom nut!
after watching this i have a duramax for sale.switching to cummins
earl why? cumming have failures just like ford and chevy.
@shaun milnes I would agree a straight 6 is easier to fix than the v8, but cummins has its own issues like all of them do.
Thanks, nice vid
I will say everything is right but the psi minimum needs to be 4k
Those duramaxes are a pain in the butttt
What a freaking nightmare to work on.
That was rat nest .
Invest in a step stool
Is it necessary to remove the alternator bracket?