This tutorial is the best I've seen, mentioning Neutrik documentation, clear and close up shots, shield and tip properly positioned before starting soldering. Good work.
I couldnt agree more. Other soldering videos never been as good as this. And this is the best method i did. Other videos always provide improper method and leave my cable joint not strong as this.
This is the second video I've benefitted from on this channe....so farl. Two out of two ain't bad. Even more appealing, the creator actually responds to questions. Bravo, sir, on a really helpful channel and for your giving spirit..
That was pretty. I’ve looked at a lot of clips today. Learned a lot but from the knowledge I knew about basic soldering, all I found were tutorials on things varying from “Maybe Make A Cold Solder” to “Create A True Cluster Fruck”. You ended up with nice looking joints.
Thank you! Not to mention, it's incredibly difficult to perfectly film a good solder joint, since the camera is in the way and it's hard to see what you're doing. Basically my pattern is as follows(using a well tinned solder tip): Allow iron to heat to temp, "shock" or clean the tip on a damp sponge, give the iron tip 3-5 seconds to recover it's heat and then apply the tip to the joint until the parts heat and solder starts to flow. Add solder to joint and be sure it fully "wets" the joint and until you have the correct solder "fillet." The entire process should all take about 10 seconds or less. Pull the iron away and let the joint cool without movement. If your joint moves while cooling, it will create a cold joint. If you don't get it on the first try, let the joint cool for 1 minute and try again. Repeat as necessary, always allowing the part to cool. If you don't, you risk damaging the part. Also, its good to try a test joint, to make sure your iron isn't too hot or cool. If it's too hot, the wire insulation will quickly melt. If it's too cool, it will seemingly take forever and your joints will be cold and dry.
Wish I'd seen this before attempting to make a cable - manufacturers don't mention about the conductor sheathing needing to be stripped back, I thought I was going mad when my cable sounded extremely quiet yet tested well for continuity!
@@FrankOlsonTwins Just because you responded (thanks, btw), quick update: it went great! I used TechFlex, and idk what your experience is with it, but boy is that stuff a pain in the rear! Constant fraying. Looks really cool, though
No problem, hope it helps! It also gets easier after soldering a few joints each time- getting the iron temperature right and the tip properly tinned. Usually the solder joints are getting good after 2 or 3 practice joints.
I came to this video looking for reasons why my home-made Neutrik lead was dropping ~6dB and hi-end. I didn't know about the conductive properties of the black shielding on the core. Oops - time to redo some cables, and I'll be using all of your other great tips. Thank you. PS - it's always a bit of fun hearing how people from your side of the globe pronounce solder, which in Australia (and I think UK) rhymes with colder. Cheers!
Yes, the little insulation layer is a trick at first! But thankfully, you should be able to just scrape it back without any other re-working. And yes, the pronunciation of "sodder" is hotly contested in comment sections of my vids! 😂😀
This the instruction I needed! Although my product isn't as prefect as demonstrated here, in fact it's kind of sloppy, it works the way I want it to work. Soldering and cutting things in the right order is part of the trick. I have a different plug and cable but the principe is the same. Also I had to use S39, in the right way. Another video showed me that. Thanx!
It should be shielded somehow. If you use regular wire, such as lsmp cord, it will still work, but at some point it will pick up noise. Basically unshielded cable becomes an antenna when plugged into the input of an amplifier.
Start with an 8" long piece of thin solder. Fold it in half, twice. It should now be four strands. Twist the four strands into a braid. Not too tight, or it will break apart.
Hello, thanks for checking out the vid! I've been using this iron: amzn.to/3TbHjey but I do notice the tip likes to come loose and fall out if you don't keep the retaining nut tight. Here's a better Iron: Weller Iron: amzn.to/3N65b0b And some good solder: Kester Solder: amzn.to/3C4WKMm Or Oatey Solder: Kester Solder: amzn.to/3C4WKMm
A few strands isn't really a big deal. In fact, I bet you could get away with up to half of the strands(maybe more?) being broken or unsoldered before it becomes noticeable. Best practice, however, would be a minimum of broken strands. I'd be curious to know the "critical mass of broken strands" which would introduce a negative impact into the cable.
