Good point. And certainly the weather in the UK is generally pretty cold anyway, so the risk of pre-ignition isn't as great as some other locations around the world.
@@Bbeavis When I look at my NA8 engine and bay I wonder why Mazda routed the air filter plumbing to the exhaust side. There must be sound reasons. Can a small air filter be fitted directly to the throttle body?
@@BrettHart27 There is theories around the length and size/diameter of the intake system having impacts on power/torque curves. I think the simplified logic is that a very short intake such as a filter directly attached to the throttle body, would result in less torque, or dips in the torque curve, but possibly a more "revvy" engine.
A standalone ECU with tuning is very popular and really does make a difference. Swapping to the exhintake or the MSM intake cam on the NB engine head with an ECU upgrade is also good. ITB's with tuning and other engine mods are also done (not very often though).
I totally agree, an ECU is great for opening up an engine's capabilities. However usually an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as cheap, because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. There are some very cost effective ECUs for the miata MX5 nowadays, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing. Exhintake is also a good tip I hadn't considered, thanks for the idea! I've often found ITB's add a great sound, but unless the installer knows what they are doing they don't get the full potential out of them.
ITB’s are not a cheap modification either, in fact they’re among the more expensive naturally aspirated solutions. Plus the intake noise they make is entertaining, but very loud, which effects the civility of a street car.
Honestly the best option is to just find a nice shell with an LSD already in it and put The Answer in. The Answer being as peppy a K20 as you can find... and maybe a snail. If you're handy and have a good relationship with your mechanic you could easily put a K20 in an NB for less than $10k. MY dream is a 400whp turbo K24 (s2k dash) into a white NC2 with custom carbon hardtop bits and blacked out tint, nice flush bronze six spokes with some Pilot Sports, an inch off the height with some mid-lvl C/Os, front lip back tail no skirts.
Thank you so much!!! I’m planning to get this car for my first, I’m 18 now so imma go after it. This video is exactly what I need cuz I’m definitely gonna modify it the tuner way.
@@Bbeavis 😂😂 I wouldn't dream of stancing a miata since it's already low enough. I'll jus get some good coilovers and adjust to a ride height that would agree w both me and the pavement
Throw a 1.8 in there with the biggest turbo you can find. Strip the interior and get rid of unnecessary weight. And now since miatas have no down force, you have yourself a plane.
So many kids these days think that they can go that route (silly big turbo power on the cheap), but then do a shitty job and either break things like a rod out the block, or end up in a ditch.
Valve springs. Exhaust cam intake mod. Plug and play speedy ecu. All cheap and all will push more then these mods together. Will go amazing with all mods in video aswell as these mods ive added.
Usually an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as cheap, because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. But, the speeduino's are very cost effective, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
@@Bbeavis I second this rebuttle. The cost/time/benefit ratio of an aftermarket ecu is rather low. 8/10 of the mods in the video are require low skill/time/cost investments that don't jeopardize the reliability of the car.
You forgot to mention "Add lightness" converting from PAS to a manual rack will save 8.4kg A/C removal even more. Increase the power to weight ratio for free also better braking.
Flying Miata suggest 26psi, makes the car feel a lot more planted and the handling is much better, anything above makes the the car a hard ride it may be slightly faster but less enjoyable
I run 35 PSI and I live in a city with crappy roads. I had it up to 40, but I let some air out for safety. The tires are about half life and wearing out pretty evenly. Just a tad more wear towards the center, but pretty close to normal. Just under 30 PSI would probably be perfect for nice grip around corners, but worse for fuel efficiency.
Fantastic update!...I have done everything on your list except for #8...and that's next. Previously advanced to the supercharged/intercooled route (Absolutely LOVED This) except the SC mounting brackets didn't share the love...back to N.A. Now having a ball rowing the gears, but, between #8 and maybe a Haltech, kinda going back to the roots of the car and seeing what happens...sticking to what can be done on pump gas...It's all about the journey right? 👊 🍻
By adding more HP put a lighter Fly Wheel and you need more Torque origin is only 125 ft/tq change the clutch for a 170 or 190 ft/tq depending af the extra HP you have. Was a good video.
Sadly, I have lost that history, but I did a reverse lookup and found this: www.topmiata.com/top-10-mazda-miata-mx-5-performance-mods-and-upgrades/ and this: www.pinterest.com.au/pin/436708495111192981/
Pop the headlights up, disconnect 1 headlight motor, and your Na Miata now winks instead of blinks! It doesn't add horsepower, but does add pulling power😉
Maybe i missed it but a tunable ecu will be my first power mod on every one of my future project cars. Besides a muffler. When doing my nb2 miata, i began with headers and intake and high-flow cat. Then resonated mid pipe and muffler. The muffler was the biggest improvement over everything installed. None of the rest makes any extra linear power without a computer in my opinion. It will be my next purchase because i may go turbo in a few years. I love my miata still after 8 years. Its mine.
8 years is a great length of time to really get intimate with your car, glad to hear you have stuck with it for the long haul! Fair point, I wouldn't say I missed an ECU, I just didn't think it quite fits in the top 10 "cheap" category. Generally they cost at least about $1000 depending on what you get and where you are in the world, and then they cost another $1000 or so to setup and tune properly. Obviously theres so many different ways to build a car, and everyone skills vary so costs of parts for some people are different to others.
@@Bbeavis very true. My journey with Matilda began when i left the navy and persued automotive technology school. It taught me so much. All i knew back then was the rotary engine and forced induction worked. I learned pistons with this car
While an ECU is great for opening up an engine's capabilities, generally an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as 'cheap', because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. There are some very cost effective ECUs for the Miata MX5 nowadays, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
I addressed that in the video fairly clearly but obviously there's a difference between all the custom work of an "engine swap" such as an LS or Honda engine vs installing a $500 bolt in BP1.8 engine in place of what was an old 1.6.
