Not shown in this video, but another very useful product for more aggressive cleaning and repair of a badly neglected soldering iron is sold as "tip tinner". You shouldn't need to use it regularly, only if your tip is so badly oxidized that the regular cleaning method shown in this video is insufficient.
Not all solders are flux core. Solders that don't have a flux core need to be used alongside flux. Using the wrong kind of flux will cause the wires to degrade quickly. Finally, always make sure your conductors have bright copper. If it's oxidized you're going to have trouble making the solder stick.
I only solder from time to time, and every time, I feel like I am learning all over again. I found your video to be the most helpful that I have ever watched. thank you
I am almost 80 years old. I’ve been doing exactly as you explained for years. This is the first time I’ve seen anyone explain the proper way to do soldering the correct way. Good job! Keep up the goofy work.
One tip that ive used for about 20 years is this: when youre done soldering for the day, shut off the iron snd use the residual heat to melt lots of solder covering the tip. Let it cool off and solidify. The next yime you turn on the iron, brush off the blob and your tip will be nicely tinned and virtially no oxidation will occur. I get literally *years* out of my tips by doing this.
Nice! 0:14 ...I use my DeWalt bag for my soldering stuff too. Great minds. Great tutorial. One thing that has helped me is adding a bit of electrical flux to my twists. A lot burns off, but the solder seeps and flows sooo much better. Just have to clean up the joint with some rubbing alcohol afterwards. Last thought, no matter how many times I've told myself to add the shrink tubing prior to twisting and soldering, I still forget. Keep up the good work.
THIS IS THE EXACT VIDEO I'VE BEEN NEEDING IN MY LIFE FOR THE PAST 20 YEARS!!!! I swear soldering two wires together seems like it should be as simple as tying your shoes, but I still needed someone to teach me that as well. BUY THIS MAN SOME TIM HORTON'S AND ANOTHER ROUND OF MAPLE'S FINEST!!!
I would add one more pro tip for making wires mesh together easier: straighten up the wire ends into two narrow "brooms", then push those brooms into each other before twisting them together. Also another solution for pointy tips is to use the edge cutters before putting insulation over, always remove the needles pointing out, your future fingers will thank you.
Decent video. I learned a lot of the proper soldering techniques from my father who was a Comms/Radio Op in the Korean War and a "HAM"/Amateur Radio operator with a Tech license. I was building/assembling many of my own electronics projects starting at 8 years old, LOL. The DIY HEATHKIT projects were a staple back then. I then learned even more from a husband & wife team who both work for NASA as soldering techs. Some of the protocols they have to follow and techniques they use are mindboggling. Also, learn to know WHEN you should SOLDER, and WHEN you should use CRIMP connections. Cheers
Excellent video. The two bits of advice that I got when I was struggling to learn soldering: "Heat the work, not the solder", which was shown nicely here. The other one is that the solder will tend to flow towards the heat source, which is why having the iron on the other side of the wire works so well, the solder will wick its way through the strands towards the iron.
Dude can solder better than I ever could. One point about electrical tape though: it works and can stick firmly, but you have to pre-stretch it to make it pliable enough and for the adhesive to stick properly. Cut the length of tape, grab it from both ends and slowly stretch it, it'll get finer and much more pliable that way. I don't know why this isn't taught more frequently, but I learned it years ago and it's the correct way to use electrical tape.
when I first learned to solder, it was from a lab worksheet in school. this explanation is miles better. the presentation with the cold weather makes an incredible difference in illustrating the key point
Have been soldering since I was about 8 years old, and professionally for 40 years. The methods you have shown here are absolutely correct. The only thing that is not is the use of a flame to shrink the heat shrink. This is frowned upon professionally for good reason. The flame has a tendency to char and burn the heat shrink because flames are too higher temperature. This can result in embrittlement of the heat shrink causing it to crack or split. The best temperature range to use is 200 to 250 degrees C dependent on the type of heat shrink used. The use of flames in some working environments is also prohibited due to the presence of flammable or combustible substances, especially when working on or making repairs on cars.
While I prefer a heat gun when shrinking heat shrink tubes I think he showed the problem of charring the heat shrink when using the edge of the flame. He did recommend using the blue part of the flame instead of the yellow tip and showed the difference it makes. While not the optimal way of heat shrinking it gives you an option when you haven't got a heat gun at hand.
I started soldering when I was about 10 years old. I'm 85 and still soldering. I've soldered with every type of device including a torch. While working as a Quality Assurance Rep. I was a certified soldering inspector. Having said all that, take my advice and never, ever attempt to solder anything without using flux.
You are right, half the time there is not enough flux inside the core & unless the wire is new it certainly wont be easy without flux. He did not mention anything about getting whatever you are going to solder properly clean either.
@@frommatorav1 flux does help with the flow of solder between wire strands. Even though most of the soldering I have done is with fresh cut and stripped wires, extra flux made soldering so much quicker and easier.
Good to see someone who uses a proper wire stripper! This whole video is a good start to learning proper technique for soldering a running splice between two stranded wires. Well done!
I just wanted to give you props for a fantastic video! Not just twist them but HOW to twist them. And showing what to do when soldered joints aren't picture perfect (like in most videos). The dose of realism, what to do/not do, and demonstrations of poor soldering technique vs correct - what a well made video. Excellent work!
You should make a video on how to properly solder PCBs. The wire tutorial was the best I've seen on YT tbh...but soldering/ de-soldering on a PCB would be extremely helpful
my very FIRST soldering iron was one I made myself in shop class. I took a rectangular cube of copper, using a saw I cut the rectangle into a triangle on one side and drilled a hole in the other, then had a rod piece of metal put into that and the other end I rammed into a wooden handle. TO use, you put the copper tip into a flame such as a stove top till it got hot, then soldered away, you literally had 20-30 secs of heat, I was doing this in my mums kitchen with my dad, and was running between the stove and the table soldering away.... of course this was not an ideal way to solder, nor would it work on delicate electronic components... but I learned a lot from that !
AMAZING PRESENTATION! Complete and concise in a really short time! I work in industrial electronics for almost 30 years now and I'm most likely going to have my trainees from the mechanical field watch this video.
Great tutorial. I've been soldering for a little over a decade now, but I like to revisit tutorials like these as a quick "re-certification" every now and then. One tip (no pun intended) I'd like to add doesn't apply to soldering technique, but more to preserving the wire's insulating cover. If you are using helping hands/spring claws like what you have in the video, cover the jaws with cut to size heat shrink tubing. This lessens the marring of the insulation and prevents it from being pierced from the jaws.
My electrical 1 class in college for auto repair told us almost none of this. Didn’t even make sure people knew they were working with lead, pretty sure i got a few good whiffs of the smoke before realizing the danger. I’ll be passing this video on, thank you for such a great video.
Been soldering for over 70 years. My current prefered method is to hold the solder against the joint, press the iron through the solder onto the joint, and then feed more solder from the other side. This ensures that almost all the flux flows into the joint. It also helps prevent overheating sensitive devices if the wires are dirty. This method is usually faster, too.
