Excellent Video! Accurate Information. We bought my daughter a 2003 Acura TL about 5 weeks ago with 121,000 miles. Two weeks later transmission would feel like it would slip slightly when going into 3rd gear. One week after that, weird and troublesome shifting when on the road. Another week, hard shift from park to any gear. Sometimes would not go into reverse. 3 days ago, followed this video which gives excellent instructions. Was a bit dis-heartened when the filters on the dual solenoid set were clean. But! was happy (you know what I mean) to find the lower single solenoid filter completely blocked. Easily cleaned. Checked solenoid operation by applying 12V. Also found transmission filter to be restricted so replaced that. When I first stared the car up and put into gear, same things happened but cleared up immediately. The transmission it really running smooth now (4 days). Very happy and scored some points with my daughter. The transmission fluid is a bit discolored and doesn't look like it has been changed. Will flush in next day or too. I hope as much luck to any of you reading this. Thank you very, very much "Incin3ration", creator of this video!
@@jmj_d5207 These times are estimates. About 1 year after the cleaning I had to clean again with same very good results. The car ran great another year but was in an accident that damage the front end and we sold it. Good luck!
I'm glad to see this. I junked my '99 Accord about 4 years ago because I assumed the tranny was shot. I realize now it was the solenoids. I have watched other videos on the subject. I wont make that mistake again.
Thanks for your comment I was just now devastated when the top dual solenoid was clean as can be I’ll get a flex joint and take off the lower one next!
I would give you a hug, man. I'm so happy after my car works again. Thank you very much for video. My tranmission acted up with D5 light flashed and all other crazy stuffs. Scanner gave me code P1750. I followed your instruction and get it done in 1.5 hrs. Tranmission is quite smooth now. Thanks again.
I have a 2000 Acura TL that started shifting hard at about 173K Miles. After viewing your video a few times I went out to my shop and performed your cleaning process of the screens. I found the exact gunk you did loaded up on the one upper screen and the lower screen as well. I didn't have compressed air but used brake parts cleaner to remove the buildup and what can I say but it worked beautifully!!! I could see where a Transmission shop could have made this a $1500-$2000 repair in a complete rebuild that was not needed. I was a little uneasy about reusing the same gaskets but carefully cleaned them off and using transmission fluid on the lower rubber gasket and working it in on the rubber was able to reassemble with no leaks. On my car I didn't need to remove the air pipe to gain access so it saved me time while doing this process. My Acura now shifts beautifully again just like it should... I also did the transmission inline filter at the same time and with an Ohio car the bolts were a little rusty but I sprayed them down with solvent and when the bolts got tight, I stopped, spun them back in, used a small metal brush, tooth brush size (Harbor Freight) to clean the threads and repeated till the bolts came out clean. If I had just tried to crank them out I'm sure they would have broken off making a big problem but taking time to work then out saved the bolts and the threads in the bracket. I used grease on the bolts when re-installing to make sure they would spin out when the filter needs changed again. Hats off to you and thank you VERY much for taking the time to video the process and share it with other Acura/Honda owners. Your videos and the quality of the view and explanation to guide others through various repair processes are 2nd to none! Thanks again and keep up the great works.
I just bought a CLS and have been hearing nothing but horror stories about the transmissions. Your updates in the description will help me sleep well at night and i'll be sure to tackle all these projects asap. Thanks for the informative videos
the dealer swapped a rebuilt trany in my 01CLS under warranty then it failed again 13 month later... they asked for $5k, I said: every year? the junk clutch shavings that plug the solenoid screens, should not be there in the 1st place... meaning cleaning is hardly a patch before auctioning, not a fix !
If you are thinking about buying an Acura/Honda with a 3.2L engine from 2000 to 2005, DON'T. YOU WILL HAVE THIS ISSUE Excellent video! My issue is a little different. I have a 2003 Acura CL that shudders hard from 2nd to 3rd gear with no CEL. So I changed the shift solenoids 28610-ray-003 and 28600-ray-003, and highly recommend it to anyone whose doing this, they are literally right next to these parts. For me changing the shift solenoids didnt quite do the job, all the other shifts were perfect but from 2nd to 3rd still shuddered. So I kept searching and stumbled on this video and decided to try this out myself. It took me about an hour to an hour and a half and I took it out for a test immediately and everything went perfect, however, as i continue to drive it, it does new things. It just locked me in park after I put gas in it, shudder on the way to the local grocery store. Upon leaving I got up to highway speed rather quickly and the CEL started flashing, but as soon as I pulled over it stopped flashing. I will try to clean the bottom filter (which was totally clogged) again tomorrow, but if it doesnt work I don't know what else to try. Incin3ration if you have any ideas I would love to hear them!
Thank you, Thank you. Followed your instructions and also changed the tranny filter and fluid. My wife and son considered my efforts a waste of time. They were talking a repair worth more than the value of the car. I drove 10 miles immediately after cleaning and had absolutely no issues, which would normally occur at about 3 miles or when fully warmed. 105,000 miles at time of cleaning/repair - maybe we will make 200,000. This car still looks great with little rust and a few cracks in the leather. I just replaced fog lights 6 months ago and was ready to pull tires tires, lights and all good components to sell used. BTW, fog lights on the web from $150 - $190 for the pair for DIY. Quote from my Acura dealer $480 per pair with install extra.
Hows the car holding up? and yeah the fog assemblies are a little pricey, but as nice as they are, it's not too surprising. When I got my car, it had a hole in the fog light and I replaced it for $60 from amazon! less than 2 years later, same side got another hole in it, but I caught it pretty quickly. I made a custom replacement lens out of LEXAN Polycarbonate. It's just as clear as glass, but also 250 times stronger. Sealed the edges with some weatherproof silicone and it has held up perfectly!
Awesome video, I have a 2005 TL and one about a year ago I got that P0740 error code,,, it went away by itself, but I knew something was wrong and feared transmission problems, now I know what to do. Knowledge is power, thank you
Just in case this doesn't work for anyone.. You may consider doing a AV6 swap .. You can goggle it ,but I was short on luck. my transmission shop was/is willing to do it but told me the donor transmission needs to be 20,000 - 45,000 miles. He said with all the V6 trannys up to 2010 are vunerable to slipping after 50-60,000 miles... The issue is still there. Some who did the swap are kinda still riding on luck. But it still worth a shot... I'm gonna still try but I can't find anything under 50,000 anywhere.. But I think it's due to them still being used and possibly rebuilt. But this video is working for me so far after 1 drain & fill .
I have a 2000 acura tl i just replaced the trans with a used one.it had a similar problem shifting into 3rd gear.i watch your video last night today i did exactly like you did in you video.the bottom selonoid filter was completly clogged with friction material cleaned with throddle body cleaner.test drove it a few miles and it seems to be much smoother ride.great video very informative.thankyou for your help i will subscribe to your channel.thanx again.
My co-worker has a car with transmission issues on their TL and the repair shop was claiming $2500 to fix (about to call and confirm that it really is the solenoids since her son took it in). Even if we were to replace just the solenoids, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much (found them on RockAuto for ~$150 a piece). Heck, they bought the car for only $3200. I'm down to saving them some $ even if I spend an hour or two to do it myself.
Yah it is a relatively easy job to do. Just a lot of parts to remove first. When I first initially called a transmission shop, they weren't even willing to try and find a solution, but rather just quoted me about $2500 to rebuild the transmission. I said screw that and ended up discovering and fixing the issue myself. I can't guarantee you this will fix your problems, but it has helped most people. Good luck!
Thank you for these videos! Although we dont have the same engine we do have the same transmission (2003 honda pilot here that had the oil jet recall over the fill bolt as well...did not know why I couldnt find the fill bolt until I watched your other video! 😂 I filled through the dipstick tube like you do) so your help on these things is very much appreciated! 👍👍😊😊
my 02 Acura cl died on me when it hit 130k - i replaced it with 06 odyssey transmission - direct fit. no issues ever since. For cheap replacement solenoids - get it from local junk yard - check their odyssey parts
It would have been helpful to know you can accidentally blow the screen out of the tube and lose it. I lost two. Guess that's why it's better to clean with a spray than compressed air.
Most common mistakes made by mechanic technicians is that they mis diagnose the problem and rebuild the whole unit; when it could be a small part that's is wrong! Heat is the enemy of transmissions, most of the time on high mile vehicles it's the shift solenoids that get dirty and cause shifting problems. not all trans are the same in design just like not all transmission builders are any good especially when they rather rebuild than diagnose a common sense problem, nice vid...
Thanks! Yes heat is definitely a problem, which is exactly why this vehicle had a transmission recall to get an oil jet installed. Initially before I figured this solenoid solution out, nobody wanted to diagnose my transmission and just straight up quoted me thousands of dollars to do a rebuild. I hope more people can learn about this relatively simple fix to avoid wasting thousands.
Incin3ration so this fixed your transmission?? All that material in the screen is clutch material so it’s just a matter of time before the problem returns
What was your odyssey doing? We were cruising down the highway and it just stopped shifting and wouldn't even rev up. We thought the whole transmission was messed up so we towed it back to the house and then a few weeks later, my husband started it up and was able to drive it around the block. Were thinking that this screen is the problem
So I have a 2003 Acura TL 3.2 Type S with 173,100 miles previously owned by one owner and well maintained. So I got a check engine light come up and read the code and it was P0740( Torque converter Solenoid). I was frightened, but I did my research on Google and UA-cam. Upon that, I stumbled across this video and I was like okay I have similar symptoms of transmission slipping a bit and having a hard time picking up on highway speeds. Also turning and hitting the gas at the same time was a problem. So I decided to do the exact same fix myself. The process was very simple but annoying. I recommend the universal ratchet it helps a lot. Oh I forgot to mention if you do plan on doing this do it on a flat surface because as I was removing the solenoid and the transmission fluid leaked a little to the side. In conclusion the top solenoid screens were clean, but the bottom solenoid screen/filter was very clogged with transmission gunk. I didnt have a air Compressor. So I bought a Computer cleaner can of Compressed air at Staples or office depot. So it did the job and cleaned it right up. After cleaning the screens on all the solenoids I put everything back together and now my transmission feels more responsive and no slips and ill update if anything persist. So far it feels good 👍 the process took about an hour.
