@@djoftha213 there’s also surfaces made specifically for you to beat the shit out of the parts to ge then off😜almost as if someone thought about the right way to do when designing it🤷♂️until some pansy waist came along and invented his little tool.
@@nathangregory9002 the right way to do it is with a front end service kit the pansy is the guy bearing shit up with a hammer when you can just pop it out in 2 seconds with no effort
@@coyoteaustin17 i guess it really depends what kind of shop / customer base you have. Working in a dealership? Well most things are going to be nice and easy, in my experience the two main categories of cars that get serviced at a dealer are vehicles that are relatively new lets say 3 - 5 years old and newer, and then theres a smaller subclass of people who bring in their 20/25 year old car to get serviced in the dealer, and these cars are usually kept pretty nice. Not too many people driving piles paying dealership prices for service, they exist but not common. Then you have guys who get totally screwed working in independent shops in the northeast or your typical Mavis/meineke etc. Because half the cars that show up on your lift are basically rusty junk
@@machineman8388 i get it all, rusty and clean cars. what i meant is even if it’s extremely rusty it usually works out fine, now i’ve worked on some really really rusty cars but most of the time it works out, not all as intimidating as it seems, besides control arm bolts those mf always freeze xD even if brand new
@@AlphanumericCharactersI'm jealous! Everything here (Norway) rust to bits in a few years unless coated. And that only extend lifespan by a few years...
I figure That wasn’t the point. There’s no way you’d break it free from the ball joint by using a pry bar like that. The 2 lca bolts would still be tight so it would be getting held in place by the tight bushes. Just a.. easy.. way to move the control arm out of the way I guess.
@@iHackWaWx You're doing it wrong if you're damaging the ball joint. And you want to replace the boot anyway. There are some cars that you can break it loose other ways, but I'd say 3/4 of the time, a pickle fork is required.
So many people seem to be confused what this is for. It's not for breaking the taper of the ball joint. It's for when the taper is already broken free and you just need more leverage to pull the stud all the way out.
Everybody say in it went work where they from. It might not but its a pretty smart way to gain a little leverage or to create a leverage pint wherever you need it. Thanks for the tip
Those are soo good man, control arm hook thingy. But also if you've got a pipe wrench with big enough jaws, just some big old pipe wrench a villain uses to interrogate people's kneecaps with, you can also use that like 60% of the time. Sometimes it'll only grab from an angle you can't really push and pry the control arm in the right direction.
Good stuff i used the end of me old ratchet strap,, i’m talking a quality old ratchet strap hook,, don’t try it with a cheap one or u will b collecting ur teeth off the workshop floor 😬 😮
A short piece of chain was both free and has worked for me for longer than I care to remember. However this trick only works very well if the vehicle is up off the ground more than about 3 feet. An alternative to it for a vehicle on jack stands is a heavy 6 foot pinch bar or pry bar that you slide over the top of the lower control arm and under the body of the car and then stand on it or even put weight on the end so it stays down as you work.
That's how you get the parts to separate, if you don't give it a couple of good whacks with the big sledge hammer you will not get it off even with the 60 inch pry bar.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone maybe if it is a new car that haven't left the dealership in the area where I live, we have salt on our roads for 6 months of the year most things are like welded, in older cars the threads on fasteners even rust away.
@@stoutbolt8876 the tool he is showing is not meant to break loose the connection of the ball joint....just to pry the control arm down once the connection is loose
I've got one. Works on some, not on others. One of those tools that, for what it costs, is worth having in your toolbox, as you'll definitely find it useful.
Honestly once ball joint is broke free I have not found it not to work. So far I have been able to use it and get leverage for my pry bar on any control arm.
Rust doesn't have anything to do with this. It's not for breaking the taper loose. It's for levering the control arm out of the way so the stud clears it. The stud doesn't really come out of the taper any harder on rusty cars than it does on non rusty cars. Source: working on suspension for 7 years in upstate NY
It was obvious. Good to see you fussed up. Most on here have no idea or do and just wanna call you out. Maybe mention it in the video. Too hard for most to just read.
For those mocking this saying good luck in the rust belt etc.... I live in the UK and there's zero chance this would actually split the control arm from the ball joint.... BUT it would be really useful for getting it back on to hold the arm in the right place. It can be a nightmare to do it on your own. I usually use a pry bar but it slides all over, this would be a big improvement.
