Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Knocking Noise Fix
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Ford Phaser Option-
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In this video I detail Camshaft Phaser repair on the 5.4l 3v engines but the procedure is the same for the 4.6l 3v engine.
Phaser Bolt:
Torque to 30 ft lbs then an additional 90 degrees.
The crankshaft is always being turned in a clockwise direction until the last positioning of the crankshaft in which we spin it counter clockwise 180 degrees.
Proper positioning of cam lobes for roller follower removal.
RH Bank Cylinder 1-
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LH Bank Cylinder 5-
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Valve Cover Torque 90in lbs Sequence-
Old LH Valve Cover-
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Old RH Valve Cover-
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New LH Valve Cover-
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New RH Valve Cover-
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Popping out or reinserting the CAM Followers is a real pain for cylinder 8.
The gadget spring compression tool and trying to pry them back in is nearly impossible.
Struggled with it for several hours.
Then I asked my son for an idea.
Genius - He recommended loosening the CAM Caps a little.
Worked great!!!
Tightened the CAM Caps back down.
And this only took a few minutes.
Yeah I just went through this on my 3v Stang. That tool is virtually useless on cylinder 8 partially because of the brake booster and master cylinder being in the way. I ended up doing the exact same thing. Worked great and spun the engine over afterwards to double check everything before buttoning the cover back on.
Everyone comments on how thorough these videos are as the thing they appreciate most, and that is very true... BUT what has helped me the most is the fact that these videos ACTUALLY show you or let you hear the issue. This video saved me hours of headache, by actually having the noise the engine makes when having this issue. It's the exact noise mine is making and it is the issue I've been having. So I really appreciate the addition of such steps that others miss. As well as how knowledgeable you are.
I thank God for him tbh. Very much I do. God bless you Mr. Ford Tech. Lol. Don't know ur name brother.
Thank you for explaining this whole process in a manor that is useful. It's always a pleasure to meet someone in our trade that can quickly walk through a repair like this. Not just quick, but thorough too! Relevant information for a mechanics first time replacing cam adjusters on this engine. FYI to any who read what I said here. I would not recommend a first time mechanic try to perform this task. Thanks again my friend.
Ive been trying to find a video that shows where that stupid timing mark is all day smh. A decade ago this gem just saved me from blowing my car up lmao
Almost 8 years later and your knowledge and expertise is still educating and helping thousands of DIYers brave enough to take the plunge. My issue other than over 300,000 miles and ready for a full timing job is a bad lash adjuster on Bank 2. Thank you Brian and please recharge as needed to keep us 3valvers up and running..
Great! Thanks, 7.8 years & You are still going strong 💪
I've seen plenty of auto service related video's. Nobody is as through, detailed and patient as you. You really know your stuff. Keep up the great work!!!
+AutoManiac123 Hey thanks I try.
He is the man the world needs more craftsmen like him he is awesome
Brian, i had 2 different noises. First was bad tensioner i changed that..then i could here the other clicking..teuck kinda sounded like a diesel and wanted to stall when i went to press gas..im about to change the phasers and vcts..question is my oil pressure started dropping out as well..could that be caused by phasers and vcts..also ive already replaced oil pressure switch. Thx in advance buddy
My f150 is poping when giving gas and no low power I got the timing chain done and new vat solenoid. Could you give me a idea what it would be
Maybe you should take a look at my 2004 heritage f150, I got a code for low fuel trims, tried a smoke test checked the gasket and looked brand fricken new, I also have a oil leak at the oil pan gasket, my reverse gear has a delay, and I have a ticking at the drive thru, also my suspension is squeaky (least of my concerns atm) what part of the US do you live? Was planning a full overhaul as I just bought the truck for 💸 want to restore before I start considering adding a m112 supercharger on the v6
This was my first time doing this kind of engine work, and "so far" it has been a success. Please read more to hear about my experience with this.
(my one issue with the directions). Per the video and the Ford instructions, I had the crank at 12:00, and the (6) rollers should be removable - yet #8 exhaust lobe needed to be at base circle. Rotating the crank is OK to do for base circle, yet bring this back to 12:00 with proper lobe positioning when that is complete. TWO full rotations of the crank = ONE full rotation of the cam.
--- my initial comment ---
The lobe on #8 is not technically applying pressure on the roller follower (to my knowledge) but it is in the down/right position when I'm trying to use the spring tool to get it out. Seems to be a problem. I'm having a hell of a time getting that #8 exhaust roller follower out (after I just did #5 intakes which was not much of an issue in comparison).
I have not done the passenger side yet. I had to keep coming back to the video and the service instructions that came with the Ford OEM cam phasers to see what seems to be the issue with where I have the cam in position.
I carefully documented everything so far including setting the crank at 12:00, and the spring compressor tool seems to have issues clearing enough space to bring the #8 follower out.
I'll keep trying and report back on my progress but this specific issue has been frustrating...
Also, I'd advise having a breaker bar to hold onto the crank in place when you loosen the cam phaser bolts. I also removed my front bumper's air dam to better access the crank from below the truck when finding the timing slot / notch. It's not easy.