That is very good to hear this worked for you! You can also use brake cleaner to clean out the screens as well. In some cases, I've heard of people having to clean the filters twice or even three times, but let's hope it's a one-and-done deal! I also know you said the previous owner took good care of the car, but just make sure the transmission fluid isn't brown, black, or giving off a burnt smell, and always use Honda DW-1. Best of luck to you!
did you buy chance have a leak? i was told at the oils hop i had a leak a small one though. do you think just cleaning the screens/filters helped? and in addition, did you drain ( and/or) flush the trans fluid? i went to autozone got the same code and that was one of the results that was given on the paper. as well as changing shift solenoids.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplemost definitely not but thanks to you it is now alot easier! I have 189k og miles. After i do this i will come back and let it be known if jt helped
Does only the lower Solenoid, the one that’s held by 4 bolts, have a gasket? Or does the Top Solenoid have one, too? Thank you for making this Video! I now have the confidence needed to do the work myself on my ‘02 Acura TL. Your instructional videos save me Money 💵
Yeah the bottom one has an all in one gasket and filter. The top solenoid has three o-ring gaskets that go around the tube filters. I'm glad my video was helpful! Good luck to you!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks, seriously. I any got the first three cleaned before I ran out of sunlight, and couldn't find the last one but I'm gonna look into it more next day off. Just cleaning these three made a huge difference and took the check engine light off
Hi Incin, totally awesome instructional video. Really well though out and I appreciate including initial pics and identifying a 2nd solenoid area towards the bottom. I have a 6th generation (98-02) Accord v6 and looking at my engine compartment it appears my transmission is set up the same. Would you be able to concur? I have 200k and started having intermittent shifting delays so I replaced my water pump and timing belt. Of course that was not the problem. I did a transmission fluid change but still have issue. When idling with brake on and shift through gears there is a definite jolt going from D4 to 2. Going back up seems the same when moving from 1 to 2. Sometimes there is a delay into second when starting from stoplight. However I also notice that if I'm heavy on the pedal shifting sometimes seems smoother. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Again thank you, Michael
Yes, I reused the Solenoid Gaskets and the O-ring gaskets. If you lost one or need a new one, they are available on any Acura parts website under the section "AT Sensor - Solenoid."
Long story short... I did clean my screen filters on both solenoids yesterday .. Similar filters were clogged... I also changed my external filter.. It changes smoother but I got the rev up thing again after going uphill and unto a flat.. Thing is when I got the car in 2016 it was sitting for a years plus before so I don't know how the fluid looked or what. My foolish mistake was taking it to Jiffy Lube..but the same symptoms happen even after their fluid change... What I'm very skeptical about is I asked if it was Honda fluid ,they replied it's an equivalent.. I never got around to doing a change because this was the only vehicle working in my home.. My hope is that a 3x3 drain and fill every 1000 miles will solve the rev up issue.. Because it could have been both old fluid,clogged filters and jiffy lube knock off fluid that still making this happen. Will update after Honda fluid change tomorrow.
Yeah these transmissions very specifically require the Honda DW-1 ATF, and it very well could make a difference. And after a drive, park your car on a level surface, turn off the engine, and check the fluid level again. Having the ATF level slightly over/under filled can cause issues as well.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Okay so I did a drain and fill with DW-1 3 days ago.. Shifts are a bit smoother but I've had 3 times since that the rev up and won't go in gear thing happened. I'm wondering if the 6 or so quarts of Jiffy Lube crap fluid is overpowering the Honda one and heating up due to the expired quailty. Do you feel by the next 2 drain and fills things should improve even more?
@@JJDRProductions There definitely is going to be left over jiffy lube fluid in your transmission after a single drain and fill. Our transmission actually holds about 9 quarts of fluid. So every time you drain and fill 3 quarts, you're only taking out 1/3 of the old fluid. So if you did it 2 more times for a total of 3 drain and fills, you will have removed about 75% of the jiffy fluid, which will definitely improve your transmission even more. It's good to hear things are improving though!
you my friend are awesome, thank you so much for the detailed process. I'm going to follow this step by step on my 01 Acura cl s-type and hope for the best. +1 sub
This was well detailed. I have a 2003 RSX with the same symptoms on a rebuilt transmission with only 5k miles on it. I’m hoping it’s only the screens. The shop close a year ago. 😳
Solution pls :- My Honda bulldog 1999 D4 light always start to blink when the gear change to 3 or 4, but if i off the engine and start again it will stop but when it change to 3or 4 gear is start to blink again but my speedometer is not work, i need your advice on how to solve the issue
Hey man, great info. Hopefully this will fix my shift delays from 1-2 and 3-4 and my CEL (pressure solenoid failure), without having to totally replace the solenoids, on my ‘01 CL-S. Quick question: did you change the fluid before or after doing this? Trying to decide if it would be better to change the fluid before hand, to avoid having to clean gunk out of those screens again if I change fluid after...will be doing the 3x drain and fill and changing the external spin-on filter as well
If it's an option, yes, I would recommend changing the transmission fluid and spin-on filter first and cleaning the solenoid screen filters after. Of course, it requires the same disassembly to do both jobs, so you can get both done at the same time! Good luck!
wow 2017 and if the solenoids are good presto just saved 300+ in parts and took me about a good 2 and. a half hours later and what do you know trans shifts like my Infiniti smooth and fast I am going to do a drain and refill on trans fluid asap was brown and not 🍒 red will update with the progress but thinks again everyone kept telling me it was the trans but the trans was fairly new my lower one and two of the top ones were the culprit I didn't use air gun used some brake cleaner made them look brand new and of course cleaned the solenoids themselves along with area any other post I'll follow I thought I was gonna have to junk my 2003 beauty now just need to figure out blower motor and install fog and light bulb on driver's side and I'm done
I'm glad to hear it worked! Yah definitely change that fluid, could be an underlying cause for the clogged filters. Might I also recommend changing the ATF filter if that hasn't been done in a while. I actually just uploaded a video on how to do that if you need help.
If you’re still having transmission problems, you could perhaps try doing an ohm test on the solenoids. I’ve had plenty of people tell me changing the solenoids has fixed their problems.
Yea I have a 1997 honda prelude an I have a p1773 code saying a/t clutch control solenoid b circuit malfunction....an I went to az they said that piece was 250$ as well an I hope I could clean it an take care of that problem as well but hopefully I can just replace one of the solenoids which a 50$ piece...
Yeah cleaning these filters has helped a lot of people! If it doesn't work and you buy another solenoid, I would highly advise not buying an aftermarket part. Go with OEM Genuine Honda. I agree $250 is steep, so maybe you could find a used one at a junkyard or ebay. If you need help finding a part # let me know.
Incin3ration thanks bro I appreciate it!! I actually did what you said in the video I took apart the solenoid a an b an sprayed them with carberator cleaner an reassembled everything left positive termimal on batt off for 30sec to reset cel..an so far so good no light or malfunctions:)))))))))) only thing now is to fix my ignition switch...apperently the ignition switch has a recall on it causing the car to stall....so waiting on Honda to repair the problem...free of charge of course:)))
This solenoid affects all gears. There are, however, oil pressure switches that affect certain gears. You can check out my other video for more information on that! ua-cam.com/video/_I8zfFmVZZI/v-deo.html
hey i could really use your help I'm having big problems with me 2002 acura tl type s 150k miles i bought it a month ago it was driving fine only prob was if i didn't warm it up the car would just go into neutral wile i was driving randomly but i would just turn the car off and on and it wouldn't happen again but as long as i warmed the car up nothing happened , i put in a bottle of lucas stop slip because people on message boards said it work and it did for 1 day the car ran perfect then all the sudden on the highway it just started going crazy so i drained the fluid and added 4 qt. of new tranny fluid and the car ran good again for 1 day but now again the car has p0720 and p0730 code the car will go into d5 drive for 20 seconds and then neutral out again so i have to turn it off let it sit and again drives for 20 seconds and neutrals out again , took it to the shop he said i need to rebuild the transmission but i really don't have the money to rebuild so i wanted to see if theres any advice you can give me on something i can do to get this car running again
Interesting, when I was having my transmission problems, it would run fine when cold, but when it warmed up, then it started having problems. Personally, I wouldn't have put the Lucas in at all. All it does is make your ATF thicker which isn't good for this car which already has transmission flow problems, hence the oil jet recall. On top of that, these solenoid screen filters and the exterior ATF filter both of which most people don't think about can actually get clogged over time, and then trying to run thick fluid through those clogged filters won't help anything. Not criticizing you, just letting you know why you should avoid it in the future. P0720 is a "faulty speed sensor" CEL code, which can be caused by your transmission problems. P0730 is a "faulty shift control system" CEL code. This code can be caused by improper maintenance of your ATF or a faulty solenoid. So start with these things: did you clean these solenoid screen filters yet? How's the electrical current in the solenoids? When was the last time your exterior ATF filter was changed? How does your ATF look? Bright red, dark red, brown, or black? Where's your ATF level at? If it's too high or too low, that can cause symptoms and possibly damage to your transmission. To check it, bring your car to full operating temperature, park your vehicle on a perfectly level surface, turn off the car, and check the ATF dipstick. Make sure you use authentic Honda DW-1 ATF fluid.
I’ve ever heard of them getting stuck before, I guess don’t be afraid to use some muscle! Just try to remember to remove it mostly straight up so you don’t bend the little tubes inside it.
Hi Incin3ration, I just bought a 2002 TL, and I've noticed that the third gear kinda jerks a little. a couple of times the car didn't shift into 3rd gear. DO you think cleaning the transmission solenoid would help?? thanks
+Fadi alsaidi It's very possible this could help. One thing is for sure, this won't hurt anything. Cleaner filters are better filters. I had that same problem, not being able to shift into third, then I'd have to bring it back down to second then third again, or put it in neutral and then back into drive. I'd say give it a go!
+Joseph C. I don't know if it would have. I couldn't find a mechanic who is willing to do it, and I am definitely not mechanically inclined. I ended up rebuilding the transmission.
John Salster Very well! This definitely fixed the problem. My last update was at about 1000 miles, I'd say it's been about 2000 miles now, and everything is running great!
Yah those can definitely be difficult to remove. It’s been a long time, but it was probably just a standard pair of pliers. Maybe spray the metal with a little wd-40 to help get it off
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple i'd tried everything but could not remove it, and also those 6 bolts on the linear solieod iI got the last bolt and could not remove it I put PB blast on it and no bueno 🥲
are the filters all the same size for a base 3.2L? i checked acura part sites and they show them all the same length, but on honda sites for the same engine, they are all 3 different lengths.
