I just found what I think is a much better fix for my problem. This P0740 came back after 2 years and created a serious hesitation shifting from 1st to 2nd. I replaced the two shift sensors (known as A&B or B&C) located directly below the starter. It required removing the starter, but overall easier access than the solenoids in this video. The parts were $35 for both. The result was immediate and dramatic - shifting problem is completely gone! I'm going to make a video of how to do that. There are apparently several variations of this engine so yours may be different, but if you're experiencing hard shifts, then I'd recommend you replace all the solenoids.
I'm on my third transmission on my 1999 Odyssey with only 157,000 miles on it. Same problems each home. I think I may just do your fixes myself this time. Looking forward to seeing your video soon! Thank you so much!
So i have a 99 honda accord and i put it on drive and it wont even go past first gear tries to go to 2nd gear and it feels like the transmission locks up it brakes on its own what can it be?
Thanks to you I have been able to fix the problem of my automatic B7XA in my Honda Accord V6 3.0, year 1999, 235.000 km. The symptoms I presented in my case was that the second up speed came late and very abrupt, especially cold. I was a little scared initially because I thought the box had a major breakdown but fortunately they were the microfilters of the four selenoids plugged with dirt as described in their video. My fault was that it took me a long time to change the ATF of the box, finally being in a dark color, a symptom of the oxidation of the oil when losing its lubricating properties. I could also do it without removing the water cuff, although in my vehicle is a little more laborious than yours, I recognize that the access is a bit complicated. Now my Honda runs the changes in cold very sweetly and without abruptness. I changed ATF twice in a row. Now, after a few kilometers traveled I go for the third change to get the crystalline red color. Greetings from the Canary Islands, Spain.
The trick for keeping an Odyssey Transmission alive and reliabe is changing the fluid (drain and fill) every time you change your motor oil. A dipstick vaccuum tool costs roughly $80. Although it won't remove all the oil, the amount it removes is adequate for an effective partial fluid replacement. I have kept my transmission alive over 200K and it works perfect.
I have the p0740 in my 2000 Honda Odyssey no other codes , do you think changing the atf fluid and filter only would solve the problem ? I mean without doing anything hat this gentleman in the video did ?
You did a great job with this video. You didn’t use all the customary mechanic’s lingo but your message was very clear! I was impressed! There is some “ho daddy” content on you tube but your’s is not in that crowd!! Good job Sir!
You fine sir......just saved me 2500 dollars in a rebuild......followed ur steps even bought the filter and my transmission has never been better I have 270k in my accord and the transmission has never been touched till today and u have made it better than ever thank you so much for this video
I just bought a 2001 odyssey van. Shifting really hard to second and I thought the inevitable. Did a little research and ended up here. I took off the double solenoid. Cleaned the filter tubes out, and the valves. Took it for a ride around the block and I'm shifting so much smoother. On mine the longer tube filter of the two was clogged pretty badly. This saved me so much worry. I cant even express. The whole thing took about 3 hours. That 6th bolt in the back is a pita. But keep at it it can be done. I didnt take anything apart past the solenoid.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I was ready to price out a new transmission for a friend of mine and found your video. Cleaned all the screens and rinsed the solenoids like you did and the TCC works now. 332k miles and still kicking. Thanks a million.
Thanks for sharing your success. Impressive that it's still going after 300k miles! I wish I could say it permanently fixed my problem but it got me going for another 18 months.
I wanted to give an update on my repair. It's been 6 months and 2500 miles with no further problem! Your results may obviously vary, but at least in my case the fix has held up well. No return of the hard shifting, or the codes.
eksine brake cleaner is always ok. It evaporates quickly and is great for cleaning small or sensitive parts. Carb cleaner is caustic and depending on what your using it on can damage o rings and seals etc. Compressed air may also damage the solenoid, saying this because a novice may use high velocity compressed air and caution/ care should be used.
Great detailed and clear video. Thanks so much. I Just changed the linear dual solenoid this weekend and it fixed the problem right away. I replaced the solenoid WITHOUT REMOVING THE BATTERY TRAY, just the battery was removed as well as the two bolts that hold the harness on the top of the solenoid. The bolt under the hard pipe was a pain to remove even with the small extension. I didn't have any other tool, so I decided to bend the hard pipe using the extension just a little bit enough to have the socket fits well on the bold. Taking the solenoid out and putting the new one in was another pain the behind. Need to wiggle, turn left, right , just a little at a time. But with patience and trial and error, the old one was out and the new one was in. I also replaced the ATF at the same time. All was not an easy job for a non-pro but feasible.
Thanks for the video! Very professional, good lighting, and you addressed commonly asked issues. I found it to be very informative. I almost bought a 2002 with that same issue and it honestly ran great. I asked the guy at the dealership if I could run the codes at AutoZone and he agreed. He tells me, "oh that torque converter is no more than a $70 fix." Well I call one of the more reputable transmission shops based on the fact that this guy does all his own work and has like a 5 month waiting list to get service. He tells me that job is no simple fix, would be $400 minimum no matter what the case was and probably much more, and the tranny may still fail afterwards anyways! Remember that the plugs have magnetic tips and it has a oil cooler for a reason! The metal flakes need to constantly be removed from the plug, drain and fills are essential. (passive only no pressurized) Keeping fluid lines clear on this transmission is incredibly important and check your cooling fans at 100k! If you tap them with force and they turn on REPLACE THEM IMMEDIATELY. Follow what I tell you and the triple passive drain and fill you see here and you will save $5700. For the people out there that bash these transmissions just bare in mind there are several components that support their function and any one failure can destroy the tranny if neglected. I personally like three ground based drain and fills because that magnetic plug captures exactly what clogs an orafice.
WOW! Thanks so much MITEEman, I haven't seen many DIY mechanic videos with this level of detail right down to the individual connector. It's really helpful, and kinda fun to watch. Cheers!
Excellent! Thank you so much! One small correction: you called the left solenoid the lockup solenoid, and the right solenoid the linear solenoid. But, when facing the car, the left-rear solenoid (the smaller one) is called the Shift solenoid assembly (part 28200--P0Z-003 on Odyssey 2000 EX). The right solenoid (larger one) is called the linear solenoid assy (part 28250-P6H-024). The combined set is called Lock-up solenoid set (part 28020-P7X-305) and is indeed above $500 at the dealer.
