Alan... Great video & really appreciate your "cool, calm & collected" demeaner.... at least on the video. lol I've got an 02 with 300K+.... clean as a whistle, outside, inside, underneath from front to back and under the hood, and has the ZF 6 spd stick. Been running great.. did have the updated injectors put in at 256K about 8 yrs ago, don't drive it that much. Just yesterday (6.28. 2023), I came out from a parts store, got in the truck... cranked & cranked... no start. It was on a downward sloe, so I left the key on, put it in reverse, rolled back about 5 or 6 ft, let out the clutch and it instantly fired up, ran fine... lots of power, and and on the way home, I put my "foot into it" (Rarely, ever do that), and it pegged the boost gauge at 21 lbs. Got home, let it sit for about 10 minutes, went back out... had to put my foot into it to about half throttle, before it would fired.... but it was Not and instant fire0up, it more of a gradual start, but once it did, it ran fine, quick throttle response, idles smooth, no smoke of any color (I've been using FPPF fuel lube/ cetane booster & Diesel Extreme in the fuel for Years), unless I stuff my foot all the way into the pump (Black, of course). I changed the fuel filter last night... I only use Baldwin filters... they come standard on most HD diesels all the way up to 100K+ hp ocean going 2 cycle diesels. It started right up after I primed the filter.... took it for about an 8 mile round trip spin (I live in the country)... ran great, came home, shut it off... did a few things in the shop, went back out about 15 minutes later, cranked about 4 seconds before it lit (right off).... before yesterday, it use to start within, One second.. literally! What say you.... any idea's? it "almost seems" like its bleeding off fuel pressure after its been run... ??? PS; I "liked & Subscribed".... great work!!
If I had to guess, I'd start by looking for fuel leaks. Most of the time it's one of the rubber lines in the engine bay. If it fires up every time you prime it then chances are it's getting air in the system somewhere. A lift pump helps this, and would make the leak easier to find, but if you have a leak, then obviously it needs addressed.
@@joshuabray-p8c thanks! It ran great after this for a while but eventually broke the crank or sheered the cam dowel. New video incoming of swapping the motor out!
Ok so my 2 cents worth here. Good video. Number one those Y bridge studs come out. Just cinch 2 nuts on them and remove as you would a screw. The power steering bracket is just 4 bolts. Make your life easy. Remove and the bra ket just pulls forward an inch or so and both of the lines in front of the thermostat housing come out very easily. Makes the removal of the pump and subsequent drop in much easier.
In need of advice. I once let my 06 lbz run out of fuel and not long after it went into limp mode unless I cleared the code p0087 and I have airdog lift pump but the factory one is deleted and I’ve replaced the cp3 and fuel lines connected to it but I can’t get it to start unless I spray it and I don’t know what else to do.
How did you confirm that it was the pump and not injectors. Is it true that if you cant get maxed pressure while in park that its the injectors leaking to much fuel?
Any advice on where to get a list of what gaskets and O-rings are needed for this project? I want to order everything before diving in. Thanks in advance!! Great video here!!
Just did mine I can’t get it to start now I don’t have a lift pump any ideas? I checked for leaks I don’t see any. Should I just keep priming and cranking or what lol?
@@michaelbonney6833 use your primer and bleed screw on the filter housing. If you have fuel at the bleeder screw then keep trying, beyond that you may have left something unplugged?
P1093 and p1094 codes with rail pressure not matching at wot only . Thinking bad pump but replaced pump and now still getting no start unless I spray it , so I know it’s fuel related but hope it’s not injectors cuz I have no sign at all of bad injectors . Hope it’s just a bad pump out of box . What would yall think with the little data I gave ya . P1093-1094 rail pressure 8k and desired at 23 k at wot only , other than that pressure it’s spot on than trucks cuts of sitting there idling . Had to prime filter head to start it . Drove ten minutes cut off at red light . Had to prime the hell out of it even with fass lift pump got it running and dies 20 feet down the road and limped It home . Replaced cp3 . Got no start unless with spray , got the p0089 code and surge at idle but pressures were spot on while driving but now no crank still . Fuel leak at cp3 fittings and somewhere on back of housing . Sent it back , have another pump otw! Help me save some money for diagnostics trying to save money
Man, it sounds like a leak or a bad pump. Hopefully the replacement pump helps. Did the pump have a new FPR on it? If not maybe check that out. There's also the pressure relief valve that could be failed causing the system not to pressurize. If the system ever had an overpressure condition and that safety valve popped open then it's done and needs replaced. That's that part that the big banjo bolt attaches to on the top of the Valley.
