Greetings! Those 5 sided inserts are actually adjustable to increase/decrease activation pressure. A company called Sonnax makes the tool and describes what A and B control, and how adjusting them will affect performance. I actually have a 2002 MDX with a 2nd to 3rd shift issue. Turned solenoid A up a quarter turn and bingo.
I have the exact same problem with my 08 Honda Pilot except it's 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gears. You think that this is also the solenoid or something else? Also, what does it mean to simply "turn the solenoid? I'm not mechanically inclined at all. Thanks!
I always saw that when i worked on automotive. I worked for a Ford, a mercedes and a chrysler dealer. Me and my colleagues got frustrated many times trying to replicate customers' complaints.
@@ItsAlive111 they were probably just lazy fucks that dont really care about their job and didnt want to work on your car because it would take long. They probably wanted a fast job to get paid. I also learned that to be a good technician you have to be an enthusiast as well. Otherwise, they wont give a rat's ass about anybody's car.
Had a similar issue on my 03 Accord EXV6 coupe. Changing out the ATF warmer filter and checking the banjo oil jet bolt. For particles of broken filter materials. And changing out the fluid and lastly checking the A/B linear solenoid. Helped it. After it was fixed sold it for Newer Sedan model. Great car it was
I just did a bunch of work to my friend's '08 Honda Element, her rig had 145K miles on it, did a trans service after the dreaded starter change and used Honda OEM filter and DW1 ATF, bought a case and flushed out the old nasty fluid(which looked like coffee)by taking off the trans cooler line before the filter, used a length of 3/8" clear hose and pumped it into a 3 gallon clear plastic jug 2 qts. at a time, shut engine off/refilled again until I ran 8 qts thru it or new ATF visible in the clear hose. Install new filter after doing the service and add 3 qts to sump, warmed up fluid as per factory manual and set fluid level at the full mark. This gets all the nasty old oil out of the converter and does not harm the trans, just make sure to immediately shut off engine if you see any bubbles in the clear hose while draining! This car's trans shifts about 75 to 100% better as a result! Thanks for the great tutorial on this car! Previous videos have been very helpful, especially the starter R/R on these cars!
Thanks for your video. I had the exact same problem but much much more severe. The 1-2 shift would have a hesitation of about a second and then would literally slam hard into second once it shifted. The 2-3 shift was even worse. The hesitation was more like 3-4 seconds and you would have to carefully feather the gas to get it to shift w/o first over revving the engine. I was able to get ahold of another used pair of shift solenoids and replaced them exactly as you did and now the car shifts like it was new. I want to add that my Element has 407K actual miles on it and this is a testament to how tough built these transmissions are! I was very fearful I was in for a trans replacement but in under an hour of labor that problem is now a ting of the past. Thanks again.
Mine does that SAME THING. It also has an ever increasing "whine" noise .... only in first n second gears though. Three transm places/ "experts" say replace it. But I should give changing the solenoids a shot first. Yes???
I helped my daughter years back 👍🏻 one ice road night a car hit her 91’ Honda accord Parked on the curb & a car hit the front end bad enough That the insurance company Totaled it 😳I bought it back and replaced all front end parts from the Junk yard 👍🏻 saved it . Same color too 👍🏻
Easy fixes are always nice instead of transaxle replacement. I agree that sometimes resistance measurements are not always definitive. Solenoid may just be weak or slightly binding in the bore.
Before I even watched the video I suspected a possible corroded ground might be responsible for the solenoids malfunctioning. Just like Eric mentioning the "stronger" starter response, a bad ground increases resistance and can cause a lot of havoc with electrical systems. I've replaced that same ground wire on both of my Elements (03 & 06) because they were in just as bad shape because I was having VTEC issues - another system that relies on proper solenoid operation. Regardless, ETCG produces another high quality and informative video. Thanks again!
Great video, Eric. My 2000 Honda Civic (project car) had been stored for 7 years before I rebuilt the front end from an accident. After getting it back on the road, I experienced this and splippage between 2nd and 3rd gear. I was told that it was most likely due to the clutch plates drying out from sitting so long, and that it would go away. I've driven it for a year now. The slippage has mostly gone away, but I still get the same delay and surge into 3rd gear as you demonstrated. I'll check the car out now and see if that will fix it. Thanks for always educating and showing how it's done.
I have a 2003 Element with 200K on it. Owned since new. By far the best car I have ever owned. My Element hold the first to second shift along with a high pitch whine. I think it is the shift solenoid. All maintenance was done on time or early including numerous automatic fluid and filter changes by the dealer or my very good Honda mechanic (the fluid and filter changes are cheap and easy so why not?). Last week I changed the original coils (third cylinder was throwing an occasional misfire. I bought OEM Denso coils and replaced the second set of plugs since new with new OEM NGK plugs. Wow! The car runs so much better and it seems the transmission shifts better (might be my hopeful mind). Sadly the delayed shifting from first to second is still there.
I just picked up a 2004 honda odyssey with 114k on original transmission. So far have done two ATF changes, changed inline filter on top of transmission. Today I am adding a Tru-cool 4544 transmission cooler. The transmission is working fine rite now but I read some threads highly recommending doing the things I have done. Oh and I'm using Valvoline ATF max life Red jug.
I had a 2003 Odyssey with the failure prone tranny. Mine was original and it went 360k and the dealership was amazed every time I brought it in which was rare. I did the exact same as you but also added a magnefine ATF filter and used Amsoil ATF, the Valvoline you used is just as good in my opinion. I also added a half can of Lubegard Red to every ATF change. I changed ATF yearly and changed magnefine filter every 15-30k. I also drove it like a minivan and occ did not.
I only recommend Honda automatic transmission fluid in Honda automatics. Also, the issues with that transmission are internal and a design flaw. Your efforts may not yield the desired result, but I can't see how they could hurt. Thanks for the comment.
I had this exact car and same issue and went through identical steps, I even tried 3 sets of solenoids and additive and nothing changed. Ended up swapping transmission for about 450 bucks in the garage one afternoon and it was perfect after that.
Yes Idemitsu is the OEM trans fluid as well the power steering fluid and the differential oil. I also found out Eneos is also an oem fluid manufacturer for Honda as well .
I was having the same problem - at first just a suttle hiccup - then later it started to buck into gear - soon it was the 2nd then even 1st gear -- had a mechanic change out the vtec solenoid and the A and B solenoids- drain and fill 3x - it worked for a day but then it was bucking again . I ended going to Honda and they out in a salvaged trans - so far so good - that was about 4 months ago
After reading almost my whole service manual and seeing "write your radio code down" about 1000 times I've come to the realization that you are infact a service manual with legs and wrench twisters.
As a former mechanic your video was interesting and helpful ! 👍 I think the ground strap was necessary ! You will never know unless you switch back to your old shift solenoid when you replaced the transmission filter whether that was the problem ! ? That certainly will help others to replace the transmission filter first before doing anything else ! We live and learn !
One thing I have found over the years with Solenoids is Sludge buildup in the their cylinder bore. First insure the intake screen filter is clean. Use a non-volitile cleaner and exercise the solenoid back and forth. The Electric side seldom fails. Its just wire windings and a connector. Corrosion/breakage perhaps in extreme cases. Mechanical side has seals wear out with time and prone to sludge buildup. Neglected maintenance or excessive mileage is the major contributing factor.
Just wanted to take this time to thank you for all the knowledge and heads up on the alternative tranny fluid. Saved me alot of money not having to go to the dealership! I have an '03 2.4 accord and its pretty much same stuff different vehicle. Thanks again! 🍻
It’s funny that this video came out when it did. My 2017 ridgeline started shifting strangely, almost exactly like this, a couple weeks ago and even got stuck in third gear and wouldn’t shift until I turned it off and started it up again. Thankfully if this is what the issue is, it’s way cheaper than a new transmission. But still, it’s irritating that they haven’t come farther with their transmissions and still have the same issues. It was interesting to learn that about their auto trannys!
I have the JDM Honda Odyssey RB3 2.4i VTEC and and despite the fact that my transmission was regularly serviced (dynamic oil changes) using genuine Honda oil and filters it had recently developed this problem, but on mine is noticeable from 1 to 2 gear and only in cold weather. Once the engine warms up it's fine. Will have to do some further testing. Thanks for very informative video anyway.
