How To Solder SquarePlugs
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- Howdy folks! Today, the Rig Doctor runs you through the steps necessary to solder your DIY patch cables using Square Plugs using SP400, SP500, SPS4, and SPS5 Plugs - the smallest soldered 1/4" plug in the world! If you are using a different plug, don’t worry! These steps will work with any of the straight or pancake plugs and most types of patch cables from Mogami, Canare, Van Damme, and others. If you have questions, let us know in the comments below and subscribe: / vertexeffectsinc
//table of contents//
SP400 / SP500 (Pancake) Assembly - 01:46
SPS4 / SPS5 (Straight) Assembly - 05:13
🔻 //support// 🔻
/ rigdoctor
paypal.me/rigdoctor
🔈 //podcast// 🔈
Apple: apple.co/36dSQzK
Spotify: spoti.fi/2WGLku8
⬇️ //recommended patch cable materials// ⬇️
Mogami 2314 (bulk cable) - amzn.to/31SluVE
Mogami 2319 (bulk cable) - amzn.to/2HIZ7dm
Square Plugs SP500 (pancake) - bit.ly/32m63mU
Square Plugs SP400 (pancake) - bit.ly/3atPJ8Y
Square Plugs SPS5 (straight) - bit.ly/34qiajW
Square Plugs SPS4 (straight) - bit.ly/30WwAJJ
Pre-Made Cables with SquarePlugs - bit.ly/3kJFvGl
⬇️ //cable making tools// ⬇️
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/2TTdMI4
Solder (60/40) - amzn.to/2U7XhsD
Solder Dispenser - amzn.to/2GpgMpR
Octopus Arms - amzn.to/2V3O8OD
Wire Strippers (30-20 AWG) - amzn.to/2BBMI6n
Wire Strippers (20-10 AWG) - amzn.to/2EbhBR3
Wire Snips - amzn.to/2EazwqU
Vise - amzn.to/2E9eTLO
Heat Gun (embossing gun) - amzn.to/2BwGdlm
Truetone Milliamp/Cable Tester - amzn.to/2F9v3VN
Multimeter - amzn.to/2YW9BdE
👇 CLICK BELOW FOR ALL DIY DIAGRAMS 👇
DIY Power Cables: vertexeffects.com/diy-power-c...
DIY Interface: vertexeffects.com/diy-interface
CONTRIBUTORS:
Hunter Harrison - Mixing, Audio Editing
Mason Mejia - Co-Producing, Audio Editing
Mason Marangella - Co-Producing
#RigDoctor #SquarePlugs #DIYPatchCables - Фільми й анімація
Howdy folks! Today, the Rig Doctor runs you through the steps necessary to solder your DIY patch cables using Square Plugs using SP400, SP500, SP4, and SP5 Plugs! If you are using a different plug, don’t worry! These steps will work with any of the straight or pancake plugs and most types of patch cables from Mogami, Canare, Van Damme, and others.
⬇️ //recommended patch cable materials// ⬇️
Mogami 2314 (bulk cable) - amzn.to/31SluVE
Mogami 2319 (bulk cable) - amzn.to/2HIZ7dm
SquarePlugs SP500 (pancake) - bit.ly/32m63mU
SquarePlugs SPS5 (straight) - bit.ly/34qiajW
Pre-Made Cables with SquarePlugs - bit.ly/3kJFvGl
@fastguitar Squareplug isn't a good choice for the cable that goes from the amp to the pedal board and it's not a good choice for the cable that connects to your guitar. Really these are only going to be good for patch cables that live on the pedalboard.
Just my .02 but I'm willing to bet Mason agrees.
These are only for the pedalboard patch cables. Don’t use these from guitar to pedalboard, or pedalboard to amp!
⬆️ what GuitarGodgt said
@@VertexEffectsInc does that apply to when you connect to a amp sim like an iridium? I have one in my board.