This is now my go-to vid i will be using to teach my preferred soldering method, you manage to explain EXACTLY the way i try to tell people when they want to have a go soldering, i hate pulling apart anything electrical to find a blacksmith did the prior repair.... A mentionable tip for soldering several wires running alongside in a harness situation is to offset the cuts and solder connections by the length of the connection so that if the heatshrink is breached it will be on the parallel wires insulation and not directly next to another join.... Precision and process is whats needed and this video is exactly that, Thankyou....
2 tips to add from my experience. 1: I normally put the iron under the wire rather than on top, heat rises, as well as better visual without the iron in the way 2: When your done soldering, while the wire is still hot, the wire's insulation will be soft around the joint. If you're quick, you can push the soft insulation closer to the solder joint and it'll cool and harden. This adds a little bit of strain relief, "smooths" the transition between insulation and solder, as well as makes it so your heat shrink doesn't have to be as long. on small wires, I've even gotten both sides to touch in the middle, completely covering the soldering joint (obviously still used heat shrink for a proper seal)
Great video. I had to learn proper soldering technique out of a book, and that just doesn't convey the nuances quite like seeing it in action. But the most helpful thing that book did say was something like "Do not use the iron to melt solder except to tin the tip. The iron is only for heating the joint, apply solder directly to the joint instead." Completely fixed my perspective on what exactly I was trying to do.
Just stumbled on this one! I've been soldering wires for 60+ years and I've always used the "wet sponge" method. I saw you use the copper mesh to clean the tip and had a flash of insight. There, by my kitchen sink, is a copper scrubber I've never used! Guess I found a use for it! 🤔
Solid tutorial, It helped me greatly. I don't believe I've found a tutorial on this platform (on any topic) that is as clear, concise, and succinct as this one, well done indeed. Thank you
Thanks so much for this! I've never been really shown how to solder properly and my tip kept getting stuck, I couldn't make the solder flow, it would bead up etc. I like that you spent the extra time actually showing what can go wrong and what not to do. I'm going to use this as my training for the next solder job!
🔥 *Excellent soldering guide!* Thanks for talking about why a clean tip is best and how-to, giving the X and V wire connection techniques, apply solder by wicking through the wires, and then verification (QA.) Also your parts list and recommendations are gold. You did all this efficiently and in an easy to understand format, in a fair amount of time 11 min.) _Bravo! Please keep up the great work._ 🎮
Proper physical splice (the X twist is my preferred, and I've done it enough that I can do it pretty quickly, even in place in my truck's engine compartment when I've had to), clean tip, liquid flux so that it wicks into the strands before applying solder and helps to more quickly pull the solder in, and my technique is HOT (405º C) and fast so that there's less time for heat to migrate into the insulation of the wire before you're done (almost a non issue regardless, when I use marine grade wire that has silicone insulation; which is my go-to every chance I get). I also prefer lead based solder but can use ROHS compliant solder if I have to (my job requires it). I often brag that my wire splices and tinning is among the best out there. Great video, and your methods are very similar to my own.
If your job requires RoHS, I hope that you have a dedicated iron, tip, cleaning pad, and other tools for that to prevent cross-contamination. You can fail inspection otherwise if they use an XRF gun or lead check swabs.
Totally agree on having a hot iron, I carry a simple 60w iron as it has the level of heat I need. Lower wattage irons are just not worth it for me, but good enough for people that are learning to solder as they can learn the techniques, then speed will come later with experience.
I have a hard time heating thick wires with a Milwaukee soldering iron. That was a super nice technique you showed us of using solder to increase the area of contact for heating the wires faster ! Thank you for your video !
While there is nothing wrong with twisting the wires first and then twisting them together I find the best joint is to actually splice the strands of the wires in to each other and then twist them, heat up the joint and solder. The problem with twisting already twisted wires together is even with tinned solder you are creating a much larger thermal mass that is harder to solder - particularly with larger gauge wire. It's also not as mechanically strong because wires that are twisted together like that have less surface area in contact with each other - so you need a longer joint to create enough twists.
Yep! IIRC fanning the cores, pressing them together, and then twisting them is the NASA approved way of splicing. Minimizes chances of sharp edges and ensures mechanical strength.
@@wydra9-1 can you provide a source for your NASA approved way of splicing? I am looking at nasa-std-87394a right now and not seeing your method mentioned. The standard i mention recommends a simple lap joint first for stranded wires.
When i was young and dumb i sanded down a near new tip to clean it... Solder never stuck to it again so i threw it in the bin box, Decided to dig it out to try repair it Didn't have much hope but with repeatedly drowning the tip in flux at high temperature and rubbing it on a block of solder it had a nice silver coating again, works great now!
the type of tip is also important, i got one from eBay once and was terrible. I thought i was terrible. Went to get one in a Walmart. It turned out to be really good and my technique was night and day.
Very good tutorial. "Do not paint the solder on the joint." This is what most noobs will try at first. Newbies don't appreciate that the solder must flow into the wire but won't unless the wire is hot.
Hi, Will. Very good video! Your technique is flawless and beautifully excecuted.. IMHO, one should never put away one's iron with a totally clean and dry tip. I have been soldering for over 50 years and I have found that I like the results (i.e. life of the soldering tip) much better if I thoroughly clean off the tip and then add just a bit of fresh solder just after turning off the iron. There will still be just enough heat to melt the solder, but it will cool off and solidify the solder leaving a protective coating on the tip. When I use it next, I just wipe away the melted solder from the tip and get on with the work at hand. I also do not twist the individual wires before soldering. I use the same technique that you do by holding the wires together at one end and twist them together. I feel like I get a better mechanical and electrical connection without tightly twisting the individual wires first.
I normally hold the iron on the bottom of the wire and add solder to the top. Heat rises, and the solder will melt down. I also gotta admit, I have used electrical tape in the past. A few times because I had no heat shrink, and a few times because I had it but forgot to apply it. And probably once because I was too lazy to get the heat gun out (also too afraid of lighters to keep a lighter nearby) This is a great tutorial. You explained what to do and what not to do perfectly!
@@frijitz001 yeah I guess maybe, but it still makes more sense to do it that way as the solder can melt down into the wire rather than having to melt sideways.
that was a good video... one suggestion I have is hold the soldering iron under the wire and touch the solder on the top side of the wire. Heat rises so the wire will heat quicker.
Thank you, all of your advice is very good. You mentioned automatic wire strippers at 4:29. They are wonderful and well worth the money. At 5:10, remember that you will usually have to slide on the heat shrink tubing before you twist the wires and apply solder. 1:00 The Hakko FX888 works well, but its controls are completely counterintuitive. Even though it only has two buttons, I can not change its temperature without rereading its instructions. You would not think that a company could make it all that difficult, but somehow they did. I prefer to set the iron at a very high temperature. If the iron is not quite hot enough, you will end up holding the soldering iron onto a heat sensitive component for a excessively long time waiting for the solder to melt. I have come to believe that a hotter iron is actually better for heat sensitive parts.
