Excellent Video! Accurate Information. We bought my daughter a 2003 Acura TL about 5 weeks ago with 121,000 miles. Two weeks later transmission would feel like it would slip slightly when going into 3rd gear. One week after that, weird and troublesome shifting when on the road. Another week, hard shift from park to any gear. Sometimes would not go into reverse. 3 days ago, followed this video which gives excellent instructions. Was a bit dis-heartened when the filters on the dual solenoid set were clean. But! was happy (you know what I mean) to find the lower single solenoid filter completely blocked. Easily cleaned. Checked solenoid operation by applying 12V. Also found transmission filter to be restricted so replaced that. When I first stared the car up and put into gear, same things happened but cleared up immediately. The transmission it really running smooth now (4 days). Very happy and scored some points with my daughter. The transmission fluid is a bit discolored and doesn't look like it has been changed. Will flush in next day or too. I hope as much luck to any of you reading this. Thank you very, very much "Incin3ration", creator of this video!
@@jmj_d5207 These times are estimates. About 1 year after the cleaning I had to clean again with same very good results. The car ran great another year but was in an accident that damage the front end and we sold it. Good luck!
I'm glad to see this. I junked my '99 Accord about 4 years ago because I assumed the tranny was shot. I realize now it was the solenoids. I have watched other videos on the subject. I wont make that mistake again.
Thanks for your comment I was just now devastated when the top dual solenoid was clean as can be I’ll get a flex joint and take off the lower one next!
I would give you a hug, man. I'm so happy after my car works again. Thank you very much for video. My tranmission acted up with D5 light flashed and all other crazy stuffs. Scanner gave me code P1750. I followed your instruction and get it done in 1.5 hrs. Tranmission is quite smooth now. Thanks again.
I have a 2000 Acura TL that started shifting hard at about 173K Miles. After viewing your video a few times I went out to my shop and performed your cleaning process of the screens. I found the exact gunk you did loaded up on the one upper screen and the lower screen as well. I didn't have compressed air but used brake parts cleaner to remove the buildup and what can I say but it worked beautifully!!! I could see where a Transmission shop could have made this a $1500-$2000 repair in a complete rebuild that was not needed. I was a little uneasy about reusing the same gaskets but carefully cleaned them off and using transmission fluid on the lower rubber gasket and working it in on the rubber was able to reassemble with no leaks. On my car I didn't need to remove the air pipe to gain access so it saved me time while doing this process. My Acura now shifts beautifully again just like it should... I also did the transmission inline filter at the same time and with an Ohio car the bolts were a little rusty but I sprayed them down with solvent and when the bolts got tight, I stopped, spun them back in, used a small metal brush, tooth brush size (Harbor Freight) to clean the threads and repeated till the bolts came out clean. If I had just tried to crank them out I'm sure they would have broken off making a big problem but taking time to work then out saved the bolts and the threads in the bracket. I used grease on the bolts when re-installing to make sure they would spin out when the filter needs changed again. Hats off to you and thank you VERY much for taking the time to video the process and share it with other Acura/Honda owners. Your videos and the quality of the view and explanation to guide others through various repair processes are 2nd to none! Thanks again and keep up the great works.
I thought my 2000 TL transmission was toast until I found this video. I am the original owner and the car only has 73K on it. I had the trans serviced at the factory suggested 50K which I have found out from you and now others is not nearly often enough. It had been shifting a little weird for a couple of months and then the shifting went wild. The ATF was full. Between gears it was like a stick shift on steroids. Going any gear, when it came time to upshift, the engine completely disengaged from the transmission. The engine would rev from loosing engagement and then the transmission would SLAM into the next gear. I thought for sure I would have broken motor mounts on top of the transmission issues. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I cleaned the four solenoid filters as you suggested. I also put in a new transmission filter, drained the ATF and refilled. The trans hasn't worked this well in years.
So I have a 2003 Acura TL 3.2 Type S with 173,100 miles previously owned by one owner and well maintained. So I got a check engine light come up and read the code and it was P0740( Torque converter Solenoid). I was frightened, but I did my research on Google and UA-cam. Upon that, I stumbled across this video and I was like okay I have similar symptoms of transmission slipping a bit and having a hard time picking up on highway speeds. Also turning and hitting the gas at the same time was a problem. So I decided to do the exact same fix myself. The process was very simple but annoying. I recommend the universal ratchet it helps a lot. Oh I forgot to mention if you do plan on doing this do it on a flat surface because as I was removing the solenoid and the transmission fluid leaked a little to the side. In conclusion the top solenoid screens were clean, but the bottom solenoid screen/filter was very clogged with transmission gunk. I didnt have a air Compressor. So I bought a Computer cleaner can of Compressed air at Staples or office depot. So it did the job and cleaned it right up. After cleaning the screens on all the solenoids I put everything back together and now my transmission feels more responsive and no slips and ill update if anything persist. So far it feels good 👍 the process took about an hour.
That is very good to hear this worked for you! You can also use brake cleaner to clean out the screens as well. In some cases, I've heard of people having to clean the filters twice or even three times, but let's hope it's a one-and-done deal! I also know you said the previous owner took good care of the car, but just make sure the transmission fluid isn't brown, black, or giving off a burnt smell, and always use Honda DW-1. Best of luck to you!
did you buy chance have a leak? i was told at the oils hop i had a leak a small one though. do you think just cleaning the screens/filters helped? and in addition, did you drain ( and/or) flush the trans fluid? i went to autozone got the same code and that was one of the results that was given on the paper. as well as changing shift solenoids.
I just bought a CLS and have been hearing nothing but horror stories about the transmissions. Your updates in the description will help me sleep well at night and i'll be sure to tackle all these projects asap. Thanks for the informative videos
the dealer swapped a rebuilt trany in my 01CLS under warranty then it failed again 13 month later... they asked for $5k, I said: every year? the junk clutch shavings that plug the solenoid screens, should not be there in the 1st place... meaning cleaning is hardly a patch before auctioning, not a fix !
I encourage anyone who is having transmission problems to do this. I did this with NO problem. never done this an it was VERY simple. save ur self the cash. I used throttle body cleaner, and in a 2000 Acura TL their is no need to remove the air box.
I have a 2003 CL type s I just bought about a month ago, car ran perfect and was owned by older lady. Yesterday car started to do this. Will try this fix today, thank you!
If you are thinking about buying an Acura/Honda with a 3.2L engine from 2000 to 2005, DON'T. YOU WILL HAVE THIS ISSUE Excellent video! My issue is a little different. I have a 2003 Acura CL that shudders hard from 2nd to 3rd gear with no CEL. So I changed the shift solenoids 28610-ray-003 and 28600-ray-003, and highly recommend it to anyone whose doing this, they are literally right next to these parts. For me changing the shift solenoids didnt quite do the job, all the other shifts were perfect but from 2nd to 3rd still shuddered. So I kept searching and stumbled on this video and decided to try this out myself. It took me about an hour to an hour and a half and I took it out for a test immediately and everything went perfect, however, as i continue to drive it, it does new things. It just locked me in park after I put gas in it, shudder on the way to the local grocery store. Upon leaving I got up to highway speed rather quickly and the CEL started flashing, but as soon as I pulled over it stopped flashing. I will try to clean the bottom filter (which was totally clogged) again tomorrow, but if it doesnt work I don't know what else to try. Incin3ration if you have any ideas I would love to hear them!
2000 Acura TL, 270K MILES. Factory engine and transmission.I was experiencing severe shuttering at 30 mph... and some slippage.Did 3x tyranny flush/fill and changed external filter. Problem persisted.Tcc error codes on scan tool, so I took it to the garage and they said 'minimum 2500 repair.'I watched this video an cleaned the screens. On mine, the screen on the lower solenoid was blocked. Cleaned easily.BONUS.... I found that the chassis ground near the upper solenoid was corroded. I reattached the grounding terminal with solder... then put everything back together.RESULT:My 270,000 mile car that I bought at 197,000 miles runs like brand new again!!!!The grounding terminal fix seemed to clear up an issue that was throwing an evap canister error code that has been coming up for the past 30k miles. I would reset the code and it would just come back ten miles later. It has been 2000 miles since cleaning the solenoids... no evap canister codes and no tcc error codes.CONCLUSION:This little trick saved me at least 2500.00. THANK YOU.
That's awesome to hear! Gives me confidence my car will also make it that far without any issues! I got 3 years of college left and the last thing I need is a transmission replacement. I'll have to double check that corroded chassis ground thing you mentioned because I currently have the evap canister code. Probably not the cause since the CEL would come on and off every time I filled the tank. But it wouldn't hurt to check.
You might consider installing an externally mounted transmission fluid filter (similar to: amzn.to/2ARMHKC) into your Acura as another form of preventative maintenance.
Ive been having the same problems with my 01 accord, sometimes it wouldn’t even shift while revving. Thank you, you saved me lots of money from buying a new transmission
Yo, you're the man! (self employed mechanic/motorcycles-bikes-cars) I've been working on a customer's 1997 Acura CL 3.0 Base Coupe 123,000 miles w/ several - random transmission problems: AutoZone told the owner that the engine code reader reported a faulty "Main shaft speed sensor" so I replaced that, drained 3 quarts of trans fluid via the drain plug, removed the fill plug put in three quarts of New HONDA SPECIFIC - ATF-DW1 - Which REPLACES HONDA'S REQUIRED ATF-Z1 FLUID. After installing a new drain plug washer/drain plug (w/ 3/8th inch drive extension) three quarts of DW-1 fluid and the new sensor (on the back side of trans/has only two attaching bolts and a tiny/ approx. one inch drive shaft that connects it w/ the trans.). After completing that work & no warning lights illuminated, I test drive the car and it slips horribly in all forward gears or won't move forward at all....I saw your video, cleaned the screens and IT WORKS PERFECTLY NOW! You saved my butt and made me a few more bucks, thank you-Very cool.
Thank you so much took me about two hours all I had to remove was the battery, battery tray and battery tray support and those clips shown in the video, and of course the solenoid top itself. Problem with my 2002 Acura Tl Type S with 93K miles. I had hard shifting, not going into gear, super hard shift going into reverse. Engine codes: P0700(A/T System Malfunction) Transmission Codes: P1750(Clutch Pressure Failure), P1751(2-3 Shift Malfunction). I cleaned the screens with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and then blew with compressed air. I also changed out the transmission fluid and filter.
Thank you, Thank you. Followed your instructions and also changed the tranny filter and fluid. My wife and son considered my efforts a waste of time. They were talking a repair worth more than the value of the car. I drove 10 miles immediately after cleaning and had absolutely no issues, which would normally occur at about 3 miles or when fully warmed. 105,000 miles at time of cleaning/repair - maybe we will make 200,000. This car still looks great with little rust and a few cracks in the leather. I just replaced fog lights 6 months ago and was ready to pull tires tires, lights and all good components to sell used. BTW, fog lights on the web from $150 - $190 for the pair for DIY. Quote from my Acura dealer $480 per pair with install extra.
Hows the car holding up? and yeah the fog assemblies are a little pricey, but as nice as they are, it's not too surprising. When I got my car, it had a hole in the fog light and I replaced it for $60 from amazon! less than 2 years later, same side got another hole in it, but I caught it pretty quickly. I made a custom replacement lens out of LEXAN Polycarbonate. It's just as clear as glass, but also 250 times stronger. Sealed the edges with some weatherproof silicone and it has held up perfectly!
I am very impressed by your diagnosis and willingness to tackle a project like this without formal training. Nice work. Btw clean your area surrounding valve bodies, etc before removal so contaminant aren't introduced. Thumbs up
Thank you so much for this video and the transmission filter/oil change, my 01 cl type s was having extremely hard shifting , sometimes 3rd wouldn't go into gear and sometimes 1st would lag into 2nd and be a very rough shift. Reverse would be a late and rough shift and so on and so on( at the same time learning how to drive without beating down my trans.) .still going to do a 2nd drain n fill because the bolt was literally covered with sludge and metal😭 the screen filters were so gunked up it took a while to clean them out and had to use a lil tissue and a coffee straw to remove some of the crusted gunk. SO AGAIN in 2020 🙏thank you so much for saving my transmission!