I spent a Saturday replacing the two solenoid valves with new parts. It turned out, it did not solve the problem. It is a problem with the transmission. So I would caution anyone, test the old parts, like MITEEMan did, but if they look like they work, do not replace them. Likely, it is a problem with the transmission. I brought the Odyssey to a transmission shop, and they said my clutch plates were purple, meaning that they got hot. Another shop told me the same, that the Odyssey transmissions get hot, and this reduced it's life. They recommended adding a cooling system for it.
Wheni got code p0740 and said the torque converter clutch solenoid. When i do searches i have to wade through 10,000 other shift solenoids and lock up solenoids. How do i know if the same part has 10 different names and that im getting the correct part. I called hondas parts store and they said its called a dual linear something or other and costs 400 dollars. I know thats not correct. I just want someone to give me a torque converter clutch solenoid. Period. Not a shift solenoid. Not a 400 dollar thing. A torque converter clutch solenoid. Why is this so difficult? Any help is greatly appreciated. Did you get an obdii code for your problem?
I have this exact issue right now on my 2004 odyssey. It has 215k on it and has never given me any issues. TCS light was on bout a week ago and went off but the code read the exact issue here you had. I am going to attempt to do these same things you have done here and hope it removes my check engine light. As far as performance it seems to perform and shift as it has always. I did for the first time since I have owned this van changed the ATF fluid and filter bout a year ago. Your video seems very informative very good detail. Thanks and wish me luck on this repair.
Did it fix your 2004 Honda odyssey's problem? I also have 2004 Honda odyssey and having same problem (TCS + Engine light on/off) as your. I replaced the Gas Cap and error light gone away for about 6 months. Unfortunately, the error light came back on/off again. The Mechanic wants to charge me $270 for part + $40 labor. But it is ok to drive with that condition without fixing it, said he. I just want to make sure that will fix the problem before i let them do it. Thanks
Thanks for doing this video. I tackle this job over the weekend and it resolved the issue I had, same as you described. Took me about 6 hrs, but i had a 2 year old helping me.
I have a 2002 Odyssey that's slamming into second and third gear a little bit so I accelerate very lightly. I'm going to start this weekend pulling off solenoids. I was also given advice to manually shift and let up between each gear. I tried it and is very precarious trying to be exact and not overshooting the gear the shift lever moves all over. I think it was "The car guy" that gave me the advice on UA-cam.
I’m mexican but i like your good explaining your video step to step. Easy English y a lot videos , good editing. Wow 😮! I waiting cleaner up my own Honda Odissey, especially transmisión solenoids . Thanks for your help 😊! And i like the credits for every people God bless you
Wow, MITEEman--what a thorough, well-produced video. Thanks for creating and posting this. My friend's 2001 Honday Odyssey's TCS light is remaining on as well as the D4 light blinking. With the knowledge from your video, I'm going to jump in and clean out the lockout/shift solenoid and flush out the ATF system. Great idea for installing the in-line ATF filter--will do that as well.
Thanks for the vid! Quick note: Be careful with that positive cable touching metal or the negative- as it's still charged I believe. You can throw a workglove over it or something as a quick safety measure. Anyways, thanks for the info!
Good news, good vid I have a 2001 maxima p0744 code Changed the atf with Valvoline max life synthetic atf and 1 bottle of Lucus transmission fix. It’s a lot better. Still have to drive it 200-300 miles before confirming it’s fixed. I manually cleared the code to see if it comes back. And like you said change it multiple times to clean stuff out. There is an additive that is like seafom for transmissions ( add it and drive 1000 miles and change). Good deal to know I also have a Honda Odyssey but 2007 model year.
Thank you for the very clear explanation and demonstration. two questions: 1. After the "3x drain and flush", did you replace the WIX filter? I ask because after the 3x drain and flush, I would imagine a lot of gunk and junk being released and ending up in the WIX filter, and as such it would make sense to replace with a fresh filter. 2. How often should the WIX filter be replaced on going? When changing out your engine oil and filter? again thank for your video.
It's been many years but as I recall I did the flush first and then added the filter. I'm not sure how often you'd want to change the filter going forward but I would agree to change the filter after a flush. See my comment below about what I found after another 9000 miles. Good luck to you!
thanks for posting this video, today I went through the process same clean both of the selinoied put it back together, but no luck still hard shifting from first to second,and from parking to reverse!
I decided to go with Valvoline synthetic. $26 at Walmart. I got that information from Reading several Odyssey forums. Also Aisin synthetic is recommended. Thanks about 3 1/2 QTs. I'll be doing the total of four flushes. Follow up: I did the four flushes and it didn't make any difference and now my third year is out completely. I was able to drive it home on the highway I had to pull over and think about what I was going to do I decided to try shifting manually 1st and 2nd and then jumping up to D. It seemed to work okay I'm going to try that for a while because it's my only vehicle I have.
Nice video 👍 1. You should of extended your filter hoses and placed the filter in a more convenient location. 2. Installed a transmission cooler to increase the life of your transmission by 25%
I have been having the same issues. Replaced both solenoids mentioned in the video as precautionary. Worked for about a year. The TCS light along with the check engine light illuminated again while on vacation. Noticed this after 6+ hours of highway speeds. I suspect the fluid is getting to hot under these conditions. Next step, will install aftermarket oil cooler, replace fluid and attempt to get some more life out of this transmission. About to turn over 180,000 miles, suppose I'm more fortunate than most as this is the original transmission. Not ready to drop 5k on a transmission either. Good video
I took mine off to clean it, got a new gasket, reassembled, but now I can't get it to seal. I've cleaned out all the bolt holes , made sure everything was clean and straight , but it keeps leaking. Any tips?
I don't know what year you have I have a 2002 Odyssey. Clunking into gears and the torque converter appears to be completely shot but I'm able to manually shift it. No third gear went out and I Am shifting first to second and then I jump up to D. If I drive very carefully it seems to be okay for the time being because this is the only vehicle I have.
How many miles is on your odyssey? Didn't know you could splice in another filter. I haven't the slightest idea why honda does not recommend changing fluid every 30,000 or 50,000 miles. Great video 👍
My filter screens on both solenoids are filled with stuff and almost blocked, after cleaning, shifting is much improved now but the TCS light occasionally still comes on, that may cause by before doing this fix, I added one bottle of Lucas ATF fix which thick like honey and increased my ATF viscosity, but it claims to extend transmission life. I will start to replace my ATF 3 quarts of a time.