I never thought about the zip ties with electrical tape, thats genius! Great video and was worth watching all the way to the end just for the zip tie tip!
Two points: 1 - whilst automatic wire trimmers are very fast I prefer to use methods that allow me to manually remove the outer section, which I remove with a twisting action. This twists the wire without your natural oils getting on the wire, which reduces the chance of long term corrosion etc. 2 - lead free solder requires higher temperatures as you stated, so for beginners (who may not be quick at getting good flow) it might be advisable for them to use leaded solder when working with expensive or fragile components. Wires can very effectively transfer that heat far from the solder joint (as many of us know from holding those wires) 😂
Great video! One thing to improve your experience is to carry a mini torch lighter for the heat shrink tubing. It burns hotter so make sure you don't hold it in one spot for very long. But it works fast and no soot. Mine is one that has angle adjustment, so you can set it at a 45,90 or any angle you need to get harder to reach areas.
Excellent video. You remind me of my soldering instructor (long time ago). I like the way you progressed through the presentation covering just about everything.
Had to watch to see if it's actually the correct way. Im picky so ill score it a B- only because there is a few other steps and techniques that would make a nicer join. Having said that this definitely passes as a good enough join
excellent explanations. I always have trouble soldering but your explanation of the heat transfer and why you tin the iron first and how it increases the surface area contact makes so much sense. I'll be trying these techniques very soon on my next guitar build. Thanks for the video Will!
I'm just learning to do this , thanks for the vid. A little tip about the shrink wrap, if you use marine grade wrap it has a waterproof glue built into it giving a clean waterproof seal on top of the soldering. Although it doesn't come in any color except black!
If I use tape, I opt for the self fusing tape which is stretched when wrapping. It becomes one piece and the layers fuse together. It also replaces heat shrink tubing. I have a ball point pen I wrapped back in 1991 and it is still fused. It comes in 11 ft. rolls on a cardboard tube.There is a plastic separator on one side to keep the tape from becoming one lump.
I started getting much better at soldering by getting a proper weller station and brass sponge, and changing the tips. I like to use a chisel tip for most things, or a fine pencil tip for small motherboard stuff. Most of the wiring I do is guitar work.
it gotta be easy using a soldering iron that costs what a brazilian does in a whole month. try with a $10 one and see how it goes 😂 the amount of rage I've gone through
good video. i do use electrical tape for 90% of my soldering though, and no issues so far. the quality of the tape, the environment it will be in, and how you apply it, each matter.
Regarding wire splicing, the best method is a lineman's splice. You form a bend in both wires to hook the wires together, then you wrap each wire's hook around itself. When you add solder, you are cementing these hooks together. It is much stronger than laying wires alongside each other and wrapping them around. That method will work, but it is not as strong as a lineman's splice (the method NASA recommends).
Everyone was shocked how well I did soldering. I thought it was easy. That was years ago, and I didn't think I would use it as job path. Teacher was good at showing the right moves, and fit scales for how much to use for what, and what is good amount to "waste". I guess the people worse at soldering tried save it all and not lose anything, but ended up wasting more. Oh well... I don't exactly remember how it was, but I thought it was a joke. Cool video to be reminded of those classes.
Great tips! It may be wrong, but when heating thick wires or connections I'll hold the iron underneath so that more of the heat is transferred to the joint.
Definitely could have touched on flux. It will make heat transfer and soldering an almost instant process, but you do have to make sure you clean the wires properly. Good in depth video for beginners!
Why not put a drop of flux on the wires? I don't like heating the wires and applying soldier directly because I often melt the sheath on larger wires before the other side gets hot enough to melt solder. I put a drop of flux on the wires and gently use the iron to melt it in. Then I put solder on the tip of the iron and touch it to the wires and it instantly gets sucked up and flows everywhere the flux went. I actually get solder a mm or two up inside the sheathing doing it this way. And you can very accurately control how much solder you're using. But the main thing is it doesn't require holding the iron on the wires to heat them up, so there's a lot less heat transfer up the wires and into connectors. Idk, works for me.
Your method is absolutely correct. You want as little heat transfer as possible so as to not melt the insulators. Keep in mind also that this video only has brand new wires also, whereas in many applications, a wire repair will be performed on wires that may have been exposed to oxygen and are slightly dirty. Using a small brush to clean the copper and dabbing some flux on the twisted joint is quite literally the only way that I've been able to achieve good results in the field. Not sure why he didn't mention that method. Also I tend to place the tip underneath the joint if possible, so that heat rises, I can control the puddle of solder better, and the end result is typically as you described, solder flowing into the insulation slightly, without the added heat.
Practically speaking do both. And buy more/less aggressive rosin core fluxes in solder to cover more situations without the need for a separate bottle. With clean pretinned wire I’m not pulling out a bottle of flux. I’ve even found myself soldering 100’ in the air. If I don’t have enough flux in the solder I over feed solder so the flux pours out onto the wire then flick the excess solder off the tip. It’s just not practical to carry excess flux there. For a small spaces with poor access at the bench or dirty wires flux makes life easier and I’ll use it.
I never solder anything without adding flux & I do a lot of soldering. The missing flux & teaching people to use a lighter on heat shrink sleeve are what is terrible about this video. Oh yeah, & the lead free solder, hate the stuff.
I passed the iso9000 quality certification. The only way is to heat the wire from underneath and apply solder on top so the solder will flow over and into the strands.
I've been soldering for almost a decade and I still struggle with wires, I could use a refresher. Good bit of information. You've mastered the art of soldering wires but you need to work on wet sponge technique, bro. lol. wet sponge > brass sponge.
About the best sub-$500 iron I've used is the TS-100/101 with a 24V supply and the K-tip, you can get it for well under $150 and it has a ton of surface area for making good wire joints.
For automotive use, I always use lead solder. I also use a lash joint, which is the same twisting you use but I wrap the joint in a thin bare copper wire. If done properly, you can hang from a lash joint before it's soldered. I also use adhesive lined heat shrink, Napa sells a fantastic heat shrink I use daily
I've been soldering for 30 years and I approve of this video. That said, in most cases soldering is my last resort for splicing wires. If the joint is in a part of the wire that is regularly flexed or moved then there is a risk that the solder, because it is a harder metal than copper, will create a point over which the wire strands will bend and break, leading to outright failure or overheating, in current-carrying situations. My preference is always to replace the wire segment if possible, and if that's not an option then a mechanical connector like a crimped butt splice covered in heat shrink is my favorite. If it has to be solder then try to ensure that that the joint is protected from mechanical stresses, and that any flexing happens as far from the joint as possible. You can lightly bend the wire at the joint to see and feel where it bends and then apply a length of heat shrink to extend past the bend radius in either direction. A couple of layers might provide better strain relief.
thats one good quality tutorial. easy to digest no unnecesary information streight to the point with different variations that can be better suited for different users. great.
Man, wish I had this video years ago when I had to make a whole bunch of custom LED blinkers for an escape room. Great video, it will make a fine collection to my hobby playlist.
For joints like this, particularly in high-vibration environments, I cannot stress enough the importance of using adhesive-lined heatshrink for the most reliable possible joint.