Hi Frank. Just a quick question. Some engineers insist that the best thing to do is to grab a minimal amount of solder. I think it's best to use a minimum amount of solder, because solder can cause a tone change. They will probably say you have too much solder. I am not criticizing you. I use about the same amount of solder as you do, because that way the circuit is reliably connected. Yes, it will change the tone a little, but it will be negligible, and I believe that preventing the risk of wire breakage should be a priority. What is your opinion?
Hey, good question. I'm usually looking to create a balance between electrical connection and mechanical durability. As you may know, the pocket of solder between the conductor and the connector is called a fillet. Generally, I'm looking for a fillet that is slightly convex. If they are concave, the joints can be weak over time. Too covex can also create a joint that becomes dry or unnecessarily heavy. I'd agree that the fillets in the video are just a bit too heavy, but I'd say they're within reason. You want to be able to just make out the strands of the wire at the top of the joint. Another important consideration is not overheating the joint. In this case, the inner conductor has a very delicate insulator, so, you only get a few seconds to get the joint right. That's why I use the braided solder-in-the-pocket method. That will usually give just the right amount of solder without overheating the joint. Too much solder won't really affect the tone(unless the joint is bad), but it's good practice to use "just the right amount." As with all soldering, each part is different and requires a slightly different technique, so trial and error will be required for each new joint. Once you find the correct amount of solder for each joint, each joint gets better than the last. Since I'm not making cables on a daily basis I start with a best guess and go from there. If this were a NASA or Mil-Spec project however, I'd be scrapping the joint and starting over! Thankfully, it's just rock n roll....
@@FrankOlsonTwins Thanks for your thoughtful reply. And I agree with you. In social networking aka hell, some engineers post the "correct" method daily. Even if they are biased, the popularity makes up for it. And they are sometimes the cause of attacks on different opinions. I judge things holistically and use what I think is the best method according to physics. That is why I wanted to hear your opinion, which adopts a similar methodology to mine. You are a very sincere person. I wish you all the best in your future endeavors!
The age of the strings can change the tone as well, but I personally like the sound of old strings. So for someone like me, give me strength over a theoretical measurement.
@shadesguy44 Hey thanks! I just try to follow my instincts and let my ears decide if something is worth the trouble or borders on snake oil.... I try to keep an open mind about most things. The internet is really focused on HYPE, which sells products and ideas really well. I don't mind testing things to see what works and what doesn't, rather than taking someone's word for it. That said, there's some research that is decades old- done by laboratories who have spent millions to make an educated decision. I'm usually inclined to use their ideas/products/techniques as a starting point, rather than reinventing the wheel! Thanks again for checking out the vids! Best, Frank
I'd like to know if you've tried the other NP2X variants and if there are any practical and tonal differences?(when i checked the tech spec sheets, they're basically all the same) and Thanks for this video! Will be trying to make one soon.
I've used all the PX variants except for the switched one. They all sound the same to me. It really becomes a question of preference or practicality. Some people like right angles, some prefer the gold tips. I do like the built in cable strain relief. So, i usually use the silver/silver or black/silver
I don't have any videos up, but the same rules generally apply. Sometimes, if the hole for the inner conductor is very small, I'll forgo tinning the inner conductor so the wire goes in better. In that case, just be careful to not overheat the joint which will melt the insulation and cause problems. If you need to add more solder or reflow the joint just wait a few minutes to let it all cool down and try again. Good luck!
If you have a nice pair of strippers, give them a go. Most people don't. Cheap wire strippers make a mess of coax wire such as this. It's pretty easy to score the and strip the insulation without nicking the wire for only the cost of an exacto blade.
Sure! Mogami W2319 or Mogami 2524. Proco, Rapco and Belden also make suitable coax cables. Otherwise you'll have to search for "bulk instrument cable" to see what's available in your area. Good luck!
My ground wire never solders properly. Doesn't seem to stick. Even adding flux. Only using a small tip soldering iron - thinking that is the problem? Can never hear the ground shield to be hot enough to melt solder.
It might not be hot enough. I've had similar problems with silver colored ground/shield wire. I try not to use anything other than bright, fresh copper wire. Also, really old oxidized wire will resist soldering. I'm at the point where I won't even try to resolder old, oxidized cables. If the wire looks oxidized more than a few inches back from cable end, I just replace the cable.
