This is "simple" ?? Lmao, this is a 600-step process and basically every single thing in the engine bay has to be moved or removed. Unless you do this for a living, Idk anyone who would call this "simple".
@@tylerross3847 I work at Ford, have for a number of years so I maybe biassed, but in my experience, these are very simple. I'm watching this for entertainment cause i'm a fucking freak like that, but.. yeah lmao I can do this particular job in about 2-3 hours, assuming nothing breaks. Do simpler ones exist? Well, sure they do, but this is still pretty basic comparing to so many other vehicles. Some cars force you to drop the engine from the subframe, out the bottom, before you can do jack **** to the timing due to clearance issues, so.... yeah i mean this is pretty basic.
@@SamuTheFrog Yeah no, check out any American pushrod setup even to this day. You can have a new timing chain installed in 45 minutes with half as many steps on an LS. Overhead cam designs are needless over-complication that no one asked for. For over 100 years we used 1 camshaft to control valve timing and then engineers did what they do best, created solutions to problems that never existed.
As someone who was a beginner mechanic watching youtube videos years ago, I thank you for not relying heavily on impact drivers & such. Many videos used to just impacts, and skip on valuable learning moments like leaving a car in gear to break free stubborn crank bolts & leaving the belt on to break free pulley fasteners. Good man. You showed how a low-budget newbie might handle it with common hand tools, and that is super respectable. Ps., if it is an automatic, leaving it in park is fine 👌
Yeah. I’ve had people ask why I don’t invent in a lift and some things. I may at some point, but I also like to be relatable to the majority of people who don’t have them. I also have impacts I enjoy using to speed up processes, but with aluminum it’s also better to do it by hand to make sure you’re not stripping/cross threading. It is hard with the auto since you’d have to lock the flywheel. Even in park the crank will just spin.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I never thought about it that. Makes sense. I use impacts on aluminum all the time but you make a good point. & yeah, i always used the belt trick when dealing with autos. A leather belt or ratchet strap & sinch it down to the nearest rigid structural point & it is usually good enough to keep it from spinning.
I am from Saudi Arabia. I own a 2010 Grand Marquis. After watching your video, I did the timing system maintenance myself. Thank you for this valuable information. 👍
I sort of remembered doing this on my Town Car and my F250 in 2014. I now have an older F150 that needs to be worked on. I thoroughly enjoyed your video with your detailed explanations as well as tools you had/used to make the project easier. You're well spoken, easy to understand, and no annoying music to get in the way. This was, by far, the best video for anyone to watch who plans to undertake this repair. It was very educational.
I'm in the process of doing this job on my 02 Explorer. First major job I've done to it in the 185k miles I've had it. A good tip of advice for anyone doing this job on this engine, don't worry about breaking plastic clips and stuff, as it is impossible to disassemble the thing without breaking at least half of them. Only things you really have to worry about is the plastic intake manifold and plastic valve covers.
I love Danny Johnson’s videos man so informative any back yard mechanics can do it I fully rebuilt my 01 mustang gt form engine to gas tank because of this guys tutorials thank you so much your videos are greatly appreciated!
I've been putting off doing this job, but now that this perfectly detailed and clear video is here, I'm ordering parts and will do it as soon as they arrive. Thanks man.
Schwinn needs to make those chains like they used to make them in the 50s and 60s. Love those guides made out of cheap plastic. I used to think timing belts were junk, but look at all of the vehicles now with chains that need to be replaced and all of the labor it takes. Those chains look like they belong on a Schwinn BIKE !
Another great video, thanks!! I'll be retiring in twenty months, at which time, I plan on starting to rehab my 2001 Bullitt that I bought new in Sept. 2001. I'm now watching these types of vids to see what I'll be getting myself into. I've got a little over 135,000 miles on her, so this is one of the first jobs I want to do along with a new oil pump and water pump at the same time for peace of mind and continuous reliability. Keep the SN95 vids coming!!
Congrats on upcoming retirement, and that’s super awesome you are a Bullitt original owner. You may have seen my brother’s supercharged Bullitt on the channel
Here is the playlist for all the repair videos too if it helps you find them better Mustang Maintenance and repair ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7hBrphoRniyYjb707PpPTu.html
I have a 05 Ford crown Victoria. 4.6. I think i have a timing chain issue so im gonna have to go in there and take a look. Watching this video really helps. Thanks
Found your channel about a week ago and I've watched just about every video on the 2v. Picked up another subscriber. Thanks for the great video on how to do this job without going insane. Will attempt this job soon.
Wow, this is really detailed. I have a timing cover leak, but I think I'll go ahead and attempt to replace the timing components as well. Thank you for posting.
This is an amazingly detailed and helpful walk-through video, thank you! Seems like this job is a bit too complex for me, but at least I knew before I started 😅
Perfect video for a DIYers! Definitely this process is not for me. 😂. I enjoyed the details provided, please do this in each of your videos.🎉 I'm scared how much this'll cost at the shop😂
I have a full playlist of videos I’ve done like this. Maybe you’ll like the fuel pump, brakes, suspension stuff: Mustang Maintenance and repair ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7hBrphoRniyYjb707PpPTu.html
A lot of work. Keeping from messing up the timing is the nerve racking part but so is getting all the stuff reassembled. Your video makes it look fairly easy and straightforward but obviously time consuming. I don't know if I'm going to attempt to do this or hire someone. I think I have a timing chain issue because my scan tool is showing the timing wandering a bit at idle. If it is a timing belt issue then I'm disappointed since I only have 75,000 miles on my 02 GT. I just replaced the alternator and fuel pump so I guess I'm going to start having other issues.
Hey man I did this job today on my 2011 Crown Victoria P7B but ran into an issue. I've asked about 100 people online and everyone is telling me something different, so I thought I'd ask the expert directly. I replaced the chains, guides and tensioners with Melling parts. The driver's side chain lined up perfectly dot-to-dot. The passenger side is off 1 link. I know you mentioned you had to do take off the holding tool & adjust the cam, but many people are urging me not to do it - and say if it's not lining up then something is wrong. The other issue is I don't have a friend or anyone who can help, so I'd have to do it myself. I know you had your bro to assist. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you sir
With new tight chains it’s necessary as I did to adjust it. That’s my opinion. I would try loosening the cam holding tool just enough that you can gently turn the cam with the wrench to have it move to where it needs. Be very careful not to bend the cam tube or have it go loose and spring back. Otherwise find someone. Even the missionaries from the church of Jesus Christ of ladder day saints can come help hold it. Once done, rotate it and make sure no valves touch. It’s normal to have some slack build and release so don’t get concerned when you see the slack do that as you turn the crank. If it’s a problem, turn the crank backwards if the bolt won’t loosen to get it back where it belongs. Dot your dot is how it should work in my opinion
It's funny how they had bolt holes on the older harmonic balancer but deleted them for at least my 2010 5.4L 3V, so I had to make a harmonic balancer holder with a cheater bar using a pinion flange tool and a few bolts to hold the spokes of the balancer steady while I torqued the bolt. I had to use 2 four foot bars to loosen the bolt. There's no way bump starting the engine would have loosened it, but I had thoughts to try that initially. I just knew this one would be stuck pretty well.
It should be okay for awhile but should be addressed at some point. You don’t want the chain to skip a link. Try holding the gas pedal down while turning the key to start. It will allow the car to crank but not start. After doing that, start it normally and see if it helps. It may help prime the system with oil to get oil pressure into the tensioners.