They do vary in size depending on the exact year, make, and model. For the 2000-2003 base and Type-S TL's, all three filters are the same length (8x18 Pipe) as far as I'm aware. On the 99 TL, they're different lengths. I would recommend going off of what the Acura website says. I personally like acurapartsforless.com.
I have the error code for solenoid problem. I asked a mechanic and he said it could cost hundreds of dollars for just the parts. What do you think it would cost to ask a mechanic to take it apart and clean the filters like you did? I do not have the tools for taking apart components in an engine.
I can tell you this job can take a good 2 maybe 3 hours. So even if you took your car to a dealership where they charge like $110 per hour, it should still cost you less than $300. Obviously, if you take it to a local trusted mechanic, it'll cost even less.
well dirty screens in the first place show that something isn't right internally. Only other thing I can recommend off the top of my head is to check the condition of your ATF. Is it nice and red, or is it dark, brown, or black? Furthermore, when was the last time your exterior ATF filter was changed? Lastly, make sure your ATF level isn't too high or low. There's also the possibility the solenoids themselves are going bad, which is why I put the ohm test at the end. Also, try entering your CEL codes at autocodes.com. Good luck man.
Just did this for my 1999 TL, car is shifting great now and the check engine has not returned yet. Im still kina scared because I read up that P0740 means a dying transmission. But I don't know about that.
Awesome to hear! Yup the "Code of Death" as they call it. I can't help but wonder how many people spent thousands replacing their transmission when the problem was as simple as this!
yah give this a try jipsee1! definitely can't hurt anything! The car getting stuck in "neutral" when you try to change gears are normal symptoms. Cleaning the solenoids have fixed many peoples transmission!
thanks.. told needed 2nd 3rd gear and also won't reverse who heated up the d5 light flash after awhile of driving i have 2001mdx wit 150k...i owe 2k can't afford to pay for new transmission other than that runs great!!
Hey I have a question for my 2003 TL type S, my cars transmission is slipping and not shifting gears sometimes with the error code P1750. What do you recommend I replace?
The problem regarding that code involves the solenoid located on top of the transmission, which I removed at 10:35. If you have already ensured that the filters are clear of debris, the next step would be to replace the solenoid itself. The part number is 28250-P6H-024. It's an expensive part at $323 + shipping, but I would still highly recommend getting an OEM Genuine Honda part, not something aftermarket as I've heard of aftermarket solenoids not working properly. While you're at it, I would also recommend replacing your transmission fluid with Honda DW-1 if it looks dark or smells burnt. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks I’ll look that part up. This only occurs when I have been driving for around 15-20 mins when the engine is hot. The shifting will be really jerky and when I press the gas the car will not accelerate. Please let me know if that’s the right part, I just want to make sure
Kevin Lau if you had 1 specific gear that had problems, maybe. But you seem to be having general overall slipping and shifting problems with a code that directly points you to the control solenoid that I mentioned before, in which case I wouldn’t start randomly throwing money at other parts hoping for the best.
I don't know about both codes. P0740 refers to the 2 TCC solenoids I cleaned in this video and cleaning the screen filters is the absolute best place to start. If you know your fluid is looking pretty bad and dark, as well as improper fluid level, that may very well be the underlying cause of your codes too. In which case, we can only hope the neglect hasn't caused too much damage. I would also recommend changing the exterior ATF filter while you're at it. If you do all this and you still have P0740, you'll probably need to change the solenoids themselves which are rather pricey. P0780 refers to a faulty shifting solenoid valve, and there are 4 of those. Just for reference, the part numbers for my car are 28400-P6H-013 & 28500-P6H-013. There are 2 of each. Maybe do an ohm test on those solenoids on your car to find which one is bad and possibly causing the other P0780 code.
I's so glad you answered my question I just posted today. I should have looked at other replies before asking. I can't wait to get my 2003 honda pilot back running. I'm have a friend watch this video it's great. thank you for your reply I'll let you know how it came out. Thank God for youtube.
I don't an air gun can I use a Q-tip to can it out or blow it out with a hair dryer, I understand it has a filter on one end of it. Can it be washed with warn water and then re-oiled. Thanks for this video it's very helpful i'm trying to figure away to do because I don't have that blower, if you can come up with something I'ed really appreciate it and thanks for your reply.
a lot of people have told me they use brake cleaner. You could definitely try that. Otherwise I suppose you could try shooting some water through it! Make sure you dry it though!
Thank you so much for this video and the transmission filter/oil change, my 01 cl type s was having extremely hard shifting , sometimes 3rd wouldn't go into gear and sometimes 1st would lag into 2nd and be a very rough shift. Reverse would be a late and rough shift and so on and so on( at the same time learning how to drive without beating down my trans.) .still going to do a 2nd drain n fill because the bolt was literally covered with sludge and metal😭 the screen filters were so gunked up it took a while to clean them out and had to use a lil tissue and a coffee straw to remove some of the crusted gunk. SO AGAIN in 2020 🙏thank you so much for saving my transmission!
That’s awesome to hear it worked for you! I’m glad my videos could be helpful! Keep up with those transmission fluid changes and these cars will last a very long time!
2000 Acura TL, 270K MILES. Factory engine and transmission.I was experiencing severe shuttering at 30 mph... and some slippage.Did 3x tyranny flush/fill and changed external filter. Problem persisted.Tcc error codes on scan tool, so I took it to the garage and they said 'minimum 2500 repair.'I watched this video an cleaned the screens. On mine, the screen on the lower solenoid was blocked. Cleaned easily.BONUS.... I found that the chassis ground near the upper solenoid was corroded. I reattached the grounding terminal with solder... then put everything back together.RESULT:My 270,000 mile car that I bought at 197,000 miles runs like brand new again!!!!The grounding terminal fix seemed to clear up an issue that was throwing an evap canister error code that has been coming up for the past 30k miles. I would reset the code and it would just come back ten miles later. It has been 2000 miles since cleaning the solenoids... no evap canister codes and no tcc error codes.CONCLUSION:This little trick saved me at least 2500.00. THANK YOU.
That's awesome to hear! Gives me confidence my car will also make it that far without any issues! I got 3 years of college left and the last thing I need is a transmission replacement. I'll have to double check that corroded chassis ground thing you mentioned because I currently have the evap canister code. Probably not the cause since the CEL would come on and off every time I filled the tank. But it wouldn't hurt to check.
You might consider installing an externally mounted transmission fluid filter (similar to: amzn.to/2ARMHKC) into your Acura as another form of preventative maintenance.
I encourage anyone who is having transmission problems to do this. I did this with NO problem. never done this an it was VERY simple. save ur self the cash. I used throttle body cleaner, and in a 2000 Acura TL their is no need to remove the air box.
I have a 2003 CL type s I just bought about a month ago, car ran perfect and was owned by older lady. Yesterday car started to do this. Will try this fix today, thank you!
I have seen very early signs of shifting trouble, I'm gonna do this next weekend and see if I see a difference! I too have an 02 TL-S, I will post results
I am very impressed by your diagnosis and willingness to tackle a project like this without formal training. Nice work. Btw clean your area surrounding valve bodies, etc before removal so contaminant aren't introduced. Thumbs up
Ive been having the same problems with my 01 accord, sometimes it wouldn’t even shift while revving. Thank you, you saved me lots of money from buying a new transmission
Yo, you're the man! (self employed mechanic/motorcycles-bikes-cars) I've been working on a customer's 1997 Acura CL 3.0 Base Coupe 123,000 miles w/ several - random transmission problems: AutoZone told the owner that the engine code reader reported a faulty "Main shaft speed sensor" so I replaced that, drained 3 quarts of trans fluid via the drain plug, removed the fill plug put in three quarts of New HONDA SPECIFIC - ATF-DW1 - Which REPLACES HONDA'S REQUIRED ATF-Z1 FLUID. After installing a new drain plug washer/drain plug (w/ 3/8th inch drive extension) three quarts of DW-1 fluid and the new sensor (on the back side of trans/has only two attaching bolts and a tiny/ approx. one inch drive shaft that connects it w/ the trans.). After completing that work & no warning lights illuminated, I test drive the car and it slips horribly in all forward gears or won't move forward at all....I saw your video, cleaned the screens and IT WORKS PERFECTLY NOW! You saved my butt and made me a few more bucks, thank you-Very cool.
What I recommend to everyone who gonna do this job, buy new solenoid gaskets and small rubber seals. These bits are cheap and worth to replace especially if car is older than 10 years
This fix works great, we have 2001 Honda Accord EX V6. Part Numbers and suggested bolt replacement. I suggest replacing at least the two rear bolts with Allen Head Bolts for replacement ease., the Bolts # 81673 are Metric 6mm X 25mm and Flats#87926 6mm metric flat 3 "O-Rings", Honda OEM Part# 91301PC9003 O-Ring 7.7 X 2.3 "Google it" The Gasket OEM Part# is 28252-PAX--000. The Complete Solenoid Assembly OEM Part # 28250-P6H-024.
Thank you so much took me about two hours all I had to remove was the battery, battery tray and battery tray support and those clips shown in the video, and of course the solenoid top itself. Problem with my 2002 Acura Tl Type S with 93K miles. I had hard shifting, not going into gear, super hard shift going into reverse. Engine codes: P0700(A/T System Malfunction) Transmission Codes: P1750(Clutch Pressure Failure), P1751(2-3 Shift Malfunction). I cleaned the screens with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and then blew with compressed air. I also changed out the transmission fluid and filter.
I thought my 2000 TL transmission was toast until I found this video. I am the original owner and the car only has 73K on it. I had the trans serviced at the factory suggested 50K which I have found out from you and now others is not nearly often enough. It had been shifting a little weird for a couple of months and then the shifting went wild. The ATF was full. Between gears it was like a stick shift on steroids. Going any gear, when it came time to upshift, the engine completely disengaged from the transmission. The engine would rev from loosing engagement and then the transmission would SLAM into the next gear. I thought for sure I would have broken motor mounts on top of the transmission issues. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I cleaned the four solenoid filters as you suggested. I also put in a new transmission filter, drained the ATF and refilled. The trans hasn't worked this well in years.
