This is the only video I seen with people post how their acuras are up and running and makes me happy that all the work I did on it and how the moment a problem occured I fixed it right away is not going to waste
bro...your videos are fantastic. I'm an amateur at home mechanic who recently just did his first successful timing belt, waterpump, bearing, belts, and pulleys replacement. Your videos have now given me the confidence to work on my transmission! Thank you!!
Bro for refilling mine. I have a tiny funnel that fits in the dipstick tube. And then I take my long funnel and pour through it into the tiny funnel. Took me a couple of minutes to pour 3 quarts this way.
Have a 2003 Pilot that I am about to replace this filter as I'm sure it has never been replaced at 180K. Very good advice to anyone who wants to make these fragile Honda Transmissions last. Took me quite a while to realize there was even a filter on these transmissions as as you state. There is no mention in the owners manual or service manual. Love living in the Pacific NW. All my bolts and brackets under hood are like brand new. Zero corrosion unlike yours. Used to live in the rust belt. Hate the salt. Nice Video!
I own a 2001 CL S-Type with around 115,000 miles. I'm doing everything suggested in your videos for the trans and concur with the previous commentators that they are the best thing out there. So, my ATF fill plug is not encumbered in any way. There is, to the right of that, what looks like a valve with an electrical connector that has three wires coming out of it that are green, blue and orange. I can see no blue bolt as mentioned in another post. The dealer says all recalls on this car have been addressed, but this is the same dealer who doesn't change the filter when changing the ATF and didn't replace the water pump when I had the timing belt changed at the 105,000-mile scheduled service. I'm pretty much doing my own maintenance now, thanks to your comprehensive videos, but I'm still curious about the thing next to the ATF fill plug. Thanks for being there.
@Incin3ration Alright, that sounds reasonable to me. I'm changing the filter now and whoever did it last switched the long and short bracket bolts. Well, at least it got changed once in the last 100, 000 miles. I'm putting in an aftermarket filter for a tank or two of gas, then doing it all over with the OE filter. Thanks for the prompt response. You're a good guy. I wish I lived next door to you.
@@jamo27jj yeah get that OEM filter in as soon as you can. I had a bad experience utilizing an aftermarket ATF filter. And thanks again! Hope everything goes smoothly
Truly remarkable video... one of the best I’ve seen on UA-cam (and I’ve seen thousands of instructional videos covering all sorts of things). You really cover everything, in perfect detail. You would be a great teacher or professor... you have an empathy for your viewer’s mind. Very, very impressive (from a highly regarded university professor myself). Thank you for your effort!
Thank you very much! That means a lot coming from a professor such as yourself as I always looked up to my instructors throughout college as inspiration to become the best person I can be. I almost went to school to become a teacher but pursued a very enjoyable career in the medical field. I'm thankful for youtube and the opportunity to make quality automotive instructional videos as a side hobby and give back to the community. I'm very glad you enjoyed my video!
Well I did both the solenoid screen cleaning and the TF change... thank you so much for your guidance! We love our ‘03 TL-S and it was starting to stutter on shifts, especially from a stop. So far so good... seems buttery smooth, and our car never had the recall thing done... it’s virgin 👼🏻 It was harder than I expected... or perhaps I’m older than I realize. Either way, a 6-7 on difficulty... at least to do both the screens and the filter/fluid change... my hamstrings were hollerin the next day from all the bending over. Gotta have the tools and patience... and the radio code (disconnecting the battery will kill your radio, but google and you’ll find a number... very kind and capable Acura help. Thank you again sir... wish I could shake your hand and buy you a.beer. You are a genuine person.
@@bighgnoz5189 Thanks for following up! I'm really glad to hear this helped fix your shuttering problems! I'm also proud of you for tackling this job! Good reminder about the radio code, I gotta remember to include that part in my videos anytime I disconnect the battery. bigh gnoz is right, it can be a long job for some the first time trying this, but after you do it once, you'll know the layout of your vehicle better, remember which tools you'll need, and it'll be so much easier after that. I remember this taking me quite some time my first attempt as well, but now I can do this job in under 2 hours! Thanks again and you're welcome! Very glad things worked out so well for you!
Thanks so much!.Your videos helped me so much today It's my wife's car and it's a 2002 Acura TL with a 3.2 l in it and she loves the car so much she won't let me buy her a new one but it does have my transmission problem so your video helped me so much just on eliminating issues that could be there but I found none. I'm a pretty handy guy but you gave me the confidence to tackle this job and all the tools I needed and that's really appreciated! Now that I have checked the two sensors with the screens in them and changed the Third sensor for the transmission hopefully I can eliminate the code because the car runs so beautifully! The code is P0710- transmission fluid temperature sensor a circuit You have saved us a lot of money because now I can bring it to a mechanic and tell him l I have eliminated things that he said he would start to eliminate Thanks again very much for a very informative video good job and please keep it up
My wife loves this car so much as well! But it’s a very masculine car... so strange. A great car... a luxury accord that sells for $3-5k less that a regular accord. Crazy.
Thank you! Yeah nobody would ever guess this car has 253k miles. Just gotta keep it clean, waxed, and keep that salt off! I also use one of those garden oscillating sprinklers that attaches to a hose and use that to wash under the car, works really well! If you have snowy salty roads like I do, a good tip I have is to knock off any snow that may stick inside the wheel wells and under the side skirts because it contains salt, and you don't want that slowly melting on your car. Lastly, if you ever spot any rust, get some touch-up paint and cover it up ASAP to prevent it from spreading.
good tip about cleaning under the car I am going to start doing that. Tiny bit of rust under my rear wheel well but I have touched it up with paint you can't even see it now.
@@charlesescarria3726 thank you! It’s such a beautiful color, im surprised it’s not more popular. But then again, you do usually need the a-spec or type s model to get it
03 Acura Cl no S, owned for coming up on 15 years and would love to keep and maintain my boy Blu for another 15 or forever as long I am around. I'm new to your videos and I appreciate how knowledgeable you are and youre ability to easily articulate in great detail a step by step guide to fixing this or that dohickie but with actually needed parts numbers, amounts of quarts [5] ,personal recommendation of said parts, tools needed , tips and tricks to issues you will sure encounter when taking on being your own mechanic hits a brick wall and isn't as easy as seen on some UA-cam tutorials make it appear to be. Thank you for the time you've donated to me , us and my journey with blu 42 I'll be checking back with your channel ,with or without an issue I'm going to fix and hopefully more upgrades I'd like to have time and money to get to. Sorry I know thats a lot and here's a lil more. Im trying to type S my non S , I know the interiors door panels , gauges ,shifter, floormats are easy to identify, isnt it the ecu , intake manifold {3.5L will fit but will the 3.7] ,and camshaft the added hp the base model is missing? I've been looking for a donor Cl-s from junkyards and theres more 2014 15 16 and newer from anyone of these manufacturers Mercedes ,BMW ,or Audi , unwrecked then 2gen CL RL TL combined and sometimes add in the 3rd gens and its still less. Alright thats enough from me . for now Thanks again. And some newer parts Ive noticed are starting to becoming discontinued as well . m90 supercharger upgrade video please .thats all folks.
Thank you so much for all the kind words! I'm glad I'm able to help lots of people fix their car including you! Unfortunately, engine swapping is something that I have never looked into or know anything about. Your best bet is to look up info on Acurazine and Acuraworld. Sorry I can't be of any help there. Sounds like it will be a fun upgrade though, good luck!
Hi. I love this video! You support all the DIYers learn new, liberating skills! I just wanted to point out: It looks like the is no ground attached, just above the atf filter when you remove it. If you already know, then cool. Again, thank you for your help!
Thank you! We’ll see, I’m really interested in the RLX if I had to choose a new car to buy right now. I’ll be driving this car until it dies which at this rate probably won’t be for a while.
So My 2002 Acura TL Type-S didn’t have the oil jet kit on the transmission 🤔 So what does that mean? (Do I have the original trans or remanufacture unit) 7:12
it most likely means you have a replaced post-2005 production transmission with an internal oil jet recall and you should have nothing to worry about! Just keep up with those ATF fluid changes every 15000 miles and these transmissions will last you a very long time!
I’m surprised they didn’t do a VIN check to ensure it would fit on your car. Otherwise, there’s no reason anybody should need to buy the oil jet. It was a recall meaning Acura/Honda has to replace it for free. If you did still need it, you would be getting notifications in the mail, similar to that airbag recalls. They also redesigned the transmission, so anybody that had a transmission replaced after 2005 has an updated version that doesn’t require the oil jet.
I had to go to the dealership to have the steering wheel recall done on my 02 type s. While in there i asked about my transmission and they told me it was replaced in 2007 by Acura. Hoping its the reason im still going strong. Plan on keeping it that way. I dont know what transmission they put it. I wondered why i didn't have a oil jet where the plug is
They eventually fixed the transmission issues, so every transmission replaced in an Acura won’t need the oil jet. If you do have the oil jet, that means you probably have the original transmission
This video has me thinking about all the money I wasted getting a rebuild on my last Acura. Quick question: My 03 tl has a slight jerk when I take it out of park. I and going to changed the fluid and filter but should I clean the solenoid just in case even though the check engine light is not on? And typically what areas should I check first if I have a transmission-fluid leak? Thanks
Clean transmission fluid and replacing those filters certainly is the key to keeping these transmissions going! And I would recommend cleaning the solenoids, it’s free and easy to do, plus it can only do good for your car! As far as leaks go, it could be the transmission oil pan gasket, the rear main seal on the transmission, or an axle shaft seal.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks a lot will do. I’ve saw someone point out that they’re 4 solenoids on the trany (2 upper and lower). Do you think all 4 need to be clean or just the 2 u took off in the video? Was just curious after watching some post a video
Alpha Saiyan good eye! I did in fact replace it after making this video! And congrats! Keep up with those fluid changes and this car will last a very long time!!
Jose Argueta thank you! I’m glad it was helpful! And thanks for the video request! However, unlike the 1st generation TL’s, the 2nd generation doesn’t have a separate differential fluid change process. This is accomplished simply by changing the ATF as shown in this video, very convenient!
I changed the Transmission Fluid today in my ‘02 Acura TL, and I noticed that I didn’t have the Oil Jet recall on top of the 17mm Transmission Fill Bolt.
Is there a blue bolt there? If so that means the transmission has been replaced before and that you have a post 2005 production transmission and you shouldn't have to worry.
@@georgedoughly6344 well your car has made it this far! If you're worried about it, you could probably still get the recall done. Has to be done at an Acura dealership though.
Incin3ration okay 👍 yeah my ‘02 Acura TL has 150,000 Miles on it, and it runs and performs excellent. I changed the transmission fluid a few days ago, and I changed the transmission Filter today. It shifts smoothly. I cleaned the EGR ports and EGR Valve, and cleaned the throttle body. I will call My Local Acura dealership and see what they say about getting the Oil Jet recall done. The one thing I worry about my Acura is the Timing Belt. I can’t do the job myself and every Shop wants $1,000 bucks or more to do it.
I called my Local Acura dealer, and they said that there wasn’t an open recall on my car for the oil jet recall. I think my car will be fine without it, LORD Willing 🤞🏻
Does the 1999 Acura TL with the 3.2 even have a transmission filter? I am having trouble finding an equivalent part for my year on the sight your using. Has anybody with a 99 done this fix?
Hmmm, I can't find where I mentioned it costing only $8.42. I did mention a bunch of information on the filter between 1:53 - 5:08. Got it on acurapartsforless.com. Part # is 25450-P7W-003. Price seems to have gone up over the last year, filter is roughly $52 plus shipping. Link in the description. You also might be able to find a good deal on Amazon, so try checking there too!
Do you think doing this will help my car? I have a 2002 TL with a 2008 TL tranny that was put in by the Acura dealer about 15 years ago, and it worked beautifully all these years. But recently, the transmission started slipping in a major way. About 9 months ago, I was driving down the highway, and the transmission just slipped out of gear. I pushed the accelerator down, and it just acted like it was in neutral. The engine just revved. So I figured it might be just that one gear. So I shifted down. It was in gear for 5 to 10 seconds, and then slipped. I kept downshifting thinking it might just be certain gears. But all of the gears seemed to be having issues. I was able to get it off the highway. I did have to stop at a light, and then I was able to drive the car a little bit more. But when I had to go up a hill, it started slipping a lot. So I just pulled over and had it towed. It’s been sitting for the past 9 months. I recently revived it, bc I was going to sell it. But in the process of getting it ready for sale, I just thought I would try driving it up and down the driveway. I was able to drive it up and down the driveway about 10 times before it started slipping (maybe it slips when it heats up?). So based on what I just said, do you think it’s possible that I can just drain 3qt and fill the ATF, and have the car start working again like others have done? Do I need to change the filter as well? Or do you think it needs a solenoid? If so, which one? Or do you think the transmission needs replacing? I have never changed the transmission fluid since I bought the car in 2007 with 60k miles on it. It now has 161k miles on it. Btw, I did smell the transmission fluid right after the slipping event, and it did smell burnt. My mechanic said he had a customer who changed their transmission fluid, and the transmission died a week later, bc he had not changed the transmission fluid in a long time. But I think he had a ATF flush done as well. So maybe the pressure from the flush caused the tranny to go kaput. That’s why I never changed the ATF in my TL when my car was still working, bc I had not changed it since I bought the car, and based on what my mechanic said, I thought it might mess it up. But based on what I have been reading, it might be the fix I’m looking for. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
So it’s definitely a scam for any mechanic or dealership to try and scare you into not changing the ATF or saying it’s a “lifetime fluid”. A flush will definitely make it worse, but drain and fills are fine. You should definitely change the ATF right away, and yes, there’s a very good chance it could revive your transmission. I would even recommend doing 2 or even 3 drain-and-fills for that matter because of how bad the fluid is. I would recommend driving the car a few hundred miles if possible or at least as much as your able in between changes though. Cleaning the solenoid screen filters has been a big resolution for these cars as well. I made a separate video for that on my channel if you want to check it out too! ua-cam.com/video/ZbarS605YtE/v-deo.htmlsi=aP19rmj5eFYe7Un9
Hello again. I'm writing you today off topic again. As an fyi, the problem with my drivers front power window auto up and down button was a bad window module. Had to get a used one to replace it. Have you ever had to replace your rear wheel bearing hub? My passengers rear one went on the way home and I used a Timken bearing. It was an easy repair.
