Great video work and really informative. Thanks for the safety precautions for power tools as well,. Can't be overstated how important it is to respect your tools.
I've seen a lot of "kickback" on table saws, when I worked in cabinet shops. Usually you're OK if the piece is longer than the width. That's why we had a sliding table saw, but that would be useless to do this job here. Glad you touched on the issue.
Thanks for reminding me to keep touching on the potential risks. I've always prefer to learn from other peoples mistakes rather than my own. It was seeing people lose fingers and such early in my trade that helped me have the confidence and mastery of mind and hands to be more in control than afraid. But we also have to be ready and aware of the unexpected. Thanks for your comment.
Have you tried making new rings? Ive steamed beech and other hardwoods to make protective edges on custom canoe paddles. Its actually quite easy and inexpensive. With a little practice and math you could precut the scarf joint on the piece while still straight, and then steam it. Beech is a very dense wood but when steamed, it is very easy to shape.
Hey Richard, yes I steam my own rings, drums, and stuff, but in these films I try to do things on the fly and in ways that a DIYer may be able to do at home with what they have there. We have some great woods here in Australia, but many are way too hard to steam bend. I always wanted to make a canoe.
Great vids Tony, thanks for your effort! With rewrapping would you know what adhesive is recommended here in Australia? I know Precision Drums recommend 3M Fastbond contact Adhesive or 3m scotch weld contact adhesive neutral, but it's not available here.
Cheers mate. I'm in Australia, I use Bostik spray on contact adhesive, the brush version can cause lumps and bubbles from being uneven. I have a couple of rewrap videos already shot, just sorting out editing. So keep an eye out for those. Here is a link to the brush-on version www.bostik.com/australia/en_AU/catalog/product/construction/apac/australia/product-contact-bond/ I also use this spray on version by Tac - www.lincolnsentry.com.au/tac-adhesive-203-spray-contact-high-heat-clear-20-litre/p/7100162
Hey mate, a great question. The purpose of my video was to see if I can use the exact reinforcement ring that Pearl installed in the exact place, which we did. Normally, I would cut a reinforcement ring out of the shell offcut, or another shell off cut. But this was more an experiment on the fly to try a few things done differently.
Hey mate,have you ever come across thin foil stuck to the shell . I have a sonor performer phonic and the wrap came off or fell off and now I'm stuck how do I take this foil off??? HELP!!!
Oh yes Ralph. Unfortunately! The two most difficult restos that I e ever done were a black wrapped 80's Yamaha recording with unbelievably hard-to-remove glue and a Sonor wrapped kit that where the wrap came off and left silver stuck to the shell. In these, and similar cases, you need to mechanically remove it with a sharp plane blade used as a scraper - always with the grain. You can still use thinners, if it softens the material, to make it easier. Let me know how you go. Thanks for the question. Tony
Thanks for the video and showing the possibilities !!! I taught students to use table saws for years and years... Im not trying to tell you how to do your job. But is much safer to put the small side between the fence and blade when cutting that tom down. The wider it is between the fence and blade the more chance to twist and get a kick back. Second thing is ... why not use a bandsaw for cutting the scarf ... Free handing on the circular saw is a very VERY bad idea. Especially for someone watching this who doesn't understand the possible problems and accidents that can happen on the table saw. Just thought it would probably be better to show people the safest way. Of course your absolutely right...The router is a better choice. Anyway... thanks for a great video of some possible solutions..!!!
Mark, all good thoughts and advice there. Thank you. One of the issues that I've found over the years is that skill-less people will favour the dumbest things over the safest things; add to this dull cutters or blades and low level skills and accidents are inevitable. One way I help here is actually demonstrating many of the conceivable ways that these jobs will be done and executing that with skill and precision so that people can see it's dangerous. I never do anything that risks life, limb or even the job but I'll try many different ways as DIYers will use what they have on hand to do what ever they are trying to do. That said, I think I make the point more clearly in demonstrating the many ways to do things. I know it doesn't excuse the perception of high risk and carelessness (which could not be further from the truth) but instead it's my intention to demonstrate the high skill levels necessary for higher risk tasks in their effective execution, which should be pretty obvious by now if you've watched a few of my videos. But thanks again, I have a bunch coming up that set the bench marks too. Thanks for reaching out and commenting. Kind regards Tony.