Well, I've had her for 14 great years, but have the 350Z and too many cars. MX5 is wayway a truer sports car than the Z - but, I must be an arsehole :)
I personally would skip the intake modification and just use A factory replacement K&N drop in air filter. Next learn how to do the Gadgetman groove on the throttle body. Helps with the high end power but makes your throttle response different. Don't do this if you like to use cruise control or have an electronic throttle body. Adjusting the TPS can give you better MPG or more power depending on which way you adjust it. Just make sure to mark the original setting before moving the sensor. I also have A prototype that lets me advance the timing much more than everyone else without having problems with knock. It's for me only... Use at your own risk... The Initial Designer of all Miatas and many other vehicles...
Very interesting, thanks for sharing your thoughts 787b. I have not seen the gadgetman groove before, seems very curious indeed. Are you truly the Initial Designer of all Miatas?
Great video and very timely. My 1.6 is getting a few corona upgrades at the moment and when it's back together I'll have 1-7 covered. Next will be the head skim but that might have to wait a year or so. Love your videos and content. Keep up the excellent work.
That's all dependent on your preferences and the types of tracks your running. Tight tracks/autocross? A couple degrees camber and a bit of toe out will make your turn ins great. Long straights or faster tracks? A wee bit of toe in and lighter camber depending on the turns you're expecting. I'd go somewhere other than UA-cam comments to do that kind of research though.
A Honda motor swap is not going to be cheap, compared to using a motor from the same family. Updating to a 1.8BP is essentially bolt in, so the ancillary cost is minimal. Making a Honda motor fit an MX-5/Miata requires a lot of other components to be replaced... which is somewhat outside of the topic of this video.
Good suggestions, for anyone wondering here is a discussion on the topic: www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/definative-exintake-swap-cam-timing-thread-no-questions-only-answers-27294/
Awesome vid man!! Next mod for my car will have to be coilovers to go with my re003's and a cold air intake. However a buzzing sound coming from the engine just before 3k revs has me worried about spending money atm... cant seem to figure this one out. Any suggestions? Before i take it to the mechanic, covid has me not working so saving money is key for me rn
Thanks Ruben! coilovers add a great dynamic to an MX5/Miata. A buzzing noise is very hard to diagnose through the internet sadly, it depends on when it comes up, how, what speed, then maybe you can determine the cause.
@@Bbeavis oh it was actually quite simple, i just removed the exhaust heat shield (after i may or may not have overtightened one of the bolts 😅). Noise is somewhat gone, but the biggest issue is a ticking sound coming from the intake manifold area. Changes speed with rpm... i know its not lifter tick cause the 01+ has solid lifters
The cold air intake sounds awesome and easy, but I'm looking under my 1990 NA6 bonnet. I'm thinking: you really have to take the intake out of the engine bay - as some do, that means punching a big hole through the bulkhead into the wiper arm channel. I hate hacking like that. Bult if don't do that I don't see the advantage? Maybe i've got it wrong. But look at what the Mazda engineers have already done. The stock intake is routed as far as possible from the exhaust manifold, which already has a heat shield. Can I improve on that without hacking? It doesn't look like it. Thoughts anyone?
Good point Alex, you are on the right track. There are other solutions, adding ducting/hose to get cool air in somewhere. Routing the intake down to the front bumper somewhere. None of these are super easy/simple. But there are many possibilities. Certainly, just slapping a pod filter next to the hot exhaust is not a good solution.
RX7 afm i can't recommend. Maybe it's because i also live in a colder region but idle rpm got unstable. Stock afm much better unless you intend to have a redline party every ride.
@@Bbeavis It does have its usage which starts at around 6000 rpm but then again, how often do you really drive it over 6k? Maybe for a dedicated AutoX build or when you're using the car as drift missile but your average driver won't need it and it'll lead to more problems.
With the 1.6 NBs we feel a bit left over, no exhaust manifold, can't do the RX7 AFM swap, the head is quite good flowing, no really improvement with a muffler nor a cat delete... And with all that goodness it's making only 110hp. I did the 5° additional timing, I plan on doing the head skimming (≈0.9-1mm), but there is not much else right?
Yeah certainly a potentially good option if you have the skill to implement these in a cheap and effective way. ITB's are often not well executed and result in a poor gain for the time and money.
Do you need to have anything to be able to handle a supercharger on a 1.8 stock? Like will the engine completely shit itself or will it handle it really well?
I totally agree, an ECU is great for opening up an engine's capabilities. However usually an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as cheap, because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. There are some very cost effective ECUs for the miata MX5 nowadays, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
@@Bbeavis I recently bought a 1990 Miata with engine swapped to 1998 1.8 with ECU "ECU-Master". Tuned to 145 hp. Runs perfectly but guys had a problem with rpm that goes too low when you release accelerator when switched to neutral. It goes so low that it can die. Prev owner told me it should be fixed with a slight more tuning the ECU, but my concerns that it sucks air somewhere. The original airbox was removed and an airfilter was installed. However it was installed badly and I have a hot air intake. I own this car for 3 weeks now and after i change all liquids, and fix the e-brake so i can pass the MOT in my country i will start looking at the engine. Btw, if anyone have an idea what else can make the revs low down, i would really appreciate that
Change car might be better than doing all this! I kept mine original and i have enough power! 😅 if you are racing on tracks or living in Germany ok but like in North America going fast cost speeding tickets!😂
@@Bbeavis it is not too fast for me it is too fast for the speed limit! Where i live it is 100km on hwy and the car goes to 140km and not even floored! So what the use if i get it modify and dont race? Nothing!
Lots of clips of cars in this video so going to assume you mean for the car in the first scene? Pretty common and easy to find, search "MX5 GV Lip" and "NA MX5 side skirt".