The ground terminal has a large surface area, so it cools easily. As Frank says, use a high power soldering iron. In some cases, a 40-60W product is recommended. Work quickly as these tend to melt plastic parts. If using a high power soldering iron does not work, the terminals may be coated. Use sandpaper to lightly scrape the terminals. They will make soldering much easier.
It's an old trick to make the solder thicker when needed. Putting 4 or more thin strands would be more difficult and they might not stay in place. Also, adding the right amount of solder at once helps keep the joint from over heating.
Can anyone say whether or not a little excess heat while soldering can damage these connectors? They’re driving me mad. It seems that any excess heat damages the connection. I made 2 leads with quality new klotz cable. One was good but the other sounded like half the volume and clarity was missing, even with the lead testing perfect for continuity with a multimeter. So I’m completely confused as to why one of them sounds muffled and quiet.
Hmm, it sounds like the only way you'll be able to really check your bad cables is to completely disassemble the cables and test each connector and each cable without the ends connected. It's possible that the heat has damaged the connector, but it seems more likely that something else is happening(such as a stray wire or some of the carbon shield touching the internal coductor). Your cable itself might be melted so it might help to cut back an inch or so and start over.
@@FrankOlsonTwins thanks for the swift reply! The carbon shield - is that the thin black layer around the centre part of the cable? The klotz AC110 I used has - -The outer rubber -Copper shield -Thin black layer -Thick white foamy layer -Centre conductor
@@FrankOlsonTwins thanks that’ll be it, I realised I didn’t strip that part back and it probably melted onto the centre conductor. Strange how it doesn’t ground the signal completely. Kind of half grounds it, ruining tone and volume. Thanks for your time and the excellent video 👍
You rock dude! I barely did one out of 4 right and needed some confirmation, you surpassed it. Thanks!
Thanks, glad it helps!
This tutorial is the best I've seen, mentioning Neutrik documentation, clear and close up shots, shield and tip properly positioned before starting soldering. Good work.
Hey, thanks! I like to be thorough and I want people to make the best cables they can!
@@FrankOlsonTwins Seconded. It's a great video. If my soldering were 0.16% as good as this video, I'd be happy.
Your 100th cable will be soldered perfectly :)
I couldnt agree more. Other soldering videos never been as good as this. And this is the best method i did. Other videos always provide improper method and leave my cable joint not strong as this.
This is the second video I've benefitted from on this channe....so farl. Two out of two ain't bad. Even more appealing, the creator actually responds to questions. Bravo, sir, on a really helpful channel and for your giving spirit..
Thanks! Glad to hear it!
I’m new to soldering I love the twisted solder idea and the pedal well you should be given an award for that one .. freaking genius
That was pretty. I’ve looked at a lot of clips today. Learned a lot but from the knowledge I knew about basic soldering, all I found were tutorials on things varying from “Maybe Make A Cold Solder” to “Create A True Cluster Fruck”. You ended up with nice looking joints.
Thank you! Not to mention, it's incredibly difficult to perfectly film a good solder joint, since the camera is in the way and it's hard to see what you're doing. Basically my pattern is as follows(using a well tinned solder tip): Allow iron to heat to temp, "shock" or clean the tip on a damp sponge, give the iron tip 3-5 seconds to recover it's heat and then apply the tip to the joint until the parts heat and solder starts to flow. Add solder to joint and be sure it fully "wets" the joint and until you have the correct solder "fillet." The entire process should all take about 10 seconds or less. Pull the iron away and let the joint cool without movement. If your joint moves while cooling, it will create a cold joint.
If you don't get it on the first try, let the joint cool for 1 minute and try again. Repeat as necessary, always allowing the part to cool. If you don't, you risk damaging the part.
Also, its good to try a test joint, to make sure your iron isn't too hot or cool. If it's too hot, the wire insulation will quickly melt. If it's too cool, it will seemingly take forever and your joints will be cold and dry.
I've just started learning cable DIY, but by far the best instruction video out of all that I''ve watched
Thanks!
Absolutely great! Shows me where I've been going wrong all these years! Love the twisted solder idea👍👍
Thanks, hope it helps!