@@jmd12331 I don't understand your question
Having never soldered anything before, I bought a few tools, followed your examples with Mogami 2314 and SP400 plugs and have completely re-routed my mini pedalboard to fit all my pedals with hardly any cables visible. Looks fantastic, sounds great-I would not have been able to do it without your expertise. Thanks so much, Mason!
So glad I could help!!!
Got any tips for tinning the sleeve lug of the sp400? I’m really new to soldering as well and it’s giving me lots of trouble.
This video came at the perfect time. I just bought 400 of them and messed the first couple up lol. I'm still figuring this whole thing out.
🥳🥳🥳 good luck
I soldered my cables last night. Thank you Rig Dr! I used this video for help and once I got the hang of it I had your podcast on in the background. Keep up the good work
Glad it helped!
These are some of the finest patch cable tips I've ever seen. I really don't see them getting any better than this unless it's like gold plating tip or something
Robert Nolan That stuff so bogus, most of it’s just plating anyway. I would like to see some ribs in the channel of the housing, but it would make it slightly deeper and overall I think the design is great.
I build cables and hand wired tube amps for a living.
On most soldered connections - especially cables - I use an awl, pointy scratcher, pick, poker on a stick - whatever you want to call it - and I scratch the connection surface a little - then clean it with denatured alcohol.
The alcohol cleans up any loose metal particles you made from scratching it up - and the alcohol - on a Q-tip - cleans off any oils or manufacturing chemicals left behind.
This ensures a good solid connection for the solder.
It is a little tedious to perform this step on every connection - but I do not have solder joint connection failures since performing these simple steps.
I think that's a good solution, especially for some of the cheaper plugs that don't do any treatment to prevent corrosion to the lugs after manufacturing. For the most part, I've found the higher end stuff to be pretty good in that regard.
Well met. Thank you for taking the time to teach/ instruct. Always get inspired with your detailed video’s here. Cheers!
hey Mason.. thank you for sharing this wonderful tip.. like always.. yours is the only channel by far that I always grab a pen and paper just to make sure I take note of all your tips and tricks.. keep up the great work.. and thanks again..
So glad he did it! And I hope we earned your subscription. As always we link everything in the description so you don’t have to take too many notes.
Thanks for posting this and your other videos. I'm learning in part because I'm interested and therefore motivated but you're a good teacher and that makes the difference.
Glad to help!
Really appreciate the guides Mason, your knowledge is extremely valuable! Thanks for the great videos brother
My pleasure! I hope we earn your subscription!
Thanks for clarifying when to use SP400 vs SP500! Great takeaway!
🙏🙏🙏
+++ its allways a pleasure to see a real Pro at work+++ big Fan of your chanal, Mason
Glad you enjoy it!
Your videos are gold, thanks!
Heck yeah, LOVE these plugs. They made my pedalboard life 1000x easier.
Heck yea!!!
Thank you Mason!!! Made it sooo much easier for me 🙏🏻. Keep doing what you do.
You're so welcome!
Masterful, Mason. Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching!
I’ve gotta rescue the patch cable I threw away and practice fixing one. Thank you for this!
Hopefully you find it helpful
This is gold! Thank you Mason!
You're very welcome! I hope we earned your subscription!
Mason !! Love your videos. This one was so helpful. Because of your recommendations, I removed all my solderless cables and replace them with soldered ones. Thanks a lot
Glad I could help!
Your videos have helped me out so much! Thank you!
🙏🙏🙏
now i got it!! this is awesome, thanks rig doctor!!
Glad it was helpful Daniel
Very good video. Thank you for explaining all of this nuances.
🙏🙏🙏 thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tip video. I just got a 10-channel switcher pack of straight SP4 and pancake SP400 from Alphatone Audio. Perfect timing on your video. Cheers!
🥳🥳🥳
Super helpful! Thank you for sharing this.
Thank you tor this great tutorial. I had a lot of issues with my cables and squareplugs . I will try this tips for my next ones
Good luck! Let’s us know if we can help!
Excellent video tutorial. Thank you so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the great tutorial. Wiring up my first patch cables with 2314/SP400. This vid was exactly what I needed!
Glad it was helpful!