Hi Eric. Been watching your channel for a long time now. Just wanted r to give you a shout out that because of your experience, I have been a more productive in helping me diagnose car issues. Car Care Nut, Dan the Scanner, South Main Auto, Chrix Fix and Scotty Kilmer are my go to guys in Car care repair. Thanks again!!
Really love the videos here, especially the ones concerning the older Honda vehicles. I have a 2002 Accord (S86) that had belonged to my late father-in-law. I like this car very much and had been sending it for regular maintenance and repairs every time there's any sort of problem. Had also got it repainted last month, plus four new Michelins. It's `only' 2,000 cc (high road tax here in Malaysia for bigger cc engines) but there's enough power.
05 Pilot, not going past 10mph & hard shifting. Replaced A/B Solenoid, back to normal driving speed. Hard shifting on 3rd... Replaced 3rd & 4th Transmission Pressure Switch 28600-P7W-003 & 28600-P7Z-003. Good to go!
Be soooo thankful the solenoids are outside now. Back in the day when Honda first went to electrically powered solenoids, they stupidly put them inside the transmission. When I questioned the instructor/techs about this bad move they tried to convince me it was a good idea. My response, they will be outside shortly,,, just wait for it.
I changed my solenoids but still have a flare shift from 3rd to 4th when transmission is cold. Anything else I can do? I drain and fill every 15k and changed the spin in filter recently. 2002 Acura TL. I know these tranny's are terrible but hoping to get a little more life out of it. Thanks
I have a 2003 Honda V6 and when the Trans went it shifted D to 1st was quite a thrill because I was doing 70mph at the time. A known issue with 2003 Honda trans.The reason I’m posting a comment is I also have A 2013 Toyota with 107,000 mi it developed a surging in drive apparently it’s a known issue with the Tq converter. I took both cars to their respective Dealers. Honda wanted me to call Honda customer service line after 2 weeks They gave a service discount. Toyota called it a safety related issue and just fixed it N/C. Both cars were 7years old and had over 100,000 mi.
so glad i just had this video fall into my lap! so to speak. I have an 07 element with 180k on the clock and it 100% has a delayed shift at times and I think this is definitely my problem! Great video no doubt, as a fairly seasoned tech most videos are difficult for me to watch, but I had no issues at all watching yours. You are great in front of the camera and obviously super knowledgeable! That transmission fluid is great as well, glad to see a second, reliable option! thank you sir!!
Had a similar issue back in my early days of an accord in the same vintage 15-20 years. Somewhere 150k it started to delay like that. I found the workaround was to let off the gas enough and let it shift and then press down on the gas again. Not sure why it worked but if it wasn't going into gear, doing that worked. Hope that helps someone who doesn't have the option for even a $60 part. Back in the day that was how much a person made on minimum.
I have the dreaded 1-2 shift flare. I drive it like a stick. Press firmly on the gas and at around 3k let up watch the RPM drop and back on the gas. Or if you are on the flat or down hill, start out just barely on the gas and it will shift. What doesn't work is driving it in your normal way, pressing the gas modestly, results in giant lurch. I read the Honda recommended repair and it talks about removing and/or testing some other solenoids (3) under a cover on the bottom of the trans. I am wondering which it it? These 2 on the top outside seem much easier to do, but will it cure my problem?
@@richardcase1653 ever think it might be the tps sensor? i had a 94 honda that shifted funny, and would rev up, like it was kicking into overdrive-at the oddest times- i replaced the tps sensor, and it went away.
Thanks so much. This was very helpful. My element was banging from 2nd to 3rd. Went to the junkyard to pull one from another 05 element swapped it and shift now like a dream. Thought I was going to had to replace the full transmission
Have a 2005 Pilot EX. Bought it with 140k for 2k, had to rebuild the trans after failing at 145k after weeks of shifting flares and clunky down-shifting while going uphill/passing on highway. Started small, and got so bad the “flares” could be noted by watching by the rpms on the tachometer spike from 2.5k to about 3.1k before settling into gear. Trans finally gave out after attempting to reverse into my daily parking spot only to hear a loud mechanical “clatter”. Lost reverse, so immediately started driving it the 5 mile trip to the local trans shop. Lost 4th gear the first mile, 3rd the next, eventually riding it 3100 rpm’s in second to its rebuilder.. Cost more than the car to rebuild it. Had a cracked clutch drum that sent shavings and clutch material alllllll throughout the system, Clogging every solenoid and the internal filter. Gotta love Hondas.
Important with any tranny when having even minor issues to stop driving it and get it looked at before anything. Also no one seems to change the fluid and then wonder why they blow up 🤔
@@inglouriousmofo I change the fluids, all of them, the moment I purchase ANY used car. I got it so cheap because of the stated issues, and tried removing all the solenoids and cleaning the screen and filter-tubes and 3x drain/fill. I’m convinced that’s the only thing that kept it going as long as it did after I bought it. Love the car now, despite the cost. When I purchased it, it had been dealer maintained since 12 miles, all new Honda timing components (dealer installed) and great maintenance. Truck is clean inside and out, far more so than many others of this vintage I see… (I do emissions testing for Georgia, so I see plenty)
@@inglouriousmofo the mechanic use the wrong fluids or others things , they put into your car engine where you don't know about the transmission system in your car. they know you will be back to them again. spent more money there all.
I had a flashing "D" light intermittently on my '05 Accord 4cyl, removed the same set of solenoids, cleaned the screens with brake cleaner, put it back together with the original parts and it's been good for 6 months now.
If that was the case then I would recommend changing your fluid every 30K with Honda fluid. That should keep the debris in the system down. Link in the description to a video on changing the fluid.
@@ericthecarguy All the ATF was replaced when I installed a used engine 2 years ago. I also installed a new filter. Reading the code using the dashboard lights method, it seemed to be a torque conv clutch slipping intermittently. The trans has over 300k on it. Thanks for the videos and your recommendation. I'll follow your advice.
I have an Aisin AWTF-80 SC transmission, it has the same exact problem, when shifting into 3rd flares a bit. I thought this was the normal operating so I didn't really care about it, in fact I drove about 60k miles with this issue. But now I will get it check out for sure! Thanks!
Oil pressure on the camshaft phaser. However you’re the best mechanic on UA-cam. My f150 was doing the same thing and the threw up the code P0349. I was a quart low. Changed oil and it quit.
That explains a lot My transmission has some gears a bit too used,so in auto,my element shifts really hard and kicks a lot,but when I shift it myself,no problem,wethever I do
Patient car guy! I have a 2004 CRV exactly same problem, 165k miles, checked solenoid it works, although trans. Fluid never changed.Found out 20 y.o. Car never had a tune up. Fluid looks clean, but most likely it needs afluid change, filter replacement and new solenoid shifter.Also, it might be related to ECM for stuck in Park or wont go to Park.
This one was a must see given the transmission in my 04 TSX (remember me mentioning about second gear delayed shifting sometimes?) I'm going to start out by replacing the transmission fluid and will go from there. I will keep you updated. Thanks for an awesome video!
Good evening brother, my mom is having the same trouble with her 01 Honda Civic! Out of nowhere yesterday she just was struggling to shift!. I ordered a transmission shift Solenoid from Amazon! I’ll be installing it this week. Hope it works!
Eric, the newer v6s run an entire secondary valve body, but only the pressure switches are changeable. The solenoids are part of the unit. We do a lot of those on RDX's including the 3X flushes for torque conv judder. The four cylinders are all different with their transmissions pressure switches/solenoids between Honda/Acura
I have a 2017 rdx and had the same issue the dealer gave me a new transmission and i still have rough shifting in 3rd gear. Had to change $1000 in transmission oil changes (4 appointment) to get the new free transmission and issue still persist. I had a P0741 code before. What could be the root cause. Also my transmission clunks when i shift from park to drive.
Great video! Thanks. Found out my solenoids were good, but the little screens on the pipes running into the transmission were plugged. Cleaned them out and problem gone.
This video couldn't' have come at a better timing, I plan to do the exact same work on a 2003 CR-V for A and B-C Solenoids, fluid change, and filter change. I have a 1-2 downshift and 2-3 upshift delay. I hope it solves the problem.