@@al-mubdizahir8704 not unless the kit comes with new cam phasers. It’s a good time to upgrade the tensioners and chain, but some people have worked on a technique to lock the chain and change out the phasers without removing the timing chain and all the parts involved. You’ll have to find some videos on the wedge tool they use
Mine was somewhat similar, and I’m not sure if it was just new chains/tensioners that made it slightly off, but you’ll see in the video I use the 18mm box wrench on the passenger side. While holding the wrench, I loosen the cam holding tool just enough to have some play. I moved the wrench back and forth until the timing dots are lined up on the crank and cam gear
Can you still change the oil pump without dropping the oil pan fully. Just replacing the pump and not the pick up tube. And can you recompress the tensioners and reuse them if they are brand new and your just going back in to replace the oil pump?
Yes, the tensioners can be compressed and a pin put in to hold them. The oil pump should be accessible with the pan in place or slightly dropped. The only time I removed it was with the pan off, but here it is for reference ua-cam.com/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/v-deo.htmlsi=G6LqQlr8JgWcciFv
If you do end up having to slightly drop the pan, the support bar would be useful so you don’t have to remove the engine ua-cam.com/video/EFtYGxFk8tc/v-deo.htmlsi=qAwOJFh2ZQE8p1EK
So I’m doing this job and go to take the power steering pump off and figured out someone has done something like this before because the bolt that was behind the line is completely missing. Now I’m gonna have to find a replacement bolt and take the line off just to put a bolt in
hey man great video - I'm about to do this job for the first time on my 2011 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I watched a ton of videos and many say once you lock the cams with the cam locking tool to not rotate them again with the chain off, or it could mess up the timing. but then most videos end up rotating them slightly with the tool off, to line up the chain properly? little confused by this
You can carefully loosen the holding tool and slightly move the cam back or forward with the 18mm wrench on the end of the cam gear like it shows in this video to line up the dot, but only a link or two total movement. The reason why is because some pistons are at or near top dead center and you don’t want them to contact. You’ll want a strong grip pm the wrench with a second person to help line it up
You can carefully loosen the holding tool and slightly move the cam back or forward with the 18mm wrench on the end of the cam gear like it shows in this video to line up the dot, but only a link or two total movement. The reason why is because some pistons are at or near top dead center and you don’t want them to contact. You’ll want a strong grip pm the wrench with a second person to help line it up. Just don’t let the holding tool loose and have the cam spring back to its neutral position and strike a valve (some pistons will be at top dead center
2002 Explorer. A slight screeching sound under accel. 2days later misfire code. B4 shutting off it began to seemingly "rock" forward / backwards under accel. Suspect timing. Current: timing & valve covers off. Found partially broken guides. Left chain loose. Cam sprockets appear in proper position along w/ gear mark. No dots on chains. Question: at this point how can I tell if I'm out of timing? I have the crank and cam holding tools. I'm at TDC. Main Question: can I place cam tool and proceed with timing component replacement without worrying about getting out of timing? this is the best video I've seen thus far
I have a question i put my timing marks just like this but when i put the front timing cover and harmonic balancer the tdc was not lined up with the notch on the balancer and cover?
How can i put my car in TDC if i already took the tensioners and guides off and the camshafts are being held by a special holding tool so they wont spin and the pistons hit the valves on my 2002 mercury grand marquis 4.6 2v v8? Before i took everything apart i had put it to TDC and now the marked links wont wont align right on the marked spots on the sprockets and i made sure i spun the crank till it was a TDC any help please!?
If the cams are indeed held in place where they should be, line the chains up to the top cam gear dots, then line the chains other master link up to the dot on the cam gear. You can move the crank slightly back and forth to line it up to the master link, and if necessary as I did in the video, you may need to slightly loosen the cam holding tools for them to line up to the perfect spot. The crank dot should be 6 o’clock and that leaves the crank key way line at about 11 o’clock
Why do you need a special tool to clamp onto the cam? It looks like you could use vice grips on the chain sprocket or ends of the cam or even wrap the cam with something soft like a belt or bike inner tube. I dont understand what will happen if the cam moves as well. I mean I know it affects the timing but is that something hard to get back to normal? I'd like to see how exactly that works.
There is also something you can use like vice grips, but the can holding tools are very useful especially as you’ll see in the video where I can slightly loosen it enough to turn the cam but not remove the clamp entirely
I got a 2002 Towncar...I'm getting the Red Light Oil Lamp turn ON and engine struggles only during DRIVE at a Red Light. Its fine during Park/Neutral/Reverse. Accelerates Superb
01 Vicky Did timing and oil pump. Ford Performance pump Cloyes timing kit I heard that typical chain noise and drove it 3 days taking it easy on it. Parked it and then proceeded to do the work. Lined everything up and can get about 300* of total rotation. No matter how I work around it. Nothing broke in the old parts to cause valve to slap the piston. It actually ran good, just that typical noise. I've taken the new pump off thinking it may be defective and tried rotating again, same result. It always hits at the same location also. I'm stumped. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm also really close on sending her to a shop to get it figured out.
It’s pretty difficult because the oil pickup tube goes down. You may need to lower the k member ua-cam.com/video/lmwfvgziAxs/v-deo.htmlsi=2CwvgKIMNBQI4Hcr
How long do these typically last? I have some sort of rattle at 2krpm on my 4v. Only apparent in higher gears. Goes away before or after that rpm. Wondering if this might be the issue.
Great video. I’m in process of finishing a head gasket replacement on a 2010 4.6 2v . I replace all of the timing components except for the gears. I lined the crank and timing gears up with the links on the chains and installed the new guides and tensioners. After roasting the engine around 10 complete rotations the dots and links do not line up. Occasionally the links and dot will all line up about 2 links off so it appears the cams and crank are in sink. Do you know about how many revaluations the motor has to turn for everything to line up or did I do something wrong? Thanks
Can you please explain why you have to loosen all oil pan bolts? It seems like you can just take out the bolts connecting the oil pan and the timing cover and then remove the timing cover.
You can avoid the oil pan bolts, just be careful with the gasket from the oil pan to the timing cover as you pry it away and use some RTV on the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan
The proper way is to hold the cams in place because as they sit they are compressing some valve springs, and once released those valves will contact the pistons as the engine is out of time (at top dead center there really only should be one on the driver side that is up enough to hurt anything). It shouldn’t really hurt them (some people hold the cams with the wrench and then gently let them softly come to rest and contact pistons. Its the proper way to do it with the cam holding tools, so that’s what I try to show on the channel. If you end up doing other unexpected repairs once you are in there it’s always good to follow those practices (use the cam holding tool, set the engine to top dead center, etc.). At this point there is a lot that can go wrong if someone decides to turn the crank. You shouldn’t bend a valve by hand, but anyway, that’s the idea.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage (for clarification) the engine is out of time, a piston is at the very top. And if we move the cams a valve could contact the piston.
Hey Danny. I’m doing the chains , tensioners and guides on my 2002 GT and I had two questions. I know the PS Pump has to be lowered to get the front cover off but can you get it off without dropping the AC compressor? And I have the Cloyes kit with steel tensioners but they didn’t provide gaskets. Are there gaskets that are supposed to be used for the tensioners to the engine block or just metal to metal ?