Im honestly afraid to go over 5k rpm - sounds like the little guy is gonna blow its brains out. Anyone else worried about this? 114k miles on original 1.6 (and sadly... an Auto). I don't wanna hear flack about the Auto, its "technically" not my car... I just do all of the work on it, and am the only one that drives it. lol!
The car will mostly not be able to kill itself if you rev it out to the ~7k rpm limit. Don't be afraid to do it sometimes... but also don't do it ALL the time.
There's lots clips of different cars in the video, but I am going to assume you're referring to the car at the start and in the thumbnail. Axis OG Banzai 15x8 +25 Tyres are 205 50 15
Just freshen up the motor and get some sexy quality light wheels and tyres then remove carpet and as much weight as you can. It'll do everything better and be a bit more noisy for extra sensory stimulation. After that, engine swap.
Light wheels are good. I wouldn't recommend removing carpet from anything but a race car. It's actually very light, sure remove the sound deadener and rubber mats, but the carpet can stay to keep the car a little more comfortable.
@@Bbeavis Good point. Insulation out, carpet can stay. That mass is low on the car anyway. Best remove mass from areas that are high and close to extremities. Removing/relocating mass where it counts is the most underrated mod of all. Even 100 lbs + removed on a light car is significant and tightens it up.
@@Bbeavis fundamentally cars like older porche 911s are more balanced with better power while still maintaining reliability. Miatas are awesome but there are definitely better examples of a sports car to study. Miatas are cool, I own an NA6 and an NB, but the power to weight ratio alone ruins its shot of "best sports car of all time".
The cowl intake? Unfortunately it came with the car when I purchased it, so I'm not really sure where to find them. I've never seen one for sale online, so perhaps something custom?
Good suggestions, for anyone wondering here is a discussion on the topic: www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/definative-exintake-swap-cam-timing-thread-no-questions-only-answers-27294/
@@Bbeavis That is true, but in terms of thermodynamics and physical allowed space in the engine bay, there is very minimal gain in our engine bays unless you run piping underneath the fenders and mount your filter directly behind the headlight or in the grille
@@setomode1431 depends how much you want to spend and what sort of engine you are building, for the average naturally aspirated car maybe up to 150hp For forced induction anywhere up to 250hp or so for "budget" boosted... and up to 400hp or more if you spend a lot of money.
@@Itsfergus What if a person just likes to tinker, or just enjoys making their car unique. It's not always about the most expensive parts or cars being the best.
Dont get me wrong, i love Mazda and i kike the Mx5 but i wouldnt call it a sports car. It's a sporty car but in my opinion it isn't a sports car. Hell of fun tho =p
I'm just quoting the worlds motoring community when I call it a sports car, thats what they call it. I don't get it when people call a Mustrang a sports car, I thought that was a muscle car? Nothing sporty about being fat with a lumpy V8 that crashed into crowds :-P
Or just save your pennies for a turbo because its the only thing that'll wake up an Mx5. All the other "cheap" mods will make next to no difference in real world performance... How do I know? I've had mine 20 years and 15 of that has been turbod
@@Bbeavis na, the mazda klde, klze, kfze k8 etc V6 family. Their fwd engines but they can be rotated into the rwd application. Theres a few examples in the UK. The sound they make is phenomenal.
HaHaaa,,,,,,I got So Heated at the Ebay/Headers are Easy Pie Spiel that I totally forgot these are all MX-5//Miata Specific!!!! I was all Whaaaat??? Doin headers on a lifted Chevy can make you put yourself on TimeOut!!!! And Wonder which neighbours yard your Ratchet is in!!! Hmmm,,,,Since my favorite thing is harassing "SuperCars"on the HWY with my StreetBikes....I can get into this Miata Life and $$Saved on insurance==SuperCharger Fund....I bet in a Standard steering miata...Youd feel Every Shoelace in the street...Damnitt,,,,,Just like Vespas,,,,,,,I have alotta Miata drivers(Men) I owe apologies to......SORRY GUYS.....
Not to be an ass, but you shouldn't be buying anything older than a NC miata these days. The NC is pretty much what you would get if you spend 1000s of dollars on a nb or an na. Skip the hassle and get a stock nc. Also, they're not rust buckets.
That's not being an ass, but certainly an opinion many wouldn't agree with. Now that the NC is becoming a cheaper option i think it will be more viable for the cheap track toy category. Obviously the NA/NB platform had a good head start so we shall see how the market changes in the next 5 years or so.
Need help with your MX-5 Miata, I have a heap of technical guides here: ua-cam.com/play/PLongVur9FFho3xHKJjbWPyYBQK0N9ADO5.html
instaBlaster.
No mention of "painting things red" or "adding stickers"? Disappointing.
I like to keep my performance suggestions to be real world actual power/speed gains, not "stance" performance. :-P
@@Bbeavis Everybody knows a Type R sticker is worth at least 10 hp.
@@ohboyotero But I thought that only works for Hondas!
BEAVIS Motorsport a sticker on any car adds at least 10 horsepower.
Hey hey hey, steady on there mate!
We're not getting into advanced tuning here.
Getting a 92 supercharged Miata soon and can't wait. This car's a dream.
Awesome, hope it serves you well! :-)
supercharged?
@@williamzhang8397 jackson supercharged miata from factory
At least in the UK, the cool intake mod is normally assumed to go together with timing advance - to avoid pre-ignition of course.
Good point. And certainly the weather in the UK is generally pretty cold anyway, so the risk of pre-ignition isn't as great as some other locations around the world.
@@Bbeavis Prejudice !!🌧🤣🤣
@@Bbeavis
When I look at my NA8 engine and bay I wonder why Mazda routed the air filter plumbing to the exhaust side. There must be sound reasons.