I reviewed the videos multiple times to make sure I was removing and replacing the roller followers correctly - ie, not dropping a valve - my biggest concern. Sometimes the positioning of the spring compression tool needs to be off to the side, so the follower can be positioned correctly over the valve and lash adjuster. I ALSO used and highly recommend that if you do this job, you have the magnet tool. I used a flexible/spring wound style magnet. It saved a lot of time. Whichever roller follower you need to remove/replace, it is best to rotate the crank so the cam lobe is at base circle (lobe end facing up) if you're having clearance issues. This will be a lot easier than dropping a valve when you can't reach far enough.
Duly noted, I only replaced the (6) roller followers with the new upgraded one with the small hole. I had 6 more I was going to do since I had bought a bunch in case I found any that had wear and tear issues but did not find any that were suspected to be failing. When I was tightening down my cam phasers, I noticed one of my chain's (RH - passenger side) top guide was missing as I looked down in the gap where it should be - plus the chain was verifiably loose. I may have broke that guide with the cheese block during the cam phaser change, but I can't be sure.
I did start the engine with the loose chain to check my work and move the truck forward in the parking spot, but now I have a timing job to work on next. Apparently, before starting working on cam phasers, it's best to pull the valve covers and check to make sure the chains are tight. This was something I'd know to do for future projects...
The more often you pull the valve covers, the better and faster you become at pulling and putting them back on. If you're timid at this kind of work, at least pull the covers and get that practice in before anything else. I did this a few times in the late fall to time myself for when I'd have a full day to do this job in the spring/summer. There are certain parts to remove that will frustrate you, however once you get past those, it will seem like an easier job.
NOTES: Using my phone camera to check positioning of the spring compression tool before tightening down was the best thing for checking things over. It takes longer, but the tool is a bit clumsy, but once positioned well, it works absolutely correctly. Sometimes the foot of the tool would rest on another part and prevent the compression. Your finger on the valve or roller while compressing is super important, not only for the keepers, but so you can tell it is actually compressing.
THIS IS MY LAST POST - I HAVE THE TIMING JOB FINISHED AND IT'S RUNNING GREAT NOW...
I finished my timing job today (my 2010 F-150 runs fine now - logged 16+ miles so far) based on your videos... one thing to also note for those who may have issues putting the steering pump pulley back on. You may need to get a reemer to re-tap the shaft of the pump with 8mm x 1.25 thread. I practically ruined an installer bolt then had to re-tap and use the die on the kit to fix the threads. The issue: way too much rust in there, and it needed the threads to be fixed.
Also, when replacing the oil pump with a Melling M360HV, the pan did not need to be dropped, but you'll need a Craftsman 8mm gear wrench and a thin wire to use as a keeper to prevent losing the bolt if it slips. This is a real pain in the ass, don't get me wrong. I was going to drop the pan a little, and the transmission lines are in the way, so I opted to use the wire approach.
The crank bolt needed to be removed using a helper with a breaker bar I made from a pinion yoke tool to keep the harmonic balancer in place while I torqued it loose. The balancer did not have anything I could attach a tool to prevent it from turning with as much torque the bolt had on it.
Every bit of the way, my truck was fighting me and trying to get junked.
Both of my static guides - the black ones - were shattered, and one of the bolts that goes through the oil pump had broken in the block by about 1/2 inch. Had a steady hand to use a reverse / left handed drill bit to remove the broken piece. The VCT Solenoids were definitely suspect as part of my earlier issues - one screen was broken, too. The Phasers actually looked fine based on the trouble shooting tech info provided with the OEM phaser replacements. The roller followers all looked pretty good, but I replaced 6 of them (with the new design) per the phaser install. I was going to go back and replace 6 others but decided not to.
After it was all done, I was going to replace the water pump and do a coolant flush. That thing was on there so tight and probably fused to the block so I just scrapped the idea and added new coolant.
So, in all, it took me a while to get through all of this. My dad came and helped me two days for the oil pump and doing the chains. I spent some time using gasoline to clean up the baked on oil that was on the timing cover and valve covers. My last day, I just spent buttoning everything back up and running it through the tests. Make sure you have the air flow sensor re-attached and the whole air flow system hooked up when you start up. Everything else was hooked up properly, but sometimes you just miss a connection...
Dude your videos have saved me tons! Much appreciated!! Keep them up! My fx4 purrs.
How many guys are actually capable of making this repair even with this great video??
The 4.6l 2v has been around since the early 90's. It has been a damn good engine. The 3v 4.6 and 5.4 seem to have had their issues.
Stay away from 5.4 3v. Unless you absolutely know it's had frequent oil changes .
You are best to use the Motorcraft oil and filter always on these engines
Was there 3v in the 2003 f150?
Glad you had the video. I thought mine had this problem, but it actually sounds like your end result. I can hear the difference now since the first has a harder knocking sound and the end has a softer sound.
Great job...I believe im having this knock issue with my Ecotec with VVT...i had lash adjusters that were ticking when i replaced those i noticed my cam phasers knocking...Figured id c9me and see how its done on a Ford...pretty much the same...Thanks for your help!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your time and SHOWING what needs to be done and WHY the details are important
Dude - Your videos are spot on!!! And I agree with others....You're a real Ford tech and you actually makes sense. Thorough, concise, and detailed; well done.
As a fleet tech, w/all Fords, I can tell you are legit!