Fantastic, Concise, and clear! I love it. That was a great use of 12 minutes of my time! I'm going to dive into your history, and see if i can find a similar primer about how to work with PCBs, which is a current project I'm learning on.
One important con-side of lead-free solder is that it is prone to fracture. If you solder any parts that experience lots of vibrations or temperature gradients, using leaded solder increases the probability of solder joints surviving longer time periods.
Definitely a great video, my only input to the video is when you said something about laying the wires on top of each other (which is called a Lap Solder) how they are weak. I disagree, because in MIL spec soldering Class III (IPC-A-610 and J-STD) This is an approved method on splicing wires and is a very strong connection. I personally use this method (only when needed, they don't really like splicing at all) when building wire harnesses for military purpose. Although the method that you are using is very superior. That's all.
My recommendation instead of that kind of lighter is a small, portable, single jet butane lighter/torch. They sell very small ones, similar to what you'd use for lighting a cigar, but with only a single jet so not as powerful. They ignite instantly, are extremely small and easy to wield and light with only one hand, and give you excellent control over the application of heat given their reliably defined torch-style flame (it's unaffected by wind or gravity, so you can use it upside down, for example, and is always the same shape). Plus they're refillable. Just make sure you get one with only one jet - most cigar lighters or windproof jet lighters are thicker and put out way too much heat. They're often ignited with a thumb rather than a index finger, giving you better control than those trigger-style lighters... the one I have is toggleable and doesn't even turn off when I let go (mildly unsafe, but useful). I have butane lighters of all types, as well as a fancy hot air rework station, and everything else under the sun... but I use my single-jet butane torch 99% of the time.
Came here thinking I'd probably not learn anything new, but wanted to still see id I would and wasn't dissapointed! Definitely will be using the V-style twist in the future. Also, switching out the sponge that came with the soldering station just dropped pretty far down on my list of things to buy 😄 that's what I was taught to use 15 years ago, and I wasn't sure if that's completely ancient history by now, but I take it that it's good enough, even if not ideal.
Great video. I have been soldering for decades. I prefer a chisel tip more heated surface area. I only break out the point one when I’m doing something very small.
Excellent discussion . . . Bravo . . . I might suggest also discussing the conductivity of different solder metals. Silver is superior as it is closest to copper in conductivity. Lead is not bad but its not as conductive as copper or silver. (note that silver solder is usually a combination of tin and silver).
Try applying flux onto the surface to be soldered before soldering. Also leave a thick amount of solder on the tip before storing the soldering iron. Next time you use the soldering iron all you have to do is wipe off the solder on the tip after it's up to temp.
The way I typically heat up the heat shrink is with the thick part of the rod of the soldering iron (not actually touching it, just getting very close, ideally from below). No risk of ugly black parts from the flame.
A tangential / backup idea: but if you have to join wire and can't solder them, consider using the Western Union linesman's splice. It's a clever way of twisting wire together to form a mechanically strong connection. The resulting joined wires can be soldered together for extra strength, but soldering isn't absolutely required.
As a certified solderer, I used the clips of my helping hands, as a heat sink so the solder does not wick too far up the wire. They will also protect any heat shrink tubing from premature shrinking. For my solder cleaning I only used filtered water from a room temperature container. Another thought. Does the Hakko solder station remind you of something designed by Playskool?
Thank you for the helpful methods of soldering. When I first learned to solder, I was instructed to tin each wire end first, and then join them. What are your thoughts on this?
Great video, I learnt a few new things and being self-taught it reinforced things I've apparently been doing correctly. I didn't know about the trick with heat shrink and a lighter (in the blue part of the flame), what a game changer!
Great video, "THANK YOU!". Here's a tip; When joining 2 wire ends together, spread the strands apart, interweave the spread ends, then twist the 2 ends together joining the 2 wires. That is mechanically stronger &, IMO, makes a better solder joint.
Love the pinecil, it melts solder faster than my huge yihua soldering station. I've also found the solder varies a lot, had some aliexpress solder that wouldn't stick to anything and looked dull. I bought some Kester solder and it works so much better, nice and shiny, flows freely and sticks to copper well. Both claim to be the same lead/tin rosin core composition
I usually prefer a butane soldering iron, I also fan out the stranded wires, push one fan through into the other, at about 60° to each other to start with, then twist around each other. It gives a nice even twist, intermeshing the two wires neatly. A great beginner's video nonetheless, I really enjoyed it. Thank you
Oh no, premature tube shrinkage! But seriously, I'm a beginner and this is probably the most thorough and methodical instructional video on wire soldering I've seen on UA-cam so far.
I always use flux core solder and additional flux on the bare wires first. I’ve always found that this flows way better. Especially when using the lead free stuff.
Not shown in this video, but another very useful product for more aggressive cleaning and repair of a badly neglected soldering iron is sold as "tip tinner". You shouldn't need to use it regularly, only if your tip is so badly oxidized that the regular cleaning method shown in this video is insufficient.
I tried heating up the wires and it just burned the plastic housing 😂
I use 220 sandpaper to clean the soldering iron tip and then coat it with fresh solder to prevent corrosion 👌
You can also dip the tip of your iron into some flux to clean the tip very effectively.
Not all solders are flux core. Solders that don't have a flux core need to be used alongside flux. Using the wrong kind of flux will cause the wires to degrade quickly. Finally, always make sure your conductors have bright copper. If it's oxidized you're going to have trouble making the solder stick.
I use a block of sal ammoniac for oxidized tips.
Really great tutorial! Thanks for showing common pitfalls.
I only solder from time to time, and every time, I feel like I am learning all over again. I found your video to be the most helpful that I have ever watched. thank you
Same here.
I was going to write exactly this. 👍
I was going to say what the other two guys said.
By the way, the photography of the process is flawless. Very easy to understand.
Some say you shouldn’t clean the tip before switching off 11:39
I am almost 80 years old. I’ve been doing exactly as you explained for years. This is the first time I’ve seen anyone explain the proper way to do soldering the correct way. Good job! Keep up the goofy work.
also the zip ties? :))
because nobody should explain such simple and common sense thing!
One tip that ive used for about 20 years is this: when youre done soldering for the day, shut off the iron snd use the residual heat to melt lots of solder covering the tip. Let it cool off and solidify.
The next yime you turn on the iron, brush off the blob and your tip will be nicely tinned and virtially no oxidation will occur.
I get literally *years* out of my tips by doing this.
Neato
So basically I should be seeing a big blob on the tip of the soldering iron any time I’m not actively using it?
@@HyperionBadger yepp more or less, you always want a tinned tip when you turn it off.
Great to know I'm not the only one doing this!
Originally thought you'd used one soldering tip for 20 years and was flabbergasted.
Step One...Put heatshrink on BEFORE you solder the wires.
Covered @11:09
I've been an electrical engineer for over 10 years. . . Still forget to put the damn heat shrink on until it's joined nicely of course!
Was wondering if someone would get round to this. Yes, but back it away from the joint as was explained in the video.