Hi Tristan, I now only do this kinda work for the show. It is speciality work, so there aren't many who can do it and even less who can make it like factory or better than factory. So sorry I can't help you. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Depends of what kinda drummer you are and how you hit a drum. If your a hack and play into a drum it will all sound crap. Remember, Depth is not equal to volume, nor deep drum more tone or vokume. It's a basic in drum physics but many drummers believe the advertising and not the science. All the best.
I would absolutely use feather boards instead of my fingers to hold work piece to the fence in this situation. Blade is way too close to fingers! Also, blade height need not be so high during cutdown and scarf joint cut operations in particular. Too much exposed blade means more fingers disappearing! My two cents, worth one cent.
Hey mate, all advice to save your bits and pieces are invaluable. That said, if you have sharp blades there is rarely a problem. Accidents happen with inexperience, hesitation, wrong set up and a lack of confidence when someone is pushing the material into a cut instead of letting the cut make the way through the material. Also keep in mind that high blade has a purpose, it actually better as it spreads the cutting edges further apart and makes a large flat surface in the middle to stabilise the material. This flat surface is key to stability, but again DIYers have trouble because their fear is counterintuitive to their needs and they often have blades that are not sharp, this fear of the blade introduces more risk as it's the flat section of the blade, I.e. more non cutting areas that protect you from user errors and associated accidents. All in all, if you have shape blades, think of the physics and logical and have good confidence in your skills, there is not much left that can fail, but the material, which does fail, but no stable flat surface and blunt blade make this unfortunate situation horrifically going to be worse off. After 35 years on the saw, I've seen smart people do the dumbest/careless things and they've lost fingers. Yet I've seen dumb people just follow those simple principles and kept all ten fingers. But I apologies if the blade work looks cavalier. In the up coming resto videos, I might explain all this stuff and why I do things a certain way, after trying them all, and seeing others fail. I appreciate you comment. Enjoy the films. Tony.
Do ya think ya might be somewhat reckless with your Table Saw ? It would take you 10 minutes to build a fixture to hold the work flat against the fence while keeping your appendages safe. And... why don't you use a measuring tool or a dial indicator on a base to determine your blade height? Come on man I know you know better. This sets a really bad example for the young rookie.. Cutting a scarf joint on a band saw or a thin blade hand saw would produce a far better joint. Just say'n... You have good knowledge. Don't be a hack.
Ha ha funny. Yeah this is the point, I try all kinds of ways to do it, as I discover it to show the difference between different ways, in both risk and result. The truth is, an experienced tradesman WITH ALWAYS SHARP BLADES never has any real risk of losing a finger. It's always blunt tools and low experience that leads to injuries. Simply I could cut down drums with a chain saw and kitchen knife if it's sharp.
It’s a waste to leave them long and in a shed, never to be played again. I’m happy to chop anything. They always sound much better once I’ve worked on them anyways.
I think he explains the reason for cutting the drum down. Nothing is ruined! It's not like he's doing this to a set of 1940s Slingerlands. These were mass produced, non collectable drums and nobody wants deep shells anymore unless you're into the hair bands from the 80s.
Universal blessing ☄️❤️
Thanks mate.
I actually have this job coming up, cool, thanks for sharing
My pleasure Ryno.
Great video work and really informative. Thanks for the safety precautions for power tools as well,. Can't be overstated how important it is to respect your tools.
Cheers Todd, yeah I have to keep being mindful to include then so thanks for the encouragement. Regards tony
I've seen a lot of "kickback" on table saws, when I worked in cabinet shops. Usually you're OK if the piece is longer than the width. That's why we had a sliding table saw, but that would be useless to do this job here. Glad you touched on the issue.
Thanks for reminding me to keep touching on the potential risks. I've always prefer to learn from other peoples mistakes rather than my own. It was seeing people lose fingers and such early in my trade that helped me have the confidence and mastery of mind and hands to be more in control than afraid. But we also have to be ready and aware of the unexpected.
Thanks for your comment.
Have you tried making new rings? Ive steamed beech and other hardwoods to make protective edges on custom canoe paddles. Its actually quite easy and inexpensive. With a little practice and math you could precut the scarf joint on the piece while still straight, and then steam it. Beech is a very dense wood but when steamed, it is very easy to shape.
Hey Richard, yes I steam my own rings, drums, and stuff, but in these films I try to do things on the fly and in ways that a DIYer may be able to do at home with what they have there.