FoxFreak Wow thanks!
I heard a viper type snake hissing while you rotated the crank pulley! Please be careful/mindful of the engine bay surroundings. A friend of mine got tagged by a inland Taipan snake (over in Australia) while doing the same. He was shut down for 3 months recovering. Know your surroundings!
My mother has a 2010 Expedition with 115k miles on it and it still runs quiet! It's the first vehicle she's kept over 40k miles and several years longer then normal too. It's been a great SUV so far, I'll definitely keep a watch on the cam phasers!
Are you always using full synthetic oil? I accidentally switched to synth blend and I've been having issues with my 145,000 miles Lincoln.
We replaced the phasors on a 3v and it still had the problem.Cam timing on left side would go crazy when engine was hot and off idle,so computer tried to compensate by adjusting the right cam.We now suspect it was a clogged oil passage in head or block somewhere.Customer said to fix it but it was just a guess on our part.So we sent him to the dealer to confirm,because that is a big expensive gamble.
Mines been ticking since I bought it, doesn’t bother me. I just recently got a cat back exhaust and don’t even hear it anymore
Yea that was me. It will go limp one day. Its like you only have 2 cylinders when it gets stuck in retard.
I did just phasers and solenoids. Runs better than any truck I have ever owned now.
.
@@amoncopeland6747
Question:
I just got a 2004 F150. I drove it from Arizona to California. Ran great. Now, I have code P0174 "System Too Lean (Bank 2) and I can not find any vacuum leak anywhere...God knows I've tried. I also have P0022 "Intake Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced" (Bank 2)
The question is: Could the CAM POSITIONER be the reason Bank 2 is registering Too Lean since it's over advanced or is it over advanced because it's trying to compensate for too lean?
@@mikeroland9751 bro.. Thats a good question. My initial answer would be no. You would have experienced some other problems. . do you have cold air intake or anything like that?
@@mikeroland9751 the camshaft advance could be more worrisome. I bet your lean is a broken injector loose connection on injector(lectrical) or a dirty map sense? Just my thoughts. Cam just opens and closes valves. (Or doesn't when broke) i would be looking at all air sensors and look into fuel module and stuff.
Any rain there?
seen alot of videos and yours are by far the best ive seen..very detailed and helpful.
I am retired Tech more on GM side and this video is as thorough and patient as you can get.. great job Buddy hope this helps a lot of people keep up the great work..
you don't fix the problem, just hiding the noise, the main problem on this engine its the oil pump, Phasers working with low oil pressure because the pump and them get damage. will happen again pretty soon if you don't replace the pump.
Joe Jackson when you find out please let me know also i have a 06 expedition same noise i got a oil change i thought it was a spark plug or coil. Btm line i don't wanna have to hear the words New engine because of a crane shaft what else should i do how much will a job like this run me
Bsoundpro Sound Reinforcement basically you saying buy a new truck or can i get around the engine problem by dealing with the pump doing both means new car??
Thank you for posting this video. Truly is a step by step. Alot of guys just say do this and do that. But won't take their time to show the novice. Again thanks.
had a 98 f150, at 250 k miles it started making that knocking noise...chased that noise for over a year, at least now i have closer. sold the truck at 360k still making the noise. best damn truck i have ever owned. it had the 4.6
brian swanner 98 had the 2v heads and didn't have phasers. More than likely you had an exhaust manifold that was rusty and cracked. That can make kind of a ticking noise.
This guy has saved me so much money over the years.
what happened to the ol' 300 inline 6. this 5.4 is way to complicated..... it was still ticking and knocking after u were done. I have a 2004 5.4 and that motor sounds like it's falling apart. also a 96 z71 that u can't hear run and it gets better mpg..... not thrilled with my f150
ben shepherd At 230k and a hard life, my 4.9 i6 still purrs like a kitten.
Why do you have to pull those roller followers no other video u've seen has done this
Emissions happened to the inline 300 6!
@@Miamiboi305 Its due to having the cam in the neutral position. if you dont do this, the cam will want to spin due to the spring tension on the cam lobe. by relieving hte pressure on these lobes, the cam no longer wants to spring forward or reverse causing in accurate time marks.
I love the 300 6 but it’s only upside is it lasts, and oh boy does it last you could drive those fucking gutless turds 24/7 for a decade I bet
That was a great demonstration on how to do perfect job.
Great video keep them coming.
U are the Man
Great, great, great video. Very detailed and easy to understand. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this for the benefit of all of us! I've completed the cam phaser block, chains and guides with no problem after watching your videos. At just about 1000 mile after complete phaser job, when engine is cold, I get a puff (sometimes big puff) of blue smoke out of the exhaust which I didn't have before. Smoke clears up within a couple of seconds. Engine is stock 5.4 3V except for the phaser block and Livernois ECM reflash. Engine has 85K mile in 2004 F150. No oil useage, just the puff. Any ideas FordTechMakuloco? Thanks again.
