I had one 4.6 reach 375K miles, while the other was in need of repair at 200K. but still very good life on them. I bought both of these trucks brand new in 2003 and 2005.
@@BennosCamaro The only mods I did on my tbird was a pi intake swap and muffler delete but left the cats on, it wasn't a big crazy difference in performance but the engine responds a bit quicker than stock. 4.6 Mustang parts can be compatible with tbirds. Just keep in mind that the 4.6 engines from 1991 to 1998 had non pi heads including the Mustangs. 1999 and up 4.6 engines came with pi heads the Mustangs, trucks and vans execpt the crown vic, town car, and grand marquis, those cars didn't get the pi heads till 2004.
Gustavo Ayala thanks for response thats interesting info i will consider the pi intake. How does she sound with that muffler delete with cats? Would love to hear it. I am considering doing the same or with a flowmaster 40
I have the 4 valve version of the Modular in my Mark VIII currently @ 172k miles and still running smooth and powerful. It has great torque I never have to go past 2500 rpm to go the speed limit of 45 its amazing the power is available at any rpm but at 3250 rpm all hell breaks loose snd all the runners open and the pull is epic to 6100! Ford killed it with the Modular
I am driving a 2010 Ford F-150 with a 4.6 V8 3V engine in it. I am absolutely loving it! I was curious to what the engine block looked like and then I ran into this video. I am a lot wiser now, thanks for sharing!
@@WhoamI202333 valves have boosted performance due to the extra valve. More HP and will rev higher if I'm not mistaken. Fords 3V V8 designs also all had cam phaser technology, which alters cam timing I believe. None of the 2V V8's had this. Basically the purpose of the 3V engines was to add power to Ford's Modular/Triton engines. But it came at the cost of reliability
@@jafaary2614issues if you don’t change the oil religiously. And there was the spark plug issue but there are methods around that issue. There are many 3V’s with over 300,000 and 400,000 miles.
With the right set up your looking at 500hp to 1,000 lol these engines are awesome there fun to work on and build up and see the performance after each upgrade ,I love that almost everything you can do to make it insain is actual budget friendly and really fun to do ,
I don't know about the Forged internals too much money for very little results you can't even notice any difference, go with the billet timing chain guides, maybe cam upgrades they really don't need any upgrades maybe a heavier flex plate for more rotating mass. I'd honesty whouldnt change a thing about the four six maybe some stronger valves
Doesn't need too many upgrades unless you towing then a dual core radiator, the only thing I might do is stronger connecting rods stronger valves but even that's overkill and in the thousands of dollars
Angel Gutierrez is an early 90s lincoln with the metal intake manifold. the gt came with a black plastic intake and the tb pointed to the passenger side.
@@emmittmatthews8636 engine/trans has been flawless. i’ve gone through and replaced all the lights inside and out with LED bulbs and housings and it really makes it not look so dated anymore. i did the rear differential fluid and wheel bearings + seals about 4 months ago. just did the front sway bar links last week cause i noticed they had completely rusted away. the entire rear suspension and fuel system is basically brand new. this winter i hope to get around to replacing all the front suspension and a transmission flush, coolant flush, and a new set of Michelin tires. i’ve had all the paint clayed, polished, and waxed and other than the roof and hood it damn near looks brand new. (EDIT: also some cerakote plastic restoration wipes for all the trim. makes it look like new again. i put it on when i wrote my original comment and i’ve washed the truck 20-30 times since and it’s still very dark.) i tow a 6-7k trailer doing property maintenance and it pulls better than my old F350 with a 7.3 IDI for sure. if yours is the 4.6 3V just make sure and do your oil changes religiously to stop the gunk up that happens with those engines. otherwise, congrats on your new purchase and may it last many more thousands to go!
@@angelgjr1999Very good, was just looking around to find out if I have the 9 thread heads on my 4.6.. My build date is April of 03 so I’m pretty sure it does being so late in the 03 build date..
There was an updated technical service bulletin by ford to switch from 5w30 to 5w20 in this engine. I am buying a town car with the 4.6 l v8, a 1997 model, 100k miles, good engine psi. Previous owner used regular dino oil sae 15w40, I was thinking switching to the 5w30 as it should make the engine work more efficiently as it was designed to be using that weight, but NEVER 5W20 . What are your thoughts? I'll appreciate any input, thanks in advance.
Best upgrades will be a 9.75 drive axle stronger valves dual core radiator maybe stronger connecting rods that's alittle overkill if you got room do a high flow oil pump and bigger oil pan but you will also need a longer dipstick, the crown Vic have a bigger oil cooler but that might not fit some vehicles cause of the steering linkage
He means it's capable of producing low horse power numbers, not high. The number 5 main is a 2 piece design not one piece. Why would anyone want to switch sides with their cylinder heads. The 4.6 2v is a great engine. Keep these engines well maintained they don't like sludge. Conventional 5w20 or 5w30 every 3 to 5k miles.. you'll get 200k to 300k...