I’m glad you got your window fixed! And I have replaced a rear wheel bearing back when I needed to replace the knuckle. I also remember it being pretty easy!
Do you have the recall number for the oil jet recall that you spoke of. Acura is telling me the dont see that recall for my Vehicle. Mine is a 2002 tl type s like yours same color etc.
I know this is an old post but for anybody looking for the same additional information, I just found the NHTSA recall campaign number: 04V176000. repairpal.com/recall/04V176000
Do you know if you have to be the original owner of the car in order to receive the fix or if they are still performing the repair under this recall? Thank you
Does anyone know if the transmission filter is supposed to have a gasket with it? The filters I'm finding don't come with gaskets and I'm not sure how to locate one. According to autozone, it says there should be a gasket but the gasket does not come with the filter and AutoZone doesn't offer the gasket. That makes no sense to me. Do you have any suggestions on that??
The ATF filter should come with a gasket, just like a typical engine oil filter. I personally would recommend the OEM filter despite the intimidating price. I had a bad experience with an aftermarket ATF filter that literally degraded within a year and clogged up my solenoid screen filters. Per my recommendation, this filter only needs to be changed every 30k miles, so it will last you a long time.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you very much.I truly appreciate it. The video is so thorough.. I truly appreciate how you make the video so simple to follow and explanatory in a way that even someone who does not know much about cars can still follow it successfully. I am not sure where to buy OEM parts?
Should I be concerned with being over filled by about a 1/4 inch on the dipstick when it was done at a transmission shop? Car is a 1998 Honda Accord ED V6. By the way that's a great video. Surprised how tough to replace the filter..
Thank you! Hmmm interesting how they would let that happen. Make sure the transmission is at full operating temperature and the car is off. Also, it's very important to check the level on a flat level surface. Even a slight incline can change the level of reading quite a bit. Otherwise, if it's still over the full mark by a 1/4" like you said, it would be highly advisable to drain some of the fluid out. Overfilling can cause the ATF to foam and splash inside your transmission and cause problems. Yeah, the filter isn't the most convenient thing to replace. Not too bad after you've done it a couple times though.
Thank you for your prompt reply. Transmission was rebuilt in 2016 due to slippage and clunking when slowing down. When I took it back after a month for a check they added 250 mL of an additive. This gradually made the shifts worse again and the fluid turned black. I had 2 drain and fills done in June 2018 which helped and had the last one done once in Sept 2019. I told them there was a bad vibration at idle and when put in drive but they couldn't do anything. Also last month when I was having the timing belt replaced another shop found a broken motor mount. With this replaced the vibration decreased to a tolerable level but when warming it still shifts with a slight thud. This might be the best it is going to get. I'll recheck the level as they added 4 liters to refill and seemed rushed. Other than that the best car, now 21 years old I've ever owned.
@@richardmorse8408 You'd be amazed how much of a difference clean fluid, proper level of the fluid, as well as using Honda DW-1 instead of aftermarket fluid makes. No regular shop will ever use Honda fluids, only the dealer does. Make sure those three things are correct and you very well may notice a difference!
Incin3ration Thanks for your follow up. I totally agree with with that advice. I've been wondering whether they actually used Honda fluid since they have it in bulk and pump it in with a hose. On any fluid change I do I use genuine fluids and parts where possible. I was very surprised after the transmission rebuild in 2016 that they put in an additive of around 250 mL which is not recommended by Honda. In fact the fluid gradually turned very dark and the shift quality became poor. Might have to go to the Dealer.
Yes, you were right. I dropped by the transmission shop this morning and learned they use aftermarket fluid. He also told me it's a myth that having the transmission overfilled by 3/8" will cause any problems. I remember that after it was rebuilt in 2016 the fluid went black and the shift quality was appalling. I'm making an appointment with the Honda Dealer tomorrow.
Thank you for posting an excellent video. Appreciate your work. One question, did you have to prefill the new filter before installing to avoid airlock? And is airlock and issue? Thank you again. Have productive day.
I have a 2003 Acura 3.2 TL. I was thinking, why not wait until after the second drain and fill to replace the filter. That way the new filter has cleaner fluid in it and less particulate in it when the process is done. What's your thoughts Incin3ration?
That sounds like a good idea to wait until after the 2nd fill to replace the filter. I would also wait maybe a couple hundred miles in between each drain and fill so you don’t shock the system with all that new fluid at once, and you’re golden!
That is another good option for the first method I showed with the yorker sprout cap! I personally like to put the dirty fluid back in the bottles though. Hope you enjoyed my video!
I also have a 2003 TL (base) and although this does not pertain specifically to the subject of this video I wanted to comment anyways as I've grown tired of sifting through all the noise on forums. I was lucky enough to have my factory transmission make it to 200K before needing a rebuild but after putting another 50K on it I've begun to run into some issues. It seems the transmission is no engaging 3rd gear on a 2-3 shift or on during throttle application after coasting in 3rd. This doesn't happen constantly but it happens in single instances once or twice a week (early enough to where i hope it is more a symptom than a problem). I've done plenty of research on this transmission and the countless number of failure modes (transmission filter both internal and external, 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, screen filters to CPC solenoids, the CPC solenoids themselves, the shift solenoids, internal blockages in the valve body) to no avail. I have yet to get a CEL/TCM error but I'm afraid that will be too late. If you don't want to go down this rabbit hole I understand, just looking for someone to bounce ideas off I guess. Thanks in advance.
Yeah it definitely sounds like you've done your research! You've mentioned pretty much everything I would have suggested. If your ATF level and color is good, all ATF and solenoid filters are clean, and solenoids working fine, then it might just mean your transmission is getting old. I will admit, my transmission also sometimes misses shifting up into 3rd gear, almost as if the car went into neutral instead. It's very random when it happens and doesn't occur very often for me either. All I have to do is down shift into 2nd, and back into 3rd and everything is fine. You could also put the car in "N" and then back into "D5." If your car is doing nothing but occasionally missing the 3rd gear upshift, I think you'll be fine as I've been dealing with it for a while now and my car still runs like a charm.
Thanks for your reply, it makes me feel a bit better knowing I might be able to prolong the death of this car. Beating the odds on the longevity of this car/transmission is one of the reasons I love it so much. I'd like to think it's from constant care and maintenance (i've worked on this car since it drove off the lot) but it could very well be the work of lady luck. I've reached a cusp here with these new transmission problem as I've begun replacing some parts: struts, wheels + tires, F+R sways (for fun haha) and I still have some more work to do: upper control arms, lower ball joints, a brakes (all 4 corners). So you can imagine how this came as a bit of a disappointment. Since you have literally the identical problem as me I'm going to try a few things, first being replacing the CPC solenoid assembly (A/B), and see how things go. If you have done any work to the transmission to try and solve the issue let me know and perhaps we could solve this by process of elimination. I'll leave this document for you to review, www.atraonline.com/gears/2007/2007-05/2007_05_22.pdf its helped/confused me a lot (I'm a mechanical engineer by trade)
Yah I like a couple things that article says. One thing you can do to put less strain on your transmission is to start using your manual slap stick. This way, you have better control over when the car shifts along with controlling how much throttle you are applying while shifting. Obviously, it isn't as good to shift your car under full throttle as it is under partial throttle. I drive my TL almost like a manual. I release the throttle some, shift, then apply normal throttle again when accelerating. If you don't already, start using the manual shift option. It's really not as hard as you would think. Also, if you aren't getting code P0740 or something similar, I would like to think your solenoids are okay since that's what triggers the code. If you do end up changing these solenoids, please let me know if it fixes any problems and smooths out your shifting, I would love to know!
I will agree that the transmission complains less when using sportshift, i assume because you are eliminating the decision making the transmission has to make when changing gears. But if it is a symptom of the clutch control system then even in sportshift the transmission is still a the mercy of the computer 'feathering' the respective clutch packs in and out and relying on proper operation of the valving. That is what I hope is where the problem resides. I received the CPC solenoid assembly the other day, I'll keep you updated here as I try things.
Thank you for making this video. I have an 2002 Acura TL, too, but mine is the base model. I was wondering where the external transmission filter was located, so this video Really helped me out. I am gonna replace mine now.
Love your videos! I purchased a 01 CL Type S for $700 in August 2019. 140,000 miles I have no idea what maintenance was done. When making a tight U-turn, the RPM's will rev, but when I hit the gas, no moving. Once the RPM's go down to 700, I can now hit the gas and accelerate. Will look at cleaning the screens and replacing the filters like you mentioned in your videos. Do you think it's too late to change the trans fluid? Being I don't know the history of the vehicle. I do know, that the previous owner NEVER replaced the cabin air filter, as it was clogged with leaves/debris. Can only assume trans fluid has never been changed. Thanks!
IMO, it's a better idea to try and change the ATF then to think it's too late and never change it again. Check the dipstick and see if the fluid is really dark or not. If it's really dark, I might recommend two drain and fills, driving at least a few hundred miles in between each drain and fill to avoid shocking the system with all the brand new fluid. And yeah, most people and even the dealerships for that matter, don't know about the transmission filter. It would be a good idea to change that too.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple dang, I'm honestly afraid to touch it. I just bought my fiance one used with 230k miles on it and it got a new tranny around 100k. The fluid isn't too dirty so it should be okay to cycle the fluid but I'm still nervous
I have the same car as you and I mine is slightly slipping now. I was always told by my mechanic family members (old guys with experience on old cars) that when you change transmission filters/fluids that you can make transmission issues worse. Being so I haven't done anything to mine. But now reading all these comments first I'm going to look into that recall. Thank you so much. Hopefully it'll apply in my case. But secondly I'm going to try your advice. I'm going to clean the solenoid filters first. But after that should I change my transmission filter and do a single drain and flush? I'm terrified to do any damage or make it worse because I drive my car 30 miles to work one way every day. Am I wrong but after reading your stuff, the transmissions on our cars require a little more maintenance in order to perform properly? The exact opposite of what my family has told me?
My guess would be if your car hasn’t gotten the recall yet and you aren’t receiving anything in the mail regarding it, you probably don’t need it. Yes you should definitely clean the solenoid filters and change the exterior spin on filter. You should also do the drain and fill procedure as shown in my video. What you don’t want to do is take your car to a shop and have them power flush your transmission. That still holds true to this day. You also don’t want to do multiple drain and fills immediately back to back in a row. If your fluid is seriously dark enough that a second drain and fill is needed, drive a few hundred miles first. This is because all that fresh new fluid can have the same effect as a flush. The worst thing you can do is not change your fluid ever. You are correct in saying these cars transmission need a little extra attention. I’ve discovered that the best thing for these transmissions is a single drain and fill every 15k miles as replacing the filter every 30k miles. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Great video. Just confused when you’re talking about the filter that’s needed you say you recommend buying a cheaper filter then go on to talk it down and say it’s crap. So which filter exactly do you suggest?
Hello! I just bought a 02 tl s type and I’ve only driven it for a week or 2 and I took it to the Honda dealer and they told me my fluid needed to be changed, I didn’t change it and now my transmission goes into limp mode once the fluid gets up to temperature, it runs and drives fine all the way up until it warms up. I plan on changing my fluid this week as well as the filter and cleaning my solenoid screens but with that being said my fluid looks like it’s almost black and it smells burnt. I’m commenting to see if you think i still have a chance or should I just save the money to get it rebuilt?
I would say there’s still a chance. I’ve heard of many transmissions being revived after a fluid change and cleaning the solenoid screen filters. I would recommend driving a few hundred miles between each 3 quart drain-and-fill to avoid shocking the system with too much new fluid at once. Good luck!
Are you talking about the jet pack kit that goes into the filler hole from the return line from the filter? If so the acura dealer can order it for about 80 including shipping. I ordered one but mine is the 99 so I wasn't an issue for the 4 speed auto
I have a 02 Type S .. I've been getting the P0740 code for a year now but the car drives fine.. There's the occasional rpm flare up and goes nowhere but I drive mostly in town so I can pull over and start back and it drives normal.. It will happen only 2-3 times depending on weather or hills from a stop and go. A couple questions... I'm gonna clean the solenoids . Should I changed the gasket on the dual linear one? And 2.. Alot of people recommend 3x3 drain & fill. I'm gonna do a 1x3 first for a month,but should I wait until the 2nd one I change the extrnal filter ?