+Bryan Paris if you just changed the phasers I would say it has something to do with the kit you installed otherwise if you removed the roller followers I would check the valve stem seals for tears.
im getting the same puff of blue smoke on my 07 mustang with 50K miles on it,,it goes away after it starts..i change my oil every 3000 miles,,,my guess is also the valve stem seals,,,i thought it might be the pcv valve but their isnt one,,,just a tube,,,i`ll be adding a catch can seperator on both sides also,,,but it looks like from what i have seen on videos is the valve seals are bad i guess....total bummer
Hello my favorite tech ever i know u been changing lots of engine on 2009 ford f150 5.4L can i get a good working used engine from you please i live in haiti 🇭🇹 its really hard for me to get parts for my 2009 ford f150 i watch your video lots and my name is
Paul henry please reply back to me
You are the man. To bad you don’t live near me because you would be my mechanic for life.
Great video, am I crazy as a learning at home mechanic to try this job?
Your video makes it seems pretty straight forward...
This noise has been pissing me off for so long in my F150, thanks for finally showing what is causing it. I've had a handful of things done that never solved it.
Did you fix it?
Did you fix it?
Did you fix it?
My question is what happens if we don't do this? I have 160k miles on my 2007 F-150 with this engine and have the same little ticking noise.
Thank you bro! Followed the instructions as you laid them out. Swapped the defective rocker arm with relative ease. Saved me a trip to the mechanic. Again, thank you!
I have a modified Aussie 5.4lL 4v,it is truly a beast.
I did it. I changed out the phasers. I want to thank you for the video. I don't know that I could have done it without it. it gave me piece of mind and I rewatched various sections as I moved through the job. Many thanks for taking the time to make your videos. My 05 F150 now sounds great. Makes me feel better. It was getting to the point it sounded like gravel was in the engine. I will say that the right valve cover removal was a bear. I removed the a/c collector mount and bent the tubing slightly. Had my pal pull on it while I wiggled the cover out. Used gasket sealer to hold new gaskets in the covers when I reinstalled. Also, I had to remove the right wheel well cover to access the transmission tube bolt. That is a good tip. I took my time. Went slow. But again, thanks to your video, all went well.
certified30 Codes P0171 and P0174 are usually a hole in the pcv tube elbow. Your post was 2 years ago but maybe this will help someone. The intake gaskets at the cylinder head are also a common problem. The pcv tube problem appears more on a warm engine the gaskets more on a cold start. Monitoring fuel trims in both conditions can give you a better idea of where to look.
I would like to thank you for posting all of these videos, they are very informative. Keep up the good work.
Great video thanks. Listening to the truck run after the job seems a slight ticking/tapping is still there. With my 5.4 I though I had possible roller follower & lash adjuster issues with a similar sound constant at all temps and rpm, now I’m really not sure.
My thoughts too, sounds the same
Your videos are changing my life!!! I've been trying to fix up my 99' E150 van and your information has been priceless to me. I used to open up my hood and be too damn chicken to touch anything... but the way you explain things and identify different components has truly helped me familiarize myself with my engine. You demystify procedures that seem shrouded in secrecy and give me the courage to do attempt things I never thought I could. I bought the Ford workshop manual for my van about a month ago and have been going in on repairs. Just wanted to let you know that you really inspired me and please do some more 5.4L V8 tutorials :)
I own a F150 2004 5.4 3v trion. I just had a timing job done everything thing replace, with timing kit . New cam sensors, new alternator. Still the idle is off. I can unplug cam sensor connect and it idles perfect. Anyone has a conclusive answer to this problem please share. Thanks
Watch the videos again but I believe if it idles good with the phaser actuator disconnected, the one of the phasers are out of phase
You are always helping me out man, thanks so much!!!
Loud drivers side cam phaser. Replaced both and now have a misfire only on cylinders 1 and 3, in 2nd gear, over 3700 RPM's. Swapped coils, plugs and injectors. Checked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine. Have not done a compression check as im waiting on the special adapter.
Phasers were put in exactly as the old ones came out. Marked both chain and phaser on the "L" of the gear. I did notice that the new phasers comes with an "L" and "R" instead of a "L" and a single line like the old ones had. This should not matter as the tone rings for the the cam sensor both have the same 5th tooth pointing towards the "L" so i dont see how the gear could be 180 out.
since you are the only reliable ford guy on UA-cam, what are the odds to find a piece of metal Inside the Intake manifold, when I removed the intake to replace the gaskets while cleaning the intake I noticed that something was loose inside so when I shook it upside down a piece of metal fell down and it looks like what I can describe as an edge of a broken valve, could that have been sucked from the engine into the manifold? also if this is the case is there a way I can replace the valve without taking the head off, or I am I looking at buying a new engine? thanks a million
certified30 If the edge of the valve was cracked off it would have a misfire on that cylinder it must have come from before the intake. I would reassemble and retest. Was this the reason you pulled the intake in the first place?
FordTechMakuloco initially I had a ticking noise, I thought it was the cam phasers dying but after I changed the spark plugs that noise went away, and recently I had P0174 code and the truck was running very rough and shakes a lot so I decided to change the intake and throttle body gasket..etc to eliminate the vacuum leak probably, but when I pulled the intake I noticed that there was something loose inside it, it was a piece of metal that looks like a valve edge, I am just hoping it accidently fell in there when the throttle body was being serviced by the previous owner. at the same time I am asking my self if it is possible that the intake have sucked it in from the engine!!
i had the same problem , but what haoppened is , someone else replaced the engine and dind t get out the pieces of valve from the plastic plenum, if your engine runs good, the metal piece is from a previous repair, all you have to do is take the plenum, if you have a misfire, check your compression and obviously the cylinder with low compression is the one that that piece of valve belongs to.
certified30
Thank You very much an excellent video and outstanding explanation!!!
