How to Replace Sway Bar End Links
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Sway bar link replacement. Learn how to replace the sway bar end links aka drop links, on a Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, Saab 9-7X, Oldsmobile Bravada, Isuzu Ascender. This job is fast and easy. The stabilizer links I install are greasable which is great (and not common). So lets go replace worn sway bar end links.
Trailblazer Ball Joint Replacement: • How to Replace an Uppe...
Trailblazer Upper Control Arm Replacement: • How to Replace an Uppe...
Different Style Sway Bar End Link Replacement (Ford Ranger): • How to Replace Sway Ba...
The Part Website: www.mevotech.co...
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
Your videos not only make everything look easy, but I really think they do increase everyones confidence level when tackling projects like these. Great job, yet again (:
***** Thanks a lot bud! That is my goal! In reality, mechanics is pretty easy. You just need to know what you want to fix and have the proper tools!
So true man this video is a confidence booster. I believe ur video will help me fix my Saab 900's sway bar end links. Thanks for the upload, u have a new subscriber.
Great! Let me know how the job goes! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Cole Magee they do, his videos gave me the confidence to change my brakes and rotors and I did them successfully. Now, I'm gonna do sway bar links, tie rods, and control arms. I've watched other videos and didn't know about the Allen wrench part of the sway bar links. Gonna check and see if mine have that.
I find it needs about 30% confidence, 10% common sense and 50% skill
Honestly, The camera quality is that from another dimension. That is the only way I can imagine he'd be able to get the amazing images you capture. Such artwork, to be able to get the PERFECT lighting, PERFECT angle, PERFECT resolution and all brought PERFECTLY together with the precise information. Very well done, BAR SET!
Thanks a lot!
I’d struggled all weekend with the end link on my 98 Avalon. Until this video I didn’t realize I needed that T key to loosen it. Was about to grind the whole bolt off. Thank you, ChrisFix! Saving me time, and always teaching me something! Cheers
Hey, Chris. A tip for you when you need to replace this kind of end links again.
I'm a bicycle mechanic and some wrenches called "cone wrenches" would fit that hidden nut to prevent the bolt from turning on the new link very well. These wrenches are very thin, and come in all sizes. Look for them "cone wrenches" for bicycles. Park Tools makes very nice ones as well as Pedro's.
Let me know if you see this. :)
i have a ton of tools and had never heard of these! Thanks for the tip!
Yes haha I was thinking the same thing!
Just want to let you know you’ve taught me a lot and I’m working at a shop because of what you taught me!
I just watched Chrisfix videos for 45 minutes and gained more insight than i had in 45 years....upper control arm lower control arm ball joints bearings bushings swaybar end links body bushings...This guy deserves a bronze star with v device....or perhaps a silver star
No joke I have saved thousands because of you and they were thousands I didn't have so thank you I have little money and my vehicle still wears out lol thanks to you I have done my ujoints ...shocks....tierods in and out..ball joints and other worn parts I have a 2003 ram with 200K you have improved my life and helped me keep my family safe how can I thank you other than to say thank you
+Texas Chevy, I cannot reply to your comment for some reason so I hope you see this. I am just starting to use Mevotech parts because I am trying to find a reliable part manufacturer. They looked really well made, fit great, have the grease fittings, had good locking bolts, and look great. I just went offroad with the truck the other day because I wanted to go snorkeling and the parts worked great. Hosed them off after getting sand and mud all over them, greased them up and they work perfect. I use to have rattling in the front end, and now it is gone. Now I have it in the rear only so I will get those end links replaced. And when I do, I will go with Mevotech again!
Just a question, how are the Mevotech's after two years? I need to buy some sway bar links for my 2011 Ford Explorer and your video is convincing me to go Mevotech instead of OEM and Moog. I saw another video where the Mevotechs were failing early and making noise after 2 days. Also, what type of grease do I use? Should I use silicone grease or something to protect the rubber or should I use regular lithium grease? Also, do both wheels need to be off the ground to change them? Where did you buy yours?
One last question, do I need to constantly grease them?
On a Regular Basis, They wear very fast. Use a good, no a VERY GOOD
High Pressure Grease.
ChrisFix .. How to tell if your sway bar end links are going bad?
Your videos were very thorough in the past but anymore :-(
ChrisFix what line of mevotech are you using? I have reason to believe only one of their lines use the grease fittings, while the other lines do not. I want to ensure that I order the mevotech line that uses these grease fittings. Any response would be appreciated thanks in advance.
After having done it myself i click this video wondering "how do you get 9+mins out of a job that takes 5 mins?" Then I remember that chris doesnt skip any details. Another perfect video.
I mean, completely seized end link nuts exist. I watched this to get some ideas on removing mine but everything goes way too well in this video and I've learned nothing that helps my situation.