I never changed the gaskets on any of my solenoids, and I've removed them more than once, so you should be fine. Just remember to clean them gently and apply some clean ATF to the gaskets before putting the solenoids back on the vehicle. Kinda like how you would when changing an oil filter. If for whatever reason you do need new gaskets, they are available online. If your ATF is very dirty, yes I would recommend multiple drain-and-fills, but waiting for a bit in between each one so you don't shock the transmission. Also, I would wait until your final drain-and-fill to replace the filter. That way you're running the cleanest possible fluid through the new clean filter.
Incin3ration ok thanks.. my fluid was changed at 120k miles at jiffy lube who said they put an equivalent.. but I'm not too fund of equivalent that's why I'm doing the drain and fill. Again thanks
Amazing video man. Just got a 2001 TL with 196k and original tranny. If my fluid is already a very dark brown do you think it is worth it to go with a 3 quart drain-and-add without changing the filter or washer? While parts and additional ATF arrive I could maybe do it after 200 or so miles? Thanks!
Congrats on the new car! I think your plan sounds perfect. Sometimes when the fluid is dark enough, it is necessary to do multiple drain and fills to get it clean again. It’s also recommended to wait at least a couple hundred miles between changes to not shock the system. So do one change now, and do a second change when your filter arrives and you should be all set!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you for the thoroughness again. One more thing: do you know anything about the trans getting a little high-pitched whine between gear 1 and 2 that only comes after the car has been driving and warm for a while? Along with the lurching at high RPMs, those seem to be my only symptoms. My fluid is just above the min marker, like 30% to max. I'm thinking it's overheating a bit?
This is just fantastic information... if you have one of these great cars, take the time to do it right. Plan a half day and take it easy... enjoy it. There will be challenges... relax and think.. I would follow his solenoid video and take care of that too while you’re mucking around... but you will need that universal joint socket thing. Just try to keep it as straight as possible... no crazy angles. Both when loosening and tightening. And be prepared for some strangeness as the new filter finds it’s place... I had some subtle shuddering at red lights for the first 25 miles but then it disappeared. I ended up using a (new) turkey baster and some smallish tubing I had at hand to get the new fluid in there... took an hour or more to “inject” the fluid. I couldn’t break the thread on the filler bolt, even with a 1/2” breaker bar with an extension. It’s insane how tight that bolt is. So find a solution to fill through the level-check spout... 1/2” OD outlet funnels won’t work It’s good stuff... our TL-S is
I'm glad my videos could help! Yah that's another reason I don't mess with the fill bolt, they're just difficult to remove in the first place. I'm sorry it took an hour just to fill the transmission back up with fluid. Next time you're at home depot or menards, pick up a $3 roll of that vinyl tubing I showed in this video. It takes me about 10 minutes to put 3 quarts of ATF in. And thanks for the additional tips and insight!!
Thank you for this video. I drained the fluid and replaced with 3 quarts Honda ATF DW1. I'm having trouble getting the 2 bracket screws started after replacing the filter. Everything else went smooth. Any suggestions? 2002 Acura CL Type-S with 184,000 miles, was getting a shudder shifting into 3rd. Thank you in advance.
I finally got the screws back in the filter bracket, after I got the bracket lined up properly. I had a slight shudder for first few miles. The car shifts smooth, like new, can put it in drive without any shudder where i was having to keep it in 4th til highway speed. Thanks dude, I appreciate your vids, helped a great deal.
Yes, there is an internal transmission filter as well. It's called the Strainer Assembly (ATF) on the parts website. The part number is 25420-P7W-003. Of course, replacing this would require completely removing and disassembling the transmission. There are also some small internal screen filters similar to the ones found in the shifting solenoids that could potentially become clogged. This is why it's important to routinely change your ATF and external filter as well as cleaning the magnetic transmission bolt plug.
As long as you change the tranny fluid regulary you do not need to change filter the filter is very expensive to replace in most cars case its built in
@@faustsin9366 I don't agree with that. That's like saying you don't need to replace the engine oil filter as long as you change the oil regularly. Transmissions produce clutch wear material and occasionally metal flakes that need to be filtered out of the fluid. The magnetic drain bolt can catch some of this, but not all of it. If your filter is clogged, it can't filter anything either. The interior filter can only do so much over a period of time before it becomes useless as well. If it's replaceable, replace it. Yes, they are expensive as they are a custom made filter, but they also only need to be changed every 30,000 miles per my recommendation, which ends up being about the same cost as engine oil filters being replaced every 5,000 miles.
If a different fluid was used on the previous change but the filter was changed, should I still change the filter or would it maybe not matter? The guy that changed it said this fluid would 9/10 fix trans problems in early 00s acuras so I gave him a shot. Come to see where my tank is overfilled now though, so... 😕
As someone with 320,000 miles on the original transmission, I only recommend Honda DW-1. The filter should be fine, I simply recommend changing it every 30,000 miles. Since we can only change out 1/3 of the ATF at a time, it will take multiple fluid changes to get all the aftermarket fluid out. But don't stress it, just use DW-1 from now on.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks, I just changed it, but the tube I could find was a 3/18ths rather than a 1/4", so a very small ammount of fluid dripped out and when I went to check it it was just a tad low. It seemed to shift smoother, but I still am having the same issue. After I top it off and get it to the proper right level, I think I'm going to try replacing the 3rd gear fluid sensor like you did. Sounds like that helped you a lot. I actually changed the VSS sensor and that helped, but problem came back two months later. Have you ever changed your VSS? There's actually two, I only changed one of them, thought about changing the other. I read where some vehicle manuals you recommend you change em every 30-50k mi, not sure about Acura's though. Have you ever changed out any of the connectors or saw the need to? I'm just trying to brainstorm all possible things to see if I can mitigate the problem completely.
@@drgeorgejohnson I haven’t changed any speed sensors on my car yet, everything still appears to be working fine! And yes change my the 3rd gear pressure switch made a noticeable difference!
I think you're looking for part number 90031-P8F-A00. Here's a link: www.acurapartsforless.com/auto-parts/2002/acura/tl-sedan/type-s-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/engine-cat/intake-manifold-cover-type-s-scat/?part_number=90031p8fa00
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I was wondering if you need to have that plastic engine cover on? Or is it just for looks, & okay to drive around without it on?
@@georgedoughly8682 It's mainly for aesthetic purposes, but some people claim it acts as a dust cover, noise dampener, or a heat shield. I'd say it's okay to remove it unless the cover has some form of insulation or rubber seal attached to it, in which case that would make it functional.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Have you ever replaced your 3rd & 4th gear transmission pressure switches on your TL? I’ve heard that it is regular maintenance to replace those.
Yes you certainly can drain the fluid first before removing the filter! But be careful as it will still likely make a mess. And I’ve never prefilled any oil filters before. Good luck!
Sean Kerlew sounds like it has been taken care of well! I would still stick to performing a drain and fill every 15,000 miles and changing the exterior spin on ATF filter every 30,000 miles. If you know the ATF filter hasn’t been changed in a while, I would recommend doing that next time!
I'm currently trying to do a filter change but looked at the website and the part number is the same but the actual filter looks different in the picture provided. Is it still the same part?
Pause the video at 19:59. Normally there would be just a bolt there, but instead you can see a tube coming out of it instead. That’s the oil jet recall. Keep in mind, any transmissions made or replaced after 2005 will not have this recall. Odds are nobody needs this recall anymore at this point. If you do, you’d be getting letters in the mail, similar to the airbag recall saying you need to bring your car in for the service.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Ok thanks. I have a 2002 also and I see the tube coming out of mines just like yours. I love your videos. I actually binge watch them. Thanks so much for replying. I just got the ODB ll that you recommended. It just came today. I got a code 1750 and cleaned out the linear solenoid. And replaced the 3rd and 4the gear pressure switches. Hopefully that helps.
@@howardbolden4325 hopefully! Otherwise it is possible that the double solenoid on top of the transmission needs replacing. If cleaning it doesn’t help, that would be my next recommendation.
I have an 06 TL that has 161k on it. I'm thinking about a fluid & filter change. Have you had any problem's from changing the ATF. I'll definitely use genuine Honda ATF.
I have not! I do the fluid change every 15,000 miles and filter change every 30,000 miles as shown in the video. Do this and your TL should easily last 300,000+
Hey what was that thing you mentioned about the fill plug? “Oil jet recall”? My sister has a pilot with some hose going into the full tube and I can’t find anything on it.
The transmissions were originally overheating, so this oil jet recall was Honda's simple revision to the oil cooler return line to increase lubrication. Looks like the same recall also affected the 2003 and 2004 Honda Pilot. Recall number is 04V176000. repairpal.com/recall/04V176000
I could potentially be fixed! Make sure the fluid is clean and at the proper level as shown in this video, and also make sure to only use Honda DW-1. Also try checking out my solenoid filter video. Even if your cars check engine light isn’t on, the filters can still start to clog and cause issues. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you so much brother. Yes I’ve been viewing your videos and I will try to fix it before an overhaul. I will keep you posted. As of now it started slipping first, second and sometimes third. It is a 2003 Acura TL.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I cleaned all four of my strainers. Changed the fluid, and changed the oil filter. Took me about three hours. Wasn’t to bad. I did have to weld a 10mm socket to an open end wrench as I couldn’t get to the bolt furthest to the rear of the car that holds the filter oil line. For now there are no issues. Thanks you for your insight man your videos are very helpful.
@@JG2HTT Very cool! I love the Aegean Blue Pearl, it's gotten me many compliments! I had the exact same situation 8 years ago: 168k miles, 1 owner, and the guy had all the dealership records and took very good care of the car. I definitely hit the jackpot. Glad my videos have been helpful and enjoy your car!
what is the size of the wrench you used to remove the filter? You said it was a 15/16 inch wrench, but i'm assuming that is the length. Just want to make sure i have this wrench before i start.
Yes, the diameter of the wrench is 15/16". It's a big wrench. You could also use a socket and ratchet or even an adjustable wrench. If you're removing an aftermarket filter, it could be a different but close size. I put a Duralast ATF filter on my car (huge mistake) and needed a 1" diameter wrench to remove that one if I remember correctly.
Yesterday my 02 type s lower ball joint broke and popped the axel at the same time. Had it fixed before the day was over. Now my trans threw a P0730 code... mind you, my car has never had any trans problems under my ownership of the car (170K). Im thinking when the axel popped it damaged something internally... idk what to try and do to fix
well 2 of the main causes for that code involve the ATF fluid and/or the solenoids. I would start by checking how clean your ATF is. If it's brown, dark, or black, change it! Also check your ATF fluid level to make sure it isn't too high or low. Also check out my solenoid video. If those screens in the solenoids get clogged, it creates a lot of problems with your transmission.
Hey, did what was suggested... cleaned solenoids, replaced filter, and filled with genuine Acura ATF. problem is still there. I’m pretty sure when the axel came out, it through the gearing off. Just gonna get a new trans 🤦🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
We're replacing old fluid with new fluid. The entire transmission holds 7.6 quarts of ATF, but we can only drain 3 quarts at a time. My recommendation is to perform this 3-quart drain-and-fill once every 15,000 miles and replace the external transmission filter every 30,000 miles.
Probably a dumb question but how come you can only drain three quarts at a time? I was thinking you had to put the plug back in in intervals while checking how much came out each time until you get to 3 quarts
Thanks so much! I’m having a hard time getting under the car to get access to the drain plug to drain the transmission fluid. Would you recommend lifting the car up?
I've read in the owner's manual that I have to drain and refill the transmission fluid three times. Did you do this? Also, should I change the transmission filter before or after doing the 3x drain and refill?
I've only ever done a single drain and fill, in which I do that every 15,000 miles. Unless it's been a really long time and your fluid is super dark, then I might recommend doing 2 drain and fills. As for the filter, make sure to change it after you've changed your fluid if you plan on doing multiple drain and fills. If you're only doing a single drain and fill, it wouldn't really matter what order you do it in just as long as you do both at the same time. You wouldn't wanna run dirty fluid through a clean filter, just like you wouldn't want to run clean fluid through a dirty filter. Hope that helped!
I have the exact same car with the same royal blue paintjob, but mine is a 2003 model. It had approximately 175000 miles when I got it, and it's now at over 200000 miles. I bought it used in 2014, but I don't know if the previous owner changed the transmission fluid, so I could be way overdue. I also plan to change the air filter as well; what brand would you recommend? I've used Wix/Napa Gold and Purolator PureOne (now known as the Purolator One) filters in the past for my previous car, a 1994 Honda Accord. I don't know if I could trust Fram, though.
I've always used the longest ratchet I own use to remove it. That gives the most torque. But I understand it can be very difficult to remove due to corrosion as well as the limited positioning under the vehicle. Otherwise yes you can use an impact wrench to remove it. I've used one on other vehicles to remove the drain plug with no issue.