It’s best to drop the ac compressor as well as the power steering, just as the video shows. It also helps to drop the ac to get the crank position sensor out. I don’t believe there are any gaskets for the tensioners
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I got it all apart and cam tools locked in place. I got sooo lucky I decided to tear it down at the first noise I noticed. Just one piece broke off the right hand bank chain guide at the top of the guide where the bolt goes through, it fell to the bottom of the cover and wedged between the oil pan but didn’t go in. It was the only piece that broke off, so all broken parts accounted for 👍
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage hey great video ,I’m almost done with my timing chain problem thanks to you. But I have one question while I’m in the mist of doing it.. when you line that lil notch on the crank pulley to the top stop like you said, when I took off the pulley ,and I watched it as it came out it stayed there but the silver notch when you take off the pulley lines with the 10 degrees
Had a question so today I dropped my oil pan in my 4.6 4v and found metal shavings, I took a magnet to them and they didn’t stick, removed my rod bearings and they were fine, any thoughts ?
do the cast oil tensioners not have a gasket like the oem plastic ones. The new felpro gasket for oem plastic oil tensioners seem a lil odd shaped and thin. Any thoughts?
You made it look easy but I wish you had explained why you put the cam gear Mark's in place and marked the chain with the shiny links off the mark but put a new chain on using the chain shiny link not your mark I do know that chain is got to be in time, while you were there was there a reason you didn't replace the oil pump and give the oil strainer some attion, Got to do my 07 3 valve . Thank you for this great video.
I made the marks when taking it off just for reference. I always make more marks than I need in case there is a question. The chains should lay out with those marks at exactly opposite ends, which it did. When adding the new chains I used the master links as the marks as they should be. It would have been a good time to do an oil pump but I didn’t. I do have oil pump removal in another video for the 4V but the same process if you want to see it ua-cam.com/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/v-deo.htmlsi=w1to5XvEhOIeVsKd
Does anyone know if there is a gasket that is supposed to go behind tensioners? Looks like a mating surface but no gaskets came with it. i already put the whole car together but in fear of putting timing cover back on and trying the start because i want to know if i am missing gaskets.
You will want to buy the crankshaft holding tool and remove the starter to put it in place since the automatic will simply spin even in park when you try to remove the crankshaft bolt
You can carefully put a long wooden dowel or straw into the spark plug hole for cylinder number one and watch as you rotate the crank. Once the straw reaches its max elevation and starts to go back down, it’s at TDC. You’ll see it in this video ua-cam.com/video/lck6BGgU2_M/v-deo.htmlsi=GOFHAR2g3cvU-CWu
question… with the harmonic balencer bolt 32:43 how did you get the bolt off? i had it all off then put the bolt back in so i could turn the engine just put it in without the harmonic balancer. so how do i take this bolt out?
Put the car back in gear if it’s a manual transmission. If it’s an auto you’ll need to use an impact wrench or take the starter out and use a flywheel holding tool
They are sold out on Amazon for the Ford Racing M-6004-462V Camshaft Drive Kit for 4.6L 2V Engine any other Links where I may be able to find this part. ?
Only as needed. With new chains you may need to as the old ones have stretched. When you install the new chains that will be more tight it may require you to slightly loosen driver side to get the chains where they need to be dot to dot
You can put the belt back on until it brakes the bolt loose. If that doesn’t work you can use a flywheel crank holding tool that I can link, but it requires removing the starter which I also have a video on ua-cam.com/video/zD2qEaAZNJQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Z_q4qOviV4DdjvDR
Before all that, try to borrow an impact wrench from someone www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Cordless-Battery-Charger-DCF900P1/dp/B0B9T821KC?crid=36N9P8QX1Y4QS&keywords=dewalt+899&qid=1704007357&s=industrial&sprefix=dewalt+899,industrial,188&sr=1-5-catcorr&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=ba73119b5e573a6360cfe3f86bf2058b&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
The same way, it should crank and not start if the accelerator pedal is pushed to the floor while cranking when turning the key. That’s the factory way to clear a flooded engine
Question. I saw that you didn’t line the master links up instead you got everything else in place(TDC) and made your own mark?? Is that what you did?? Is that okay to do? Because I honestly don’t see how the heck everyone gets those master links to line up all the way around 🤷🏾♂️!!!! I’ll be doing this job on one of my Crown Victorias within the next two weeks.. Thanks in advance for any help and also thanks for this detailed video
The master links don’t line up every rotation of the crankshaft, so it’s much faster to make new master link marks on the chain (or use the new chain). As long as you have the timing marks correct with the dot on the cam and the crankshaft and the master links being on exact opposites as you lay the chain out, it will ensure the timing is correct. TDC is important for this with piston 1 on the passenger side being up, and lock the cams with the holding tool you see in the video as well. If you don’t lock the cams the valve spring pressure will release and rotate them. That’s where you would need that 18mm to get it lined back up correctly
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah I’m gonna order from Amazon thru your link, it says free returns I was just looking for a second opinion. If all fails I’ll try vice grips maybe 🤔 Thank You Again Sir 🫡
Im about to do this on my 96 cobra this weekend, would the process be similar on the cobra? I've been watching this video non stop just to make sure I have it all in my head, just want to make sure this video can be used for reference while im doing it. Thanks again for the video, very helpful regardless.
Yeah, exact same process for the primary chains, but your secondary would be different. I have a video showing DOHC removal (but not install) that I’ll link below. The cam holding tools are different for DOHC
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you so much for the videos! After cracking everything open I found that the secondary tensioner failed on bank 1. The whole reason I decided to take on this job was for one, the ticking would bother the hell out of me at idle, and two, the engine had a lot of trouble producing power after 5k rpm. Really hope this fixes all of that! Im about 70% done, just had to stop because I had to wait for the cam holders (dont ever use vise grips to stop cams from moving, stupid shortcut I though would work). All thats left is trying to remember where all the nuts and bolts go as I wasn't as organized as I should have been. Valve covers are also a big pain to deal with haha. Thanks again and keep up with the great content!
So I am assuming that if you’re also replacing the sprockets and setting the crank to TDC, you wouldn’t have to make your own marks? Just line up the marks on the new sprockets and chains.
Correct. I only made marks to verify when I laid the chains out that they were actually at the ends of each chain. It’s always good to mark it since removing tensioners and such (should the holding tool skip) you’d know which link belonged on the dot
Danny I'm lost please help. I'm put a oil pump in my 2004 gr mustang 4 .6. while putting the timing chains back I had to loosen the cam hold down tool to turn the cam so it would go back to the notch on the cam but my wrench slip off so the cam moved is my car motor no good now I don't no what to do it get it back
Do I have to take the head off now. I didn't loose the one one on the right only the the left hold down tool but my wrench slip off so did the chain ty please
It should still be fine. It also happened to me. Just take the 18mm wrench and put it on the end of the cam bolt as shown in the video where we are holding it in place. Turn the wrench in the direction to put the dot on the cam gear back to where it should be okay
Question that does part number for the bolts can you also get those bolts on Amazon? Or only at ford? I’m Getting a ford bolt and looks exactly like that one but thought I’d ask to be sure.
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragealso I pulled my cam cover off and my chain is tight. Had no reason to do the job but thought I’d check so should I still replace the chain car has 170k ford recommends some mileage like 160k but it’s still tight as it seems. Should I go through the trouble or wait until it actually shows signs of deterioration?
@@joshuahiggins5313 i wouldn’t worry much about the chains. I would be concerned with the timing tensioners. If you hear a rattle/knocking/slapping on startup that’s when I’d change them (or like mine if you hear the guide has broken through the tensioner arm and is rubbing the chain.
hey im rebuilding my 2v and im doing the timing chains aswell but leaving the old cam sprockets, do i still set the chains the same way you did black link to dot or is there extra steps to make sure they’re in time?
