***IMPORTANT POINT*** After stripping the outside of the cable & stripping the end of the "Conductor" cable (center) .. ***BE SURE TO REMOVE THE THIN BLACK COATING @2:55 IN THE VIDEO) ***!!. If not you will end up with a huge loss of volume & tone :-( ... Or like me, since West Coast Pedal Board is just a few miles away, call and leave a message that there is something wrong with the cables, watch the video a few more times, rebuild my cables & then call the next morning to apologize for being a Dummy :-)! Thanks Spence!!!!!
2:48 I had no idea how important it was to pull off the black stuff. I was struggling with signal loss because I did not know that stuff had to be cleaned off. Once I did that it started working fine.
Does it not make the connection stronger when you put the wire through the hole and solder? I always thought you were supposed to do it like that, is the hole just there to hold the solder?
I have built 30-40 of these and I usually do the through hole. The main problem with that approach is you can get stray "hairs" of the underlying wire splitting off when you push the twisted bit through the hole that can short internally. I'm going to try this approach on the back half of this pedalboard. Also note that a good solder surface to surface connection is actually very strong. That, plus the strain releif in the cable and you should be in good shape. Note that the bigger problem I've had with the Mogami is having the interior conductor short to the black layer. There's two layers of internal shield around the inner coax. The outer, black one is actually conductive to the outer shield, which is why you want the inner, clearish one exposed separately.
Nice video! I would add though that it’s super important to keep the wire perfectly still while the solder solidifies otherwise you get a cold joint that cracks easily. Can’t wait to try these plugs!
Actually, the amount of care you need to take depends on the type of solder that you use. Most lead based solders I come across nowadays are Eutectic which means that the transition of liquid to solid happens at one temperature. While you can get cold solder joints if you move during this transition it becomes very difficult to do so even if you are trying to. Now, this video shows non-eutectic solder being used which has a window of around 8 degrees during which it changes from a liquid to a solid - in this case it is very important to not move because the solder can change state at different times throughout the "blob" and you dont want it moving while some of it is solid and other parts of it are not - this is one reason for cold solder joints.
Yup…..that and how many burn marks you have on your hands, or gear you accidentally held the solder tip against, not paying attention….lol. I fall into that category, as well. Thankfully, I’m getting more efficient (and safe), in spite of myself. 👍
This video will help everybody who wants to build a professional patch cables and its a perfect choice to use SP plugs with Mogami cables Thx a lot for sharing .
How bad are the soldering fumes? I'm just going to make the wires for my rig one time and then do periodic repairs, etc. Do I need a vapor extraction system like you have. Or will an open window work? thanks, t
The simplicity of holes in wood for clamps is great. Firm hold, one handed in and out, square plugs poiting the dame direction, can make 2 hole clamp in seconds. Love ideas that are so simple but outside the normal. Guess you have keep a clear mind and think about the fundamentals of what you are trying to do 'hold round thing' (or when the lack of a screwdriver 🪛 cab be resolved with a zen butter knife etc)
Using the SP5 (round/short) and 2319 cable, I noticed that the screws penetrate the the outside protection black layer. Suggestions to address how deep should I go (=you provide very good measures for everything else)?? Thanks
Why peel off the thin black coating on the center wire? I'm waiting on my kit from you guys to come in the mail. Should be here by Monday. I'd like to be as educated as possible before I get the product in hand.
It’s a conductive thin layer used to shield the cable scrim unwanted noise, but it has to be gently stripped off before terminating the cable. Maximum tone my dude 👍🏼🤘🏼🤙🏼 and thanks for the order!!!
What is the problem with leaving some of the black coating on the main conductor? I didn’t strip mine all the way (just enough to make the solder connection to terminal). I AB’d with a purchased cable and didn’t notice anything different.
Very informative thank you! i have 2 questions if you don't mind since i am a newbie. What is the right temperature for soldering the (2319+sp500)?. Lastly what do you do after finishing all you connections? do you apply a fresh solder on the tip and leave it as is so to protect it from corrosion? thanks!