I use seafoam trans tune and did the same work . Its amazing everybody thinks that the transmision are bad or something like that and everything is clogged like those solenoid screens
Awsome videos bro! When is your birthday I’m gonna try to get followers to pitch in to get you some king of camara/phone stand or something to help u out. Hey at least you know if you were to ever to lose a arm “let’s hope not” you would have no issues working on cars. Great video brother.
Thank you! Glad you have been enjoying my videos! lol true! Filming would be a bit more difficult though haha That's very generous of you! My birthday isn't for a while, unfortunately. I have gotten a nice iPhone camera stand since making this video, hoping to get a microphone as my next upgrade!
Auto Outlet that is true! I guess my main concern is if you do that, you’d be putting a used 15 year old solenoid back on your vehicle. But I suppose it depends on how much money you want to put in the car and/or how long you plan on keeping it.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yea definitely, luckily Honda parts are super reliable so they are usually still straight to use. Definitely better paying 10-20 dollars than 300 dollars
Before taking all that crap out of your engine bay try 10 oz of Sea Foam Trans Tune down the dip stick tube. Drive it for 300 miles then change the Transmission fluid. It worked for me. The code cleared and it's shifting smooth. Sea foam desolved all the sludge that was built-up in the sensor screens and other parts of the transmission.
170k miles was running perfect then random p0704 code which i cleared then noticed slipping couple days later and got to the point today where car just wouldn’t move when in gear just rev or take a long time to shift to the gear and be able to move. Did a 3.5 quart drain and fill with new filter and had grayish peanut butter texture on the drain bolt magnet with pretty burnt fluid but definitely not the worst .checked both solenoids today and to my surprise they were both spotless should i try changing the whole solenoids themselves or lost cause ??? also got code p0703 today the 0704 hasn’t came back and p0703 cleared when i disconnected battery to perform this but still slips on heavy throttle and im guessing it’ll still do the standstill/harsh random downshifts . any info or lost cause???
I have a couple comments to make: 1. You said your ATF is pretty burnt. If the fluid is still looking bad after doing the drain and fill, it could be beneficial to do another one. 2. Clearing the CEL codes, whether it's with an OBD-II scanner or disconnecting the battery, that won't make the problem go away, and it's very possible p0740 could still be a relevant code, but the system hasn't had enough time to trigger it again because the system keeps getting reset. 3. The dual-linear solenoid is related to both p0730 and p0740 and has caused people issues in the past where replacing it was the solution. I would not recommend after-market solenoids as those have given people problems and were a waste of money. If you love this car and plan on keeping it for a while, I would recommend spending the $400 on a new one. Otherwise, you could try going to a junkyard or getting a used one on eBay for $50.
last question, these are your shift solenoids correct? the autozone paper you receive after getting a code tells me P0740 and suggested job is to replace shift solenoids , and drain(and/or) flush transmission fluid. did you clean the screens so you would have to replace any parts?
@@daeveonnash2368 these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody. Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.
Thanks so much for making the video! I've got an Acura TL 2002- getting the P0740 code for Torque Converter Clutch Circuit and several sites recommended replacing the $250+ Solenoid but first I'll try cleaning them as you most excellently demonstrated!! Thanks again!
You are very welcome! Yes cleaning these tiny filters can definitely make a worlds difference! Otherwise, replacing the solenoid is still a lot better than spending thousands on a new/rebuilt transmission. Good luck!
I couldn’t get the Stubborn Bolts loose when I was trying to remove the Battery Plate. They were on Very Tight! Did you have trouble removing those Bolts holding the Battery Plate?
Yeah some of them can be stubborn, especially if they've never been removed before in the last 16 years. I use my biggest ratchet and longest extension to remove them. Maybe try an impact drill?
Do you have any check engine light codes? If not, when was the last time you changed your transmission fluid? It’s vital to keep the fluid clean and at the proper level in these cars. If your fluid is dirty, there’s a chance they might need to be cleaned again. I might also recommend checking out my pressure switch video. Those are known to go bad over time and need replacing. Sounds like you might need to change both the 3rd and 4th gear switches.
No codes but had trouble shifting into third sometimes (slip, hard shift), and all gears had a similar but less prominent problem. Center filter was pretty clogged on the top solenoid screen set, and the bottom one was also pretty clogged. Cleaned them out with a q tip and mineral spirits (no air gun...) and transmission runs like new! Thank you so much for this video!!!
it is possible that our transmissions are built slightly differently. In which case the same principle still applies, just clean all the screen filters. Otherwise, make sure the filter tubes didn't simply stay in the transmission when removing the solenoid.
I have a 2005 Acura tl with the same issue but it has a p0721 and p0722 code but I already replaced the sensor that it says it is but still has the same problem any help?
So just to confirm, you replaced the Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor? PN: 28810-PPW-013. Otherwise, make sure your ATF is clean and not over/underfilled using Honda DW-1, as well as clean these screen filters. Sometimes the solenoid can go bad without triggering a code. Do the ohm test, and perhaps consider replacing the upper solenoid with the 3 screen filters. You can find good deals on ebay and junkyards.
How clean is the transmission fluid? The stuff clogging up the screen filters is clutch material. I would recommend doing a transmission drain and fill. Also when was the last time your exterior transmission filter was changed? Doing that would definitely clean up the fluid a lot as well. Just make sure to use Honda DW-1 and an OEM Honda filter. The filter is a bit expensive but worth it. Check out my video on how to do it! ua-cam.com/video/SjYVD2WCrCM/v-deo.html
Thank you sir! Video helped heal my TLS 2003. P0740 Photos from the central filter solenoid control a, b, c: (28250-P6H-024, 28250-P7W-003) 100% true. Mileage 106K Ukraine, Kiev Alexander
Wow 246k that’s awesome, keep up the great work! It certainly won’t hurt anything to check and be safe! But unless you’re experiencing problems, you’re unlikely to find any gunk built up in the screen filters. Best preventative maintenance is to do an ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thats one thing i slacked on was tranny fluid changes. Kinda scared to change it now. I may send a sample to blackstone and see if they think its ok to change
They’re definitely available for purchase. Go to a Honda/Acura parts website, enter your vehicle, select transmission, then something along the line of “sensor - solenoid.” You could also give my your vehicle year make model and I’ll see if I can help
Excellent Video! Accurate Information. We bought my daughter a 2003 Acura TL about 5 weeks ago with 121,000 miles. Two weeks later transmission would feel like it would slip slightly when going into 3rd gear. One week after that, weird and troublesome shifting when on the road. Another week, hard shift from park to any gear. Sometimes would not go into reverse. 3 days ago, followed this video which gives excellent instructions. Was a bit dis-heartened when the filters on the dual solenoid set were clean. But! was happy (you know what I mean) to find the lower single solenoid filter completely blocked. Easily cleaned. Checked solenoid operation by applying 12V. Also found transmission filter to be restricted so replaced that. When I first stared the car up and put into gear, same things happened but cleared up immediately. The transmission it really running smooth now (4 days). Very happy and scored some points with my daughter. The transmission fluid is a bit discolored and doesn't look like it has been changed. Will flush in next day or too. I hope as much luck to any of you reading this. Thank you very, very much "Incin3ration", creator of this video!
How long did the vehicle last after? Just bought one but now afraid of getting a problem with it :/
@@jmj_d5207 These times are estimates. About 1 year after the cleaning I had to clean again with same very good results. The car ran great another year but was in an accident that damage the front end and we sold it. Good luck!
@@donestes2116 thanks for replying sounds good
I'm glad to see this. I junked my '99 Accord about 4 years ago because I assumed the tranny was shot. I realize now it was the solenoids. I have watched other videos on the subject. I wont make that mistake again.
Thanks for your comment I was just now devastated when the top dual solenoid was clean as can be I’ll get a flex joint and take off the lower one next!
I would give you a hug, man. I'm so happy after my car works again. Thank you very much for video. My tranmission acted up with D5 light flashed and all other crazy stuffs. Scanner gave me code P1750. I followed your instruction and get it done in 1.5 hrs. Tranmission is quite smooth now. Thanks again.
Awesome to hear! Glad to hear everything is running smoothly again! and thank you!
I have a 2000 Acura TL that started shifting hard at about 173K Miles. After viewing your video a few times I went out to my shop and performed your cleaning process of the screens. I found the exact gunk you did loaded up on the one upper screen and the lower screen as well. I didn't have compressed air but used brake parts cleaner to remove the buildup and what can I say but it worked beautifully!!! I could see where a Transmission shop could have made this a $1500-$2000 repair in a complete rebuild that was not needed. I was a little uneasy about reusing the same gaskets but carefully cleaned them off and using transmission fluid on the lower rubber gasket and working it in on the rubber was able to reassemble with no leaks. On my car I didn't need to remove the air pipe to gain access so it saved me time while doing this process.
My Acura now shifts beautifully again just like it should...
I also did the transmission inline filter at the same time and with an Ohio car the bolts were a little rusty but I sprayed them down with solvent and when the bolts got tight, I stopped, spun them back in, used a small metal brush, tooth brush size (Harbor Freight) to clean the threads and repeated till the bolts came out clean. If I had just tried to crank them out I'm sure they would have broken off making a big problem but taking time to work then out saved the bolts and the threads in the bracket. I used grease on the bolts when re-installing to make sure they would spin out when the filter needs changed again.
Hats off to you and thank you VERY much for taking the time to video the process and share it with other Acura/Honda owners.
Your videos and the quality of the view and explanation to guide others through various repair processes are 2nd to none!
Thanks again and keep up the great works.
Thank you so much! I appreciate it! Glad to hear your car is running beautifully again!
I just bought a CLS and have been hearing nothing but horror stories about the transmissions. Your updates in the description will help me sleep well at night and i'll be sure to tackle all these projects asap. Thanks for the informative videos
You're welcome! It has helped countless people! Good luck!
the dealer swapped a rebuilt trany in my 01CLS under warranty then it failed again 13 month later... they asked for $5k, I said: every year?
the junk clutch shavings that plug the solenoid screens, should not be there in the 1st place... meaning cleaning is hardly a patch before auctioning, not a fix !