Idemitsu manufactures transmission fluids for Honda and 7 other major brand groups. Type H PLUS is for Honda/Acura automatic transmissions. They make 8 types for the major Asian car manufacturers: Toyota/Lexus/Scion, TLS with WS specs, Honda/Acura type H PLUS, Nissan/Infiniti type S, Subaru type HP, Mazda type M, Hyundai/Kia type HK4, and Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi type HK. They also make synthetic engine oil and oil specifically for racing. They are developing CVTF fluids for continuously variable automatic transmissions as well. Lubricants are chemistry at work!
Had the trans rebuilt 2 yrs ago. But ever since they did it. It has a hard downshift from 2nd-1st. They said it would go away, 2 + yrs later still doing it. Everything else is smooth with it. 05 Honda Accord 4 cylinder
I have this exact problem with my 03 Accord and am sure it's the solenoids as well. OEM are really expensive as mentioned in the video. How did the ebay one hold up? Has anyone else had good or bad luck with ebay refurbished solenoids? Thank you for this video.
HEY ERIC! I just want to say thank you for all of your videos and especially your Element videos. I recently made an impulse decision to buy a running and driving element for $850 with 196k miles after watching this video. All it did was bang really hard into 2nd gear and then drove amazing. Unfortunately, I did not have the same luck as you did with Ebay. I bought an aftermarket one and i installed everything correctly and properly and as soon as I mounted everything back together, the "D" light was flashing and got a P0970 code and it would not shift into 2nd gear. I am working on getting a replacement part from the seller, but in the meantime, I purchased known good-used part from another seller. and if that does not work, I am going for OEM.
My 2001 Odyssey was early hard shifting and late hard shifting even though I was keeping the Honda ATF DW-1 changed and fresh in the transmission. After replacing the Honda fluid with a full-synthetic ATF, from a fluid company in Superior Wisconsin, (80% fluid replacement) the transmission started to shift smooth and predictable. The change was profound and continues to this day. This gives me the impression that Honda ATF DW-1 is a low grade transmission fluid. My 2001 Odyssey had the transmission filter inside the transmission so, I added an after market external transmission filter, a Raybestos Inline Magnetic Automatic Transmission Filter. It keeps the ATF in a bright clean magenta color for years.
No matter what, the Honda automatic transmissions from that era were garbage. It's a design flaw in the transmission case that causes the feed tubes to leak internally and then burn up the clutches. I've replaced more of those than I can count. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
hi, aware the level of the transmission fluids is too low or high can contribute to hard shift problems. most of the mechanics won't tell you. they just check the level is right and change new AFT fluid that's all. that is no problem using original honda products. be aware of the products you buy from... And always need to change transmission fluids from time to time. cheer I own the same model car as you.
My 2008 accord v6 had familiar issues when it tried to shift from 2nd to 3rd at low rpm. I could feel the jerkings and sluggish. First, i thought of those selonoids and planned to clean them but decided to check sparkplugs and battery first. It was not the battery but those sparkplugs. Found number 1 sparkplug really loose but clean and number 4 sparkplug loose with oil residue at the body (not the threads). Took them out and cleaned all sparkplugs and reinstalled fixed the issue. If that didn't work, i would go for those selenoids next and probably front right and front engine mounts next. Thanks for your video as always.
Great video and advice, unfortunately no luck for me. On my 3rd solenoid and 2nd transmission fluid change, still rough shift 1st to 2nd. Replaced my solenoid from the bottom every time, way easier than the top.
Ever wondered why there wasn't any information in the owners manuals about the transmission filters and most dealerships when you call them about it have no idea about it? I just changed them on both my 4cyl and 6cyl and it made a huge difference for both cars and how they shifted. But that doesn't go without saying that the orignal filters each lasted over 200k miles, in my case at least. Eric is right though, use the OEM filters.
If you change your fluid at the 30K interval, changing the filter really isn't necessary. In fact, most Honda transmissions don't have a replaceable filter.
That solenoid you changed is the A/T Clutch Pressure control solenoid valve A/B I'm not sure on that transmission but on the V6 ones you have Shift Solenoid A, B, C plus the Pressure switches
My 2008 ford focus (152k miles) has started to do the same thing. 1-2 fine, 2-3 when its warm takes sometimes over a second to shift into 3rd. It doesn't flare necessarily, but it will bog down and throw you forward a bit and then finally will shift. Trans fluid changed twice already, once at 110k and then again at 130k when the problems started happening, all solenoids have been replaced...
I have an 05 element the same color lol. I truly enjoy your videos and they are quite helpful. I watched your element/crv video to help me with the valve adjustments. They were all over the place. Thank you again.
thank youuuuuu! I had my car to all different mechanics! it's been going on since I owned it 3 years! no one could figure it out because it didn't do it all the time! I was ucking determined. ! to figure it out!! I got 182000 miles on it and it still drives like a dream. except for that hesitation between 2 n 3! I didn't wanna give it up. if it was the trans and I had it checked they said nothing is wrong with it. there's something wrong with it. a new trans I would have to have given her up! your a god sent knight in shining armor to damsel in distress.
Also Eric those passages they look like stainless steal cylinder pipes come out and I believe two of the three have a little mesh in them you can clean them out, sometimes they get junk in them. Great video and praying for you to find a new location as well.
I've yet to see where Idemitsu is in fact the OEM trans fluid for Honda. Sure... There's a lot of people on the internet saying that it is but I can't find anything official confirmation on this matter. I have tried the Idemitsu in my 2011 Civic and drain it after only 3 months. It started out cherry red and turned to a burnt amber color very quickly. That was a big red flag for me. (or burnt amber flag) So now I'm currently using ENEOS Model H and it's doing very well if not better than the Idemitsu. Still cherry red after 10 months of daily driving. So keep an eye out for rapid color change when using Idemitsu ATF.
Similar deal on sister's Jeep Grand Cherokee. 42RE. Wouldn't shift out of 1st, period. Not intermittent. Output speed sensor tested within spec on ohms. Replaced sensor anyway. Fixed problem.
I've only had two of my Honda V6 automatic transmissions needing a rebuild. I was quite surprised that a solenoid solved the issue. As you implied, that was unlikely.
If those were V6 transmissions, I'm not surprised at all. As I said in the video, the 4 cylinder automatics rarely have issues. Thanks for the comment.
me when I had problem with 8HP45 and was hard to reproduce for the dealer, mine happend on low load when it sat overnight. If I had go over 3000 it shift fine for the rest of the drive. They replace the valve body and it was fine, me and the Trans tech at dealer tought it was internally leaking and causing the delay to shift. Now it came back after I replace the battery... This ZF trans is touchy for the learn procedure, I got it right the first time the battery died, but not when i replaced it.
Hard to determine whether it was filter or solenoid when you changed both items. Does a clogged filter give a pressure drop that would contribute to the shifting issue? I think It was shaft wear in the solenoid. Good to know it's easy to change out. Thanks for sharing Eric, Cheers
@EricTheCarGuy I’ve had similar issues in a 99 civic lx and I fixed it (at least for the last five months) by pulling off the solenoids and cleaning the solenoids and especially the small mesh filter on the solenoid gasket. The small mesh filter i believe is what caused the intermittent lag in shifting, it was covered in grime. After reinstall of the same original parts car shifts like new! But that is also just my case and working on an older car that someone didn’t get transmission fluid changes enough on
@@jameshunt5316 glad your sorted your issue simply by cleaning it. I also sorted an issue with an idler control valve in my both civics by simply cleaning it.
@Rui Nunes better, they cost wayyyy too much brand new. I’ve cleaned three and two worked, one customer brought in an aftermarket idle air control valve, didn’t work even once out of the box and still cost the guy over a hundred bucks. Personally on those you gotta go oem I’ve noticed, scrap yards are a good place to find em cheap if they end up failing on ya, I did look it up and you can get some as low as $25-$40 online but I suspect probably don’t work from my experience. Cleaning does produce miracles to these older vehicles sometimes though haha. Thanks to Eric I’ve been able to revive seven different civics for people, cleaning up their solenoids and valves, pcv oil catch can, valve adjustment job plus basic maintenance and if they pass compression and leak down, usually the thing will drive like new!