I have 2007 Honda Oddyssey EXL smooth shifting gear but has D blinking with VSA light on! I’ve changed the safety switch sensor, pressure sensor and still have the same issue! Now I have P0340, P0344 codes which is the camshaft sensor that I’m about to replace. A transmit ion specialist told me that my transition is fine so I have to change the camshaft sensor first. Any idea about the D blinking with VSA light on? You think changing the camshaft sensor will fix that and what should I do if the issue still exist after changing the camshaft sensor? Thanks in advance
I have 1997 Honda Odyssey medium not the biggest> I accidentally put the gear in reverse while in motion. It gave a sharp noise but I could keep drivinge it forward but if I engage the reverse it keeps giving a sharp and hard noise and it doesn't move in reverse. What is your recommendation, please?
I just hit the P0740 and TCS light again after 8-9000 miles and 18 months. I think the ATF filter was getting too clogged. See the video of the inspection after I cut it open. Pretty gross inside - it did its job. Search for "Wix ATF Filter Inspection" on my channel
Did you reuse the face to face gaskets as well as the internal O ring type gaskets. I checked into purchasing these gaskets from auto parts stores, and they do not carry them. Where did you get yours if you replaced the gaskets? Great video
Mine said the torque converter clutch solenoid. When i do searches i have to wade through 10,000 other shift solenoids and lock up solenoids. How do i know if the same part has 10 different names and that im getting the correct part. I called hondas parts store and they said its called a dual linear something or other and costs 400 dollars. I know thats not correct. I just want someone to give me a torque converter clutch solenoid. Period. Not a shift solenoid. Not a 400 dollar thing. A torque converter clutch solenoid. Why is this so difficult? Any help is greatly appreciated.
It is NOT well published and NOT all Honda models come with it but for some builds there is actually already installed an INLINE cooler filter on the rubber line. It is a smaller and non standard looking filter. I forget if the information is actually from HONDA or ATSG group or one of the many rebuild kits I have used but follow and look at all the rubber lines going to the cooler *usually center of vehicle attached to lower radiator support* and you might be surprised at what you find.
Thanks for the video, the best on the subject I have found so far. My fluid, solenoids screens etc. looked almost identical to yours. Followed your directions except did not take the radiator hose off. Talked with a mechanic who explained that the solenoids get gummy/clogged with debris so cleaning with brake cleaner allows the parts to work better. My A&B lockup solenoid was barely clicking when tested with 12volts. Using brake cleaner while powering freed them up and now work much better. I also used this video to test the amp draw as well ua-cam.com/video/K6xBepnSdSU/v-deo.html. I installed the inline filter, changed my fluid 4 times and color has gone from black to see through red. I have only run about 100 miles on it so far, however it shifts great without any issues. My symptoms were that the transmission would suddenly/violently downshift and upshift. Also had the p0740 error code and was told by the shop that the transmission was toast and needed to be replaced. So for about a weekend of time and $100 in parts, took and chance which seems to have paid off.
I'm glad it worked for you. I looked at that video and unfortunately, it doesn't show what it purports to show. He should have showed a solenoid which looked OK in ohms, but under load conditions the amperage didn't follow ohm's law. I guess that's possible, but that's not what he showed. He also didn't test his voltage source under load. It was an interesting aspect I hadn't considered, but unfortunately the video wasn't a clear demo.
They are available at any auto parts store. They're generic so they only come in one size/fit. It's still doing well after many months & thousands of miles.
2000 Ody 215k miles. No codes. Shifting very hard from first to 2nd. Downshift, no problems. I replaced the linear solenoid (made in China from eBay), cleaned the 3 screens. Now shifting from 1st to 2nd has considerably improved (I feel a slight "clunk") but now it has CEL ON and a P0740 code. Any thoughts/solutions? Thank you.
I just took my 09 Odyssey in to get all the solenoids replaced. I got it back and the key does not release from the ignition in park until you slam it into park. I told the shop and they said either a linkage bushing is worn out or the neutral-something-select is dead. And they had no intention of fixing the issue for me. Is this shifting linkage bushing something they would have touched during the replacement of the solenoids?
Why wouldn't you do a multiple fluid change first to get rid of as much dirty fluid/material and then do the solenoid change after that. I think it's counterproductive if you take all the time to clean the ports/screens first just to have all that dirty fluid pass through it again ??? Maybe some could make sense of sense of this for me.....kind Regards
Hi, I just bought a Honda Odyssey 1999. When it comes to the rear gear, it strokes 2 times from the one to the gear. What is the problem and what should I do?Sometimes the lights of the engine and the TCC are illuminated.please help me for this one.thank you
You can use carb cleaner but I recommend brake cleaner. Carb cleaner is generally flammable so I'd be very careful in testing the solenoids that no sparks are created.
This may fix problem for some but it did not resolve my problem after replacing this solenoid on my 2000 Odyssey. I have always been able to reset the code however as soon as my speed reaches to above 50MPG the check engine light comes on and this error P0740 will be registered.
FYI: 'doing the math" of "drain &fill": Each 'drain' leaves behind 2/3 old fluid! So after 3 d&f's, you end up with 2/3 x 2/3 x 2/3 or 8/27 or 30% old fluid...
Great Job buddy!! do you think that inslalling a filter(in the hose) would affect the original pression of the fluid flow and something go wrong with the transmission? tks
I own a 2001, and I've using these filters inline since the van went up to 120k and change them every year, that is after every other flush and refill. 190k miles and trany is good! Live in chicago with stop signs in every corner and 6 mths long winters
The filters were already clogged, so the net effect of cleaning out the filters in the solenoids and putting in this inline ATF filter should be a net positive. That junk now collects in the inline filter which has 100x the surface area and is built to handle it as opposed to the solenoid filters which are the last line of defense and too tiny.
I took out both solenoids sets and cleaned out their screens even though their were not clogged, checked the resistance and all was normal readings; and did only a 3 qt. drain and fill with Honda ATF, but I am still getting the code P0740. Any feedback would be appreciated. btw it's a 2000 Odyssey EX.
My `06 shift prob. is 3rd to 4th.....it feels as if trans is "quivering"...(shaking) instead of smooth shift, sometimes it shifts perfect....any suggestions ???? TKS.