The slight rattle I'm hearing under my hood tells me I need to at least replace a tensioner. As long as I'm doing that I might as well replace everything. Do you have any experience with Trick Flow's timing kit?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you. I have a stethoscope coming Monday to see if the rattle is coming from under the timing cover. I'm a woodworker with little experience with working on cars. I've got a 2000 Marquis Grande. So far I've installed a TF upper plenum and CHE rear control arms on my Marq, then helped the mechanic friend who's watching over me to make sure I don't f up install a new intake manifold, new rear control arms and brakes on all four corners of his 2000 Crown Vic So far, so good.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the timing chains are new the gears are the old ones new chain guides,new tensioners ,next I'm going to remove heads to see if any valves are bend or something inside cylinders
Would you mind giving me a time estimation for this job? I have a 04 Ford Explorer and I'm hoping that the valves aren't bent but it has broken the cover from the timing chain slapping it. Is there any advice I can get on that situation?
If the engine is still running and not making other horrible noises (other than the chain slapping around) its possible the chain has not skipped a tooth and no valves were bent. It's hard to say. This job will take you about 8 hours to complete, but the time estimate is difficult because I don't know if you have all the tools, parts, or other things that might hold you up.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I plan on saving to get everything so I can do it all at once but I am making a list of everything I need. The motor doesn't run and won't turn over anymore according to the owner. The starter would make a whining sound as if it's trying to turn it over but it can't. That's what worries me that it could have bent valves. The owner was driving it down the road and it started slowing down and she would press the gas and it would slow down more. She tried to crank it until the battery went dead and then called the tow truck, he tried a jump pack and it wouldn't turn over.
@@tydoyle7752 Good luck. I hope its not ruined. Make sure to get the cam holding tools in the video description. Very helpful to keep them from moving.
That’s a good milage to do this on, and especially if it’s making noise-the sooner the better. It may be as simple as low tension before the oil is pressurizing the system
It will have some play until oil pressure is going. The passenger side will have slack and the driver side will be tight because one is upside down so they give tension opposite until oil pressure is flowing
I have a '99 Expedition w/ a 5.4 engine. Do you know if I can leave out the chain guide for the right side of the engine? It sits above the chain. I have the rail that goes on the tensioner, of course.
It will need the tensioner and the tensioner arm guide when it is operating and there is oil pressure in the engine or it will have too much slack without it. So it will need all the components that came with
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I know it'll need the tensioner and the tensioner control arm. I was referring to the guide that has no tensioner on it. The bolt hole on the cylinder head for the the guide stripped, and I was wondering if I could just leave that guide off. Thanks for your reply.
Hey Danny awesome video great job...My 04 GT snapped the guides at 3500 rpms... Still starts and idles really ruff. You think theres any valve damaged or is just because it's out of time??? Thanks in advance
Once you remove the timing cover you’ll have to see if the timing dots are still lined up. If they are off by quite a bit it’s possible that the valves has been bent, but you would most likely hear that.
I never realized how simple this timing system actually is. Thank you for this information. I can do mine with confidence now.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video. It’s only difficult on the 32V when degreeing cams.
Have you seen the timing system for a ls
This is "simple" ?? Lmao, this is a 600-step process and basically every single thing in the engine bay has to be moved or removed. Unless you do this for a living, Idk anyone who would call this "simple".
@@tylerross3847 I work at Ford, have for a number of years so I maybe biassed, but in my experience, these are very simple. I'm watching this for entertainment cause i'm a fucking freak like that, but.. yeah lmao
I can do this particular job in about 2-3 hours, assuming nothing breaks.
Do simpler ones exist? Well, sure they do, but this is still pretty basic comparing to so many other vehicles.
Some cars force you to drop the engine from the subframe, out the bottom, before you can do jack **** to the timing due to clearance issues, so.... yeah i mean this is pretty basic.
@@SamuTheFrog Yeah no, check out any American pushrod setup even to this day. You can have a new timing chain installed in 45 minutes with half as many steps on an LS. Overhead cam designs are needless over-complication that no one asked for.
For over 100 years we used 1 camshaft to control valve timing and then engineers did what they do best, created solutions to problems that never existed.
now that's what i call a detailed video taking everything apart then all back together , excellent job explaining so simplified for us diy people
As someone who was a beginner mechanic watching youtube videos years ago, I thank you for not relying heavily on impact drivers & such. Many videos used to just impacts, and skip on valuable learning moments like leaving a car in gear to break free stubborn crank bolts & leaving the belt on to break free pulley fasteners. Good man.
You showed how a low-budget newbie might handle it with common hand tools, and that is super respectable.
Ps., if it is an automatic, leaving it in park is fine 👌
Yeah. I’ve had people ask why I don’t invent in a lift and some things. I may at some point, but I also like to be relatable to the majority of people who don’t have them. I also have impacts I enjoy using to speed up processes, but with aluminum it’s also better to do it by hand to make sure you’re not stripping/cross threading. It is hard with the auto since you’d have to lock the flywheel. Even in park the crank will just spin.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I never thought about it that. Makes sense. I use impacts on aluminum all the time but you make a good point.
& yeah, i always used the belt trick when dealing with autos. A leather belt or ratchet strap & sinch it down to the nearest rigid structural point & it is usually good enough to keep it from spinning.
I am from Saudi Arabia. I own a 2010 Grand Marquis. After watching your video, I did the timing system maintenance myself. Thank you for this valuable information. 👍
I sort of remembered doing this on my Town Car and my F250 in 2014.
I now have an older F150 that needs to be worked on.
I thoroughly enjoyed your video with your detailed explanations as well as tools you had/used to make the project easier.
You're well spoken, easy to understand, and no annoying music to get in the way.
This was, by far, the best video for anyone to watch who plans to undertake this repair. It was very educational.
Thanks for the kind words. Thats my goal and I’m glad it’s being useful for others.
I'm in the process of doing this job on my 02 Explorer. First major job I've done to it in the 185k miles I've had it. A good tip of advice for anyone doing this job on this engine, don't worry about breaking plastic clips and stuff, as it is impossible to disassemble the thing without breaking at least half of them. Only things you really have to worry about is the plastic intake manifold and plastic valve covers.
I love Danny Johnson’s videos man so informative any back yard mechanics can do it I fully rebuilt my 01 mustang gt form engine to gas tank because of this guys tutorials thank you so much your videos are greatly appreciated!
I've been putting off doing this job, but now that this perfectly detailed and clear video is here, I'm ordering parts and will do it as soon as they arrive. Thanks man.
And you can sue youtube if he explained it wrong so no risk for u
Did it work? I posted here 2mths ago and still haven't started the tensioner removal. Feel like I'm going to miss something
Awesome video, thank you! I do everything myself on my vehicles, but this one had me on the fence. Not as hard as I imagined it to be!
Schwinn needs to make those chains like they used to make them in the 50s and 60s. Love those guides made out of cheap plastic. I used to think timing belts were junk, but look at all of the vehicles now with chains that need to be replaced and all of the labor it takes. Those chains look like they belong on a Schwinn BIKE !
Another great video, thanks!! I'll be retiring in twenty months, at which time, I plan on starting to rehab my 2001 Bullitt that I bought new in Sept. 2001. I'm now watching these types of vids to see what I'll be getting myself into. I've got a little over 135,000 miles on her, so this is one of the first jobs I want to do along with a new oil pump and water pump at the same time for peace of mind and continuous reliability. Keep the SN95 vids coming!!