Great observation, this tool is not for breaking loose ball joint but giving you an easy spot to get leverage for pulling the arm down. I use a hammer to break loose ball joint
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yup i use a ball joint splitter (seem to remember that having a weird name in the US??), a lump hammer, and some "gentle" persuasion 😏
I have one of those s-hooks....it is absolutely worth the $15 price tag. Saves hassle especially on those arms that have no "holes" or spots to stick a pry bar
I finally got one of those! and the last time I needed it, the control arm was too fat for it to fit, so I busted out the ol sledge for the millionth time
Well damn,i just did my balljoint a few weeks ago and this woulda been so good putting everything back together besides using the prybar on what ever i can get leverage on
brake hack instead of bleeding brakes to put simple front pads just use a big flat screwdriver to press the caliper piston in for easy access to take off and put new back on .
OTC had the best tools when I was in parts. Every time I thought it wasn’t available I pulled out the otc catalog and there it was lol. Good quality too.
Oh yeah! I didn’t know I OTC sold these. I bought one just now, because one day in life I might need to use it. But it sure does make my tool box “mo sexy!”
I live in Ontario and I use a chain over the arm with a bolt through it underneath and while I or an assistant keep pressure on the prybar hit the ball joint seat with a hammer
i use some of the seatbelts from totaled cars. Rly strong, never had any doubts even lifting engines and pulling vehicles. Those things never give up if the surfaces are not sharp to start cutting through
Yeah I have seen other options but I am a flat rate guy and for like $16 or so this S Hook is so cheap and is so fast to use that I have no reason to try any other options. Thank you
What amazes me is all these guys work on metal all day, yet have to buy a case hardened S Hook because heating up and bending a piece of bar stock is too difficult.
Walmart carries the same tool. Its actually a 2 for one deal. You might already have one laying around. Cost 10 bucks. Not the tool but the hook on the ratchet strap. The hook is the same as the green ratchet strap or you can get the orange one it's thicker.
I use an old timing belt cut in half and vise grips, wrap the belt around the control arm with the belt teeth facing each other so they lock, clamp it then put a bar through the loop...it works a lot better than it may sound, the belt conforms to any shape and grips.
*laughs in rust belt states
Ohio🙃
Western NY. Whats the laugh, I made one 25 years ago and never not use.
@@twistednuts6062 *hangs on pry bar*
Im in nh and all the techs in the shop do this?
everyone in my shop uses it too.
Dude, you hammered the shit out of that control arm prior 😂😂😂
useless tool used for just holding down the control arm
With some CRC Freeze Off. It's the best penitrating fluid out there.
coz its not ur car so who cares, right?
How would the boss know I’m working if he doesn’t hear me beating the shit out of parts?
😂😂😂😂😂
😂 That's funny, but there are special tools to simplify every job .. or to just do it right, period.😜
@@djoftha213 there’s also surfaces made specifically for you to beat the shit out of the parts to ge then off😜almost as if someone thought about the right way to do when designing it🤷♂️until some pansy waist came along and invented his little tool.
@@nathangregory9002 the right way to do it is with a front end service kit the pansy is the guy bearing shit up with a hammer when you can just pop it out in 2 seconds with no effort
I swear lmao.
I like how there’s literally no rust. Dude where I’m at that ball joint is getting replaced bc I’m about to fuck it up.
Yeah
man i live in michigan, hardly have a rust issue when i do this kinda work in the shop, 9/10 they come out fine
@@coyoteaustin17 i guess it really depends what kind of shop / customer base you have. Working in a dealership? Well most things are going to be nice and easy, in my experience the two main categories of cars that get serviced at a dealer are vehicles that are relatively new lets say 3 - 5 years old and newer, and then theres a smaller subclass of people who bring in their 20/25 year old car to get serviced in the dealer, and these cars are usually kept pretty nice. Not too many people driving piles paying dealership prices for service, they exist but not common.
Then you have guys who get totally screwed working in independent shops in the northeast or your typical Mavis/meineke etc. Because half the cars that show up on your lift are basically rusty junk
@@machineman8388 i get it all, rusty and clean cars. what i meant is even if it’s extremely rusty it usually works out fine, now i’ve worked on some really really rusty cars but most of the time it works out, not all as intimidating as it seems, besides control arm bolts those mf always freeze xD even if brand new
@@coyoteaustin17 Wow! That's amazing!
Lol ya good to know that’s what it looks like with a brand new ball joint
Yup. It's too get leverage to pull down the ball joint
It’s so clean, no rust. Is that mechanic heaven?
I must be in mechanic heaven. Desert southwest. I use a torch maybe once a year.
@@AlphanumericCharactersI'm jealous!