Wish I'd seen this before attempting to make a cable - manufacturers don't mention about the conductor sheathing needing to be stripped back, I thought I was going mad when my cable sounded extremely quiet yet tested well for continuity!
It got me the first time too!
Thanks a lot! The idea of using the pedal to block the jack is awesome!!!
Thanks! Yeah, once you use the jack, you can't go back!
That is indeed genius as well as putting in a twisted piece of solder - that allows you apply downward pressure for the best possible contact.
Clear and perfect tutorial. Thanks a bunch. Now my son can play the guitar.
Thank you! Glad it helps!
Hey thanks, parts arrived today and I'm ready to solder some cables!
Cool, good luck!
@@FrankOlsonTwins Just because you responded (thanks, btw), quick update: it went great! I used TechFlex, and idk what your experience is with it, but boy is that stuff a pain in the rear! Constant fraying. Looks really cool, though
Awesome. I've never installed Techflex, but I've dealt with it on occasion and I agree- pretty high on the annoying scale!
wow I'm astonished to see how you unwrapped the braided shield so cleanly! (The Canare L-4E6S braid is so frustrating)
I have LOTS of experience unwrapping this cable, but once in a while it still makes a mess!
Thanks very much Frank - for your informative tutorial. You make it look so easy ! .... guess that practice makes perfect.
No problem, hope it helps! It also gets easier after soldering a few joints each time- getting the iron temperature right and the tip properly tinned. Usually the solder joints are getting good after 2 or 3 practice joints.
I came to this video looking for reasons why my home-made Neutrik lead was dropping ~6dB and hi-end. I didn't know about the conductive properties of the black shielding on the core. Oops - time to redo some cables, and I'll be using all of your other great tips. Thank you.
PS - it's always a bit of fun hearing how people from your side of the globe pronounce solder, which in Australia (and I think UK) rhymes with colder. Cheers!
😂😊
Yes, the little insulation layer is a trick at first! But thankfully, you should be able to just scrape it back without any other re-working. And yes, the pronunciation of "sodder" is hotly contested in comment sections of my vids! 😂😀
Invaluable. Thank you!
Glad to hear it! Hope it helps!
This the instruction I needed! Although my product isn't as prefect as demonstrated here, in fact it's kind of sloppy, it works the way I want it to work. Soldering and cutting things in the right order is part of the trick. I have a different plug and cable but the principe is the same. Also I had to use S39, in the right way. Another video showed me that. Thanx!
Hey, thanks for checking out the vid! Hopefully there are a few bits you were able to use with your cable! Glad your cable worked out!
The video you take is professional!👍
Thanks! I'm intrigued by your cable designs. They look great!
I always use Neutrik connectors 👍
Very smart and top notch work , exactly what I was after, thanks ✌🏼
Thanks, glad it helped!
Is that shielded cable important. I mean can we use any other cable for this purpose? I tested cables and there is no change in sound.
It should be shielded somehow. If you use regular wire, such as lsmp cord, it will still work, but at some point it will pick up noise. Basically unshielded cable becomes an antenna when plugged into the input of an amplifier.
Great video, thanks! How do you braid the solder like that?
Start with an 8" long piece of thin solder. Fold it in half, twice. It should now be four strands. Twist the four strands into a braid. Not too tight, or it will break apart.
Very nice tutorial. Clean and concise. 👍👍
Thanks! Hope it helps!
Really nicely done - thanks!
Thanks, hope it helps!
Hi great video, what soldering iron and wire eould you recommend cheers
Hello, thanks for checking out the vid! I've been using this iron: amzn.to/3TbHjey but I do notice the tip likes to come loose and fall out if you don't keep the retaining nut tight.
Here's a better Iron: Weller Iron: amzn.to/3N65b0b
And some good solder: Kester Solder: amzn.to/3C4WKMm Or Oatey Solder: Kester Solder: amzn.to/3C4WKMm
Thank you for sharing your skills.
Happy to help!
Great video
Thanks!
What happens if some of the shielding wire breaks? Is there a critical mass where the final product will be negatively impacted by lost wire?
A few strands isn't really a big deal. In fact, I bet you could get away with up to half of the strands(maybe more?) being broken or unsoldered before it becomes noticeable. Best practice, however, would be a minimum of broken strands. I'd be curious to know the "critical mass of broken strands" which would introduce a negative impact into the cable.