Congrats on upcoming retirement, and that’s super awesome you are a Bullitt original owner. You may have seen my brother’s supercharged Bullitt on the channel
Here is the playlist for all the repair videos too if it helps you find them better Mustang Maintenance and repair
ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7hBrphoRniyYjb707PpPTu.html
I have a 05 Ford crown Victoria. 4.6. I think i have a timing chain issue so im gonna have to go in there and take a look. Watching this video really helps. Thanks
Found your channel about a week ago and I've watched just about every video on the 2v. Picked up another subscriber. Thanks for the great video on how to do this job without going insane. Will attempt this job soon.
Very informative. My 4.6 has a rough idle and I think I’ve narrowed it down to sloppy timing chains.
You are the MAN for sharing this! You made this job so much easier Bro, THANK YOU! Great video!
I sure wish I had a guide when I did it, so I’m happy to help out. Great job taking it on yourself 👍🏼
Wow, this is really detailed. I have a timing cover leak, but I think I'll go ahead and attempt to replace the timing components as well. Thank you for posting.
I don't even own a 4.6 but it was a great saturday evening watch, now I will look for cheap gts on marketplace needing this job done. haha
I appreciate your help. Wouldn’t have gone it done without you, thank you.
This is an amazingly detailed and helpful walk-through video, thank you! Seems like this job is a bit too complex for me, but at least I knew before I started 😅
Perfect video for a DIYers! Definitely this process is not for me. 😂. I enjoyed the details provided, please do this in each of your videos.🎉
I'm scared how much this'll cost at the shop😂
I have a full playlist of videos I’ve done like this. Maybe you’ll like the fuel pump, brakes, suspension stuff: Mustang Maintenance and repair
ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7hBrphoRniyYjb707PpPTu.html
This is a GREAT Video!!! Nice at breaking it all down step by step, easily understood.
Great video, thanks. I suggest changing the oil pump and the timing cover lip seal while in there
A lot of work. Keeping from messing up the timing is the nerve racking part but so is getting all the stuff reassembled. Your video makes it look fairly easy and straightforward but obviously time consuming. I don't know if I'm going to attempt to do this or hire someone. I think I have a timing chain issue because my scan tool is showing the timing wandering a bit at idle. If it is a timing belt issue then I'm disappointed since I only have 75,000 miles on my 02 GT. I just replaced the alternator and fuel pump so I guess I'm going to start having other issues.
What a great video! Kudos to you. Thank you very much. I looked at a few other videos before yours they didn't compare. Thank you again..
Hey man I did this job today on my 2011 Crown Victoria P7B but ran into an issue. I've asked about 100 people online and everyone is telling me something different, so I thought I'd ask the expert directly. I replaced the chains, guides and tensioners with Melling parts. The driver's side chain lined up perfectly dot-to-dot. The passenger side is off 1 link. I know you mentioned you had to do take off the holding tool & adjust the cam, but many people are urging me not to do it - and say if it's not lining up then something is wrong. The other issue is I don't have a friend or anyone who can help, so I'd have to do it myself. I know you had your bro to assist. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you sir
With new tight chains it’s necessary as I did to adjust it. That’s my opinion. I would try loosening the cam holding tool just enough that you can gently turn the cam with the wrench to have it move to where it needs. Be very careful not to bend the cam tube or have it go loose and spring back. Otherwise find someone. Even the missionaries from the church of Jesus Christ of ladder day saints can come help hold it.
Once done, rotate it and make sure no valves touch. It’s normal to have some slack build and release so don’t get concerned when you see the slack do that as you turn the crank. If it’s a problem, turn the crank backwards if the bolt won’t loosen to get it back where it belongs. Dot your dot is how it should work in my opinion
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage giggled @ ladder day lol. this is exactly the response I needed - you sir are a legend. thank you
did you do it?@@christianlawrence881
Great video - thanks! Helped me remove and replace the timing cover on my 03 Marauder. I subscribed!
It's funny how they had bolt holes on the older harmonic balancer but deleted them for at least my 2010 5.4L 3V, so I had to make a harmonic balancer holder with a cheater bar using a pinion flange tool and a few bolts to hold the spokes of the balancer steady while I torqued the bolt. I had to use 2 four foot bars to loosen the bolt. There's no way bump starting the engine would have loosened it, but I had thoughts to try that initially. I just knew this one would be stuck pretty well.
That was some fine work. Thanks for the video.
My 08 Lincoln town car At cold start up I have a rattle for a few seconds car has only 53K
How long can I postpone the tensioner replacement
Thanks!!
It should be okay for awhile but should be addressed at some point. You don’t want the chain to skip a link. Try holding the gas pedal down while turning the key to start. It will allow the car to crank but not start. After doing that, start it normally and see if it helps. It may help prime the system with oil to get oil pressure into the tensioners.
Excellent, Excellent video!!!!! Best I've seen! Will have to do my 05 grand marquis. Thank you!!!!!
Great job thank u I have a 04 3.9L V6 just here learning
The v6 will be a but different as a pushrod engine. It will have one chain from the camshaft to the crankshaft
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage awesome following the order you disassembled really put the motor in perspective appreciate it 😀
This also applies to the ford f150 timing chain? You convinced me to do it since I have it sitting not knowing how to do it and the tools I need.
If you do a timing on the 5.4 3 vale always use the CAST IRON tensoners, The old cast iron will work better than the plastic.
you are an amazing teacher. i have a 05 p71 and i think mt timing chain is rattling in there
For the 3V it may be the cam phasers on the end of the cams
so will the timing chain kit solve this?@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
@@al-mubdizahir8704 not unless the kit comes with new cam phasers. It’s a good time to upgrade the tensioners and chain, but some people have worked on a technique to lock the chain and change out the phasers without removing the timing chain and all the parts involved. You’ll have to find some videos on the wedge tool they use
my old Mercury Gm just started making the chain noise, I'll be parking it till spring doing the chain kit
It appears the passenger side camshaft sprocket moved the valve spring tension even with the cam holders. Any ideas?
Mine was somewhat similar, and I’m not sure if it was just new chains/tensioners that made it slightly off, but you’ll see in the video I use the 18mm box wrench on the passenger side. While holding the wrench, I loosen the cam holding tool just enough to have some play. I moved the wrench back and forth until the timing dots are lined up on the crank and cam gear
Odds are failure happened because of a weak oil pump. Change it while you are this deep. Great video.(my next adventure in my 01 Vicky)
Odds are the failure happened because plastic breaks and longer chains means more stretch
Can you still change the oil pump without dropping the oil pan fully. Just replacing the pump and not the pick up tube. And can you recompress the tensioners and reuse them if they are brand new and your just going back in to replace the oil pump?
Yes, the tensioners can be compressed and a pin put in to hold them. The oil pump should be accessible with the pan in place or slightly dropped. The only time I removed it was with the pan off, but here it is for reference
ua-cam.com/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/v-deo.htmlsi=G6LqQlr8JgWcciFv
If you do end up having to slightly drop the pan, the support bar would be useful so you don’t have to remove the engine ua-cam.com/video/EFtYGxFk8tc/v-deo.htmlsi=qAwOJFh2ZQE8p1EK
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage i appreciate it. You're always a great help.