Everything here (Norway) rust to bits in a few years unless coated. And that only extend lifespan by a few years...
@@AlphanumericCharactersI hate you!!! You are so fking luckyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Front end guy also here in Arizona; very few vehicles with serious rust.
I’m dead yea it was already out after all the hammer marks lol
Yes that was way too easy.
I figure That wasn’t the point. There’s no way you’d break it free from the ball joint by using a pry bar like that. The 2 lca bolts would still be tight so it would be getting held in place by the tight bushes. Just a.. easy.. way to move the control arm out of the way I guess.
Use ball joint splitter to break the taper first lol
@@Unclebob726 what if you’re reusing the ball joints? 90% of the time ball joint splitters wreck the joint as well as the boot covering it
@@iHackWaWx You're doing it wrong if you're damaging the ball joint. And you want to replace the boot anyway. There are some cars that you can break it loose other ways, but I'd say 3/4 of the time, a pickle fork is required.
That only works on new ball joint! I’ve literally had 20 ton press and beating with a 12lb sledge. Rust is a serious equalizer
Tool is not for breaking the ball joint loose, it is used to get leverage to pull the arm down once joint is broken free.
I use a chain with a hook. That way I can adjust the size 😊
Same here.
I have one of those and I wish I bought one a lot sooner! So simple and easy to use. Best of all it works!
Same here Bill. It makes life so much easier
I've seen another tool, that's like a large bar that pulls them down too, can't think of the name
What is the name ?
@@abelprieto8918 here is the link amzn.to/3Oyv4E8
I got one of those from an action recently in a bucket of bolts and never knew what it was, now I do thank you!
You are very welcome
A 8 inch peice of chain has worked for me for the last 22 years.
Yep, chain works fine. Chains are almost always free.
Vice grip C clamps work too
Yep.
That’s a good idea. Thanks man
thats all
I have one and it was one of the best things I’ve bought. I use a piece of 2X4 between the end of pry bar and control arm.
nice
Great
This is genius. Getting a few different sizes for the box now. Thanks for the video
Sweet.
I'v been doing suspension works for 30 years, and your tool would have save me a lot of pain.
Not complaining, just talking.
Thanks for the video.
Old pice of chain and good bolt work great!
Thank you
You just saved me from buying that tool!
I been using the same chain and bolt for 15 years
I use a ratchet strap
i know you already cracked it loose, but hell i'm sure it really does help on those stuck on parts.
Yup
BALLSHIT! you had already broken the taper on that ball joint.
You didn't know that?
You clearly don't work on cars enough. No shit 😂😂😂😂
Ok Buddy. 👐
Obviously I know that because I am sharing with everyone,.
It was a brand new control arm with new ball joint, the other side went on like butter but this side spun. It does not have happen all the time.
So many people seem to be confused what this is for. It's not for breaking the taper of the ball joint. It's for when the taper is already broken free and you just need more leverage to pull the stud all the way out.
Wtf, some of us need to take out life's frustrations on a ball joint
G clamp pry bar works well 👌
sweet
Just ordered one on Amazon for $15, thanks
You are very welcome and you will not be disappointed
Everybody say in it went work where they from. It might not but its a pretty smart way to gain a little leverage or to create a leverage pint wherever you need it. Thanks for the tip
Those are soo good man, control arm hook thingy.
But also if you've got a pipe wrench with big enough jaws, just some big old pipe wrench a villain uses to interrogate people's kneecaps with, you can also use that like 60% of the time.
Sometimes it'll only grab from an angle you can't really push and pry the control arm in the right direction.
Got it
That's a strap hook it costs 15$ I love them
I am kicking myself for not buying this a long time ago. I just did not know about it.
I’ve seen this around for a while still need to get one great demo👌🙌👍🏻🔥
Thank you. Yeah it's get one soon it makes life so much easier
Simple and practical I fuckin love these kinda hacks
Nice simple tool. Worth a try. Lived in Detroit fifty years. Rust made everything hard.
Nice. I use a chain the same way.
Very nice, I honestly had never thought about that
OK do this on a vehicle that has rust and has the original parts in it , and on a 25 year old vehicle. Let see it work then .
I was just thinking that
U obviously don't understand the use of it
The Superman emblem. Customer drives down the road and bends frame from pot hole road lol.
Nothing can beat a big hammer
*Laughs as I use a pair of welding vice grips*
Haaaaa bring that to south Alabama with the salt spray from the Gulf!! Ratchet strap parts!
Sure no problem
Calm down everyone, this good man just shows to us how easy to deal with control arm using this S-tool
Of course ball joint was previously separated.😊
Yes peace of cake...thank you engineer!!!