@@VertexEffectsInc New cables were a complete success. Cheers!
@@jimmymarbut996 amazing!!!!!!
Thank you very much for the great information you provide !
My pleasure! I hope we earned your subscription
Thank you very much for the amazing information. You guys are awesome. 👏
🙏🙏🙏
Great guide. Stumbled upon your channel by accident, really like the content. Subbed !
Wow! Thanks!
Well done. Great video. Lots of useful little tips in there.
I’m so glad he did it! I hope we earned your subscription
Excellent video... thank you for making it... learned a lot !!
🙏🙏🙏 our pleasure
Hey Mason- I own a small custom cabling company here in NJ - I started five years ago with patch cables. I met Karim at NAMM some years back before anyone had seen his square plugs. He’s a friend of mine now and he’s brilliant. The last time I went to NAMM every single pedal company was using them. They are the best, hands down. This is a fantastic video, and easy for those who are new to this to follow. I was soldering the straights a little bit differently than this but I really like how you solder them and will begin using your method moving forward. I also really appreciate you showing how little needs to come off of the insulation before tinning. I tend to go longer and then snip, but this is really efficient and I love the focus on proper strain relief. Awesome video brother. 🤘🏼
Thanks for watching! Agree 100% on Squareplugs!
Simple... once you see how it is done properly... thanks for sharing 😀
Very good! I am going to solder my cables now!
👍👍👍
SPS6M and SP600 w/ 6mm Mogami 2524 will be my goal for next pedalboard. Excellent video, we always need the details!
For a pedalboard, the 2524 is not a good idea, too thick, no benefit sonically for these types of runs. I would stick with 2314 or 2319. 2524 is for outside of the pedalboard.
I may have mentioned this before, but one of the problems I had when I first started using square plugs was I was trying to feed wire through the lugs & there isn't much room to solder that way. I now do it the same way you show here & it's works great, even w/ very short cables.
It’s not necessary on the pancake end. If won’t hurt - but I’ve seen a lot of new DIYers have issues feeding the center conductor through the lug and shorting to the housing not realizing they need to cut off the excess cable behind the lug that they can’t see.
Thanks uncle mason! Really helpful!
I’m so glad!
Awesome video!! 🤙🏼
🥰🥰🥰
This video was suggested for me. I love the content and your explanation. I think you should try to get a camera mount. It was really hard to see a lot of the details because the camera was having difficulty focusing where you were working. I'd also slow down a little with the hand work just to make sure the whole audience is able to follow along. Thank you for the info.
Joe Donahue Thanks for the feedback, the overhead camera is on a mount. The side view camera is hand held.
@@VertexEffectsInc Anything to help sharpen the detail around the work is appreciated. Just forwarded this to some co-workers working on their own pedalboard builds. You just made several peoples day. Thank you!
Thanks again for the feedback and for watching! I hope we earned your subscription
thanks Mason!
Mine should be arriving any day. You'll probably get a few more views of me just replaying this vid. Wish me luck!
Peace!
🥰🥰🥰 sounds good! Good luck!
Good Stuff Mason!!
🥰🥰🥰
thank you so much (OBRIGADO) ... this helped me a lot ... once again ...
Greetings from Portugal !
My pleasure, you’re very welcome, I hope we’ve earned you as a subscriber
@@VertexEffectsInc no you didnt!! just because i'm already a long time subscriber of yours ;) :))))
Rock on ...
🙏🙏🙏
Awesome info Mason :)
🙏🙏🙏
This is much easier than I though!. I can't wait to start!.
You can do it!
I use a 1/4 inch piece of heat-shrink over the wire where it goes through the collar of the SP 400 for added strain protection. I know it’s not necessary, but I sleep better at night knowing it’s never going to pull out. Also, I really tighten down on those screws with a real screwdriver. 👍🏻
It won’t hurt anything depending on the diameter of cable. I wouldn’t want to try using, for example Mogami 2319, with heat shrink on the SP 400 series. It will deform the cable and you risk having some reliability issues long-term. By the way, the heat shrink won’t do much in terms of strain relief on a pull, only the lateral movement (side to side). The solder connections are really the only significant strain relief you have against pulling (front to back).