Hey Jay, thanks for the comment. We use Hakko FX888D and have real good results running it at 750 degrees. Check here for more in depth info, including specific tools and installation techniques: westcoastpedalboard.com/diy-pedalboard-patch-cables/
Great video demonstrating how to do this quickly and not overthink it. Here's a question if anyone is still reading.. On some of my SP400 patches they work fine if stationary but if I rotate them around in the jack of the pedal I might get static or funny behavior from the pedal. When I open it up and inspect I see that some of the strands of the braid are a little loose and wiry and could be scraping around inside the shell. Not enough to short the center conductor at all just around the shell. Is this my culprit here? In my case it's more of an issue due to I'm using braided shield cable where the braid is a little more hairy than dealing with this easy going spiral Mogami you're using. I thought about this during assembly but figured since it's just the braid scraping around a surface that's already grounded it shouldn't matter but it seems to. I suppose it's changing the resistance or something and causing the noise I'm hearing. Not sure what the fix is, maybe tin farther towards the cable body, maybe add some heat shrink around the exposed shield. Any thoughts?
Send us an email with a few pictures and the brand cable your trying to use. I would almost suggest buying some 2314 cable and re-soldering all your cables with that.
Do y’all ever have trouble with the sp400 tip? All of my straight plugs SPS4 are no issue at all but I keep getting tip connection shorts on the right angle plugs.
We don’t use SP400’s but I would assume since we’ve never had an issue with the 500’s, you might be doing something wrong. Are you getting the same short prior to soldering? If yes, then you have faulty plugs, if not, you’re soldering them incorrectly. Maybe sitting in the solder tabs too long with the iron. We ton everything, let it cool then quickly hit them at 750 degrees for the solder; not staying on the solder tab for more than a few seconds.
@@Westcoastpedalboard I am new to soldering and I very well could be messing up, but it seems only these plugs are the issue. I soldered all dc power and straight SPS4 plugs first with no issue. How do you check if plugs could be faulty?
@@totojules8885 we have the part links in the video here, or you can search our website for SP500. hello@westcoastpedalboard.com if you have any questions 🤙🏼
What is that colored rubber sleeve that goes over the cable and under the ends. It's where companies put their name on the cable. Some kind of shrink tube? Do you guys carry it? I'd like to add them to my builds thanks 😊
@@Westcoastpedalboard that's great. I understand it's not necessary....but I like the look or asthetics of a cable with that on. Can I make it happen? I guess the question is will it not fit because the diameter of the mogami cable to those ends? Thank you
Very helpful video, but just to be clear, no one (including SnapOn) makes a single stripper/crimper tool that spans 10-20 AWG, and that's true for the red SnapOn one that you've shown here also. If its got 5-holes, then its either 10-18 or 12-20.
***IMPORTANT POINT*** After stripping the outside of the cable & stripping the end of the "Conductor" cable (center) .. ***BE SURE TO REMOVE THE THIN BLACK COATING @2:55 IN THE VIDEO) ***!!. If not you will end up with a huge loss of volume & tone :-( ... Or like me, since West Coast Pedal Board is just a few miles away, call and leave a message that there is something wrong with the cables, watch the video a few more times, rebuild my cables & then call the next morning to apologize for being a Dummy :-)! Thanks Spence!!!!!
Thanks John! 🤙🏼👌🏻
2:48 I had no idea how important it was to pull off the black stuff. I was struggling with signal loss because I did not know that stuff had to be cleaned off. Once I did that it started working fine.
Lad you found that useful my brother. Those little details are super important sometimes. 👍🏼🤘🏼
Thank you so much for this comment! I didn’t realize that’s been my problem as well until right now...
Does it not make the connection stronger when you put the wire through the hole and solder? I always thought you were supposed to do it like that, is the hole just there to hold the solder?
You certainly can do that! Just usually requires some side cutters and different strip back lengths to be able manipulate the individual cables. 🤙🏼🤘🏼
I have built 30-40 of these and I usually do the through hole. The main problem with that approach is you can get stray "hairs" of the underlying wire splitting off when you push the twisted bit through the hole that can short internally. I'm going to try this approach on the back half of this pedalboard. Also note that a good solder surface to surface connection is actually very strong. That, plus the strain releif in the cable and you should be in good shape.
Note that the bigger problem I've had with the Mogami is having the interior conductor short to the black layer. There's two layers of internal shield around the inner coax. The outer, black one is actually conductive to the outer shield, which is why you want the inner, clearish one exposed separately.
Nice video! I would add though that it’s super important to keep the wire perfectly still while the solder solidifies otherwise you get a cold joint that cracks easily. Can’t wait to try these plugs!
I also thought you had to put the wires through the small holes (?), and keep them still. Thank heaven for You Tube! I appreciate the video.
