Ford 4.6 SOHC Timing Chain Replacement - Out of Vehicle
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
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Link to product in video:
4.6 Timing Chain Replacement kit - amzn.to/2CFf3JF
In this video, we have a Ford 4.6 SOHC motor out of a Mercury Mountaineer. We are going to replace the timing chain as it is very worn.
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Do you have to drop the oil pan to remove the timing chain cover and is grinding the first three teeth off the ratchet in the tencher
To anybody doing this, do yourself a favor and get the CAST IRON tensioners, not the plastic ones that come in a lot of the kits. The cast iron ones are superior in every way. Do you really want to have to do this again when one of the plastic ones fail?
finally a good timing video on these older 2v engines. Other videos just elude to what to do, you give a good step by step visual. Thanks.
You are very welcome!! Thank you for watching!! :)
How did you line everything up because I took my timing cover off and nothing is lined up. Do I need to rotate the crank in order line everything back up. Please help . Thank you.
@@t.farris1755 yes you do, keep rotating crank bolt until everything is lined up as said in the video, it's a 18mm. They sell a crank holding tool that makes this job easier but it is possible to do without it too!
Nanchi Nanchi if I’m standing front of the car facing the engine which way should I rotate the engine clock wise or counter clock wise?
@@t.farris1755 either way is good but I would recommend you rotate it clockwise, that's the way Ive done it before.
If it was mine I would Squirt some oil all over those guides and chains before putting the cover back on because on first start up those chains will be dry, good video. thanks for sharing
Letting the chain suddenly slip could throw a valve into a piston. Should use cam holder tool while removing tensioners. Also, stuff a rag in the oil pan opening to keep things from falling into pan
"not a big deal" my guy lol
yea, iould suggest just a beefy vise grip works well.
@@Novagunner Or just keep the crank key at 12 o clock and valves can't hit pistons.
@Tommy Harrington you sure not 11 o'clock?
It is 11 o’clock. Keeps all pistons below deck.
Letting the chain slip can bend a valve😭😭😭 wth!! Cry now laugh later lol
It's been 5 years since I did mine this video was a good refresher thanks brother
You’re welcome!!
If you change the chains , you should replace the gears as well. Taking the motor out to do a timing kit replacement is unnecessary. It's easy to just take out the rad and shroud to take the timing cover off. You should also do the water pump and oil pump while you are at it. It's important to clean the oil pan out if your guides are worn or pieces are missing. Royal pain in the ass to drop the oil pan though.
Drop oil pan? Don't you just unscrew the pan?
I think he means while the engine is in the car. The K-Member is in the way of the oil pan so you have to lift the engine up to get clearance and then it just barely slips out. Its a pain in the ass. @@MeatBird
finally a good descriptive video. extremely helpful in current job of replacing a head on 2010 police interceptor. spark plug hole was stripped out and not fixable. video will be up soon. anyway congrats boss for giving some good content to the community
Without removing the head, a permanent repair for Ford Modular Engine Spark Plug Threads is well documented in many YToob vids.
Great video I need to do that to my town car I excessive engine rattling when I’m driving lately and you know this mechanics always want an arm and a leg to do a timing chain
Reclaced mine a couple years ago still rattles in high rpm
I just went to give my 302 a big hug.
302 is a great Motor but if I replace my 4.6L it. Will be with a freshly rebuilt 300 six cylinder.
@@royceanderson3389 With a big ass hair drier too lol
@@madmikesprops Pulled a Bobcat on a equipment Trailer with a 77 f350 equipped with a 300 and a 4 speed for 3 year's with no problems. Good low-cost Motors that anybody can rebuild and they don't cost hardly anything.
Best dam Motors Ford ever made.
@@royceanderson3389 Thats freakin rad. I totally agree 👍
I agree!! I have both engines. A 302 in a 96 F150 and the 4.6 in a 2000 Marquis. I wish the Marquis had the 302.
Used this again 2 years later on another modular engine that I rebuilt. Just as good a the first time!
Using again now ha ha ha. 3rd modular thanks again!
Helpful, thank you. You make it look deceptively easy.
Crankshaft keyway can be set at 9 o'clock position to do this, it lowers ALL the cylinders down far enough to prevent valve interference. Ford actually recommends it in the case a camshaft slips and no need to lock the cams down... it's in the Ford manual. You can't go wrong cause those dark chain links do the timing for ya on the marks.