Excellent! Thank you!
One of the most helpful soldering instructions I ever received was:
"The solder flows towards the heat."
Yep. When you're uneducated, the intuitive thing is to try to use it as if it were glue.
Nice! 0:14 ...I use my DeWalt bag for my soldering stuff too. Great minds. Great tutorial.
One thing that has helped me is adding a bit of electrical flux to my twists. A lot burns off, but the solder seeps and flows sooo much better. Just have to clean up the joint with some rubbing alcohol afterwards.
Last thought, no matter how many times I've told myself to add the shrink tubing prior to twisting and soldering, I still forget.
Keep up the good work.
Excellent video. i have struggled with soldering for years this solved all of my problems. The last thing we want is "premature shrinkage".
keeping your "tip" clean is also very important
You're gonna wanna stay out of lake washington in the coming months. For uh.. solder joint integrity or w/e.
We all experience shrinkage after a good solder job!
THIS IS THE EXACT VIDEO I'VE BEEN NEEDING IN MY LIFE FOR THE PAST 20 YEARS!!!! I swear soldering two wires together seems like it should be as simple as tying your shoes, but I still needed someone to teach me that as well. BUY THIS MAN SOME TIM HORTON'S AND ANOTHER ROUND OF MAPLE'S FINEST!!!
I would add one more pro tip for making wires mesh together easier: straighten up the wire ends into two narrow "brooms", then push those brooms into each other before twisting them together. Also another solution for pointy tips is to use the edge cutters before putting insulation over, always remove the needles pointing out, your future fingers will thank you.
Decent video. I learned a lot of the proper soldering techniques from my father who was a Comms/Radio Op in the Korean War and a "HAM"/Amateur Radio operator with a Tech license. I was building/assembling many of my own electronics projects starting at 8 years old, LOL. The DIY HEATHKIT projects were a staple back then.
I then learned even more from a husband & wife team who both work for NASA as soldering techs. Some of the protocols they have to follow and techniques they use are mindboggling.
Also, learn to know WHEN you should SOLDER, and WHEN you should use CRIMP connections.
Cheers
Excellent video. The two bits of advice that I got when I was struggling to learn soldering: "Heat the work, not the solder", which was shown nicely here. The other one is that the solder will tend to flow towards the heat source, which is why having the iron on the other side of the wire works so well, the solder will wick its way through the strands towards the iron.
Dude can solder better than I ever could. One point about electrical tape though: it works and can stick firmly, but you have to pre-stretch it to make it pliable enough and for the adhesive to stick properly. Cut the length of tape, grab it from both ends and slowly stretch it, it'll get finer and much more pliable that way. I don't know why this isn't taught more frequently, but I learned it years ago and it's the correct way to use electrical tape.
when I first learned to solder, it was from a lab worksheet in school. this explanation is miles better. the presentation with the cold weather makes an incredible difference in illustrating the key point
Have been soldering since I was about 8 years old, and professionally for 40 years. The methods you have shown here are absolutely correct.
The only thing that is not is the use of a flame to shrink the heat shrink. This is frowned upon professionally for good reason. The flame has a tendency to char and burn the heat shrink because flames are too higher temperature. This can result in embrittlement of the heat shrink causing it to crack or split. The best temperature range to use is 200 to 250 degrees C dependent on the type of heat shrink used. The use of flames in some working environments is also prohibited due to the presence of flammable or combustible substances, especially when working on or making repairs on cars.
While I prefer a heat gun when shrinking heat shrink tubes I think he showed the problem of charring the heat shrink when using the edge of the flame. He did recommend using the blue part of the flame instead of the yellow tip and showed the difference it makes. While not the optimal way of heat shrinking it gives you an option when you haven't got a heat gun at hand.
I started soldering when I was about 10 years old. I'm 85 and still soldering. I've soldered with every type of device including a torch. While working as a Quality Assurance Rep. I was a certified soldering inspector. Having said all that, take my advice and never, ever attempt to solder anything without using flux.
You are right, half the time there is not enough flux inside the core & unless the wire is new it certainly wont be easy without flux. He did not mention anything about getting whatever you are going to solder properly clean either.
His example is two newly stripped wires, which wouldn't need cleaned in nearly every case.
@@frommatorav1
But did he clean his hands to remove excess natural oils etc!?
For long term reliable joints cleanliness is a good thing.
@@frommatorav1 flux does help with the flow of solder between wire strands. Even though most of the soldering I have done is with fresh cut and stripped wires, extra flux made soldering so much quicker and easier.
@sixter4157 No doubt flux is better. I was just saying brand new stripped wire didn't need cleaned.
Good to see someone who uses a proper wire stripper! This whole video is a good start to learning proper technique for soldering a running splice between two stranded wires. Well done!
I just wanted to give you props for a fantastic video! Not just twist them but HOW to twist them. And showing what to do when soldered joints aren't picture perfect (like in most videos). The dose of realism, what to do/not do, and demonstrations of poor soldering technique vs correct - what a well made video. Excellent work!
You should make a video on how to properly solder PCBs. The wire tutorial was the best I've seen on YT tbh...but soldering/ de-soldering on a PCB would be extremely helpful
my very FIRST soldering iron was one I made myself in shop class. I took a rectangular cube of copper, using a saw I cut the rectangle into a triangle on one side and drilled a hole in the other, then had a rod piece of metal put into that and the other end I rammed into a wooden handle. TO use, you put the copper tip into a flame such as a stove top till it got hot, then soldered away, you literally had 20-30 secs of heat, I was doing this in my mums kitchen with my dad, and was running between the stove and the table soldering away.... of course this was not an ideal way to solder, nor would it work on delicate electronic components... but I learned a lot from that !
AMAZING PRESENTATION! Complete and concise in a really short time!
I work in industrial electronics for almost 30 years now and I'm most likely going to have my trainees from the mechanical field watch this video.
This is by far and away the best soldering tutorial i have ever seen. well done
I was trained to solder in the Navy. I'm glad to see that I was trained correctly ;)
Great tutorial. I've been soldering for a little over a decade now, but I like to revisit tutorials like these as a quick "re-certification" every now and then.
One tip (no pun intended) I'd like to add doesn't apply to soldering technique, but more to preserving the wire's insulating cover. If you are using helping hands/spring claws like what you have in the video, cover the jaws with cut to size heat shrink tubing. This lessens the marring of the insulation and prevents it from being pierced from the jaws.
My electrical 1 class in college for auto repair told us almost none of this. Didn’t even make sure people knew they were working with lead, pretty sure i got a few good whiffs of the smoke before realizing the danger. I’ll be passing this video on, thank you for such a great video.
Been soldering for over 70 years. My current prefered method is to hold the solder against the joint, press the iron through the solder onto the joint, and then feed more solder from the other side. This ensures that almost all the flux flows into the joint. It also helps prevent overheating sensitive devices if the wires are dirty. This method is usually faster, too.
This is now my go-to vid i will be using to teach my preferred soldering method, you manage to explain EXACTLY the way i try to tell people when they want to have a go soldering, i hate pulling apart anything electrical to find a blacksmith did the prior repair....