This engine is Jasper's #1 selling reman engine,can't keep them on their shelves.The Jasper rep that stops at my father sells at least 5 of them a week.There is a Melling M360 oil pump out there for these with a cast iron backing plate.
Does that mean Jasper sells the reman with a "fix" to this issue? Im getting ready to pick up a pristine 99, but the engine is toast.
Hi bro. I really support all your videos. You are the best guy I have seen that is very detailed. I have a 2006 expedition and I have a slight knocking noise. I really want to fix this properly. Im from California La and I need to know if you know of a good mechanic like you that you can recommend for me. Just asking. Please if you could help. Greatly appreciated.
So am I correct in assuming that the noise IM hearing on the 5.4 I have at work that makes it sound like a diesel are the Cam Phasers themselves?
FBobby Yes
FordTechMakuloco
Good to know. Thanks for the reply.
Yea. Or loose plug.
Cool stuff ! Hey YOU need to have a few on how to bullet proof your 4.6 & 5.4 to continue helping Ford people if possible !!!
Thanks for all of the in depth diagnosing. You’ve helped me many times. This one is one that I think I will have repaired by my mechanic. I really enjoyed your sign off, “and that’s all there is!” It’s equivalent to me walking a lay person through a Fire engine pumper explaining about friction loss, length of hose and how many lines a particular house fire will need for extinguishment. Keep up the videos
I have a 5.4 3V. It recently began to run very very roughly. It happened all at once just cruising down the road. I had it looked at and I am told that the right bank has compression loss. One cylinder has 47% loss and the rest are somewhat better. The shop said I probably have a bent/broken/burned valve so I should replace the engine.
A little bit of background: I bought this truck about 1.5 years ago. The previous owner said he had replaced the cam phasers and he had an invoice to prove it. Maybe the timing was serviced and maybe it wasn't. Maybe he used cheap parts that didn't last long. The engine has 179,000 miles on it. I'm thinking the problem with the engine could be that one of the phasers has failed. My question is: does this sound reasonable? Does what I am seeing in the engine sound like a phaser failure?
I plan on taking the valve cover off soon to see what things look like under there. I thought I'd pose the question here to see if my hypothesis is accurate.
Noise speeds up with more rev, and but doesn't seem as bad if it is at around 800-900 rpm
JUST FOUND THE CHANNEL CUS MY SON GRABBED A 04 FX4❤ BRILLIANT BRIAN❤ HOPEFULLY WE DON'T HAVE THESE ISSUES, BUT WITH THIS MAN RIGHT HERE, HAVING THIS KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERTISE WILL HELP US A GREAT DEAL.
My Ford F-150 makes the same noise. Will any damage occur if it is not fixed? I'm not too convinced on shelling out a couple thousand to just fix a noise.
metersocket00 No for this noise no.
FordTechMakuloco what noise is it that is more dangerous?
From engine noise to final product. I have had my Ford expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4 2003 as my most reliable vehicle. My 6.0 diesel f450 is down just about every month so Old reliable is always there for me. The vehicle is not worth anything but I've kept this one in mint condition and was going to pass it on to my daughter. Tonight for the first time I hear what sounds like a rod knock. My first thought was all this work to keep his vehicle looking incredible and now it went from Old reliable to junkyard. I've never worked the inside of a motor I have tinkered on the outside plenty. I put the stethoscope on the housing that is holding either the injectors or spark plugs not quite sure which one of the two but it sounded like the noise was going to come out of there. When you said mainly on the right side that's when I realized you're showing exactly what I need. I'm not sure if the noise I heard is exactly what you mentioned but it is on the right side is in it it is in the front and with the stethoscope it is really loud. This video is so thorough that I might take on the job myself as a learning experience. I don't think I would have it done as smooth as this is. There may be a lot of bleeding knuckles a lot of screaming walking away for the night and hope that the F-450 doesn't break again. I'm having major transmission issues with that one. Thank you for putting a very good video out there. Most video tell you it was making a knocking noise, already have the car apart and try to explain the noise instead of letting it play on video. I'm not a mechanics so hearing the noise is everything to any DIY jobs.
Are you in Georgia? I would like you to fix my truck
Best video i have seen. Great Job!!! I have a '08 expedition 5.4L that clicks at every speed and never goes away (hot or cold). using stethoscope it sounds like the noise is in the injector. I have it at family dealership replacing said injectors, but after watching your video, I am afraid it may be the issues. I guess after the injectors are in if we still have the click, I will replace the phasers myself at a later date using your instructions. Thoughts?
where do you work? I'm sick of the Ford Techs here, I have spent over $3,000 in repairs since January, and today I sat in a parking lot because my entire truck would shake and rattle when RPM's went over 1000 rpm, I have replaced Tensioners, phasers, chains, guides, solenoids, plugs, coils, I'm just about ready to trade it in if I can't get this thing to be more reliable....