Vertex Effects I can definitely agree with you that there can be “too much of a good thing” (as in your M2319 example), but I disagree with you in terms of the heat shrink not helping with strain relief. The heat shrink widens the diameter of the wire, effectively giving the collar more “squeeze power.”
MostlyTorso Strain relief is there whether it’s lateral or vertical movement. On this particular model, there are no teeth in the housing to really hold the cable in place. And some of the switchcraft brands for example, There are ribs in the bottom and top of the housing they are offset in order to create strain relief front to back. On these particular devices, and I have tested with pull testers, it’s pretty limited in strain relief movement front to back because there isn’t any ribs in the slotted channel where the plug enters they housing. And if you build it up too much, as we noted above, it will deform the cable and result and other undesirable connection issues. At the end of the day most of this is a non-issue if it’s on a pedalboard and is light years ahead of any solderless equivalent is this regard.
Vertex Effects I still respectively disagree that it wouldn’t help with pull protection, but I can agree with you that this is a moot point anyway AND that solderless cables suck ass. Ha ha.
MostlyTorso In a pull test, it’s about 1.2ish lbs of force between a Mogami 2319 in an SP 500 connector with heat shrink between the housing and outer diameter of the cable versus no heat shrink on a vertical pull. It helps - you’re right, but it’s nominal when you’re talking about 45 pounds in force for a break. So about 2% difference overall.
I bought some SPS4s to use not on a pedal board but on the back of an electronic drum sound module because I wanted the audio output cables to bend on the same plane as the pad trigger cables.
Standard-length plugs like the NP2X would
a) invite damage to the PCB-mounted output jacks by sticking out past the other cables and
b) place more mechanical strain on the output jacks because the longer plugs exert greater leverage.
Worked out great, and it cost me only two-and-a-half times what I would have spent for premade cables that would have met my needs. 😂
Glad it worked out!
Great video. As a rank beginner, I need much closer in images of the solder connections, before, during, and after the connections are made, if only to make absolutely clear what is being soldered.
Good tip!
Nice, thanks
No problem 👍
Great video. I'm using a cable with a little more volume of the outer shielding so that It can't fit through the hole in a SP4. I do the reverse of the procedure shown without bending either of the tabs. The center conductors goes through the hole, soldered and snipped if any extra is there... the shield is soldered on the interior of the ring tab. So far, no issues...but the board isn't done yet, so we'll really find out as soon as all the cables are done.
You can cut some of the shield away, it won't hurt anything.
Thanks man!
Happy to help!
Thanks!
No problem!
@@VertexEffectsInc I am learning so much from you. Not ready to drop $129 right off but $10 here and there is doable.
5 Stars! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Wow, thanks!
I love squareplug. I did my mini board with them and pretty much won't go back to normal patch cables ever. I used SP400 ends and w3214 as well.
My soldering technique is a little different than what you did, but I don't see any issue with what you did. It might be easier for anyone who is new to dip the tinned wire into some flux paste before applying it to the pre-tinned lugs on the cable end just to make sure the joint is good if they do exactly what you showed here.
Also anyone who wants to try doing this, I strongly recommend getting good solder. Cheap solder is absolutely zero fun. Snag some Kester 24-6337-0027, it will be worth it just to avoid the hassle that comes with junky solder.
I think the Pancake is hard to mess up - pretty standard. The SP4 and SP5 are the tricky ones. That bend on the tip is critical when you have so little cable to work with to maintain the integrity of the strain relief. I linked a high quality Kester 60/40 leaded solder in the description.
Great instruction Doctor. If I could make a suggestion. It would be helpful if we could get closer to the action though. It was hard to see the detail.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@VertexEffectsInc I feel like it's always hard for a video to show that close of detail. Maybe take a zoomed in nice camera photo and just clip it in to show some important parts.
Inspiring stuff, Mason. What kind of bench vice are you using there?