@@johngoepel5263 how did you get them unseized? I'm having a hell of a time removing mine. Can't get a good enough grip with a clamp and it's very rusted
Chris? You just saved my day! I was working on my 4Runner and could not get the bottom swaybar bolt to loosen. A friend mentioned over the phone about checking for a Alan Wrench fitting on the end... but I thought the back side. So I was stuck with a spinning ball joint and about to pull out my Oxy torch and just burn it off... When I thought "Hmmm, I know this video is not for my car but the links have a similar design on the bottom and Chris Fix always does a right to the point, clear video so just watch it" and then Voila! You showed me how to loosen that bottom nut! Thanks so much for making your videos!
You’re lucky for those links to come off so easily, I usually end up cutting those with my cutting wheel most of the time
They can get pretty rusty! I've had to do that once or twice
@@chrisfix thanks for your reply Chris , love your repair videos , you are an inspiration to all of us
I fought with these sway bar end links too long. Your video was extremely helpful. Finished the job in about 20 minutes once you answered my question
Great video. I like your straight forward 'no added BS' how-to's. Gives me the added confidence to tackle most repairs on my vehicles. keep up the great work!
cesaros11 Thanks a lot! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
great video, was thinking you would tell us some of the symptoms you would see before changing and after changing your stab ends
Yep, no BS like a 1 minute intro and 2 mins of what so and so had for breakfast. LOL
Greasable end links are the way to go 👍 I re-grease mine everytime I change the oil.
Glad to see you're staying on top of that!
So helpful! Was just told by the dealership that to replace both rear end links is $180
Good video! I sure referenced it a lot before and during my attempt on a 2004 Chev Trailblazer. My vehicle though, required a 19mm wrench (for the inner wrench flats on the link) and a 21mm socket (for the outer nuts), both on taking off the worn factory end links and to put on new Moog units. Neither the old, nor the new end links had holes for a Torx or Allen wrench at the stud ends. The Moog parts come with two washers per unit and I found out the hard way - do not put a washer on the stud mounting on the link side (inside) of the sway bar - only the control arm end! Otherwise, you end up with a knocking / clunking noise far worse than the rattling from the worn end link! Once I took off that one washer, everything seems fine. I don't know (neither did the parts person) why Moog would include two washers if you're not supposed to use them both (an extra?). Really, a proper fitting parts diagram / schematic and instructions should be included with a part, but then we wouldn't need to watch these good videos! (I know - it's a UA-cam conspiracy - LOL!!) Definitely a must (as shown in this video), is thread locker on the studs and nuts! Ratcheting wrenches are certainly worthwhile to have for this job and the fairly tight spaces to work in (which I didn't have on hand). I have to look at doing the rear sway bar end links now as I'd bet they should be done too after doing the fronts. I'm much more confident in trying this type of repair out. Thanks again for your assistance! Cheers!
+Byron Wolters Thanks and thanks for sharing your experience! I am glad you got it all figured out and nice work!
+Byron Wolters Just as an addendum to this procedure that I had experience with - I had to remove even the two washers on the control arms, as they too started to cause a clanking sound at every bump. No one seems to know why. Also, as I had removed and reinstalled the lock nuts so many times by this point, the locking "teeth" were worn down enough that even with thread lock, the nuts would loosen, even though I had allowed the thread lock to cure for a good hour before driving. I ended up getting some metric "Nylock" style lock nuts as a replacement to the toothed style which came with the new links (I even put thread lock on for good measure). What a difference! I've not had an issue since doing that. I notice a lot of replacement link kits seem to do without washers and have the nylon style lock nuts. Funnily though, here in Canada, I had a bit of a problem finding the proper sized metric locking nuts, I had to go to three different specialty fastener dealers, before I found the right size! Luckily, they were all located fairly close together - one would recommend another and so on. Yet Canada is supposed to be metric and so would think there wouldn't be a problem! It all worked out in the end, so it was a good learning experience.
as a diy mechanic; the only thing i would add to just about all your videos; when you say things like “dont worry about the rubber; you are removing it anyway” - what if you are not removing it anyway? or when you describe the torx/alen key spot on the bolt - what happens when that strips? or if you dont have vice grips that can get in that narrow slot? You can use a normal set of vice grips and clamo the sleeve tight. when people are DIY mechanics, and working on rusty cars things dont go the way they do in your videos and it can be disheartening. its awesome you show how easy the task is; but at least prepare people for the grim reality of fighting with bolts. also, you talk about thread locker, but you never use anti seize; which for someone who works on their own cars is the elixer of the gods. i love your videos which is why i take the time to write this
Chris, great job with everything you do. I changed my sway bar end line now today on a 12 year old vehicle. Yes, one but was tough though crazy Texan like me got it done. The only real provlrm(s) I ran into were 95 degrees (fat old man like me was sweating good) and additionally next thing I knew I was cleaning the wheels (insides never cleaned$ not only on the front wheels though clods the same on the rears. With three kids in sports this cost me $22.75 vs dealer was several hundred. Please keep up the videos for rookies like me.