I changed my flood and it looks good but I was told was it was long blood and it didn't move and he just put some more fluid in the transmission and now I don't move it all
I saw the video. but my odissey 2001. The engines do not work, they are as camsado. You just click but they don't work. They have no strength. This tip works. greetings 2:32
I saw the video. but my odyssey. The engines do not work, they are as camsado. You just click but they don't work. They have no strength. This tip works. greetings
Yes, I used Honda ATF from the dealer at about $9 a quart x8 = $72. My local auto parts store charges about $7.50 for a brand name ATF, so it's not that much more. I was thinking of going cheap for the first couple changes and using Honda for only the last one, but since you can only change out 1/3rd of the fluid, using anything else means there's going to be a mixture and you can't change it out like engine oil. I don't know anything about aftermarket additives. In general, the problem is clutch material clogging filters. Either this procedure gets it out and keeps it from coming back, or it's too late.
Thank you for your prompt reply. I have no real automotive experience (outside of small engine repair and carb, fluid changes, brakes) but I am study your video and the Honda dealership repair manual and plan on doing what you did. After all what do I have to lose? Thanks
Hello Mr Miteeman, I has been watching your video a few times and at minute 13:31 it supossed to be a gasket yes or not cause' in my oddy 2000 i can hear suction air noise, my oddy doesn´t have it, i check a new part on ebay and the part does have the gasket, any idea.thanks.
I changed my linear solenoid without putting in a new gasket and now it’s leaking fluid. Now the car has to sit a few more days until I receive the new gasket
I have a 02 acura tl and I got p1768 code d5 flash and tcs light. the car is good on d1 to d5 but starting off of d5 the car drives but feels like its pulling off weak but good at higher speeds. idk if its a sensor or what. any help would appreciated . thanks ahead of time.
We just change both solenoid top and bottom, but my van still drive in low gear and only when the van cool down or cold it will reverse. Otherwise idle stay in below 1 and she can't reverse when engine warm up. I still have the d light blinking and engine light come on. Do I need a another trans?
Probably. If the filters were clogged your clutch friction material is probably too far gone. Mind never flashed "D" (although I've seen this in other Acuras so I know the problem). This procedure just cleans up the stuff in the fluid; it can't restore damaged friction plates.
Thanks so much for doing this. Have my fingers crossed that this will do the trick. I have a question though. In addition to the P0740 code, I am also getting a P0730 code. Any idea what the significance of this is? I think the P0730 code means "incorrect gear ratio"...... Thanks
I have the same issue.. ive read that changing to the newer dw-1 synthetic fluid works for many. seems to be a common issue on older ridgelines and largers hondas.
@@fathergratwick I solved the issue, it was a bad oil pressure solenoid aka spool valve, right behind the passenger front tire, took 30 min to change, very easy fix
I drive a 2004 Honda Accord v6 with quite a similar challenges, problem is after i removed the 10mm bolts -6 of them- I have been unable to pry off the transmission shift solenoid so i can clean it up -stuff seems like it was welded onto the trany- . Does anyone know of a technique to ease it of?
First, don't try to slide it off - those pipes keep it in position. You need to pull it straight up. I didn't have a problem with getting mine off, but heat is always a good idea. I wouldn't use a blowtorch with all that oil & gaskets. I would make sure you have a new gasket before you do anything too radical. Penetrating oil should help. A $10 Harbor Freight heat gun does wonders on a lot of stuck stuff. There's really no way for the metal to stick to metal - it's got to be the gasket sticking.
I just found what I think is a much better fix for my problem. This P0740 came back after 2 years and created a serious hesitation shifting from 1st to 2nd. I replaced the two shift sensors (known as A&B or B&C) located directly below the starter. It required removing the starter, but overall easier access than the solenoids in this video. The parts were $35 for both. The result was immediate and dramatic - shifting problem is completely gone! I'm going to make a video of how to do that. There are apparently several variations of this engine so yours may be different, but if you're experiencing hard shifts, then I'd recommend you replace all the solenoids.
I have a 2001 Honda accord V6 which has the exact same problems(seems to have identical solenoids). I am awaiting your video :)
I'm on my third transmission on my 1999 Odyssey with only 157,000 miles on it. Same problems each home. I think I may just do your fixes myself this time. Looking forward to seeing your video soon! Thank you so much!
So i have a 99 honda accord and i put it on drive and it wont even go past first gear tries to go to 2nd gear and it feels like the transmission locks up it brakes on its own what can it be?
does your gears blink in the dashboard?
@@danieleller1108 they dont blink
Thanks to you I have been able to fix the problem of my automatic B7XA in my Honda Accord V6 3.0, year 1999, 235.000 km. The symptoms I presented in my case was that the second up speed came late and very abrupt, especially cold. I was a little scared initially because I thought the box had a major breakdown but fortunately they were the microfilters of the four selenoids plugged with dirt as described in their video. My fault was that it took me a long time to change the ATF of the box, finally being in a dark color, a symptom of the oxidation of the oil when losing its lubricating properties. I could also do it without removing the water cuff, although in my vehicle is a little more laborious than yours, I recognize that the access is a bit complicated. Now my Honda runs the changes in cold very sweetly and without abruptness. I changed ATF twice in a row. Now, after a few kilometers traveled I go for the third change to get the crystalline red color. Greetings from the Canary Islands, Spain.
The trick for keeping an Odyssey Transmission alive and reliabe is changing the fluid (drain and fill) every time you change your motor oil. A dipstick vaccuum tool costs roughly $80. Although it won't remove all the oil, the amount it removes is adequate for an effective partial fluid replacement. I have kept my transmission alive over 200K and it works perfect.
I have the p0740 in my 2000 Honda Odyssey no other codes , do you think changing the atf fluid and filter only would solve the problem ? I mean without doing anything hat this gentleman in the video did ?
Even with High Mileage? because I am in the Market for one
You did a great job with this video. You didn’t use all the customary mechanic’s lingo but your message was very clear! I was impressed! There is some “ho daddy” content on you tube but your’s is not in that crowd!! Good job Sir!
You fine sir......just saved me 2500 dollars in a rebuild......followed ur steps even bought the filter and my transmission has never been better I have 270k in my accord and the transmission has never been touched till today and u have made it better than ever thank you so much for this video
Rafael Mendoza bro what year is your accord? I’m getting a p0747 code it is “Pressure control, Solenoid A stuck on”.. help
I have 163k on my 06 TL. The trans fluid is dirty. I'm on the fence about changing it. Can anyone tell me if I should leave it alone or Change it?