Can a small air filter be fitted directly to the throttle body?
@@BrettHart27 There is theories around the length and size/diameter of the intake system having impacts on power/torque curves. I think the simplified logic is that a very short intake such as a filter directly attached to the throttle body, would result in less torque, or dips in the torque curve, but possibly a more "revvy" engine.
A standalone ECU with tuning is very popular and really does make a difference. Swapping to the exhintake or the MSM intake cam on the NB engine head with an ECU upgrade is also good. ITB's with tuning and other engine mods are also done (not very often though).
I totally agree, an ECU is great for opening up an engine's capabilities. However usually an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as cheap, because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. There are some very cost effective ECUs for the miata MX5 nowadays, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
Exhintake is also a good tip I hadn't considered, thanks for the idea! I've often found ITB's add a great sound, but unless the installer knows what they are doing they don't get the full potential out of them.
ITB’s are not a cheap modification either, in fact they’re among the more expensive naturally aspirated solutions. Plus the intake noise they make is entertaining, but very loud, which effects the civility of a street car.
Honestly the best option is to just find a nice shell with an LSD already in it and put The Answer in. The Answer being as peppy a K20 as you can find... and maybe a snail. If you're handy and have a good relationship with your mechanic you could easily put a K20 in an NB for less than $10k.
MY dream is a 400whp turbo K24 (s2k dash) into a white NC2 with custom carbon hardtop bits and blacked out tint, nice flush bronze six spokes with some Pilot Sports, an inch off the height with some mid-lvl C/Os, front lip back tail no skirts.
A honda powered Mazda is always something i've been interested in.... but not really in the realm of cheap for me.
Cold air intake is good yet 99% of every installed cold air instake kit gets installed next to the exhaust 😂
Makes the car sound fast at least :P
Mine is but I bought it used
And on a 1.6 you gotta get a ECU for anything lmao
Thank you so much!!! I’m planning to get this car for my first, I’m 18 now so imma go after it. This video is exactly what I need cuz I’m definitely gonna modify it the tuner way.
Thank you Havoc, good luck with your future car experiments, keep it safe and please don't go all stance and wreck your miata/mx5's perfect handling!
@@Bbeavis 😂😂 I wouldn't dream of stancing a miata since it's already low enough. I'll jus get some good coilovers and adjust to a ride height that would agree w both me and the pavement
@@HavocJr-gb5kx don’t know if u wil answer, but did u get it? What mods have u done?and how are u doing? Hahah give me a update if u are willing
Throw a 1.8 in there with the biggest turbo you can find. Strip the interior and get rid of unnecessary weight. And now since miatas have no down force, you have yourself a plane.
So many kids these days think that they can go that route (silly big turbo power on the cheap), but then do a shitty job and either break things like a rod out the block, or end up in a ditch.
@@Bbeavis yeah a lot of people also think a 1.8 can handle more boost than a 1.6 which isn't true. And then they snap a rod
Valve springs.
Exhaust cam intake mod.
Plug and play speedy ecu.
All cheap and all will push more then these mods together. Will go amazing with all mods in video aswell as these mods ive added.
Usually an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as cheap, because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. But, the speeduino's are very cost effective, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
@@Bbeavis I second this rebuttle. The cost/time/benefit ratio of an aftermarket ecu is rather low. 8/10 of the mods in the video are require low skill/time/cost investments that don't jeopardize the reliability of the car.
@@joshuacraven6206 Thank you Joshua, that's a very eloquent way of putting it. Exactly the point.
You forgot to mention "Add lightness" converting from PAS to a manual rack will save 8.4kg A/C removal even more. Increase the power to weight ratio for free also better braking.
Adding power makes you faster in a straight line. Removing weight makes you faster everywhere.
Taking the juice out of a power rack just doesn’t seem like an attractive option in terms of a car for street use.
Already save the video when I buy my first Miata ❤️
Fantastic, good luck with your new/used miata search my friend!
BEAVIS Motorsport used, but here on Puerto Rico are expensive af. Thank you sir
When I get my first car I will get a Mazda Miata. I’ll make sure to use these mods
Great choice of car!
It's fun without 'em. Please don't rice something that's already nice.
Tire pressure. Just filling mine up to 30 psi made it feel so much faster.
Yeah anything less than 30psi would be very low, I'd run ~34psi on a street car usually.
Flying Miata suggest 26psi, makes the car feel a lot more planted and the handling is much better, anything above makes the the car a hard ride it may be slightly faster but less enjoyable
I run 35 PSI and I live in a city with crappy roads. I had it up to 40, but I let some air out for safety. The tires are about half life and wearing out pretty evenly. Just a tad more wear towards the center, but pretty close to normal. Just under 30 PSI would probably be perfect for nice grip around corners, but worse for fuel efficiency.
i’m about to get a miata soon i’m so hyped
Awesome, hope it treats you well.
Fantastic update!...I have done everything on your list except for #8...and that's next.
Previously advanced to the supercharged/intercooled route (Absolutely LOVED This) except the SC mounting brackets didn't share the love...back to N.A.
Now having a ball rowing the gears, but, between #8 and maybe a Haltech, kinda going back to the roots of the car and seeing what happens...sticking to what can be done on pump gas...It's all about the journey right? 👊 🍻
We all have different needs for our cars, and all like to do things 'our' way. As long as you enjoy it, that's what matters I suppose. :-)
By adding more HP put a lighter Fly Wheel and you need more Torque origin is only 125 ft/tq change the clutch for a 170 or 190 ft/tq depending af the extra HP you have. Was a good video.
Thank you.
At 5:11 is the most stunning engine bay I've ever seen, I'd eat dinner there and pay a good tip. Do you have a reference or more info about that?