See links in description
Great video!! Thanks a lot for sharing so much cool stuff!
I have two questions:
1.- what’s the criteria for choosing a thicker or a thinner cable? (And as a consequence choosing an SP4 or SP5 plug)
2.- What temperature do you set your soldering iron? Any recommendations for this?
One, I would refer to the retailers of the plugs themselves, there is a look up table that has been created by square plugs. Typically I’m just using 2319 with the five series, and 2314 with the four series. In terms of temperature you’re not gonna have too much game once it’s over around 600° other than wearing out your iron faster.
I did subscribe love the info! Ordered a bunch from your link! What temp you run the solder gun at!? Thank you for sharing!! God bless!!!
Amazing! What's the range of your iron?
@@VertexEffectsInc weller in your comments is the one I bought!
I just redid my entire pedalboard with Square Plugs. Love them! Mason, I'd love to know what you think of my pedalboard loom....I'm using a stereo rig with a 7 cable method. My loom includes all guitar signal cables as well as midi and DC supply for the pedals. On the pedalboard side I have one single Amphenol multipin connector for everything. Have you every used that kind of termination for rigs?
I haven't but if it's not getting any noise, then I suppose it's all good!
@@VertexEffectsInc Studio quiet!
@@FreddysFrets great!!!
Looking for a Square Plug tutorial and this was perfect! I suppose I could search on that vice, but do you have a link for that thing? I'm just getting started soldering and that looks like it would be a great tool.
Links are in the description
Hi! Thank you for sharing! I need to buy a new soldering iron an some wire. What do you recommend? Cheers
Ricardo Rocha Link in the description to the ones I recommend and the solder
Hey Rig Doctor! Love all your videos. I’ve got some 2314, and some SP4s/SP400s I’m using to wire a board with an ES-8 Switcher. So far both the cables I’ve soldered work when I plug guitar into amp, but when I try to run them from the tuner out on the ES8 to my Korg Pitchblack, the tuner is not functioning properly, it’s reading incorrect notes and just going haywire. In addition, the connection seems to be a little sketchy, if I wiggle the soldered cables in my cable tester (CT100) some of the lights go out.
The answer is probably just keep practicing, but is there some obvious thing I could be doing wrong, so I can avoid wasting more plugs?
If you email us some pics we can take a look info@vertexeffects.com
Thanks Mason. What brand and model cable do you use when making TRS cables?
Mogami 2552.
Hey mason in your other soldering video you say you should take off all of that inner shielding, do you just leave it on for these specific plugs?
If the cable has a thermal conductive plastic around the center conductor, you definitely need to remove it completely or it will impact the sound of the cable greatly. The Mogami 2314 does not have this, however the Mogami 2319 does. If you were to repeat the same tutorial with 2319 you would have to add a step of removing the thermal conductive plastic around the center conductor so that it looks clear.
Thanks for the video, really helpful! I'm starting with DIY cables. Do you recommend a specific type of soldering wire? Which one should I use? And does it affect the sound or not?
I like Kester 60/40 I listed it in the links in the video description.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks for always taking the time to answer! That's actually what I'm using, I just didn't know if it was ok
Mason, thank you for these videos you have been a tremendous help!
Do the SP400s work with the 2319? or do I have to use the 2314? (I want to make sure I don't have to use heat shrink, and that the cable will fit nice and snug)
They will, just barely.
@@VertexEffectsInc awesome thank you!
Good luck!
Hold the Phone! (Record Scratch)...just want to say that The Sp400s and sp 500s do not work with the Boss ES-8 if anyone is using them for that. If you have an ES5 or ES8 you can use the sp400 or sp500 for the pedal end, but to plug into the ES8 you will need to use the sp4 or sp5... The dudes at Bestronics are extremely helpful...Thanks again Mason!
kevinmbuck That’s correct, they have a look up table on the square plugs website that shows this as well as well as other compatibility with certain devices and switchers
Hey Mason! I got around soldering my SP500 plugs but I almost always get crackings when I plug the cable and move it around (ex. in a pedal to test it). Any idea why?