I just bought a 2001 odyssey van. Shifting really hard to second and I thought the inevitable. Did a little research and ended up here. I took off the double solenoid. Cleaned the filter tubes out, and the valves. Took it for a ride around the block and I'm shifting so much smoother. On mine the longer tube filter of the two was clogged pretty badly. This saved me so much worry. I cant even express. The whole thing took about 3 hours. That 6th bolt in the back is a pita. But keep at it it can be done. I didnt take anything apart past the solenoid.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I was ready to price out a new transmission for a friend of mine and found your video. Cleaned all the screens and rinsed the solenoids like you did and the TCC works now. 332k miles and still kicking. Thanks a million.
Thanks for sharing your success. Impressive that it's still going after 300k miles! I wish I could say it permanently fixed my problem but it got me going for another 18 months.
I wanted to give an update on my repair. It's been 6 months and 2500 miles with no further problem! Your results may obviously vary, but at least in my case the fix has held up well. No return of the hard shifting, or the codes.
What spray did you use to clean the solenoid? Also, what is that thing that has "FLOW" in white letters?
he used carb or brake cleaner, but probably safer to use compressed air from a compressor
Excellent video, thank you, I still can't remove the dual solenoid bolt underneath the metal pipe, will try again latter.
eksine brake cleaner is always ok. It evaporates quickly and is great for cleaning small or sensitive parts. Carb cleaner is caustic and depending on what your using it on can damage o rings and seals etc. Compressed air may also damage the solenoid, saying this because a novice may use high velocity compressed air and caution/ care should be used.
What did you use to clean the solenoids, was that carb cleaner?
Great detailed and clear video. Thanks so much. I Just changed the linear dual solenoid this weekend and it fixed the problem right away. I replaced the solenoid WITHOUT REMOVING THE BATTERY TRAY, just the battery was removed as well as the two bolts that hold the harness on the top of the solenoid. The bolt under the hard pipe was a pain to remove even with the small extension. I didn't have any other tool, so I decided to bend the hard pipe using the extension just a little bit enough to have the socket fits well on the bold. Taking the solenoid out and putting the new one in was another pain the behind. Need to wiggle, turn left, right , just a little at a time. But with patience and trial and error, the old one was out and the new one was in. I also replaced the ATF at the same time. All was not an easy job for a non-pro but feasible.
Thanks for the video! Very professional, good lighting, and you addressed commonly asked issues. I found it to be very informative.
I almost bought a 2002 with that same issue and it honestly ran great. I asked the guy at the dealership if I could run the codes at AutoZone and he agreed. He tells me, "oh that torque converter is no more than a $70 fix."
Well I call one of the more reputable transmission shops based on the fact that this guy does all his own work and has like a 5 month waiting list to get service. He tells me that job is no simple fix, would be $400 minimum no matter what the case was and probably much more, and the tranny may still fail afterwards anyways!
Remember that the plugs have magnetic tips and it has a oil cooler for a reason! The metal flakes need to constantly be removed from the plug, drain and fills are essential. (passive only no pressurized) Keeping fluid lines clear on this transmission is incredibly important and check your cooling fans at 100k! If you tap them with force and they turn on REPLACE THEM IMMEDIATELY. Follow what I tell you and the triple passive drain and fill you see here and you will save $5700.
For the people out there that bash these transmissions just bare in mind there are several components that support their function and any one failure can destroy the tranny if neglected. I personally like three ground based drain and fills because that magnetic plug captures exactly what clogs an orafice.
WOW! Thanks so much MITEEman, I haven't seen many DIY mechanic videos with this level of detail right down to the individual connector. It's really helpful, and kinda fun to watch. Cheers!
Excellent! Thank you so much! One small correction: you called the left solenoid the lockup solenoid, and the right solenoid the linear solenoid. But, when facing the car, the left-rear solenoid (the smaller one) is called the Shift solenoid assembly (part 28200--P0Z-003 on Odyssey 2000 EX). The right solenoid (larger one) is called the linear solenoid assy (part 28250-P6H-024). The combined set is called Lock-up solenoid set (part 28020-P7X-305) and is indeed above $500 at the dealer.
I spent a Saturday replacing the two solenoid valves with new parts. It turned out, it did not solve the problem. It is a problem with the transmission. So I would caution anyone, test the old parts, like MITEEMan did, but if they look like they work, do not replace them. Likely, it is a problem with the transmission. I brought the Odyssey to a transmission shop, and they said my clutch plates were purple, meaning that they got hot. Another shop told me the same, that the Odyssey transmissions get hot, and this reduced it's life. They recommended adding a cooling system for it.
Wheni got code p0740 and said the torque converter clutch solenoid. When i do searches i have to wade through 10,000 other shift solenoids and lock up solenoids. How do i know if the same part has 10 different names and that im getting the correct part. I called hondas parts store and they said its called a dual linear something or other and costs 400 dollars. I know thats not correct. I just want someone to give me a torque converter clutch solenoid. Period. Not a shift solenoid. Not a 400 dollar thing. A torque converter clutch solenoid. Why is this so difficult? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Did you get an obdii code for your problem?
@@dudeivealreadydonethis5tim289Facts. I got the same code.
I have this exact issue right now on my 2004 odyssey. It has 215k on it and has never given me any issues. TCS light was on bout a week ago and went off but the code read the exact issue here you had. I am going to attempt to do these same things you have done here and hope it removes my check engine light. As far as performance it seems to perform and shift as it has always. I did for the first time since I have owned this van changed the ATF fluid and filter bout a year ago. Your video seems very informative very good detail. Thanks and wish me luck on this repair.
Did it fix your 2004 Honda odyssey's problem? I also have 2004 Honda odyssey and having same problem (TCS + Engine light on/off) as your. I replaced the Gas Cap and error light gone away for about 6 months. Unfortunately, the error light came back on/off again. The Mechanic wants to charge me $270 for part + $40 labor. But it is ok to drive with that condition without fixing it, said he. I just want to make sure that will fix the problem before i let them do it. Thanks
Thanks for doing this video. I tackle this job over the weekend and it resolved the issue I had, same as you described.
Took me about 6 hrs, but i had a 2 year old helping me.
I have a 2002 Odyssey that's slamming into second and third gear a little bit so I accelerate very lightly. I'm going to start this weekend pulling off solenoids.