Sadly, I have lost that history, but I did a reverse lookup and found this:
www.topmiata.com/top-10-mazda-miata-mx-5-performance-mods-and-upgrades/
and this: www.pinterest.com.au/pin/436708495111192981/
Show car….
Thank you so much for this video I’m 14 years old and I’m getting a miata soon so I can builds it into a drift build and idk where to get started tbh
Nice I'm fourteen too and hopefully buying one with my uncle in a few weeks
Thanks mate, good luck with your search for the right Mazda for you!
Pop the headlights up, disconnect 1 headlight motor, and your Na Miata now winks instead of blinks! It doesn't add horsepower, but does add pulling power😉
Yeah, if you wanna pull another Miata owner :-P
@@Bbeavis 😂😂😂 still counts right??😂
Maybe i missed it but a tunable ecu will be my first power mod on every one of my future project cars. Besides a muffler. When doing my nb2 miata, i began with headers and intake and high-flow cat. Then resonated mid pipe and muffler. The muffler was the biggest improvement over everything installed. None of the rest makes any extra linear power without a computer in my opinion. It will be my next purchase because i may go turbo in a few years. I love my miata still after 8 years. Its mine.
8 years is a great length of time to really get intimate with your car, glad to hear you have stuck with it for the long haul!
Fair point, I wouldn't say I missed an ECU, I just didn't think it quite fits in the top 10 "cheap" category. Generally they cost at least about $1000 depending on what you get and where you are in the world, and then they cost another $1000 or so to setup and tune properly. Obviously theres so many different ways to build a car, and everyone skills vary so costs of parts for some people are different to others.
@@Bbeavis very true. My journey with Matilda began when i left the navy and persued automotive technology school. It taught me so much. All i knew back then was the rotary engine and forced induction worked. I learned pistons with this car
A good complementing mod to these is a stand alone ecu combine it with a lot of these mods helps. You are going to need a tuner to do it.
While an ECU is great for opening up an engine's capabilities, generally an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as 'cheap', because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. There are some very cost effective ECUs for the Miata MX5 nowadays, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
BEAVIS Motorsport agree a bad tune will ruin the motor. If someone who doesn’t know what they are doing tries to tune in they will mess up the engine.
Okay, good. I'm not the only one doing a paper run
Loll
Top 10 Best CHEAP MX-5 Miata Engine Mods!
Number 9: ENGINE SWAP
I think our ideas of CHEAP might be a little different...
I addressed that in the video fairly clearly but obviously there's a difference between all the custom work of an "engine swap" such as an LS or Honda engine vs installing a $500 bolt in BP1.8 engine in place of what was an old 1.6.
Yeh. Didn't know about skimming the head making that much difference, would've done it. But....getting rid of the ol' girl soon. Thanks for the post.
Sorry to hear about the impending divorce, I hope it is for positive reasons.
Well, I've had her for 14 great years, but have the 350Z and too many cars. MX5 is wayway a truer sports car than the Z - but, I must be an arsehole :)
great video for me at this time , while im building mines
Thanks Cre8tiveGarage, glad to hear I was in some way helpful!
Thanks great vid , im loving my nb , what a truly enjoyable car to drive
Thank you, glad to hear that you too enjoy the little Mazda as much as the rest of us 'addicts'!
I have a 1990 RX-7 convertible. The engine light is on. What should I look for to troubleshoot?
You may want to start with checking the detail of the error from the diagnostic port.
fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORCODES/KOUKI/kerror.html
14° is possible for the NB too, you just have to make the timing wheel adjustable with a file
Ah, true, although a little more risky perhaps? And not as common!
I personally would skip the intake modification and just use A factory replacement K&N drop in air filter.
Next learn how to do the Gadgetman groove on the throttle body. Helps with the high end power but makes your throttle response different. Don't do this if you like to use cruise control or have an electronic throttle body.
Adjusting the TPS can give you better MPG or more power depending on which way you adjust it. Just make sure to mark the original setting before moving the sensor.
I also have A prototype that lets me advance the timing much more than everyone else without having problems with knock. It's for me only...
Use at your own risk...
The Initial Designer of all Miatas and many other vehicles...
Very interesting, thanks for sharing your thoughts 787b. I have not seen the gadgetman groove before, seems very curious indeed. Are you truly the Initial Designer of all Miatas?
@@Bbeavis Yes
In that case thank you very much for your efforts.
@@Bbeavis You are welcome!
Great video and very timely. My 1.6 is getting a few corona upgrades at the moment and when it's back together I'll have 1-7 covered. Next will be the head skim but that might have to wait a year or so. Love your videos and content. Keep up the excellent work.
Thank you Richard. Hope you are staying safe and healthy at this difficult time..... and keeping your MX5 healthy too!
Anyone know what the "cold air intake" shown is? looks randall style but isnt a randall
Its just some generic pod filter housing intake made to fit in the car.
Some stuff for the NC and ND engines. I have a NC1 with a 2.0L engine
Sadly I don't personally have enough detailed experience in playing with the NC and ND too much beyond a standard street car.
Instead of the engine swap I just got the go faster stripes, works a trwat
You need that, some speed holes, and underglow... then you'll own the streets and be unstoppable.
Head skimming: do you need aftermarket engine management to get the benefits?
Like anything, it depends on how much you want out of it, but ideally yes.
Considering the car needs it from stock... I'll say not much more than stock.
I’m building an NB track car. What type of alignment should I have? Any camber? I don’t know much about that stuff.
949 racing / supermiata website have a great guide on alignments: supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx
That's all dependent on your preferences and the types of tracks your running. Tight tracks/autocross? A couple degrees camber and a bit of toe out will make your turn ins great. Long straights or faster tracks? A wee bit of toe in and lighter camber depending on the turns you're expecting. I'd go somewhere other than UA-cam comments to do that kind of research though.