Hi Frank. Just a quick question.
Some engineers insist that the best thing to do is to grab a minimal amount of solder. I think it's best to use a minimum amount of solder, because solder can cause a tone change.
They will probably say you have too much solder.
I am not criticizing you. I use about the same amount of solder as you do, because that way the circuit is reliably connected.
Yes, it will change the tone a little, but it will be negligible, and I believe that preventing the risk of wire breakage should be a priority.
What is your opinion?
Hey, good question. I'm usually looking to create a balance between electrical connection and mechanical durability. As you may know, the pocket of solder between the conductor and the connector is called a fillet. Generally, I'm looking for a fillet that is slightly convex. If they are concave, the joints can be weak over time. Too covex can also create a joint that becomes dry or unnecessarily heavy. I'd agree that the fillets in the video are just a bit too heavy, but I'd say they're within reason. You want to be able to just make out the strands of the wire at the top of the joint. Another important consideration is not overheating the joint. In this case, the inner conductor has a very delicate insulator, so, you only get a few seconds to get the joint right. That's why I use the braided solder-in-the-pocket method. That will usually give just the right amount of solder without overheating the joint. Too much solder won't really affect the tone(unless the joint is bad), but it's good practice to use "just the right amount." As with all soldering, each part is different and requires a slightly different technique, so trial and error will be required for each new joint. Once you find the correct amount of solder for each joint, each joint gets better than the last. Since I'm not making cables on a daily basis I start with a best guess and go from there.
If this were a NASA or Mil-Spec project however, I'd be scrapping the joint and starting over! Thankfully, it's just rock n roll....
@@FrankOlsonTwins Thanks for your thoughtful reply. And I agree with you.
In social networking aka hell, some engineers post the "correct" method daily. Even if they are biased, the popularity makes up for it. And they are sometimes the cause of attacks on different opinions.
I judge things holistically and use what I think is the best method according to physics. That is why I wanted to hear your opinion, which adopts a similar methodology to mine.
You are a very sincere person. I wish you all the best in your future endeavors!
The age of the strings can change the tone as well, but I personally like the sound of old strings. So for someone like me, give me strength over a theoretical measurement.
@shadesguy44 Hey thanks! I just try to follow my instincts and let my ears decide if something is worth the trouble or borders on snake oil.... I try to keep an open mind about most things. The internet is really focused on HYPE, which sells products and ideas really well. I don't mind testing things to see what works and what doesn't, rather than taking someone's word for it. That said, there's some research that is decades old- done by laboratories who have spent millions to make an educated decision. I'm usually inclined to use their ideas/products/techniques as a starting point, rather than reinventing the wheel!
Thanks again for checking out the vids!
Best,
Frank
@drumbyte I like older strings as well, especially on acoustic guitars!
I'd like to know if you've tried the other NP2X variants and if there are any practical and tonal differences?(when i checked the tech spec sheets, they're basically all the same) and Thanks for this video! Will be trying to make one soon.
I've used all the PX variants except for the switched one. They all sound the same to me. It really becomes a question of preference or practicality. Some people like right angles, some prefer the gold tips. I do like the built in cable strain relief. So, i usually use the silver/silver or black/silver
Great! Do you have a video for xlr cables too?
Thanks! And yes I do: ua-cam.com/video/YgKQO6W-xos/v-deo.html
@@FrankOlsonTwins awesome 👏
❤❤❤ Great thank's...!! Greeting from Indonesia...
Hope it helps!
Hey mate sorry for the silly question I prefer right angle jacks on one end for my basses have you done these any tips?
I don't have any videos up, but the same rules generally apply. Sometimes, if the hole for the inner conductor is very small, I'll forgo tinning the inner conductor so the wire goes in better. In that case, just be careful to not overheat the joint which will melt the insulation and cause problems. If you need to add more solder or reflow the joint just wait a few minutes to let it all cool down and try again.
Good luck!
Thank you for the video. It’s very very helpful
Hey, glad it helps. Thanks for checking out the vid!
Why not use wire strippers as opposed to the knife?