Dirty contacts inside the pedal most likely (presuming the cable was assembled correctly). Try cleaning your contacts with Deoxit D5.
What do u use to test the cables?
In the SP400 I have sometimes had concerns about the shield making contact with the tip in the center of the plug, so I have taken to folding the shield back against the outer sleeve and letting it get pinched in between the sleeve and the collar. Would love to know if/why from your opinion that’s a bad idea
I'm not sure I fully understand your reason for it or the advantage of doing it this way. The only risk of touching the tip and sleeve would be if you exposed a lot of the wire of the tip so that risked a short to the housing. Maybe link a photo of what you're doing - maybe I don't understand it.
Great video Mason! I think you should mention having a good quality wire stripper. I finally got a $20 one and stripping was so much easier and I ruined far less cables. Also, instead of a vice, I use a piece of wood with 1/4 holes drilled in it. That way I can lind up a bunch of plugs at once and tin them super fast. It's like a little plug soldering factory. Would you use an SP 5 for an instrument cable?
I see you answered my instrument cable question already! Thanks
I link all the ones that I approve of, but I appreciate the feedback nonetheless
Hey Mason. I wanted to ask you something. Is the cable that’s used in a TRS cable different that a regular TS cable or is it just the plugs.
Different plugs and different cable. For TRS I use a twisted pair shielded Mogami 2552 cable and SP550-S plugs
What plugs do you recommend for an instrument cable? Thanks for all of your amazing content!
Neutrik
@@VertexEffectsInc NP2X and NP2RX?
@@lukejames8679 or the silent plugs in some instances
Do the tips need to go through the holes on the tabs? I can’t get it to after tinning the ends.
No, they don’t
Hey, is there a chance you can make a video about making a trs cable to plug into the iridium in stereo ?
Is that an insert cable?
@@VertexEffectsInc yes!
Mogami 2528 is what you need - I’ll make a diagram soon. TRS SquarePlug on the Iridium end, dual TS on the preceding stereo pedal. It doesn’t matter which conductor you designate to tip or ring, just tie together both shields to the sleeve on the TRS side and you’re golden!
Hi there, quick question if I may. Would the brand of the plug matter? I've seen somekind of brand out there for sp400 and others. Would the 2$ different with the 7$? Or it is more a gimmick? Talking specifically for patch plug not for guitar plug. Thanks much!
I thot you are supposed to heat up the surface that you’re soldering to before you do the actual solder attachment. I often cooked some part of the piece and I haven’t soldered for years, so thnx, I’m jazzed to try it again. Also, when you strip only the teeniest bit of insulation off the conductor, you’re not worried about “polluting” the solder with plastic from the insulation? Obviously not, so thnx again. I’m subscribed and “liked” and I’m ordering from you !
If you tin both sides you shouldn't need to spend a lot of time on the lugs to reheat them and get solder flow. It should be very minimal time on the lug and the wire with the iron. The center insulator isn't conductive if you peel away the conductive plastic as I suggest.
What's the conventional wisdom on using a short section of heat-shrink on a SPS4 assembly as a means of preventing the strain relief screws from digging too deep into the insulation layer? Curious about that. I'd be worried about screwing them down too far and eating into the shield layer.
If you were too by accident, it would be a secondary connection of shield to sleeve. No harm as long as you avoid the conductor. Heat shrink is there more so as added strain relief on the solder joint.
By all means, use it, but you don't need much. A half inch or so past the jack is enough. Any more and you're likely working against the heat shrink when patching, diminishing it's integrity. As a patch cable, it's not moving like an instrument cable is.
These connectors shouldn't be used for instruments. Use beefier connectors(with larger solder points) for that.
Awesome tips! Do you have any recommendations on a good soldering iron? Thanks!!
Yes see links in description
@@VertexEffectsInc Awesome! Thanks!
🙏🙏🙏
Great video, I’ve already made my first few patch cables using your method, great results.