@Tee Mack can't recall where it sets. I'm thinking 6 o'clock?... for TDC. However, once you set the keyway at 9, it won't be at 6 o'clock, it'll be more like 7 or so, just off a little. It makes lining the links up a little harder, but still doable so long you double check the marks with the links. Find TDC first, then turn the keyway to 9 o'clock, then remove everything, then put everything back in reverse order.
@Tee Mack let me make a correction, it's not 7 it's about 5 o'clock. First set TDC for number 1, then back off the crank counterclockwise till the keyway is at 9 o'clock position... NOT the cams, the crank keyway. That should put the crankshaft mark at about 5 o'clock because at TDC that dot is at 6 o'clock position. Once set do not turn anything, cam or crank, then put chains in place lining up the links with the dots for cams and crank. I've done it this way twice and it's easy you can't go wrong cause those links will line up everything. Once the chains are in place and tight you can rotate that engine till dooms day with no valve interference issues.
@Tee Mack one more quick thing here. Once you set that "crank" keyway to 9 o'clock position, if by accident you turn the cams, do not worry any, there's no way a valve can hit the pistons so long as you KEEP the crankshaft keyway at 9 o'clock. In fact, at that position, you can actually turn the cams if you need to line up the marks with the chain links. Hope you get it all running, it's work on those engines, they are a bit tough... happy trails.
@Tee Mack that's it, sounds like you got it. With that keyway at 9, it lowers all the cylinders just enough that no valves can make piston contact. It's the only safe way to do it and doesn't cost you anything for special uneeded tools. This process is actually in the Ford repair manual.
@@garyr7027I hope you're right, I couldn't find a good cam tool for my 4 vlave lincoln. And I have a big trip next week, fingers crossed it works.
Very good video strait to the point very clear not over complicated like some.
Thank you!!! :)
Nice job with the Black and Decker matrix. nobody gives them enough credit.
Finally, after 3 years of using it on camera, you are the first one to comment on it. Lol I do love that tool! :) extremely underrated
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll i was thinking the same thing i have 2 of them in my shop and they do great for the money spent
Also he put the chains and guides on dry. He did not pre-lube them. This will cause premature failure.
Cam rotates because its got tension from the springs. Cam is tring to find a relaxed position
True, and if the engine is in TDC it's risky letting it slip on a interference engine. That right cam turned on him... 😲
I followed this video. The links lined up with the marks on the gears and crank gear.. I rotated engine by hand 2x now the links dont match up with the marks on the cam gears or crank gear.
links are there for just the install on the new chains to make sure it’s timed
timing chain links will wont line up with the dot after being turned over
Never understood why people have such a hard time with the chains on these motors. Line up the marks on the gears with the marks on the chains. Its not that hard.
Yea but then when diffrent people start saying take off rollers take off number 1 number 4 number who knows is what throws people off
@@Nelval573 exactly haha they make it harder trying to find an easier way
Question what you do to line all markings up? Did you keep turning the crank until everything lined up? I’m trying to find out how to make sure everything is in its correct position. Thank you sir.
Good video. It's so much easier to do it with the motor on the floor like that. I don't have the right stuff to pull my motor out.
Honestly, it is easier to do in the vehicle because this engine is a pain to pull and put back in. :)
I'd prefer working with the engine on a stand so I don't have to use my old knees to stoop over and get up!
Very good video. Gave me the confidence I needed‼️🤣 thanks
Thanks man! Glad to help!
Awesome video, Chad, you made it look like a walk in the park. Thank so much for sharing and your time. :D
Thank you for watching!!!! :)
Xup
hey man great video - I'm about to do this job for the first time on my 2011 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I watched a ton of videos and many say once you lock the cams with the cam locking tool to not rotate them again with the chain off, or it could mess up the timing. but then most videos end up rotating them slightly with the tool off, to line up the chain properly? little confused by this
Woodruff key at 12 oclock and you dont have to worry about valves contacting pistons
What a fantastic video
You are supposed to lock the cams before taking the chains off. The cams spinning freely like that... that valves will hit the pistons causing valve damage. If you don’t know what you are doing than you shouldn’t be making videos. People LOCK THE CAMS FIRST!
How do you lock the cams?
brian turner well maybe you should have the balls to make the video
Yes, in a perfect siutation where you had the cam lock tools, it'd be ideal. If you keep close care of the cams positions when removing the chain, you'll be fine, and If the timing marks match on the cam sprockets to the timing chain, it's in time, lol...