Honda transmission in the odysseys are known to have problems shifting because the gear is up higher and doesn't get proper lubricating from 2nd to 3rd gear. My 04 odyssey I just purchased with 68,000mi. has that same problem and there was a recall.
It's shocking how expensive OEM parts are and because of this wherever possible I will go for a cheaper alternative. Have employed this strategy for the past 6 years when working on my own cars and those belonging to my family, and it's worked out well with no issues. Obviously if I was changing something like a main seal I would go OEM, but for everything else, if possible, I go the eBay, Amazon or Autozone route.
My 2003 Civic does only do the delays between shifting when the outside temperature is moderate to cold before engine reaching the operating temperature. Once it's warmed up power and shifting are normal.
Love starting my day off with an ETCG video. I think Honda mostly solved the V6 AT issues by ~2007. It was a big issue in the early 2000s, but they started beefing them up more by 2007. I know on the Odyssey they started using a much beefier transmission from the Ridgeline that had fewer issues. Idemitsu is indeed the OE supplier for Honda's DW-1.
@@Turb0Yoda Yeah. And the 06-07 Accord V6 got a stronger AT as well. By that point, you could do ATF changes every 30k and be good to go. My 06 Odyssey has the supposedly weaker transmission that was introduced late in the 04 model year and it's still working like new at 104k.
@@wiimaster2847 at least later 04 models and up where so much better major improvement. Unlike 03 and under almost a disaster if they didn’t offer fixes and updates.
Eric, I haven’t watched the whole. Video yet but let’s compare problems first. My 99 Accord EXL has a similar problem only going from first to second and only on the first shift of the day. I’ve purchased new tubes and screens for the solenoid valves and I’m going to change them out. Been told clutch material can clog the screens. Car only has 66K miles. Now to the video to listen to what you find. Long long time subscriber 😊🇺🇸. artie
the Honda service manual says that the fluid level has to be changed with the engine and transmission warm and within 30 seconds of stopping the engine. It's worth noting that there is a inline transmission filter mounted at the base of the radiator fluid returning from the radiator to the transmission passes through this filter. The filter is relatively inexpensive and should be changed when the fluid is changed.. When my 2008 element got to about 100,000 miles it developed a shift hesitation. After a fair amount of reading at the Element Owners Club forum, the consensus was that the most common cause was worn out transmission fluid and that the recommendation was to change the fluid either every 30,000 miles or when a problem is develops change it at least twice. Well I did that and the problem went away.
It's entirely possible that the problem was the old filter, since you replaced it at the same time as the pressure switch. I have the exact - and I mean exact - same issue with my 03 CRV. Same engine (K24A1, this is a K24A4 which is nearly identical), similar transmission (mine is an MRVA AWD transaxle). My theory is that, potentially, the internal route that the fluid travels along must have some more restriction or a greater distance to travel from the oil pump to the 3rd clutch than the rest of the clutches do - so that when there's a restriction in the filter, it shows up more in that gear than the rest. This would also potentially explain why both of those solenoids in the supposedly bad switch seemed to work fine. That doesn't necessarily mean that those solenoids weren't mechanically worn in some way that makes them open and close slower or something. I'd also like to add that I found it interesting that I also got a code for this particular problem. What I'm going to do is just replace the filter and see if that fixes the problem. If not and I have to dig into the the solenoids, I'll measure the resistance on the new ones (as well as the old ones) and post it here because it'd be good to know if they're the same or if these old ones were both equally worn out
@@ok99okok I replaced the filter and it didn't fix my problem, but a year later (haven't touched the transmission since I did this) the transmission is still fine. Still has the problem, of course, but it hasn't gotten any worse. The code, I forgot to mention in the original post, was for a "3rd pressure switch" I think I ordered the part ages ago, probably right around when I made this comment. I never got around to replacing it. I need to do that.
I think the solenoid part is actually "Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C". The shift solenoids are under the shift solenoid valve cover on the transmission.
So, it's a bad solenoid after all, even no engine code shown AND the old solenoid looks good. Worn out part. Thanks for the vid! Going to replace my shift solenoids A/B/C for my 2001 Honda Accord, which has the exact problem and it's getting worse.
Eric i have a 2012 acura tsx 4 cylinder, having the same issue, i cleaned the solinoids , it improved a little bit but it still there, especially when it is warm
Always awesome when we fix things and it's the correct fix especially since we may not know the exact problem all the time Good work Nice video @EricTheCarGuy
Hi Eric. You are usually very methodical, but this time you replaced 2 things at the same time, so you don't know whether the filter or the solenoids fixed the problem. I agree the behaviour seems more likely to have been the solenoids.
I had a Honda Prelude SI that wouldn't shift into second gear until it redlined first, and then it would go through all the rest of the gears fine after that, for the rest of the day.
Pilot did it in second -third and slams into gear. Changed the solenoid and fluid. Never did figure it out. Sent it to the junkyard, because it needed more work than what it was worth.
Greetings! Those 5 sided inserts are actually adjustable to increase/decrease activation pressure. A company called Sonnax makes the tool and describes what A and B control, and how adjusting them will affect performance. I actually have a 2002 MDX with a 2nd to 3rd shift issue. Turned solenoid A up a quarter turn and bingo.
I have the exact same problem with my 08 Honda Pilot except it's 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gears. You think that this is also the solenoid or something else? Also, what does it mean to simply "turn the solenoid? I'm not mechanically inclined at all. Thanks!
Hey I'm just getting started with this repair but where is the adjuster? I'm looking for a 5 sided insert but still no idea.
This comment is absolute gold
The knowledge of this would have saved possibly thousands of people's car
What do you mean by 5 sided inserts?
FINALLY! A mechanic feels the clients frustration when he can’t replicate the problem 😂 Never thought I would live enough to see this day
I always saw that when i worked on automotive. I worked for a Ford, a mercedes and a chrysler dealer. Me and my colleagues got frustrated many times trying to replicate customers' complaints.
@@Kevin09210 when I got my new Honda to the dealer for warranty repairs it was always “Cannot Duplicate”
@@ItsAlive111 they were probably just lazy fucks that dont really care about their job and didnt want to work on your car because it would take long. They probably wanted a fast job to get paid. I also learned that to be a good technician you have to be an enthusiast as well. Otherwise, they wont give a rat's ass about anybody's car.
Happens frequently
Mechanic are like car salesman. Most likely their crooked.
Hi, my Honda Element 2005 had the same problem. The solution was the same. Best wishes from Russia!
As complex as transmissions are, it is nice to find an easy fix for one kind of problem. What a fine description of the problem!
Had a similar issue on my 03 Accord EXV6 coupe. Changing out the ATF warmer filter and checking the banjo oil jet bolt. For particles of broken filter materials. And changing out the fluid and lastly checking the A/B linear solenoid. Helped it. After it was fixed sold it for Newer Sedan model. Great car it was
I just did a bunch of work to my friend's '08 Honda Element, her rig had 145K miles on it, did a trans service after the dreaded starter change and used Honda OEM filter and DW1 ATF, bought a case and flushed out the old nasty fluid(which looked like coffee)by taking off the trans cooler line before the filter, used a length of 3/8" clear hose and pumped it into a 3 gallon clear plastic jug 2 qts. at a time, shut engine off/refilled again until I ran 8 qts thru it or new ATF visible in the clear hose. Install new filter after doing the service and add 3 qts to sump, warmed up fluid as per factory manual and set fluid level at the full mark.
This gets all the nasty old oil out of the converter and does not harm the trans, just make sure to immediately shut off engine if you see any bubbles in the clear hose while draining! This car's trans shifts about 75 to 100% better as a result!
Thanks for the great tutorial on this car! Previous videos have been very helpful, especially the starter R/R on these cars!
When you were bench testing the solenoids with the power probe, you could hear a definite difference in sound between the two solenoids.
Which two, and why?
Congrats, your ears work.
Thanks for your video. I had the exact same problem but much much more severe. The 1-2 shift would have a hesitation of about a second and then would literally slam hard into second once it shifted. The 2-3 shift was even worse. The hesitation was more like 3-4 seconds and you would have to carefully feather the gas to get it to shift w/o first over revving the engine. I was able to get ahold of another used pair of shift solenoids and replaced them exactly as you did and now the car shifts like it was new. I want to add that my Element has 407K actual miles on it and this is a testament to how tough built these transmissions are! I was very fearful I was in for a trans replacement but in under an hour of labor that problem is now a ting of the past. Thanks again.