Can you tell us which cable you use for TRS patch cables? Got to connect some footswitches for my HXStomp and can only find low-quality pre-made cables, I’d like to make my own using SP550-S plugs.
Mogami 2552
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks!!
@@captbuscemi 👍👍👍
Hey there Uncle Mason! Really appreciate your guides man, but I was wondering at what temperature do you solder the patch cables? Is there an ideal temperature for doing this?
Around 6-700 degrees F
@@VertexEffectsInc Ty Mason!
Thanks for the awesome guide. I’m in the process of making my own patch cables. My wire strippers are DESTROYING my cable ends as I try to strip! Is the gauge for 2314 wire non-standard? I can’t seem to find the info in the specs. Seems like 10 and 12 are stripping too much or too little.
It is standard but there is also a "feel" component to doing it right - also if you have dull strippers that can make it hard to work with.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks so much!
I am interested in buying square to straight pre-made cables. I have a boss es-8 and not sure why the listing you have for pre-made cables say they are not compatible.. please explain
The SPS-4 SPS-5 are compatible with the ES-8, the SP400, and SP500 are not.
Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using different diameter cables? Is thicker better....is thinner better.....why would you choose one over the other?
I recommend 2314 for these connectors, you can watch our shootout of several different cables to see why we chose this. With a buffer most of these cables won't sound different from each other. The thicker cables aren't an advantage on the pedalboard. Off the pedalboard they may be because they're more robust.
hi mason i have the sqp sp550sbk plugs there a trs plug so what cable do u suggest? also any news on if ur going to sell the part kits for ur diy buffers? since i cant order the parts in ur link here in Austraila. also congrats on ur new switcher :)
Mogami 2552
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks mate :)
@@djhinormas959 my pleasure!
I noticed on the pancake plugs, you didn’t thread the leads through the hole on the lugs for both the ground and hot lead. Instead, you just pre-tinned the entire lug and just soldered the leads on top. Is there any audible or durability difference by just soldering straight to the lug instead of looping the lead through the hole on the lugs? Thanks!
Yes. J Standard dictated by IPC class 3 says the pre tinned wire should go through the hole like a z. Don't double back on itself.
what are the storage units up above your bench?
Just small components organizers, you can get them on Amazon
Interesting that you don’t push the wire through the hole in the lug on the SP400. What is the reason for that? I go back and forth on that myself and am not sure which way is better.
There’s more than one way you could do it, I typically stay away from doing this especially in a DIY tutorial because many practitioners who are inexperienced will push it through and not cut off the excess behind the lug and end up shorting the center conductor to ground because they’ll just hit the back of the housing with the wire that comes through. In this context, the way I showed it, is no more or less reliable.
Hi Rig Dr! I have a question. Does it matter what cable side you solder to the pancake plugs? Does it have to be on both sides te same, like (in) sleeved one on the right en non-sleeved left, (out) also sleeved one right and non-sleeved left?
If you're using a coaxial cable, both sides are soldered the same. Tip to Tip, Sleeve to Sleeve. The cables are assembled 1:1 on both sides.
Do SP500 and SP400 have different dimensions other than the diameter?
No, the exterior dimensions are identical. Only the SP600 is larger.
does the diameter of the cables affect the sound output?
Depends, are you talking about outer diameter or the inner diameter of the center conductor. There can be some influence, yes - but it depends on other factors too. You can have small diameter cables that are low capacitance - George L is a good example of that.
Mason,
Do you know of any low profile trs connectors like straight square plugs? I know trs square plug SP550-S is low profile, but it is right angle...and I'm using an boss es8...if i did use the sp550-S, it would block the rest of the es8 control inputs...but that is fine, since I'm currently not using them. Also, which trs cable would you recommend for the SP550-S
thanks for the help!
I used to use Switchcraft 1/4" stereo jacks and replace the housing with the 380 casing.
Hey Great Video as usual. I plan on getting a bunch of the SP400s I saw them AGES AGO and thought they were wicked. I have a question. Is it possible to use an XLR cable to make patch cables and to also use it as an instrument cable? Any pros or cons?