Morning and happy holidays. I'm writing for guidance with my exhaust system. The flanges for my resonator pipe and both mufflers are completely rusted out, to the point where you can not bolt them together with a repair. Right now there is a small leak in the drivers side where the muffler connects to the pipe. I would like to repair it if possible and avoid the cost of replacing the pipe and mufflers. As it is the oem resonator pipe is discontinued. I believe the exhaust system is 2 inch round pipe. Have you experienced this and what was your solution. Thanks as always, 🙂
Sorry for never responding to this old comment. I too have completely rusted exhaust flanges, I just don't care lol You have 3 options that I know of. 1. Weld it back together 2. Get some aftermarket exhaust split flanges which fit behind the existing flanges and pull the exhaust components back together. Don't forget to get a new gasket as well. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/TZzx35lkaMY/v-deo.html 3. Get a new aftermarket exhaust. Hope this helps and good luck!
I've read on the Acura forums about a few people saying the transmission slips even more now since using the new DW-1 which the never had with Z1... I'm about to do my second drain & fill out of the 3x3.... Have you had such issues that they are talking about?
In my experience with helping others and reading forums, most people don't change their fluid frequently enough, and when they do, that's when they notice problems because the damage has already been done. I've only ever used the DW-1 since I got this car in 2012, so I have nothing to compare to. However, with now 293k original miles, no rebuilds or replacements, my transmission sometimes has a hard time shifting into third, but I think that has more to do with the solenoids getting old. Also, it sometimes might slip in first or second under heavy throttle. But I guess you can expect that with this many miles. Regardless, DW-1 should be the only thing you put in your transmission, and any honest knowledgable mechanic including Scotty Kilmer and Eric the Car Guy will say the same thing.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I don't have the oil jet kit. Asked Acura about recalls and my car was never listed on their records. MY brother bought the car in 2016 and I don't think he got much information on the maintenance or anything. Original transmission I think. 134k now. Sad part is my cousin had a TL premium that it's transmission died & he still bought this car unaware of their issues I guess.. I've only gotten TCCM code only when I drive for long and the transmission gets really hot .. I got Incorrect gear ratio only 4 times and that was under heavy throttle or skidding in snow, Other than that it runs great transmission wise. I do gear the slip from 1st to 2nd . And get stuck in neutral on hot fluid.. Thankfully I only drive in town so I can pull off the road and restart again like I mentioned in my previous comment. PITA!!! I'm trying to get my Civic sold (Too low & small now) so I can purchase a AV6 for the swap Just in case, Hopefully I can get as lucky as you and reach 200k or so . That way I can save up for the other parts & labor or possible put towards a Toyota or a 4 cylinder Honda.
There is no pan that drops. Only a drain bolt to change the fluid as shown in the video. While there is an external filter also shown in the video, the internal filter would only be accessible by literally removing and disassembling the entire transmission.
Incin3ration Thanks An 02 with 131,000 miles , one owner, 2 inch receipt pack including brand new stock exhaust, timing service , rust free and a rebuilt trans will land here in a few days Obviously- all things trans related is an ongoing quest-
I read on diff forums that you gotta change fluid 2-3 times at once for better performance .Is that really necessary ? Any way my cl start lagging while accelerating ..it jerks when shifts between diff gears ..
I would not recommend doing 2-3 changes at once because there's a good chance all that brand new fluid at once will shock the system and you'll wash away all the particles essentially holding your transmission together. That's why you hear a lot of people say their transmission performs worse or even fails after a flush. Unless your fluid is brown or even black (which could cause those symptoms) then I might recommend doing 2 or 3 drain-and-fills, but waiting at least a good week or 2 in between each change to avoid shocking the system. Otherwise a single drain and fill once every 15,000 miles is all you need to do. It'll keep your fluid rejuvenated without ever shocking the system.
Hey my car is the same color year with leather interior but I'm having shifting issues sometimes it goes into gear and sometimes the car doesn't want to go reverse or forward but when it does it drives beautifully should I checked the trans solenoid first ?
yeah definitely check your solenoid filters if you're having any shifting problems. It's a relatively easy and free thing to do. Check out my other video on how to do that! But if you know your ATF is dirty and you'll be changing it anyways, you might as well change the ATF, ATF Filter, and clean the solenoids all in one go so you don't have to take everything apart again.
Just a combination of that bolt being difficult to remove and also not wanting to mess with the oil jet recall installed there. Filling through the dip stick tube has always works perfectly fine for me!
Take your car to Autozone and have them check the CEL find out what code your car is throwing. They'll do it for free and it takes less than 5 minutes. Then we'll have a much better idea of what exactly is wrong.
I would avoid the Lucus Oil Transmission Slip. Our cars already have a hard enough time pushing the fluid through those tiny screen filters in our solenoids, especially when they become clogged. The Transmission Slip will only make the ATF thicker and harder to pump through the system.
I own a 2002 Honda Accord and its coming up on 200,000 and i used the Lucas transmission stop slip and there was a very noticeable reduction in the slipping, it has made the car slip so little a passenger wouldn't notice unless i floored it from a stop. In my opinion i would give it a try if you are at the end of a transmissions life
Lucas is ok for some trans (700R4's, older Fords, etc.) but not so much in these Honda/Acura trans. I suggest a 3 drain fill with an full synth Honda equivalent fluid (Valvoline, Mobil1, Castrol, and more make these) and adding an ounce per quart of Lubegard Red (for Honda/Acura transmissions such as these). If you're willing, a better, slightly larger ext trans cooler wouldn't hurt either. It's really all you can do, these transmissions are garbage imo. I like their engines but in re to trans - if you're not a sucker with time and $ to waste I suggest avoiding these Honda/Acura vehicles. There are way smarter purchases one can make.
good stuff. the transmissions fail because the oil lines inside are too small. I had a good trans shop that ported the oil lines and it ran for 120k without even an oil change. hence what brought me here 😂
Joshua Bradley Thanks! yah it’s also why these transmissions had an oil jet recall. There wasn’t enough fluid getting to the clutch plates. This is also why I advocate for frequent fluid changes every 15,000 miles, to keep the fluid from getting dirty and viscous. Keep that fluid clean and your car will last a long time!
@@classic88warrior83 Many people’s slipping issues have gone away by changing the fluid and cleaning the solenoid screen filters. So it’s at least worth trying those 2 things for sure!
Hi, good to see your TL-S again! Mine is exactly the same color and they are so beautiful! I am curious about how you deal with the radio issue after disconnect battery? Mine needs disconnecting antenna connector to input radio code, which requires take apart so many things. That really sucks. Let me know if you have any suggestion.
Thanks man! Aegean Blue Pearl is definitely my favorite color as well! I've only seen two other blue ones ever, so they're definitely rare, and that's another reason why I love this car so much! Yeah, when you disconnect the battery, the radio does become inaccessible. Every Acura when bought new came with an Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card with a 5 digit code number that you would simply enter into the radio after reconnecting the battery. That's what I've always done. If you don't have the code, the only other thing I could recommend is taking it to either a Honda or Acura dealership and have them get you a code so this process isn't so complicated anymore. I can't imagine what a pain in the butt that must be!
Thank you for the reply. I guess I didn't said it clear enough. My car won't accept the radio code unless I take the antenna off. Does yours accept it directly?
Ohhhh I see. Yes, my car does accept the code directly and I've done it dozens of times. I do remember one time though that for whatever reason, it would not accept the code. Normally I just turn the key to the on position and then enter the code. But for that time, I was bored driving down the freeway one day, so I decided to try again and it worked first try. I never had that problem again as it was probably just a one time fluke. You could try entering the code with the car actually running. You never know. Otherwise, I might recommend getting two antenna extension cables so you don't have to take apart your center console and dash just to get back there. You would attach one extension to the antenna and the other extension to the head unit, then connect both extensions to each other and lead your new connection point somewhere easily accessible. I hope that makes sense!
Junqi Zhuo I have an 03 type S myself and your radio code issue you're having or had if you got it fixed doesn't sound normal at all. I've never heard of this before that unless you take your antenna off in order for your car to accept the factory radio code that just doesn't make sense to me why you would have to do all that to get your music going. If you haven't gotten this taken care of why don't you just upgrade to an aftermarket CD player or out in a double din DVD screen. Definitely worth it especially how cheap they are now a days! God I just made myself sound super old. LMAO!
Haha, thank you for reply. This symptom is actually common for 03 tl-s from what I have heard on a forum. I decided to buy a antena noise suppressor(basically a inline filter) which at least can serve as a switch for me. And the audio has face plate that won't be able to migrate to a aftermarket one. sigh...
@@henrypagan6657 the entire capacity for the transmission is 7.6 quarts, but you can only drain and fill 3 quarts at a time. If your fluid is extra dirty and dark, you could do one drain and fill, drive your car for a week, and do another drain and fill.
Wow thanks 🙏 I just did what you said everything you said is right you explain really good. Thank you. I changed the oil did not change the filter can I sill do it now.
This is the only video I seen with people post how their acuras are up and running and makes me happy that all the work I did on it and how the moment a problem occured I fixed it right away is not going to waste
With a little love these cars can last forever! Keep up the great work!
bro...your videos are fantastic. I'm an amateur at home mechanic who recently just did his first successful timing belt, waterpump, bearing, belts, and pulleys replacement. Your videos have now given me the confidence to work on my transmission! Thank you!!
That's awesome! Set your mind to it and you can do almost any car work! It's all just a bunch of clips, nuts, and bolts!
2005 acura tl 144000 miles ready for it transmission oil change. Thanks for the video, great work.
Nice! Keep that ATF clean and your car will last a very long time! Thanks for watching!
Bro for refilling mine. I have a tiny funnel that fits in the dipstick tube. And then I take my long funnel and pour through it into the tiny funnel. Took me a couple of minutes to pour 3 quarts this way.
Informational and clear instructions. Thank you. Nicely done.
Thank you!! I'm glad my video was helpful!
Have a 2003 Pilot that I am about to replace this filter as I'm sure it has never been replaced at 180K. Very good advice to anyone who wants to make these fragile Honda Transmissions last. Took me quite a while to realize there was even a filter on these transmissions as as you state. There is no mention in the owners manual or service manual. Love living in the Pacific NW. All my bolts and brackets under hood are like brand new. Zero corrosion unlike yours. Used to live in the rust belt. Hate the salt. Nice Video!
I own a 2001 CL S-Type with around 115,000 miles. I'm doing everything suggested in your videos for the trans and concur with the previous commentators that they are the best thing out there.
So, my ATF fill plug is not encumbered in any way. There is, to the right of that, what looks like a valve with an electrical connector that has three wires coming out of it that are green, blue and orange. I can see no blue bolt as mentioned in another post. The dealer says all recalls on this car have been addressed, but this is the same dealer who doesn't change the filter when changing the ATF and didn't replace the water pump when I had the timing belt changed at the 105,000-mile scheduled service.
I'm pretty much doing my own maintenance now, thanks to your comprehensive videos, but I'm still curious about the thing next to the ATF fill plug.
Thanks for being there.
Im pretty sure that’s the countershaft speed sensor. I’m glad my videos have been helpful! Thanks for watching!
@Incin3ration
Alright, that sounds reasonable to me. I'm changing the filter now and whoever did it last switched the long and short bracket bolts. Well, at least it got changed once in the last 100, 000 miles. I'm putting in an aftermarket filter for a tank or two of gas, then doing it all over with the OE filter. Thanks for the prompt response. You're a good guy. I wish I lived next door to you.
@@jamo27jj yeah get that OEM filter in as soon as you can. I had a bad experience utilizing an aftermarket ATF filter. And thanks again! Hope everything goes smoothly
Truly remarkable video... one of the best I’ve seen on UA-cam (and I’ve seen thousands of instructional videos covering all sorts of things). You really cover everything, in perfect detail. You would be a great teacher or professor... you have an empathy for your viewer’s mind. Very, very impressive (from a highly regarded university professor myself). Thank you for your effort!
Thank you very much! That means a lot coming from a professor such as yourself as I always looked up to my instructors throughout college as inspiration to become the best person I can be. I almost went to school to become a teacher but pursued a very enjoyable career in the medical field. I'm thankful for youtube and the opportunity to make quality automotive instructional videos as a side hobby and give back to the community. I'm very glad you enjoyed my video!
Well I did both the solenoid screen cleaning and the TF change... thank you so much for your guidance! We love our ‘03 TL-S and it was starting to stutter on shifts, especially from a stop.
So far so good... seems buttery smooth, and our car never had the recall thing done... it’s virgin 👼🏻
It was harder than I expected... or perhaps I’m older than I realize. Either way, a 6-7 on difficulty... at least to do both the screens and the filter/fluid change... my hamstrings were hollerin the next day from all the bending over.
Gotta have the tools and patience... and the radio code (disconnecting the battery will kill your radio, but google and you’ll find a number... very kind and capable Acura help.
Thank you again sir... wish I could shake your hand and buy you a.beer. You are a genuine person.
@@bighgnoz5189 Thanks for following up! I'm really glad to hear this helped fix your shuttering problems! I'm also proud of you for tackling this job! Good reminder about the radio code, I gotta remember to include that part in my videos anytime I disconnect the battery. bigh gnoz is right, it can be a long job for some the first time trying this, but after you do it once, you'll know the layout of your vehicle better, remember which tools you'll need, and it'll be so much easier after that. I remember this taking me quite some time my first attempt as well, but now I can do this job in under 2 hours! Thanks again and you're welcome! Very glad things worked out so well for you!