Mine does that SAME THING. It also has an ever increasing "whine" noise .... only in first n second gears though. Three transm places/ "experts" say replace it. But I should give changing the solenoids a shot first. Yes???
@@VINZBROWN I'm currently experiencing the same problem for delay shifting from 1-2. All garage guys told me to replace transmission.
What is this status now ?
You're a great dad for helping with your daughter's car. I wish my dad helped out.
I helped my daughter years back 👍🏻 one ice road night a car hit her 91’ Honda accord
Parked on the curb & a car hit the front end bad enough
That the insurance company
Totaled it 😳I bought it back and replaced all front end parts from the Junk yard 👍🏻 saved it . Same color too 👍🏻
@@jimmysapien9961whatcha want a gold Starr🤣
Easy fixes are always nice instead of transaxle replacement. I agree that sometimes resistance measurements are not always definitive. Solenoid may just be weak or slightly binding in the bore.
Before I even watched the video I suspected a possible corroded ground might be responsible for the solenoids malfunctioning. Just like Eric mentioning the "stronger" starter response, a bad ground increases resistance and can cause a lot of havoc with electrical systems. I've replaced that same ground wire on both of my Elements (03 & 06) because they were in just as bad shape because I was having VTEC issues - another system that relies on proper solenoid operation. Regardless, ETCG produces another high quality and informative video. Thanks again!
Eric, you're awesome. I've learned so much from you through the years. Thank you buddy, keep on keeping on
Great video, Eric. My 2000 Honda Civic (project car) had been stored for 7 years before I rebuilt the front end from an accident. After getting it back on the road, I experienced this and splippage between 2nd and 3rd gear. I was told that it was most likely due to the clutch plates drying out from sitting so long, and that it would go away. I've driven it for a year now. The slippage has mostly gone away, but I still get the same delay and surge into 3rd gear as you demonstrated. I'll check the car out now and see if that will fix it. Thanks for always educating and showing how it's done.
www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Please update after completing
I have a 8th gen civic and I have weird wubble on 2nd and first shift while driving slow
@@adrianlugo1130 did you fix it?
@@Amahyze777 nah did you? I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet
I have a 2003 Element with 200K on it. Owned since new. By far the best car I have ever owned.
My Element hold the first to second shift along with a high pitch whine. I think it is the shift solenoid.
All maintenance was done on time or early including numerous automatic fluid and filter changes by the dealer or my very good Honda mechanic (the fluid and filter changes are cheap and easy so why not?).
Last week I changed the original coils (third cylinder was throwing an occasional misfire. I bought OEM Denso coils and replaced the second set of plugs since new with new OEM NGK plugs. Wow! The car runs so much better and it seems the transmission shifts better (might be my hopeful mind). Sadly the delayed shifting from first to second is still there.
Did you ever get it resolved? If so, what was the fix?
Eric the car guy "the man" over 20 years of watching your videos thank you for everything
I don't own a Honda but i watch your videos because they're fun and informative and you're awesome!
I just picked up a 2004 honda odyssey with 114k on original transmission. So far have done two ATF changes, changed inline filter on top of transmission. Today I am adding a Tru-cool 4544 transmission cooler. The transmission is working fine rite now but I read some threads highly recommending doing the things I have done. Oh and I'm using Valvoline ATF max life Red jug.
I had a 2003 Odyssey with the failure prone tranny. Mine was original and it went 360k and the dealership was amazed every time I brought it in which was rare. I did the exact same as you but also added a magnefine ATF filter and used Amsoil ATF, the Valvoline you used is just as good in my opinion. I also added a half can of Lubegard Red to every ATF change. I changed ATF yearly and changed magnefine filter every 15-30k. I also drove it like a minivan and occ did not.
I only recommend Honda automatic transmission fluid in Honda automatics. Also, the issues with that transmission are internal and a design flaw. Your efforts may not yield the desired result, but I can't see how they could hurt. Thanks for the comment.
I tell my daughter. On her Mini van. Service the trans every 75 to 50k miles. She now has almost 200k.
Hey Eric , I noticed how humble you are now compared to 12 years ago . keep the videos coming , they are very educating . thanks
It’s because Derek from VVG set the standard. 😉😎
I had this exact car and same issue and went through identical steps, I even tried 3 sets of solenoids and additive and nothing changed. Ended up swapping transmission for about 450 bucks in the garage one afternoon and it was perfect after that.
Yes Idemitsu is the OEM trans fluid as well the power steering fluid and the differential oil. I also found out Eneos is also an oem fluid manufacturer for Honda as well .
@@tommypistols8104 only place ive seen idemitsu is rockauto and it isnt cheaper than oem at majestic/balise honda website
Some say the pressure switches can cause shift delays
I was having the same problem - at first just a suttle hiccup - then later it started to buck into gear - soon it was the 2nd then even 1st gear -- had a mechanic change out the vtec solenoid and the A and B solenoids- drain and fill 3x - it worked for a day but then it was bucking again . I ended going to Honda and they out in a salvaged trans - so far so good - that was about 4 months ago
Some NAPA’s have it on hand. Unfortunately It’s mostly a special order fluid.
After reading almost my whole service manual and seeing "write your radio code down" about 1000 times I've come to the realization that you are infact a service manual with legs and wrench twisters.
As a former mechanic your video was interesting and helpful ! 👍
I think the ground strap was necessary ! You will never know unless you switch back to your old shift solenoid when you replaced the transmission filter whether that was the problem ! ?
That certainly will help others to replace the transmission filter first before doing anything else !
We live and learn !
One thing I have found over the years with Solenoids is Sludge buildup in the their cylinder bore. First insure the intake screen filter is clean. Use a non-volitile cleaner and exercise the solenoid back and forth. The Electric side seldom fails. Its just wire windings and a connector. Corrosion/breakage perhaps in extreme cases. Mechanical side has seals wear out with time and prone to sludge buildup. Neglected maintenance or excessive mileage is the major contributing factor.
I second this mans comment
agreed
Just wanted to take this time to thank you for all the knowledge and heads up on the alternative tranny fluid. Saved me alot of money not having to go to the dealership! I have an '03 2.4 accord and its pretty much same stuff different vehicle. Thanks again! 🍻
It’s funny that this video came out when it did. My 2017 ridgeline started shifting strangely, almost exactly like this, a couple weeks ago and even got stuck in third gear and wouldn’t shift until I turned it off and started it up again. Thankfully if this is what the issue is, it’s way cheaper than a new transmission. But still, it’s irritating that they haven’t come farther with their transmissions and still have the same issues. It was interesting to learn that about their auto trannys!
I have the JDM Honda Odyssey RB3 2.4i VTEC and and despite the fact that my transmission was regularly serviced (dynamic oil changes) using genuine Honda oil and filters it had recently developed this problem, but on mine is noticeable from 1 to 2 gear and only in cold weather. Once the engine warms up it's fine. Will have to do some further testing. Thanks for very informative video anyway.
Thank you, I had the same problem, Honda Civic 2008, and I changed the same parts, and now the car is good ❤❤
Hi Eric. Been watching your channel for a long time now. Just wanted r
to give you a shout out that because of your experience, I have been a more productive in helping me diagnose car issues. Car Care Nut, Dan the Scanner, South Main Auto, Chrix Fix and Scotty Kilmer are my go to guys in Car care repair. Thanks again!!
Really love the videos here, especially the ones concerning the older Honda vehicles. I have a 2002 Accord (S86) that had belonged to my late father-in-law. I like this car very much and had been sending it for regular maintenance and repairs every time there's any sort of problem. Had also got it repainted last month, plus four new Michelins. It's `only' 2,000 cc (high road tax here in Malaysia for bigger cc engines) but there's enough power.
The automatic transmission they used with the 3.0 liter V6 of that generation was a time bomb, so your low displacement is a blessing in disguise.
@@MediumHalf dont think malaysia had our widebody accord
0
05 Pilot, not going past 10mph & hard shifting. Replaced A/B Solenoid, back to normal driving speed. Hard shifting on 3rd... Replaced 3rd & 4th Transmission Pressure Switch 28600-P7W-003 & 28600-P7Z-003. Good to go!