Sure you can - you just need to wire it like you would a directional cable, with the shield connected on the output side, and the shield cut away on the input side of the cable. Depends if you like the sound more than anything.
@@VertexEffectsInc I'm gonna try it. THANKS A MIL for your quick response...
🙏🙏🙏 I hope we earned your subscription
@@VertexEffectsInc Been a subscriber from AGES AGO... Get channel. Keep up the good work...
Paul Amar 🙏🙏🙏
Mason, is soldering essentially hot gluing, but with metal?
I guess there is some cross over...hahahaha.
Don’t pre-tin the entire length of the shielding/grounding wire or in my opinion at all. Doing so will restrict any natural flexing the shielding wire has and will likely fracture the joint. Look at factory cables, they allow a certain length of shielded copper wire to stay exposed (not shrouded in solder) specifically for flexing.
You can watch this yourself by unscrewing the jack sleeve and flexing the end of the jack back and forth; you will see the copper wire move. If you make that joint 100% solid, it will snap the minute a large stress is induced on it.
Following these instructions right now ! Noticing volume loss with some of them . Must be a bad solider joint?
Whats the cable you used?
@@VertexEffectsInc mogami 2319. The folks on paddleboard’s of doom helped me out.
@@Peter-em7wl you probably left on the conductive plastic around the center conductor.
Love these. However I always have to nudge the ground lug up a bit from the housing and most of the time the solder doesn’t stick on it like the hot lead lug. This is for the pancake lug. Is there any specific solder you use that works best with these plugs? I’m using Kester Silver solder.
I've done quite a few of these and I've had good luck with Kester 63/37, but I think Mason recommends Kester 60/40. Also, if you are having trouble with the solder binding to the ground lug you probably don't have it hot enough. The ground lug will usually be harder to heat up because there is more material that acts like a heat sink. Good luck!
A lot of times, the problem is that you don’t have enough surface area of the iron touching the lug, and as a result their won’t be a lot of heat transfer. Instead of coming down the straight on top the lug, try coming in at an angle or get a tip with more surface area.
Michael yeah I have a temp control on my iron and it’s like 700 degrees Fahrenheit lol
Vertex Effects true! I have like a pencil tip on my iron so I’ll switch it up to see if that makes it better
You can try it from the side where you could get more heat transfer, without seeing your technique it’s hard for me to evaluate it. But feel free to send me a video and I can do my best.
I have made some patch cables using Mogami 2319 and sp5 cables. The tip to tip and sleeve to sleeve read 0ohms using a multimeter, however when I check my tip to sleeve I get readings of 300ohms to 10kohms depending on the cable, I am wondering if this is an issue?
You probably didn't remove the conductive plastic and you have a resistive load.
@@VertexEffectsInc thank you! You were correct. I can’t believe I missed that step.
So I watch this and then sit down to make cables. I finish my first cable and... I forgot the screw on plug sleeve for the SPS4 end.
Here's a tip from what I just learned: if you're making straight plug to pancake end patches, do the straight plug end first. This way if you forget the sleeve, the other end of the cable is still open to slide it on!
Also my god is this tedious work.
Good call! I still make this mistake from time to time ;)
Is it possible to use the square plugs with George L’s cable? I’m having trouble sorting the dimensions of these different parts. Great tutorial!
.155 George L's will fit into the SP400 but the GL's are difficult to prep properly for soldering because of how they're made.
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks for the reply. I’ve been learning a lot from your channel.
I also really liked the Lava Tightrope in your cable shootout. Are those any easier to work with than the George L’s?
@@StephenMougin Yes, much!
What is your main preference? 2319 or 2314 now? Looks like 2314 has less capacitance. Is it equally as reliable? Thanks for the tutorial!
2314 seems to be the better choice. Make sure to use the SP5 or SP500 to fit the thicker cable
For a switcher, 2314 is preferable because it’s smaller and creates a little bit easier routing. Without a switcher 2319 is my preference. There is a capacitance difference but it is nominal. This is especially true if you’re using high-quality input and output buffers.