So I’m doing this job and go to take the power steering pump off and figured out someone has done something like this before because the bolt that was behind the line is completely missing. Now I’m gonna have to find a replacement bolt and take the line off just to put a bolt in
Thanks for this video... really helped me!
hey man great video - I'm about to do this job for the first time on my 2011 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I watched a ton of videos and many say once you lock the cams with the cam locking tool to not rotate them again with the chain off, or it could mess up the timing. but then most videos end up rotating them slightly with the tool off, to line up the chain properly? little confused by this
You can carefully loosen the holding tool and slightly move the cam back or forward with the 18mm wrench on the end of the cam gear like it shows in this video to line up the dot, but only a link or two total movement. The reason why is because some pistons are at or near top dead center and you don’t want them to contact. You’ll want a strong grip pm the wrench with a second person to help line it up
You can carefully loosen the holding tool and slightly move the cam back or forward with the 18mm wrench on the end of the cam gear like it shows in this video to line up the dot, but only a link or two total movement. The reason why is because some pistons are at or near top dead center and you don’t want them to contact. You’ll want a strong grip pm the wrench with a second person to help line it up. Just don’t let the holding tool loose and have the cam spring back to its neutral position and strike a valve (some pistons will be at top dead center
Great vid! Lots of good commentary and tips. Well done! 😀 I'm doing a 2010 4.6L 3V, so slightly different, but this is good info.
Hey Danny ,great video thanks - I have a 4.6 in my 2003 f150 - same motor and procedure ??
Thanks man
Yes, you will have minor differences in some of the parts, but the process will be the same.
Great -wish you lived close to me to watch over my shoulder - lol
Thinking about doing this to her -236000 miles
Great video! Doing some guide replacements on a 4.6 4v. Do you happen to know if there is a cam holding tool for a dohc 4.6l? Thanks !
There is, but like the ones I used it does not specifically say which mustang, so you'll want to confirm they actually fit amzn.to/3HhIUYC
Back in my MoCanIt days all we had was a book and photos, we called these Talkie's
What did you torque the guide bolts to? Because I sheared off 2 of them and luckily extracted them out.
2002 Explorer. A slight screeching sound under accel. 2days later misfire code. B4 shutting off it began to seemingly "rock" forward / backwards under accel. Suspect timing. Current: timing & valve covers off. Found partially broken guides. Left chain loose. Cam sprockets appear in proper position along w/ gear mark. No dots on chains. Question: at this point how can I tell if I'm out of timing? I have the crank and cam holding tools. I'm at TDC. Main Question: can I place cam tool and proceed with timing component replacement without worrying about getting out of timing? this is the best video I've seen thus far
I have a question i put my timing marks just like this but when i put the front timing cover and harmonic balancer the tdc was not lined up with the notch on the balancer and cover?
You made it look so easy
Hopefully its easier than no video
How can i put my car in TDC if i already took the tensioners and guides off and the camshafts are being held by a special holding tool so they wont spin and the pistons hit the valves on my 2002 mercury grand marquis 4.6 2v v8? Before i took everything apart i had put it to TDC and now the marked links wont wont align right on the marked spots on the sprockets and i made sure i spun the crank till it was a TDC any help please!?
If the cams are indeed held in place where they should be, line the chains up to the top cam gear dots, then line the chains other master link up to the dot on the cam gear. You can move the crank slightly back and forth to line it up to the master link, and if necessary as I did in the video, you may need to slightly loosen the cam holding tools for them to line up to the perfect spot.
The crank dot should be 6 o’clock and that leaves the crank key way line at about 11 o’clock
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do the cams move inward or outward ? if only you had a video because im having trouble i shouldve been done days ago
I did the samething
Why do you need a special tool to clamp onto the cam? It looks like you could use vice grips on the chain sprocket or ends of the cam or even wrap the cam with something soft like a belt or bike inner tube. I dont understand what will happen if the cam moves as well. I mean I know it affects the timing but is that something hard to get back to normal? I'd like to see how exactly that works.
There is also something you can use like vice grips, but the can holding tools are very useful especially as you’ll see in the video where I can slightly loosen it enough to turn the cam but not remove the clamp entirely
I got a 2002 Towncar...I'm getting the Red Light Oil Lamp turn ON and engine struggles only during DRIVE at a Red Light. Its fine during Park/Neutral/Reverse. Accelerates Superb
If the car is struggling at stop lights it may be losing rpm and this losing oil pressure so it thinks there is a problem.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage how would it lose RPMs?
@@ge0ne063might be idle air control valve
Will this timing chain work on my 1999 4.6l lincoln towncar
Yes, it should be the same
01 Vicky
Did timing and oil pump.
Ford Performance pump
Cloyes timing kit
I heard that typical chain noise and drove it 3 days taking it easy on it. Parked it and then proceeded to do the work.
Lined everything up and can get about 300* of total rotation. No matter how I work around it. Nothing broke in the old parts to cause valve to slap the piston. It actually ran good, just that typical noise. I've taken the new pump off thinking it may be defective and tried rotating again, same result. It always hits at the same location also. I'm stumped. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm also really close on sending her to a shop to get it figured out.
How much more difficult would it be to drop the oil pan and replace the gasket? About to order all the parts for my 04 town car to do this.
It’s pretty difficult because the oil pickup tube goes down. You may need to lower the k member
ua-cam.com/video/lmwfvgziAxs/v-deo.htmlsi=2CwvgKIMNBQI4Hcr
Question for a beginner. Does this apply to the 2001 4.6l 2v expedition? Sorry if it's a stupid question
Yes. It should be nearly identical with minor differences. If you follow the same procedures you shouldn’t have a problem
Do you need a pulley lock to hold the pulley when you take out the 18mm bolt for the harmonic balancer?
For an automatic transmission car you may need one. Or an impact wrench could help so you don’t
How long do these typically last? I have some sort of rattle at 2krpm on my 4v. Only apparent in higher gears. Goes away before or after that rpm. Wondering if this might be the issue.
They should last 200k miles or more, but the tensioner arm as you saw in the video was broken through by the tensioner
Great video. I’m in process of finishing a head gasket replacement on a 2010 4.6 2v . I replace all of the timing components except for the gears. I lined the crank and timing gears up with the links on the chains and installed the new guides and tensioners. After roasting the engine around 10 complete rotations the dots and links do not line up. Occasionally the links and dot will all line up about 2 links off so it appears the cams and crank are in sink. Do you know about how many revaluations the motor has to turn for everything to line up or did I do something wrong? Thanks
Yeah, it will not line up perfectly for something like 32 full rotations.
Awesome video, really appreciate it. Do you have a part no. on the cam cover gaskets? Having trouble finding the right set for my 02 mustang.
FEL-PRO VS 50564 R
Valve Cover Gasket Set
Im getting this done in my 2000 f150 , are there any more parts you suggest changing , apart from the timing kit ?
While it’s off. The oil pump is easily accessible. You’ll see it removed in this video ua-cam.com/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/v-deo.htmlsi=QJDE_JzkWSQbtL-o
Can you please explain why you have to loosen all oil pan bolts? It seems like you can just take out the bolts connecting the oil pan and the timing cover and then remove the timing cover.
You can avoid the oil pan bolts, just be careful with the gasket from the oil pan to the timing cover as you pry it away and use some RTV on the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan
Every time the bell rings, another mustang gets its wings. 😁
😅😅
That is an excellent video! Thank you!