2005 F-150 5.4 w/ 158k miles
I run my own business now in Chicagoland
I feel You! I have an '06 and it rattles when driving at 45mph the stops and starts again at 55. I have a check engine light one and the code is for a misfire. Took it to a shop and the said it might be the camshaft or bad timimy chain. In order to find out i have to drop another grand on it. And I just got the tranny replaced after it gave out, then this starts a couple of weeks later. It's only got 130k miles
Orlando Vega me too just fixed the tranny and having the same exact problem you describe were you able to fix it?
Mm mm no, it's just been sitting there. No time
Not sure how I've never seen your videos before, but just stumbled on them yesterday and went on a binge-watching spree! Really, really appreciate all the insight.
Question though related to the phaser knock and what might be a side effect. My '06 4.6 V8 Explorer has a knock/tick, but it's not just at idle. The sound increases with rpm and I'm having trouble pinpointing its source. It sounds similar to this sound, but I've been told it could also just be a lifter. I was going to do an oil change and throw some Bar Leak's Engine Repair with the recommended 5W-20 (Mobil 1 High Mileage), to see if it would quiet it down. But now I'm wondering about the phaser being the culprit. The car also suffers from a "stall/lurching" when around 1,500 rpm unless I turn off overdrive or apply gas and, most alarming, also runs the radiator fan at high after the AC compressor has run for a bit and I pull from a stop. Coolant really isn't too low and the radiator fan (which can show the same symptoms when running the defoggers), sounds like a UPS driver or something. If i restart the car and can [slowly] get it out of 2nd or 3rd with the AC off, the problem goes away..temporarily. Now wondering if all of this is a bad phaser messing with the belt or something?
Nice video. Definitely appreciate a visual guide. I read the service procedure and couldn't understand why you're suppose to remove the roller followers but I get it now. Diving into my dad's 06 F250 tomorrow to do phasers, chains, guides and tensioners. Should be fun!
I just had mine done @103k miles, 08 expedition. Was making noise every since I bought it with 72k miles. Who knows how long it was doing it before me. Dealer did not want to fix prior to deal so the gave me an ext. warranty instead. In hind site I'm glad we went this route because they would have fixed nothing more that what absolutely needed it. So I would have been doing it over again. Sounded like a rod knock. Just driver had bad phaser. Chain was so loose it's a wonder it did not jump time. Did phasers both sides, chains both sides, tensioners both sides, guides both sides , oil pump , water pump and belt. Some of the work was "just because" it was open to do it and not have to tear it back down later .... HOPEFULLY thank god one side was covered by ext warranty. Still cost me $1k vs $4k which in my opinion would have been a new motor if I would not of had warranty. I have gotten good use of the warranty to. Lots of money saved. I guess I'm kinda disappointed on the other hand of quality of Ford and all the expensive repairs needed. Thanks for the great videos you make sir!!!! Mike Tiffin ohio
Very detailed, you make it feel like even i can do the fix NOT! Thanks a million for sharing, you are fantastic.
Thank You for all your direction to those who need your assistance and direction, Your direction is far better than thatI have received from some Ford garages. Thank You
Hey I have a knocking noise on my 03 expedition 5.4l 2v it does it on every cold start and it gets quieter as it warms up. Any advise on that issue?
Those don't have the cam phasers in them. I would bet the timing chain guides are broken.
Just performed this today on my 2010 4.6 stx 4x4 with 130xxx miles. Thought maybe it was a rocker or a lifter but come to find out it was the phaser because after the oil warmed up and thinned out you could hear knocking noise. No more knocking. The camshaft did turn while I was putting in the new phaser but thank goodness I marked it. Grab some vise grips and turned it back. Now I just got to figure out why the truck almost has a shutter while driving. Local transmission shop said wasn't the transmission. Put on a new transmission mount and I still have a problem. Wondering if it needs a whole new timing chain now. Thinking about just driving to your shop @fordtechmakuloco. Thanks for all the help so far 👍
I bought a piece of trim moulding and a threaded rod and nut at Lowes for about $6. I cut down the wood just small enough to fit past the phaser and it worked like a charm. My 2004 F150 with 193,000 miles diesel sounding 5.4 is silent and running great!! I followed your procedure with no problems. Thank You for the help
make a video of that.
Def make video of that lol
I just came to get an idea of what to tell a customer. i like the fact that you dont talk to much about things unnecessary.
This is vital to following someone's instructions. Yours seem much easier to follow than some others ty
Alth0ough I i'm not actually following them for any repair.
amazing videos, thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge, can really save the average joe a lot of time and money and from being screwed over by some shop... really really appreciated
Great video my man. Pushing 300k on my 08 navigator. It started knocking loud, like very loud and misfiring alot. Will be doing the phasers now.
This guy has the face of someone who’s gonna upset the crap outta you
😂
You have the face that makes me wanna beat your sorry ass down in the street
That's because he's pointing out problems with your sorry ass 5.4 motor.
FordTechMakuloco - what is the difference between the 5.4L 3V Triton found in the 2008 F150s and the 2009 F150s? I'm looking to buy a complete timing kit and save some money (almost 1/3 the price of Ford parts) and I'd like to know if the 2008 kit will fit my 2009 engine. I've noticed the exact same low-frequency knocking noise, more pronounced at a cold start up but especially when I'm next to building. I also hear a louder knocking noise whenever I accelerate and the engine is under a load. I've replaced the plugs, VCT solenoids on both sides and cleaned the throttle body but it's still there. Thank you for your time and the great videos you've posted. I've donated because you've saved me money and I support what you're doing.