If you are thinking about buying an Acura/Honda with a 3.2L engine from 2000 to 2005, DON'T. YOU WILL HAVE THIS ISSUE
Excellent video! My issue is a little different. I have a 2003 Acura CL that shudders hard from 2nd to 3rd gear with no CEL. So I changed the shift solenoids 28610-ray-003 and 28600-ray-003, and highly recommend it to anyone whose doing this, they are literally right next to these parts. For me changing the shift solenoids didnt quite do the job, all the other shifts were perfect but from 2nd to 3rd still shuddered. So I kept searching and stumbled on this video and decided to try this out myself. It took me about an hour to an hour and a half and I took it out for a test immediately and everything went perfect, however, as i continue to drive it, it does new things. It just locked me in park after I put gas in it, shudder on the way to the local grocery store. Upon leaving I got up to highway speed rather quickly and the CEL started flashing, but as soon as I pulled over it stopped flashing. I will try to clean the bottom filter (which was totally clogged) again tomorrow, but if it doesnt work I don't know what else to try. Incin3ration if you have any ideas I would love to hear them!
Thank you, Thank you. Followed your instructions and also changed the tranny filter and fluid. My wife and son considered my efforts a waste of time. They were talking a repair worth more than the value of the car. I drove 10 miles immediately after cleaning and had absolutely no issues, which would normally occur at about 3 miles or when fully warmed. 105,000 miles at time of cleaning/repair - maybe we will make 200,000.
This car still looks great with little rust and a few cracks in the leather. I just replaced fog lights 6 months ago and was ready to pull tires tires, lights and all good components to sell used. BTW, fog lights on the web from $150 - $190 for the pair for DIY. Quote from my Acura dealer $480 per pair with install extra.
Hows the car holding up? and yeah the fog assemblies are a little pricey, but as nice as they are, it's not too surprising. When I got my car, it had a hole in the fog light and I replaced it for $60 from amazon! less than 2 years later, same side got another hole in it, but I caught it pretty quickly. I made a custom replacement lens out of LEXAN Polycarbonate. It's just as clear as glass, but also 250 times stronger. Sealed the edges with some weatherproof silicone and it has held up perfectly!
Awesome video, I have a 2005 TL and one about a year ago I got that P0740 error code,,, it went away by itself, but I knew something was wrong and feared transmission problems, now I know what to do. Knowledge is power, thank you
It's a shame it took the community so long to find this solution, but I'm glad my video sparked the discovery of it! Glad my video was helpful!
I have 2006 TL, are the part numbers the same?
Just did this job today went famously thanks to this video still trying to leave me stranded but shifts much better pressure switches are next
Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching and glad my videos were helpful!
Just in case this doesn't work for anyone.. You may consider doing a AV6 swap .. You can goggle it ,but I was short on luck. my transmission shop was/is willing to do it but told me the donor transmission needs to be 20,000 - 45,000 miles. He said with all the V6 trannys up to 2010 are vunerable to slipping after 50-60,000 miles... The issue is still there. Some who did the swap are kinda still riding on luck. But it still worth a shot... I'm gonna still try but I can't find anything under 50,000 anywhere.. But I think it's due to them still being used and possibly rebuilt. But this video is working for me so far after 1 drain & fill .
I have a 2000 acura tl i just replaced the trans with a used one.it had a similar problem shifting into 3rd gear.i watch your video last night today i did exactly like you did in you video.the bottom selonoid filter was completly clogged with friction material cleaned with throddle body cleaner.test drove it a few miles and it seems to be much smoother ride.great video very informative.thankyou for your help i will subscribe to your channel.thanx again.
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear this helped you! Thanks for the sub!!
My co-worker has a car with transmission issues on their TL and the repair shop was claiming $2500 to fix (about to call and confirm that it really is the solenoids since her son took it in). Even if we were to replace just the solenoids, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much (found them on RockAuto for ~$150 a piece). Heck, they bought the car for only $3200. I'm down to saving them some $ even if I spend an hour or two to do it myself.
Yah it is a relatively easy job to do. Just a lot of parts to remove first. When I first initially called a transmission shop, they weren't even willing to try and find a solution, but rather just quoted me about $2500 to rebuild the transmission. I said screw that and ended up discovering and fixing the issue myself. I can't guarantee you this will fix your problems, but it has helped most people. Good luck!
Thank you for these videos! Although we dont have the same engine we do have the same transmission (2003 honda pilot here that had the oil jet recall over the fill bolt as well...did not know why I couldnt find the fill bolt until I watched your other video! 😂 I filled through the dipstick tube like you do) so your help on these things is very much appreciated! 👍👍😊😊
You're very welcome! Glad my videos could help!
my 02 Acura cl died on me when it hit 130k - i replaced it with 06 odyssey transmission - direct fit. no issues ever since. For cheap replacement solenoids - get it from local junk yard - check their odyssey parts
i jist read about those 98 to 2003 hondas and acuras. one person changed there trans five times. sucks becaise my buddy wants to sell me.an 01
It would have been helpful to know you can accidentally blow the screen out of the tube and lose it. I lost two. Guess that's why it's better to clean with a spray than compressed air.
Robert Hosking oh no 🤦🏻♂️ that Sucks!
Yep I wish he showed how he cleans them because I doubt he just put in the tube and sprayed with full force
Makes sense! I will do this tomorrow i will keep this in mind!!
What spray did you use to remove the gunk?
Most common mistakes made by mechanic technicians is that they mis diagnose the problem and rebuild the whole unit; when it could be a small part that's is wrong! Heat is the enemy of transmissions, most of the time on high mile vehicles it's the shift solenoids that get dirty and cause shifting problems. not all trans are the same in design just like not all transmission builders are any good especially when they rather rebuild than diagnose a common sense problem, nice vid...
Thanks! Yes heat is definitely a problem, which is exactly why this vehicle had a transmission recall to get an oil jet installed. Initially before I figured this solenoid solution out, nobody wanted to diagnose my transmission and just straight up quoted me thousands of dollars to do a rebuild. I hope more people can learn about this relatively simple fix to avoid wasting thousands.
Incin3ration so this fixed your transmission?? All that material in the screen is clutch material so it’s just a matter of time before the problem returns
@@wendellgreenidge3362 did you not read it said about 100k plus miles later that the car is still running fine?
I did this procedure on a 2001 Honda Odyssey last weekend. Thanks for the helpful video.
+ppett1 Did it help with the problem?
yes
What was your odyssey doing? We were cruising down the highway and it just stopped shifting and wouldn't even rev up. We thought the whole transmission was messed up so we towed it back to the house and then a few weeks later, my husband started it up and was able to drive it around the block. Were thinking that this screen is the problem
So I have a 2003 Acura TL 3.2 Type S with 173,100 miles previously owned by one owner and well maintained. So I got a check engine light come up and read the code and it was P0740( Torque converter Solenoid). I was frightened, but I did my research on Google and UA-cam. Upon that, I stumbled across this video and I was like okay I have similar symptoms of transmission slipping a bit and having a hard time picking up on highway speeds. Also turning and hitting the gas at the same time was a problem. So I decided to do the exact same fix myself. The process was very simple but annoying. I recommend the universal ratchet it helps a lot. Oh I forgot to mention if you do plan on doing this do it on a flat surface because as I was removing the solenoid and the transmission fluid leaked a little to the side. In conclusion the top solenoid screens were clean, but the bottom solenoid screen/filter was very clogged with transmission gunk. I didnt have a air Compressor. So I bought a Computer cleaner can of Compressed air at Staples or office depot. So it did the job and cleaned it right up. After cleaning the screens on all the solenoids I put everything back together and now my transmission feels more responsive and no slips and ill update if anything persist. So far it feels good 👍 the process took about an hour.
That is very good to hear this worked for you! You can also use brake cleaner to clean out the screens as well. In some cases, I've heard of people having to clean the filters twice or even three times, but let's hope it's a one-and-done deal! I also know you said the previous owner took good care of the car, but just make sure the transmission fluid isn't brown, black, or giving off a burnt smell, and always use Honda DW-1. Best of luck to you!
@@badluckbryan this is exactly what i’m currently dealing with.
did you buy chance have a leak? i was told at the oils hop i had a leak a small one though. do you think just cleaning the screens/filters helped? and in addition, did you drain ( and/or) flush the trans fluid? i went to autozone got the same code and that was one of the results that was given on the paper. as well as changing shift solenoids.
There was NOTHING decent about that air filter 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great video easy to follow along. Thanks for sharing.
Yah decent probably wasn’t the best word haha glad it was helpful otherwise, thanks for watching!
Damn lol i was thinking because its honda it would be easy…not saying it isnt but got to put some work and have patience. Thank you for this video!!
It's not the worst job in the world. You'll do great. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplemost definitely not but thanks to you it is now alot easier! I have 189k og miles. After i do this i will come back and let it be known if jt helped
Great 👍 content, just did it . Car is working in good shape , thank you 🙏
Awesome to hear this worked!!! Thanks for watching!
Does only the lower Solenoid, the one that’s held by 4 bolts, have a gasket? Or does the Top Solenoid have one, too? Thank you for making this Video! I now have the confidence needed to do the work myself on my ‘02 Acura TL. Your instructional videos save me Money 💵
Yeah the bottom one has an all in one gasket and filter. The top solenoid has three o-ring gaskets that go around the tube filters. I'm glad my video was helpful! Good luck to you!
I tried it, it worked! Thanks A LOT!
+pl cote Awesome bro! Glad everything worked out for you! Spread the word!
Thank you! This made q huge difference on my 2001 acura tl
Awesome! I'm glad it worked!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks, seriously. I any got the first three cleaned before I ran out of sunlight, and couldn't find the last one but I'm gonna look into it more next day off. Just cleaning these three made a huge difference and took the check engine light off
Hi Incin, totally awesome instructional video. Really well though out and I appreciate including initial pics and identifying a 2nd solenoid area towards the bottom. I have a 6th generation (98-02) Accord v6 and looking at my engine compartment it appears my transmission is set up the same. Would you be able to concur? I have 200k and started having intermittent shifting delays so I replaced my water pump and timing belt. Of course that was not the problem. I did a transmission fluid change but still have issue. When idling with brake on and shift through gears there is a definite jolt going from D4 to 2. Going back up seems the same when moving from 1 to 2. Sometimes there is a delay into second when starting from stoplight. However I also notice that if I'm heavy on the pedal shifting sometimes seems smoother. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Again thank you, Michael
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good you good teacher 👌👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you so much!
Did you reuse the face to face gaskets as well as the O ring type gasket. These gaskets are no available at the auto parts store. Great video
Yes, I reused the Solenoid Gaskets and the O-ring gaskets. If you lost one or need a new one, they are available on any Acura parts website under the section "AT Sensor - Solenoid."