That’s awesome to hear it worked for you! I’m glad my videos could be helpful! Keep up with those transmission fluid changes and these cars will last a very long time!
No codes but had trouble shifting into third sometimes (slip, hard shift), and all gears had a similar but less prominent problem. Center filter was pretty clogged on the top solenoid screen set, and the bottom one was also pretty clogged. Cleaned them out with a q tip and mineral spirits (no air gun...) and transmission runs like new! Thank you so much for this video!!!
Another amazing video... I'll be doing this as well soon. My wife's '03 TL (which we love) has been starting out rough... just not catching gears. Will report back. I have to say you have an amazing mind... the way you hold the camera with one hand and still show these things is amazing. Can't thank you enough!
Thank you very much and you're welcome! I certainly try my hardest to get the best picture while actively working! I have good hopes this will work for your car! It has already helped thousands of people!
I dumped my 1999 Accord LX because I thought my tranny was done. Recalling how it behaved there's no doubt in my mind that a solenoid cleaning would've been the fix. Too late for me but glad so many people have been helped by your video.
Yah it’s unfortunate how many people spent thousands rebuilding or replacing the transmission, or even buying a new vehicle over an issue as simple as this. That’s why it was called the “code of death” for a long time. Not anymore though! Hope your new car serves you well, thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple That was about 6 years ago. I bought another 6th gen Accord, a 2000 LX with about 48,000 miles. I drove about 2 years then my mom needed a car so I sent it to her and she has it up to about 75,000 miles and never failed her. She loves it. I drive an '02 Accord I found with about 35,000 miles shortly after sending my mom the Accord. I believe in the cars and keep tranny fluid clean on both.
Awesome video, I have a 2005 TL and one about a year ago I got that P0740 error code,,, it went away by itself, but I knew something was wrong and feared transmission problems, now I know what to do. Knowledge is power, thank you
Really good info. My 1999 Acura CL was not shifting correctly. I followed this video and found the filters completely cogged. I cleaned them out and now it shifts fine and as expected. Thanks!
Thanks so much for making the video! I've got an Acura TL 2002- getting the P0740 code for Torque Converter Clutch Circuit and several sites recommended replacing the $250+ Solenoid but first I'll try cleaning them as you most excellently demonstrated!! Thanks again!
You are very welcome! Yes cleaning these tiny filters can definitely make a worlds difference! Otherwise, replacing the solenoid is still a lot better than spending thousands on a new/rebuilt transmission. Good luck!
This fix works great, we have 2001 Honda Accord EX V6. Part Numbers and suggested bolt replacement. I suggest replacing at least the two rear bolts with Allen Head Bolts for replacement ease., the Bolts # 81673 are Metric 6mm X 25mm and Flats#87926 6mm metric flat 3 "O-Rings", Honda OEM Part# 91301PC9003 O-Ring 7.7 X 2.3 "Google it" The Gasket OEM Part# is 28252-PAX--000. The Complete Solenoid Assembly OEM Part # 28250-P6H-024.
What I recommend to everyone who gonna do this job, buy new solenoid gaskets and small rubber seals. These bits are cheap and worth to replace especially if car is older than 10 years
Just in case this doesn't work for anyone.. You may consider doing a AV6 swap .. You can goggle it ,but I was short on luck. my transmission shop was/is willing to do it but told me the donor transmission needs to be 20,000 - 45,000 miles. He said with all the V6 trannys up to 2010 are vunerable to slipping after 50-60,000 miles... The issue is still there. Some who did the swap are kinda still riding on luck. But it still worth a shot... I'm gonna still try but I can't find anything under 50,000 anywhere.. But I think it's due to them still being used and possibly rebuilt. But this video is working for me so far after 1 drain & fill .
I have a 2000 acura tl i just replaced the trans with a used one.it had a similar problem shifting into 3rd gear.i watch your video last night today i did exactly like you did in you video.the bottom selonoid filter was completly clogged with friction material cleaned with throddle body cleaner.test drove it a few miles and it seems to be much smoother ride.great video very informative.thankyou for your help i will subscribe to your channel.thanx again.
Most common mistakes made by mechanic technicians is that they mis diagnose the problem and rebuild the whole unit; when it could be a small part that's is wrong! Heat is the enemy of transmissions, most of the time on high mile vehicles it's the shift solenoids that get dirty and cause shifting problems. not all trans are the same in design just like not all transmission builders are any good especially when they rather rebuild than diagnose a common sense problem, nice vid...
Thanks! Yes heat is definitely a problem, which is exactly why this vehicle had a transmission recall to get an oil jet installed. Initially before I figured this solenoid solution out, nobody wanted to diagnose my transmission and just straight up quoted me thousands of dollars to do a rebuild. I hope more people can learn about this relatively simple fix to avoid wasting thousands.
Incin3ration so this fixed your transmission?? All that material in the screen is clutch material so it’s just a matter of time before the problem returns
I have seen very early signs of shifting trouble, I'm gonna do this next weekend and see if I see a difference! I too have an 02 TL-S, I will post results
Saw this video November 2019 my 02 TL was doing the same think slipping and coming out of gear. So I gave it a shot both top and bottom were clogged. Cleaned them both up and now runs great!! Thank for the video much Love
Thank you sir! Video helped heal my TLS 2003. P0740 Photos from the central filter solenoid control a, b, c: (28250-P6H-024, 28250-P7W-003) 100% true. Mileage 106K Ukraine, Kiev Alexander
I just did this on my 2001 Acura TL with 231k miles on original trans. Was shifting weird from 2nd to 3rd. Sometimes hard, sometimes missed, sometimes slipping and surging. No light or code. Screens were clogged exactly like in the video. Also did the first drain and fill of the 3x3qt with Maxlife. Two test drives and it seems to have fixed it. Thanks for the video!!!
My co-worker has a car with transmission issues on their TL and the repair shop was claiming $2500 to fix (about to call and confirm that it really is the solenoids since her son took it in). Even if we were to replace just the solenoids, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much (found them on RockAuto for ~$150 a piece). Heck, they bought the car for only $3200. I'm down to saving them some $ even if I spend an hour or two to do it myself.
Yah it is a relatively easy job to do. Just a lot of parts to remove first. When I first initially called a transmission shop, they weren't even willing to try and find a solution, but rather just quoted me about $2500 to rebuild the transmission. I said screw that and ended up discovering and fixing the issue myself. I can't guarantee you this will fix your problems, but it has helped most people. Good luck!
Thank you for these videos! Although we dont have the same engine we do have the same transmission (2003 honda pilot here that had the oil jet recall over the fill bolt as well...did not know why I couldnt find the fill bolt until I watched your other video! 😂 I filled through the dipstick tube like you do) so your help on these things is very much appreciated! 👍👍😊😊
I have 2002 Acura mdx i will try this method, my mdx upshifts pretty bad only sometimes but sometimes it changes pretty good I have taken it to many mechanics there recommendation was to rebuild transmission or replace it with new one but i will let you guys know after trying this I honestly am glad we have ones like you that tries to help others thank you very much for you video.
Thank you very much! I do what I can! And I had the same symptoms at first, where sometimes it would shift good and sometimes bad. But with time it progressed and got worse. Good luck! I hope it works!
Before taking all that crap out of your engine bay try 10 oz of Sea Foam Trans Tune down the dip stick tube. Drive it for 300 miles then change the Transmission fluid. It worked for me. The code cleared and it's shifting smooth. Sea foam desolved all the sludge that was built-up in the sensor screens and other parts of the transmission.
Man I love your video! You're saving lots of people tons of money and headaches. Just a suggestion it might be worthwhile to do a video on how to safely put your car on Jack stands. Everybody knows about the Jack points on the sides of the car but not many people know how To safely put the car on stance To safely put the car on stands. Also maybe A good idea to show how people how to change the PCV valve. Mine went bad the other day and I know many people don't even bother to change it but it controls a lot of different things. Thanks for all the good work!
Hey Dave Rajkumar, I made a PCV Valve video that I hope you’ll enjoy! Thanks for the video request! I’ll look into making a video on how to place a vehicle on jack stands as well
I am super excited to try this as I have 2000 Acura TL 2.3 with 223,000 miles on it and the check engine light and the PO740 code was thrown at me...every mechanic I called in the Bay Area said "Junk the car the transmission is shot" - basically I think all mechanics would much rather work on putting in a new transmission then trying to fix the problem because they know you will be desperate to fix it so may as well get a new transmission. The mechanics are well compensated for their time and if it doesn't work then they can try again at your wallet's expense. I will follow up with everyone in 2 weeks....p.s. I am no mechanic but this will be a cool challenge and if that code is gone and the CEL is gone too!!! It will be so worth it! Thanks for the video! Another guy posted a video last week who just replaced the 1st solenoid (lies flat) and said that also cleared his problem - - probably because the filters were dirty on his old one...
yah I had a similar experience. The mechanics won't even bother diagnosing the transmission to find a possible solution. They just want $$$. I'm looking forward to hearing your results!
Update: Bought the solenoid part. Drained Transmission Fluid (not much there and it was clay brown-black color). Replaced with Acura Transmission oil (3 quarts) and drove the car about 65 miles and all the monitors reset. BUT then I drove the car on the highway at around the 75th mile from disconnecting the battery (to take out the check engine light) and the Check Engine Light came back on with the TCS - same code. So my next step is to chance the solenoid...Hopefully it will take care of the problem. The car changes gears great...but I noticed when driven for about 40 minutes - after I kill the engine and restart it chokes - meaning it's like turning the key when the engine is on - you get that same sound on turning on the engine after it's been running, turning the engine off and then returning it back on - but there is ample coolant - so I guess I'll just have to see what happens when I install the solenoid in the next week...and report back WISH ME SOME GREAT LUCK y'all (lol).
Update: i just installed the solenoid today! Thanks 4 the video - it was super helpful! Okay so no I need to drive the car for about 50 - 65 miles. The car shifted fine before but after all the monitors clear, the CE Light goes off with the TCS...I drove the car today to clear the monitors (prior to installing just to see if I can get it smogged and then drop in a new solenoid - but the monitors cleared while I was on the highway and the CE Light came back on with the TCS...which prompted me to install a new solenoid). Also - I checked the filters and they were clean...could see no build up so either this will work or it wont...Will follow up with results.
Update: Well....the results are in - NEGATIVE! I installed the new solenoid and actually threw in new transmission oil and same behavior - after all the monitors clear it throws a Check Engine Light on top of the TCS or TCL light coming on. It seems to me that it's more of an electrical wiring problem because the car shifts fine. It has 223,000 miles on it and the code says that the clutch is open - which is why it makes me think there is an electrical problem that engages once the Cat monitor is cleared from Incomplete to OK status - that's the time it comes on....Oh well - time to figure out Plan B. I want to say that it's worth a try to replace the solenoid - I bought a new one so I know it works...AND I cleaned the screens which were already clean (3 total) and looked through another cylinder fitting that had no screen on either side. BUT - It is an interesting experiment and the power of the internet and everyone sharing their experiences HELPS EACH OTHER vs being charged $400+ only to be told the problem is still there - lol - Plus I got to learn how to do this myself! That was fun! Cheers!
It would have been helpful to know you can accidentally blow the screen out of the tube and lose it. I lost two. Guess that's why it's better to clean with a spray than compressed air.
Running an 2001 Acura Cl with 254,000 miles on original transmission and engine. Will be attempting this project tomorrow. The car seems to not want to change out of higher gears but there is no real jerking, no banging, none of the classic symptoms I have have with other transmissions that went out on me. Thanks for the info I got a P0740 code at autozone today after the engine light and TCS light came on at the same time. TCS turned off after cranking engine again, I will post tomorrow when done and let you know about the results.