I was in the market for a 04-08 f150..... not anymore good lord
I have one put 115k on it has 315k runs fine one og motor and tranny
Phillip Turinsky mines been great to me they work great if you take care of them. Synthetic oil. Fuel filters and oil filters regularly and you should be fine
They are good motor runs 400k with good maintenance failures are dou to none oil changes
I want to say awesome video. I have a 2005 ford f150 4 x 4 truck. It has the 5.4 liter engine. I have the similar knocking noise from the phazers. My truck has around 182k miles on it and runs fine. It idles great and has all kinds of power yet there is the knocking noise. I have gone the cheap route and that is to replace the 4 sensors connected with the phazers. I had autozone reset my check engine light and I have been running my truck for two weeks now and the light has stayed off. Just recently I took it on a 220 mile road trip to see if the light would come back on which it hasn't. My question is how much life can I expect from the phazers? Since the truck is running fine with no check engine light on should I leave it alone? I have read on the internet that even if I replace the phazers the noise will come back as the new phazers will wear out. Ford knows about this and from what I have read does nothing about it. Replacing the phazers will run me around 3500 dollars a pop and if they keep going out that can add up. My thoughts are that if the phazers are going to be a really big issue Im going back to a chevy truck. Any suggestions? thoughts?
Like a surgeon, I wish I lived closer to you guys.
Mr. Makuloco, 06 F150 FX4 / my truck makes a rattling noise from the engine, it only does it when you creep on the gas like on a drive thru when you gently press the gas to creep up. Or at idle if you gently press the gas it does it too, the bad part is that the truck stutters at 35-45mph uphill especially, rpm flutters. Mechanic tells me that all it needs is the camshaft phaser/time kit replacement and all I mentioned will go away. You think this is accurate? Thank you for your time
Eduardo Gallardo It sounds like you have a miss, (a cylinder...maybe two, that have bad coils and your not getting ignition in those cylinders) best way to check is to go one by one and unplug the coils and see if there is any difference in how it's running, if the engine runs worse when you unplug a coil then that coil is good, plug it back in and move to the next one...the coil or coils that do not have an effect on your engines idle when unplugged are bad and need replaced
Thanks for the video I was about to pass on a really nice expedition that is presenting the same rough running and noise issue
Yes exactly that's the sound that every now and then I hear but if I can live with it then fine I can live with it
Mine ticks too, sometimes it goes away after its warmed up. it's done that as long as i can remember
Has that been years? And is it still running alright?
I’ve had it 7 years now. It has about 270,000kms on it. I bought it used. I just change the oil regularly, I’ve changed the spark plugs twice myself. Other than that it runs great.oh and I did have to change the fuel sending unit, they mount them right by the spare tire underneath the box. The salt here eats the case. But that’s just a plug it in fix and maybe 2 bolts. If you’re not in a salty area you’ll be fine.
@@jacksimi is your truck still working
@@AaronRowland-y5w Yup still going strong. I find if I use a ford oil filter it helps a lot. But it still runs fine, No issues or codes. I've changed the plugs 2 summers ago. Other than that it runs great.
@@jacksimi I have a 2004 ford f150 triton 213,345 miles no check engine light has power runs great but it sounds like a diesel when it's warmed up any ideas of what it can be someone said can phasers but it sounds quite on on a cold morning start
How do you feel about lockout kits and why? Also what actually causes the cam phasers to become faulty and make this noise?
I already had a ticking sound I was told it was normal. But now i have ticking AND knocking
Same!! Hows engine? You fix?
My knock get really loud at 1000rpms
Good morning @fortechmakuloco I am about to do this in my truck but i have a question, is it neccesary to take the 6 rollers if I am only going to change the phaser on the right side? Thank you in advance for the helpful video
no just the three rollers from the side you are working on.
i have watched some videos of the people removing the rockers and some do NOT remove the rockers? is it completely necessary to remove the 3 rockers on each side?
thanks
I would if its your first time but I have an updated video just released.
@@FordTechMakuloco I think I saw your updated video, and it says only on the left hand side? Why doesn't it work right hand too?
Would you change phasers on an engine with over 200,000 miles? Or rather change all the timing components?
Always all.
As thorough and detailed as you were, I still got lost haha. Guess I'll just have to rewatch the video a few times. Thnx for the info tho!
I have replaced cam phasers on a few and some of them said as long as it runs I would use 15-40 oil and I have a few with over 100k after the phasers started making noise no problem. I want to thank you for helping me with lean conditions on 5.4 3v missing rocker on intake never would of looked for that thanks your videos are the best
Sadly, built Ford tough is a thing of the past....my dad would not be happy....he made me and my brother big fans of Ford...Now we have to Jump ship to Dodge and Gm....I guess Toyota is the last resort.
Dodge and gm 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
you're very knowledgeable. thank you for sharing.
If removing the camshafts in order to access and replace the lash adjusters, can I assume the cam positioning method a reliable way to relieve valve tension from the remaining 9 valves on each side and safely remove and replace the cam caps without risk to damaging those threads? Or do I need to remove all of the roller followers before unfastening the cam tower caps?