100% correct Tyconicus.
if you’re gonna do an engine swap why not do a Honda K-series…? I heard the K20 fits like a glove
A Honda motor swap is not going to be cheap, compared to using a motor from the same family. Updating to a 1.8BP is essentially bolt in, so the ancillary cost is minimal.
Making a Honda motor fit an MX-5/Miata requires a lot of other components to be replaced... which is somewhat outside of the topic of this video.
how much hp increase is there for a ac and power steering delete.. Both are pretty useful especially the ac it gets hot where i live
As an approximation:
AC: 4kW (5hp)
Alternator: 5-6kW (7-8hp)
Water Pump: 10kW (13hp)
Power Steering: 2-4kW (3-5hp)
Forgot the exhintake cam swap for the 1.8 people. Super cheap for some noticeable power
Huh?
Good suggestions, for anyone wondering here is a discussion on the topic:
www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/definative-exintake-swap-cam-timing-thread-no-questions-only-answers-27294/
Okay, so i cant do it on my vvt motor then? (01-05)
@@rubenm5138 I don't believe so, sorry 😢. It's the basic 1.8s without anything fancy.
@@guidosaur7506 got me excited there for a second hahaha. All good mate, ill resort to painting the lettering on my engine red for the time being
What is considered "run low boost" on a 1.6? 10? 15? What's the weakest link in the chain - pistons, crank or block?
It's obviously an opinion, but I'd say probably anything under around 8psi.
Usually, conrods bend first. But.... who knows!
Awesome vid man!! Next mod for my car will have to be coilovers to go with my re003's and a cold air intake. However a buzzing sound coming from the engine just before 3k revs has me worried about spending money atm... cant seem to figure this one out. Any suggestions? Before i take it to the mechanic, covid has me not working so saving money is key for me rn
Thanks Ruben! coilovers add a great dynamic to an MX5/Miata. A buzzing noise is very hard to diagnose through the internet sadly, it depends on when it comes up, how, what speed, then maybe you can determine the cause.
@@Bbeavis oh it was actually quite simple, i just removed the exhaust heat shield (after i may or may not have overtightened one of the bolts 😅). Noise is somewhat gone, but the biggest issue is a ticking sound coming from the intake manifold area. Changes speed with rpm... i know its not lifter tick cause the 01+ has solid lifters
@@Bbeavis actually about to head to supercheap soon to make me the air intake 😉
The cold air intake sounds awesome and easy, but I'm looking under my 1990 NA6 bonnet. I'm thinking: you really have to take the intake out of the engine bay - as some do, that means punching a big hole through the bulkhead into the wiper arm channel. I hate hacking like that. Bult if don't do that I don't see the advantage? Maybe i've got it wrong. But look at what the Mazda engineers have already done. The stock intake is routed as far as possible from the exhaust manifold, which already has a heat shield. Can I improve on that without hacking? It doesn't look like it. Thoughts anyone?
Good point Alex, you are on the right track. There are other solutions, adding ducting/hose to get cool air in somewhere. Routing the intake down to the front bumper somewhere. None of these are super easy/simple. But there are many possibilities. Certainly, just slapping a pod filter next to the hot exhaust is not a good solution.
@@Bbeavis im going yo look at the "Extended factory routing" method ... 😆
RX7 afm i can't recommend. Maybe it's because i also live in a colder region but idle rpm got unstable. Stock afm much better unless you intend to have a redline party every ride.
Fair enough, I think it's one of those things that can be good if you are into tinkering and trying little cheap tricks.
@@Bbeavis It does have its usage which starts at around 6000 rpm but then again, how often do you really drive it over 6k? Maybe for a dedicated AutoX build or when you're using the car as drift missile but your average driver won't need it and it'll lead to more problems.
Which rims are those? I love it!
Axis OG Banzai 15x8
With the 1.6 NBs we feel a bit left over, no exhaust manifold, can't do the RX7 AFM swap, the head is quite good flowing, no really improvement with a muffler nor a cat delete... And with all that goodness it's making only 110hp.
I did the 5° additional timing, I plan on doing the head skimming (≈0.9-1mm), but there is not much else right?
Yeah you are kinda outta luck unless you start spending real money on lots of custom parts.
What about an exhintake cam swap, a tuned standalone ECU with ITB's?
Yeah certainly a potentially good option if you have the skill to implement these in a cheap and effective way. ITB's are often not well executed and result in a poor gain for the time and money.
Is that NB mirrors on a NA
Uh, nope. Later NA8 mirrors are slightly chunkier at the base, being electric.
Do you need to have anything to be able to handle a supercharger on a 1.8 stock? Like will the engine completely shit itself or will it handle it really well?
It is mostly related to how much boost, low boost = less chance of issues.
General rule is anything under about 10psi should be fairly safe.
@@Bbeavis Idk much about cars- I’m assuming adding a supercharger forces more fuel (or is it air) into the engine? Hence the psi reference?
@@timspencer520 No, they add more air. Maybe watch some videos on how superchargers work.
Replace the ECU with a Programmable ECU especially if the 1.6 was replaced with a 99 1.8 .
I totally agree, an ECU is great for opening up an engine's capabilities. However usually an ECU isn't something I'd suggest as cheap, because the cost of the unit is relatively high, and then the cost of tuning can be $500-$1000. There are some very cost effective ECUs for the miata MX5 nowadays, and if you know someone who can tune a car for free/cheap, then it's a great option. I'm just hesitant of suggesting "cheap" tunes because it can very quickly break a motor if people don't know what they are doing.