Incin3ration well the resistance on the two units were 5.2 just like yours. The screens were medium biuld up but the real problem is the trsnsmission fuild is so old it looks grey. i did not notice any metal flakes just grey, burnt smelling transmission fluid. will be doing the 3 quart drain method commonly seen on other youtube channels. Currently the engine light is off but i assume this is normal and the P0740 code will trigger again ain the near future. Thanks for the help this video is extrrmely helpful at getting me on the right track. As of rigt now the car seems to operate normally. Fingers crossed I'll keep ya posted!
I'm glad it helped! And that little bit of gunk is all it takes to cause a problem. Assuming your transmission is just like mine, make sure you get Honda DW-1 ATF and none of that aftermarket junk. DW-1 is the new and improved formula that replaces Honda's old Z1 ATF. If your ATF really is as black and burnt smelling as you say it is, I might even recommend doing the first drain and fill, driving your car for a week, and then doing another drain and fill the next weekend. The fluid should be red. You can get a case of 12 quarts on eBay for $89 which will last you a good 3-4 years. Obviously with these transmissions being notorious for failing, you can't trust what the manual says in this case. I would recommend making it a habit to do a single drain and fill once every 15,000 miles after this. If your car had the transmission recall done, it might be easier to put the ATF in through the ATF dipstick hole.
I use seafoam trans tune and did the same work . Its amazing everybody thinks that the transmision are bad or something like that and everything is clogged like those solenoid screens
my 02 Acura cl died on me when it hit 130k - i replaced it with 06 odyssey transmission - direct fit. no issues ever since. For cheap replacement solenoids - get it from local junk yard - check their odyssey parts
My 03 TL Type S coded the p0740 several months ago. Since then, it won't shift from first gear. I try to crank it and idle it around the parking lot so that it doesn't just sit there and fall into further disrepair. It only has 298k miles on it. I'm going to try this. Between all of the videos on here, the Hayes manual, and the official Honda/Acura repair manual pdf, I hope I can get it back on the road. It's surprising how much more difficult it is to work on a car in an apartment parking lot than it is in a yard or a driveway.
Yah working on a car at home is way more convenient! This repair has helped a lot of people! But if this doesn't work, people have also told me replacing the solenoid itself has fixed their vehicles as well. Good luck!
I suppose if it’s the first time being removed in 20 years, it’s possible. Never heard anyone tell me it was stuck in there after removing the 6 screws. I may have also prepared the solenoid before filming it, so it might just take a little wiggling and muscle.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple muscle work dad took it off I’m scared to break anything like I said had trouble shifting into 4th haven’t hit 5th yet or changed the fluid just cleaned both of them like in your video now putting everything back finally hope it’s fixed if not at least the same don’t want to do damage to it and make it worse then it already is the screens weren’t that dirty even the bottom kind of worried
Big Germ it surprisingly doesn’t take much junk to restrict the flow in the solenoids and cause CEL and problems. I would definitely change the fluid next and soon! Lemme know if cleaning the solenoids worked, good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple about to test drive again for 2nd time since I bought it after if it didn’t do nun I’m gonna do the drain 3 qt refill I already have 1 qt gonna go back to the dealer tmro and get the other 2
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple can it being overfilled with transmission fluid also be a problem ? The car drove exactly the same smh didn’t want to shift 4th floored it
Спасибо, сэр! Видео помог исцелить мои TLS 2003. P0740 Фотографии от центрального фильтра управления соленоида, б, в: (28250-P6H-024, 28250-P7W-003) 100% правда. Пробег 106K Украины, Киев Александр
Hi Incin, totally awesome instructional video. Really well though out and I appreciate including initial pics and identifying a 2nd solenoid area towards the bottom. I have a 6th generation (98-02) Accord v6 and looking at my engine compartment it appears my transmission is set up the same. Would you be able to concur? I have 200k and started having intermittent shifting delays so I replaced my water pump and timing belt. Of course that was not the problem. I did a transmission fluid change but still have issue. When idling with brake on and shift through gears there is a definite jolt going from D4 to 2. Going back up seems the same when moving from 1 to 2. Sometimes there is a delay into second when starting from stoplight. However I also notice that if I'm heavy on the pedal shifting sometimes seems smoother. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Again thank you, Michael
Does only the lower Solenoid, the one that’s held by 4 bolts, have a gasket? Or does the Top Solenoid have one, too? Thank you for making this Video! I now have the confidence needed to do the work myself on my ‘02 Acura TL. Your instructional videos save me Money 💵
Yeah the bottom one has an all in one gasket and filter. The top solenoid has three o-ring gaskets that go around the tube filters. I'm glad my video was helpful! Good luck to you!
last question, these are your shift solenoids correct? the autozone paper you receive after getting a code tells me P0740 and suggested job is to replace shift solenoids , and drain(and/or) flush transmission fluid. did you clean the screens so you would have to replace any parts?
@@414NashBaby these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody. Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.
What was your odyssey doing? We were cruising down the highway and it just stopped shifting and wouldn't even rev up. We thought the whole transmission was messed up so we towed it back to the house and then a few weeks later, my husband started it up and was able to drive it around the block. Were thinking that this screen is the problem
Thank you very nice video! When driving cold by transmission shift perfectly isn’t till it starts heating up and on the way home in stop and go traffic, the transmission starts slipping and acting up in third gear downshifting unexpectedly and the other day when I came home it wouldn’t even get out of second gear! I had to take side streets home… I am hoping and praying that this will fix it? what do you think? It’s about three or $4000 for a new transmission.
I have had these symptoms and heard of other people experiencing similar things where the transmission works on a cold start and starts acting up once warm. Definitely give this a try, it’s free to do and can only do good! Otherwise, make sure your ATF is clean and not over/underfilled
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I have this argument with mechanics all the time… But you check the transmission fluid after the car has warmed up completely and then you shut the motor off and then you check it within 30 seconds is that correct? Thank you very much for replying!
@@weebleslove469 yah, bring the car up to full operating temperature, park the car on a level surface, shut the engine off, and check the dipstick. I suppose it could be different for other vehicles, but it should tell you in your specific cars owners manual.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplemost definitely not but thanks to you it is now alot easier! I have 189k og miles. After i do this i will come back and let it be known if jt helped
I couldn’t get the Stubborn Bolts loose when I was trying to remove the Battery Plate. They were on Very Tight! Did you have trouble removing those Bolts holding the Battery Plate?
Yeah some of them can be stubborn, especially if they've never been removed before in the last 16 years. I use my biggest ratchet and longest extension to remove them. Maybe try an impact drill?
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks, seriously. I any got the first three cleaned before I ran out of sunlight, and couldn't find the last one but I'm gonna look into it more next day off. Just cleaning these three made a huge difference and took the check engine light off
You da man! Cleaning these two spots fixed my issue. At least for the rest drive last night. Time will tell. Thank you! For everyone else. I have a 2003 Honda Pilot. Code P0730. Hard and random down shifting from 4 to 2nd/3rd. Hard up/down shifting, randomly. I thought the trans was going to fall out. It would slip at times too, to the point of not moving. It was very unsafe. I cleaned these two spot and it’s running perfect now. Lower screen was 100% clogged. Upper/middle was 90% clogged.
@@motofun72 is your transmission fluid clean? and is it at the proper level? Low transmission fluid or simply changing the fluid has worked wonders for people that I've heard from. Also when was the last time your exterior transmission filter was changed? All very important things to consider, especially since your screen filters are getting clogged. Also, it is possible the solenoids themselves are bad. Maybe look into that as well to see if they're functioning properly and whether or not they need to be replaced.
Incin3ration I changed my oil last week and it’s at the proper level. I’m going to change my trans oil again this coming up week along with the external filter and 3rd/4th pressure switches (bought from Amazon). If that doesn’t fix it, then I will test A/B solenoids (those are harder to get to, so I need more time). My fingers are crossed.
Hey man, great info. Hopefully this will fix my shift delays from 1-2 and 3-4 and my CEL (pressure solenoid failure), without having to totally replace the solenoids, on my ‘01 CL-S. Quick question: did you change the fluid before or after doing this? Trying to decide if it would be better to change the fluid before hand, to avoid having to clean gunk out of those screens again if I change fluid after...will be doing the 3x drain and fill and changing the external spin-on filter as well
If it's an option, yes, I would recommend changing the transmission fluid and spin-on filter first and cleaning the solenoid screen filters after. Of course, it requires the same disassembly to do both jobs, so you can get both done at the same time! Good luck!
Yes, I reused the Solenoid Gaskets and the O-ring gaskets. If you lost one or need a new one, they are available on any Acura parts website under the section "AT Sensor - Solenoid."
How clean is the transmission fluid? The stuff clogging up the screen filters is clutch material. I would recommend doing a transmission drain and fill. Also when was the last time your exterior transmission filter was changed? Doing that would definitely clean up the fluid a lot as well. Just make sure to use Honda DW-1 and an OEM Honda filter. The filter is a bit expensive but worth it. Check out my video on how to do it! ua-cam.com/video/SjYVD2WCrCM/v-deo.html
I just bought a used jdm trans for $450, the original one i had in my 03 tl-s torque converter crapped, I’ve since swapped them and ran it for a week and same codes came up p0730-p0740, I’ll clean the solenoids both top and bottom in a few days and see it thats causing my rough shifts between 2-3rd gear.
170k miles was running perfect then random p0704 code which i cleared then noticed slipping couple days later and got to the point today where car just wouldn’t move when in gear just rev or take a long time to shift to the gear and be able to move. Did a 3.5 quart drain and fill with new filter and had grayish peanut butter texture on the drain bolt magnet with pretty burnt fluid but definitely not the worst .checked both solenoids today and to my surprise they were both spotless should i try changing the whole solenoids themselves or lost cause ??? also got code p0703 today the 0704 hasn’t came back and p0703 cleared when i disconnected battery to perform this but still slips on heavy throttle and im guessing it’ll still do the standstill/harsh random downshifts . any info or lost cause???
I have a couple comments to make: 1. You said your ATF is pretty burnt. If the fluid is still looking bad after doing the drain and fill, it could be beneficial to do another one. 2. Clearing the CEL codes, whether it's with an OBD-II scanner or disconnecting the battery, that won't make the problem go away, and it's very possible p0740 could still be a relevant code, but the system hasn't had enough time to trigger it again because the system keeps getting reset. 3. The dual-linear solenoid is related to both p0730 and p0740 and has caused people issues in the past where replacing it was the solution. I would not recommend after-market solenoids as those have given people problems and were a waste of money. If you love this car and plan on keeping it for a while, I would recommend spending the $400 on a new one. Otherwise, you could try going to a junkyard or getting a used one on eBay for $50.
I have really hard shifting on mine but it has over 300,000 miles on it. I am curios if this would cause such issues. no cel code for transmission but fluid looks ok. The car is really well kept up with so I think it was not too abused over its life. Curious on your results thank you
It's been 26000 miles since I did this and my car still runs great! Those tiny filters are a really fine mesh and do their job in catching debris and gunk. I can promise you cleaning these filters can only do good for your car. If they're not dirty, then you've lost nothing. Even if the filters are clean, the solenoid itself can go bad. I've seen some people get a new solenoid and their problems were fixed. So I would recommend doing an electrical ohm test as well. And that's awesome to hear you have over 300k miles, I hope my car can make it that far as well!
Oh ok great! well I opened mine up and they were clean like you would not believe. This car has really been kept up with up until the last few months that the last owner decided not to care for it anymore so it really does not need much. I think that the issue is from him overfilling the transmission a little bit. I have yet to drain the excess but it runs alright for now. Hard shifts especially when the car is cold so I know I have to change to atf md-1 instead of the older z1 they used when the car first came out. 9 quarts for 3-3 process ill keep you updated
Yeah improper ATF level's can cause a transmission to act up. Make sure to check the ATF level properly according to the manual. Basically, bring the car to full operating temperature, park the vehicle on a level surface, turn off the car, and then check the dipstick. Also, idk if "MD-1" was a typo, but use Honda ATF DW-1, which is the new and improved formula that replaces Z1. Might I also recommend changing the exterior ATF filter if you know it hasn't been changed in a while. It's about $39 plus shipping on acurapartsforless.com. Part number for my car is 25450-P7W-003, but double check that it can fit your car.