Actually, the amount of care you need to take depends on the type of solder that you use. Most lead based solders I come across nowadays are Eutectic which means that the transition of liquid to solid happens at one temperature. While you can get cold solder joints if you move during this transition it becomes very difficult to do so even if you are trying to. Now, this video shows non-eutectic solder being used which has a window of around 8 degrees during which it changes from a liquid to a solid - in this case it is very important to not move because the solder can change state at different times throughout the "blob" and you dont want it moving while some of it is solid and other parts of it are not - this is one reason for cold solder joints.
10:55 "Shouldn't have to touch it for too long" that's what I tell my wife.
🤣😆🙀
What would separate the amateurs from the pros is how often you forget to put the jacket on first. I would definitely be categorized in the former. 🤣
Haha, so. Many. Times! These new SP500’s don’t require that tho, thankfully!
@@Westcoastpedalboard right! I was really referring to the SP5S. Which is why I’ll just stick to SP500 lol.
Yup…..that and how many burn marks you have on your hands, or gear you accidentally held the solder tip against, not paying attention….lol. I fall into that category, as well. Thankfully, I’m getting more efficient (and safe), in spite of myself. 👍
This video will help everybody who wants to build a professional patch cables and its a perfect choice to use
SP plugs with Mogami cables Thx a lot for sharing .
Thanks! We get a lots of emails and phone calls thanking us for the info. Glad it’s helping out!! ❤️
How bad are the soldering fumes? I'm just going to make the wires for my rig one time and then do periodic repairs, etc. Do I need a vapor extraction system like you have. Or will an open window work? thanks, t
Do it where adequate ventilation is achieved! Did you buy the parts already?
The simplicity of holes in wood for clamps is great. Firm hold, one handed in and out, square plugs poiting the dame direction, can make 2 hole clamp in seconds. Love ideas that are so simple but outside the normal. Guess you have keep a clear mind and think about the fundamentals of what you are trying to do 'hold round thing'
(or when the lack of a screwdriver 🪛 cab be resolved with a zen butter knife etc)
I second that... I struggle (newbie) with available tools that are somewhat expensive for what they do and not friendly. Suggestions for sink gadgets?
Using the SP5 (round/short) and 2319 cable, I noticed that the screws penetrate the the outside protection black layer. Suggestions to address how deep should I go (=you provide very good measures for everything else)?? Thanks
Tighten them the entire way, they won’t interfere with anything at all 👍🏻 Glad you found the tutorial useful! Thanks…
@@Westcoastpedalboard Thanks. BTW the crimper tool is really nice but very difficult to buy it... waiting ...
Really good job and fine video ;)
Just as my stuff arrives, to make output jacks for my board. One straight and one right angle... are you literally always on time? 😂
Kristian Jones brother! You know how we do!!! ✌🏻🤘🏼🤙🏼
Why peel off the thin black coating on the center wire? I'm waiting on my kit from you guys to come in the mail. Should be here by Monday. I'd like to be as educated as possible before I get the product in hand.
It’s a conductive thin layer used to shield the cable scrim unwanted noise, but it has to be gently stripped off before terminating the cable. Maximum tone my dude 👍🏼🤘🏼🤙🏼 and thanks for the order!!!
@@Westcoastpedalboard thank you for the explanation! I'll make sure I get em all done up correctly. Got a whole bunch of em to do too!
What is the problem with leaving some of the black coating on the main conductor? I didn’t strip mine all the way (just enough to make the solder connection to terminal). I AB’d with a purchased cable and didn’t notice anything different.
Very informative thank you! i have 2 questions if you don't mind since i am a newbie. What is the right temperature for soldering the (2319+sp500)?. Lastly what do you do after finishing all you connections? do you apply a fresh solder on the tip and leave it as is so to protect it from corrosion? thanks!
We run the irons at 700 so we can be quick about it. We use the irons so often, we just clean the tip in shredded metal and leave it.
@@Westcoastpedalboard thank you!
@@kostischaveles anytime 🤘🏼
What's the optimal wattage soldering iron for this?