Brian is correct...this service should not be done w/out locking the cams...spend the money/rent the tool to do it!
@@ETKSauron required on some engines like a GM 3.4 which has no timming marks,,,4.6 a walk in the park
Chad, how many miles were on this engine requiring a timing chain replacement? I have a 2000 Ford F-150, 4.6L with 126K and original timing chain and water pump. Typically, how many miles on the engine do you do a timing chain replacement? Well done video, it sure is much easier to follow with the engine out of the vehicle and excellent lighting. Thank You!!
Hi Ron. I own a f150 and a Marauder with 4.6s 2 valve and 4 valve engines. The marauder started acting wired at 150k so changed the timing chains, guides, and phasers. Chains where good but the phasers and guides where worn down to metal. Got lucky with no serious damage.
That scare made me change out the timing chains on my truck. Chains where good but the other parts where very worn.
My friend who is a mechanic of 25 years suggests 100k-120k.
I would have used the cast tensioner with the restrictor plate update due to rods starving for oil.As well as billet aluminum guides
good for you
ok I have removed timing chains before setting engine to TDC. Should I lock the cams in the proper 11oclock and 1 o'clock first, then turn the crank to 6 o'clock?
Thanks
Can you get to the oil pump with a flex head wrench while the oil pan is still on? I’m about to be doing this and wanna change my oil pump if I can get to it
Good job my guy 👍
Are the chains the same for both sides or is there a left and right chain?
Aren't you suppose to use a cam holder tool? If so letting the top go like that would damage valves, would it not?
no I have done these without the cam holder. Just set the crankshaft cog about 9 o'clock and you won't risk hitting pistons and valves when you release the tension on the chain.
4.6 2 valve you don't have to use cam holder
This is a great video but at what point do these engines start to fail? Can this job be done with the engine in the car? This pretty much queered me on Fords. Also how many miles was on this engine?
I just put my 2006 f150 4.6 in time same as your video rotated motor few times but colored links don't line back up is it true I have to turn it a ton of time to get that to happen
The relationship of turns to lining up the colored links is not 1 to 1. Like you mentioned, it takes several turns to get it to line up again.
Good question and good answer. Thanks guys
Great video, really helped me on getting the timing set. Im working on a 96 mustang block with 03 mustang (PI) heads. I re used the old tensioners off the (PI) head because they were a lot easier to compress but once I had the guides in and the tensioners in. The chains have a lot of slack and play. Should I use new tensioners or do I have another problem?
@@Athefleetmechanic yes. New ones
This is a great Video Sir. I appreciate this so much. Just out of curiosity. If the timing chain ever breaks on this engine. Will the valves be ok???
Hey James! Yes, the 4.6 2 valve engine is an interference engine. That does mean, if your timing chain slips a tooth or breaks, it could result in a bent valve or 2.
@Chad Williams and what happens if 1 or 2 valves bend?
How bad is it
And will the engine run?
Because my chain slipped a few teeth car was running but with a knock.
I put the chain back on time, the chain only slipped on one bank due to a bolt that cracked through the timing cover.
After fixing the timing, will it run without a knock or will it knock Because it may have bent valves?
i think i messed up my engine ,when i removed those tensors the camshafts kicked back like 3 links then i turned them back by hand with a socket.did i bent the valves?
Not as long as the links marked lined up with the marks on the cam sprockets and crank mark!
So do u not need a cam holding tool for this job. I was told it was very necessary
I didn’t use one, but it makes it very handy
Thank you for sharing this . Nice video bro...
Thank you!!
Dude thank you so much helpful video I have a 01 Marquis that needs a timing chain replacement and this video helps a lot thanks
I am glad my video could help!! :) Thank you for watching!!!
When you release that tensioner and the cam slips the valves dont hit the pistons? Im confused. I always thought when the crank keyway was at 11 o'clock it put #1 at tdc?
If it is TDC, then the valves are all the way closed for that piston that is all the way up. So, nothing would hit. Valves bend when the valve is stuck open and the crank is still spinning causing the piston to hit it.
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll ah ok I see.. Thanks.
So its safe with no holding tool?
@@kdub6667 no
How many miles did the motor have
excellent video,Will be doing mine soon,except mine has a bent valve on the front cylinder.
Probably due to not securing the cams. When they move like in the video they bend the valve guide rods on cylinders 1 and 6
Hi can you please help me with the timing Mark?