I usually attach my 3 hogs and let them pull but your way is fine too I guess
Good stuff i used the end of me old ratchet strap,, i’m talking a quality old ratchet strap hook,, don’t try it with a cheap one or u will b collecting ur teeth off the workshop floor 😬 😮
Very true.
Is that really faster than a ball joint popper?
A short piece of chain was both free and has worked for me for longer than I care to remember. However this trick only works very well if the vehicle is up off the ground more than about 3 feet. An alternative to it for a vehicle on jack stands is a heavy 6 foot pinch bar or pry bar that you slide over the top of the lower control arm and under the body of the car and then stand on it or even put weight on the end so it stays down as you work.
And u can use chain for meny other things
I prefer not to use the chain.
very true
Absolutely I used it twice it came off easily
Is it me or you can see the shine in the tip of the control arm, meaning it was beating as hell with a hummer.... The idea is good though
That's how you get the parts to separate, if you don't give it a couple of good whacks with the big sledge hammer you will not get it off even with the 60 inch pry bar.
Yes u can
@@NutsandBoltswithTone maybe if it is a new car that haven't left the dealership in the area where I live, we have salt on our roads for 6 months of the year most things are like welded, in older cars the threads on fasteners even rust away.
@@stoutbolt8876 the tool he is showing is not meant to break loose the connection of the ball joint....just to pry the control arm down once the connection is loose
I’ll be damnnn I knew there was a easier way
Yess
You can make one in about 5 minutes with rebar and stay that little bit richer.I have a hook I made over 2 decades ago
I've got one. Works on some, not on others. One of those tools that, for what it costs, is worth having in your toolbox, as you'll definitely find it useful.
Honestly once ball joint is broke free I have not found it not to work. So far I have been able to use it and get leverage for my pry bar on any control arm.
Good luck from the rust belt. Better get the torch warmed up
Ok
Rust doesn't have anything to do with this. It's not for breaking the taper loose. It's for levering the control arm out of the way so the stud clears it.
The stud doesn't really come out of the taper any harder on rusty cars than it does on non rusty cars.
Source: working on suspension for 7 years in upstate NY
I don't like to pull out
Ok
Oh wtf I just did my control arms, bloody hell. This wouldve saved me 2 hrs.
Awesome tool. I was doing the same thing with a piece of chain and a bolt 20 years ago.
Try on a car that is a but more corroded.
If it’s already loose this’ll do the job, if it wasn’t then it wouldn’t matter anyways
@@foojub6907 yeap, if its already loose, just use your hand 😂
The tool is not to break the ball joint loose it is simply to pull down the control arm to get it ready to come down.
Tool is only used to pull down arm after it is broken loose.
Yeah using your hand is not gonna pulla pull the arm down enough.
lol. y3a on a new rig. give it 5 years of road use. then you'll want a bfh
I use the BFH to break the control arms and tie rods loose, this is only to give an easy place for pry bar to get leverage for pulling down arm.
It was obvious. Good to see you fussed up. Most on here have no idea or do and just wanna call you out. Maybe mention it in the video. Too hard for most to just read.
That’s genius, yet so simple!
After u have already broken it lose .come on man we not stupid
I think you are because you never worked on suspension
Ok thank you
It is not for breaking it loose, come on. I am showing a tool to get leverage to get arm out of the way.
Brilliant! You need to be appreciated for this . I have never seen this one !
I just wish I found out about it sooner.
For those mocking this saying good luck in the rust belt etc.... I live in the UK and there's zero chance this would actually split the control arm from the ball joint.... BUT it would be really useful for getting it back on to hold the arm in the right place. It can be a nightmare to do it on your own. I usually use a pry bar but it slides all over, this would be a big improvement.
Great observation, this tool is not for breaking loose ball joint but giving you an easy spot to get leverage for pulling the arm down. I use a hammer to break loose ball joint
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yup i use a ball joint splitter (seem to remember that having a weird name in the US??), a lump hammer, and some "gentle" persuasion 😏
This video could have saved me a lot of money
Yeah I like it. Could even use it when working on the ground.
👍👏💪
I went and bought a s hook at hardware store for a couple of dollars and it worked.
I got this. I did not know how to use it. Thanks sir.
Your very welcome and you will use it all the time
Everyone acting like it’s not already been beatin out of the knuckle. This just makes using the pry bar to assist WAY WAY easier
Never seen it work so easy. Period.