Thanks so much!.Your videos helped me so much today
It's my wife's car and it's a 2002 Acura TL with a 3.2 l in it and she loves the car so much she won't let me buy her a new one but it does have my transmission problem so your video helped me so much just on eliminating issues that could be there but I found none.
I'm a pretty handy guy but you gave me the confidence to tackle this job and all the tools I needed and that's really appreciated!
Now that I have checked the two sensors with the screens in them and changed the Third sensor for the transmission hopefully I can eliminate the code because the car runs so beautifully!
The code is P0710- transmission fluid temperature sensor a circuit
You have saved us a lot of money because now I can bring it to a mechanic and tell him l I have eliminated things that he said he would start to eliminate
Thanks again very much for a very informative video good job and please keep it up
My wife loves this car so much as well! But it’s a very masculine car... so strange. A great car... a luxury accord that sells for $3-5k less that a regular accord. Crazy.
Ever figure out what it was
That blue paint looks amazing
Hands down my favorite color!
Im a little jealous haha I have a white TL and I will say the paint has held up really well for a 15 year old car.
Thank you! Yeah nobody would ever guess this car has 253k miles. Just gotta keep it clean, waxed, and keep that salt off! I also use one of those garden oscillating sprinklers that attaches to a hose and use that to wash under the car, works really well! If you have snowy salty roads like I do, a good tip I have is to knock off any snow that may stick inside the wheel wells and under the side skirts because it contains salt, and you don't want that slowly melting on your car. Lastly, if you ever spot any rust, get some touch-up paint and cover it up ASAP to prevent it from spreading.
good tip about cleaning under the car I am going to start doing that. Tiny bit of rust under my rear wheel well but I have touched it up with paint you can't even see it now.
AGREE
Great insight. Lots of info. Thanks, and keep up the good work!
I have 2002 TL-S in pearl white, but yours is so beautiful in that blue color.
@@charlesescarria3726 thank you! It’s such a beautiful color, im surprised it’s not more popular. But then again, you do usually need the a-spec or type s model to get it
You are the man!!!!! This vid has been so much helpful. You're a life saver. Great vid. Thx
You are very welcome! I'm glad it could help you!
even after the recall with the little hose on top all u have to do is remove the 10mm bolt and remove the hose and fill up the trans quickly.
yeah I wasn't sure and didn't want to touch it.
All the parts were clean and spotless
03 Acura Cl no S, owned for coming up on 15 years and would love to keep and maintain my boy Blu for another 15 or forever as long I am around. I'm new to your videos and I appreciate how knowledgeable you are and youre ability to easily articulate in great detail a step by step guide to fixing this or that dohickie but with actually needed parts numbers, amounts of quarts [5] ,personal recommendation of said parts, tools needed , tips and tricks to issues you will sure encounter when taking on being your own mechanic hits a brick wall and isn't as easy as seen on some UA-cam tutorials make it appear to be. Thank you for the time you've donated to me , us and my journey with blu 42 I'll be checking back with your channel ,with or without an issue I'm going to fix and hopefully more upgrades I'd like to have time and money to get to. Sorry I know thats a lot and here's a lil more. Im trying to type S my non S , I know the interiors door panels , gauges ,shifter, floormats are easy to identify, isnt it the ecu , intake manifold {3.5L will fit but will the 3.7] ,and camshaft the added hp the base model is missing? I've been looking for a donor Cl-s from junkyards and theres more 2014 15 16 and newer from anyone of these manufacturers Mercedes ,BMW ,or Audi , unwrecked then 2gen CL RL TL combined and sometimes add in the 3rd gens and its still less. Alright thats enough from me . for now Thanks again. And some newer parts Ive noticed are starting to becoming discontinued as well . m90 supercharger upgrade video please .thats all folks.
Thank you so much for all the kind words! I'm glad I'm able to help lots of people fix their car including you! Unfortunately, engine swapping is something that I have never looked into or know anything about. Your best bet is to look up info on Acurazine and Acuraworld. Sorry I can't be of any help there. Sounds like it will be a fun upgrade though, good luck!
Hi. I love this video! You support all the DIYers learn new, liberating skills! I just wanted to point out: It looks like the is no ground attached, just above the atf filter when you remove it. If you already know, then cool. Again, thank you for your help!
Nevermind. I just saw it. Lol
Yah it was replaced right after making this video! Thanks for pointing it out though and glad my video has been helpful!
Great video! And I hope this guy buys a 4th-Gen and show us the same things about that car.
Thank you! We’ll see, I’m really interested in the RLX if I had to choose a new car to buy right now. I’ll be driving this car until it dies which at this rate probably won’t be for a while.
Excellent video, well documented facts, this is going to help resolve my transmission issues!
Thank you! Hope your transmission issues are resolved after this!
So My 2002 Acura TL Type-S didn’t have the oil jet kit on the transmission 🤔 So what does that mean? (Do I have the original trans or remanufacture unit) 7:12
it most likely means you have a replaced post-2005 production transmission with an internal oil jet recall and you should have nothing to worry about! Just keep up with those ATF fluid changes every 15000 miles and these transmissions will last you a very long time!
Bro, finished this today thanks to your vid!! much appreciated
SAVED ME 1500$ THANK YOU SO MUCH
Awesome! I’m glad this video could be helpful to you!
I bought that jetpack thru the dealer and didnt realize it wouldnt work on the 99. Last year the 4 speed auto would be used in the tl.
I’m surprised they didn’t do a VIN check to ensure it would fit on your car. Otherwise, there’s no reason anybody should need to buy the oil jet. It was a recall meaning Acura/Honda has to replace it for free. If you did still need it, you would be getting notifications in the mail, similar to that airbag recalls. They also redesigned the transmission, so anybody that had a transmission replaced after 2005 has an updated version that doesn’t require the oil jet.
I had to go to the dealership to have the steering wheel recall done on my 02 type s. While in there i asked about my transmission and they told me it was replaced in 2007 by Acura. Hoping its the reason im still going strong. Plan on keeping it that way. I dont know what transmission they put it. I wondered why i didn't have a oil jet where the plug is
They eventually fixed the transmission issues, so every transmission replaced in an Acura won’t need the oil jet. If you do have the oil jet, that means you probably have the original transmission
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple amen! Should I warm the transmission before doing a drain and fill? Thanks again for your videos bro! You're awesome
@@850CANE warming up the car isn’t needed to change the ATF. Glad my videos have been helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks man I'm about to buy a 2003 type s tomorrow, tyranny is the first thing I wanna service
Awesome! I think you'll be very happy with your purchase! And good thinking, I would do the same thing if buying another one of these!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you again for the information brother have a good saturday!
Great video I didn't change mine yet didnt know it was a external filter that's great news
This video has me thinking about all the money I wasted getting a rebuild on my last Acura.
Quick question: My 03 tl has a slight jerk when I take it out of park. I and going to changed the fluid and filter but should I clean the solenoid just in case even though the check engine light is not on? And typically what areas should I check first if I have a transmission-fluid leak? Thanks
Clean transmission fluid and replacing those filters certainly is the key to keeping these transmissions going! And I would recommend cleaning the solenoids, it’s free and easy to do, plus it can only do good for your car! As far as leaks go, it could be the transmission oil pan gasket, the rear main seal on the transmission, or an axle shaft seal.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks a lot will do. I’ve saw someone point out that they’re 4 solenoids on the trany (2 upper and lower). Do you think all 4 need to be clean or just the 2 u took off in the video? Was just curious after watching some post a video
@@cjhickson1569 there’s actually 8 solenoids/switches, the two shown in this video are the only ones that can really be cleaned
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ok gotcha. Thanks for the help
Hey that ground should probably be connected 👍. Nice video btw. I just bought an 03 TL. This is the next thing on the to do list.
Alpha Saiyan good eye! I did in fact replace it after making this video! And congrats! Keep up with those fluid changes and this car will last a very long time!!
Great video, Thankyou! By chance have any issues with your radiator fan not turning on?
You’re welcome! I don’t have any radiator fan issues, perhaps you have a bad relay or fuse
This is excellent, thank you!
@@lesawewin I’m glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
good video, you can make a video of how to change the differential oil?
Jose Argueta thank you! I’m glad it was helpful! And thanks for the video request! However, unlike the 1st generation TL’s, the 2nd generation doesn’t have a separate differential fluid change process. This is accomplished simply by changing the ATF as shown in this video, very convenient!
thanks for the info, i had no idea about that
I changed the Transmission Fluid today in my ‘02 Acura TL, and I noticed that I didn’t have the Oil Jet recall on top of the 17mm Transmission Fill Bolt.
Is there a blue bolt there? If so that means the transmission has been replaced before and that you have a post 2005 production transmission and you shouldn't have to worry.
Incin3ration no it wasn’t a Blue bolt. It was a gold yellow colored stock 17mm bolt that had the letters ATF on top of it.
@@georgedoughly6344 well your car has made it this far! If you're worried about it, you could probably still get the recall done. Has to be done at an Acura dealership though.
Incin3ration okay 👍 yeah my ‘02 Acura TL has 150,000 Miles on it, and it runs and performs excellent. I changed the transmission fluid a few days ago, and I changed the transmission Filter today. It shifts smoothly. I cleaned the EGR ports and EGR Valve, and cleaned the throttle body. I will call My Local Acura dealership and see what they say about getting the Oil Jet recall done. The one thing I worry about my Acura is the Timing Belt. I can’t do the job myself and every Shop wants $1,000 bucks or more to do it.
I called my Local Acura dealer, and they said that there wasn’t an open recall on my car for the oil jet recall. I think my car will be fine without it, LORD Willing 🤞🏻
Does the 1999 Acura TL with the 3.2 even have a transmission filter? I am having trouble finding an equivalent part for my year on the sight your using. Has anybody with a 99 done this fix?
The 1999 TL does not have an external transmission filter. They were implemented in TL's starting in 2000.
I also called Honda to get the Transmission filter and they say it's. $74.xx plus tax. Where did you get yours for. $8.42. Thank you
Hmmm, I can't find where I mentioned it costing only $8.42. I did mention a bunch of information on the filter between 1:53 - 5:08. Got it on acurapartsforless.com. Part # is 25450-P7W-003. Price seems to have gone up over the last year, filter is roughly $52 plus shipping. Link in the description. You also might be able to find a good deal on Amazon, so try checking there too!
Jeremy Surrett My Local Honda Dealership charges $100 bucks for the Filter! It is Outrageous! I saw it for $52 dollars 💵 on Acurapartsforless.com
Do you think doing this will help my car? I have a 2002 TL with a 2008 TL tranny that was put in by the Acura dealer about 15 years ago, and it worked beautifully all these years. But recently, the transmission started slipping in a major way.
About 9 months ago, I was driving down the highway, and the transmission just slipped out of gear. I pushed the accelerator down, and it just acted like it was in neutral. The engine just revved. So I figured it might be just that one gear. So I shifted down. It was in gear for 5 to 10 seconds, and then slipped. I kept downshifting thinking it might just be certain gears. But all of the gears seemed to be having issues.
I was able to get it off the highway. I did have to stop at a light, and then I was able to drive the car a little bit more. But when I had to go up a hill, it started slipping a lot. So I just pulled over and had it towed.
It’s been sitting for the past 9 months. I recently revived it, bc I was going to sell it. But in the process of getting it ready for sale, I just thought I would try driving it up and down the driveway.
I was able to drive it up and down the driveway about 10 times before it started slipping (maybe it slips when it heats up?).
So based on what I just said, do you think it’s possible that I can just drain 3qt and fill the ATF, and have the car start working again like others have done? Do I need to change the filter as well?
Or do you think it needs a solenoid? If so, which one?
Or do you think the transmission needs replacing?
I have never changed the transmission fluid since I bought the car in 2007 with 60k miles on it. It now has 161k miles on it.
Btw, I did smell the transmission fluid right after the slipping event, and it did smell burnt.
My mechanic said he had a customer who changed their transmission fluid, and the transmission died a week later, bc he had not changed the transmission fluid in a long time. But I think he had a ATF flush done as well. So maybe the pressure from the flush caused the tranny to go kaput.
That’s why I never changed the ATF in my TL when my car was still working, bc I had not changed it since I bought the car, and based on what my mechanic said, I thought it might mess it up. But based on what I have been reading, it might be the fix I’m looking for.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
So it’s definitely a scam for any mechanic or dealership to try and scare you into not changing the ATF or saying it’s a “lifetime fluid”. A flush will definitely make it worse, but drain and fills are fine. You should definitely change the ATF right away, and yes, there’s a very good chance it could revive your transmission. I would even recommend doing 2 or even 3 drain-and-fills for that matter because of how bad the fluid is. I would recommend driving the car a few hundred miles if possible or at least as much as your able in between changes though. Cleaning the solenoid screen filters has been a big resolution for these cars as well. I made a separate video for that on my channel if you want to check it out too!
ua-cam.com/video/ZbarS605YtE/v-deo.htmlsi=aP19rmj5eFYe7Un9
Hey brother you have saved my hide a few times and you are every bit the man that can wrench 🔧🔧🔧🔧
Thank you so much! I’m glad my videos have been helpful!