You aren’t worried about slapping pistons when turning the camshaft with a wrench ?
I would lock the camshafts in place with a shaft clamp or vise grip, it's not a big deal until one skips hard enough for the valve to hit a piston. I've seen them bend from that light of an impact.
Vice grips are not a bad idea if you don’t have the right tool. Good point! Thanks for watching!
What happens if you don't lock it down and how would one go about now if he messed it up or not? And how to fix it
@@bradbrewer399 the camshafts will move to a neutral position due to the valve spring pressure on the valve stems. That will force the valves into any pistons that are at the top of their cylinder. This impact will happen with enough force to bend valves. The engine will misfire or simply run poorly, it depends on what valve is damaged. In any case if you bend a valve, you could do a cylinder compressoion test, or leakdown test on each cylinder, or a smoke test... if you have a leak you rebuild the head.
How do I know if anything is bent
@@bradbrewer399 do the tests I listed, look them up on Google. Or take it to a shop.
My 2002 Mustang GT does not have the black chain links. Is that normal on the original chains? Thanks a TON for this video. I understand now what to do.
If you are talking about your factory chain, it may not have the black chain links. Those are added for the replacement chains to make it easier for the person reinstalling it. I appreciate you watching! Thanks!
Great video. Thank you.
Good work
Why do i see some videos dropping the oil pan to remove the timing cover and also and also would it be a good idea to grind the first 3 teeth off the ratchet on the tenchener
2002 Explorer 126k; rookie attempting to remove the cover and see what's going on. Fearing I'll mess up this timing thing which Idk anything about. For example, if just a guide or tensioner do you need to do anything to ensure timing is still good...if I leave chains on?
How can i put my car in TDC if i already took the tensioners and guides off and the camshafts are being held by a special holding tool so they wont spin and the pistons hit the valves on my 2002 mercury grand marquis 4.6 2v v8? Before i took everything apart i had put it to TDC and now the marked links wont wont align right on the marked spots on the sprockets and i made sure i spun the crank till it was a TDC any help please!?
did you have any problems with misfires and intake spacing problems
None at all
how'd you get your driver side chain to not slip when pulling it tight? every time i do it it slips off by a tooth.
doing a swap right now had to buy intake spacers and now have a misfire all over the board
Great vid thank you very much!
Why not go ahead and put a new oil pump in it since you're in this deep anyway?? beats taking it apart twice...
I would have only use OEM parts
Good video , you should have put oem parts back on , after market stuff fails overtime that’s why they are cheap!
He kinda did...Ordering from Rockauto means he's getting OEM spec despite which 3rd party company made it.
One question can you put the nails that have the top of the chain
Hey Alfonso, can you explain more of what you mean by nails?
Good job thanks for the tip 👍✌😃
Thanks for watching!
Did you not lock the cams in place ? I have been putting mine off because I can't find a decently priced cam shaft holding tool .
Great video. Thanks.
You're welcome!!!
How do you tell if the cams are positioned right? The new heads I bought have no marks on the cam sprokets...
Did u ever figure it out
@@Cobra-uo3gm haha nope. Swapped that motor out, drove it 2 years and hed gaskets blew. Sold that truck
Followed your video and the right side is nice n tight but the left is loose. Not much but not as tight as the right. I can turn the cam slightly counterclockwise and it will be as tight as the right.Could that be if there a valve in the open position? Could the turn the engine over by hand to see if it tightens up?
If you left the cam phasers in and turn the engine over by hand without the chain on it will not cause the valves to hit the pistons. Not sure where you got that from, but that comes with adding a larger lobe camshaft and not getting the right cam for your stock valvetrain. It would have been much better to show how to set the timing Mark's if the cams were accidentally spun and then that is where the timing Mark's would come in handy.
This is an interference engine. It absolutely will make PTV contact if the cams and crankshaft are too far out of phase.
@@anterpants oh ok I gotcha, didn't realize that at first. Thanks for the clarification
no cam phasers on the 2v 4.6 .. the 3v's got the cam phasers
Great video very informative .. I just have to ask why did you take out the engine just to change the timing chains/guides?
I’m going to assume this is a junkyard engine that he’s planning on using soon .
You are correct! :)
Is that a cloyes kit and did you have to get a upgraded bolt for the right side tensioner ?
where can you get replacement guide bolts mine are so worn they have thin sections in them?