I was also given advice to manually shift and let up between each gear.
I tried it and is very precarious trying to be exact and not overshooting the gear the shift lever moves all over. I think it was "The car guy" that gave me the advice on UA-cam.
Man...there is a God that creates geniuses like yourself. My hometown hates me but this is love man!very very great teacher!.bless up
Well done video, your articulation and explanation is above standard, perhaps excellent. Thank you for this informative instructional video.
I’m mexican but i like your good explaining your video step to step. Easy English y a lot videos , good editing.
Wow 😮!
I waiting cleaner up my own Honda Odissey, especially transmisión solenoids .
Thanks for your help 😊!
And i like the credits for every people
God bless you
Thank you for your attention to detail. And clear information. That's what makes a good tutorial.
Wow, MITEEman--what a thorough, well-produced video. Thanks for creating and posting this.
My friend's 2001 Honday Odyssey's TCS light is remaining on as well as the D4 light blinking. With the knowledge from your video, I'm going to jump in and clean out the lockout/shift solenoid and flush out the ATF system. Great idea for installing the in-line ATF filter--will do that as well.
Thanks for the vid!
Quick note:
Be careful with that positive cable touching metal or the negative- as it's still charged I believe.
You can throw a workglove over it or something as a quick safety measure.
Anyways, thanks for the info!
Good news, good vid
I have a 2001 maxima p0744 code
Changed the atf with Valvoline max life synthetic atf and 1 bottle of Lucus transmission fix. It’s a lot better. Still have to drive it 200-300 miles before confirming it’s fixed. I manually cleared the code to see if it comes back.
And like you said change it multiple times to clean stuff out. There is an additive that is like seafom for
transmissions ( add it and drive 1000 miles and change).
Good deal to know
I also have a Honda Odyssey but 2007 model year.
I have found that using 10mm offset wrench to remove the linear solenoid bolt under metal pipe and the lock solenoid inside bolt fairly easy.
Thank you for the very clear explanation and demonstration. two questions:
1. After the "3x drain and flush", did you replace the WIX filter? I ask because after the 3x drain and flush, I would imagine a lot of gunk and junk being released and ending up in the WIX filter, and as such it would make sense to replace with a fresh filter.
2. How often should the WIX filter be replaced on going? When changing out your engine oil and filter?
again thank for your video.
It's been many years but as I recall I did the flush first and then added the filter. I'm not sure how often you'd want to change the filter going forward but I would agree to change the filter after a flush. See my comment below about what I found after another 9000 miles. Good luck to you!
Excellent video, thanks for your solid understanding and clear instructions.
thanks for posting this video, today I went through the process same clean both of the selinoied put it back together, but no luck still hard shifting from first to second,and from parking to reverse!
Did you ever get this fixed florimba j
What did you end up doing?
Unfortunately replacing the part's did not fix the issue.! If,and when I fix this I'll be happy to share the information good luck to you all..
I decided to go with Valvoline synthetic. $26 at Walmart. I got that information from Reading several Odyssey forums. Also Aisin synthetic is recommended. Thanks about 3 1/2 QTs. I'll be doing the total of four flushes.
Follow up: I did the four flushes and it didn't make any difference and now my third year is out completely. I was able to drive it home on the highway I had to pull over and think about what I was going to do I decided to try shifting manually 1st and 2nd and then jumping up to D. It seemed to work okay I'm going to try that for a while because it's my only vehicle I have.
Nice video 👍
1. You should of extended your filter hoses and placed the filter in a more convenient location.
2. Installed a transmission cooler to increase the life of your transmission by 25%
Very useful, helped me work out the issues on my 2004 Odyssey
I don't remember him saying what year it was and mines a 04 😊
I have been having the same issues. Replaced both solenoids mentioned in the video as precautionary. Worked for about a year. The TCS light along with the check engine light illuminated again while on vacation. Noticed this after 6+ hours of highway speeds. I suspect the fluid is getting to hot under these conditions. Next step, will install aftermarket oil cooler, replace fluid and attempt to get some more life out of this transmission. About to turn over 180,000 miles, suppose I'm more fortunate than most as this is the original transmission. Not ready to drop 5k on a transmission either. Good video
@johnny Macon wow, Thank You !! That's Great to know, I just got a 02 Odyssey, Trying to get info on everything. Thanks Again !!!
I took mine off to clean it, got a new gasket, reassembled, but now I can't get it to seal. I've cleaned out all the bolt holes , made sure everything was clean and straight , but it keeps leaking. Any tips?
excellent video without this video i can't make it thru to my 99 acura cl Thanks a lot for sharing your experience.
I don't know what year you have I have a 2002 Odyssey. Clunking into gears and the torque converter appears to be completely shot but I'm able to manually shift it. No third gear went out and I Am shifting first to second and then I jump up to D. If I drive very carefully it seems to be okay for the time being because this is the only vehicle I have.
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good and very good teacher 👌🙂
How many miles is on your odyssey? Didn't know you could splice in another filter. I haven't the slightest idea why honda does not recommend changing fluid every 30,000 or 50,000 miles. Great video 👍
My filter screens on both solenoids are filled with stuff and almost blocked, after cleaning, shifting is much improved now but the TCS light occasionally still comes on, that may cause by before doing this fix, I added one bottle of Lucas ATF fix which thick like honey and increased my ATF viscosity, but it claims to extend transmission life. I will start to replace my ATF 3 quarts of a time.
@duke n any updates??
My 99 Honda odyssey is having similar issues. My drive light is blinking. I think my eld unit is gone also. Over 200k miles too.
you have a very good video, tomorrow I will spend checking your car in the same sequence
I have 2007 Honda Oddyssey EXL smooth shifting gear but has D blinking with VSA light on! I’ve changed the safety switch sensor, pressure sensor and still have the same issue! Now I have P0340, P0344 codes which is the camshaft sensor that I’m about to replace. A transmit ion specialist told me that my transition is fine so I have to change the camshaft sensor first. Any idea about the D blinking with VSA light on? You think changing the camshaft sensor will fix that and what should I do if the issue still exist after changing the camshaft sensor? Thanks in advance
I have 1997 Honda Odyssey medium not the biggest> I accidentally put the gear in reverse while in motion. It gave a sharp noise but I could keep drivinge it forward but if I engage the reverse it keeps giving a sharp and hard noise and it doesn't move in reverse. What is your recommendation, please?
