This dude really knows what he’s talking about! I love the detail explanation and he’s not wrong about what he says on this truck. Tomorrow morning I’m going to replace the FICM on my LLY because surprise 🎉 it went bad (completely) thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff and nice job keeping that truck in mint condition
Thanks for dropping by and please subscribe! I have several videos coming in September and I plan to increase the production value with better camera / microphone and editing.
had the whole head gasket issue, dirty tank,puking,both sides blown, they went from crimped, to riveted gaskets,now studded,close to 200k,early on had the 2,7 harness headache,redid the allison w triple disc ,transgo kit,i added BD tap shifter i love that upgrade, still on stock injectors,altenator,good trucks when maintained
Good vid. Covered just about everything except the leaky stock fuel filter housing. I deleted mine after installing my lift pump. And the FPR and FPRV.
Surprisingly I never had any issues with the fuel filter housing. Original at 250k miles. I did finally delete it after this video, and installed a lift pump. Also went ahead and did the FPRV.
@@RenGarage did you do a plug? I didn’t know mine was leaking until I installed the lift pump and it put positive pressure on it. It was sucking air before that, apparently.
Do the Ice Pick on #2-#7 injector... did mine 140k miles ago and no problem at 250k... also did pcv reroute, full delete, and LBZ mouth piece all at 120K miles... no more over heating while pulling 10k up hill in summer, no more fans coming on excessively... Truck needs to breathe and it does that just fine with thr mouthpiece the rad is good enough as is
@@BusinessMuscles These trucks have a transfer case issue that is essentially a ticking time bomb. Google “GM pump rub.” Definitely want to fix it early, it’ll be less $$
My LLY is now at 741,000 miles. One thing I didn't see covered is the wiring harness rub through. There are 3 other spots in the injector harness that will ground out, usually starts showing up on wet/rainy days. Water pumps usually last me 200k but had one go at 65k and the cover begins to errode inside. Brake and fuel lines are not quality items so they should be replaced before they rust out.
The Allison spin filter also has a magnet that is removeable so it can be cleaned. Remove the filter,it should be either stuck to the top of the filter or it is around the threaded pipe nipple.if it is not there,soneone has changed that filter before and not known about it. There is also a internal trans filter as well. I have a 05 LLY with 380,650 miles on it. Orignal engine and trans. I see you run Stanadyne. I do as well. Every other month i use the brown label and every fill up a make a mixture of the blue label and the purple label.
Thanks for the comment! Yes I forgot to mention the magnet. I think it came out with the filter but it's been awhile since I did that job. Glad to hear you are going strong at 380k miles. I'm almost at 250k and zero blow by, transmission is great, no signs of head gasket problems.
Thanks! Rust is hard to fix unfortunately! Believe it or not I do have one spot on the rockers that's starting to rust through. Even though this truck has lived in North Carolina its entire life.
Hi .new subscriber . My 2005 duramax keeps failing emissions in CT. Always passed .im so close to passing acored a 48 and 40nis max allowable ...ive owned the truck fornjust acouple of years..passed twice .i cleaned k&n air filter .changed oil .changee fiel filters .ran a chemical fule system cleaner ... im not much of a diesel guy ..my diesel mechanic buddy said maybe my pcv or egr are dirty ..truck has an MBPR exhaust and a cold air intake i forget the brand... and i realized i havent touchee ocv or egr in 5 years and im a contractor so truck gets worked ...any suggestions and help are GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKYOU Frank .
The later LLY (2006) is basically a detuned LBZ so I’m told. The air intake issue was fixed. I have 400,000 on mine, very few issues except for the hydro boost and radiator stack. I’m going to check out the EGR issue, mileage has been slipping.
Don’t ever get rid of that truck. What a prime example of taking proper care of something! I noticed you said the truck has over 200k. Curious if you’ve done the pump rub upgrade on the t-case? I’ve got the same exact rig and opened up my t-case at just shy of 250k. I had a pine hole in the case but still about a quart and a half of fluid! Highly advised to check this on any GMT800! Not just lly!
hey brother great video. how do you not have a check engine light with the egr delete? i have the same set up as you and it always throws a code. thanks
Yes it should not be running hotter than that. However as I mention in the video the instrument cluster can go bad and show erroneous readings. If it consistently runs in the same spot it’s probably fine, and actually running about 190F I’d recommend hooking up an obd2 scanner to read the engine temperature to get a baseline. Most generic scanners will give you this information.
It’s one of the cheap Amazon ones. I drilled/notched the mounting bracket so I could actually bolt it down. If you don’t do this you run the risk of blowing out the Y Bridge
The LBZ has a circular air filter housing rather than the square shape shown in the video. GM called the engine in the 2006 model a LLY for about three months even though it was really the redesigned LBZ. I heard it was because all the emmision testing wasn't implemented so they shipped the first trucks containing the new engine with the same power specs as the the true LLY from 2004.5 and 2005 and called it an LLY until they upped the power a few months later and changed the code to LBZ.