Tengo un 2002 Honda Accord V6
Es igual el cambio de filtro en la transmisión?
No hay filtro para su transmisión. El proceso de drenaje y llenado del fluido de transmisión es el mismo.
Hello again. I'm writing you today off topic again. As an fyi, the problem with my drivers front power window auto up and down button was a bad window module. Had to get a used one to replace it. Have you ever had to replace your rear wheel bearing hub? My passengers rear one went on the way home and I used a Timken bearing. It was an easy repair.
I’m glad you got your window fixed! And I have replaced a rear wheel bearing back when I needed to replace the knuckle. I also remember it being pretty easy!
Wow, you are the best!! You have been sooo helpful. Thanks!!!
Thank you and you're very welcome! Glad my videos have been helpful!
Would the Duralast Automatic Transmission Filter TF558 from Autozone be a good substitute as a drain filter?
I personally have not used it, I only use OEM ATF filters. But it appears to get good ratings, I'm sure it should work fine!
Do you have the recall number for the oil jet recall that you spoke of. Acura is telling me the dont see that recall for my Vehicle. Mine is a 2002 tl type s like yours same color etc.
The recall number is P30/P31. Part # is 06250-P7W-306.
I know this is an old post but for anybody looking for the same additional information, I just found the NHTSA recall campaign number: 04V176000. repairpal.com/recall/04V176000
Do you know if you have to be the original owner of the car in order to receive the fix or if they are still performing the repair under this recall? Thank you
Does anyone know if the transmission filter is supposed to have a gasket with it? The filters I'm finding don't come with gaskets and I'm not sure how to locate one. According to autozone, it says there should be a gasket but the gasket does not come with the filter and AutoZone doesn't offer the gasket. That makes no sense to me. Do you have any suggestions on that??
The ATF filter should come with a gasket, just like a typical engine oil filter. I personally would recommend the OEM filter despite the intimidating price. I had a bad experience with an aftermarket ATF filter that literally degraded within a year and clogged up my solenoid screen filters. Per my recommendation, this filter only needs to be changed every 30k miles, so it will last you a long time.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you very much.I truly appreciate it. The video is so thorough.. I truly appreciate how you make the video so simple to follow and explanatory in a way that even someone who does not know much about cars can still follow it successfully. I am not sure where to buy OEM parts?
Should I be concerned with being over filled by about a 1/4 inch on the dipstick when it was done at a transmission shop? Car is a 1998 Honda Accord ED V6. By the way that's a great video. Surprised how tough to replace the filter..
Thank you! Hmmm interesting how they would let that happen. Make sure the transmission is at full operating temperature and the car is off. Also, it's very important to check the level on a flat level surface. Even a slight incline can change the level of reading quite a bit. Otherwise, if it's still over the full mark by a 1/4" like you said, it would be highly advisable to drain some of the fluid out. Overfilling can cause the ATF to foam and splash inside your transmission and cause problems. Yeah, the filter isn't the most convenient thing to replace. Not too bad after you've done it a couple times though.
Thank you for your prompt reply. Transmission was rebuilt in 2016 due to slippage and clunking when slowing down. When I took it back after a month for a check they added 250 mL of an additive. This gradually made the shifts worse again and the fluid turned black. I had 2 drain and fills done in June 2018 which helped and had the last one done once in Sept 2019. I told them there was a bad vibration at idle and when put in drive but they couldn't do anything. Also last month when I was having the timing belt replaced another shop found a broken motor mount. With this replaced the vibration decreased to a tolerable level but when warming it still shifts with a slight thud. This might be the best it is going to get. I'll recheck the level as they added 4 liters to refill and seemed rushed. Other than that the best car, now 21 years old I've ever owned.
@@richardmorse8408 You'd be amazed how much of a difference clean fluid, proper level of the fluid, as well as using Honda DW-1 instead of aftermarket fluid makes. No regular shop will ever use Honda fluids, only the dealer does. Make sure those three things are correct and you very well may notice a difference!
Incin3ration Thanks for your follow up. I totally agree with with that advice. I've been wondering whether they actually used Honda fluid since they have it in bulk and pump it in with a hose. On any fluid change I do I use genuine fluids and parts where possible. I was very surprised after the transmission rebuild in 2016 that they put in an additive of around 250 mL which is not recommended by Honda. In fact the fluid gradually turned very dark and the shift quality became poor. Might have to go to the Dealer.
Yes, you were right. I dropped by the transmission shop this morning and learned they use aftermarket fluid. He also told me it's a myth that having the transmission overfilled by 3/8" will cause any problems. I remember that after it was rebuilt in 2016 the fluid went black and the shift quality was appalling. I'm making an appointment with the Honda Dealer tomorrow.
Thank you for posting an excellent video. Appreciate your work. One question, did you have to prefill the new filter before installing to avoid airlock? And is airlock and issue? Thank you again. Have productive day.
Thank you and you're welcome! I don't prefill the new filters and have had no problems!
I have a 2003 Acura 3.2 TL. I was thinking, why not wait until after the second drain and fill to replace the filter. That way the new filter has cleaner fluid in it and less particulate in it when the process is done. What's your thoughts Incin3ration?
That sounds like a good idea to wait until after the 2nd fill to replace the filter. I would also wait maybe a couple hundred miles in between each drain and fill so you don’t shock the system with all that new fluid at once, and you’re golden!
With the hose and bottles of atf just pop a hole in the bottom of the atf fluid bottle and it will get the air it needs
That is another good option for the first method I showed with the yorker sprout cap! I personally like to put the dirty fluid back in the bottles though. Hope you enjoyed my video!
Thanks love your videos.
I also have a 2003 TL (base) and although this does not pertain specifically to the subject of this video I wanted to comment anyways as I've grown tired of sifting through all the noise on forums. I was lucky enough to have my factory transmission make it to 200K before needing a rebuild but after putting another 50K on it I've begun to run into some issues. It seems the transmission is no engaging 3rd gear on a 2-3 shift or on during throttle application after coasting in 3rd. This doesn't happen constantly but it happens in single instances once or twice a week (early enough to where i hope it is more a symptom than a problem). I've done plenty of research on this transmission and the countless number of failure modes (transmission filter both internal and external, 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, screen filters to CPC solenoids, the CPC solenoids themselves, the shift solenoids, internal blockages in the valve body) to no avail. I have yet to get a CEL/TCM error but I'm afraid that will be too late. If you don't want to go down this rabbit hole I understand, just looking for someone to bounce ideas off I guess. Thanks in advance.
Yeah it definitely sounds like you've done your research! You've mentioned pretty much everything I would have suggested. If your ATF level and color is good, all ATF and solenoid filters are clean, and solenoids working fine, then it might just mean your transmission is getting old. I will admit, my transmission also sometimes misses shifting up into 3rd gear, almost as if the car went into neutral instead. It's very random when it happens and doesn't occur very often for me either. All I have to do is down shift into 2nd, and back into 3rd and everything is fine. You could also put the car in "N" and then back into "D5." If your car is doing nothing but occasionally missing the 3rd gear upshift, I think you'll be fine as I've been dealing with it for a while now and my car still runs like a charm.
Thanks for your reply, it makes me feel a bit better knowing I might be able to prolong the death of this car. Beating the odds on the longevity of this car/transmission is one of the reasons I love it so much. I'd like to think it's from constant care and maintenance (i've worked on this car since it drove off the lot) but it could very well be the work of lady luck. I've reached a cusp here with these new transmission problem as I've begun replacing some parts: struts, wheels + tires, F+R sways (for fun haha) and I still have some more work to do: upper control arms, lower ball joints, a brakes (all 4 corners). So you can imagine how this came as a bit of a disappointment. Since you have literally the identical problem as me I'm going to try a few things, first being replacing the CPC solenoid assembly (A/B), and see how things go. If you have done any work to the transmission to try and solve the issue let me know and perhaps we could solve this by process of elimination. I'll leave this document for you to review, www.atraonline.com/gears/2007/2007-05/2007_05_22.pdf its helped/confused me a lot (I'm a mechanical engineer by trade)
Yah I like a couple things that article says. One thing you can do to put less strain on your transmission is to start using your manual slap stick. This way, you have better control over when the car shifts along with controlling how much throttle you are applying while shifting. Obviously, it isn't as good to shift your car under full throttle as it is under partial throttle. I drive my TL almost like a manual. I release the throttle some, shift, then apply normal throttle again when accelerating. If you don't already, start using the manual shift option. It's really not as hard as you would think. Also, if you aren't getting code P0740 or something similar, I would like to think your solenoids are okay since that's what triggers the code. If you do end up changing these solenoids, please let me know if it fixes any problems and smooths out your shifting, I would love to know!
I will agree that the transmission complains less when using sportshift, i assume because you are eliminating the decision making the transmission has to make when changing gears. But if it is a symptom of the clutch control system then even in sportshift the transmission is still a the mercy of the computer 'feathering' the respective clutch packs in and out and relying on proper operation of the valving. That is what I hope is where the problem resides. I received the CPC solenoid assembly the other day, I'll keep you updated here as I try things.
Thank you for making this video. I have an 2002 Acura TL, too, but mine is the base model. I was wondering where the external transmission filter was located, so this video Really helped me out. I am gonna replace mine now.
Awesome! I'm glad it helped!
Love your videos!
I purchased a 01 CL Type S for $700 in August 2019.
140,000 miles
I have no idea what maintenance was done.
When making a tight U-turn, the RPM's will rev, but when I hit the gas, no moving.
Once the RPM's go down to 700, I can now hit the gas and accelerate.
Will look at cleaning the screens and replacing the filters like you mentioned in your videos.
Do you think it's too late to change the trans fluid?
Being I don't know the history of the vehicle.
I do know, that the previous owner NEVER replaced the cabin air filter, as it was clogged with leaves/debris.
Can only assume trans fluid has never been changed.
Thanks!
IMO, it's a better idea to try and change the ATF then to think it's too late and never change it again. Check the dipstick and see if the fluid is really dark or not. If it's really dark, I might recommend two drain and fills, driving at least a few hundred miles in between each drain and fill to avoid shocking the system with all the brand new fluid. And yeah, most people and even the dealerships for that matter, don't know about the transmission filter. It would be a good idea to change that too.
I have this issue, plan to do this to fix it hopefully.
Is this rhe same for rhe regular tl?
Yes it is!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple dang, I'm honestly afraid to touch it. I just bought my fiance one used with 230k miles on it and it got a new tranny around 100k. The fluid isn't too dirty so it should be okay to cycle the fluid but I'm still nervous
I have the same car as you and I mine is slightly slipping now. I was always told by my mechanic family members (old guys with experience on old cars) that when you change transmission filters/fluids that you can make transmission issues worse. Being so I haven't done anything to mine. But now reading all these comments first I'm going to look into that recall. Thank you so much. Hopefully it'll apply in my case. But secondly I'm going to try your advice. I'm going to clean the solenoid filters first. But after that should I change my transmission filter and do a single drain and flush? I'm terrified to do any damage or make it worse because I drive my car 30 miles to work one way every day. Am I wrong but after reading your stuff, the transmissions on our cars require a little more maintenance in order to perform properly? The exact opposite of what my family has told me?
My guess would be if your car hasn’t gotten the recall yet and you aren’t receiving anything in the mail regarding it, you probably don’t need it. Yes you should definitely clean the solenoid filters and change the exterior spin on filter. You should also do the drain and fill procedure as shown in my video. What you don’t want to do is take your car to a shop and have them power flush your transmission. That still holds true to this day. You also don’t want to do multiple drain and fills immediately back to back in a row. If your fluid is seriously dark enough that a second drain and fill is needed, drive a few hundred miles first. This is because all that fresh new fluid can have the same effect as a flush. The worst thing you can do is not change your fluid ever. You are correct in saying these cars transmission need a little extra attention. I’ve discovered that the best thing for these transmissions is a single drain and fill every 15k miles as replacing the filter every 30k miles. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Great video. Just confused when you’re talking about the filter that’s needed you say you recommend buying a cheaper filter then go on to talk it down and say it’s crap. So which filter exactly do you suggest?
At 3:38 I recommend the OEM filter. Thanks for watching!!
Hello! I just bought a 02 tl s type and I’ve only driven it for a week or 2 and I took it to the Honda dealer and they told me my fluid needed to be changed, I didn’t change it and now my transmission goes into limp mode once the fluid gets up to temperature, it runs and drives fine all the way up until it warms up. I plan on changing my fluid this week as well as the filter and cleaning my solenoid screens but with that being said my fluid looks like it’s almost black and it smells burnt. I’m commenting to see if you think i still have a chance or should I just save the money to get it rebuilt?
I would say there’s still a chance. I’ve heard of many transmissions being revived after a fluid change and cleaning the solenoid screen filters. I would recommend driving a few hundred miles between each 3 quart drain-and-fill to avoid shocking the system with too much new fluid at once. Good luck!
If I didn’t have the recall done is there a way for me to still get it?