I did mine today! Than realized I had put the washer on the wrong side on the passengers side luckily everything was still available, just took some elbow grease lucky I didn't have to cut mine out. Thanks Chris !
Hey Chris,
I'm impressed with your vedios. you are very detailed in your explanations and you have the best camera work. an image is worth a thousand words. Thanks for taking the time in making life easier and less expensive.
Jake
Yet another video to get me ready for an unfamiliar repair. Thanks!
Thanks for the visual tutorial, about to do this job tomorrow and feel a lot more confident about how easy it is.
Wow, this video may be 6yrs olds, but is still very relevant. I'm an expat in the UK, and brother it saves a shed load if you can do it yourself. I Just had my KIA C'eed go through is yearly MOT(safety inspection) and they noted the offside(driver side) drop link boot is ripped. Your video has prompted me to do it in my drive, if I can get a good day on the weekend to do it. Thank you for all the videos; there are several that apply at this moment, so my diy list is getting longer. 👍🤞🇬🇧 I may have to stop watching just until I complete the list I already have🙈
Thank you Chris...I’ve learned so much from you and I’m a little bit older than you nearly 50 so hats off to you! Take care and looking forward to all you videos...from Texas
This was back in the day when ChrisFix didn't wear gloves. :)
Or speak in his ultra high energy voice
definitely one of the best car mechanics channels on YT 👌🔧 tysm
Thanks!
I have a 1991 Aerostar that needs some link repair and this has given me some excellent information on how to get the job done. Thanks Chris
Thank you again Chris for taking your time in responding so fast, have a great day and can't wait to see more of your videos.
yoda4you No problem! You too!
I have never heard of Mevotech before this video but now I am definitely going to try them out!
Justin Bond They are great products and you will not be disappointed!
They really do look like quality products. I have some loose ones that may just get some attention now. Lol :)
DE Nichols That opinion was developed by looking at lots of them online. The Mevotech even look better than brands claiming OE quality. Still needing them, but mulling over OE like replacement from Mevotech or an upgrade. For how I usually drive, I'm not in a rush.
Cool accidental double meaning! "...not in a rush." lol
Great tip with the needle nose pliers, I striped mine and now the Allen Key won't work, I'll try that tomorrow and hopefully I"ll get it out. Thanks for your videos Chris, Yours are the best I've seen on the internet you should consider becoming a Tech Teacher. Cheers!!!
Nestor Dominguez Thanks Nestor! Let me know if you get it with the vice grips!
Have used a few of your videos as guides and they have made all my projects on my grandson's car much easier - it also helped us pass inspection . Thanks.
Love these older videos dude, I'm about to do this exact job on my 2006 Honda FRV - this was a huge help
The mechanic in town was charging me 263.48 to replace the 2 front sway bar links. I looked up the parts, 30.00 bucks for both and saved myself 233.48 dollars. It's very messed up that mechanics take crazy advantage of people that seem not to know about cars. Smh... thanks Chris!
Chris fix is a veteran....on point,great simple instructions no bs 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to see you went with the Mevotech, very underrated or unknown brand from Canada IMO. I went with them over the Moog on my 04 F150 @100,000 miles, still on original links. Could not be happier with the front end improvement on side to side play. While I had them off I replaced the sway bar bushings as well, that bar is heavier then it looks! Nice work Mr. Fix!
Rob Parker Yea man! I really like their stuff! I try to find aftermarket brands that are cheaper than oem yet have the same or better quality and Mevotech fits that role! Yea, that sway bar is huge lol! The solid ones are really heavy!
Moog is Chinese now
I have a 2012 mustang GT and needed to replace the rear sway bar end links and found it easiest to remove the entire sway bar. you then have a much better chance at holding the bar to put the end links on.
IF GOD HAS A REFRIGERATOR............YOUR PICTURE IS ON IT . THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE GREAT INSTRUCTION VIDEOS. COULDNT DO THESE PROJECTS WITHOUT THEM. THANK YOU
haha thanks John! I'm glad the videos are helpful!
I agree with Cole, great job on the videos. You present the information very clearly, and laying out the tools is going to be very helpful. I think that's the one thing I find myself going back and forth getting is tools.
lol you really had it easy on that job. Mine were so stuck I had to drill them out but with the wheel bearing and rotor in the way it wasn't easy. Also, I hate those allen key hole they stripped just like any others. Took me 4 hours to remove the two. Four hours just for 4 bolts!