Do you have a slight delay in reverse and drive ? I have a 06 pilot 4wd.
Be soooo thankful the solenoids are outside now. Back in the day when Honda first went to electrically powered solenoids, they stupidly put them inside the transmission. When I questioned the instructor/techs about this bad move they tried to convince me it was a good idea. My response, they will be outside shortly,,, just wait for it.
I changed my solenoids but still have a flare shift from 3rd to 4th when transmission is cold. Anything else I can do? I drain and fill every 15k and changed the spin in filter recently. 2002 Acura TL. I know these tranny's are terrible but hoping to get a little more life out of it. Thanks
I have a 2003 Honda V6 and when the Trans went it shifted D to 1st was quite a thrill because I was doing 70mph at the time. A known issue with 2003 Honda trans.The reason I’m posting a comment is I also have A 2013 Toyota with 107,000 mi it developed a surging in drive apparently it’s a known issue with the
Tq converter. I took both cars to their respective Dealers. Honda wanted me to call Honda customer service line after 2 weeks They gave a service discount. Toyota called it a safety related issue and just fixed it N/C. Both cars were 7years old and had over 100,000 mi.
so glad i just had this video fall into my lap! so to speak. I have an 07 element with 180k on the clock and it 100% has a delayed shift at times and I think this is definitely my problem! Great video no doubt, as a fairly seasoned tech most videos are difficult for me to watch, but I had no issues at all watching yours. You are great in front of the camera and obviously super knowledgeable! That transmission fluid is great as well, glad to see a second, reliable option! thank you sir!!
Had a similar issue back in my early days of an accord in the same vintage 15-20 years. Somewhere 150k it started to delay like that. I found the workaround was to let off the gas enough and let it shift and then press down on the gas again. Not sure why it worked but if it wasn't going into gear, doing that worked. Hope that helps someone who doesn't have the option for even a $60 part. Back in the day that was how much a person made on minimum.
I have the dreaded 1-2 shift flare. I drive it like a stick. Press firmly on the gas and at around 3k let up watch the RPM drop and back on the gas. Or if you are on the flat or down hill, start out just barely on the gas and it will shift. What doesn't work is driving it in your normal way, pressing the gas modestly, results in giant lurch. I read the Honda recommended repair and it talks about removing and/or testing some other solenoids (3) under a cover on the bottom of the trans. I am wondering which it it? These 2 on the top outside seem much easier to do, but will it cure my problem?
@@richardcase1653 ever think it might be the tps sensor? i had a 94 honda that shifted funny, and would rev up, like it was kicking into overdrive-at the oddest times- i replaced the tps sensor, and it went away.
Thanks so much. This was very helpful. My element was banging from 2nd to 3rd. Went to the junkyard to pull one from another 05 element swapped it and shift now like a dream. Thought I was going to had to replace the full transmission
Have a 2005 Pilot EX. Bought it with 140k for 2k, had to rebuild the trans after failing at 145k after weeks of shifting flares and clunky down-shifting while going uphill/passing on highway. Started small, and got so bad the “flares” could be noted by watching by the rpms on the tachometer spike from 2.5k to about 3.1k before settling into gear. Trans finally gave out after attempting to reverse into my daily parking spot only to hear a loud mechanical “clatter”. Lost reverse, so immediately started driving it the 5 mile trip to the local trans shop. Lost 4th gear the first mile, 3rd the next, eventually riding it 3100 rpm’s in second to its rebuilder..
Cost more than the car to rebuild it. Had a cracked clutch drum that sent shavings and clutch material alllllll throughout the system,
Clogging every solenoid and the internal filter.
Gotta love Hondas.
Important with any tranny when having even minor issues to stop driving it and get it looked at before anything. Also no one seems to change the fluid and then wonder why they blow up 🤔
@@inglouriousmofo I change the fluids, all of them, the moment I purchase ANY used car. I got it so cheap because of the stated issues, and tried removing all the solenoids and cleaning the screen and filter-tubes and 3x drain/fill. I’m convinced that’s the only thing that kept it going as long as it did after I bought it.
Love the car now, despite the cost. When I purchased it, it had been dealer maintained since 12 miles, all new Honda timing components (dealer installed) and great maintenance. Truck is clean inside and out, far more so than many others of this vintage I see… (I do emissions testing for Georgia, so I see plenty)
@@inglouriousmofo You know how expensive Honda DW-1 transmission fluid is? It’s over $10 a quart; I wish I could use Valvoline MaxLife ATF.
@@inglouriousmofo the mechanic use the wrong fluids or others things , they put into your car engine where you don't know about the transmission system in your car. they know you will be back to them again. spent more money there all.
I had a flashing "D" light intermittently on my '05 Accord 4cyl, removed the same set of solenoids, cleaned the screens with brake cleaner, put it back together with the original parts and it's been good for 6 months now.
If that was the case then I would recommend changing your fluid every 30K with Honda fluid. That should keep the debris in the system down. Link in the description to a video on changing the fluid.
@@ericthecarguy All the ATF was replaced when I installed a used engine 2 years ago. I also installed a new filter. Reading the code using the dashboard lights method, it seemed to be a torque conv clutch slipping intermittently. The trans has over 300k on it. Thanks for the videos and your recommendation. I'll follow your advice.
I have an Aisin AWTF-80 SC transmission, it has the same exact problem, when shifting into 3rd flares a bit. I thought this was the normal operating so I didn't really care about it, in fact I drove about 60k miles with this issue. But now I will get it check out for sure! Thanks!
Oil pressure on the camshaft phaser. However you’re the best mechanic on UA-cam. My f150 was doing the same thing and the threw up the code P0349. I was a quart low. Changed oil and it quit.
That explains a lot
My transmission has some gears a bit too used,so in auto,my element shifts really hard and kicks a lot,but when I shift it myself,no problem,wethever I do
Patient car guy! I have a 2004 CRV exactly same problem, 165k miles, checked solenoid it works, although trans. Fluid never changed.Found out 20 y.o. Car never had a tune up. Fluid looks clean, but most likely it needs afluid change, filter replacement and new solenoid shifter.Also, it might be related to ECM for stuck in Park or wont go to Park.
This one was a must see given the transmission in my 04 TSX (remember me mentioning about second gear delayed shifting sometimes?) I'm going to start out by replacing the transmission fluid and will go from there. I will keep you updated. Thanks for an awesome video!
I’d change the transmission fluid in the pan and install an aftermarket transmission cooler. Heat and dirty fluid is what kills transmissions.
Good evening brother, my mom is having the same trouble with her 01 Honda Civic! Out of nowhere yesterday she just was struggling to shift!. I ordered a transmission shift Solenoid from Amazon! I’ll be installing it this week. Hope it works!
Eric, the newer v6s run an entire secondary valve body, but only the pressure switches are changeable. The solenoids are part of the unit. We do a lot of those on RDX's including the 3X flushes for torque conv judder. The four cylinders are all different with their transmissions pressure switches/solenoids between Honda/Acura
I have a 2017 rdx and had the same issue the dealer gave me a new transmission and i still have rough shifting in 3rd gear. Had to change $1000 in transmission oil changes (4 appointment) to get the new free transmission and issue still persist.
I had a P0741 code before. What could be the root cause. Also my transmission clunks when i shift from park to drive.
Great video! Thanks. Found out my solenoids were good, but the little screens on the pipes running into the transmission were plugged. Cleaned them out and problem gone.
This video couldn't' have come at a better timing, I plan to do the exact same work on a 2003 CR-V for A and B-C Solenoids, fluid change, and filter change. I have a 1-2 downshift and 2-3 upshift delay. I hope it solves the problem.
I changed my fluid and filter and a month later it went kaput on the highway....had to rebuild...
Do you mean 1-2 upshift and 3-2 downshift issue?
Idemitsu manufactures transmission fluids for Honda and 7 other major brand groups. Type H PLUS is for Honda/Acura automatic transmissions. They make 8 types for the major Asian car manufacturers: Toyota/Lexus/Scion, TLS with WS specs, Honda/Acura type H PLUS, Nissan/Infiniti type S, Subaru type HP, Mazda type M, Hyundai/Kia type HK4, and Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi type HK. They also make synthetic engine oil and oil specifically for racing. They are developing CVTF fluids for continuously variable automatic transmissions as well. Lubricants are chemistry at work!