My truck died while driving on the highway today. Then crank no start. FRP and DFRP are matching up when cranking. No air in the system. Just got a fuel tank of fuel about 30min before it happened. Bad fuel leading to clogged filters? I noticed a pump truck at the fuel station when I got fuel. Any ideas? No engine codes.
@@jordankirkman8113 the pressure relief valve may be leaking by. Or you may have some leaky injectors, but those would likely show themselves by fuel in the oil or a bad Ballance test.
Nice video. May i ask what code if any, did the truck have? My lb7 has the p093 "large fuel leak" code at times and will limp mode. I have not replaced regulator or bypass valve yet. Did you have this code also? Thanks.
I don’t know why they have to make it so damn difficult to work on there junk except to make it that way so you won’t want to do it yourself and just take it to a dealer I guess it’s job security for them I have an 03 duratrash 3500 and I have an 01 Cummins 2500 I’ll work on the Cummins long before I look at that dura junker fuel pump is a bitch water pump is a bitch injector are a bitch my Cummins is not all that hard only hard part is timing the pump big deal give me an old 70’s or older truck there easier to work on more room under the hood and one hell of a lot less complicated newer isn’t always better
You are an outstanding teacher/mechanic. Thank you!
Alan... Great video & really appreciate your "cool, calm & collected" demeaner.... at least on the video. lol I've got an 02 with 300K+.... clean as a whistle, outside, inside, underneath from front to back and under the hood, and has the ZF 6 spd stick. Been running great.. did have the updated injectors put in at 256K about 8 yrs ago, don't drive it that much. Just yesterday (6.28. 2023), I came out from a parts store, got in the truck... cranked & cranked... no start. It was on a downward sloe, so I left the key on, put it in reverse, rolled back about 5 or 6 ft, let out the clutch and it instantly fired up, ran fine... lots of power, and and on the way home, I put my "foot into it" (Rarely, ever do that), and it pegged the boost gauge at 21 lbs.
Got home, let it sit for about 10 minutes, went back out... had to put my foot into it to about half throttle, before it would fired.... but it was Not and instant fire0up, it more of a gradual start, but once it did, it ran fine, quick throttle response, idles smooth, no smoke of any color (I've been using FPPF fuel lube/ cetane booster & Diesel Extreme in the fuel for Years), unless I stuff my foot all the way into the pump (Black, of course).
I changed the fuel filter last night... I only use Baldwin filters... they come standard on most HD diesels all the way up to 100K+ hp ocean going 2 cycle diesels.
It started right up after I primed the filter.... took it for about an 8 mile round trip spin (I live in the country)... ran great, came home, shut it off... did a few things in the shop, went back out about 15 minutes later, cranked about 4 seconds before it lit (right off).... before yesterday, it use to start within, One second.. literally!
What say you.... any idea's? it "almost seems" like its bleeding off fuel pressure after its been run... ??? PS; I "liked & Subscribed".... great work!!
If I had to guess, I'd start by looking for fuel leaks. Most of the time it's one of the rubber lines in the engine bay. If it fires up every time you prime it then chances are it's getting air in the system somewhere. A lift pump helps this, and would make the leak easier to find, but if you have a leak, then obviously it needs addressed.
Great video great explanations great patience. Good job all around easy to understand. Lots of good tips. Let’s see the video with it running.
@@joshuabray-p8c thanks! It ran great after this for a while but eventually broke the crank or sheered the cam dowel. New video incoming of swapping the motor out!
I love the in depth details the video really helped me thank a lot man
Ok so my 2 cents worth here. Good video.
Number one those Y bridge studs come out. Just cinch 2 nuts on them and remove as you would a screw.
The power steering bracket is just 4 bolts. Make your life easy. Remove and the bra ket just pulls forward an inch or so and both of the lines in front of the thermostat housing come out very easily. Makes the removal of the pump and subsequent drop in much easier.
In need of advice. I once let my 06 lbz run out of fuel and not long after it went into limp mode unless I cleared the code p0087 and I have airdog lift pump but the factory one is deleted and I’ve replaced the cp3 and fuel lines connected to it but I can’t get it to start unless I spray it and I don’t know what else to do.
Would a bad pump put the box cause a no start but will start with fluid so we know it’s fuel related but hope it’s not injectors
I did almost this exact same thing, but i recommend pulling one of your y bridge studs. Makes it 10x easier to pull the pump and put it back in
Very well explained video thank you
Nice. I was able to fallow .
Very helpful
How did you confirm that it was the pump and not injectors. Is it true that if you cant get maxed pressure while in park that its the injectors leaking to much fuel?