If your truck is from 2001-2004 its a lb7. If you have 2004.5-2005 its a lly. If its a 2006-2007 its a lbz. If its a 2007.5-2010 its a lmm. If its 2011-1016 its a lml. If its anything past that its a l5p
My son-inlaw has an LLY that runs great until he tries to pull a heavy load. He gets very high fuel rail pressures and it limps . It has had new injectors and head gaskets and fuel regulator. Any Ideas?
Higher than oem design will pop the FRPRV just do a PPE RACE VALVE - it's just a solid plug that completely deletes the ability to bleed rail pressure ,
I’m so tired of hearing “lly have heating issues” well the lb7 has literally the same radiator , fan, trans cooler etc etc etc .. yet somehow those don’t have overheating issues. … just saying.
This dude really knows what he’s talking about! I love the detail explanation and he’s not wrong about what he says on this truck. Tomorrow morning I’m going to replace the FICM on my LLY because surprise 🎉 it went bad (completely) thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff and nice job keeping that truck in mint condition
Transmission cooler upgrade helped mine a bunch.
Thanks for dropping by and please subscribe! I have several videos coming in September and I plan to increase the production value with better camera / microphone and editing.
had the whole head gasket issue, dirty tank,puking,both sides blown, they went from crimped, to riveted gaskets,now studded,close to 200k,early on had the 2,7 harness headache,redid the allison w triple disc ,transgo kit,i added BD tap shifter i love that upgrade, still on stock injectors,altenator,good trucks when maintained
Good vid. Covered just about everything except the leaky stock fuel filter housing. I deleted mine after installing my lift pump.
And the FPR and FPRV.
Surprisingly I never had any issues with the fuel filter housing. Original at 250k miles. I did finally delete it after this video, and installed a lift pump. Also went ahead and did the FPRV.
@@RenGarage did you do a plug?
I didn’t know mine was leaking until I installed the lift pump and it put positive pressure on it. It was sucking air before that, apparently.
Do the Ice Pick on #2-#7 injector... did mine 140k miles ago and no problem at 250k... also did pcv reroute, full delete, and LBZ mouth piece all at 120K miles... no more over heating while pulling 10k up hill in summer, no more fans coming on excessively... Truck needs to breathe and it does that just fine with thr mouthpiece the rad is good enough as is
just got a 05 with 99k on it. hope it lasts me 20 years. you're a legend.
Do the pump rub upgrade of it hasn’t be done. Catch it now before you get a hole. Cheaper fix if you catch it early.
@@awesomefish100 pump rub?
@@BusinessMuscles These trucks have a transfer case issue that is essentially a ticking time bomb. Google “GM pump rub.” Definitely want to fix it early, it’ll be less $$
Look up pump rub on these trucks and it will have all the information you will need. The pump rub is inside the transfer case
My LLY is now at 741,000 miles. One thing I didn't see covered is the wiring harness rub through. There are 3 other spots in the injector harness that will ground out, usually starts showing up on wet/rainy days. Water pumps usually last me 200k but had one go at 65k and the cover begins to errode inside. Brake and fuel lines are not quality items so they should be replaced before they rust out.
The Allison spin filter also has a magnet that is removeable so it can be cleaned. Remove the filter,it should be either stuck to the top of the filter or it is around the threaded pipe nipple.if it is not there,soneone has changed that filter before and not known about it. There is also a internal trans filter as well. I have a 05 LLY with 380,650 miles on it. Orignal engine and trans. I see you run Stanadyne. I do as well. Every other month i use the brown label and every fill up a make a mixture of the blue label and the purple label.
Thanks for the comment! Yes I forgot to mention the magnet. I think it came out with the filter but it's been awhile since I did that job. Glad to hear you are going strong at 380k miles. I'm almost at 250k and zero blow by, transmission is great, no signs of head gasket problems.
Awesome vlog👍🏽…I am in the process of upgrading parts on my LLY…Aloha 🤙🏽
what an absolutely clean truck 0 rust. I wish I didn't have rust.
Thanks! Rust is hard to fix unfortunately! Believe it or not I do have one spot on the rockers that's starting to rust through. Even though this truck has lived in North Carolina its entire life.
Use pro 15 rust killer
Great video.
Thanks I appreciate it!