Are you talking about the jet pack kit that goes into the filler hole from the return line from the filter? If so the acura dealer can order it for about 80 including shipping. I ordered one but mine is the 99 so I wasn't an issue for the 4 speed auto
I have a 02 Type S .. I've been getting the P0740 code for a year now but the car drives fine.. There's the occasional rpm flare up and goes nowhere but I drive mostly in town so I can pull over and start back and it drives normal.. It will happen only 2-3 times depending on weather or hills from a stop and go.
A couple questions... I'm gonna clean the solenoids . Should I changed the gasket on the dual linear one? And 2.. Alot of people recommend 3x3 drain & fill. I'm gonna do a 1x3 first for a month,but should I wait until the 2nd one I change the extrnal filter ?
I never changed the gaskets on any of my solenoids, and I've removed them more than once, so you should be fine. Just remember to clean them gently and apply some clean ATF to the gaskets before putting the solenoids back on the vehicle. Kinda like how you would when changing an oil filter. If for whatever reason you do need new gaskets, they are available online. If your ATF is very dirty, yes I would recommend multiple drain-and-fills, but waiting for a bit in between each one so you don't shock the transmission. Also, I would wait until your final drain-and-fill to replace the filter. That way you're running the cleanest possible fluid through the new clean filter.
Incin3ration ok thanks.. my fluid was changed at 120k miles at jiffy lube who said they put an equivalent.. but I'm not too fund of equivalent that's why I'm doing the drain and fill. Again thanks
Amazing video man. Just got a 2001 TL with 196k and original tranny. If my fluid is already a very dark brown do you think it is worth it to go with a 3 quart drain-and-add without changing the filter or washer? While parts and additional ATF arrive I could maybe do it after 200 or so miles? Thanks!
Congrats on the new car! I think your plan sounds perfect. Sometimes when the fluid is dark enough, it is necessary to do multiple drain and fills to get it clean again. It’s also recommended to wait at least a couple hundred miles between changes to not shock the system. So do one change now, and do a second change when your filter arrives and you should be all set!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you for the thoroughness again. One more thing: do you know anything about the trans getting a little high-pitched whine between gear 1 and 2 that only comes after the car has been driving and warm for a while? Along with the lurching at high RPMs, those seem to be my only symptoms. My fluid is just above the min marker, like 30% to max. I'm thinking it's overheating a bit?
This is just fantastic information... if you have one of these great cars, take the time to do it right. Plan a half day and take it easy... enjoy it. There will be challenges... relax and think.. I would follow his solenoid video and take care of that too while you’re mucking around... but you will need that universal joint socket thing. Just try to keep it as straight as possible... no crazy angles. Both when loosening and tightening.
And be prepared for some strangeness as the new filter finds it’s place... I had some subtle shuddering at red lights for the first 25 miles but then it disappeared.
I ended up using a (new) turkey baster and some smallish tubing I had at hand to get the new fluid in there... took an hour or more to “inject” the fluid. I couldn’t break the thread on the filler bolt, even with a 1/2” breaker bar with an extension. It’s insane how tight that bolt is. So find a solution to fill through the level-check spout... 1/2” OD outlet funnels won’t work
It’s good stuff... our TL-S is
I'm glad my videos could help! Yah that's another reason I don't mess with the fill bolt, they're just difficult to remove in the first place. I'm sorry it took an hour just to fill the transmission back up with fluid. Next time you're at home depot or menards, pick up a $3 roll of that vinyl tubing I showed in this video. It takes me about 10 minutes to put 3 quarts of ATF in. And thanks for the additional tips and insight!!
Thank you for this video. I drained the fluid and replaced with 3 quarts Honda ATF DW1. I'm having trouble getting the 2 bracket screws started after replacing the filter. Everything else went smooth. Any suggestions? 2002 Acura CL Type-S with 184,000 miles, was getting a shudder shifting into 3rd. Thank you in advance.
I finally got the screws back in the filter bracket, after I got the bracket lined up properly. I had a slight shudder for first few miles. The car shifts smooth, like new, can put it in drive without any shudder where i was having to keep it in 4th til highway speed. Thanks dude, I appreciate your vids, helped a great deal.
Is there also a filter in the actual transmission? thank you
Yes, there is an internal transmission filter as well. It's called the Strainer Assembly (ATF) on the parts website. The part number is 25420-P7W-003. Of course, replacing this would require completely removing and disassembling the transmission. There are also some small internal screen filters similar to the ones found in the shifting solenoids that could potentially become clogged. This is why it's important to routinely change your ATF and external filter as well as cleaning the magnetic transmission bolt plug.
As long as you change the tranny fluid regulary you do not need to change filter the filter is very expensive to replace in most cars case its built in
@@faustsin9366 I don't agree with that. That's like saying you don't need to replace the engine oil filter as long as you change the oil regularly. Transmissions produce clutch wear material and occasionally metal flakes that need to be filtered out of the fluid. The magnetic drain bolt can catch some of this, but not all of it. If your filter is clogged, it can't filter anything either. The interior filter can only do so much over a period of time before it becomes useless as well. If it's replaceable, replace it. Yes, they are expensive as they are a custom made filter, but they also only need to be changed every 30,000 miles per my recommendation, which ends up being about the same cost as engine oil filters being replaced every 5,000 miles.
If a different fluid was used on the previous change but the filter was changed, should I still change the filter or would it maybe not matter? The guy that changed it said this fluid would 9/10 fix trans problems in early 00s acuras so I gave him a shot. Come to see where my tank is overfilled now though, so... 😕
As someone with 320,000 miles on the original transmission, I only recommend Honda DW-1. The filter should be fine, I simply recommend changing it every 30,000 miles. Since we can only change out 1/3 of the ATF at a time, it will take multiple fluid changes to get all the aftermarket fluid out. But don't stress it, just use DW-1 from now on.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks, I just changed it, but the tube I could find was a 3/18ths rather than a 1/4", so a very small ammount of fluid dripped out and when I went to check it it was just a tad low. It seemed to shift smoother, but I still am having the same issue. After I top it off and get it to the proper right level, I think I'm going to try replacing the 3rd gear fluid sensor like you did. Sounds like that helped you a lot. I actually changed the VSS sensor and that helped, but problem came back two months later. Have you ever changed your VSS? There's actually two, I only changed one of them, thought about changing the other. I read where some vehicle manuals you recommend you change em every 30-50k mi, not sure about Acura's though. Have you ever changed out any of the connectors or saw the need to? I'm just trying to brainstorm all possible things to see if I can mitigate the problem completely.
@@drgeorgejohnson I haven’t changed any speed sensors on my car yet, everything still appears to be working fine! And yes change my the 3rd gear pressure switch made a noticeable difference!
Hi, I lost one screw that hold the plastic engine cover when cleaning solenoids. Where could I buy it? Thanks.
I think you're looking for part number 90031-P8F-A00. Here's a link: www.acurapartsforless.com/auto-parts/2002/acura/tl-sedan/type-s-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/engine-cat/intake-manifold-cover-type-s-scat/?part_number=90031p8fa00
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I was wondering if you need to have that plastic engine cover on? Or is it just for looks, & okay to drive around without it on?
@@georgedoughly8682 It's mainly for aesthetic purposes, but some people claim it acts as a dust cover, noise dampener, or a heat shield. I'd say it's okay to remove it unless the cover has some form of insulation or rubber seal attached to it, in which case that would make it functional.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Okay great. Thank you! I love your videos. Keep up the good work.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Have you ever replaced your 3rd & 4th gear transmission pressure switches on your TL? I’ve heard that it is regular maintenance to replace those.
great video! thanks for the info and hard work you put into it.!!!
You're very welcome! Glad it helped! :)
Great video. Can I drain the fluid before removing the filter? Also, does the new filter need to fill a little fluid before installing it?
Yes you certainly can drain the fluid first before removing the filter! But be careful as it will still likely make a mess. And I’ve never prefilled any oil filters before. Good luck!
Excellent video! Thank you.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
I have 175k fluid smells good and color is decent should I change it?
Sean Kerlew sounds like it has been taken care of well! I would still stick to performing a drain and fill every 15,000 miles and changing the exterior spin on ATF filter every 30,000 miles. If you know the ATF filter hasn’t been changed in a while, I would recommend doing that next time!
Incin3ration will do now that I watched this video I gonna give it a wack and try it myself
I'm currently trying to do a filter change but looked at the website and the part number is the same but the actual filter looks different in the picture provided. Is it still the same part?
yah idk why the picture changes when you actually click on it. 25450-P7W-003 is the correct part number though.
Duuude!!! Please tell me what color code that blue is..B.E.A.utiful!
It's Aegean Blue Pearl, paint code B504P. It truly is an amazing paint color that should be available on every car!
How can you tell if you had the oil jet recall done on your car?
Pause the video at 19:59. Normally there would be just a bolt there, but instead you can see a tube coming out of it instead. That’s the oil jet recall. Keep in mind, any transmissions made or replaced after 2005 will not have this recall. Odds are nobody needs this recall anymore at this point. If you do, you’d be getting letters in the mail, similar to the airbag recall saying you need to bring your car in for the service.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Ok thanks. I have a 2002 also and I see the tube coming out of mines just like yours. I love your videos. I actually binge watch them. Thanks so much for replying. I just got the ODB ll that you recommended. It just came today. I got a code 1750 and cleaned out the linear solenoid. And replaced the 3rd and 4the gear pressure switches. Hopefully that helps.
@@howardbolden4325 hopefully! Otherwise it is possible that the double solenoid on top of the transmission needs replacing. If cleaning it doesn’t help, that would be my next recommendation.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple What kind of gas do you use?
@@howardbolden4325 premium, octane 91 or 93 whatever's available
I have an 06 TL that has 161k on it. I'm thinking about a fluid & filter change. Have you had any problem's from changing the ATF. I'll definitely use genuine Honda ATF.
I have not! I do the fluid change every 15,000 miles and filter change every 30,000 miles as shown in the video. Do this and your TL should easily last 300,000+
Hey what was that thing you mentioned about the fill plug? “Oil jet recall”? My sister has a pilot with some hose going into the full tube and I can’t find anything on it.
The transmissions were originally overheating, so this oil jet recall was Honda's simple revision to the oil cooler return line to increase lubrication. Looks like the same recall also affected the 2003 and 2004 Honda Pilot. Recall number is 04V176000.
repairpal.com/recall/04V176000
Do I have to keep using Honda ATF-Z1 or can we use another transmission fluid
Use only Honda DW-1. It is the new formula that replaces Honda’s old Z1 fluid.
Would you suggest doing this at the same time as the solenoid filters?
Yes! Removing the air box assembly and battery is required to both change the ATF filter as well as remove the solenoid on top of the transmission
I just bought one and drove an hour and my transmission started slipping. I’m so sad
I could potentially be fixed! Make sure the fluid is clean and at the proper level as shown in this video, and also make sure to only use Honda DW-1. Also try checking out my solenoid filter video. Even if your cars check engine light isn’t on, the filters can still start to clog and cause issues. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you so much brother. Yes I’ve been viewing your videos and I will try to fix it before an overhaul. I will keep you posted. As of now it started slipping first, second and sometimes third. It is a 2003 Acura TL.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I cleaned all four of my strainers. Changed the fluid, and changed the oil filter. Took me about three hours. Wasn’t to bad. I did have to weld a 10mm socket to an open end wrench as I couldn’t get to the bolt furthest to the rear of the car that holds the filter oil line. For now there are no issues. Thanks you for your insight man your videos are very helpful.
@@stewiie213 That's awesome to hear the issues appear to have gone away! I hope it stays that way! Glad my videos could be useful to you!
To make it come out of the bottle put a hole in the bottom of the oil bottle pressure will force the oil out faster.
You can do that! But I like to reuse the bottles for disposing of the dirty fluid, which is why I did it this way instead. Thanks for watching!
I have the same car, year and color. 156k miles there was one other owner and all his maintenance records were still in the car.
@@JG2HTT Very cool! I love the Aegean Blue Pearl, it's gotten me many compliments! I had the exact same situation 8 years ago: 168k miles, 1 owner, and the guy had all the dealership records and took very good care of the car. I definitely hit the jackpot. Glad my videos have been helpful and enjoy your car!
what is the size of the wrench you used to remove the filter? You said it was a 15/16 inch wrench, but i'm assuming that is the length. Just want to make sure i have this wrench before i start.
Yes, the diameter of the wrench is 15/16". It's a big wrench. You could also use a socket and ratchet or even an adjustable wrench. If you're removing an aftermarket filter, it could be a different but close size. I put a Duralast ATF filter on my car (huge mistake) and needed a 1" diameter wrench to remove that one if I remember correctly.
Yesterday my 02 type s lower ball joint broke and popped the axel at the same time. Had it fixed before the day was over. Now my trans threw a P0730 code... mind you, my car has never had any trans problems under my ownership of the car (170K). Im thinking when the axel popped it damaged something internally... idk what to try and do to fix
well 2 of the main causes for that code involve the ATF fluid and/or the solenoids. I would start by checking how clean your ATF is. If it's brown, dark, or black, change it! Also check your ATF fluid level to make sure it isn't too high or low. Also check out my solenoid video. If those screens in the solenoids get clogged, it creates a lot of problems with your transmission.
Incin3ration thanks for the advice, i was already planning to take those next steps. Keep you updated.