I have 329 n change on my 97 f150 4.6l V8 2v with a aluminum to intake not the factory plastic..runs like it was off the line.....a real beauty of a motor 302 windsor not bad at all
I watched this because I’m considering purchasing a Ford Explorer with the 4.6L engine. After watching, I have a few concerns: 1) No replaceable camshaft bearings? I don't know, having to replace the heads and cluster caps if the cam bearings wear out is NOT a "feature", it's a cheaper way to make an engine. 2) He talks about the cam lobes being narrowed; I hope they’re correctly heat treated, because the loading area on a narrow cam lobe is increased over a wider lobe. 3) Also, did anyone else notice him saying the jack screws have left hand threads and that “tightening them requires turning them counter-clockwise.” The video show the bolts being turned to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten. Otherwise, it looks like a nice engine.
Speaking as a 30+ year mechanic OverKnight I wouldn't be at all concearned about the cam bearing thing,,it's been done that way on many overhead cam engines for many years (datsun/nissan and toyota's did that on the four cylinders in the late 80's and many continue as such now) also the cam having narow lobes is no issue because they are roller design so don't get anywhere near the strain and stress of flat tappet cams, basiclly no wear with roller cams so heat treating of the lobes while still important but isn't nearly as important as flat tappet,,,that's how they get away with the narrow lobes and even helps take some of the abuse off of the bearings also because of the more fluid motion and side loading of the roller design, remember and keep in mind that cams turn half the speed of the crank so wear is not an issue also making the no actuall bearing thing not a big deal,,,just keep in mind that GOOD and proper type of oil is CRITICAL to theses engines,,use what it calls for and ONLY what it calls for and change it often (I saw a guy once bring on to the shop I worked at that had killed the top end in less than 5 miles because it was cold winter time and he had put only slightly heavier oil in it, called for 5W-20 or 5W-30 he said all he did was use 15W-30 dello in it because that was what he had a bunch of around that he used on a few things around his farm, well it was ok in the hot summer but in the freezing winter it got too thick and starved the top end of oil before it thinned out from engine heat enough to flow enough up to the cam and valvetrain,,,,expensive lesson for the cost of a bit of oil,,,,,just an FYI the early famous 2 valve Cummins in the dodge pickups used only 1 cam bearing on the first jernal the rest just ran it in the cast iron of the block and they live a LONG time that way LOL, also the jack screw on the mains is nothing new certain high reving high stress race engines have been using that setup for many years and it works better than the well proven four bolt mains used in bygone years becuase it ads nearly the strength of a four bolt conventional design or using whats called main bearing cap girdles without iducing block distortion or adding weight to the overall package,,,,as one who is not fond of new things and being old school older timer I was reluctant to accept this "new"design but after running the ever living dog snot out of one for a few years now I'm convinced,,,,I own a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 in it with the 5 speed, the truck had 42,000 on it when I got it it now has 110,000 on it and hasn't had a single issue or any work at all done to it, it's completely stock and has had NOTHING done inside, I am second owner and bought it from a friends widow after he died, the only thing it's had done to it is a set of compact pro tunning lab headers and a cat back flowmaster exaust, K&N fresh air intake system, a chip and computer worked over by a local computer guy to rid it of that annoying top speed cut out that ford equipt it with so it will now run out above the regulated 98 or so that it use to top out at no mater how hard you pushed the go pedal, some better injectors and high delivery fuel pump and a few other minor tweaks and shen now runs a full 317 rear wheel horsepower and tops out at something well above what the 100mph speedo will read (where the speedo stops reading I still have number 5 gear and plenty of RMP left but that's my chicken out point LOL,,,I figure somewhere around 120mph and a stock f150 4x4 at that speed is a tad frieghtening my friend LOL,,,,I live in Idaho near a hill called white bird hill,,it's about 7 miles of 7 and 8% grade and I like to race guys in thier whatever trucks (or cars) up that hill, I have not been outrun too many times up that hill because the little ford has no problem running 100+ up that hill,,,I just stuff her in thrid and let her wind up till she can't wind up anymore,,,or basically 6000 to 6200 rmp where the rev limiter kicks in and hold her that way for the entire YES the entire 7 miles, and at that rpm shee's running 90 to 95 mph, then at the last 2.5 miles or so I go for fourth and I'm pull 100+ in a instant no problem at all,,,I could run number 4 all the way but a couple of the bends on the hill are too tight to make the truck stick to the road and you need to back out and catch third, and even at that you are getting tire squeel so I just leave it in 3 untill the road stays strait that last couple miles,,,,I even came up that hill one day hauling a 1988 ford f150 4x4 extended cab (my 2001 is an extended cab) on a car trailer,,I was minding my own bussiness when cummins dodge picked on me and had to pass,,he was also hauling a truck on a trailer that was nearly the same as I was hauling,,,so I decided to put it down and see if I could keep up with him,,,well I not only kept up but got around him and was pulling away a fari bit by the top of the hill, I just did my third gear let her scream trick and was running between 80 and 90 mph without issues (a couple of the coners were honestly iffy at that speed pulling a trailer admitidly but my little ford handled it),,,I figured either the guy chicked out or it was a sick cummins but the guy followed me into grangeville the next town after the top of the hill just to ask me about the little ford and he said he was giving it all the cummins had and that it wasn't completely stock but had some exaust intake and pump work done on it (earlier 2 valve) he didn't believe mine was just a 4.6 untill I opened the hood,,,he also couldn't believe I ran it so hard,,, LOL,,,that's ok when it blows it's cookies (if it ever does at this point because I've been running it hard like that for 60,000 miles that I've had it living in canyon country climbing hills and what not and it still runs perfect with zero issues) I have plans for an even nastier little 4.6 setting on an engine stand in my shop,,,so yes I have GREAT faith in this little engine.