Excellent information sir 👍
God bless you
you just save me 2800 $
Roman Tsekh I'm so glad it worked! I wish more people could know about this!
u just saved me $2000 !! Thank youuuuu
+Christian Serrano I'm so glad it worked for you!! You're welcome!!
Long story short... I did clean my screen filters on both solenoids yesterday .. Similar filters were clogged... I also changed my external filter..
It changes smoother but I got the rev up thing again after going uphill and unto a flat.. Thing is when I got the car in 2016 it was sitting for a years plus before so I don't know how the fluid looked or what.
My foolish mistake was taking it to Jiffy Lube..but the same symptoms happen even after their fluid change... What I'm very skeptical about is I asked if it was Honda fluid ,they replied it's an equivalent.. I never got around to doing a change because this was the only vehicle working in my home.. My hope is that a 3x3 drain and fill every 1000 miles will solve the rev up issue.. Because it could have been both old fluid,clogged filters and jiffy lube knock off fluid that still making this happen.
Will update after Honda fluid change tomorrow.
Yeah these transmissions very specifically require the Honda DW-1 ATF, and it very well could make a difference. And after a drive, park your car on a level surface, turn off the engine, and check the fluid level again. Having the ATF level slightly over/under filled can cause issues as well.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Okay so I did a drain and fill with DW-1 3 days ago.. Shifts are a bit smoother but I've had 3 times since that the rev up and won't go in gear thing happened. I'm wondering if the 6 or so quarts of Jiffy Lube crap fluid is overpowering the Honda one and heating up due to the expired quailty.
Do you feel by the next 2 drain and fills things should improve even more?
@@JJDRProductions There definitely is going to be left over jiffy lube fluid in your transmission after a single drain and fill. Our transmission actually holds about 9 quarts of fluid. So every time you drain and fill 3 quarts, you're only taking out 1/3 of the old fluid. So if you did it 2 more times for a total of 3 drain and fills, you will have removed about 75% of the jiffy fluid, which will definitely improve your transmission even more. It's good to hear things are improving though!
Tankyou very much for guid me🙋🙏
You’re welcome! I’m glad my video was helpful!
you my friend are awesome, thank you so much for the detailed process. I'm going to follow this step by step on my 01 Acura cl s-type and hope for the best. +1 sub
Good luck man! It sure has helped a lot of people so far! I'm confident it can help you too!
Should both solenoids need new gaskets after removing?? Thanks
I haven't replaced any of the gaskets or seals and everything still works perfectly!
Which way are the screens supposed to face? I’m having second thoughts now.
The screen indentations should be facing downward toward the solenoid!
What are some other options for cleaning them out if i dont have a compressor?
Brake cleaner is another good option!
This was well detailed. I have a 2003 RSX with the same symptoms on a rebuilt transmission with only 5k miles on it. I’m hoping it’s only the screens. The shop close a year ago. 😳
Solution pls :- My Honda bulldog 1999 D4 light always start to blink when the gear change to 3 or 4, but if i off the engine and start again it will stop but when it change to 3or 4 gear is start to blink again but my speedometer is not work, i need your advice on how to solve the issue
Do you have a check engine light code as well? That helps narrow down the problem as it could be a dozen different things
Hey man, great info. Hopefully this will fix my shift delays from 1-2 and 3-4 and my CEL (pressure solenoid failure), without having to totally replace the solenoids, on my ‘01 CL-S. Quick question: did you change the fluid before or after doing this? Trying to decide if it would be better to change the fluid before hand, to avoid having to clean gunk out of those screens again if I change fluid after...will be doing the 3x drain and fill and changing the external spin-on filter as well
If it's an option, yes, I would recommend changing the transmission fluid and spin-on filter first and cleaning the solenoid screen filters after. Of course, it requires the same disassembly to do both jobs, so you can get both done at the same time! Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks
wow 2017 and if the solenoids are good presto just saved 300+ in parts and took me about a good 2 and. a half hours later and what do you know trans shifts like my Infiniti smooth and fast I am going to do a drain and refill on trans fluid asap was brown and not 🍒 red will update with the progress but thinks again everyone kept telling me it was the trans but the trans was fairly new my lower one and two of the top ones were the culprit I didn't use air gun used some brake cleaner made them look brand new and of course cleaned the solenoids themselves along with area any other post I'll follow I thought I was gonna have to junk my 2003 beauty now just need to figure out blower motor and install fog and light bulb on driver's side and I'm done
I'm glad to hear it worked! Yah definitely change that fluid, could be an underlying cause for the clogged filters. Might I also recommend changing the ATF filter if that hasn't been done in a while. I actually just uploaded a video on how to do that if you need help.
Thanks!
You're very welcome! And Thank you so much!!
08 Civic 178k mi with no codes. I change the A/T fluid at about every 30k mi. Both part I took out had all screen very clean nothing at all.
If you’re still having transmission problems, you could perhaps try doing an ohm test on the solenoids. I’ve had plenty of people tell me changing the solenoids has fixed their problems.
Nice video, thank you!
Thank you!! Glad it was helpful! :)
he sounds like michael cera from "superbad" lol awesome video an thanks:))
lol Love that movie! and thank you! I'm glad it helped!
Yea I have a 1997 honda prelude an I have a p1773 code saying a/t clutch control solenoid b circuit malfunction....an I went to az they said that piece was 250$ as well an I hope I could clean it an take care of that problem as well but hopefully I can just replace one of the solenoids which a 50$ piece...
Yeah cleaning these filters has helped a lot of people! If it doesn't work and you buy another solenoid, I would highly advise not buying an aftermarket part. Go with OEM Genuine Honda. I agree $250 is steep, so maybe you could find a used one at a junkyard or ebay. If you need help finding a part # let me know.
Incin3ration thanks bro I appreciate it!! I actually did what you said in the video I took apart the solenoid a an b an sprayed them with carberator cleaner an reassembled everything left positive termimal on batt off for 30sec to reset cel..an so far so good no light or malfunctions:)))))))))) only thing now is to fix my ignition switch...apperently the ignition switch has a recall on it causing the car to stall....so waiting on Honda to repair the problem...free of charge of course:)))
+universal alma mater awesome man!!! I'm really glad to hear it worked!!!
Would this cause my car to shift rough in certain gears
This solenoid affects all gears. There are, however, oil pressure switches that affect certain gears. You can check out my other video for more information on that! ua-cam.com/video/_I8zfFmVZZI/v-deo.html
hey i could really use your help I'm having big problems with me 2002 acura tl type s 150k miles i bought it a month ago it was driving fine only prob was if i didn't warm it up the car would just go into neutral wile i was driving randomly but i would just turn the car off and on and it wouldn't happen again but as long as i warmed the car up nothing happened , i put in a bottle of lucas stop slip because people on message boards said it work and it did for 1 day the car ran perfect then all the sudden on the highway it just started going crazy so i drained the fluid and added 4 qt. of new tranny fluid and the car ran good again for 1 day but now again the car has p0720 and p0730 code the car will go into d5 drive for 20 seconds and then neutral out again so i have to turn it off let it sit and again drives for 20 seconds and neutrals out again , took it to the shop he said i need to rebuild the transmission but i really don't have the money to rebuild so i wanted to see if theres any advice you can give me on something i can do to get this car running again
Interesting, when I was having my transmission problems, it would run fine when cold, but when it warmed up, then it started having problems.
Personally, I wouldn't have put the Lucas in at all. All it does is make your ATF thicker which isn't good for this car which already has transmission flow problems, hence the oil jet recall. On top of that, these solenoid screen filters and the exterior ATF filter both of which most people don't think about can actually get clogged over time, and then trying to run thick fluid through those clogged filters won't help anything. Not criticizing you, just letting you know why you should avoid it in the future.
P0720 is a "faulty speed sensor" CEL code, which can be caused by your transmission problems. P0730 is a "faulty shift control system" CEL code. This code can be caused by improper maintenance of your ATF or a faulty solenoid.
So start with these things: did you clean these solenoid screen filters yet? How's the electrical current in the solenoids? When was the last time your exterior ATF filter was changed? How does your ATF look? Bright red, dark red, brown, or black? Where's your ATF level at? If it's too high or too low, that can cause symptoms and possibly damage to your transmission. To check it, bring your car to full operating temperature, park your vehicle on a perfectly level surface, turn off the car, and check the ATF dipstick. Make sure you use authentic Honda DW-1 ATF fluid.
Nice vid
what were ur symptoms and did it help
Thanks! 1:49
Hey man any idea how to get off the top solinoid if its stuck? Have the bolts removed it wont move at all
I’ve ever heard of them getting stuck before, I guess don’t be afraid to use some muscle! Just try to remember to remove it mostly straight up so you don’t bend the little tubes inside it.
Hi Incin3ration,
I just bought a 2002 TL, and I've noticed that the third gear kinda jerks a little. a couple of times the car didn't shift into 3rd gear. DO you think cleaning the transmission solenoid would help?? thanks
+Fadi alsaidi It's very possible this could help. One thing is for sure, this won't hurt anything. Cleaner filters are better filters. I had that same problem, not being able to shift into third, then I'd have to bring it back down to second then third again, or put it in neutral and then back into drive. I'd say give it a go!
+Incin3ration
Thanks. wish me luck :)
+Fadi alsaidi Did it work?
+Joseph C. I don't know if it would have. I couldn't find a mechanic who is willing to do it, and I am definitely not mechanically inclined. I ended up rebuilding the transmission.
Thanks so much!!!!!
How is your transmission holding up after cleaning these filters?
John Salster Very well! This definitely fixed the problem. My last update was at about 1000 miles, I'd say it's been about 2000 miles now, and everything is running great!
how long did this take you?
Hey what did you use to take that gray clip off it just hard to pry apart on that metal
Yah those can definitely be difficult to remove. It’s been a long time, but it was probably just a standard pair of pliers. Maybe spray the metal with a little wd-40 to help get it off
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple i'd tried everything but could not remove it, and also those 6 bolts on the linear solieod iI got the last bolt and could not remove it I put PB blast on it and no bueno 🥲
So, I gave up til I can more time to put into it. Just don't want to brake anything more then I can't replace.
I sure missed my car speed. 🥲
By the way, I am a female doing this by self. I don't let just any Joe work on my vehicle.
are the filters all the same size for a base 3.2L? i checked acura part sites and they show them all the same length, but on honda sites for the same engine, they are all 3 different lengths.