A mentionable tip for soldering several wires running alongside in a harness situation is to offset the cuts and solder connections by the length of the connection so that if the heatshrink is breached it will be on the parallel wires insulation and not directly next to another join....
Precision and process is whats needed and this video is exactly that, Thankyou....
2 tips to add from my experience.
1: I normally put the iron under the wire rather than on top, heat rises, as well as better visual without the iron in the way
2: When your done soldering, while the wire is still hot, the wire's insulation will be soft around the joint. If you're quick, you can push the soft insulation closer to the solder joint and it'll cool and harden. This adds a little bit of strain relief, "smooths" the transition between insulation and solder, as well as makes it so your heat shrink doesn't have to be as long. on small wires, I've even gotten both sides to touch in the middle, completely covering the soldering joint (obviously still used heat shrink for a proper seal)
Great video. I had to learn proper soldering technique out of a book, and that just doesn't convey the nuances quite like seeing it in action. But the most helpful thing that book did say was something like "Do not use the iron to melt solder except to tin the tip. The iron is only for heating the joint, apply solder directly to the joint instead."
Completely fixed my perspective on what exactly I was trying to do.
Just stumbled on this one! I've been soldering wires for 60+ years and I've always used the "wet sponge" method. I saw you use the copper mesh to clean the tip and had a flash of insight. There, by my kitchen sink, is a copper scrubber I've never used! Guess I found a use for it! 🤔
I find the sponge to be a lot more thorough for cleaning compared to copper mesh. Only downside is that I have to run to the sink first to get it wet.
Solid tutorial, It helped me greatly. I don't believe I've found a tutorial on this platform (on any topic) that is as clear, concise, and succinct as this one, well done indeed. Thank you
Thanks so much for this! I've never been really shown how to solder properly and my tip kept getting stuck, I couldn't make the solder flow, it would bead up etc. I like that you spent the extra time actually showing what can go wrong and what not to do. I'm going to use this as my training for the next solder job!
🔥 *Excellent soldering guide!* Thanks for talking about why a clean tip is best and how-to, giving the X and V wire connection techniques, apply solder by wicking through the wires, and then verification (QA.) Also your parts list and recommendations are gold. You did all this efficiently and in an easy to understand format, in a fair amount of time 11 min.) _Bravo! Please keep up the great work._ 🎮
Great instructional video, especially showing and telling aspects of your technique that I would not have noticed as important factors.
Proper physical splice (the X twist is my preferred, and I've done it enough that I can do it pretty quickly, even in place in my truck's engine compartment when I've had to), clean tip, liquid flux so that it wicks into the strands before applying solder and helps to more quickly pull the solder in, and my technique is HOT (405º C) and fast so that there's less time for heat to migrate into the insulation of the wire before you're done (almost a non issue regardless, when I use marine grade wire that has silicone insulation; which is my go-to every chance I get). I also prefer lead based solder but can use ROHS compliant solder if I have to (my job requires it).
I often brag that my wire splices and tinning is among the best out there.
Great video, and your methods are very similar to my own.
If your job requires RoHS, I hope that you have a dedicated iron, tip, cleaning pad, and other tools for that to prevent cross-contamination. You can fail inspection otherwise if they use an XRF gun or lead check swabs.
@@KevinT3141 we always do
Only one soldering station is non ROHS at my work and it's kept separate from the others
Totally agree on having a hot iron, I carry a simple 60w iron as it has the level of heat I need. Lower wattage irons are just not worth it for me, but good enough for people that are learning to solder as they can learn the techniques, then speed will come later with experience.
I have a hard time heating thick wires with a Milwaukee soldering iron. That was a super nice technique you showed us of using solder to increase the area of contact for heating the wires faster ! Thank you for your video !
While there is nothing wrong with twisting the wires first and then twisting them together I find the best joint is to actually splice the strands of the wires in to each other and then twist them, heat up the joint and solder. The problem with twisting already twisted wires together is even with tinned solder you are creating a much larger thermal mass that is harder to solder - particularly with larger gauge wire. It's also not as mechanically strong because wires that are twisted together like that have less surface area in contact with each other - so you need a longer joint to create enough twists.
Yep! IIRC fanning the cores, pressing them together, and then twisting them is the NASA approved way of splicing. Minimizes chances of sharp edges and ensures mechanical strength.
@@wydra9-1 can you provide a source for your NASA approved way of splicing? I am looking at nasa-std-87394a right now and not seeing your method mentioned. The standard i mention recommends a simple lap joint first for stranded wires.
@@wydra9-1 NASA splices wires? I think not. Do you have proof? I'd love to see it.
When i was young and dumb i sanded down a near new tip to clean it... Solder never stuck to it again so i threw it in the bin box,
Decided to dig it out to try repair it
Didn't have much hope but with repeatedly drowning the tip in flux at high temperature and rubbing it on a block of solder it had a nice silver coating again, works great now!
the type of tip is also important, i got one from eBay once and was terrible. I thought i was terrible. Went to get one in a Walmart. It turned out to be really good and my technique was night and day.
Very good tutorial. "Do not paint the solder on the joint." This is what most noobs will try at first.
Newbies don't appreciate that the solder must flow into the wire but won't unless the wire is hot.
Hi, Will. Very good video! Your technique is flawless and beautifully excecuted..
IMHO, one should never put away one's iron with a totally clean and dry tip. I have been soldering for over 50 years and I have found that I like the results (i.e. life of the soldering tip) much better if I thoroughly clean off the tip and then add just a bit of fresh solder just after turning off the iron. There will still be just enough heat to melt the solder, but it will cool off and solidify the solder leaving a protective coating on the tip. When I use it next, I just wipe away the melted solder from the tip and get on with the work at hand.
I also do not twist the individual wires before soldering. I use the same technique that you do by holding the wires together at one end and twist them together. I feel like I get a better mechanical and electrical connection without tightly twisting the individual wires first.
I normally hold the iron on the bottom of the wire and add solder to the top. Heat rises, and the solder will melt down.
I also gotta admit, I have used electrical tape in the past. A few times because I had no heat shrink, and a few times because I had it but forgot to apply it. And probably once because I was too lazy to get the heat gun out (also too afraid of lighters to keep a lighter nearby)
This is a great tutorial. You explained what to do and what not to do perfectly!
LOL! Heat does not rise in a wire. It spreads by conduction, not convection.
@@frijitz001 yeah I guess maybe, but it still makes more sense to do it that way as the solder can melt down into the wire rather than having to melt sideways.
that was a good video... one suggestion I have is hold the soldering iron under the wire and touch the solder on the top side of the wire. Heat rises so the wire will heat quicker.
Thank you, all of your advice is very good. You mentioned automatic wire strippers at 4:29. They are wonderful and well worth the money. At 5:10, remember that you will usually have to slide on the heat shrink tubing before you twist the wires and apply solder.