@@Yophillips3272 learning how to do a full engine rebuild. Think I need it due to gaskets. Need all the help and info I can get. 180k miles stock minus alternstor, battery, and whatever the fuck hibdons did with it. 2007 lincoln towncar. Runs great despite after replacing rear differential due to accident, the speedometer says 30 at 35 and 60 at 72. Any tips on replacing gaskets, what products to use, etc would be very helpful and appreciated. I think I'm leaking coolant into my pistons
I hope you bought that Explorer. I have never seen cam bearings in any Aluminum OHC engine I've ever worked on. These 2V (2 valve not 2 venturi) 4.6 run to 400,000 miles regularly and in abusive environments. I kinda hate working on Fords but the 4.6 2V is one of the best engines they've ever produced.
These first gen 4.6L Ford's were such a great engine. It's a shame they were so anemic. Upgrading to an aftermarket cylinder head and cams could literally double the output of these engines. Makes ya wonder why the manufacturer didn't just do it from the start...
Just bought a 2010 PI and love it. I gotta admit after watching this I didn't understand how this engine holds up. Powdered metal rods? Cracking the cap off the rod? Aluminum bearings? Seems odd to this old man.
The expedition used this engine design until 2015. I have an 05 expedition with the 5.4L and it’s sitting at 226K and has no issues. Key differences are variable valve timing on the 5.4 and the spark plug design. The 5.4 modular is just as reliable as the 4.6 modular if you maintain the 5.4 a little.
@@cxjoker9515 the issue with spark plugs backing out...is that common with the 5.4 or the 4.6? I can’t ever find a definitive answer..I just bought an f150 with the 4.6
My four six runs many hours a day oil stays full for thousands of miles, I personally like the plastic tensioners they are spring loaded and don't put much stress on the guides. Plus they have a better seal too
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
@@weskirkland5850 True, but there were way more powerful options from other manufacturers at the time, as well. One that immediately comes to mind is the LT1 350 V8, which blew the 4.6 at the time out of the water.
@@TheTerminator310😂😂 5.7 litre high fuel consumption v 4.6 litre fuel efficiency of course there's a Power Differential 😂😂. This doesn't make the 4.6 gutless you've compared it to a bigger cube engine 😂😂
@@Saffsa Doesn't matter. It was still gutless, compared to the competition. We're not talking about fuel consumption, we're talking about power/performance. And the 350 is an engine that has been around since the 1960's and was murdering the Crown Victoria 4.6. A good motor, but it was anemic, as hell.
@@TheTerminator310 you said it was gutless comparing it to a bigger cube engine 😂😂 a gutless comparison would be if it was seriously under powered compared to another manufacturers 4.6 V8 😂😂
Ratcheting tensioner has a know problem of stretching the timing chain, also the ford oil pump needs to be upgraded to a mellin high flow pump for this engine to be reliable .
289. 390. 429. I cant remember too well but i do remember dad handing me the keys to 1964 ford powder blue 2 door coupe with a 390 police interceptor Galaxie 500. He said keep it under 100....and he laughed and walked away.
171000 miles 2004 ford f150 2 door xl my first truck still going it's used I like it cause it has a lift and is good for the flooded streets where I live I'll post a pic or videos
Weight savings, only the intake can be a problem after thousands of heat cycles it may crack and leak…There are aluminum options victor jr. or precision performance are 2 aluminum intakes that come to mind, also intake off a bullitt Mustang
The 93 Lincoln mark 8 block was beefiest of all 4.6 but the crankiness and pistons should be replaced with forged components - with a blower and forged internals you could approach 1500 hp
"The spark plugs threads were payed absolutely no attention during the entire design process. Reducing attention paid to spark plugs threads allowed more attention for the important things like hookers, cocaine, and warm Keystone Light". Hahahahaha
My 99' Crown Vic P71 has lost 3 plugs in it's life. Once before my dad bought it in 2012. Once while my dad was driving it, and again while I was driving it just a couple months ago. That being said, the Triton is one hell of an engine. This crown Vic has been in my family since I was 12 and I'm 26 years old now and driving it every day. 179,739 miles and going strong. She's idling right now as I type this lol
I haven't lost any spark plugs, just tighten them good. If you torque them to old service data they definitely will pop out. 11ftlbs try doubling that at least.
Eh, it was good for the 90’s. After the horsepower deficit of the 70’s and 80’s, an engine breaking 200 hp was pretty revolutionary, pun intended. Also, if you’re looking for a V8 that will last forever, go underpowered. 500hp produces a lot more wear than a 220hp engine.