We have some great woods here in Australia, but many are way too hard to steam bend. I always wanted to make a canoe.
@KillerDrumsTV I'm building a cedar canoe as we speak! Best of luck. I enjoyed your video
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. This was just what I was looking for.
Awesome, thanks for letting us know. Tony
Great vids Tony, thanks for your effort! With rewrapping would you know what adhesive is recommended here in Australia? I know Precision Drums recommend 3M Fastbond contact Adhesive or 3m scotch weld contact adhesive neutral, but it's not available here.
Cheers mate. I'm in Australia, I use Bostik spray on contact adhesive, the brush version can cause lumps and bubbles from being uneven. I have a couple of rewrap videos already shot, just sorting out editing. So keep an eye out for those. Here is a link to the brush-on version www.bostik.com/australia/en_AU/catalog/product/construction/apac/australia/product-contact-bond/
I also use this spray on version by Tac - www.lincolnsentry.com.au/tac-adhesive-203-spray-contact-high-heat-clear-20-litre/p/7100162
Curious - Can't you get re-ring stock and make a new re-ring? thanks for the great videos.
Hey mate, a great question. The purpose of my video was to see if I can use the exact reinforcement ring that Pearl installed in the exact place, which we did.
Normally, I would cut a reinforcement ring out of the shell offcut, or another shell off cut. But this was more an experiment on the fly to try a few things done differently.
Great work. I really like watching your videos . Do you profile drum bearing edges ?
Thanks Tony. We appreciate you saying so.
Hey mate,have you ever come across thin foil stuck to the shell . I have a sonor performer phonic and the wrap came off or fell off and now I'm stuck how do I take this foil off??? HELP!!!
Oh yes Ralph. Unfortunately! The two most difficult restos that I e ever done were a black wrapped 80's Yamaha recording with unbelievably hard-to-remove glue and a Sonor wrapped kit that where the wrap came off and left silver stuck to the shell.
In these, and similar cases, you need to mechanically remove it with a sharp plane blade used as a scraper - always with the grain. You can still use thinners, if it softens the material, to make it easier. Let me know how you go. Thanks for the question. Tony
Thanks for the video and showing the possibilities !!! I taught students to use table saws for years and years... Im not trying to tell you how to do your job. But is much safer to put the small side between the fence and blade when cutting that tom down. The wider it is between the fence and blade the more chance to twist and get a kick back. Second thing is ... why not use a bandsaw for cutting the scarf ... Free handing on the circular saw is a very VERY bad idea. Especially for someone watching this who doesn't understand the possible problems and accidents that can happen on the table saw.
Just thought it would probably be better to show people the safest way. Of course your absolutely right...The router is a better choice. Anyway... thanks for a great video of some possible solutions..!!!
Mark, all good thoughts and advice there. Thank you.
One of the issues that I've found over the years is that skill-less people will favour the dumbest things over the safest things; add to this dull cutters or blades and low level skills and accidents are inevitable.
One way I help here is actually demonstrating many of the conceivable ways that these jobs will be done and executing that with skill and precision so that people can see it's dangerous.
I never do anything that risks life, limb or even the job but I'll try many different ways as DIYers will use what they have on hand to do what ever they are trying to do.
That said, I think I make the point more clearly in demonstrating the many ways to do things. I know it doesn't excuse the perception of high risk and carelessness (which could not be further from the truth) but instead it's my intention to demonstrate the high skill levels necessary for higher risk tasks in their effective execution, which should be pretty obvious by now if you've watched a few of my videos.
But thanks again, I have a bunch coming up that set the bench marks too.
Thanks for reaching out and commenting.
Kind regards Tony.
Which sounds louder ?
The one you hit louder mate.
Hey tony,
Are you able to let me know what it would cost for you to do the same for a maters 10 and 12 I have?
Hi Tristan, I now only do this kinda work for the show. It is speciality work, so there aren't many who can do it and even less who can make it like factory or better than factory. So sorry I can't help you. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Excelente canal
Thanks for watching
What blade do you use on the saw ?
Hi Paul, Tong uses a fine tooth Festool blade.
www.festool.com.au/fine-tooth-saw-blade-for-veneered-and-laminated-board.html
Pearl conveniently uses the same hole spacing measurement on their lugs as the distance between the bearing edge and the first lug hole?