Incin3ration mine doesn't come with the external filter as mine is the base model. the upgraded models did have one. another thing to note, mine only has one set of solenoid while the others like yours has 2. thanks for the help though it is good information for those who do have those features. and yes thanks for the correct info on the fluid. my dyslexia gets me bad at times though irs kind of funny how the mistakes happen
My local shop told me the 03 3.2cl has no transmission filter is this true? I want to do a whole fluid and filter change and clean these and test the solenoid filters
Hey there, I am considering getting an Acura TL Type S, because this gen is my budget, but my questions are what is the list of things to do to keep this car's tranny running in tip top shape? Also how often do you clean out the Solenoids?
Maintaining the ATF is key. I can't tell you how many people have come to me with their transmission problems only to find out their fluid is brown when it should be red. If you change the transmission fluid with Genuine Honda DW-1 ATF every 15,000 miles and change the exterior ATF Filter every 30,000 miles, this car will treat you good! You should only need to clean the solenoid filters if the CEL comes on since that's what triggers the code. It's not something you should need to do on a routine basis.
Incin3ration Thanks for the reply! As long you take care of it, should last a while. Thankfully people have found dout that the tranny from the 06 and 07 Accord V6 works with the TLs from 2001 and 2003, and no mods either. But yeah like I said I'm highly concidering a TL and this Gen is in my Price range along with its bigger brother the RL.
Awsome videos bro! When is your birthday I’m gonna try to get followers to pitch in to get you some king of camara/phone stand or something to help u out. Hey at least you know if you were to ever to lose a arm “let’s hope not” you would have no issues working on cars. Great video brother.
Thank you! Glad you have been enjoying my videos! lol true! Filming would be a bit more difficult though haha That's very generous of you! My birthday isn't for a while, unfortunately. I have gotten a nice iPhone camera stand since making this video, hoping to get a microphone as my next upgrade!
Wow 246k that’s awesome, keep up the great work! It certainly won’t hurt anything to check and be safe! But unless you’re experiencing problems, you’re unlikely to find any gunk built up in the screen filters. Best preventative maintenance is to do an ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thats one thing i slacked on was tranny fluid changes. Kinda scared to change it now. I may send a sample to blackstone and see if they think its ok to change
Just checking to see if the car is still running right? Also Ive noticed you said you have 202,000 on the original trans? There was a recall on this trans. Did you do the recall on the vehicle? I was lucky and they put in a new one in my 02.
+Michael Hinchey Yes my transmission did have the recall done long ago by the previous owner. I still have the original transmission and engine with now 222,000 miles and everything is running strong!
I actually have not. With this car being my daily driver, it never sits for long periods of time, which is what can cause many problems. It gets driven 300 miles per week, and I make sure to change the oil every 5000 miles with fully synthetic oil and a nice filter, and I haven't had any problems!
Do you need to still remove the battery even if its not in the way? I got a 1st gen crv and well the battery is waaaay back wile the solenoids for me is up front. Close to the radiator. Also what else can I use if I dont have a air gun?
I had slipping and rough shifting in pretty much any gear. Sometimes it would randomly shift gears for no reason. Nothing was working good at the time, but cleaning these little filters fixed everything!
Well I'm responding back to you I tried it I did everything you said far as cleaning and sealing on it and it's still doing the same thing imma try to the B&C one later this week
Does it matter which way the screens tubes go back in? I put the screen tubes at the bottom In the trans maybe that's y it didn't work for me after 2 days But I ordered a new solenoid
My man! Just came from your hood struts replacement vid talking bout your car's paint to exactly the vid I needed to watch!! You sir have a new sub! My TL 01 while on freeway the check engine light came on w/ TCS, opened n closed gas cap hours later turned car on TCS light was off check engine light was still on. OBD it @ AutoZone and P0740 & P1298 came out, print out said "replace transmission shift selenoid(s) & flush transmission fluid" also said "fault in the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit for a predetermined period of time" but the thing is that the transmission doesn't slip or jolt or there's no hard shifting its just normal (still) any thoughts? Car has bout 144k miles and just did a full synthetic oil change 2 weeks ago don't know if that matters ha! Thanks man!
Oh yes! Extra info. While on freeway had to break because i got cut off and water bottle hit the shift stick into neutral I didn't notice so I pressed on the gas and the rpm needle when up high -of course pressed it again till I noticed it was on neutral. About 20 mins later the check engine & TCS light came on, I thought it was a loose gas cap since I had "revved" the engine on neutral and I had just put gas the night before. Just extra info.
The car is able to detect when the screens are just starting to get clogged before it starts noticeably affecting the transmission's performance. Odds are there's a little transmission clutch wear starting to build up in there causing your CEL. So I would go ahead and clean them out! The fact that you changed out the ATF is also good! You don't want that to get too dirty. Also if you're going to be taking your car apart and cleaning out the solenoid screens, might I also recommend replacing the exterior transmission filter since it's also right there!
Incin3ration wait I didn't do an ATF flush it was just an oil change.I will clean the solenoids out but somebody told me though to change the ATF 3 times, any thoughts on this? I've never done an ATF flush since I got it in 08 Also, I drive 100 miles every day x6 @80mph is it still ok to drive it like that? Or am I messing something else up? Thanks man! ..Oh yeah also I took it to the mech ran his obd said it was engine problems needed a new engine told him about just cleaning out the solenoids stood quiet for 3 secs and said he had done that to his Honda and they kept clogging up again and again and again.
Oh sorry, must have read that wrong! Thought you were referring to changing your ATF. Since we are on the topic, if your ATF is really dark, I might recommend doing an ATF drain and fill 2 or 3 times. If you do multiple drain-and-fills, be sure to space them out by maybe at least a week so you're not completely shocking the system with brand new fluid all at once. Also, it's actually very good for your car to get lots of freeway miles like that! I myself drive about 90 miles per day right now all freeway. What's really bad for a car is not driving it enough and driving short city stop-and-go type commutes. The screens won't keep clogging up like he's saying. Even if they do, so what? I'd rather make my transmission last as long as possible and clean them up for free every now and then rather than pay for a new $3000 transmission. Maybe he doesn't change his ATF and filter idk. Sounds like he's trying to make $$ off you. I did have to clean them another time after making this video. Turns out it wasn't clutch wear material but rather a fibrous material coming off the much cheaper Autozone ATF filter I put on my car. Never making that mistake again, OEM all the way.
Incin3ration thanks for all the superb info man much appreciated! Is drain & fill same as flush? And yes I was also thinking of going w AutoZone's filter but from what you said oem it is.
Hey man GREAT video! I have a 2000 acura tl and I have the codes, p0730 and p0706. When I test my Solenoid like you did ( the big one ) I am getting 7.2 to 7.5 on both plugs but your getting 5.5. Is my Solenoid bad? Thank you..
The solenoids should measure between 3-10 ohms. So it passes the ohm test! You could also get some alligator clips and wire, and connect it your cars 12v battery to see if it's clicking. Also, make sure your transmission fluid isn't super dark and dirty, make sure the ATF is at the proper level, and only use Honda DW-1 ATF.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple This is going to sound like a dumb fucking question but If a alternator goes out could that cause coil packs to fuck up? The day I replaced my alternator my car started to misfire and I thought I fixed it but it actually gotten worst. It was NOT misfiring at all before my alternator went out only after
@@williammcarthur6845 is it idling rough or is it misfiring? There is a difference. I know when I disconnect my battery, my car idles rough at really low RPM's, almost like it's bogging down for the first few hundred miles. If you're not getting a CEL, give it a little bit of time and see if it goes away.
@@williammcarthur6845 which codes is it giving you? If it's a particular cylinder, try moving the coils and plugs around and see if the code changes cylinders. It could be a variety of things. One of the new parts could be defective, could be a bad ground, could be a bad battery or the new alternator isn't charging the battery properly, maybe the coil connectors aren't connected properly. Hard to say when I'm not there. Check all your connections, and get a multimeter and check the battery voltages. There are plenty of videos on youtube on how to test your battery and alternator. Or maybe take it to AutoZone where they can test it for free.
Excellent Video! Accurate Information. We bought my daughter a 2003 Acura TL about 5 weeks ago with 121,000 miles. Two weeks later transmission would feel like it would slip slightly when going into 3rd gear. One week after that, weird and troublesome shifting when on the road. Another week, hard shift from park to any gear. Sometimes would not go into reverse. 3 days ago, followed this video which gives excellent instructions. Was a bit dis-heartened when the filters on the dual solenoid set were clean. But! was happy (you know what I mean) to find the lower single solenoid filter completely blocked. Easily cleaned. Checked solenoid operation by applying 12V. Also found transmission filter to be restricted so replaced that. When I first stared the car up and put into gear, same things happened but cleared up immediately. The transmission it really running smooth now (4 days). Very happy and scored some points with my daughter. The transmission fluid is a bit discolored and doesn't look like it has been changed. Will flush in next day or too. I hope as much luck to any of you reading this. Thank you very, very much "Incin3ration", creator of this video!
How long did the vehicle last after? Just bought one but now afraid of getting a problem with it :/
@@jmj_d5207 These times are estimates. About 1 year after the cleaning I had to clean again with same very good results. The car ran great another year but was in an accident that damage the front end and we sold it. Good luck!
@@donestes2116 thanks for replying sounds good
I'm glad to see this. I junked my '99 Accord about 4 years ago because I assumed the tranny was shot. I realize now it was the solenoids. I have watched other videos on the subject. I wont make that mistake again.
Thanks for your comment I was just now devastated when the top dual solenoid was clean as can be I’ll get a flex joint and take off the lower one next!
I would give you a hug, man. I'm so happy after my car works again. Thank you very much for video. My tranmission acted up with D5 light flashed and all other crazy stuffs. Scanner gave me code P1750. I followed your instruction and get it done in 1.5 hrs. Tranmission is quite smooth now. Thanks again.
Awesome to hear! Glad to hear everything is running smoothly again! and thank you!
I have a 2000 Acura TL that started shifting hard at about 173K Miles. After viewing your video a few times I went out to my shop and performed your cleaning process of the screens. I found the exact gunk you did loaded up on the one upper screen and the lower screen as well. I didn't have compressed air but used brake parts cleaner to remove the buildup and what can I say but it worked beautifully!!! I could see where a Transmission shop could have made this a $1500-$2000 repair in a complete rebuild that was not needed. I was a little uneasy about reusing the same gaskets but carefully cleaned them off and using transmission fluid on the lower rubber gasket and working it in on the rubber was able to reassemble with no leaks. On my car I didn't need to remove the air pipe to gain access so it saved me time while doing this process.
My Acura now shifts beautifully again just like it should...
I also did the transmission inline filter at the same time and with an Ohio car the bolts were a little rusty but I sprayed them down with solvent and when the bolts got tight, I stopped, spun them back in, used a small metal brush, tooth brush size (Harbor Freight) to clean the threads and repeated till the bolts came out clean. If I had just tried to crank them out I'm sure they would have broken off making a big problem but taking time to work then out saved the bolts and the threads in the bracket. I used grease on the bolts when re-installing to make sure they would spin out when the filter needs changed again.
Hats off to you and thank you VERY much for taking the time to video the process and share it with other Acura/Honda owners.
Your videos and the quality of the view and explanation to guide others through various repair processes are 2nd to none!
Thanks again and keep up the great works.
Thank you so much! I appreciate it! Glad to hear your car is running beautifully again!
I thought my 2000 TL transmission was toast until I found this video. I am the original owner and the car only has 73K on it. I had the trans serviced at the factory suggested 50K which I have found out from you and now others is not nearly often enough. It had been shifting a little weird for a couple of months and then the shifting went wild. The ATF was full. Between gears it was like a stick shift on steroids. Going any gear, when it came time to upshift, the engine completely disengaged from the transmission. The engine would rev from loosing engagement and then the transmission would SLAM into the next gear. I thought for sure I would have broken motor mounts on top of the transmission issues. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I cleaned the four solenoid filters as you suggested. I also put in a new transmission filter, drained the ATF and refilled. The trans hasn't worked this well in years.