They do vary in size depending on the exact year, make, and model. For the 2000-2003 base and Type-S TL's, all three filters are the same length (8x18 Pipe) as far as I'm aware. On the 99 TL, they're different lengths. I would recommend going off of what the Acura website says. I personally like acurapartsforless.com.
thank you
I have the error code for solenoid problem. I asked a mechanic and he said it could cost hundreds of dollars for just the parts. What do you think it would cost to ask a mechanic to take it apart and clean the filters like you did? I do not have the tools for taking apart components in an engine.
I can tell you this job can take a good 2 maybe 3 hours. So even if you took your car to a dealership where they charge like $110 per hour, it should still cost you less than $300. Obviously, if you take it to a local trusted mechanic, it'll cost even less.
Well I did this and the same screens were filthy unfortunately it still doesnt shift smoothly third gear being the worse.
well dirty screens in the first place show that something isn't right internally. Only other thing I can recommend off the top of my head is to check the condition of your ATF. Is it nice and red, or is it dark, brown, or black? Furthermore, when was the last time your exterior ATF filter was changed? Lastly, make sure your ATF level isn't too high or low. There's also the possibility the solenoids themselves are going bad, which is why I put the ohm test at the end. Also, try entering your CEL codes at autocodes.com. Good luck man.
Just did this for my 1999 TL, car is shifting great now and the check engine has not returned yet. Im still kina scared because I read up that P0740 means a dying transmission. But I don't know about that.
Awesome to hear! Yup the "Code of Death" as they call it. I can't help but wonder how many people spent thousands replacing their transmission when the problem was as simple as this!
I'm having my d5 flashing on 2001 mdx said my 2nd n 3rd gear problem and won't go into reverse when warm
yah give this a try jipsee1! definitely can't hurt anything! The car getting stuck in "neutral" when you try to change gears are normal symptoms. Cleaning the solenoids have fixed many peoples transmission!
thanks.. told needed 2nd 3rd gear and also won't reverse who heated up the d5 light flash after awhile of driving i have 2001mdx wit 150k...i owe 2k can't afford to pay for new transmission other than that runs great!!
Hey I have a question for my 2003 TL type S, my cars transmission is slipping and not shifting gears sometimes with the error code P1750. What do you recommend I replace?
The problem regarding that code involves the solenoid located on top of the transmission, which I removed at 10:35. If you have already ensured that the filters are clear of debris, the next step would be to replace the solenoid itself. The part number is 28250-P6H-024. It's an expensive part at $323 + shipping, but I would still highly recommend getting an OEM Genuine Honda part, not something aftermarket as I've heard of aftermarket solenoids not working properly. While you're at it, I would also recommend replacing your transmission fluid with Honda DW-1 if it looks dark or smells burnt. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks I’ll look that part up. This only occurs when I have been driving for around 15-20 mins when the engine is hot. The shifting will be really jerky and when I press the gas the car will not accelerate. Please let me know if that’s the right part, I just want to make sure
@@draginzen I looked it up in the Acura service repair manual to be sure, that's the part you'll need!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks, do you also think it could be the A/B solenoids or the clutch pressure switch 3rd to 4th?
Kevin Lau if you had 1 specific gear that had problems, maybe. But you seem to be having general overall slipping and shifting problems with a code that directly points you to the control solenoid that I mentioned before, in which case I wouldn’t start randomly throwing money at other parts hoping for the best.
what if i dont have an air gun to clean these filters? Would brake cleaner be sufficient?
Yes you can definitely use brake cleaner to clean out the filters as well.
i actually have two codes (P0740 and P0780). Should this fix take care of both codes? I also plan on doing a DIY transmission fluid flush.
I don't know about both codes. P0740 refers to the 2 TCC solenoids I cleaned in this video and cleaning the screen filters is the absolute best place to start. If you know your fluid is looking pretty bad and dark, as well as improper fluid level, that may very well be the underlying cause of your codes too. In which case, we can only hope the neglect hasn't caused too much damage. I would also recommend changing the exterior ATF filter while you're at it. If you do all this and you still have P0740, you'll probably need to change the solenoids themselves which are rather pricey. P0780 refers to a faulty shifting solenoid valve, and there are 4 of those. Just for reference, the part numbers for my car are 28400-P6H-013 & 28500-P6H-013. There are 2 of each. Maybe do an ohm test on those solenoids on your car to find which one is bad and possibly causing the other P0780 code.
I's so glad you answered my question I just posted today. I should have looked at other replies before asking. I can't wait to get my 2003 honda pilot back running. I'm have a friend watch this video it's great. thank you for your reply I'll let you know how it came out. Thank God for youtube.
I don't an air gun can I use a Q-tip to can it out or blow it out with a hair dryer, I understand it has a filter on one end of it. Can it be washed with warn water and then re-oiled. Thanks for this video it's very helpful i'm trying to figure away to do because I don't have that blower, if you can come up with something I'ed really appreciate it and thanks for your reply.
a lot of people have told me they use brake cleaner. You could definitely try that. Otherwise I suppose you could try shooting some water through it! Make sure you dry it though!
anybody know if the 3rd gen TL is similar?
Thank you so much for this video and the transmission filter/oil change, my 01 cl type s was having extremely hard shifting , sometimes 3rd wouldn't go into gear and sometimes 1st would lag into 2nd and be a very rough shift. Reverse would be a late and rough shift and so on and so on( at the same time learning how to drive without beating down my trans.) .still going to do a 2nd drain n fill because the bolt was literally covered with sludge and metal😭 the screen filters were so gunked up it took a while to clean them out and had to use a lil tissue and a coffee straw to remove some of the crusted gunk. SO AGAIN in 2020 🙏thank you so much for saving my transmission!
That’s awesome to hear it worked for you! I’m glad my videos could be helpful! Keep up with those transmission fluid changes and these cars will last a very long time!
2000 Acura TL, 270K MILES. Factory engine and transmission.I was experiencing severe shuttering at 30 mph... and some slippage.Did 3x tyranny flush/fill and changed external filter. Problem persisted.Tcc error codes on scan tool, so I took it to the garage and they said 'minimum 2500 repair.'I watched this video an cleaned the screens. On mine, the screen on the lower solenoid was blocked. Cleaned easily.BONUS.... I found that the chassis ground near the upper solenoid was corroded. I reattached the grounding terminal with solder... then put everything back together.RESULT:My 270,000 mile car that I bought at 197,000 miles runs like brand new again!!!!The grounding terminal fix seemed to clear up an issue that was throwing an evap canister error code that has been coming up for the past 30k miles. I would reset the code and it would just come back ten miles later. It has been 2000 miles since cleaning the solenoids... no evap canister codes and no tcc error codes.CONCLUSION:This little trick saved me at least 2500.00. THANK YOU.
That's awesome to hear! Gives me confidence my car will also make it that far without any issues! I got 3 years of college left and the last thing I need is a transmission replacement.
I'll have to double check that corroded chassis ground thing you mentioned because I currently have the evap canister code. Probably not the cause since the CEL would come on and off every time I filled the tank. But it wouldn't hurt to check.
You might consider installing an externally mounted transmission fluid filter (similar to: amzn.to/2ARMHKC) into your Acura as another form of preventative maintenance.
@@lothianmcadam1 the reason there is no fine filtering involved is because of HIGH FLOW RATES requirements... you don't want to starve the beast !!
johnny Macon my 2002 Honda Accord ex v6 coupe is slipping BADLY out of nowhere going from 1-2 when cold or not drivin much
Okay so after watching your video, I checked out my '02 Acura TL type S and it had the exact same issue. Great Vid!
Thanks man! I'm glad this helped you!
I encourage anyone who is having transmission problems to do this. I did this with NO problem. never done this an it was VERY simple. save ur self the cash. I used throttle body cleaner, and in a 2000 Acura TL their is no need to remove the air box.
I have a 2003 CL type s I just bought about a month ago, car ran perfect and was owned by older lady. Yesterday car started to do this. Will try this fix today, thank you!
Yo! Even 6 years later this video is still helping people man! Thank you so much!!!! I just picked up the same car for a cheese burger🍔 😂
You're very welcome! Never thought this video would help so many people when I first made it! Crazy!
I have seen very early signs of shifting trouble, I'm gonna do this next weekend and see if I see a difference! I too have an 02 TL-S, I will post results
So what are the results??
I watched your video and worked on my 2003 Acura TL-S; perfect instructions; hope it solve the problem. Many thanks. sk
+Sidney Kahn Did it help with the problem?
+Joseph C it does; the code p1750 went away, but I plan to replace the solenoid later; got good price on t; thanks
My wife has the same car. After following video, warning lights out and shifts as smooth as new. Hope it holds.
Glad to hear this worked for all of you!
I am very impressed by your diagnosis and willingness to tackle a project like this without formal training. Nice work. Btw clean your area surrounding valve bodies, etc before removal so contaminant aren't introduced. Thumbs up
Good tip!! and thank you!!
it didnt work for me, they where clean , still worth a try good luck
Chulo_da9 G did you end up replacing the solenoids? Mine were clean too
What codes were you getting?
@@BCHbull what codes are you getting?
Hey guys were you getting codes P0740? If cleaning didnt help it may be time for new soldenoids. Will order new ones if this fix doesnt work.
Ive been having the same problems with my 01 accord, sometimes it wouldn’t even shift while revving. Thank you, you saved me lots of money from buying a new transmission
I'm glad this video was helpful!!!
Yo, you're the man! (self employed mechanic/motorcycles-bikes-cars) I've been working on a customer's 1997 Acura CL 3.0 Base Coupe 123,000 miles w/ several - random transmission problems: AutoZone told the owner that the engine code reader reported a faulty "Main shaft speed sensor" so I replaced that, drained 3 quarts of trans fluid via the drain plug, removed the fill plug put in three quarts of New HONDA SPECIFIC - ATF-DW1 - Which REPLACES HONDA'S REQUIRED ATF-Z1 FLUID. After installing a new drain plug washer/drain plug (w/ 3/8th inch drive extension) three quarts of DW-1 fluid and the new sensor (on the back side of trans/has only two attaching bolts and a tiny/ approx. one inch drive shaft that connects it w/ the trans.). After completing that work & no warning lights illuminated, I test drive the car and it slips horribly in all forward gears or won't move forward at all....I saw your video, cleaned the screens and IT WORKS PERFECTLY NOW! You saved my butt and made me a few more bucks, thank you-Very cool.