I just hit the P0740 and TCS light again after 8-9000 miles and 18 months. I think the ATF filter was getting too clogged. See the video of the inspection after I cut it open. Pretty gross inside - it did its job. Search for "Wix ATF Filter Inspection" on my channel
Hello friend, could you tell me where you connect the filter that you put to know where to connect it, thanks
My friend is 80yrs old with an 06 Odyssey, light shudder around 40mph, BAD shudder around 50-60mph.
Will this help?
Hi sir, ty for the video I learn a lot,may I know which cleaner you used,thanks
2000 Honda oddesy 1st to 2nd. Have let go gas so can shift into second and some times kicks between 3rd and 4th .. Would this be same issues?
Did you reuse the face to face gaskets as well as the internal O ring type gaskets. I checked into purchasing these gaskets from auto parts stores, and they do not carry them. Where did you get yours if you replaced the gaskets? Great video
Mine said the torque converter clutch solenoid. When i do searches i have to wade through 10,000 other shift solenoids and lock up solenoids. How do i know if the same part has 10 different names and that im getting the correct part. I called hondas parts store and they said its called a dual linear something or other and costs 400 dollars. I know thats not correct. I just want someone to give me a torque converter clutch solenoid. Period. Not a shift solenoid. Not a 400 dollar thing. A torque converter clutch solenoid. Why is this so difficult? Any help is greatly appreciated.
hey I'm having problem with my 03 honda pilot similar to your did your solve the problem?
It is NOT well published and NOT all Honda models come with it but for some builds there is actually already installed an INLINE cooler filter on the rubber line. It is a smaller and non standard looking filter. I forget if the information is actually from HONDA or ATSG group or one of the many rebuild kits I have used but follow and look at all the rubber lines going to the cooler *usually center of vehicle attached to lower radiator support* and you might be surprised at what you find.
I also saw that some may have one installed by the factory but it's not true for the original 1999's.
@@miteeman going as far back to a 1998 Honda Accord, 3.0 v6 had them.
Thanks for the video, the best on the subject I have found so far. My fluid, solenoids screens etc. looked almost identical to yours. Followed your directions except did not take the radiator hose off. Talked with a mechanic who explained that the solenoids get gummy/clogged with debris so cleaning with brake cleaner allows the parts to work better. My A&B lockup solenoid was barely clicking when tested with 12volts. Using brake cleaner while powering freed them up and now work much better. I also used this video to test the amp draw as well ua-cam.com/video/K6xBepnSdSU/v-deo.html. I installed the inline filter, changed my fluid 4 times and color has gone from black to see through red. I have only run about 100 miles on it so far, however it shifts great without any issues. My symptoms were that the transmission would suddenly/violently downshift and upshift. Also had the p0740 error code and was told by the shop that the transmission was toast and needed to be replaced. So for about a weekend of time and $100 in parts, took and chance which seems to have paid off.
I'm glad it worked for you. I looked at that video and unfortunately, it doesn't show what it purports to show. He should have showed a solenoid which looked OK in ohms, but under load conditions the amperage didn't follow ohm's law. I guess that's possible, but that's not what he showed. He also didn't test his voltage source under load. It was an interesting aspect I hadn't considered, but unfortunately the video wasn't a clear demo.
TF89 hey how can I find the inline filter and how is your transmission doing I have the same exact symptoms and I'm going to run this procedure
They are available at any auto parts store. They're generic so they only come in one size/fit. It's still doing well after many months & thousands of miles.
MITEEman thank you
TF89
2000 Ody 215k miles. No codes. Shifting very hard from first to 2nd. Downshift, no problems.
I replaced the linear solenoid (made in China from eBay), cleaned the 3 screens. Now shifting from 1st to 2nd has considerably improved (I feel a slight "clunk") but now it has CEL ON and a P0740 code.
Any thoughts/solutions? Thank you.
I just took my 09 Odyssey in to get all the solenoids replaced. I got it back and the key does not release from the ignition in park until you slam it into park. I told the shop and they said either a linkage bushing is worn out or the neutral-something-select is dead. And they had no intention of fixing the issue for me. Is this shifting linkage bushing something they would have touched during the replacement of the solenoids?
thanks for this video it was very helpful. it saved me time.
great vid
where did u get the parts
Why wouldn't you do a multiple fluid change first to get rid of as much dirty fluid/material and then do the solenoid change after that. I think it's counterproductive if you take all the time to clean the ports/screens first just to have all that dirty fluid pass through it again ??? Maybe some could make sense of sense of this for me.....kind Regards
Great video, thorough and realistic vidéo.
Hi, I just bought a Honda Odyssey 1999. When it comes to the rear gear, it strokes 2 times from the one to the gear. What is the problem and what should I do?Sometimes the lights of the engine and the TCC are illuminated.please help me for this one.thank you
What did you use to test the solenoids? A continuity tester, multimeter? I don’t know I’m a noob
You can also pull the transmission lines to and you can get more fluid out.
My TCS light come on and goes off.i have no money until I get a job. What do you think and how long can I drive.
Great video, what was the spray solution you were using to clean the solenoid?
You can use carb cleaner but I recommend brake cleaner. Carb cleaner is generally flammable so I'd be very careful in testing the solenoids that no sparks are created.
How to fix the transmission is the TCS? Honda 2002 odyssey
Nice job, MITEEman. Thank you.
This may fix problem for some but it did not resolve my problem after replacing this solenoid on my 2000 Odyssey. I have always been able to reset the code however as soon as my speed reaches to above 50MPG the check engine light comes on and this error P0740 will be registered.
Did you fix it ? Can you please tell me what you did
Do you have any solution yet, my speed reaches to above 80KM The check engine light comes on and this error P0740 will be registered.
12:32, is this solenoid found on a 2002 5sp Automatic Ody? Can't seem to find it on my 02.
Thank you for the very useful details
Tip if you get a d light flashing and no reverse check the fuse number 31.
FYI: 'doing the math" of "drain &fill":
Each 'drain' leaves behind 2/3 old fluid!
So after 3 d&f's, you end up with 2/3 x 2/3 x 2/3 or 8/27 or 30% old fluid...