Love hearing stories like this! Glad my video was helpful! Amazing what a couple tiny filters can do!
So I have a 2003 Acura TL 3.2 Type S with 173,100 miles previously owned by one owner and well maintained. So I got a check engine light come up and read the code and it was P0740( Torque converter Solenoid). I was frightened, but I did my research on Google and UA-cam. Upon that, I stumbled across this video and I was like okay I have similar symptoms of transmission slipping a bit and having a hard time picking up on highway speeds. Also turning and hitting the gas at the same time was a problem. So I decided to do the exact same fix myself. The process was very simple but annoying. I recommend the universal ratchet it helps a lot. Oh I forgot to mention if you do plan on doing this do it on a flat surface because as I was removing the solenoid and the transmission fluid leaked a little to the side. In conclusion the top solenoid screens were clean, but the bottom solenoid screen/filter was very clogged with transmission gunk. I didnt have a air Compressor. So I bought a Computer cleaner can of Compressed air at Staples or office depot. So it did the job and cleaned it right up. After cleaning the screens on all the solenoids I put everything back together and now my transmission feels more responsive and no slips and ill update if anything persist. So far it feels good 👍 the process took about an hour.
That is very good to hear this worked for you! You can also use brake cleaner to clean out the screens as well. In some cases, I've heard of people having to clean the filters twice or even three times, but let's hope it's a one-and-done deal! I also know you said the previous owner took good care of the car, but just make sure the transmission fluid isn't brown, black, or giving off a burnt smell, and always use Honda DW-1. Best of luck to you!
@@badluckbryan this is exactly what i’m currently dealing with.
did you buy chance have a leak? i was told at the oils hop i had a leak a small one though. do you think just cleaning the screens/filters helped? and in addition, did you drain ( and/or) flush the trans fluid? i went to autozone got the same code and that was one of the results that was given on the paper. as well as changing shift solenoids.
Yo! Even 6 years later this video is still helping people man! Thank you so much!!!! I just picked up the same car for a cheese burger🍔 😂
You're very welcome! Never thought this video would help so many people when I first made it! Crazy!
I just bought a CLS and have been hearing nothing but horror stories about the transmissions. Your updates in the description will help me sleep well at night and i'll be sure to tackle all these projects asap. Thanks for the informative videos
You're welcome! It has helped countless people! Good luck!
the dealer swapped a rebuilt trany in my 01CLS under warranty then it failed again 13 month later... they asked for $5k, I said: every year?
the junk clutch shavings that plug the solenoid screens, should not be there in the 1st place... meaning cleaning is hardly a patch before auctioning, not a fix !
I encourage anyone who is having transmission problems to do this. I did this with NO problem. never done this an it was VERY simple. save ur self the cash. I used throttle body cleaner, and in a 2000 Acura TL their is no need to remove the air box.
I have a 2003 CL type s I just bought about a month ago, car ran perfect and was owned by older lady. Yesterday car started to do this. Will try this fix today, thank you!
If you are thinking about buying an Acura/Honda with a 3.2L engine from 2000 to 2005, DON'T. YOU WILL HAVE THIS ISSUE
Excellent video! My issue is a little different. I have a 2003 Acura CL that shudders hard from 2nd to 3rd gear with no CEL. So I changed the shift solenoids 28610-ray-003 and 28600-ray-003, and highly recommend it to anyone whose doing this, they are literally right next to these parts. For me changing the shift solenoids didnt quite do the job, all the other shifts were perfect but from 2nd to 3rd still shuddered. So I kept searching and stumbled on this video and decided to try this out myself. It took me about an hour to an hour and a half and I took it out for a test immediately and everything went perfect, however, as i continue to drive it, it does new things. It just locked me in park after I put gas in it, shudder on the way to the local grocery store. Upon leaving I got up to highway speed rather quickly and the CEL started flashing, but as soon as I pulled over it stopped flashing. I will try to clean the bottom filter (which was totally clogged) again tomorrow, but if it doesnt work I don't know what else to try. Incin3ration if you have any ideas I would love to hear them!
2000 Acura TL, 270K MILES. Factory engine and transmission.I was experiencing severe shuttering at 30 mph... and some slippage.Did 3x tyranny flush/fill and changed external filter. Problem persisted.Tcc error codes on scan tool, so I took it to the garage and they said 'minimum 2500 repair.'I watched this video an cleaned the screens. On mine, the screen on the lower solenoid was blocked. Cleaned easily.BONUS.... I found that the chassis ground near the upper solenoid was corroded. I reattached the grounding terminal with solder... then put everything back together.RESULT:My 270,000 mile car that I bought at 197,000 miles runs like brand new again!!!!The grounding terminal fix seemed to clear up an issue that was throwing an evap canister error code that has been coming up for the past 30k miles. I would reset the code and it would just come back ten miles later. It has been 2000 miles since cleaning the solenoids... no evap canister codes and no tcc error codes.CONCLUSION:This little trick saved me at least 2500.00. THANK YOU.
That's awesome to hear! Gives me confidence my car will also make it that far without any issues! I got 3 years of college left and the last thing I need is a transmission replacement.
I'll have to double check that corroded chassis ground thing you mentioned because I currently have the evap canister code. Probably not the cause since the CEL would come on and off every time I filled the tank. But it wouldn't hurt to check.
You might consider installing an externally mounted transmission fluid filter (similar to: amzn.to/2ARMHKC) into your Acura as another form of preventative maintenance.
@@lothianmcadam1 the reason there is no fine filtering involved is because of HIGH FLOW RATES requirements... you don't want to starve the beast !!
johnny Macon my 2002 Honda Accord ex v6 coupe is slipping BADLY out of nowhere going from 1-2 when cold or not drivin much
Ive been having the same problems with my 01 accord, sometimes it wouldn’t even shift while revving. Thank you, you saved me lots of money from buying a new transmission
I'm glad this video was helpful!!!
Yo, you're the man! (self employed mechanic/motorcycles-bikes-cars) I've been working on a customer's 1997 Acura CL 3.0 Base Coupe 123,000 miles w/ several - random transmission problems: AutoZone told the owner that the engine code reader reported a faulty "Main shaft speed sensor" so I replaced that, drained 3 quarts of trans fluid via the drain plug, removed the fill plug put in three quarts of New HONDA SPECIFIC - ATF-DW1 - Which REPLACES HONDA'S REQUIRED ATF-Z1 FLUID. After installing a new drain plug washer/drain plug (w/ 3/8th inch drive extension) three quarts of DW-1 fluid and the new sensor (on the back side of trans/has only two attaching bolts and a tiny/ approx. one inch drive shaft that connects it w/ the trans.). After completing that work & no warning lights illuminated, I test drive the car and it slips horribly in all forward gears or won't move forward at all....I saw your video, cleaned the screens and IT WORKS PERFECTLY NOW! You saved my butt and made me a few more bucks, thank you-Very cool.
It amazing how something so simple can cause such a big problem! Not to mention it's cost free to do and anybody can do it! I'm glad this helped you!
Thank you so much took me about two hours all I had to remove was the battery, battery tray and battery tray support and those clips shown in the video, and of course the solenoid top itself. Problem with my 2002 Acura Tl Type S with 93K miles. I had hard shifting, not going into gear, super hard shift going into reverse. Engine codes: P0700(A/T System Malfunction) Transmission Codes: P1750(Clutch Pressure Failure), P1751(2-3 Shift Malfunction). I cleaned the screens with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and then blew with compressed air. I also changed out the transmission fluid and filter.
Did that fix it?
Thank you, Thank you. Followed your instructions and also changed the tranny filter and fluid. My wife and son considered my efforts a waste of time. They were talking a repair worth more than the value of the car. I drove 10 miles immediately after cleaning and had absolutely no issues, which would normally occur at about 3 miles or when fully warmed. 105,000 miles at time of cleaning/repair - maybe we will make 200,000.
This car still looks great with little rust and a few cracks in the leather. I just replaced fog lights 6 months ago and was ready to pull tires tires, lights and all good components to sell used. BTW, fog lights on the web from $150 - $190 for the pair for DIY. Quote from my Acura dealer $480 per pair with install extra.
Hows the car holding up? and yeah the fog assemblies are a little pricey, but as nice as they are, it's not too surprising. When I got my car, it had a hole in the fog light and I replaced it for $60 from amazon! less than 2 years later, same side got another hole in it, but I caught it pretty quickly. I made a custom replacement lens out of LEXAN Polycarbonate. It's just as clear as glass, but also 250 times stronger. Sealed the edges with some weatherproof silicone and it has held up perfectly!
I am very impressed by your diagnosis and willingness to tackle a project like this without formal training. Nice work. Btw clean your area surrounding valve bodies, etc before removal so contaminant aren't introduced. Thumbs up
Good tip!! and thank you!!
Thank you so much for this video and the transmission filter/oil change, my 01 cl type s was having extremely hard shifting , sometimes 3rd wouldn't go into gear and sometimes 1st would lag into 2nd and be a very rough shift. Reverse would be a late and rough shift and so on and so on( at the same time learning how to drive without beating down my trans.) .still going to do a 2nd drain n fill because the bolt was literally covered with sludge and metal😭 the screen filters were so gunked up it took a while to clean them out and had to use a lil tissue and a coffee straw to remove some of the crusted gunk. SO AGAIN in 2020 🙏thank you so much for saving my transmission!
That’s awesome to hear it worked for you! I’m glad my videos could be helpful! Keep up with those transmission fluid changes and these cars will last a very long time!
No codes but had trouble shifting into third sometimes (slip, hard shift), and all gears had a similar but less prominent problem. Center filter was pretty clogged on the top solenoid screen set, and the bottom one was also pretty clogged. Cleaned them out with a q tip and mineral spirits (no air gun...) and transmission runs like new! Thank you so much for this video!!!
Awesome!! Glad to hear it worked!!
Check transmission fluid it meant have fluid
Another amazing video... I'll be doing this as well soon. My wife's '03 TL (which we love) has been starting out rough... just not catching gears. Will report back.
I have to say you have an amazing mind... the way you hold the camera with one hand and still show these things is amazing. Can't thank you enough!
Thank you very much and you're welcome! I certainly try my hardest to get the best picture while actively working! I have good hopes this will work for your car! It has already helped thousands of people!
this channel is so awesome man. literally not able to find any helpful maintenance videos on the ua5
Thanks again!!!
I dumped my 1999 Accord LX because I thought my tranny was done. Recalling how it behaved there's no doubt in my mind that a solenoid cleaning would've been the fix. Too late for me but glad so many people have been helped by your video.
Yah it’s unfortunate how many people spent thousands rebuilding or replacing the transmission, or even buying a new vehicle over an issue as simple as this. That’s why it was called the “code of death” for a long time. Not anymore though! Hope your new car serves you well, thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple That was about 6 years ago. I bought another 6th gen Accord, a 2000 LX with about 48,000 miles. I drove about 2 years then my mom needed a car so I sent it to her and she has it up to about 75,000 miles and never failed her. She loves it. I drive an '02 Accord I found with about 35,000 miles shortly after sending my mom the Accord. I believe in the cars and keep tranny fluid clean on both.
Okay so after watching your video, I checked out my '02 Acura TL type S and it had the exact same issue. Great Vid!
Thanks man! I'm glad this helped you!
Awesome video, I have a 2005 TL and one about a year ago I got that P0740 error code,,, it went away by itself, but I knew something was wrong and feared transmission problems, now I know what to do. Knowledge is power, thank you
It's a shame it took the community so long to find this solution, but I'm glad my video sparked the discovery of it! Glad my video was helpful!
I have 2006 TL, are the part numbers the same?
Really good info. My 1999 Acura CL was not shifting correctly. I followed this video and found the filters completely cogged. I cleaned them out and now it shifts fine and as expected. Thanks!
Just did this job today went famously thanks to this video still trying to leave me stranded but shifts much better pressure switches are next
Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching and glad my videos were helpful!
I watched your video and worked on my 2003 Acura TL-S; perfect instructions; hope it solve the problem. Many thanks. sk
+Sidney Kahn Did it help with the problem?