Ball joint was broken free, the tool is to get leverage to pull down the arm and works that easy
Looks pretty easy with a new ball joint
I have one of those s-hooks....it is absolutely worth the $15 price tag. Saves hassle especially on those arms that have no "holes" or spots to stick a pry bar
Yes it is
Thanks I made one at home works great.
I just use a chain wrapped around the control arm to pry down. But it always needs proper persuasion to pop loose.
I finally got one of those! and the last time I needed it, the control arm was too fat for it to fit, so I busted out the ol sledge for the millionth time
You could also put the nut on the end of the bolt and give it a wack. It works very well and doesn't do any damage to the threads.
The ball joint is loose, this is to help pull the arm down
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yeah i thought it was very loose lol.
Well damn,i just did my balljoint a few weeks ago and this woulda been so good putting everything back together besides using the prybar on what ever i can get leverage on
Yeah it is for sure a time saver.
brake hack instead of bleeding brakes to put simple front pads just use a big flat screwdriver to press the caliper piston in for easy access to take off and put new back on .
Oh cool thanks man I needed help with that so thanks
And here I have been hammering the f*ck out of the control arm with my 3.5LB mallet and wiggling the arm around 😅😂
I needed that a week ago 😮
I wish I had known about this tool 18 years ago
You can use is random drive belt too , wrap around control arm closes to rotor , basically do what you did but use a drive belt . Works the same
Ok thank you
Man that Kool, I like it ,going to have to get one ,thanks !
Here is a link to it amzn.to/3I3d0BI
wow makes sense to me. i wish I had that info 3 months ago
OTC had the best tools when I was in parts. Every time I thought it wasn’t available I pulled out the otc catalog and there it was lol. Good quality too.
Works just like this , so easy
Never mind the marks from the hammer…
Oh yeah! I didn’t know I OTC sold these. I bought one just now, because one day in life I might need to use it. But it sure does make my tool box “mo sexy!”
I live in Ontario and I use a chain over the arm with a bolt through it underneath and while I or an assistant keep pressure on the prybar hit the ball joint seat with a hammer
I have the removal piece but damn this is actually nice idea
i use some of the seatbelts from totaled cars. Rly strong, never had any doubts even lifting engines and pulling vehicles. Those things never give up if the surfaces are not sharp to start cutting through
U bolt clamp works well too
Very true but it just takes longer then using the tool
SMA uses a tool he calls his "hockey stick". A large lever device that convinces rust belt vehicles' suspension parts (ball joints) to come loose
C clamp works great for that!
You can also loop a chain around the control arm to slide the pry bar through.
You could also use a ratchet strap
I use a small length of chain and a bolt to loop it around the a arm work perfectly
Yeah I have seen other options but I am a flat rate guy and for like $16
or so this S Hook is so cheap and is so fast to use that I have no reason to try any other options. Thank you
Sure there are a lot of options but this tool is so cheap that it would be foolish to not use it for me
I use mine literally every day all you need is the S hook a big a$$ a pry bar and an air hammer
The Gleithammer is the best Tool for me.
A chain with a bolt thru it works just fine
I’ve been using a small piece of chain wrapped around the control arm to do the same thing for over 20 years.
Three chain would take slightly longer
Me too...it's more versatile. I use a padlock instead of a bolt and nut to make it quicker
Great tool for holding the arms out of the way and to put pressure while you pop the joint
What amazes me is all these guys work on metal all day, yet have to buy a case hardened S Hook because heating up and bending a piece of bar stock is too difficult.
This hook is pretty slick but I’ve been using a c clamp for this for years now
Not always,you have to actually get the control arm to break loose from the balljoint.but the hook does help
You forgot to mention separating the ball joint stem from the control arm first.
Great tool, the old lead tech at my job showed me to use a chain. nut and bolt it together and works like so.
I wish I had heard of this sooner, I never thought about the chain idea.
Another tool that can sit in the tool box until you get a truck from Texas. 😂
I don’t think my eyes have opened any more than now in the past year
Sweet
Wish they had that back when I was working.
OMG yes, I really wish I had this 15 years ago.
Walmart carries the same tool. Its actually a 2 for one deal. You might already have one laying around. Cost 10 bucks. Not the tool but the hook on the ratchet strap. The hook is the same as the green ratchet strap or you can get the orange one it's thicker.
I don't think a ratchet strap Hook is that strong but ok.
I use an old timing belt cut in half and vise grips, wrap the belt around the control arm with the belt teeth facing each other so they lock, clamp it then put a bar through the loop...it works a lot better than it may sound, the belt conforms to any shape and grips.