No smoking/hazing, no fuel in my oil
Any advice on where to get a list of what gaskets and O-rings are needed for this project? I want to order everything before diving in. Thanks in advance!! Great video here!!
I ordered a kit with all the gaskets and crush washers from thoroughbred diesel
I grabbed everything from the local dealer. They have diagrams that made it easy to shop. Thanks for watching!
How did you get the nut to torque without the pump spinning?
Strap wrench or you can try threading a pry bar through the gear to hold it
Do I have to drain my fuel or anything first
@@JacobCraft-s7g nope
Just did mine I can’t get it to start now I don’t have a lift pump any ideas? I checked for leaks I don’t see any. Should I just keep priming and cranking or what lol?
@@michaelbonney6833 use your primer and bleed screw on the filter housing. If you have fuel at the bleeder screw then keep trying, beyond that you may have left something unplugged?
@@AlanFixedIt got it running just had to keep priming
There's no timing procedure or anything? Just disassemble, swap the face and gear, torque it and re-assemble??
Correct 😀
P1093 and p1094 codes with rail pressure not matching at wot only . Thinking bad pump but replaced pump and now still getting no start unless I spray it , so I know it’s fuel related but hope it’s not injectors cuz I have no sign at all of bad injectors . Hope it’s just a bad pump out of box . What would yall think with the little data I gave ya . P1093-1094 rail pressure 8k and desired at 23 k at wot only , other than that pressure it’s spot on than trucks cuts of sitting there idling . Had to prime filter head to start it . Drove ten minutes cut off at red light . Had to prime the hell out of it even with fass lift pump got it running and dies 20 feet down the road and limped
It home . Replaced cp3 . Got no start unless with spray , got the p0089 code and surge at idle but pressures were spot on while driving but now no crank still . Fuel leak at cp3 fittings and somewhere on back of housing . Sent it back , have another pump otw! Help me save some money for diagnostics trying to save money
Man, it sounds like a leak or a bad pump. Hopefully the replacement pump helps. Did the pump have a new FPR on it? If not maybe check that out. There's also the pressure relief valve that could be failed causing the system not to pressurize. If the system ever had an overpressure condition and that safety valve popped open then it's done and needs replaced. That's that part that the big banjo bolt attaches to on the top of the Valley.
@@AlanFixedIt yes the pump did it popped the p0089 code for the fpr but sent pump back and that with it on it so we’ll see how new one goes
How many hours was this job
I don't remember exactly, but I'd guess probably 8 or so
How it running now?
Fuel pressure was perfect after the install. Matched commanded pressure within a small margin
Great video
My truck died while driving on the highway today. Then crank no start. FRP and DFRP are matching up when cranking. No air in the system. Just got a fuel tank of fuel about 30min before it happened. Bad fuel leading to clogged filters? I noticed a pump truck at the fuel station when I got fuel. Any ideas? No engine codes.
What was issue
man I got all the info that I need thank u so very much ❤️
your info is what I needed u r doing a very good job well done thank you merry Christmas my B DAY
My cp3 is stuck won’t budge at all . All bolts are out . Help!!
Mine was pretty stuck as well.. I used a long flat head screwdriver to walk it out
@@AlanFixedIt just did the same thing two flat heads thanks
What is the mileage...... that pump died........... ?
@@ericpratt-d4b this truck has 270k on it. Unknown if it's the original
Ty
I have 2004 LLY had low rail pressure added lift pump same thing changed cp3 same code anyone have any suggestions???
@@jordankirkman8113 the pressure relief valve may be leaking by. Or you may have some leaky injectors, but those would likely show themselves by fuel in the oil or a bad Ballance test.
Nice video. May i ask what code if any, did the truck have? My lb7 has the p093 "large fuel leak" code at times and will limp mode. I have not replaced regulator or bypass valve yet. Did you have this code also? Thanks.
I did. It was 93 and 94 codes
Where’s the lb7 fuel temp sensor at
It's on the fuel rail on the driver's side near the back of the motor
Go trump
camera work was terrible
I got a 2002 i bought today 1000.00 i figured i cant go wrong but there is alot sh** under the hood on these i got 99 psd idk witchs is worse😂
I don’t know why they have to make it so damn difficult to work on there junk except to make it that way so you won’t want to do it yourself and just take it to a dealer I guess it’s job security for them I have an 03 duratrash 3500 and I have an 01 Cummins 2500 I’ll work on the Cummins long before I look at that dura junker fuel pump is a bitch water pump is a bitch injector are a bitch my Cummins is not all that hard only hard part is timing the pump big deal give me an old 70’s or older truck there easier to work on more room under the hood and one hell of a lot less complicated newer isn’t always better