Nice.
Awesome job done 😂
Question? why does cam shaft have to be 30 degrees if you go by lining up the top and bottom dots by moving cams anyways?
It puts piston #1 very close to Top Dead Center. This puts the camshafts closest to where they will have to be when the chains are on. According to the Ford service manual the keyway on the crank should be at the 315 degree position (45 degrees past horizontal on the passenger side of the crank). This initial positioning keeps the valves from hitting the pistons while you install the chains. As you have seen in this video, it's not all that critical since the camshaft will spring out of place with the chain removed.
Correct me if I’m wrong but this is the 4,6 3V mustang correct! ?
Very awesome dude
Big greetings from Russia! Thank you for such detailed and high-quality content! I have one question for you - on the ford crown Victoria 1992 oil sump painted inside the engine or not?
I have never seen ANY oil pan painted on the inside. Since it is usually filled with oil, it won't rust.
@@rustyul Hello! Thanks for the answer! Most likely you just did not pay attention to the color of the pallet inside. :-) in fact, 90% of the cars of the existing pallets are painted both inside and out.
Great Video.
Tanks
Chad what state do you do your work in?
great video, can this be done without taking the engine out?
Yes!
how many miles were on this engine and on y 4.6 sohc when does it need to be donw?
Why do some people claim that you need to hold cams in place otherwise it can damage stuff
Why do you pump the trigger on that impact driver?
Oh, my impact driver is pretty crappy. I use it mostly to snug the bolts, then use a ratchet and socket to tighten the bolts.
How long does the engine need to run with the chain off time for it to bend a valve and loose compression?
And only on one bank...
Start-up
i got a 1994 ford thunder bird with the sohc 4.6L V8 in it, for driving cars i was used to a 1997 ford escort with the 2L 4 cylinder engine in it... so when i rev the engine on the thunder bird i hear and think 4000rpm but it is only going 2000rpm... weird but, eh
GOOD VIDEO MY BROTHER
Nice, can't wait
Is this the same process for 4.6 3v??
Could you do this without disassembling the top end?
I am pretty sure you could do it without removing the intake manifold.
Yes just take out the 3 bolt in the front of each Val cover it you don’t wanna take them all the way off but it’s better to remove them so you can see your marks line up on both ends very easy job..
What will happen if one of the timing chains jump from one of the marks when the engine is complete and decide to fire it up?
Then it wouldn’t be in time anymore and it would need to be torn back down and re-timed.
First off what car are you working on and do you have to remove the engine from the car???
I don't know what the OP is working on, but I have a 97 Thunderbird. This job can easily be done with the engine in the car. If you are old like me, it's almost easier to remove the engine and put it on a stand to work on it. Bending over to work on an engine on the ground (or very low in the car) is very difficult for me. I've had some serious orthopedic injuries in my 57 years.
Thank you man great jop
Taking shit apart with a torque wrench is not advisable dude. They are for tightening things.
Will this engine bolt up to the trans in a ford explorer that came with the 4.0l V-6 ? Does anyone here know ?
Just had mine done. Every once and a while I’m getting some chain slap or something??? Idk
Ha I was freaking out out that left side cam now I know not to thanks bud
Hey buddy, I'm debating to do the job myself because every mechanic is charging 600+ for the job that's not including the part.
My question is do you recommend anyone doing this from under the hood? My car is a 2000 Ford Mustang GT.
if u have the tools why not? just follow the instructions very carefully
@@TheJosephayal Done plenty of car work i just typically don't mess with internals. Makes me nervous but you know what i just may do it myself.
I have a video posted im not sure its even the timing that needs to be done. A small tapping sound usually happens after the engine is warm.
Davonte Young have you done the timing chain or did you end up taking it in?
Ok. I think I can do this thank you!
i changed the spark plugs the spark plug wires the ignition coils the intake manifold and the car is still shaking so i went to a mechanic and he did a leak down test and a compression test. then he said two of the cylinders have low compression and that's what's causing the car to shake, so he said i have to do a head job. i did a head job already on this car back in 2014 and it's 2021 so 7 years and i have to do another one
That is a bummer :( Did the head job end up fixing your overall issue again?
That metal from the guide is embedded in the rod and main bearings-i always cut the oil filters open and look between the weaves for metal deposits,engine should get timeing,oil pump, main and rods,and cleaned out very good.no torque wrench you shouldn't be teaching this to other people in my opinion!