Hey Jay, thanks for the comment. We use Hakko FX888D and have real good results running it at 750 degrees. Check here for more in depth info, including specific tools and installation techniques:
westcoastpedalboard.com/diy-pedalboard-patch-cables/
Great video demonstrating how to do this quickly and not overthink it. Here's a question if anyone is still reading.. On some of my SP400 patches they work fine if stationary but if I rotate them around in the jack of the pedal I might get static or funny behavior from the pedal. When I open it up and inspect I see that some of the strands of the braid are a little loose and wiry and could be scraping around inside the shell. Not enough to short the center conductor at all just around the shell. Is this my culprit here? In my case it's more of an issue due to I'm using braided shield cable where the braid is a little more hairy than dealing with this easy going spiral Mogami you're using. I thought about this during assembly but figured since it's just the braid scraping around a surface that's already grounded it shouldn't matter but it seems to. I suppose it's changing the resistance or something and causing the noise I'm hearing. Not sure what the fix is, maybe tin farther towards the cable body, maybe add some heat shrink around the exposed shield. Any thoughts?
Send us an email with a few pictures and the brand cable your trying to use. I would almost suggest buying some 2314 cable and re-soldering all your cables with that.
For the 2319 cable could you use SP400? Great video.
SP500 all the day 🤙🏼🤘🏼
westcoastpedalboard.com/product/patch-cable-plug-square-plug-sp500/
@@Westcoastpedalboard got it. Thanks :-)
Is there a specific gauge of solder?
Good Q. We use Iridium .032 60/40
Would these plugs work for connecting a speaker to amp?
It would, but it’s the wrong cable for that. Check the Mogami website for correct model of cable to use. Typically a much fatter gauge.
@@Westcoastpedalboard Sounds good, I got some Gavitt push back wire I'm going to use. Thank you 😊
I soldered my cable but I’m barely getting a signal. What did I do wrong?
You likely forgot to strip the black sheild off the conductor wire. Watch the video again 👍🏼
@@Westcoastpedalboard yes, I stripped the conductor wire as well. I was thinking maybe something was touching but not sure. I’ll try again. Thanks!
Call in next week if you still are having trouble. Should be easy if you’re following the instructions and using decent soldering equipment.
Did you get it figured out? I’m struggling with the same thing and I’ve definitely stripped off the shield.
@@two7plumbing then you likely have a cold solder. Did you watch the video in its entirety?
Do y’all ever have trouble with the sp400 tip? All of my straight plugs SPS4 are no issue at all but I keep getting tip connection shorts on the right angle plugs.
We don’t use SP400’s but I would assume since we’ve never had an issue with the 500’s, you might be doing something wrong. Are you getting the same short prior to soldering? If yes, then you have faulty plugs, if not, you’re soldering them incorrectly. Maybe sitting in the solder tabs too long with the iron. We ton everything, let it cool then quickly hit them at 750 degrees for the solder; not staying on the solder tab for more than a few seconds.
@@Westcoastpedalboard I am new to soldering and I very well could be messing up, but it seems only these plugs are the issue. I soldered all dc power and straight SPS4 plugs first with no issue. How do you check if plugs could be faulty?
@@daviddowns16 continuity test with multi-meter 👍🏼
what is factory of straight plug ?
Not sure what the question means, can you ask it again with more description?
@@Westcoastpedalboardlol ;) straight plug are made by ?
US made ?
@@tonylevin13 check out the Square Plug website, I think made in China designed in France or Italy
@@Westcoastpedalboard where can i find them ?
@@totojules8885 we have the part links in the video here, or you can search our website for SP500. hello@westcoastpedalboard.com if you have any questions 🤙🏼
What is that colored rubber sleeve that goes over the cable and under the ends. It's where companies put their name on the cable. Some kind of shrink tube? Do you guys carry it? I'd like to add them to my builds thanks 😊
We do carry that, but it’s not necessary when using Mogami 2319 and the sp500 or SPS5
@@Westcoastpedalboard that's great.
I understand it's not necessary....but I like the look or asthetics of a cable with that on. Can I make it happen?
I guess the question is will it not fit because the diameter of the mogami cable to those ends?
Thank you
@@lasv155 you could, but we don’t sell it individually. You’d have to get your own locally...
@@Westcoastpedalboard thank you 😊
@@lasv155 very welcome! Message if you need anything else ✌🏻
Could I use this cable for my effects loop to the pedalboard?
You could, but the better cable would be the W2524 found here:westcoastpedalboard.com/product/mogami-cable/
Very helpful video, but just to be clear, no one (including SnapOn) makes a single stripper/crimper tool that spans 10-20 AWG, and that's true for the red SnapOn one that you've shown here also. If its got 5-holes, then its either 10-18 or 12-20.
We added the note in the ticker post shoot. Thanks for the comment tho 👍🏻