1st ford I’ve owned 01 expedition 4.6. Engine seems ok but the rest of it sucks. Electrical gremlins seems to plague these things. Starting this week on replacing the heater cores. Requires removal of a million screws and nuts and all kinds of crap. I’ve always owned Chrysler and I can honestly say, will not be purchasing another ford.
One of the most reliable engines on the road today
Low HP
works like a damn charm though. had my 06 f150 for 11 years and she's got 220k miles on it. cleanest engine i've ever had
@@alexandershultz9913 Just broken in!
@@ss-qw4bw thats why its the more reliable one. Less power=less stress
@@ss-qw4bweasy to make reliable hp not to mention these motors love boost… not bad for a non performance truck motor.
475,000 miles on my 4.6L engine and still going
170k on mine so far, hope it'll make it that far
Outstanding, i replaced mine at 420,000 after It devoloped a tic. Trans still runing strong.
I was wondering if your engine is still running 4 months later. Im sure it is, crown vics are indestructible.
Wow when you get to a million, let Ford know, and they will give you a brand new f150.
I had one 4.6 reach 375K miles, while the other was in need of repair at 200K. but still very good life on them. I bought both of these trucks brand new in 2003 and 2005.
2002 4.6L 285000 and running great! love these motors.
Have you rebuilt and replaced gaskets yet?
275,000 miles on my 05 f150 and it's still going strong.. Not very fast but it is reliable.
How's that f150 still doing?
Love these videos, reminds me of my old automotive class days.
I love the 4.6 my 1997 thunderbird LX has, it ain't no speed demon but it hauls ass and keeps up with today's sports cars and trucks.
I got the same but the 94 tbird. But mine isnt so quick, bit sluggish atm but worked on her. Hard to find modification options
@@BennosCamaro The only mods I did on my tbird was a pi intake swap and muffler delete but left the cats on, it wasn't a big crazy difference in performance but the engine responds a bit quicker than stock. 4.6 Mustang parts can be compatible with tbirds. Just keep in mind that the 4.6 engines from 1991 to 1998 had non pi heads including the Mustangs. 1999 and up 4.6 engines came with pi heads the Mustangs, trucks and vans execpt the crown vic, town car, and grand marquis, those cars didn't get the pi heads till 2004.
Gustavo Ayala thanks for response thats interesting info i will consider the pi intake. How does she sound with that muffler delete with cats? Would love to hear it. I am considering doing the same or with a flowmaster 40
@@BennosCamaro the exhaust sounds like an f150 with the 4.6.
@@BennosCamaro For the pi intake swap there's few videos on UA-cam, I recommend chrisfix, Chrisfix shows how to do the swap easier.
The youtube Algorithm is doing God's work.
I have the 4 valve version of the Modular in my Mark VIII currently @ 172k miles and still running smooth and powerful. It has great torque I never have to go past 2500 rpm to go the speed limit of 45 its amazing the power is available at any rpm but at 3250 rpm all hell breaks loose snd all the runners open and the pull is epic to 6100! Ford killed it with the Modular
"high horsepower" I choked.
dooooooo you see how old this video is?
@@rialbb yes, but at the same time Lexus had much higher numbers...
Reading up on my 2002 Lincoln Continental with this engine. "high HP" is NOT how I'd describe that car lmfao.
@@BlackTownie999 probably just product placement trying to sell the engine at the time lmao
@@BlackTownie999 yeah, also cost thousands more.
never had a 4.6L let me down yet, they go well into the 200k 300k range easy
most engines can go to 200k-300k if theyre maintained. my 4.6 has 318k
@@marktheamazing3683 my clock reads 216K, it was ran hard the first 160k of its life, ex-cop car
@@marktheamazing3683 Nissan: "...nahhhhh"
MarkTheAmazing my 2010 4.6 3v has 315k on it so far!
@@MichaelFletcher-to7mm hell yeah!
I am driving a 2010 Ford F-150 with a 4.6 V8 3V engine in it. I am absolutely loving it! I was curious to what the engine block looked like and then I ran into this video. I am a lot wiser now, thanks for sharing!
3v is the one that got issues
I’ve also got a 2010 with a 4.6 but mine has the 2v. Still am not sure what the difference is and why they offered 2 and 3v the same years.
@@WhoamI202333 valves have boosted performance due to the extra valve. More HP and will rev higher if I'm not mistaken. Fords 3V V8 designs also all had cam phaser technology, which alters cam timing I believe. None of the 2V V8's had this. Basically the purpose of the 3V engines was to add power to Ford's Modular/Triton engines. But it came at the cost of reliability
@@jafaary2614issues if you don’t change the oil religiously. And there was the spark plug issue but there are methods around that issue. There are many 3V’s with over 300,000 and 400,000 miles.
With the right set up your looking at 500hp to 1,000 lol these engines are awesome there fun to work on and build up and see the performance after each upgrade ,I love that almost everything you can do to make it insain is actual budget friendly and really fun to do ,
Giving me motivation to work on my 4.6 f150 lol
What modifications do you recommend to start with?
