Thanks! I usually work at 700 Fahrenheit for plugs of this size. I drop down to 650 if I'm doing 1/8" stuff or other small parts, or if I'm getting too much shrinkback on the conductor insulation..
Darn.. No strain relief. Had no clue it didn't have it when I ordered, because all their other connectors have it. I need to disconnect or hanging off my board to connect to a female end on a TRS cable, but without strain relief it's just going to be too weak. I had some slightly thicker cable that I tried to jam in there because it would be tighter in the oval, but I had to shave it down as I was trying to fit the oval bit back over the connector while putting it together. But after fidgeting with it forever, I think I almost had it, but then I broke the wire going to the ring tab. 😢 I was practically getting strain relief from my scheme play the last it failed LOL
I'm trying to do insert cables for my pedalboard and though it seems well done, I have a hum noise, much like a bad ground noise. I tried lowering iron temp, and uping it and try to solder faster. I'm not able to do quality cables no matter what I do. What could be the reason? Beginner soldering here.
If you'd prefer a zip cable, I don't see why that wouldn't be the best option for your applications. I've never used the 2528 personally, but it looks like a great fit for the SPS7-S.
I made a bunch of cables and had a terrible time trying to strip in the inside cable, what size AWG and pliers are you using to not lose strands of copper?
Usually the interior leads on the Mogami W2314 (used in this video) can be stripped pretty cleanly with a 22AWG setting. Other kinds of cable may be a larger 20AWG lead, however, and if you're doing smaller multi-lead cable, you might need to use the smaller 24AWG setting instead. If you lose a couple strands here or there it's not the end of the world, but if you're losing more than 40% of your copper you may need to use a larger setting or replace your stripping tool (dull cutting surfaces can cause a lot of issues). I currently use a simple V-notch wire strip tool which may not be for everyone, but it's what's most comfortable for me.
You do great work. Unfortunately the insulator on these plugs melt within the range of most solder flow in my experience. I've tried it all the way down to the point to where the solder doesn't flow, as you're actually trying to heat the metal with the iron and let the solder flow, thus making a true electrical connection. I've occurred many bad (cold) connections trying, and in essence wasting a lot of money. I would advise clients who tour to default to other TRS 1/4" with proper standoffs for TIP.
The Squareplug products are great for many applications, but may not be for every purpose. It sounds like you may want to try a different solder tip, temperature setting, or type of solder. There might be some slight melting of the insulation around solder points, but there shouldn't be a lot, and certainly not enough to damage the connector itself. I'm sorry to hear this didn't work for your application, and fortunately, as you stated, there are plenty of other plug options if the SPS-7S isn't for you. Thanks for watching and reporting your experience as well!
I ran into a similar issue. I have been soldering for a long time and after having a few short on the tip and ring assembling them for a friend I came and checked Google to see if anybody else had that issue. I assembled in a very similar way to the video and apply only as much heat as possible. Out of 22 of these plugs six of the TRS cable version (SPS6) and about 60 solder connections total The only ones I had issue with were the SPS7 connectors(I had no issues with these even though they're the same plug and different shell). And there were a lot of other square plug brand connectors in the board. I wonder if there was a run of connectors with poor insulators.
Thanks so much for this video! Subscribed.
you’re a legend! thank you for this!
Thank you so much for this! Just curious, how hot do you have your iron in this video?
Thanks! I usually work at 700 Fahrenheit for plugs of this size. I drop down to 650 if I'm doing 1/8" stuff or other small parts, or if I'm getting too much shrinkback on the conductor insulation..
Darn.. No strain relief. Had no clue it didn't have it when I ordered, because all their other connectors have it.
I need to disconnect or hanging off my board to connect to a female end on a TRS cable, but without strain relief it's just going to be too weak.
I had some slightly thicker cable that I tried to jam in there because it would be tighter in the oval, but I had to shave it down as I was trying to fit the oval bit back over the connector while putting it together. But after fidgeting with it forever, I think I almost had it, but then I broke the wire going to the ring tab. 😢
I was practically getting strain relief from my scheme play the last it failed LOL
I'm trying to do insert cables for my pedalboard and though it seems well done, I have a hum noise, much like a bad ground noise. I tried lowering iron temp, and uping it and try to solder faster. I'm not able to do quality cables no matter what I do. What could be the reason? Beginner soldering here.
I've been advised to use these with 2528 instead for SPS7S TRS to dual SP500 TS cables. Do you see any issues with that?
If you'd prefer a zip cable, I don't see why that wouldn't be the best option for your applications. I've never used the 2528 personally, but it looks like a great fit for the SPS7-S.
I made a bunch of cables and had a terrible time trying to strip in the inside cable, what size AWG and pliers are you using to not lose strands of copper?
Usually the interior leads on the Mogami W2314 (used in this video) can be stripped pretty cleanly with a 22AWG setting. Other kinds of cable may be a larger 20AWG lead, however, and if you're doing smaller multi-lead cable, you might need to use the smaller 24AWG setting instead. If you lose a couple strands here or there it's not the end of the world, but if you're losing more than 40% of your copper you may need to use a larger setting or replace your stripping tool (dull cutting surfaces can cause a lot of issues). I currently use a simple V-notch wire strip tool which may not be for everyone, but it's what's most comfortable for me.
will these work with 2319? I cant seem to get hold of 2314 in the uk.
It is not Ideal for 2319. I have shipped to Europe before. Shoot a message sometime at alphatone.com
You do great work. Unfortunately the insulator on these plugs melt within the range of most solder flow in my experience. I've tried it all the way down to the point to where the solder doesn't flow, as you're actually trying to heat the metal with the iron and let the solder flow, thus making a true electrical connection. I've occurred many bad (cold) connections trying, and in essence wasting a lot of money. I would advise clients who tour to default to other TRS 1/4" with proper standoffs for TIP.
The Squareplug products are great for many applications, but may not be for every purpose. It sounds like you may want to try a different solder tip, temperature setting, or type of solder. There might be some slight melting of the insulation around solder points, but there shouldn't be a lot, and certainly not enough to damage the connector itself. I'm sorry to hear this didn't work for your application, and fortunately, as you stated, there are plenty of other plug options if the SPS-7S isn't for you. Thanks for watching and reporting your experience as well!
I ran into a similar issue. I have been soldering for a long time and after having a few short on the tip and ring assembling them for a friend I came and checked Google to see if anybody else had that issue. I assembled in a very similar way to the video and apply only as much heat as possible. Out of 22 of these plugs six of the TRS cable version (SPS6) and about 60 solder connections total The only ones I had issue with were the SPS7 connectors(I had no issues with these even though they're the same plug and different shell). And there were a lot of other square plug brand connectors in the board. I wonder if there was a run of connectors with poor insulators.