+Joseph C it does; the code p1750 went away, but I plan to replace the solenoid later; got good price on t; thanks
My wife has the same car. After following video, warning lights out and shifts as smooth as new. Hope it holds.
Glad to hear this worked for all of you!
Thanks so much for making the video! I've got an Acura TL 2002- getting the P0740 code for Torque Converter Clutch Circuit and several sites recommended replacing the $250+ Solenoid but first I'll try cleaning them as you most excellently demonstrated!! Thanks again!
You are very welcome! Yes cleaning these tiny filters can definitely make a worlds difference! Otherwise, replacing the solenoid is still a lot better than spending thousands on a new/rebuilt transmission. Good luck!
This fix works great, we have 2001 Honda Accord EX V6. Part Numbers and suggested bolt replacement.
I suggest replacing at least the two rear bolts with Allen Head Bolts for replacement ease., the Bolts # 81673 are Metric 6mm X 25mm and Flats#87926 6mm metric flat
3 "O-Rings", Honda OEM Part# 91301PC9003 O-Ring 7.7 X 2.3 "Google it"
The Gasket OEM Part# is 28252-PAX--000.
The Complete Solenoid Assembly OEM Part # 28250-P6H-024.
What I recommend to everyone who gonna do this job, buy new solenoid gaskets and small rubber seals.
These bits are cheap and worth to replace especially if car is older than 10 years
Happen to have a link to buy them ?
Just in case this doesn't work for anyone.. You may consider doing a AV6 swap .. You can goggle it ,but I was short on luck. my transmission shop was/is willing to do it but told me the donor transmission needs to be 20,000 - 45,000 miles. He said with all the V6 trannys up to 2010 are vunerable to slipping after 50-60,000 miles... The issue is still there. Some who did the swap are kinda still riding on luck. But it still worth a shot... I'm gonna still try but I can't find anything under 50,000 anywhere.. But I think it's due to them still being used and possibly rebuilt. But this video is working for me so far after 1 drain & fill .
I have a 2000 acura tl i just replaced the trans with a used one.it had a similar problem shifting into 3rd gear.i watch your video last night today i did exactly like you did in you video.the bottom selonoid filter was completly clogged with friction material cleaned with throddle body cleaner.test drove it a few miles and it seems to be much smoother ride.great video very informative.thankyou for your help i will subscribe to your channel.thanx again.
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear this helped you! Thanks for the sub!!
Most common mistakes made by mechanic technicians is that they mis diagnose the problem and rebuild the whole unit; when it could be a small part that's is wrong! Heat is the enemy of transmissions, most of the time on high mile vehicles it's the shift solenoids that get dirty and cause shifting problems. not all trans are the same in design just like not all transmission builders are any good especially when they rather rebuild than diagnose a common sense problem, nice vid...
Thanks! Yes heat is definitely a problem, which is exactly why this vehicle had a transmission recall to get an oil jet installed. Initially before I figured this solenoid solution out, nobody wanted to diagnose my transmission and just straight up quoted me thousands of dollars to do a rebuild. I hope more people can learn about this relatively simple fix to avoid wasting thousands.
Incin3ration so this fixed your transmission?? All that material in the screen is clutch material so it’s just a matter of time before the problem returns
@@wendellgreenidge3362 did you not read it said about 100k plus miles later that the car is still running fine?
I have seen very early signs of shifting trouble, I'm gonna do this next weekend and see if I see a difference! I too have an 02 TL-S, I will post results
So what are the results??
Saw this video November 2019 my 02 TL was doing the same think slipping and coming out of gear. So I gave it a shot both top and bottom were clogged. Cleaned them both up and now runs great!! Thank for the video much Love
That's awesome! Glad this video helped!
Thank you sir! Video helped heal my TLS 2003. P0740
Photos from the central filter solenoid control a, b, c: (28250-P6H-024, 28250-P7W-003) 100% true.
Mileage 106K
Ukraine, Kiev
Alexander
You're very welcome!! I'm glad it worked!!
lucky you👍🏻
I just did this on my 2001 Acura TL with 231k miles on original trans. Was shifting weird from 2nd to 3rd. Sometimes hard, sometimes missed, sometimes slipping and surging. No light or code. Screens were clogged exactly like in the video. Also did the first drain and fill of the 3x3qt with Maxlife. Two test drives and it seems to have fixed it. Thanks for the video!!!
You're welcome! Awesome to hear it worked for you!
My co-worker has a car with transmission issues on their TL and the repair shop was claiming $2500 to fix (about to call and confirm that it really is the solenoids since her son took it in). Even if we were to replace just the solenoids, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much (found them on RockAuto for ~$150 a piece). Heck, they bought the car for only $3200. I'm down to saving them some $ even if I spend an hour or two to do it myself.
Yah it is a relatively easy job to do. Just a lot of parts to remove first. When I first initially called a transmission shop, they weren't even willing to try and find a solution, but rather just quoted me about $2500 to rebuild the transmission. I said screw that and ended up discovering and fixing the issue myself. I can't guarantee you this will fix your problems, but it has helped most people. Good luck!
Thank you for these videos! Although we dont have the same engine we do have the same transmission (2003 honda pilot here that had the oil jet recall over the fill bolt as well...did not know why I couldnt find the fill bolt until I watched your other video! 😂 I filled through the dipstick tube like you do) so your help on these things is very much appreciated! 👍👍😊😊
You're very welcome! Glad my videos could help!
I have 2002 Acura mdx i will try this method, my mdx upshifts pretty bad only sometimes but sometimes it changes pretty good I have taken it to many mechanics there recommendation was to rebuild transmission or replace it with new one but i will let you guys know after trying this I honestly am glad we have ones like you that tries to help others thank you very much for you video.
Thank you very much! I do what I can! And I had the same symptoms at first, where sometimes it would shift good and sometimes bad. But with time it progressed and got worse. Good luck! I hope it works!
Before taking all that crap out of your engine bay try 10 oz of Sea Foam Trans Tune down the dip stick tube. Drive it for 300 miles then change the Transmission fluid. It worked for me. The code cleared and it's shifting smooth. Sea foam desolved all the sludge that was built-up in the sensor screens and other parts of the transmission.
hmmm interesting! I'll look into it, thanks!
Man I love your video! You're saving lots of people tons of money and headaches. Just a suggestion it might be worthwhile to do a video on how to safely put your car on Jack stands. Everybody knows about the Jack points on the sides of the car but not many people know how To safely put the car on stance To safely put the car on stands. Also maybe A good idea to show how people how to change the PCV valve. Mine went bad the other day and I know many people don't even bother to change it but it controls a lot of different things. Thanks for all the good work!
Thanks for the support and videos suggestions! I can certainly give these a go!
Hey Dave Rajkumar, I made a PCV Valve video that I hope you’ll enjoy! Thanks for the video request! I’ll look into making a video on how to place a vehicle on jack stands as well
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks man another great video. Everyone appreciates the help Keep up the good work
I am super excited to try this as I have 2000 Acura TL 2.3 with 223,000 miles on it and the check engine light and the PO740 code was thrown at me...every mechanic I called in the Bay Area said "Junk the car the transmission is shot" - basically I think all mechanics would much rather work on putting in a new transmission then trying to fix the problem because they know you will be desperate to fix it so may as well get a new transmission. The mechanics are well compensated for their time and if it doesn't work then they can try again at your wallet's expense. I will follow up with everyone in 2 weeks....p.s. I am no mechanic but this will be a cool challenge and if that code is gone and the CEL is gone too!!! It will be so worth it! Thanks for the video! Another guy posted a video last week who just replaced the 1st solenoid (lies flat) and said that also cleared his problem - - probably because the filters were dirty on his old one...
yah I had a similar experience. The mechanics won't even bother diagnosing the transmission to find a possible solution. They just want $$$. I'm looking forward to hearing your results!
Update: Bought the solenoid part. Drained Transmission Fluid (not much there and it was clay brown-black color). Replaced with Acura Transmission oil (3 quarts) and drove the car about 65 miles and all the monitors reset. BUT then I drove the car on the highway at around the 75th mile from disconnecting the battery (to take out the check engine light) and the Check Engine Light came back on with the TCS - same code. So my next step is to chance the solenoid...Hopefully it will take care of the problem. The car changes gears great...but I noticed when driven for about 40 minutes - after I kill the engine and restart it chokes - meaning it's like turning the key when the engine is on - you get that same sound on turning on the engine after it's been running, turning the engine off and then returning it back on - but there is ample coolant - so I guess I'll just have to see what happens when I install the solenoid in the next week...and report back WISH ME SOME GREAT LUCK y'all (lol).
Update: i just installed the solenoid today! Thanks 4 the video - it was super helpful! Okay so no I need to drive the car for about 50 - 65 miles. The car shifted fine before but after all the monitors clear, the CE Light goes off with the TCS...I drove the car today to clear the monitors (prior to installing just to see if I can get it smogged and then drop in a new solenoid - but the monitors cleared while I was on the highway and the CE Light came back on with the TCS...which prompted me to install a new solenoid). Also - I checked the filters and they were clean...could see no build up so either this will work or it wont...Will follow up with results.
Man I hope the new solenoid fixes your transmission problems!
Update: Well....the results are in - NEGATIVE! I installed the new solenoid and actually threw in new transmission oil and same behavior - after all the monitors clear it throws a Check Engine Light on top of the TCS or TCL light coming on. It seems to me that it's more of an electrical wiring problem because the car shifts fine. It has 223,000 miles on it and the code says that the clutch is open - which is why it makes me think there is an electrical problem that engages once the Cat monitor is cleared from Incomplete to OK status - that's the time it comes on....Oh well - time to figure out Plan B. I want to say that it's worth a try to replace the solenoid - I bought a new one so I know it works...AND I cleaned the screens which were already clean (3 total) and looked through another cylinder fitting that had no screen on either side. BUT - It is an interesting experiment and the power of the internet and everyone sharing their experiences HELPS EACH OTHER vs being charged $400+ only to be told the problem is still there - lol - Plus I got to learn how to do this myself! That was fun! Cheers!
It would have been helpful to know you can accidentally blow the screen out of the tube and lose it. I lost two. Guess that's why it's better to clean with a spray than compressed air.
Robert Hosking oh no 🤦🏻♂️ that Sucks!
Yep I wish he showed how he cleans them because I doubt he just put in the tube and sprayed with full force
Makes sense! I will do this tomorrow i will keep this in mind!!
What spray did you use to remove the gunk?
Running an 2001 Acura Cl with 254,000 miles on original transmission and engine. Will be attempting this project tomorrow. The car seems to not want to change out of higher gears but there is no real jerking, no banging, none of the classic symptoms I have have with other transmissions that went out on me.
Thanks for the info I got a P0740 code at autozone today after the engine light and TCS light came on at the same time. TCS turned off after cranking engine again,
I will post tomorrow when done and let you know about the results.
Good luck! Look forward to hearing your results!
Incin3ration well the resistance on the two units were 5.2 just like yours. The screens were medium biuld up but the real problem is the trsnsmission fuild is so old it looks grey. i did not notice any metal flakes just grey, burnt smelling transmission fluid. will be doing the 3 quart drain method commonly seen on other youtube channels. Currently the engine light is off but i assume this is normal and the P0740 code will trigger again ain the near future. Thanks for the help this video is extrrmely helpful at getting me on the right track. As of rigt now the car seems to operate normally. Fingers crossed I'll keep ya posted!
I'm glad it helped! And that little bit of gunk is all it takes to cause a problem. Assuming your transmission is just like mine, make sure you get Honda DW-1 ATF and none of that aftermarket junk. DW-1 is the new and improved formula that replaces Honda's old Z1 ATF. If your ATF really is as black and burnt smelling as you say it is, I might even recommend doing the first drain and fill, driving your car for a week, and then doing another drain and fill the next weekend. The fluid should be red. You can get a case of 12 quarts on eBay for $89 which will last you a good 3-4 years. Obviously with these transmissions being notorious for failing, you can't trust what the manual says in this case. I would recommend making it a habit to do a single drain and fill once every 15,000 miles after this. If your car had the transmission recall done, it might be easier to put the ATF in through the ATF dipstick hole.