@@Bbeavis I recently bought a 1990 Miata with engine swapped to 1998 1.8 with ECU "ECU-Master". Tuned to 145 hp. Runs perfectly but guys had a problem with rpm that goes too low when you release accelerator when switched to neutral. It goes so low that it can die. Prev owner told me it should be fixed with a slight more tuning the ECU, but my concerns that it sucks air somewhere. The original airbox was removed and an airfilter was installed. However it was installed badly and I have a hot air intake. I own this car for 3 weeks now and after i change all liquids, and fix the e-brake so i can pass the MOT in my country i will start looking at the engine. Btw, if anyone have an idea what else can make the revs low down, i would really appreciate that
Wonder if a nc 2.0 engine swap would be doable into a 1.6 chassis?
Its doable. if you have the time/money/skill.
@@Bbeavis Thank you for the reply👍✌
Change car might be better than doing all this! I kept mine original and i have enough power! 😅 if you are racing on tracks or living in Germany ok but like in North America going fast cost speeding tickets!😂
If an MX-5 Miata is too 'fast' for you, I worry about what other options you have.... they have gotta be one of the slowest cars out there. :-)
@@Bbeavis it is not too fast for me it is too fast for the speed limit! Where i live it is 100km on hwy and the car goes to 140km and not even floored! So what the use if i get it modify and dont race? Nothing!
Hands down the best looking MX5 miata I've ever seen them rims look sexy with the paint job 😍
Thanks mate :)
Is the Miata a everyday car or a weekend car?
YES
What lip and side skirt extensions are these?
Lots of clips of cars in this video so going to assume you mean for the car in the first scene? Pretty common and easy to find, search "MX5 GV Lip" and "NA MX5 side skirt".
Im honestly afraid to go over 5k rpm - sounds like the little guy is gonna blow its brains out. Anyone else worried about this?
114k miles on original 1.6 (and sadly... an Auto). I don't wanna hear flack about the Auto, its "technically" not my car... I just do all of the work on it, and am the only one that drives it. lol!
The car will mostly not be able to kill itself if you rev it out to the ~7k rpm limit. Don't be afraid to do it sometimes... but also don't do it ALL the time.
Don't forget the Ford 5.0L V8 engine swap...it's an NA thing...as in North America.
I do apologize, I have let you down Elgar.
And that adds what 40 horsepower and a shit nose heavy handling characteristic
What’s the little intake filter on the right of the valve cover called?
Google something like "Crankcase / Catch Can Filter"
BEAVIS Motorsport Does that just replace the line that comes from the intake normally?
Yep that is correct.
Hey man what’s your tire and wheel specs? Also what are those wheels called lol?
There's lots clips of different cars in the video, but I am going to assume you're referring to the car at the start and in the thumbnail.
Axis OG Banzai 15x8 +25 Tyres are 205 50 15
Just freshen up the motor and get some sexy quality light wheels and tyres then remove carpet and as much weight as you can. It'll do everything better and be a bit more noisy for extra sensory stimulation. After that, engine swap.
Light wheels are good. I wouldn't recommend removing carpet from anything but a race car. It's actually very light, sure remove the sound deadener and rubber mats, but the carpet can stay to keep the car a little more comfortable.
@@Bbeavis Good point. Insulation out, carpet can stay. That mass is low on the car anyway. Best remove mass from areas that are high and close to extremities. Removing/relocating mass where it counts is the most underrated mod of all. Even 100 lbs + removed on a light car is significant and tightens it up.
i definitely wouldnt call the miata the greastest sports car of all time but it is one of the most popular
What is better?
@@Bbeavis fundamentally cars like older porche 911s are more balanced with better power while still maintaining reliability. Miatas are awesome but there are definitely better examples of a sports car to study. Miatas are cool, I own an NA6 and an NB, but the power to weight ratio alone ruins its shot of "best sports car of all time".
Hmm yes big pee pee
How did you know?
ahahahahahahah...
Good video
Shaun of NYC
Thank you Shaun, I hope you are staying safe!
@@Bbeavis Yes I'm in all the time. Thanks for asking. Hope ur doing well too. Shaun
what about chiptuning? for nb 99
I'm not familiar with anyone who can modify the original ECU's on the NA/NB MX-5s.
Lmao no. Ice cold air when its boiling out: priceless
But, still colder than the the air next to the heat of the exhaust.
0:52 *casually showing a gold intake while talking about affordability*
It's just the reflective "gold" tape, about $15 from your typical ebay/Amazon/website of choice.
@@Bbeavis oohhh didn't knew that
I just detailed one of these and recorded it. Awesome car for sure!!
Very cool! I hope you get to drive them sometimes too :-)
every single one is for an NA
False. Items 1,2,3,6,7,8,9,10 are all applicable to any MX-5. Only 4 & 5 are NA specific.
Narrower tyres for less drag, higher top speed, better acceleration.
Except, no grip, so you crash at the first corner.
😂
What cold air intake is that?
The cowl intake? Unfortunately it came with the car when I purchased it, so I'm not really sure where to find them. I've never seen one for sale online, so perhaps something custom?
Stock manifold a header
Are you saying the Stock manifold is already a "header"? True, for some years of MX-5, but aftermarket ones still tend to flow more efficiently.
exhintake?
Good suggestions, for anyone wondering here is a discussion on the topic:
www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/definative-exintake-swap-cam-timing-thread-no-questions-only-answers-27294/
cold air intake will cause a loss in power due to heat soaking. better off leaving it alone
If you install it properly, duct true cold air in from outside the engine bay, it can be effective over oem.
@@Bbeavis That is true, but in terms of thermodynamics and physical allowed space in the engine bay, there is very minimal gain in our engine bays unless you run piping underneath the fenders and mount your filter directly behind the headlight or in the grille
Where do u buy the parts ?
There are hundreds of stores, marketplaces, Mx5 specialists, all around the world.
What year is this one?