Hey, did what was suggested... cleaned solenoids, replaced filter, and filled with genuine Acura ATF. problem is still there. I’m pretty sure when the axel came out, it through the gearing off. Just gonna get a new trans 🤦🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
Yah it probably is a mechanical problem within the transmission. That sucks, I'm sorry this didn't work for you.
So for this to be a “3 quart drain and fill” are you filling the rest of the way with the old fluid or is it just a flush (replacing old with new)?
We're replacing old fluid with new fluid. The entire transmission holds 7.6 quarts of ATF, but we can only drain 3 quarts at a time. My recommendation is to perform this 3-quart drain-and-fill once every 15,000 miles and replace the external transmission filter every 30,000 miles.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ahh that makes sense thank you so much and for the quick reply as I asked right before going to pick up more fluid 😎
Probably a dumb question but how come you can only drain three quarts at a time? I was thinking you had to put the plug back in in intervals while checking how much came out each time until you get to 3 quarts
The 15 or 16 inch wrench that you recommend to loosen the filter, is that also 10mm?
It’s a 15/16” wrench, sorry for the confusion. You could also try a 24mm, that might fit too. There’s room for a socket too
Thanks so much!
I’m having a hard time getting under the car to get access to the drain plug to drain the transmission fluid. Would you recommend lifting the car up?
@@MacInAction you could jack it up a little bit! Whatever makes the process as easy as possible for you.
I've read in the owner's manual that I have to drain and refill the transmission fluid three times. Did you do this?
Also, should I change the transmission filter before or after doing the 3x drain and refill?
I've only ever done a single drain and fill, in which I do that every 15,000 miles. Unless it's been a really long time and your fluid is super dark, then I might recommend doing 2 drain and fills. As for the filter, make sure to change it after you've changed your fluid if you plan on doing multiple drain and fills. If you're only doing a single drain and fill, it wouldn't really matter what order you do it in just as long as you do both at the same time. You wouldn't wanna run dirty fluid through a clean filter, just like you wouldn't want to run clean fluid through a dirty filter. Hope that helped!
I have the exact same car with the same royal blue paintjob, but mine is a 2003 model. It had approximately 175000 miles when I got it, and it's now at over 200000 miles.
I bought it used in 2014, but I don't know if the previous owner changed the transmission fluid, so I could be way overdue.
I also plan to change the air filter as well; what brand would you recommend? I've used Wix/Napa Gold and Purolator PureOne (now known as the Purolator One) filters in the past for my previous car, a 1994 Honda Accord. I don't know if I could trust Fram, though.
My drain bolt is so tight, what can I do in order to make it loose？can I use a impact wrench? Or do you have a better suggestion for me please?
I've always used the longest ratchet I own use to remove it. That gives the most torque. But I understand it can be very difficult to remove due to corrosion as well as the limited positioning under the vehicle. Otherwise yes you can use an impact wrench to remove it. I've used one on other vehicles to remove the drain plug with no issue.
i do have a brake bar. i tried to use the brake bar since i couldn't jack the car any higher, it made the brake bar useless.
I'm sure an impact wrench could get it off then!
Morning and happy holidays. I'm writing for guidance with my exhaust system. The flanges for my resonator pipe and both mufflers are completely rusted out, to the point where you can not bolt them together with a repair. Right now there is a small leak in the drivers side where the muffler connects to the pipe. I would like to repair it if possible and avoid the cost of replacing the pipe and mufflers. As it is the oem resonator pipe is discontinued. I believe the exhaust system is 2 inch round pipe. Have you experienced this and what was your solution. Thanks as always, 🙂
Sorry for never responding to this old comment. I too have completely rusted exhaust flanges, I just don't care lol You have 3 options that I know of.
1. Weld it back together
2. Get some aftermarket exhaust split flanges which fit behind the existing flanges and pull the exhaust components back together. Don't forget to get a new gasket as well. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/TZzx35lkaMY/v-deo.html
3. Get a new aftermarket exhaust.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Thank you for always responding and if course your great videos!
I've read on the Acura forums about a few people saying the transmission slips even more now since using the new DW-1 which the never had with Z1... I'm about to do my second drain & fill out of the 3x3.... Have you had such issues that they are talking about?
In my experience with helping others and reading forums, most people don't change their fluid frequently enough, and when they do, that's when they notice problems because the damage has already been done. I've only ever used the DW-1 since I got this car in 2012, so I have nothing to compare to. However, with now 293k original miles, no rebuilds or replacements, my transmission sometimes has a hard time shifting into third, but I think that has more to do with the solenoids getting old. Also, it sometimes might slip in first or second under heavy throttle. But I guess you can expect that with this many miles. Regardless, DW-1 should be the only thing you put in your transmission, and any honest knowledgable mechanic including Scotty Kilmer and Eric the Car Guy will say the same thing.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I don't have the oil jet kit. Asked Acura about recalls and my car was never listed on their records. MY brother bought the car in 2016 and I don't think he got much information on the maintenance or anything. Original transmission I think. 134k now. Sad part is my cousin had a TL premium that it's transmission died & he still bought this car unaware of their issues I guess.. I've only gotten TCCM code only when I drive for long and the transmission gets really hot ..
I got Incorrect gear ratio only 4 times and that was under heavy throttle or skidding in snow, Other than that it runs great transmission wise. I do gear the slip from 1st to 2nd . And get stuck in neutral on hot fluid.. Thankfully I only drive in town so I can pull off the road and restart again like I mentioned in my previous comment. PITA!!! I'm trying to get my Civic sold (Too low & small now) so I can purchase a AV6 for the swap Just in case, Hopefully I can get as lucky as you and reach 200k or so . That way I can save up for the other parts & labor or possible put towards a Toyota or a 4 cylinder Honda.
Would this be the same type of fluid for the base model ?
Yup! They both use the Honda DW-1 ATF
So these trans do not have pans that drop with filter internal?
There is no pan that drops. Only a drain bolt to change the fluid as shown in the video. While there is an external filter also shown in the video, the internal filter would only be accessible by literally removing and disassembling the entire transmission.
Incin3ration
Thanks
An 02 with 131,000 miles , one owner, 2 inch receipt pack including brand new stock exhaust, timing service , rust free and a rebuilt trans will land here in a few days
Obviously- all things trans related is an ongoing quest-
Great info, thank you!
Thanks again!
I read on diff forums that you gotta change fluid 2-3 times at once for better performance .Is that really necessary ? Any way my cl start lagging while accelerating ..it jerks when shifts between diff gears ..
I would not recommend doing 2-3 changes at once because there's a good chance all that brand new fluid at once will shock the system and you'll wash away all the particles essentially holding your transmission together. That's why you hear a lot of people say their transmission performs worse or even fails after a flush. Unless your fluid is brown or even black (which could cause those symptoms) then I might recommend doing 2 or 3 drain-and-fills, but waiting at least a good week or 2 in between each change to avoid shocking the system. Otherwise a single drain and fill once every 15,000 miles is all you need to do. It'll keep your fluid rejuvenated without ever shocking the system.
Incin3ration thanks
Do i need a oil change once i drain the oil pan
Hey my car is the same color year with leather interior but I'm having shifting issues sometimes it goes into gear and sometimes the car doesn't want to go reverse or forward but when it does it drives beautifully should I checked the trans solenoid first ?
yeah definitely check your solenoid filters if you're having any shifting problems. It's a relatively easy and free thing to do. Check out my other video on how to do that! But if you know your ATF is dirty and you'll be changing it anyways, you might as well change the ATF, ATF Filter, and clean the solenoids all in one go so you don't have to take everything apart again.
Incin3ration thanks for the reply, I'm going to do that.
have u changed the oil in your ball joints yet?
+Goomba I don't think the ball joints have grease fittings. I have replaced a front upper control arm though.
Why not remove the top bolt and fill it from there ??
Just a combination of that bolt being difficult to remove and also not wanting to mess with the oil jet recall installed there. Filling through the dip stick tube has always works perfectly fine for me!
Do you have a video on how to change coolant for 2002 Acura TL?
I do! Enjoy! ua-cam.com/video/S1qX39OTyAQ/v-deo.html
i have the same car in this pic but mine is black.... the check engine light is on and and i dont feel it shifting like it should
any suggestions
Take your car to Autozone and have them check the CEL find out what code your car is throwing. They'll do it for free and it takes less than 5 minutes. Then we'll have a much better idea of what exactly is wrong.
will lucus oil tr4amission slip help?... does this car have a trasmission strainer
I would avoid the Lucus Oil Transmission Slip. Our cars already have a hard enough time pushing the fluid through those tiny screen filters in our solenoids, especially when they become clogged. The Transmission Slip will only make the ATF thicker and harder to pump through the system.
I own a 2002 Honda Accord and its coming up on 200,000 and i used the Lucas transmission stop slip and there was a very noticeable reduction in the slipping, it has made the car slip so little a passenger wouldn't notice unless i floored it from a stop. In my opinion i would give it a try if you are at the end of a transmissions life
Lucas is ok for some trans (700R4's, older Fords, etc.) but not so much in these Honda/Acura trans.
I suggest a 3 drain fill with an full synth Honda equivalent fluid (Valvoline, Mobil1, Castrol, and more make these) and adding an ounce per quart of Lubegard Red (for Honda/Acura transmissions such as these). If you're willing, a better, slightly larger ext trans cooler wouldn't hurt either.
It's really all you can do, these transmissions are garbage imo.
I like their engines but in re to trans - if you're not a sucker with time and $ to waste I suggest avoiding these Honda/Acura vehicles. There are way smarter purchases one can make.
What the name of the fruid ?
Honda DW-1 transmission fluid
Hey, where you located?
Midwest!
good stuff. the transmissions fail because the oil lines inside are too small. I had a good trans shop that ported the oil lines and it ran for 120k without even an oil change. hence what brought me here 😂
Joshua Bradley Thanks! yah it’s also why these transmissions had an oil jet recall. There wasn’t enough fluid getting to the clutch plates. This is also why I advocate for frequent fluid changes every 15,000 miles, to keep the fluid from getting dirty and viscous. Keep that fluid clean and your car will last a long time!
Thanks man
And thank you for watching! Glad my video was helpful!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple what if the transmission is already slipping is it worth fixing or no
@@classic88warrior83 Many people’s slipping issues have gone away by changing the fluid and cleaning the solenoid screen filters. So it’s at least worth trying those 2 things for sure!
Hi, good to see your TL-S again! Mine is exactly the same color and they are so beautiful!
I am curious about how you deal with the radio issue after disconnect battery? Mine needs disconnecting antenna connector to input radio code, which requires take apart so many things. That really sucks. Let me know if you have any suggestion.
Thanks man! Aegean Blue Pearl is definitely my favorite color as well! I've only seen two other blue ones ever, so they're definitely rare, and that's another reason why I love this car so much! Yeah, when you disconnect the battery, the radio does become inaccessible. Every Acura when bought new came with an Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card with a 5 digit code number that you would simply enter into the radio after reconnecting the battery. That's what I've always done. If you don't have the code, the only other thing I could recommend is taking it to either a Honda or Acura dealership and have them get you a code so this process isn't so complicated anymore. I can't imagine what a pain in the butt that must be!
Thank you for the reply. I guess I didn't said it clear enough. My car won't accept the radio code unless I take the antenna off. Does yours accept it directly?
Ohhhh I see. Yes, my car does accept the code directly and I've done it dozens of times. I do remember one time though that for whatever reason, it would not accept the code. Normally I just turn the key to the on position and then enter the code. But for that time, I was bored driving down the freeway one day, so I decided to try again and it worked first try. I never had that problem again as it was probably just a one time fluke. You could try entering the code with the car actually running. You never know. Otherwise, I might recommend getting two antenna extension cables so you don't have to take apart your center console and dash just to get back there. You would attach one extension to the antenna and the other extension to the head unit, then connect both extensions to each other and lead your new connection point somewhere easily accessible. I hope that makes sense!
Junqi Zhuo I have an 03 type S myself and your radio code issue you're having or had if you got it fixed doesn't sound normal at all. I've never heard of this before that unless you take your antenna off in order for your car to accept the factory radio code that just doesn't make sense to me why you would have to do all that to get your music going. If you haven't gotten this taken care of why don't you just upgrade to an aftermarket CD player or out in a double din DVD screen. Definitely worth it especially how cheap they are now a days! God I just made myself sound super old. LMAO!
Haha, thank you for reply. This symptom is actually common for 03 tl-s from what I have heard on a forum. I decided to buy a antena noise suppressor(basically a inline filter) which at least can serve as a switch for me. And the audio has face plate that won't be able to migrate to a aftermarket one. sigh...
How many qt it that’s I put 5 qts is that right
A single drain and fill for the transmission fluid is 3 quarts
It a 2003 TL 3.2L Acura the auto parts said 5 to 7 qts. I would have to take out Some right thank you
@@henrypagan6657 the entire capacity for the transmission is 7.6 quarts, but you can only drain and fill 3 quarts at a time. If your fluid is extra dirty and dark, you could do one drain and fill, drive your car for a week, and do another drain and fill.
Wow thanks 🙏 I just did what you said everything you said is right you explain really good. Thank you. I changed the oil did not change the filter can I sill do it now.
You can change the filter any time! Preferably after changing the ATF, which you already did