Great Job buddy!! do you think that inslalling a filter(in the hose) would affect the original pression of the fluid flow and something go wrong with the transmission? tks
I own a 2001, and I've using these filters inline since the van went up to 120k and change them every year, that is after every other flush and refill. 190k miles and trany is good! Live in chicago with stop signs in every corner and 6 mths long winters
The filters were already clogged, so the net effect of cleaning out the filters in the solenoids and putting in this inline ATF filter should be a net positive. That junk now collects in the inline filter which has 100x the surface area and is built to handle it as opposed to the solenoid filters which are the last line of defense and too tiny.
I took out both solenoids sets and cleaned out their screens even though their were not clogged, checked the resistance and all was normal readings; and did only a 3 qt. drain and fill with Honda ATF, but I am still getting the code P0740. Any feedback would be appreciated. btw it's a 2000 Odyssey EX.
Well think about it your not working on a UFO...
My `06 shift prob. is 3rd to 4th.....it feels as if trans is "quivering"...(shaking) instead of smooth shift, sometimes it shifts perfect....any suggestions ???? TKS.
These shaking events are discussed in other sites, general on line searches... means tranny is in danger... needs quick attention.
Oh my God thanks for share this info God bless you ❤
I have a 06 Honda Odyssey and all shift work but drive shift no engine soon lights on
I wonder if my 04 pilot is similar, and if so did doing this solve the problem?
Wouldn't that in line filter restrict flow.
please mention which engine, 4 or 6 are different.
great video well articulated and informative
My Honda Civic won't go into 1st gear 2nd 3rd reverse or drive on it won't do nothing what can I do
I changed my flood and it looks good but I was told was it was long blood and it didn't move and he just put some more fluid in the transmission and now I don't move it all
What spray is that?
This video is good except for one thing does anybody know what year is this Honda Odyssey is?
I have a 2000 and it looks the same as mine and the fix worked on mine. So this should work on 2004 and older
If you watched through the video and read the post script, you'll find that it's a 1999.
I saw the video. but my odissey 2001. The engines do not work, they are as camsado. You just click but they don't work. They have no strength. This tip works. greetings 2:32
I saw the video. but my odyssey. The engines do not work, they are as camsado. You just click but they don't work. They have no strength. This tip works. greetings
mine says code p0740 C/T clutch malfunctioning...will it be the same issue?
Did you use Honda ATF? Also would you recommend using Lucas Oil Stop Slip?
Yes, I used Honda ATF from the dealer at about $9 a quart x8 = $72. My local auto parts store charges about $7.50 for a brand name ATF, so it's not that much more. I was thinking of going cheap for the first couple changes and using Honda for only the last one, but since you can only change out 1/3rd of the fluid, using anything else means there's going to be a mixture and you can't change it out like engine oil.
I don't know anything about aftermarket additives. In general, the problem is clutch material clogging filters. Either this procedure gets it out and keeps it from coming back, or it's too late.
Thank you for your prompt reply. I have no real automotive experience (outside of small engine repair and carb, fluid changes, brakes) but I am study your video and the Honda dealership repair manual and plan on doing what you did. After all what do I have to lose? Thanks
TheTactiFool Your patience,then your mind.
What was the original concern here ?
Your link in description is wrong btw. For the updated 2 shift solenoids. (you link this video).
Here's the link for the updated video: ua-cam.com/video/CxRiCfLmCRI/v-deo.html
Hello Mr Miteeman, I has been watching your video a few times and at minute 13:31 it supossed to be a gasket yes or not cause' in my oddy 2000 i can hear suction air noise, my oddy doesn´t have it, i check a new part on ebay and the part does have the gasket, any idea.thanks.
I changed my linear solenoid without putting in a new gasket and now it’s leaking fluid. Now the car has to sit a few more days until I receive the new gasket
Where did you buy the gasket?
Chandrashekhar Patel I went to Honda dealership
I have a 02 acura tl and I got p1768 code d5 flash and tcs light. the car is good on d1 to d5 but starting off of d5 the car drives but feels like its pulling off weak but good at higher speeds. idk if its a sensor or what. any help would appreciated . thanks ahead of time.
We just change both solenoid top and bottom, but my van still drive in low gear and only when the van cool down or cold it will reverse. Otherwise idle stay in below 1 and she can't reverse when engine warm up. I still have the d light blinking and engine light come on. Do I need a another trans?
Probably. If the filters were clogged your clutch friction material is probably too far gone. Mind never flashed "D" (although I've seen this in other Acuras so I know the problem). This procedure just cleans up the stuff in the fluid; it can't restore damaged friction plates.
Thanks so much for doing this. Have my fingers crossed that this will do the trick. I have a question though. In addition to the P0740 code, I am also getting a P0730 code. Any idea what the significance of this is? I think the P0730 code means "incorrect gear ratio"......
Thanks
What year is this Odyssey?
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you!
but you never show up the kind of metter do you use to tested it the solenoides... thank you for share .
any voltmeter / ohmmeter. I was using one from Harbor Freight. You can find a coupon for a free one with any purchase in many of their ads.
Great video 😎👍
Thanks !
What was the issue? My gear changes buckle on me when driving. Is this it?
I have the same issue.. ive read that changing to the newer dw-1 synthetic fluid works for many. seems to be a common issue on older ridgelines and largers hondas.
@@fathergratwick I solved the issue, it was a bad oil pressure solenoid aka spool valve, right behind the passenger front tire, took 30 min to change, very easy fix
Disculpa yo tengo ina odyseey 2000 y tengo ese problema. .como pido ese filtro de transmision que nadie sabe aqui que es.
Agradecere tu respuesta
transmission solenoid gasket
Great detailed video. 👍
I drive a 2004 Honda Accord v6 with quite a similar challenges, problem is after i removed the 10mm bolts -6 of them- I have been unable to pry off the transmission shift solenoid so i can clean it up -stuff seems like it was welded onto the trany- . Does anyone know of a technique to ease it of?
Rexi tube Odafe I’m having the same problem. Bout to go try to pry in out with a flathead.
First, don't try to slide it off - those pipes keep it in position. You need to pull it straight up. I didn't have a problem with getting mine off, but heat is always a good idea. I wouldn't use a blowtorch with all that oil & gaskets. I would make sure you have a new gasket before you do anything too radical. Penetrating oil should help. A $10 Harbor Freight heat gun does wonders on a lot of stuck stuff. There's really no way for the metal to stick to metal - it's got to be the gasket sticking.
Was there any noises the transmission was making when you had problems?
No
Oh man!!! My civic is done
what's the torque of those bolts?