Incin3ration looking to purchase the z1 atf and then do the partial transmission drain method. Car is still operating well and no check engine light.
Excellent! I'm glad your car is working smoothly again!
I use seafoam trans tune and did the same work . Its amazing everybody thinks that the transmision are bad or something like that and everything is clogged like those solenoid screens
Exactly! Wish more people knew about this simple solution!
Great! I am going to do the solenoid screen filters this weekend. Thanks!
my 02 Acura cl died on me when it hit 130k - i replaced it with 06 odyssey transmission - direct fit. no issues ever since. For cheap replacement solenoids - get it from local junk yard - check their odyssey parts
i jist read about those 98 to 2003 hondas and acuras. one person changed there trans five times. sucks becaise my buddy wants to sell me.an 01
Thanks so much. It was well worth everyone's time. 👌
Congrats on putting out a useful video. Most appreciate it man!!!! Great job on details as well!
My 03 TL Type S coded the p0740 several months ago. Since then, it won't shift from first gear. I try to crank it and idle it around the parking lot so that it doesn't just sit there and fall into further disrepair. It only has 298k miles on it.
I'm going to try this. Between all of the videos on here, the Hayes manual, and the official Honda/Acura repair manual pdf, I hope I can get it back on the road. It's surprising how much more difficult it is to work on a car in an apartment parking lot than it is in a yard or a driveway.
Yah working on a car at home is way more convenient! This repair has helped a lot of people! But if this doesn't work, people have also told me replacing the solenoid itself has fixed their vehicles as well. Good luck!
Took screws off now it’s like stuck on there yours came out so easy
I suppose if it’s the first time being removed in 20 years, it’s possible. Never heard anyone tell me it was stuck in there after removing the 6 screws. I may have also prepared the solenoid before filming it, so it might just take a little wiggling and muscle.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple muscle work dad took it off I’m scared to break anything like I said had trouble shifting into 4th haven’t hit 5th yet or changed the fluid just cleaned both of them like in your video now putting everything back finally hope it’s fixed if not at least the same don’t want to do damage to it and make it worse then it already is the screens weren’t that dirty even the bottom kind of worried
Big Germ it surprisingly doesn’t take much junk to restrict the flow in the solenoids and cause CEL and problems. I would definitely change the fluid next and soon! Lemme know if cleaning the solenoids worked, good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple about to test drive again for 2nd time since I bought it after if it didn’t do nun I’m gonna do the drain 3 qt refill I already have 1 qt gonna go back to the dealer tmro and get the other 2
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple can it being overfilled with transmission fluid also be a problem ? The car drove exactly the same smh didn’t want to shift 4th floored it
I tried it, it worked! Thanks A LOT!
+pl cote Awesome bro! Glad everything worked out for you! Spread the word!
Great 👍 content, just did it . Car is working in good shape , thank you 🙏
Awesome to hear this worked!!! Thanks for watching!
Спасибо, сэр! Видео помог исцелить мои TLS 2003. P0740 Фотографии от центрального фильтра управления соленоида, б, в: (28250-P6H-024, 28250-P7W-003) 100% правда. Пробег 106K Украины, Киев Александр
Hi Incin, totally awesome instructional video. Really well though out and I appreciate including initial pics and identifying a 2nd solenoid area towards the bottom. I have a 6th generation (98-02) Accord v6 and looking at my engine compartment it appears my transmission is set up the same. Would you be able to concur? I have 200k and started having intermittent shifting delays so I replaced my water pump and timing belt. Of course that was not the problem. I did a transmission fluid change but still have issue. When idling with brake on and shift through gears there is a definite jolt going from D4 to 2. Going back up seems the same when moving from 1 to 2. Sometimes there is a delay into second when starting from stoplight. However I also notice that if I'm heavy on the pedal shifting sometimes seems smoother. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Again thank you, Michael
There was NOTHING decent about that air filter 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great video easy to follow along. Thanks for sharing.
Yah decent probably wasn’t the best word haha glad it was helpful otherwise, thanks for watching!
Does only the lower Solenoid, the one that’s held by 4 bolts, have a gasket? Or does the Top Solenoid have one, too? Thank you for making this Video! I now have the confidence needed to do the work myself on my ‘02 Acura TL. Your instructional videos save me Money 💵
Yeah the bottom one has an all in one gasket and filter. The top solenoid has three o-ring gaskets that go around the tube filters. I'm glad my video was helpful! Good luck to you!
great detailed video, ima try this and hope my tl runs again
I've got high hopes!
last question, these are your shift solenoids correct? the autozone paper you receive after getting a code tells me P0740 and suggested job is to replace shift solenoids , and drain(and/or) flush transmission fluid. did you clean the screens so you would have to replace any parts?
@@414NashBaby these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody.
Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.
I did this procedure on a 2001 Honda Odyssey last weekend. Thanks for the helpful video.
+ppett1 Did it help with the problem?
yes
What was your odyssey doing? We were cruising down the highway and it just stopped shifting and wouldn't even rev up. We thought the whole transmission was messed up so we towed it back to the house and then a few weeks later, my husband started it up and was able to drive it around the block. Were thinking that this screen is the problem
Excellent video
Thank you!!
Thank you very nice video! When driving cold by transmission shift perfectly isn’t till it starts heating up and on the way home in stop and go traffic, the transmission starts slipping and acting up in third gear downshifting unexpectedly and the other day when I came home it wouldn’t even get out of second gear! I had to take side streets home… I am hoping and praying that this will fix it? what do you think? It’s about three or $4000 for a new transmission.
I have had these symptoms and heard of other people experiencing similar things where the transmission works on a cold start and starts acting up once warm. Definitely give this a try, it’s free to do and can only do good! Otherwise, make sure your ATF is clean and not over/underfilled
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I have this argument with mechanics all the time… But you check the transmission fluid after the car has warmed up completely and then you shut the motor off and then you check it within 30 seconds is that correct? Thank you very much for replying!
@@weebleslove469 yah, bring the car up to full operating temperature, park the car on a level surface, shut the engine off, and check the dipstick. I suppose it could be different for other vehicles, but it should tell you in your specific cars owners manual.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you very much 😁
Damn lol i was thinking because its honda it would be easy…not saying it isnt but got to put some work and have patience. Thank you for this video!!
It's not the worst job in the world. You'll do great. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplemost definitely not but thanks to you it is now alot easier! I have 189k og miles. After i do this i will come back and let it be known if jt helped
Good stuff brother. Thanks for sharing and being a great human
You’re welcome! I’m glad this video has been able to help so many people!
Hi, i just bought a 02 TL type S and im having the same issues. Hopefully i get the same result. Wish me luck.
Good luck! It has worked for tons of people!
Great job and thank you for sharing your problem and solution
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I couldn’t get the Stubborn Bolts loose when I was trying to remove the Battery Plate. They were on Very Tight! Did you have trouble removing those Bolts holding the Battery Plate?
Yeah some of them can be stubborn, especially if they've never been removed before in the last 16 years. I use my biggest ratchet and longest extension to remove them. Maybe try an impact drill?
Incin3ration okay I will try a longer extension on my Ratchet. Hopefully that and some WD-40 on the bolts will loosen them up.
Thank you! This made q huge difference on my 2001 acura tl
Awesome! I'm glad it worked!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks, seriously. I any got the first three cleaned before I ran out of sunlight, and couldn't find the last one but I'm gonna look into it more next day off. Just cleaning these three made a huge difference and took the check engine light off
You da man! Cleaning these two spots fixed my issue. At least for the rest drive last night. Time will tell. Thank you!
For everyone else. I have a 2003 Honda Pilot. Code P0730. Hard and random down shifting from 4 to 2nd/3rd. Hard up/down shifting, randomly. I thought the trans was going to fall out. It would slip at times too, to the point of not moving. It was very unsafe.
I cleaned these two spot and it’s running perfect now.
Lower screen was 100% clogged. Upper/middle was 90% clogged.
Crazy that a filter the size of a pencil eraser can cause an entire transmission to fail! Glad this video helped you!!
Incin3ration well, it didn’t work for me. Back to the drawing board for me.
@@motofun72 is your transmission fluid clean? and is it at the proper level? Low transmission fluid or simply changing the fluid has worked wonders for people that I've heard from. Also when was the last time your exterior transmission filter was changed? All very important things to consider, especially since your screen filters are getting clogged. Also, it is possible the solenoids themselves are bad. Maybe look into that as well to see if they're functioning properly and whether or not they need to be replaced.
Incin3ration I changed my oil last week and it’s at the proper level. I’m going to change my trans oil again this coming up week along with the external filter and 3rd/4th pressure switches (bought from Amazon). If that doesn’t fix it, then I will test A/B solenoids (those are harder to get to, so I need more time).
My fingers are crossed.
@@motofun72 Let me know how everything ends up working out for you! I'm curious to know if changing the pressure switches/solenoids works for you!
Hey man, great info. Hopefully this will fix my shift delays from 1-2 and 3-4 and my CEL (pressure solenoid failure), without having to totally replace the solenoids, on my ‘01 CL-S. Quick question: did you change the fluid before or after doing this? Trying to decide if it would be better to change the fluid before hand, to avoid having to clean gunk out of those screens again if I change fluid after...will be doing the 3x drain and fill and changing the external spin-on filter as well
If it's an option, yes, I would recommend changing the transmission fluid and spin-on filter first and cleaning the solenoid screen filters after. Of course, it requires the same disassembly to do both jobs, so you can get both done at the same time! Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good you good teacher 👌👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you so much!
Did you reuse the face to face gaskets as well as the O ring type gasket. These gaskets are no available at the auto parts store. Great video
Yes, I reused the Solenoid Gaskets and the O-ring gaskets. If you lost one or need a new one, they are available on any Acura parts website under the section "AT Sensor - Solenoid."
Hi, thanks for the video . I did this on my accord 2003 V6, but it keeps getting clogged. Any Advice??
How clean is the transmission fluid? The stuff clogging up the screen filters is clutch material. I would recommend doing a transmission drain and fill. Also when was the last time your exterior transmission filter was changed? Doing that would definitely clean up the fluid a lot as well. Just make sure to use Honda DW-1 and an OEM Honda filter. The filter is a bit expensive but worth it. Check out my video on how to do it!
ua-cam.com/video/SjYVD2WCrCM/v-deo.html
Excellent information sir 👍
I just bought a used jdm trans for $450, the original one i had in my 03 tl-s torque converter crapped, I’ve since swapped them and ran it for a week and same codes came up p0730-p0740, I’ll clean the solenoids both top and bottom in a few days and see it thats causing my rough shifts between 2-3rd gear.
Did you fix it?
Fantastic video! You helped and saved me time and money!
You're very welcome! Very glad my video was helpful!
170k miles was running perfect then random p0704 code which i cleared then noticed slipping couple days later and got to the point today where car just wouldn’t move when in gear just rev or take a long time to shift to the gear and be able to move. Did a 3.5 quart drain and fill with new filter and had grayish peanut butter texture on the drain bolt magnet with pretty burnt fluid but definitely not the worst .checked both solenoids today and to my surprise they were both spotless should i try changing the whole solenoids themselves or lost cause ??? also got code p0703 today the 0704 hasn’t came back and p0703 cleared when i disconnected battery to perform this but still slips on heavy throttle and im guessing it’ll still do the standstill/harsh random downshifts . any info or lost cause???
I have a couple comments to make:
1. You said your ATF is pretty burnt. If the fluid is still looking bad after doing the drain and fill, it could be beneficial to do another one.
2. Clearing the CEL codes, whether it's with an OBD-II scanner or disconnecting the battery, that won't make the problem go away, and it's very possible p0740 could still be a relevant code, but the system hasn't had enough time to trigger it again because the system keeps getting reset.