OK so my truck 2007 f150 5.4 is reading code p0012 I replaced both cam sensors and both VCT my truck still ideals rough and starts to sound like a diesel, it gets really bad and starts to ideal down and when I keep driving it when I come to a complete stop it ideals down and dies out
Richard Anthony ever found out what it was?
BrewMonsta I have an 03 that sounds like a diesel found out its coming from Trans which has major problem apparently. Google it...hope that helps, I'm in process of looking for Trans now.
Replace Cam phasers
Ha Richard I'm having the same issue on my 2007 f1504x4 130.000 miles got a new timimg chain ford has went back in it and cant find whats causing this problem can you help me please thanks
ceethelight 123 you need a thicker oil. 15w 40
Long time watcher you are one the best Ford Techs. I wanted to ask you if you have videos for the 1999-2003 F 150 4.2L V6 on Common issues , Timing Chain, Differential I am getting alot of noise from it even thow I changed the oil on it , Transmission Videos thanks
I only have a few videos that go over the coil pack and egr port issues common on the 4.2
Great video brother. Thanks.
Hey, folks, don't ignore this issue....when I opened my timing and valve covers (IAW this channels videos; thanks, by the way!), the TTY bolt on my cam phaser was finger tight....the pin had turned sideways, tore up the journal and scored the front of the cam shaft as the phaser walked its way loose....so I had a whole bank not turning, and now possible bent valves in addition to the damage to the cam shaft.
You are truly a master of this trade! Thank you very much for explaining this procedure in such detail for anyone to understand. I have had my first experience with the 2 piece plugs and now the cam phasers on the same truck.
Do you have any videos that focus on how to get access to the passenger side valve covers? Most videos are from the driver side - easier access. Thanks! Great Video!
your the best best teacher
Hi Brian,
My son in law has a new to him 2004 F-150 Lariet 4x4 5.4L with ~190,000KM (~120,000mi) showing on the odometer. It appears to have had reasonably good maintenance and runs well with no abnormal engine noises, but it is throwing a P0011 DTC. We've been doing a lot of research on the subject, especially from your videos to try and educate ourselves as to what the problem could be. The previous owner told us that the cam phasers were replaced with aftermarket units a few years ago. We reasoned that the most probable cause was either the VCT solenoid, or the phaser itself. The solenoid coil resistance was 8.5 ohms, which seemed reasonable. We did a data log under real world road conditions with his scan tool and it showed that when the cams should be retarded both were being commanded by the PCM, but the commanded PWMs were different, which makes sense considering the code. The error on the left bank was normal and the left cam was being retarded. The error on the right bank was high and the cam was not being retarded at all at. We swapped the cam sensors to see if the problem would follow the sensor, but it did not, which lead us to believe the problem was either a stuck or faulty solenoid, or a stuck phaser. We purchased a new OEM solenoid and seal from our local Ford dealer and installed it. No change.
So, it looks like it is most likely the phaser, but we want to be as sure as we can that this is in fact the problem before we commit to doing a complete timing set with OEM parts. In all our research we haven't run across a situation where a phaser has stuck in the fully advanced position with out resulting is some engine noise. We do have an exhaust leak on that bank which we will have to address, but we can't hear anything that seems to be internal, either under no load or under load.
Have you had an experience like this, or can you offer some suggestions as to what else we can check?
ONE FKD UP DESIGN BY ''FORD''..........
Jim Cash. People always joke about the "Fix Or Repair Daily" thing and I'm starting to find that that's partially true with my Mustang GT. I always have to fix something lolz. Still love the car to death though.
If American auto manufactures don't get there shit together,they will all close. Gap shits are taking over world wide. WTF !
it is a mazda fucked up motor,,, the 351 should still be the standard...
We can thank the Federal gov't for these shitty engine designs. You're right. The 460 and 351 should still be in production. Maybe we'll see engine options going back to more simpler, reliable configuration with Trump in charge.
@car: Says you
Thanks for all your awesome information. I worked as a Ford Tec for 4 1/2 years but when the 5.4 3valve came out I left got mine done this weekend. It seems to run good because I started with all 8 coils and plugs all Motor Craft on my late build 08 F150. But your discription of the noise was exactly what mine was doing. I got the truck for $260.00 neeed a transmission that's my line of work. 👍🏻👊🏻💥🤘🏻😎💯
Some ford tech! You could even diagnose your own problem.
whats your take on the livernous lockout kit for phasers , does it hurt or help ?
Henry Ford Hello Henry did you get an answer to your question about the locking phacers?
As a certified 5 Star, triple OG Ford Master Tech I do not recommend them.
This is interesting...
If you have any advice I’d much appreciate it.
I have a 2012 Buick Verano. The car is literally dying when leaving from a complete stop. Example: start car , put into drive, press on gas to leave idle, dies right away. And it will do this over and over again, sometimes if you “floor” it, it may not die.
But anyway I replaced 2 solenoids .. only to still have this issue.. got some advice from another shop .. they looked at it and suggest the culprit could be the “phasers” or the whole timing kit at that.
What do you think about this?
Any advice is appreciate . Thanks.