Thanks Man I learned a lot 👍🤺🏋️♀️
You're welcome, thanks for the comment!
i took the rad off the truck,and lightly pressure washed,...lots of debris,but worth doibg
Hi .new subscriber . My 2005 duramax keeps failing emissions in CT. Always passed .im so close to passing acored a 48 and 40nis max allowable ...ive owned the truck fornjust acouple of years..passed twice .i cleaned k&n air filter .changed oil .changee fiel filters .ran a chemical fule system cleaner ... im not much of a diesel guy ..my diesel mechanic buddy said maybe my pcv or egr are dirty ..truck has an MBPR exhaust and a cold air intake i forget the brand... and i realized i havent touchee ocv or egr in 5 years and im a contractor so truck gets worked ...any suggestions and help are GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKYOU
Frank .
yea,the egr soot Is NASTY, HSP makes nice y bridge, i did the van thermostat housing cleans up the area,easier to get to fpr,cp3, y bridge,etc
Great video would you say it is worth buying an lly or hold out for an lbz? Lly are just better priced in my area.
I think it just comes down to whatever you can get the best deal on. I'd rather have a better maintained, lower miles LLY for the same money.
The later LLY (2006) is basically a detuned LBZ so I’m told. The air intake issue was fixed. I have 400,000 on mine, very few issues except for the hydro boost and radiator stack. I’m going to check out the EGR issue, mileage has been slipping.
There's 409 thousand miles on my bone-stock LLY! I've had it for the last 60k miles 😊
Talk about a stock clean example
Don’t ever get rid of that truck. What a prime example of taking proper care of something! I noticed you said the truck has over 200k. Curious if you’ve done the pump rub upgrade on the t-case? I’ve got the same exact rig and opened up my t-case at just shy of 250k. I had a pine hole in the case but still about a quart and a half of fluid! Highly advised to check this on any GMT800! Not just lly!
@@chrisniner8772 That’s too bad… Ive got a friend with an extremely low miles 01. I’d be curious to see what the inside of that case looks like.
hey brother great video. how do you not have a check engine light with the egr delete? i have the same set up as you and it always throws a code. thanks
I've heard the CA emissions model can throw codes. You can search for "LLY finger stick" and might find a solution.
@@RenGarage thanks man!
is engine temp passing the middle line running hot on lly?
Yes it should not be running hotter than that. However as I mention in the video the instrument cluster can go bad and show erroneous readings. If it consistently runs in the same spot it’s probably fine, and actually running about 190F
I’d recommend hooking up an obd2 scanner to read the engine temperature to get a baseline. Most generic scanners will give you this information.
Just found a cracked head on my LLY today.
That fucking truck is cleeaaaaaannnnnn
Anyone know how many of these issues they fixed with the lmm?
They fixed pretty much all of the issues with the LBZ, and the way I understand it, the LMM is basically an LBZ with a DPF
What EGR delete kit is on that truck
It’s one of the cheap Amazon ones.
I drilled/notched the mounting bracket so I could actually bolt it down. If you don’t do this you run the risk of blowing out the Y Bridge
Ahhh have this issue got a 3" fabricated set up I need to install now and replace o rings and do as you did
Is this engine swapped?!?! That’s a lbz front end and the engine looks like a lbz. Just wondering
Nope, it is most definitely an LLY. 2004.5-2005 model year. Couple visible differences.. one being the LBZ has no FICM mounted to the engine.
The LBZ has a circular air filter housing rather than the square shape shown in the video.
GM called the engine in the 2006 model a LLY for about three months even though it was really the redesigned LBZ. I heard it was because all the emmision testing wasn't implemented so they shipped the first trucks containing the new engine with the same power specs as the the true LLY from 2004.5 and 2005 and called it an LLY until they upped the power a few months later and changed the code to LBZ.
The taller hood started in 05
How can you identify which Is durmax engine you have
If your truck is from 2001-2004 its a lb7. If you have 2004.5-2005 its a lly. If its a 2006-2007 its a lbz. If its a 2007.5-2010 its a lmm. If its 2011-1016 its a lml. If its anything past that its a l5p
My son-inlaw has an LLY that runs great until he tries to pull a heavy load. He gets very high fuel rail pressures and it limps . It has had new injectors and head gaskets and fuel regulator. Any Ideas?
How high are the pressures and what codes does it throw when it goes into limp mode?
Higher than oem design will pop the FRPRV just do a PPE RACE VALVE - it's just a solid plug that completely deletes the ability to bleed rail pressure ,
@@RenGarage code p0193 high fuel rail pressure code. 26-27k psi Only problem when heavy tow. Thanks
@@papabapyroFPRV
I paid 2500 for a ficm😐
woof thats a lot of $$
Same
I’m so tired of hearing “lly have heating issues” well the lb7 has literally the same radiator , fan, trans cooler etc etc etc .. yet somehow those don’t have overheating issues. … just saying.
LB7 doesn't have a egr to put heat in cooling system but it is a overblown issue LLY s are great trucks
@@kevinlogan2306I agree the lly is a great vehicle. But yes quite a few lb7 trucks did come with Egr. (Cali model) we see a bit of them at the shop.