How did you remove the drivers side head cover? Mine is blocked by the master cylinder in the back. Any advice would be helpful
To get it over the cam caps it’s easiest to lift it straight up instead of tilting the front up and get it over the the cams that way
Why do we need to hold the cams in place with the tool? I thought it wouldn't matter as long as all the chain links match the timing marks
The proper way is to hold the cams in place because as they sit they are compressing some valve springs, and once released those valves will contact the pistons as the engine is out of time (at top dead center there really only should be one on the driver side that is up enough to hurt anything). It shouldn’t really hurt them (some people hold the cams with the wrench and then gently let them softly come to rest and contact pistons.
Its the proper way to do it with the cam holding tools, so that’s what I try to show on the channel. If you end up doing other unexpected repairs once you are in there it’s always good to follow those practices (use the cam holding tool, set the engine to top dead center, etc.). At this point there is a lot that can go wrong if someone decides to turn the crank. You shouldn’t bend a valve by hand, but anyway, that’s the idea.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage (for clarification) the engine is out of time, a piston is at the very top. And if we move the cams a valve could contact the piston.
I just put that same question ,I just did
I moved the crank a bit to line up the up the passenger
It should be fine to move either to like up the dots to the master links, as long as both sides are correct when it’s all done.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage okay thank you and yea I got all the marks lined up.
Hey Danny. I’m doing the chains , tensioners and guides on my 2002 GT and I had two questions. I know the PS
Pump has to be lowered to get the front cover off but can you get it off without dropping the AC compressor? And I have the Cloyes kit with steel tensioners but they didn’t provide gaskets. Are there gaskets that are supposed to be used for the tensioners to the engine block or just metal to metal ?
It’s best to drop the ac compressor as well as the power steering, just as the video shows. It also helps to drop the ac to get the crank position sensor out. I don’t believe there are any gaskets for the tensioners
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks! Appreciate your detailed videos and the time you put in to help everyone
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I got it all apart and cam tools locked in place. I got sooo lucky I decided to tear it down at the first noise I noticed. Just one piece broke off the right hand bank chain guide at the top of the guide where the bolt goes through, it fell to the bottom of the cover and wedged between the oil pan but didn’t go in. It was the only piece that broke off, so all broken parts accounted for 👍
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage hey great video ,I’m almost done with my timing chain problem thanks to you. But I have one question while I’m in the mist of doing it.. when you line that lil notch on the crank pulley to the top stop like you said, when I took off the pulley ,and I watched it as it came out it stayed there but the silver notch when you take off the pulley lines with the 10 degrees
Is it suppose to that way Or my eyes playing tricks on me
Had a question so today I dropped my oil pan in my 4.6 4v and found metal shavings, I took a magnet to them and they didn’t stick, removed my rod bearings and they were fine, any thoughts ?
They must be aluminum shavings. It could ve from a tensioner arm or some other component that’s getting worn
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I hope it is
do the cast oil tensioners not have a gasket like the oem plastic ones. The new felpro gasket for oem plastic oil tensioners seem a lil odd shaped and thin. Any thoughts?
I don’t believe I had one provided. It has been running great since
You made it look easy but I wish you had explained why you put the cam gear Mark's in place and marked the chain with the shiny links off the mark but put a new chain on using the chain shiny link not your mark I do know that chain is got to be in time, while you were there was there a reason you didn't replace the oil pump and give the oil strainer some attion, Got to do my 07 3 valve . Thank you for this great video.
I made the marks when taking it off just for reference. I always make more marks than I need in case there is a question. The chains should lay out with those marks at exactly opposite ends, which it did. When adding the new chains I used the master links as the marks as they should be. It would have been a good time to do an oil pump but I didn’t. I do have oil pump removal in another video for the 4V but the same process if you want to see it ua-cam.com/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/v-deo.htmlsi=w1to5XvEhOIeVsKd
You do good work. I like clean.
Does anyone know if there is a gasket that is supposed to go behind tensioners? Looks like a mating surface but no gaskets came with it. i already put the whole car together but in fear of putting timing cover back on and trying the start because i want to know if i am missing gaskets.
I need to do this to my 04 Mustang, GT, automatic dark shadow gray with 192,000 miles and she still running good
You will want to buy the crankshaft holding tool and remove the starter to put it in place since the automatic will simply spin even in park when you try to remove the crankshaft bolt
I have a 2010 4.6 from a P7B, but my harmonic balancer doesn't have a notch in it to mark TDC. What is another way I can tell?
You can carefully put a long wooden dowel or straw into the spark plug hole for cylinder number one and watch as you rotate the crank. Once the straw reaches its max elevation and starts to go back down, it’s at TDC. You’ll see it in this video ua-cam.com/video/lck6BGgU2_M/v-deo.htmlsi=GOFHAR2g3cvU-CWu
What about the the gasket in the middle of the timing cover
Gonna try this on my 02 Crown Vic PI
question… with the harmonic balencer bolt 32:43 how did you get the bolt off? i had it all off then put the bolt back in so i could turn the engine just put it in without the harmonic balancer. so how do i take this bolt out?
Put the car back in gear if it’s a manual transmission. If it’s an auto you’ll need to use an impact wrench or take the starter out and use a flywheel holding tool
They are sold out on Amazon for the Ford Racing M-6004-462V Camshaft Drive Kit for 4.6L 2V Engine any other Links where I may be able to find this part. ?
I would look at this one amzn.to/3KZQqKP
what if i have an ac delete pulley installed, can i leave that there or do the bolts need to come out?
You’ll have to see if any bolts go into the timing cover and if it can be removed around the pulley.
So at 27:18 did you also loosen the cam holder on the driver side? I got a little confused there
Only as needed. With new chains you may need to as the old ones have stretched. When you install the new chains that will be more tight it may require you to slightly loosen driver side to get the chains where they need to be dot to dot
Another question I put my car in 4th gear and the harmonic balancer keeps moving when I try to break the bolt loose how do I work with this
You can put the belt back on until it brakes the bolt loose. If that doesn’t work you can use a flywheel crank holding tool that I can link, but it requires removing the starter which I also have a video on ua-cam.com/video/zD2qEaAZNJQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Z_q4qOviV4DdjvDR
Starter removal if you buy the tool ua-cam.com/video/tqw_qiPaNsM/v-deo.htmlsi=nzx3KStjclP5RHI3
Before all that, try to borrow an impact wrench from someone www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Cordless-Battery-Charger-DCF900P1/dp/B0B9T821KC?crid=36N9P8QX1Y4QS&keywords=dewalt+899&qid=1704007357&s=industrial&sprefix=dewalt+899,industrial,188&sr=1-5-catcorr&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=ba73119b5e573a6360cfe3f86bf2058b&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
How do you crank an automatic to get the fuel flowing without starting the car?
The same way, it should crank and not start if the accelerator pedal is pushed to the floor while cranking when turning the key. That’s the factory way to clear a flooded engine
Question. I saw that you didn’t line the master links up instead you got everything else in place(TDC) and made your own mark?? Is that what you did?? Is that okay to do? Because I honestly don’t see how the heck everyone gets those master links to line up all the way around 🤷🏾♂️!!!! I’ll be doing this job on one of my Crown Victorias within the next two weeks.. Thanks in advance for any help and also thanks for this detailed video
The master links don’t line up every rotation of the crankshaft, so it’s much faster to make new master link marks on the chain (or use the new chain). As long as you have the timing marks correct with the dot on the cam and the crankshaft and the master links being on exact opposites as you lay the chain out, it will ensure the timing is correct. TDC is important for this with piston 1 on the passenger side being up, and lock the cams with the holding tool you see in the video as well. If you don’t lock the cams the valve spring pressure will release and rotate them. That’s where you would need that 18mm to get it lined back up correctly
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragehey man do you know if this cam holding tool will fit my 97 crown Vic, “w” VIN?? 4.6 2v
@@MrDoItAll91 I’m pretty sure it would, but I can’t say for sure. Just see if there is a free returns policy
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah I’m gonna order from Amazon thru your link, it says free returns I was just looking for a second opinion. If all fails I’ll try vice grips maybe 🤔
Thank You Again Sir 🫡
Im about to do this on my 96 cobra this weekend, would the process be similar on the cobra? I've been watching this video non stop just to make sure I have it all in my head, just want to make sure this video can be used for reference while im doing it. Thanks again for the video, very helpful regardless.