Miss you bro !! Hope all is well Eric !! About to do this job myself. You are a blessing my dude !! Love from western Ma.
Had the trans rebuilt 2 yrs ago. But ever since they did it. It has a hard downshift from 2nd-1st. They said it would go away, 2 + yrs later still doing it. Everything else is smooth with it. 05 Honda Accord 4 cylinder
check the level of transmission fluids,less or more can contribute to the hard shift .
I have this exact problem with my 03 Accord and am sure it's the solenoids as well. OEM are really expensive as mentioned in the video. How did the ebay one hold up? Has anyone else had good or bad luck with ebay refurbished solenoids? Thank you for this video.
HEY ERIC! I just want to say thank you for all of your videos and especially your Element videos. I recently made an impulse decision to buy a running and driving element for $850 with 196k miles after watching this video. All it did was bang really hard into 2nd gear and then drove amazing. Unfortunately, I did not have the same luck as you did with Ebay. I bought an aftermarket one and i installed everything correctly and properly and as soon as I mounted everything back together, the "D" light was flashing and got a P0970 code and it would not shift into 2nd gear. I am working on getting a replacement part from the seller, but in the meantime, I purchased known good-used part from another seller. and if that does not work, I am going for OEM.
I have the same problem. How did you make out?
@@pajo2012 i gotta go for OEM. Same issue with the replacement i purchased.
You're driving around my neighborhood! 😁👍
Great video, Eric. 🦅🇺🇸
My 2001 Odyssey was early hard shifting and late hard shifting even though I was keeping the Honda ATF DW-1 changed and fresh in the transmission. After replacing the Honda fluid with a full-synthetic ATF, from a fluid company in Superior Wisconsin, (80% fluid replacement) the transmission started to shift smooth and predictable. The change was profound and continues to this day. This gives me the impression that Honda ATF DW-1 is a low grade transmission fluid. My 2001 Odyssey had the transmission filter inside the transmission so, I added an after market external transmission filter, a Raybestos Inline Magnetic Automatic Transmission Filter. It keeps the ATF in a bright clean magenta color for years.
No matter what, the Honda automatic transmissions from that era were garbage. It's a design flaw in the transmission case that causes the feed tubes to leak internally and then burn up the clutches. I've replaced more of those than I can count. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
@@ericthecarguy OK.
hi, aware the level of the transmission fluids is too low or high can contribute to hard shift problems. most of the mechanics won't tell you. they just check the level is right and change new AFT fluid that's all. that is no problem using original honda products. be aware of the products you buy from...
And always need to change transmission fluids from time to time. cheer I own the same model car as you.
My 2008 accord v6 had familiar issues when it tried to shift from 2nd to 3rd at low rpm. I could feel the jerkings and sluggish. First, i thought of those selonoids and planned to clean them but decided to check sparkplugs and battery first. It was not the battery but those sparkplugs. Found number 1 sparkplug really loose but clean and number 4 sparkplug loose with oil residue at the body (not the threads). Took them out and cleaned all sparkplugs and reinstalled fixed the issue. If that didn't work, i would go for those selenoids next and probably front right and front engine mounts next. Thanks for your video as always.
Great video and advice, unfortunately no luck for me.
On my 3rd solenoid and 2nd transmission fluid change, still rough shift 1st to 2nd.
Replaced my solenoid from the bottom every time, way easier than the top.
Ever wondered why there wasn't any information in the owners manuals about the transmission filters and most dealerships when you call them about it have no idea about it? I just changed them on both my 4cyl and 6cyl and it made a huge difference for both cars and how they shifted. But that doesn't go without saying that the orignal filters each lasted over 200k miles, in my case at least. Eric is right though, use the OEM filters.
If you change your fluid at the 30K interval, changing the filter really isn't necessary. In fact, most Honda transmissions don't have a replaceable filter.
That solenoid you changed is the A/T Clutch Pressure control solenoid valve A/B
I'm not sure on that transmission but on the V6 ones you have Shift Solenoid A, B, C plus the Pressure switches
My 2008 ford focus (152k miles) has started to do the same thing. 1-2 fine, 2-3 when its warm takes sometimes over a second to shift into 3rd. It doesn't flare necessarily, but it will bog down and throw you forward a bit and then finally will shift. Trans fluid changed twice already, once at 110k and then again at 130k when the problems started happening, all solenoids have been replaced...
I have an 05 element the same color lol. I truly enjoy your videos and they are quite helpful. I watched your element/crv video to help me with the valve adjustments. They were all over the place. Thank you again.
Excellent video. Helps to explain similar problem with my wife's 2005 CRV. Thx.
thank youuuuuu! I had my car to all different mechanics! it's been going on since I owned it 3 years! no one could figure it out because it didn't do it all the time! I was ucking determined. ! to figure it out!! I got 182000 miles on it and it still drives like a dream. except for that hesitation between 2 n 3! I didn't wanna give it up. if it was the trans and I had it checked they said nothing is wrong with it. there's something wrong with it. a new trans I would have to have given her up! your a god sent knight in shining armor to damsel in distress.
Yes ETCG1 you are correct on the transmission fluid it’s made by iidemitsu.
My new to me 07 Element had a bad ground cable like yours, the dealership only wanted like 30 bucks for a new cable so I went for it.
Also Eric those passages they look like stainless steal cylinder pipes come out and I believe two of the three have a little mesh in them you can clean them out, sometimes they get junk in them. Great video and praying for you to find a new location as well.
That's true. I am chasing an issue on 2003 accord auto. Pulled the A/B solenoid and cleaned all the screens.
@@ZealoustheEnder Did it work ?
It's working better but I believe I'm still having a pressure issue I'm going to change the filter.
Thank you Eric I always love and appreciate watching your wonderful videos I am watching from South Africa
Thank you!
I've yet to see where Idemitsu is in fact the OEM trans fluid for Honda. Sure... There's a lot of people on the internet saying that it is but I can't find anything official confirmation on this matter. I have tried the Idemitsu in my 2011 Civic and drain it after only 3 months. It started out cherry red and turned to a burnt amber color very quickly. That was a big red flag for me. (or burnt amber flag) So now I'm currently using ENEOS Model H and it's doing very well if not better than the Idemitsu. Still cherry red after 10 months of daily driving. So keep an eye out for rapid color change when using Idemitsu ATF.
Thanks for that info. I'm running Indemitsu in my Pilot right now. So far, it's doing well.
@@ericthecarguy I seen that. Oh... and the Eneos ATF is less extensive than dealer ATF or the Idemitsu ATF.
Hello Eric, my 2000 Civic is doing the same thing I will try those trouble shooting methods thanks I appreciate you!
This was extremely helpful, my 1998 auto integra slips going into 3rd and 4th too but 1st to 2nd is just fine
Did it work
What helped?
could have been the solenoids sticking a bit when getting side loaded with having to operate while dealing with fluid pressure.
Greetings from the future! This actually fixed my problem for my 2001 Honda crv. Thank you.
Really Idemitsu makes Subaru Oils also. Cool Thanks Eric!
This was very useful! I have a 2006 Element with the exact same issue! Now I know how to fix it! Thank you!
Did it?
Very helpful. This 'high probability' is happening on my acura 1999 4 banger. If the filter is outside to, going to change that too.
Similar deal on sister's Jeep Grand Cherokee. 42RE. Wouldn't shift out of 1st, period. Not intermittent. Output speed sensor tested within spec on ohms. Replaced sensor anyway. Fixed problem.
I've only had two of my Honda V6 automatic transmissions needing a rebuild. I was quite surprised that a solenoid solved the issue. As you implied, that was unlikely.
If those were V6 transmissions, I'm not surprised at all. As I said in the video, the 4 cylinder automatics rarely have issues. Thanks for the comment.
me when I had problem with 8HP45 and was hard to reproduce for the dealer, mine happend on low load when it sat overnight. If I had go over 3000 it shift fine for the rest of the drive. They replace the valve body and it was fine, me and the Trans tech at dealer tought it was internally leaking and causing the delay to shift. Now it came back after I replace the battery... This ZF trans is touchy for the learn procedure, I got it right the first time the battery died, but not when i replaced it.
thanks, i saw your video...and guess what... issue fixed !