@@ValentinArzolabillet oil pump gears, mild cam, forged internals & your choice of forced induction
I don't know about the Forged internals too much money for very little results you can't even notice any difference, go with the billet timing chain guides, maybe cam upgrades they really don't need any upgrades maybe a heavier flex plate for more rotating mass. I'd honesty whouldnt change a thing about the four six maybe some stronger valves
Doesn't need too many upgrades unless you towing then a dual core radiator, the only thing I might do is stronger connecting rods stronger valves but even that's overkill and in the thousands of dollars
This looks like the 1996-1998 Mustang GT engine. The 1999-2004 Mustang GT does not use coil packs and has a larger intake manifold.
Angel Gutierrez is an early 90s lincoln with the metal intake manifold. the gt came with a black plastic intake and the tb pointed to the passenger side.
just picked up a 1997 Ford Expedition XLT with the 4.6L V8 with only 105k miles. excited to see how long it lasts!
How's she going? I just picked up an 04 F150 4.6l with only 60k on it!
I just hope to keep the rust away so it has a nice long life.
@@emmittmatthews8636 engine/trans has been flawless. i’ve gone through and replaced all the lights inside and out with LED bulbs and housings and it really makes it not look so dated anymore. i did the rear differential fluid and wheel bearings + seals about 4 months ago. just did the front sway bar links last week cause i noticed they had completely rusted away. the entire rear suspension and fuel system is basically brand new. this winter i hope to get around to replacing all the front suspension and a transmission flush, coolant flush, and a new set of Michelin tires. i’ve had all the paint clayed, polished, and waxed and other than the roof and hood it damn near looks brand new. (EDIT: also some cerakote plastic restoration wipes for all the trim. makes it look like new again. i put it on when i wrote my original comment and i’ve washed the truck 20-30 times since and it’s still very dark.) i tow a 6-7k trailer doing property maintenance and it pulls better than my old F350 with a 7.3 IDI for sure.
if yours is the 4.6 3V just make sure and do your oil changes religiously to stop the gunk up that happens with those engines. otherwise, congrats on your new purchase and may it last many more thousands to go!
FOREVER
Change oil no more than 4000 miles it will last you at least 300k
I'm a little paranoid about engine sludge so I also use engine flush at every oil change.
i love my 4.6 all the power in the world
I just picked one up. An 04 F150 4.6l 2 valve. (Heritage).
I'm pretty shocked at the power and torque it has to be honest.
Love my 2003 Mustang GT.
I see you everywhere Angel. How’s it going??
@@NewEdgeDesigns Good, and you?
@@angelgjr1999Very good, was just looking around to find out if I have the 9 thread heads on my 4.6.. My build date is April of 03 so I’m pretty sure it does being so late in the 03 build date..
I have 97,000 on my Grand Marquis and change the oil every 3000.
320k miles on my '02 V8 ford explorer. 86k on my 01 Lincoln town car. Both have been great and are still running great.
There was an updated technical service bulletin by ford to switch from 5w30 to 5w20 in this engine. I am buying a town car with the 4.6 l v8, a 1997 model, 100k miles, good engine psi. Previous owner used regular dino oil sae 15w40, I was thinking switching to the 5w30 as it should make the engine work more efficiently as it was designed to be using that weight, but NEVER 5W20
. What are your thoughts? I'll appreciate any input, thanks in advance.
I still use 5w30 in mine. It’s just a little thicker oil.
I use 5w20, but ONLY FULL SYNTHETIC. Never had an issue for the 6 years I've ran 5w20
30 in summer, 20 in winter
5w30 and I have 400k miles. I buy whatever oil is on sale
Just switched to 5w-30 Pennzoil full syn on my '03 4.6 F150
I have a 1997 Ford F 150 everything is stock and runs great , you guys recommend me doing any preventative maintenance or any modifications?
I just got one to was thinking the exact thing
Best upgrades will be a 9.75 drive axle stronger valves dual core radiator maybe stronger connecting rods that's alittle overkill if you got room do a high flow oil pump and bigger oil pan but you will also need a longer dipstick, the crown Vic have a bigger oil cooler but that might not fit some vehicles cause of the steering linkage
He means it's capable of producing low horse power numbers, not high. The number 5 main is a 2 piece design not one piece. Why would anyone want to switch sides with their cylinder heads.
The 4.6 2v is a great engine. Keep these engines well maintained they don't like sludge. Conventional 5w20 or 5w30 every 3 to 5k miles.. you'll get 200k to 300k...
if one cracks you can get another and swap it no matter which side is
I have 329 n change on my 97 f150 4.6l V8 2v with a aluminum to intake not the factory plastic..runs like it was off the line.....a real beauty of a motor 302 windsor not bad at all
love the 4.6 in my 94 towncar..damn fine engine
Just purchased a 2001 Ford Expedition with the 4.6. Looking to rebuild any suggestions?
best oil weight to use in the 4.6 crown victoria? I use 5w30 even though cap says 5w20
I watched this because I’m considering purchasing a Ford Explorer with the 4.6L engine. After watching, I have a few concerns: 1) No replaceable camshaft bearings? I don't know, having to replace the heads and cluster caps if the cam bearings wear out is NOT a "feature", it's a cheaper way to make an engine. 2) He talks about the cam lobes being narrowed; I hope they’re correctly heat treated, because the loading area on a narrow cam lobe is increased over a wider lobe. 3) Also, did anyone else notice him saying the jack screws have left hand threads and that “tightening them requires turning them counter-clockwise.” The video show the bolts being turned to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten. Otherwise, it looks like a nice engine.