3. The dual-linear solenoid is related to both p0730 and p0740 and has caused people issues in the past where replacing it was the solution. I would not recommend after-market solenoids as those have given people problems and were a waste of money. If you love this car and plan on keeping it for a while, I would recommend spending the $400 on a new one. Otherwise, you could try going to a junkyard or getting a used one on eBay for $50.
Do 2009 Acura tl sh-awd have this part that’s outside the transmission ?? Also 300 rpm surges. Please help
I have really hard shifting on mine but it has over 300,000 miles on it. I am curios if this would cause such issues. no cel code for transmission but fluid looks ok. The car is really well kept up with so I think it was not too abused over its life. Curious on your results thank you
It's been 26000 miles since I did this and my car still runs great! Those tiny filters are a really fine mesh and do their job in catching debris and gunk. I can promise you cleaning these filters can only do good for your car. If they're not dirty, then you've lost nothing. Even if the filters are clean, the solenoid itself can go bad. I've seen some people get a new solenoid and their problems were fixed. So I would recommend doing an electrical ohm test as well. And that's awesome to hear you have over 300k miles, I hope my car can make it that far as well!
Oh ok great! well I opened mine up and they were clean like you would not believe. This car has really been kept up with up until the last few months that the last owner decided not to care for it anymore so it really does not need much. I think that the issue is from him overfilling the transmission a little bit. I have yet to drain the excess but it runs alright for now. Hard shifts especially when the car is cold so I know I have to change to atf md-1 instead of the older z1 they used when the car first came out. 9 quarts for 3-3 process ill keep you updated
Yeah improper ATF level's can cause a transmission to act up. Make sure to check the ATF level properly according to the manual. Basically, bring the car to full operating temperature, park the vehicle on a level surface, turn off the car, and then check the dipstick. Also, idk if "MD-1" was a typo, but use Honda ATF DW-1, which is the new and improved formula that replaces Z1. Might I also recommend changing the exterior ATF filter if you know it hasn't been changed in a while. It's about $39 plus shipping on acurapartsforless.com. Part number for my car is 25450-P7W-003, but double check that it can fit your car.
Incin3ration mine doesn't come with the external filter as mine is the base model. the upgraded models did have one. another thing to note, mine only has one set of solenoid while the others like yours has 2. thanks for the help though it is good information for those who do have those features. and yes thanks for the correct info on the fluid. my dyslexia gets me bad at times though irs kind of funny how the mistakes happen
My local shop told me the 03 3.2cl has no transmission filter is this true? I want to do a whole fluid and filter change and clean these and test the solenoid filters
Hey there, I am considering getting an Acura TL Type S, because this gen is my budget, but my questions are what is the list of things to do to keep this car's tranny running in tip top shape?
Also how often do you clean out the Solenoids?
Maintaining the ATF is key. I can't tell you how many people have come to me with their transmission problems only to find out their fluid is brown when it should be red. If you change the transmission fluid with Genuine Honda DW-1 ATF every 15,000 miles and change the exterior ATF Filter every 30,000 miles, this car will treat you good! You should only need to clean the solenoid filters if the CEL comes on since that's what triggers the code. It's not something you should need to do on a routine basis.
Incin3ration Thanks for the reply! As long you take care of it, should last a while. Thankfully people have found dout that the tranny from the 06 and 07 Accord V6 works with the TLs from 2001 and 2003, and no mods either. But yeah like I said I'm highly concidering a TL and this Gen is in my Price range along with its bigger brother the RL.
Awsome videos bro! When is your birthday I’m gonna try to get followers to pitch in to get you some king of camara/phone stand or something to help u out. Hey at least you know if you were to ever to lose a arm “let’s hope not” you would have no issues working on cars. Great video brother.
Thank you! Glad you have been enjoying my videos!
lol true! Filming would be a bit more difficult though haha That's very generous of you! My birthday isn't for a while, unfortunately. I have gotten a nice iPhone camera stand since making this video, hoping to get a microphone as my next upgrade!
Best video much thanx
huge grateful for this. thank you so much.
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped!
Is this good to do for preventative maintenance? I have 07 Type S , 246k miles. No tranny issues but i want it to last.
Wow 246k that’s awesome, keep up the great work! It certainly won’t hurt anything to check and be safe! But unless you’re experiencing problems, you’re unlikely to find any gunk built up in the screen filters. Best preventative maintenance is to do an ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thats one thing i slacked on was tranny fluid changes. Kinda scared to change it now. I may send a sample to blackstone and see if they think its ok to change
Do I need to spray any penetrating fluid on the bolts before trying to remove them?
I didn't, they came off relatively easy. Once you crack them loose, you can loosen the bolts the rest of the way off by hand.
Thanks!
You're very welcome! And Thank you so much!!
u just saved me $2000 !! Thank youuuuu
+Christian Serrano I'm so glad it worked for you!! You're welcome!!
Which way are the screens supposed to face? I’m having second thoughts now.
The screen indentations should be facing downward toward the solenoid!
Just checking to see if the car is still running right? Also Ive noticed you said you have 202,000 on the original trans? There was a recall on this trans. Did you do the recall on the vehicle? I was lucky and they put in a new one in my 02.
+Michael Hinchey Yes my transmission did have the recall done long ago by the previous owner. I still have the original transmission and engine with now 222,000 miles and everything is running strong!
+Incin3ration ok so they just added the pump to make it better.
+Incin3ration have you ever seafoamed that bad boy?
I actually have not. With this car being my daily driver, it never sits for long periods of time, which is what can cause many problems. It gets driven 300 miles per week, and I make sure to change the oil every 5000 miles with fully synthetic oil and a nice filter, and I haven't had any problems!
Should both solenoids need new gaskets after removing?? Thanks
I haven't replaced any of the gaskets or seals and everything still works perfectly!
Hey man what about the solenoid with the 2 connectors and 2 10mm bolts I believe??
May 2019. Thanks for the video
Do you need to still remove the battery even if its not in the way? I got a 1st gen crv and well the battery is waaaay back wile the solenoids for me is up front. Close to the radiator.
Also what else can I use if I dont have a air gun?
If it’s not in the way you don’t have to remove it. And you can use brake cleaner if you don’t have an air gun. Thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple last question, can I leave the brake cleacker or should I try to get ot off hefore reinstalling?
@@trentmorrison6074 I recommend wiping it with a paper towel and letting it air dry for a minute before reinstalling
Great video, did you have issues with it slipping or rough shifting 1st and 2nd gear?
I had slipping and rough shifting in pretty much any gear. Sometimes it would randomly shift gears for no reason. Nothing was working good at the time, but cleaning these little filters fixed everything!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’m going to give it a try on my 04 Tl won’t hurt to try. Thanks so much!
@@alexquezada510 absolutely, that’s the nice thing about this fix, it’s free to do and can’t hurt anything. Good luck!
Well I'm responding back to you I tried it I did everything you said far as cleaning and sealing on it and it's still doing the same thing imma try to the B&C one later this week
God bless you
you just save me 2800 $
Roman Tsekh I'm so glad it worked! I wish more people could know about this!
in 2023, I thank you for this video
You’re very welcome! Glad to see this video is still helping people 7 years after making it
Great video.... do you think it will work for me? I have 2001 Acura cl type s... that hard shifts after about 2 hours and my D5 blinks
Yup! Our cars have the same transmission, so you should expect this process to be the same as shown in this video. Good luck!
Does it matter which way the screens tubes go back in?
I put the screen tubes at the bottom
In the trans maybe that's y it didn't work for me after 2 days
But I ordered a new solenoid
My man! Just came from your hood struts replacement vid talking bout your car's paint to exactly the vid I needed to watch!! You sir have a new sub! My TL 01 while on freeway the check engine light came on w/ TCS, opened n closed gas cap hours later turned car on TCS light was off check engine light was still on. OBD it @ AutoZone and P0740 & P1298 came out, print out said "replace transmission shift selenoid(s) & flush transmission fluid" also said "fault in the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit for a predetermined period of time" but the thing is that the transmission doesn't slip or jolt or there's no hard shifting its just normal (still) any thoughts? Car has bout 144k miles and just did a full synthetic oil change 2 weeks ago don't know if that matters ha! Thanks man!
Oh yes! Extra info. While on freeway had to break because i got cut off and water bottle hit the shift stick into neutral I didn't notice so I pressed on the gas and the rpm needle when up high -of course pressed it again till I noticed it was on neutral. About 20 mins later the check engine & TCS light came on, I thought it was a loose gas cap since I had "revved" the engine on neutral and I had just put gas the night before. Just extra info.
The car is able to detect when the screens are just starting to get clogged before it starts noticeably affecting the transmission's performance. Odds are there's a little transmission clutch wear starting to build up in there causing your CEL. So I would go ahead and clean them out! The fact that you changed out the ATF is also good! You don't want that to get too dirty. Also if you're going to be taking your car apart and cleaning out the solenoid screens, might I also recommend replacing the exterior transmission filter since it's also right there!
Incin3ration wait I didn't do an ATF flush it was just an oil change.I will clean the solenoids out but somebody told me though to change the ATF 3 times, any thoughts on this? I've never done an ATF flush since I got it in 08 Also, I drive 100 miles every day x6 @80mph is it still ok to drive it like that? Or am I messing something else up? Thanks man! ..Oh yeah also I took it to the mech ran his obd said it was engine problems needed a new engine told him about just cleaning out the solenoids stood quiet for 3 secs and said he had done that to his Honda and they kept clogging up again and again and again.
Oh sorry, must have read that wrong! Thought you were referring to changing your ATF. Since we are on the topic, if your ATF is really dark, I might recommend doing an ATF drain and fill 2 or 3 times. If you do multiple drain-and-fills, be sure to space them out by maybe at least a week so you're not completely shocking the system with brand new fluid all at once. Also, it's actually very good for your car to get lots of freeway miles like that! I myself drive about 90 miles per day right now all freeway. What's really bad for a car is not driving it enough and driving short city stop-and-go type commutes. The screens won't keep clogging up like he's saying. Even if they do, so what? I'd rather make my transmission last as long as possible and clean them up for free every now and then rather than pay for a new $3000 transmission. Maybe he doesn't change his ATF and filter idk. Sounds like he's trying to make $$ off you. I did have to clean them another time after making this video. Turns out it wasn't clutch wear material but rather a fibrous material coming off the much cheaper Autozone ATF filter I put on my car. Never making that mistake again, OEM all the way.
Incin3ration thanks for all the superb info man much appreciated! Is drain & fill same as flush? And yes I was also thinking of going w AutoZone's filter but from what you said oem it is.
Hey man GREAT video! I have a 2000 acura tl and I have the codes, p0730 and p0706. When I test my Solenoid like you did ( the big one ) I am getting 7.2 to 7.5 on both plugs but your getting 5.5. Is my Solenoid bad?
Thank you..
The solenoids should measure between 3-10 ohms. So it passes the ohm test! You could also get some alligator clips and wire, and connect it your cars 12v battery to see if it's clicking. Also, make sure your transmission fluid isn't super dark and dirty, make sure the ATF is at the proper level, and only use Honda DW-1 ATF.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple This is going to sound like a dumb fucking question but
If a alternator goes out could that cause coil packs to fuck up? The day I replaced my alternator my car started to misfire and I thought I fixed it but it actually gotten worst.
It was NOT misfiring at all before my alternator went out only after
@@williammcarthur6845 is it idling rough or is it misfiring? There is a difference. I know when I disconnect my battery, my car idles rough at really low RPM's, almost like it's bogging down for the first few hundred miles. If you're not getting a CEL, give it a little bit of time and see if it goes away.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I got codes for a misfire and it is idling horribly. I replaced the spark plug and coil pack and still misfires
@@williammcarthur6845 which codes is it giving you? If it's a particular cylinder, try moving the coils and plugs around and see if the code changes cylinders. It could be a variety of things. One of the new parts could be defective, could be a bad ground, could be a bad battery or the new alternator isn't charging the battery properly, maybe the coil connectors aren't connected properly. Hard to say when I'm not there. Check all your connections, and get a multimeter and check the battery voltages. There are plenty of videos on youtube on how to test your battery and alternator. Or maybe take it to AutoZone where they can test it for free.