It amazing how something so simple can cause such a big problem! Not to mention it's cost free to do and anybody can do it! I'm glad this helped you!
What I recommend to everyone who gonna do this job, buy new solenoid gaskets and small rubber seals.
These bits are cheap and worth to replace especially if car is older than 10 years
Happen to have a link to buy them ?
This fix works great, we have 2001 Honda Accord EX V6. Part Numbers and suggested bolt replacement.
I suggest replacing at least the two rear bolts with Allen Head Bolts for replacement ease., the Bolts # 81673 are Metric 6mm X 25mm and Flats#87926 6mm metric flat
3 "O-Rings", Honda OEM Part# 91301PC9003 O-Ring 7.7 X 2.3 "Google it"
The Gasket OEM Part# is 28252-PAX--000.
The Complete Solenoid Assembly OEM Part # 28250-P6H-024.
Thank you so much took me about two hours all I had to remove was the battery, battery tray and battery tray support and those clips shown in the video, and of course the solenoid top itself. Problem with my 2002 Acura Tl Type S with 93K miles. I had hard shifting, not going into gear, super hard shift going into reverse. Engine codes: P0700(A/T System Malfunction) Transmission Codes: P1750(Clutch Pressure Failure), P1751(2-3 Shift Malfunction). I cleaned the screens with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and then blew with compressed air. I also changed out the transmission fluid and filter.
Did that fix it?
I thought my 2000 TL transmission was toast until I found this video. I am the original owner and the car only has 73K on it. I had the trans serviced at the factory suggested 50K which I have found out from you and now others is not nearly often enough. It had been shifting a little weird for a couple of months and then the shifting went wild. The ATF was full. Between gears it was like a stick shift on steroids. Going any gear, when it came time to upshift, the engine completely disengaged from the transmission. The engine would rev from loosing engagement and then the transmission would SLAM into the next gear. I thought for sure I would have broken motor mounts on top of the transmission issues. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I cleaned the four solenoid filters as you suggested. I also put in a new transmission filter, drained the ATF and refilled. The trans hasn't worked this well in years.
Love hearing stories like this! Glad my video was helpful! Amazing what a couple tiny filters can do!
I use seafoam trans tune and did the same work . Its amazing everybody thinks that the transmision are bad or something like that and everything is clogged like those solenoid screens
Exactly! Wish more people knew about this simple solution!
Awsome videos bro! When is your birthday I’m gonna try to get followers to pitch in to get you some king of camara/phone stand or something to help u out. Hey at least you know if you were to ever to lose a arm “let’s hope not” you would have no issues working on cars. Great video brother.
Thank you! Glad you have been enjoying my videos!
lol true! Filming would be a bit more difficult though haha That's very generous of you! My birthday isn't for a while, unfortunately. I have gotten a nice iPhone camera stand since making this video, hoping to get a microphone as my next upgrade!
If you ever break a solenoid, (ask me how I know), go to a junkyard pick and pull and it will only be like 20 dollars
Auto Outlet that is true! I guess my main concern is if you do that, you’d be putting a used 15 year old solenoid back on your vehicle. But I suppose it depends on how much money you want to put in the car and/or how long you plan on keeping it.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yea definitely, luckily Honda parts are super reliable so they are usually still straight to use. Definitely better paying 10-20 dollars than 300 dollars
this channel is so awesome man. literally not able to find any helpful maintenance videos on the ua5
Thanks again!!!
Before taking all that crap out of your engine bay try 10 oz of Sea Foam Trans Tune down the dip stick tube. Drive it for 300 miles then change the Transmission fluid. It worked for me. The code cleared and it's shifting smooth. Sea foam desolved all the sludge that was built-up in the sensor screens and other parts of the transmission.
hmmm interesting! I'll look into it, thanks!
Do 2009 Acura tl sh-awd have this part that’s outside the transmission ?? Also 300 rpm surges. Please help
170k miles was running perfect then random p0704 code which i cleared then noticed slipping couple days later and got to the point today where car just wouldn’t move when in gear just rev or take a long time to shift to the gear and be able to move. Did a 3.5 quart drain and fill with new filter and had grayish peanut butter texture on the drain bolt magnet with pretty burnt fluid but definitely not the worst .checked both solenoids today and to my surprise they were both spotless should i try changing the whole solenoids themselves or lost cause ??? also got code p0703 today the 0704 hasn’t came back and p0703 cleared when i disconnected battery to perform this but still slips on heavy throttle and im guessing it’ll still do the standstill/harsh random downshifts . any info or lost cause???
I have a couple comments to make:
1. You said your ATF is pretty burnt. If the fluid is still looking bad after doing the drain and fill, it could be beneficial to do another one.
2. Clearing the CEL codes, whether it's with an OBD-II scanner or disconnecting the battery, that won't make the problem go away, and it's very possible p0740 could still be a relevant code, but the system hasn't had enough time to trigger it again because the system keeps getting reset.
3. The dual-linear solenoid is related to both p0730 and p0740 and has caused people issues in the past where replacing it was the solution. I would not recommend after-market solenoids as those have given people problems and were a waste of money. If you love this car and plan on keeping it for a while, I would recommend spending the $400 on a new one. Otherwise, you could try going to a junkyard or getting a used one on eBay for $50.
last question, these are your shift solenoids correct? the autozone paper you receive after getting a code tells me P0740 and suggested job is to replace shift solenoids , and drain(and/or) flush transmission fluid. did you clean the screens so you would have to replace any parts?
@@daeveonnash2368 these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody.
Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.
Thanks so much for making the video! I've got an Acura TL 2002- getting the P0740 code for Torque Converter Clutch Circuit and several sites recommended replacing the $250+ Solenoid but first I'll try cleaning them as you most excellently demonstrated!! Thanks again!
You are very welcome! Yes cleaning these tiny filters can definitely make a worlds difference! Otherwise, replacing the solenoid is still a lot better than spending thousands on a new/rebuilt transmission. Good luck!
I couldn’t get the Stubborn Bolts loose when I was trying to remove the Battery Plate. They were on Very Tight! Did you have trouble removing those Bolts holding the Battery Plate?
Yeah some of them can be stubborn, especially if they've never been removed before in the last 16 years. I use my biggest ratchet and longest extension to remove them. Maybe try an impact drill?
Incin3ration okay I will try a longer extension on my Ratchet. Hopefully that and some WD-40 on the bolts will loosen them up.
10:25 where he got to solinoid pieces
Saving this location cause it’s where I’m currently at on mine
So i did this. My car shifted smoothly on the 3rd but then hesitated on 4th and then when slowing down around 20mph it would jerk/shake
Do you have any check engine light codes? If not, when was the last time you changed your transmission fluid? It’s vital to keep the fluid clean and at the proper level in these cars. If your fluid is dirty, there’s a chance they might need to be cleaned again. I might also recommend checking out my pressure switch video. Those are known to go bad over time and need replacing. Sounds like you might need to change both the 3rd and 4th gear switches.
No codes but had trouble shifting into third sometimes (slip, hard shift), and all gears had a similar but less prominent problem. Center filter was pretty clogged on the top solenoid screen set, and the bottom one was also pretty clogged. Cleaned them out with a q tip and mineral spirits (no air gun...) and transmission runs like new! Thank you so much for this video!!!
Awesome!! Glad to hear it worked!!
Check transmission fluid it meant have fluid
your voice remind me of a kid in the movie overboard, watch it, is romantic comedy !!
Hey man I opened mine up and only saw 1 filter tube.. I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. You have 3 but I only have one
it is possible that our transmissions are built slightly differently. In which case the same principle still applies, just clean all the screen filters. Otherwise, make sure the filter tubes didn't simply stay in the transmission when removing the solenoid.
I have a 2005 Acura tl with the same issue but it has a p0721 and p0722 code but I already replaced the sensor that it says it is but still has the same problem any help?
So just to confirm, you replaced the Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor? PN: 28810-PPW-013. Otherwise, make sure your ATF is clean and not over/underfilled using Honda DW-1, as well as clean these screen filters. Sometimes the solenoid can go bad without triggering a code. Do the ohm test, and perhaps consider replacing the upper solenoid with the 3 screen filters. You can find good deals on ebay and junkyards.
Hi, thanks for the video . I did this on my accord 2003 V6, but it keeps getting clogged. Any Advice??
How clean is the transmission fluid? The stuff clogging up the screen filters is clutch material. I would recommend doing a transmission drain and fill. Also when was the last time your exterior transmission filter was changed? Doing that would definitely clean up the fluid a lot as well. Just make sure to use Honda DW-1 and an OEM Honda filter. The filter is a bit expensive but worth it. Check out my video on how to do it!
ua-cam.com/video/SjYVD2WCrCM/v-deo.html
Do I need to spray any penetrating fluid on the bolts before trying to remove them?
I didn't, they came off relatively easy. Once you crack them loose, you can loosen the bolts the rest of the way off by hand.
Thank you sir! Video helped heal my TLS 2003. P0740
Photos from the central filter solenoid control a, b, c: (28250-P6H-024, 28250-P7W-003) 100% true.
Mileage 106K
Ukraine, Kiev
Alexander
You're very welcome!! I'm glad it worked!!
lucky you👍🏻
I have Code P0740 and P0730 . Would cleaning these help with both codes?
Yes absolutely!
Is this good to do for preventative maintenance? I have 07 Type S , 246k miles. No tranny issues but i want it to last.
Wow 246k that’s awesome, keep up the great work! It certainly won’t hurt anything to check and be safe! But unless you’re experiencing problems, you’re unlikely to find any gunk built up in the screen filters. Best preventative maintenance is to do an ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thats one thing i slacked on was tranny fluid changes. Kinda scared to change it now. I may send a sample to blackstone and see if they think its ok to change
i got an 05 tl with the same problems u described with no cheack egine at 151xxx deffent ganna try this il keep u posted
any luck?
Thanks so much. It was well worth everyone's time. 👌
This is probably what’s wrong with mine cause when the dash cluster went out it drove good
Cleaning these little filters has saved thousands of peoples transmission, give it a try! Good luck and thanks for watching!
What if I lost my filter for the solenoid I tried looking up if I could buy it but I can’t find it
They’re definitely available for purchase. Go to a Honda/Acura parts website, enter your vehicle, select transmission, then something along the line of “sensor - solenoid.” You could also give my your vehicle year make model and I’ll see if I can help