Speaking as a 30+ year mechanic OverKnight I wouldn't be at all concearned about the cam bearing thing,,it's been done that way on many overhead cam engines for many years (datsun/nissan and toyota's did that on the four cylinders in the late 80's and many continue as such now) also the cam having narow lobes is no issue because they are roller design so don't get anywhere near the strain and stress of flat tappet cams, basiclly no wear with roller cams so heat treating of the lobes while still important but isn't nearly as important as flat tappet,,,that's how they get away with the narrow lobes and even helps take some of the abuse off of the bearings also because of the more fluid motion and side loading of the roller design, remember and keep in mind that cams turn half the speed of the crank so wear is not an issue also making the no actuall bearing thing not a big deal,,,just keep in mind that GOOD and proper type of oil is CRITICAL to theses engines,,use what it calls for and ONLY what it calls for and change it often (I saw a guy once bring on to the shop I worked at that had killed the top end in less than 5 miles because it was cold winter time and he had put only slightly heavier oil in it, called for 5W-20 or 5W-30 he said all he did was use 15W-30 dello in it because that was what he had a bunch of around that he used on a few things around his farm, well it was ok in the hot summer but in the freezing winter it got too thick and starved the top end of oil before it thinned out from engine heat enough to flow enough up to the cam and valvetrain,,,,expensive lesson for the cost of a bit of oil,,,,,just an FYI the early famous 2 valve Cummins in the dodge pickups used only 1 cam bearing on the first jernal the rest just ran it in the cast iron of the block and they live a LONG time that way LOL, also the jack screw on the mains is nothing new certain high reving high stress race engines have been using that setup for many years and it works better than the well proven four bolt mains used in bygone years becuase it ads nearly the strength of a four bolt conventional design or using whats called main bearing cap girdles without iducing block distortion or adding weight to the overall package,,,,as one who is not fond of new things and being old school older timer I was reluctant to accept this "new"design but after running the ever living dog snot out of one for a few years now I'm convinced,,,,I own a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 in it with the 5 speed, the truck had 42,000 on it when I got it it now has 110,000 on it and hasn't had a single issue or any work at all done to it, it's completely stock and has had NOTHING done inside, I am second owner and bought it from a friends widow after he died, the only thing it's had done to it is a set of compact pro tunning lab headers and a cat back flowmaster exaust, K&N fresh air intake system, a chip and computer worked over by a local computer guy to rid it of that annoying top speed cut out that ford equipt it with so it will now run out above the regulated 98 or so that it use to top out at no mater how hard you pushed the go pedal, some better injectors and high delivery fuel pump and a few other minor tweaks and shen now runs a full 317 rear wheel horsepower and tops out at something well above what the 100mph speedo will read (where the speedo stops reading I still have number 5 gear and plenty of RMP left but that's my chicken out point LOL,,,I figure somewhere around 120mph and a stock f150 4x4 at that speed is a tad frieghtening my friend LOL,,,,I live in Idaho near a hill called white bird hill,,it's about 7 miles of 7 and 8% grade and I like to race guys in thier whatever trucks (or cars) up that hill, I have not been outrun too many times up that hill because the little ford has no problem running 100+ up that hill,,,I just stuff her in thrid and let her wind up till she can't wind up anymore,,,or basically 6000 to 6200 rmp where the rev limiter kicks in and hold her that way for the entire YES the entire 7 miles, and at that rpm shee's running 90 to 95 mph, then at the last 2.5 miles or so I go for fourth and I'm pull 100+ in a instant no problem at all,,,I could run number 4 all the way but a couple of the bends on the hill are too tight to make the truck stick to the road and you need to back out and catch third, and even at that you are getting tire squeel so I just leave it in 3 untill the road stays strait that last couple miles,,,,I even came up that hill one day hauling a 1988 ford f150 4x4 extended cab (my 2001 is an extended cab) on a car trailer,,I was minding my own bussiness when cummins dodge picked on me and had to pass,,he was also hauling a truck on a trailer that was nearly the same as I was hauling,,,so I decided to put it down and see if I could keep up with him,,,well I not only kept up but got around him and was pulling away a fari bit by the top of the hill, I just did my third gear let her scream trick and was running between 80 and 90 mph without issues (a couple of the coners were honestly iffy at that speed pulling a trailer admitidly but my little ford handled it),,,I figured either the guy chicked out or it was a sick cummins but the guy followed me into grangeville the next town after the top of the hill just to ask me about the little ford and he said he was giving it all the cummins had and that it wasn't completely stock but had some exaust intake and pump work done on it (earlier 2 valve) he didn't believe mine was just a 4.6 untill I opened the hood,,,he also couldn't believe I ran it so hard,,, LOL,,,that's ok when it blows it's cookies (if it ever does at this point because I've been running it hard like that for 60,000 miles that I've had it living in canyon country climbing hills and what not and it still runs perfect with zero issues) I have plans for an even nastier little 4.6 setting on an engine stand in my shop,,,so yes I have GREAT faith in this little engine.