1:00 The Hakko FX888 works well, but its controls are completely counterintuitive. Even though it only has two buttons, I can not change its temperature without rereading its instructions. You would not think that a company could make it all that difficult, but somehow they did. I prefer to set the iron at a very high temperature. If the iron is not quite hot enough, you will end up holding the soldering iron onto a heat sensitive component for a excessively long time waiting for the solder to melt. I have come to believe that a hotter iron is actually better for heat sensitive parts.
I had hoped for something more advanced, but this is a very well done introductory video.
I never thought about the zip ties with electrical tape, thats genius! Great video and was worth watching all the way to the end just for the zip tie tip!
Two points:
1 - whilst automatic wire trimmers are very fast I prefer to use methods that allow me to manually remove the outer section, which I remove with a twisting action.
This twists the wire without your natural oils getting on the wire, which reduces the chance of long term corrosion etc.
2 - lead free solder requires higher temperatures as you stated, so for beginners (who may not be quick at getting good flow) it might be advisable for them to use leaded solder when working with expensive or fragile components.
Wires can very effectively transfer that heat far from the solder joint (as many of us know from holding those wires) 😂
Wearing nitrile gloves while working with leaded solder certainly doesn't hurt either. The V-shaped twist is slick, thanks for that! Good video!
I tend to dip the wires in a bit of flux as well to help give a flawless joint by burning away any contaminants
Great video! One thing to improve your experience is to carry a mini torch lighter for the heat shrink tubing. It burns hotter so make sure you don't hold it in one spot for very long. But it works fast and no soot. Mine is one that has angle adjustment, so you can set it at a 45,90 or any angle you need to get harder to reach areas.
Excellent video. You remind me of my soldering instructor (long time ago). I like the way you progressed through the presentation covering just about everything.
Had to watch to see if it's actually the correct way. Im picky so ill score it a B- only because there is a few other steps and techniques that would make a nicer join. Having said that this definitely passes as a good enough join
excellent explanations. I always have trouble soldering but your explanation of the heat transfer and why you tin the iron first and how it increases the surface area contact makes so much sense. I'll be trying these techniques very soon on my next guitar build. Thanks for the video Will!
I'm just learning to do this , thanks for the vid. A little tip about the shrink wrap, if you use marine grade wrap it has a waterproof glue built into it giving a clean waterproof seal on top of the soldering. Although it doesn't come in any color except black!
If I use tape, I opt for the self fusing tape which is stretched when wrapping. It becomes one piece and the layers fuse together. It also replaces heat shrink tubing. I have a ball point pen I wrapped back in 1991 and it is still fused. It comes in 11 ft. rolls on a cardboard tube.There is a plastic separator on one side to keep the tape from becoming one lump.
I started getting much better at soldering by getting a proper weller station and brass sponge, and changing the tips. I like to use a chisel tip for most things, or a fine pencil tip for small motherboard stuff. Most of the wiring I do is guitar work.
technique is important but be sure you dont buy garbage ass soldering iron and solders theres way too many of them available online :|
And offline too. In particular, avoid the Parkside “soldering station.” Don’t ask me how I know…
it gotta be easy using a soldering iron that costs what a brazilian does in a whole month. try with a $10 one and see how it goes 😂 the amount of rage I've gone through
I think this has always been my problem. Shitty soldering irons give me results like the thumbnail photo.
@@WalterMelonsI did it with a 100 pesos (1.90$) soldering iron technique is important
meh, you don’t need to spend very much at all either, especially if you don’t have to solder very often. My Chinese T12-956 ($60) has been amazing.
That was by far the best tutorial I've seen for this. Thank you!
good video. i do use electrical tape for 90% of my soldering though, and no issues so far. the quality of the tape, the environment it will be in, and how you apply it, each matter.
That was the best demonstration of effective soldering I have seen.
Regarding wire splicing, the best method is a lineman's splice. You form a bend in both wires to hook the wires together, then you wrap each wire's hook around itself. When you add solder, you are cementing these hooks together. It is much stronger than laying wires alongside each other and wrapping them around. That method will work, but it is not as strong as a lineman's splice (the method NASA recommends).
Everyone was shocked how well I did soldering. I thought it was easy. That was years ago, and I didn't think I would use it as job path.
Teacher was good at showing the right moves, and fit scales for how much to use for what, and what is good amount to "waste".
I guess the people worse at soldering tried save it all and not lose anything, but ended up wasting more. Oh well... I don't exactly remember how it was, but I thought it was a joke.
Cool video to be reminded of those classes.
This is good soldering advice. One other tip is to add some solder Flux liquid or paste directly onto the wire, it will help the solder flow better
Great tips! It may be wrong, but when heating thick wires or connections I'll hold the iron underneath so that more of the heat is transferred to the joint.
Definitely could have touched on flux. It will make heat transfer and soldering an almost instant process, but you do have to make sure you clean the wires properly. Good in depth video for beginners!
Exelent begginer staff. All the basic rules collected and demonstrated well. Thanks
Why not put a drop of flux on the wires? I don't like heating the wires and applying soldier directly because I often melt the sheath on larger wires before the other side gets hot enough to melt solder. I put a drop of flux on the wires and gently use the iron to melt it in. Then I put solder on the tip of the iron and touch it to the wires and it instantly gets sucked up and flows everywhere the flux went. I actually get solder a mm or two up inside the sheathing doing it this way. And you can very accurately control how much solder you're using. But the main thing is it doesn't require holding the iron on the wires to heat them up, so there's a lot less heat transfer up the wires and into connectors. Idk, works for me.
Your method is absolutely correct. You want as little heat transfer as possible so as to not melt the insulators. Keep in mind also that this video only has brand new wires also, whereas in many applications, a wire repair will be performed on wires that may have been exposed to oxygen and are slightly dirty. Using a small brush to clean the copper and dabbing some flux on the twisted joint is quite literally the only way that I've been able to achieve good results in the field. Not sure why he didn't mention that method. Also I tend to place the tip underneath the joint if possible, so that heat rises, I can control the puddle of solder better, and the end result is typically as you described, solder flowing into the insulation slightly, without the added heat.
A drop of flux? I cover that sucker with all the flux it can hold. Never had a problem.
Practically speaking do both. And buy more/less aggressive rosin core fluxes in solder to cover more situations without the need for a separate bottle.
With clean pretinned wire I’m not pulling out a bottle of flux. I’ve even found myself soldering 100’ in the air. If I don’t have enough flux in the solder I over feed solder so the flux pours out onto the wire then flick the excess solder off the tip. It’s just not practical to carry excess flux there.
For a small spaces with poor access at the bench or dirty wires flux makes life easier and I’ll use it.
I never solder anything without adding flux & I do a lot of soldering.
The missing flux & teaching people to use a lighter on heat shrink sleeve are what is terrible about this video.
Oh yeah, & the lead free solder, hate the stuff.
I passed the iso9000 quality certification. The only way is to heat the wire from underneath and apply solder on top so the solder will flow over and into the strands.
I've been soldering for almost a decade and I still struggle with wires, I could use a refresher. Good bit of information. You've mastered the art of soldering wires but you need to work on wet sponge technique, bro. lol. wet sponge > brass sponge.