Yeah, exact same process for the primary chains, but your secondary would be different. I have a video showing DOHC removal (but not install) that I’ll link below. The cam holding tools are different for DOHC
The primary chains can come off just fine before the secondary ua-cam.com/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you so much for the videos! After cracking everything open I found that the secondary tensioner failed on bank 1. The whole reason I decided to take on this job was for one, the ticking would bother the hell out of me at idle, and two, the engine had a lot of trouble producing power after 5k rpm. Really hope this fixes all of that! Im about 70% done, just had to stop because I had to wait for the cam holders (dont ever use vise grips to stop cams from moving, stupid shortcut I though would work). All thats left is trying to remember where all the nuts and bolts go as I wasn't as organized as I should have been. Valve covers are also a big pain to deal with haha. Thanks again and keep up with the great content!
So I am assuming that if you’re also replacing the sprockets and setting the crank to TDC, you wouldn’t have to make your own marks? Just line up the marks on the new sprockets and chains.
Correct. I only made marks to verify when I laid the chains out that they were actually at the ends of each chain. It’s always good to mark it since removing tensioners and such (should the holding tool skip) you’d know which link belonged on the dot
Danny I'm lost please help. I'm put a oil pump in my 2004 gr mustang 4 .6. while putting the timing chains back I had to loosen the cam hold down tool to turn the cam so it would go back to the notch on the cam but my wrench slip off so the cam moved is my car motor no good now I don't no what to do it get it back
Thank you Danny for your help please
Do I have to take the head off now. I didn't loose the one one on the right only the the left hold down tool but my wrench slip off so did the chain ty please
It should still be fine. It also happened to me. Just take the 18mm wrench and put it on the end of the cam bolt as shown in the video where we are holding it in place. Turn the wrench in the direction to put the dot on the cam gear back to where it should be okay
How many of the longer guide bolts did you have to buy
Just one in my experience.
Question that does part number for the bolts can you also get those bolts on Amazon? Or only at ford? I’m Getting a ford bolt and looks exactly like that one but thought I’d ask to be sure.
Others may work just as well, but the part number works for sure.
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragealso I pulled my cam cover off and my chain is tight. Had no reason to do the job but thought I’d check so should I still replace the chain car has 170k ford recommends some mileage like 160k but it’s still tight as it seems. Should I go through the trouble or wait until it actually shows signs of deterioration?
@@joshuahiggins5313 i wouldn’t worry much about the chains. I would be concerned with the timing tensioners. If you hear a rattle/knocking/slapping on startup that’s when I’d change them (or like mine if you hear the guide has broken through the tensioner arm and is rubbing the chain.
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragethanks
hey im rebuilding my 2v and im doing the timing chains aswell but leaving the old cam sprockets, do i still set the chains the same way you did black link to dot or is there extra steps to make sure they’re in time?
Set it dot to dot like in the video. I only did new chains tensioners and guides
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you i was worried the new crank may make things different but i guess im just overthinking it lol
The slight rattle I'm hearing under my hood tells me I need to at least replace a tensioner. As long as I'm doing that I might as well replace everything. Do you have any experience with Trick Flow's timing kit?
I haven’t used their kit before so I can’t say. This one has been good so far for cloyes
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you. I have a stethoscope coming Monday to see if the rattle is coming from under the timing cover. I'm a woodworker with little experience with working on cars. I've got a 2000 Marquis Grande. So far I've installed a TF upper plenum and CHE rear control arms on my Marq, then helped the mechanic friend who's watching over me to make sure I don't f up install a new intake manifold, new rear control arms and brakes on all four corners of his 2000 Crown Vic
So far, so good.
I install new rimming chains but after installing tensioners could not rotate the engine manually,what I'm missing
Are cam holding tools in place keeping the cams from turning?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the timing chains are
new the gears are the old ones new chain guides,new tensioners ,next I'm going to remove heads to see if any valves are bend or something inside cylinders
Would you mind giving me a time estimation for this job? I have a 04 Ford Explorer and I'm hoping that the valves aren't bent but it has broken the cover from the timing chain slapping it. Is there any advice I can get on that situation?
If the engine is still running and not making other horrible noises (other than the chain slapping around) its possible the chain has not skipped a tooth and no valves were bent. It's hard to say. This job will take you about 8 hours to complete, but the time estimate is difficult because I don't know if you have all the tools, parts, or other things that might hold you up.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I plan on saving to get everything so I can do it all at once but I am making a list of everything I need. The motor doesn't run and won't turn over anymore according to the owner. The starter would make a whining sound as if it's trying to turn it over but it can't. That's what worries me that it could have bent valves. The owner was driving it down the road and it started slowing down and she would press the gas and it would slow down more. She tried to crank it until the battery went dead and then called the tow truck, he tried a jump pack and it wouldn't turn over.
@@tydoyle7752 Good luck. I hope its not ruined. Make sure to get the cam holding tools in the video description. Very helpful to keep them from moving.
Can you power wash timing cover and valve cover ?
Off of the car, yes. Degrease and make sure it’s fully dry before installing so no moisture is in
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks a lot . Keep the good work 💯
Well done. Any thoughts on changing the gears also?
Unless they are damaged, I would leave them (that’s my take and what I did).
Ive taken mine off without removing coil packs i unplugged them what was the reason for that
I took them off for better working room on the cam covers. If you want to work around it that’s fine
I've had to many bolts snap unexpectedly working on my old truck so I try to not take anything off lol
What would be the recommend mileage to have this done I own a 2011 Ford crown Vic with 138k on it and it's starting to tick on startup
That’s a good milage to do this on, and especially if it’s making noise-the sooner the better. It may be as simple as low tension before the oil is pressurizing the system
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you 👍
I got the same chain guide and it has a little play when bolted down is that normal
It will have some play until oil pressure is going. The passenger side will have slack and the driver side will be tight because one is upside down so they give tension opposite until oil pressure is flowing
I have a '99 Expedition w/ a 5.4 engine. Do you know if I can leave out the chain guide for the right side of the engine? It sits above the chain. I have the rail that goes on the tensioner, of course.
It will need the tensioner and the tensioner arm guide when it is operating and there is oil pressure in the engine or it will have too much slack without it. So it will need all the components that came with
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I know it'll need the tensioner and the tensioner control arm. I was referring to the guide that has no tensioner on it. The bolt hole on the cylinder head for the the guide stripped, and I was wondering if I could just leave that guide off. Thanks for your reply.
Hey Danny awesome video great job...My 04 GT snapped the guides at 3500 rpms... Still starts and idles really ruff. You think theres any valve damaged or is just because it's out of time??? Thanks in advance
Once you remove the timing cover you’ll have to see if the timing dots are still lined up. If they are off by quite a bit it’s possible that the valves has been bent, but you would most likely hear that.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for the advice I will check that
Probably a good time to put on a high performance oil pump