Oh never mind. 5mm difference
Cheers Bryan.
que animal !!!! como va cortar esos tones como se ve que no tiene otra cosa que hacer .
Thanks mate, more cut downs to come. Enjoy!
Put new skins on a 10x10 and a 10 x 6
Which sounds better live no mics ?
Depends of what kinda drummer you are and how you hit a drum. If your a hack and play into a drum it will all sound crap.
Remember, Depth is not equal to volume, nor deep drum more tone or vokume. It's a basic in drum physics but many drummers believe the advertising and not the science. All the best.
@@KillerDrumsTV
Brother you dont know what your talking about
10x10 will out do a 10x6
Keep an eye out for our 2024 films, I put a 10x10 right next to a 10x5 and the lesser blows the great out of the water in this show down.
The interior of those drums is almost better than the exterior🤔
Ha ha yeah! Far less stage light and road wear time
I would absolutely use feather boards instead of my fingers to hold work piece to the fence in this situation. Blade is way too close to fingers!
Also, blade height need not be so high during cutdown and scarf joint cut operations in particular. Too much exposed blade means more fingers disappearing! My two cents, worth one cent.
Hey mate, all advice to save your bits and pieces are invaluable. That said, if you have sharp blades there is rarely a problem. Accidents happen with inexperience, hesitation, wrong set up and a lack of confidence when someone is pushing the material into a cut instead of letting the cut make the way through the material. Also keep in mind that high blade has a purpose, it actually better as it spreads the cutting edges further apart and makes a large flat surface in the middle to stabilise the material. This flat surface is key to stability, but again DIYers have trouble because their fear is counterintuitive to their needs and they often have blades that are not sharp, this fear of the blade introduces more risk as it's the flat section of the blade, I.e. more non cutting areas that protect you from user errors and associated accidents.
All in all, if you have shape blades, think of the physics and logical and have good confidence in your skills, there is not much left that can fail, but the material, which does fail, but no stable flat surface and blunt blade make this unfortunate situation horrifically going to be worse off.
After 35 years on the saw, I've seen smart people do the dumbest/careless things and they've lost fingers. Yet I've seen dumb people just follow those simple principles and kept all ten fingers.
But I apologies if the blade work looks cavalier. In the up coming resto videos, I might explain all this stuff and why I do things a certain way, after trying them all, and seeing others fail.
I appreciate you comment. Enjoy the films.
Tony.
Do ya think ya might be somewhat reckless with your Table Saw ? It would take you 10 minutes to build a fixture to hold the work flat against the fence while keeping your appendages safe.
And... why don't you use a measuring tool or a dial indicator on a base to determine your blade height? Come on man I know you know better. This sets a really bad example for the young rookie..
Cutting a scarf joint on a band saw or a thin blade hand saw would produce a far better joint. Just say'n... You have good knowledge. Don't be a hack.
Ha ha, Possibly, but after 40 years experience it’s not that dangerous with sharp blades, but we don’t recommend others trying it.
better call it how to loose your fingers drum Tv, that is not the best way to cut it down sir
Ha ha funny. Yeah this is the point, I try all kinds of ways to do it, as I discover it to show the difference between different ways, in both risk and result. The truth is, an experienced tradesman WITH ALWAYS SHARP BLADES never has any real risk of losing a finger. It's always blunt tools and low experience that leads to injuries. Simply I could cut down drums with a chain saw and kitchen knife if it's sharp.
Wow… love you videos BUT please …please, don’t use the table saw like that! You will cut your finger(s) OFF!
Take my advice from a fellow drummer and cabinet maker!
Drums are so cheap now, theres no need for this kind of carnage. After being destroyed, they are now completely worthless.
What a waste
It’s a waste to leave them long and in a shed, never to be played again. I’m happy to chop anything. They always sound much better once I’ve worked on them anyways.
I think he explains the reason for cutting the drum down. Nothing is ruined! It's not like he's doing this to a set of 1940s Slingerlands. These were mass produced, non collectable drums and nobody wants deep shells anymore unless you're into the hair bands from the 80s.
Why ruin a perfectly good drum?
Customer is king. They wanted them shortened and now they use it all the time.
I too am not keen on the deep drums. I cut my 24/18 kick to a 24/14. It made all the difference. I have some toms to work on next. Yup