Lol I wouldn't even worry about it by the time something wears out 200k+ miles, it's probably due for a rebuild or new car anyways.
@@looseballs1966 yes. Thank you.
@@Yophillips3272 learning how to do a full engine rebuild. Think I need it due to gaskets. Need all the help and info I can get. 180k miles stock minus alternstor, battery, and whatever the fuck hibdons did with it. 2007 lincoln towncar. Runs great despite after replacing rear differential due to accident, the speedometer says 30 at 35 and 60 at 72.
Any tips on replacing gaskets, what products to use, etc would be very helpful and appreciated. I think I'm leaking coolant into my pistons
I hope you bought that Explorer. I have never seen cam bearings in any Aluminum OHC engine I've ever worked on. These 2V (2 valve not 2 venturi) 4.6 run to 400,000 miles regularly and in abusive environments. I kinda hate working on Fords but the 4.6 2V is one of the best engines they've ever produced.
These first gen 4.6L Ford's were such a great engine. It's a shame they were so anemic. Upgrading to an aftermarket cylinder head and cams could literally double the output of these engines. Makes ya wonder why the manufacturer didn't just do it from the start...
Either that or offer a recall on every 96 to 98 mustang for free upgrades
They did with the PI heads and intake.
@@allanb3222 they did? Well wished that i had mine during that time period
@@chriscamp5190 They changed in the 2000 year models to the PI heads and intake.
They didn’t want the power to be near the 4v cobras 300 hp. I agree, the 2v’s should have been sold with 300 hp to the crank at least.
What is the best intake manifold for a 99 crown vic lx.
ATP or Authentica. A New Old Stock Ford revised intake with the aluminum cross over would be the best, but will be hard to find.
When trying to crank my 4.6 Lt it pops and blows smoke out the back of motor and valve cover gasket out and won't start.
What is the bore and stroke in INCHES? Most of us in this country don't know what 90 mm looks like.
how does that intake compare to the PI
My favorite V8 engine design
Just bought a 2010 PI and love it. I gotta admit after watching this I didn't understand how this engine holds up. Powdered metal rods? Cracking the cap off the rod? Aluminum bearings? Seems odd to this old man.
Is it reliable to buy 2005model ford expedition?
axc clemente no. Expedition only used this engine up until 2004
The expedition used this engine design until 2015. I have an 05 expedition with the 5.4L and it’s sitting at 226K and has no issues. Key differences are variable valve timing on the 5.4 and the spark plug design. The 5.4 modular is just as reliable as the 4.6 modular if you maintain the 5.4 a little.
@@cxjoker9515 the issue with spark plugs backing out...is that common with the 5.4 or the 4.6? I can’t ever find a definitive answer..I just bought an f150 with the 4.6
@@thenathanrox if the truck is from 2007 or below, it has the spark plugs that breaks. 2008 or above is all good. Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 2010 4.6
@@TheLow57 thanks bro
"high horsepower" bitch what? this version doesn't even kick 250 ponies.
engine swap
No
:24 how would an engine jump timing?
Loose chain due to wear on the links making the chain longer and worn tensioners
Mathew Kromeo chane brake
Wow now I’m more happy with my f150 lol
My four six runs many hours a day oil stays full for thousands of miles, I personally like the plastic tensioners they are spring loaded and don't put much stress on the guides. Plus they have a better seal too
I have 756,132 miles on mine and I have never changed the oil or the filters. It just keeps going down the road. 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Sure you don't 😂
I use tequila for oil..
79,000 ,miles on my 08 f150, no problems so far
04 ,112k mike's for 5,500 is this a good deal for this car?
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
No worries, if it’s quiet during operating temp it’s nothing serious..could even be exhaust manifold gasket leak..
I have one with 410k original everything except belt tensioner pulley.
These engines were gutless as all hell, but very reliable. Very smooth engines, too.
They weren't gutless when they were new. Modern Engines have made them gutless but they were damn nice when they came out vs the 5.0.
@@weskirkland5850 True, but there were way more powerful options from other manufacturers at the time, as well. One that immediately comes to mind is the LT1 350 V8, which blew the 4.6 at the time out of the water.
@@TheTerminator310😂😂 5.7 litre high fuel consumption v 4.6 litre fuel efficiency of course there's a Power Differential 😂😂. This doesn't make the 4.6 gutless you've compared it to a bigger cube engine 😂😂
@@Saffsa Doesn't matter. It was still gutless, compared to the competition. We're not talking about fuel consumption, we're talking about power/performance. And the 350 is an engine that has been around since the 1960's and was murdering the Crown Victoria 4.6. A good motor, but it was anemic, as hell.