I've seen quite a few tutorials on soldering and this is the best one i have ever seen! Thanks for the in-depth info!
flux paste was a game changer for me, the solder flows through the wire so much better
About the best sub-$500 iron I've used is the TS-100/101 with a 24V supply and the K-tip, you can get it for well under $150 and it has a ton of surface area for making good wire joints.
For automotive use, I always use lead solder. I also use a lash joint, which is the same twisting you use but I wrap the joint in a thin bare copper wire. If done properly, you can hang from a lash joint before it's soldered. I also use adhesive lined heat shrink, Napa sells a fantastic heat shrink I use daily
I've been soldering for 30 years and I approve of this video. That said, in most cases soldering is my last resort for splicing wires. If the joint is in a part of the wire that is regularly flexed or moved then there is a risk that the solder, because it is a harder metal than copper, will create a point over which the wire strands will bend and break, leading to outright failure or overheating, in current-carrying situations.
My preference is always to replace the wire segment if possible, and if that's not an option then a mechanical connector like a crimped butt splice covered in heat shrink is my favorite. If it has to be solder then try to ensure that that the joint is protected from mechanical stresses, and that any flexing happens as far from the joint as possible. You can lightly bend the wire at the joint to see and feel where it bends and then apply a length of heat shrink to extend past the bend radius in either direction. A couple of layers might provide better strain relief.
thats one good quality tutorial. easy to digest no unnecesary information streight to the point with different variations that can be better suited for different users. great.
Man, wish I had this video years ago when I had to make a whole bunch of custom LED blinkers for an escape room. Great video, it will make a fine collection to my hobby playlist.
For joints like this, particularly in high-vibration environments, I cannot stress enough the importance of using adhesive-lined heatshrink for the most reliable possible joint.
Fantastic, Concise, and clear! I love it. That was a great use of 12 minutes of my time! I'm going to dive into your history, and see if i can find a similar primer about how to work with PCBs, which is a current project I'm learning on.
One important con-side of lead-free solder is that it is prone to fracture. If you solder any parts that experience lots of vibrations or temperature gradients, using leaded solder increases the probability of solder joints surviving longer time periods.
Thats why I almost always butt splice on cars. Solder is cheaper in Lab making cool jumpers and test rigs
Definitely a great video, my only input to the video is when you said something about laying the wires on top of each other (which is called a Lap Solder) how they are weak. I disagree, because in MIL spec soldering Class III (IPC-A-610 and J-STD) This is an approved method on splicing wires and is a very strong connection. I personally use this method (only when needed, they don't really like splicing at all) when building wire harnesses for military purpose. Although the method that you are using is very superior. That's all.
Lap splice is also alowed in ipc-a-620, many methods are approved the main thing being to know which one to use depending on the situation!
My recommendation instead of that kind of lighter is a small, portable, single jet butane lighter/torch. They sell very small ones, similar to what you'd use for lighting a cigar, but with only a single jet so not as powerful. They ignite instantly, are extremely small and easy to wield and light with only one hand, and give you excellent control over the application of heat given their reliably defined torch-style flame (it's unaffected by wind or gravity, so you can use it upside down, for example, and is always the same shape). Plus they're refillable. Just make sure you get one with only one jet - most cigar lighters or windproof jet lighters are thicker and put out way too much heat. They're often ignited with a thumb rather than a index finger, giving you better control than those trigger-style lighters... the one I have is toggleable and doesn't even turn off when I let go (mildly unsafe, but useful).
I have butane lighters of all types, as well as a fancy hot air rework station, and everything else under the sun... but I use my single-jet butane torch 99% of the time.
Wow that’s one of the best soldering videos I have ever watched. Thank you so much.
Came here thinking I'd probably not learn anything new, but wanted to still see id I would and wasn't dissapointed! Definitely will be using the V-style twist in the future. Also, switching out the sponge that came with the soldering station just dropped pretty far down on my list of things to buy 😄 that's what I was taught to use 15 years ago, and I wasn't sure if that's completely ancient history by now, but I take it that it's good enough, even if not ideal.
She always cleans the tip before turning it off. She’s a keeper
Using flux will make any joints perfect. You will save time and less heat is needed
Great video. I have been soldering for decades. I prefer a chisel tip more heated surface area. I only break out the point one when I’m doing something very small.
Excellent discussion . . . Bravo . . . I might suggest also discussing the conductivity of different solder metals. Silver is superior as it is closest to copper in conductivity. Lead is not bad but its not as conductive as copper or silver. (note that silver solder is usually a combination of tin and silver).
3 minutes until the video starts
Timestamp: 0:00
Try applying flux onto the surface to be soldered before soldering. Also leave a thick amount
of solder on the tip before storing the soldering iron. Next time you use the soldering iron
all you have to do is wipe off the solder on the tip after it's up to temp.
The way I typically heat up the heat shrink is with the thick part of the rod of the soldering iron (not actually touching it, just getting very close, ideally from below). No risk of ugly black parts from the flame.
This was great! I love tutorials which explain what can go wrong! Perfect
Very clear and detailed tutorial. One of the best. Well Done!
A tangential / backup idea: but if you have to join wire and can't solder them, consider using the Western Union linesman's splice. It's a clever way of twisting wire together to form a mechanically strong connection. The resulting joined wires can be soldered together for extra strength, but soldering isn't absolutely required.
As a certified solderer, I used the clips of my helping hands, as a heat sink so the solder does not wick too far up the wire. They will also protect any heat shrink tubing from premature shrinking. For my solder cleaning I only used filtered water from a room temperature container. Another thought. Does the Hakko solder station remind you of something designed by Playskool?
Thank you for the helpful methods of soldering. When I first learned to solder, I was instructed to tin each wire end first, and then join them. What are your thoughts on this?
Great video, I learnt a few new things and being self-taught it reinforced things I've apparently been doing correctly. I didn't know about the trick with heat shrink and a lighter (in the blue part of the flame), what a game changer!
Great video, "THANK YOU!".
Here's a tip;
When joining 2 wire ends together, spread the strands apart, interweave the spread ends, then twist the 2 ends together joining the 2 wires.
That is mechanically stronger &, IMO, makes a better solder joint.
That's an interesting way to use punctuation... 🤔
Love the pinecil, it melts solder faster than my huge yihua soldering station. I've also found the solder varies a lot, had some aliexpress solder that wouldn't stick to anything and looked dull. I bought some Kester solder and it works so much better, nice and shiny, flows freely and sticks to copper well. Both claim to be the same lead/tin rosin core composition
I usually prefer a butane soldering iron, I also fan out the stranded wires, push one fan through into the other, at about 60° to each other to start with, then twist around each other. It gives a nice even twist, intermeshing the two wires neatly.
A great beginner's video nonetheless, I really enjoyed it. Thank you
Oh no, premature tube shrinkage! But seriously, I'm a beginner and this is probably the most thorough and methodical instructional video on wire soldering I've seen on UA-cam so far.
I always use flux core solder and additional flux on the bare wires first. I’ve always found that this flows way better. Especially when using the lead free stuff.