Hard to determine whether it was filter or solenoid when you changed both items. Does a clogged filter give a pressure drop that would contribute to the shifting issue?
I think It was shaft wear in the solenoid. Good to know it's easy to change out.
Thanks for sharing Eric,
Cheers
The filter had nothing to do with it. I'm certain it was a solenoid issue. Likely the solenoid getting weak. It's very common. Thanks for the comment.
@EricTheCarGuy I’ve had similar issues in a 99 civic lx and I fixed it (at least for the last five months) by pulling off the solenoids and cleaning the solenoids and especially the small mesh filter on the solenoid gasket. The small mesh filter i believe is what caused the intermittent lag in shifting, it was covered in grime. After reinstall of the same original parts car shifts like new! But that is also just my case and working on an older car that someone didn’t get transmission fluid changes enough on
@@jameshunt5316 glad your sorted your issue simply by cleaning it. I also sorted an issue with an idler control valve in my both civics by simply cleaning it.
@Rui Nunes better, they cost wayyyy too much brand new. I’ve cleaned three and two worked, one customer brought in an aftermarket idle air control valve, didn’t work even once out of the box and still cost the guy over a hundred bucks. Personally on those you gotta go oem I’ve noticed, scrap yards are a good place to find em cheap if they end up failing on ya, I did look it up and you can get some as low as $25-$40 online but I suspect probably don’t work from my experience. Cleaning does produce miracles to these older vehicles sometimes though haha. Thanks to Eric I’ve been able to revive seven different civics for people, cleaning up their solenoids and valves, pcv oil catch can, valve adjustment job plus basic maintenance and if they pass compression and leak down, usually the thing will drive like new!
@@jameshunt5316 yep, I also learned a lot from Eric. Thanks god we have UA-cam. 😃
Honda transmission in the odysseys are known to have problems shifting because the gear is up higher and doesn't get proper lubricating from 2nd to 3rd gear. My 04 odyssey I just purchased with 68,000mi. has that same problem and there was a recall.
Always clean the electrical contacts w/ a good cleaner. At some point you need to recheck all the electrical grounds. Nice info!
It's shocking how expensive OEM parts are and because of this wherever possible I will go for a cheaper alternative. Have employed this strategy for the past 6 years when working on my own cars and those belonging to my family, and it's worked out well with no issues. Obviously if I was changing something like a main seal I would go OEM, but for everything else, if possible, I go the eBay, Amazon or Autozone route.
Be careful. ua-cam.com/video/TvzFkJrDoDY/v-deo.html
My 2003 Civic does only do the delays between shifting when the outside temperature is moderate to cold before engine reaching the operating temperature. Once it's warmed up power and shifting are normal.
Great work like always. I ordered the vice jaws. Thank you for linking those.
I have a 99 accord v6 with the same issue. I will for sure try some of this! Thank you!
As I said in the video, this is less likely to work with V6 automatics. Good hunting.
www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Update ?
Wow this video fell into my lap at the perfect moment, thank you!
Love starting my day off with an ETCG video.
I think Honda mostly solved the V6 AT issues by ~2007. It was a big issue in the early 2000s, but they started beefing them up more by 2007. I know on the Odyssey they started using a much beefier transmission from the Ridgeline that had fewer issues.
Idemitsu is indeed the OE supplier for Honda's DW-1.
Yep, 07/08TL got the new RL trans which was way better than the earlier glass trans in the cars between… 2000-2006?
@@Turb0Yoda Yeah. And the 06-07 Accord V6 got a stronger AT as well. By that point, you could do ATF changes every 30k and be good to go. My 06 Odyssey has the supposedly weaker transmission that was introduced late in the 04 model year and it's still working like new at 104k.
@@wiimaster2847 In 04 05 Accord V6 models the Transmissions issues where already fixed with a better Transmission from the factory.
@@nighthawkj30A4 The 03-05 models were still more problematic than 06-07. They changed it up in 06 with the facelift for a reason.
@@wiimaster2847 at least later 04 models and up where so much better major improvement. Unlike 03 and under almost a disaster if they didn’t offer fixes and updates.
Eric, I haven’t watched the whole. Video yet but let’s compare problems first. My 99 Accord EXL has a similar problem only going from first to second and only on the first shift of the day. I’ve purchased new tubes and screens for the solenoid valves and I’m going to change them out. Been told clutch material can clog the screens. Car only has 66K miles. Now to the video to listen to what you find. Long long time subscriber 😊🇺🇸. artie
Good hunting. www.ericthecarguy.com/solving-transmission-problems/
the Honda service manual says that the fluid level has to be changed with the engine and transmission warm and within 30 seconds of stopping the engine. It's worth noting that there is a inline transmission filter mounted at the base of the radiator fluid returning from the radiator to the transmission passes through this filter. The filter is relatively inexpensive and should be changed when the fluid is changed..
When my 2008 element got to about 100,000 miles it developed a shift hesitation. After a fair amount of reading at the Element Owners Club forum, the consensus was that the most common cause was worn out transmission fluid and that the recommendation was to change the fluid either every 30,000 miles or when a problem is develops change it at least twice. Well I did that and the problem went away.
It's entirely possible that the problem was the old filter, since you replaced it at the same time as the pressure switch. I have the exact - and I mean exact - same issue with my 03 CRV. Same engine (K24A1, this is a K24A4 which is nearly identical), similar transmission (mine is an MRVA AWD transaxle). My theory is that, potentially, the internal route that the fluid travels along must have some more restriction or a greater distance to travel from the oil pump to the 3rd clutch than the rest of the clutches do - so that when there's a restriction in the filter, it shows up more in that gear than the rest. This would also potentially explain why both of those solenoids in the supposedly bad switch seemed to work fine. That doesn't necessarily mean that those solenoids weren't mechanically worn in some way that makes them open and close slower or something. I'd also like to add that I found it interesting that I also got a code for this particular problem. What I'm going to do is just replace the filter and see if that fixes the problem. If not and I have to dig into the the solenoids, I'll measure the resistance on the new ones (as well as the old ones) and post it here because it'd be good to know if they're the same or if these old ones were both equally worn out
waiting for your comment soon?
@@ok99okok I replaced the filter and it didn't fix my problem, but a year later (haven't touched the transmission since I did this) the transmission is still fine. Still has the problem, of course, but it hasn't gotten any worse. The code, I forgot to mention in the original post, was for a "3rd pressure switch" I think I ordered the part ages ago, probably right around when I made this comment. I never got around to replacing it. I need to do that.
Strange, working on my element today as well, came across that filter had a small leak nothing crazy! And it fixed my damn flashing d light
I think the solenoid part is actually "Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C". The shift solenoids are under the shift solenoid valve cover on the transmission.
So, it's a bad solenoid after all, even no engine code shown AND the old solenoid looks good. Worn out part. Thanks for the vid! Going to replace my shift solenoids A/B/C for my 2001 Honda Accord, which has the exact problem and it's getting worse.
Hi .
The logarithm sent me this.
I know you are between shops.
Just wanted to say thanks ,this vod may help me .
Awesome video Eric. Great explanation !!!!!
Eric i have a 2012 acura tsx 4 cylinder, having the same issue, i cleaned the solinoids , it improved a little bit but it still there, especially when it is warm
Always awesome when we fix things and it's the correct fix especially since we may not know the exact problem all the time Good work Nice video @EricTheCarGuy
Hi Eric. You are usually very methodical, but this time you replaced 2 things at the same time, so you don't know whether the filter or the solenoids fixed the problem. I agree the behaviour seems more likely to have been the solenoids.
I had a Honda Prelude SI that wouldn't shift into second gear until it redlined first, and then it would go through all the rest of the gears fine after that, for the rest of the day.
ETCG Eric, Eric, GOD help U Eric, and respect from NYC -Brookly 🤝👍🥰
You do it correctly. Proud to see that :)
Pilot did it in second -third and slams into gear. Changed the solenoid and fluid. Never did figure it out. Sent it to the junkyard, because it needed more work than what it was worth.
It's more likely it needed a transmission. www.ericthecarguy.com/solving-transmission-problems/