If you have a nice pair of strippers, give them a go. Most people don't. Cheap wire strippers make a mess of coax wire such as this. It's pretty easy to score the and strip the insulation without nicking the wire for only the cost of an exacto blade.
@@FrankOlsonTwins great question, great answer! I have experienced the cheap wire stripper problem
@@cmeimgee Someday I'll pony up for a pair of thermal strippers...!
Do you have any alternative coaxial cable code other than GS6? I cant find this one online in TR. Thanx alot!
Sure! Mogami W2319 or Mogami 2524. Proco, Rapco and Belden also make suitable coax cables. Otherwise you'll have to search for "bulk instrument cable" to see what's available in your area. Good luck!
Excellent video. Do you have one with Silent Plug (supplier?)? Thanks
Thanks! Not yet, I haven't tried a silent plug!
Very nice and precise! Cheers!
Thank you! Hope it helps!
My ground wire never solders properly. Doesn't seem to stick. Even adding flux. Only using a small tip soldering iron - thinking that is the problem? Can never hear the ground shield to be hot enough to melt solder.
It might not be hot enough. I've had similar problems with silver colored ground/shield wire. I try not to use anything other than bright, fresh copper wire. Also, really old oxidized wire will resist soldering. I'm at the point where I won't even try to resolder old, oxidized cables. If the wire looks oxidized more than a few inches back from cable end, I just replace the cable.
The ground terminal has a large surface area, so it cools easily.
As Frank says, use a high power soldering iron. In some cases, a 40-60W product is recommended. Work quickly as these tend to melt plastic parts.
If using a high power soldering iron does not work, the terminals may be coated. Use sandpaper to lightly scrape the terminals.
They will make soldering much easier.
Curious why you twist the solder like that!
It's an old trick to make the solder thicker when needed. Putting 4 or more thin strands would be more difficult and they might not stay in place. Also, adding the right amount of solder at once helps keep the joint from over heating.
Can anyone say whether or not a little excess heat while soldering can damage these connectors?
They’re driving me mad. It seems that any excess heat damages the connection. I made 2 leads with quality new klotz cable. One was good but the other sounded like half the volume and clarity was missing, even with the lead testing perfect for continuity with a multimeter. So I’m completely confused as to why one of them sounds muffled and quiet.
Hmm, it sounds like the only way you'll be able to really check your bad cables is to completely disassemble the cables and test each connector and each cable without the ends connected. It's possible that the heat has damaged the connector, but it seems more likely that something else is happening(such as a stray wire or some of the carbon shield touching the internal coductor). Your cable itself might be melted so it might help to cut back an inch or so and start over.
@@FrankOlsonTwins thanks for the swift reply! The carbon shield - is that the thin black layer around the centre part of the cable? The klotz AC110 I used has -
-The outer rubber
-Copper shield
-Thin black layer
-Thick white foamy layer
-Centre conductor
Yes, the thin black layer is the carbon shield. If any part of that is coming in contact with the inner conductor, your cable won't work properly
@@FrankOlsonTwins thanks that’ll be it, I realised I didn’t strip that part back and it probably melted onto the centre conductor. Strange how it doesn’t ground the signal completely. Kind of half grounds it, ruining tone and volume. Thanks for your time and the excellent video 👍
The first time I used this kind of wire, I did the same thing. Glad your cable is working!
Great video ....
I hope you PLAY has well has you make cables.
All the best.
Tx J.p.
Thanks! Only one way to find out: music.apple.com/us/artist/frank-olson-twins/1174202619
Do you think if we brush the wires we will have a better sound?
No but if they are frayed and short out you'll have no sound 😄
Perfection!!
Hey, thanks!
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks! Hope it helps!
Niiice
clear, clever, methodical, instant like and subscription
Awesome, Thanks! Trying to make the very best cable possible!
I wish I would have watched this video instead of the one I watched. I’ve got some redos coming!
❤
Thanks!
I asked for a solding video, not a master piece. :D
😎😀
What solder is used? Solder wire with flux? Lead? …What soldering iron? … That wood pic is for what animal?
Kester 60/40 rosin core solder, Soldering iron should be between 40-100 watts. Technically the wood pick is a cotton swab stick...
Great video. Thank you
Thanks! Hope it helps!