The car in the thumbnail? 1993 Mazda MX-5 NA 1.8
Love the video but "cold air" or hot air intakes don't work
It's certainly a topic of conjecture but, similar to the exhaust, it at least makes the car "sound" fast 😝
@@Bbeavis and it does look 😎 cool
Intake cam in exhaust side .
Yeah that seems like a popular mod too.
wait this is an actual thing?
How much HP do u get if u do all the mods ?
bout a million
@@Bbeavis gotcha, now im gonna buy a miata and do everything!🤣 now let the jokes aside im serious for avg how much HP do u get total?
@@setomode1431 depends how much you want to spend and what sort of engine you are building, for the average naturally aspirated car maybe up to 150hp
For forced induction anywhere up to 250hp or so for "budget" boosted... and up to 400hp or more if you spend a lot of money.
Im thinking about LS swapping a 2000 or bellow Miata, any suggestions for a swap kit?
Lots of info out there for you to make a decision based on your budget and skillset, do some googling.
The best engine mod is to swap the engine ! 😁
Unless you are sticking with one of the Mazda BP engines, it is not cheap though.
There's no point having "cheap modz" just save up and buy good parts or a faster car 😁🤷♂️
@@Itsfergus What if a person just likes to tinker, or just enjoys making their car unique. It's not always about the most expensive parts or cars being the best.
Anyone else think forced induction should have been first after a 1.8L swap?
Well, the intention was to start with the cheaper options.
My modded miata deals 450 HP to the wheels
Well that's quite a lot of power to keep control of.
You forgot to mention NOS!!!!!!!
I also didn't mention going to the gym to lose some body weight :-P
Tyre pressures!!!!
Honestly you are probably right, a lot of people don't know how to setup their car and will spend money on 'parts' to go "faster".
Dont get me wrong, i love Mazda and i kike the Mx5 but i wouldnt call it a sports car. It's a sporty car but in my opinion it isn't a sports car. Hell of fun tho =p
I'm just quoting the worlds motoring community when I call it a sports car, thats what they call it.
I don't get it when people call a Mustrang a sports car, I thought that was a muscle car? Nothing sporty about being fat with a lumpy V8 that crashed into crowds :-P
It's the best sports car. It's number one. It's the best. Number One.
@@Klyke ...with over million sold ,an most of them still on the road ....ya the best sports car .....:-)
So WHAT do YOU call a “sports” car?
@@charlesosbun9381 Probably the 911 or the RX7, Supra mk4
How are we still going by the idea what cold intake actually do anything.
Because it makes for a cheap and easy mod for the kids to do to their car to make more noise.
these are good mods if you're a virgin, real chads do carburettor conversion and high rise headers
Carbs are for boomers.
Non cheap mods: K20 swap
Tesla Swap
Or just save your pennies for a turbo because its the only thing that'll wake up an Mx5. All the other "cheap" mods will make next to no difference in real world performance... How do I know? I've had mine 20 years and 15 of that has been turbod
You don't have to convince me, I have tried them all! But I really do think there's a time and a place for a non boosted car :-)
Swap a k series V6 into it and the sound alone will be worth the hassle.
Do you mean the Honda J series V6?
@@Bbeavis na, the mazda klde, klze, kfze k8 etc V6 family. Their fwd engines but they can be rotated into the rwd application. Theres a few examples in the UK. The sound they make is phenomenal.
HaHaaa,,,,,,I got So Heated at the Ebay/Headers are Easy Pie Spiel that I totally forgot these are all MX-5//Miata Specific!!!! I was all Whaaaat??? Doin headers on a lifted Chevy can make you put yourself on TimeOut!!!! And Wonder which neighbours yard your Ratchet is in!!! Hmmm,,,,Since my favorite thing is harassing "SuperCars"on the HWY with my StreetBikes....I can get into this Miata Life and $$Saved on insurance==SuperCharger Fund....I bet in a Standard steering miata...Youd feel Every Shoelace in the street...Damnitt,,,,,Just like Vespas,,,,,,,I have alotta Miata drivers(Men) I owe apologies to......SORRY GUYS.....
Haha that was a wild ride of a comment to read. Thanks for watching Stacey B.
ah yes the "cold" air intake next to the exhaust. more like a power loss
Yeah I explicitly said route it somewhere that gets cold air.
I'm gonna be that guy... At that point you could just get an NC, if you can stomach it... 😅
Stomach it? Who eats an NC?
where do I buy the piping and filter for the intake? I need quick answers and links please
Google.com
Best cheap engine mod is an eBay turbo kit
Definitely some good bang-for-your-buck to be had with cheapie turbos.
Where was the cheap mod here ?
I guess it's relative, and your budget must be very tight... don't buy a honda! :-P
@@Bbeavis Haha I already have my 2002 MX5 but those mods are way to expensive for me x) and unfortunately most of them are not legal in France 😭
@@julien31415 NOTHING is cheap in France except MAYBE the wine 🍷 and the women?! LOL!
I'm just gonna swap the engine ffs
I like how you end your comment with "FFS", like you are reluctantly forced to do it.
Not to be an ass, but you shouldn't be buying anything older than a NC miata these days. The NC is pretty much what you would get if you spend 1000s of dollars on a nb or an na. Skip the hassle and get a stock nc. Also, they're not rust buckets.
That's not being an ass, but certainly an opinion many wouldn't agree with. Now that the NC is becoming a cheaper option i think it will be more viable for the cheap track toy category. Obviously the NA/NB platform had a good head start so we shall see how the market changes in the next 5 years or so.
@@Bbeavis I ❤️ my 2015 PRHT 6 spd!!
Just change gear and learn about engine torque range!
Well, yes, driver capability is certainly an important part of going "fast".
"removal of alternator belt not recommended"
Removal of alternator would reduce weight....
I want to K-swap a Miata :\
Don't we all!