@@TheTerminator310 you said it was gutless comparing it to a bigger cube engine 😂😂 a gutless comparison would be if it was seriously under powered compared to another manufacturers 4.6 V8 😂😂
1,389,440 miles on my 4.6 and still going strong
my Linc 07 has only 35000 miles on it ))) can you imagine for how long more I will be happy )))))))
Hahahahaha I love mystang GT 04 automatic dark gray it’s not as fast as mystang 2014 GT sterling gray 5.0 6 speed but I love it
Clockwise for tightening is the norm. Why would somebody need to be reminded of that?
Ratcheting tensioner has a know problem of stretching the timing chain, also the ford oil pump needs to be upgraded to a mellin high flow pump for this engine to be reliable .
Tensioner yes but the oil pump is a 3v engine issue
It was also used on the gt500 the 3v needed more oil cause it had the variable cam gears
I have 399k miles on my 4.6 2v I should make 400k tomorrow. Good engines just don't be in a hurry
Impressive
“V6 modular engine” Wut??? Was this a thing that was supposed to be made or am I confused?
Uh, left hand threads get tightened by turning them anticlockwise, not clockwise.
Ford explorer almost 300.000 on it little noise sounding like a diesel but still going....
I would check that out, that dosent sound good
I thought it was normal for ford...ha its so old its not worth the repair bill..sounds like lifters or something deeper
Timing chain tensioner
289. 390. 429. I cant remember too well but i do remember dad handing me the keys to 1964 ford powder blue 2 door coupe with a 390 police interceptor Galaxie 500. He said keep it under 100....and he laughed and walked away.
171000 miles 2004 ford f150 2 door xl my first truck still going it's used I like it cause it has a lift and is good for the flooded streets where I live I'll post a pic or videos
great video!!!
190,000 checking in. :)
My 4.6L has hard plastic air intake and valve covers. 😥
Weight savings, only the intake can be a problem after thousands of heat cycles it may crack and leak…There are aluminum options victor jr. or precision performance are 2 aluminum intakes that come to mind, also intake off a bullitt Mustang
Thank you so much.
The 93 Lincoln mark 8 block was beefiest of all 4.6 but the crankiness and pistons should be replaced with forged components - with a blower and forged internals you could approach 1500 hp
The 93 block did not use jack screws - manufactured by Teksid SPA Italy
I had my timing chain guide on bank 2 shatter :( Replaced it and she's still going :)
The cockroach of engines
Explain I’m genuinely asking not trying to be an asshole
@@johntron1237he means that you just can’t kill these engines just as it’s hard to kill a cockroach.
I'm falling in love with a car guy 😭😭here's me tryna be knowledgeable I'm so lost
Just say you like his car. The rest will follow
2010 f150 400,000 km
200k on my 96 grandmarquis I love it bout it with 162k
258,000 and cylinder #6 compression ring failure $2000 later runs better then ever
Crack connecting rod bearing? Sounds like something Hunter biden would use😄
oh give it a rest
4.6 ......289?
281 cu inches actually
"The spark plugs threads were payed absolutely no attention during the entire design process. Reducing attention paid to spark plugs threads allowed more attention for the important things like hookers, cocaine, and warm Keystone Light". Hahahahaha
Read in narrators voice lol
The ‘91-‘96 as shown here, had zero spark plug issues. It was only the early truck engines that had less threads that were corrected by ‘99.
My 99' Crown Vic P71 has lost 3 plugs in it's life. Once before my dad bought it in 2012. Once while my dad was driving it, and again while I was driving it just a couple months ago. That being said, the Triton is one hell of an engine. This crown Vic has been in my family since I was 12 and I'm 26 years old now and driving it every day. 179,739 miles and going strong. She's idling right now as I type this lol
Granted it sat for 2 or 3 years in my dads yard before I brought it back around..
I haven't lost any spark plugs, just tighten them good. If you torque them to old service data they definitely will pop out. 11ftlbs try doubling that at least.
Connecting rods are crap...
you had me at 4.6L 220hp being HIGH hp engine......high HP compared to what? 4.6oz mouse?
Eh, it was good for the 90’s. After the horsepower deficit of the 70’s and 80’s, an engine breaking 200 hp was pretty revolutionary, pun intended. Also, if you’re looking for a V8 that will last forever, go underpowered. 500hp produces a lot more wear than a 220hp engine.
390,000 on my '06 p71
aircraft standarts? lol my God ford, this is propaganda 101
1st ford I’ve owned 01 expedition 4.6. Engine seems ok but the rest of it sucks. Electrical gremlins seems to plague these things. Starting this week on replacing the heater cores. Requires removal of a million screws and nuts and all kinds of crap. I’ve always owned Chrysler and I can honestly say, will not be purchasing another ford.
Those things were giant turds
no they were not...
the 4.6 is legendary go do your research ya ignorant man child
@@julian-H47 yea....legendary turds.
Your a 🤡
they were giant but not turds
210,000 '97 F-150
Toyota lexus still better ohc v8s but this is a great engine
A Toyota 4.0 or 4.7 will blow this Ford motor away. But still a good engien
I have both and they both are awesome in different ways.
Scotty Kilmer has entered into the chat😂