+David Cazes Dang, that stinks.
Same dumbest design ever
1313rugbyfan I bought moog sway bar link instead, they use a bolt for a 15mm wrench and you can hold the base with a 17mm wrench, so you have a lot more leverage when you put them on/remove them.
+David Cazes I bought the same design gotta love when they come up with these great ideas on after market parts
Watched your video and I did it! Never worked on my car like that before. Thank you!
Nice video! I like the demonstration of what a failed end link looks like. It's a good idea to make sure these are tight before tackling struts or other more expensive repairs.
I'm surprised I've never read anyone else do this, but I discovered a little "trick" doing it on our minivan. If you take off the easier-access nut on both ends first, you can then swing the bar around and get better access to the back ones. Granted, the bar will now swing freely but usually you can brace the support wrench (or allen key in this case) and hold everything still in a much easier position to remove that nut. This may or may not work in every application but it's something I'd certainly try if I had to do them again.
Good call on the ratcheting wrenches, too. I grabbed a set of gear wrenches on a Woot deal a few years ago and am shocked at how convenient and useful they are.
MikeTheITGuy Thanks for the tip Mike! That is a good idea with loosening the easier to access bolt first and moving the stabilizer bar out of the way for more access!
Ratcheting torx bits work if you don't have a wrench with ratcheting feature ...
Mainerism Thanks for the tip!
You just can't beat a ChrisFix video.
Thanks to you, I get to fix my Trailblazer (and make videos too)... thank you very much
good clear and enjoyable how to. I'll do this to my car now instead of the garage as it seems quite simple
Never heard of Mevotech. I am going to give them a try! Thanks for showing me how to replace end links. This looks easy enough. I was quoted $400 for my car and it has a similar setup to this so I think I can do it.
Chris Yea man, they are really nice! Give them a try and do the work yourself. You will save a lot of money and the job is relatively easy!
I have seen a few of your videos now Chris and they are very straight forward to understand and easy to follow. Great stuff keep up the good work 👍
Finally! My make and model for the job I am doing. Thanks Chris!
Thank you for the tip. I will try it tomorrow on my 2007 Buick Rendezvous. Very good quality in this video.
al bundy Glad the video was helpful! Good luck!
Daaamn I almost went with Mevotech myself but settled for Moog. Great video as always Chris.
Thanks a lot!
Moog quality going down
Found your videos very helpful. I'm on a chrisfix marathon. subscribed!
cesar g Haha Awesome man! That feels awesome that someone is having a ChrisFix video marathon watching session!
Love your channel man, just discovered it today and I have to say all this info is really relevant to almost any vehicle! Used this to determine whether my BMW needed this replacement. Good for noting observations!
Aki1ro Thanks a lot man! I am glad you found my channel! I try to make my videos relevant to as many cars/trucks as possible even when I do a project on a specific car. I always try to include tips and tricks in my videos so if I am working on my truck, you can still apply those tricks to your BMW!
ChrisFix Yea I've been watching a few videos of yours and went ahead and ordered a couple suspension pieces based on your troubleshooting techniques.
I didn't have torx fitting I used a die grinder. I used mevotech they were smart enough to put wrench fitting so you can tighten them up. Thanks for the video.
You are the f*#^%in man Chris!!!!! Learned so much from you...you always come through clutch!
Awesome!! Glad the videos are helpful
Getting the nuts off is always the hard part but like I always say, "if it wasn't born there is gotta come out." Great video Chris. Always thumbs up.
Lol thanks a lot!
Changing out my links today. Thanks for the instructions!
Hey +ChrisFix I used this vid to change the Sway bar links on a 1997 Suzuki Baleno Wagon and it worked flawlessly.
+Tang0Fox1 awesome man! Glad to hear the video helped and nice work!!!
I think I’m gonna use your method. Someone else posted a video where the grinded it off and they cut into the mounting bracket on the lower control arm lol. This is better
I'm doing this on the front of my Pilot today. Thanks Chris.
Hey man! Love your vids, very helpful. Can I pre-grease the sway links before installation if the spot is tight? And love your new hummer! I want one too! Best of luck!
I had a the issue on my Genesis coupe. Ordered the sway bar end links and sway bar bushings from MOOG. Changed it on both sides, the noise went away and the car drives better than ever.
Thanks for the problem shooting most people need new ideas how get off rusty bolts
great job boss . ur videos are very informative. they help me working on my jaguar ..thanks keep up the excellent work
Awesome Oscar! I am glad they are helpful! I will have a really good one on a Jaguar relatively soon!
Wow glad you've got better video since then
hex and torx bolts....
*my worst enemies*
Colby Sinor theyre also called quick-strip bolts lol they are a pain in the ass
I want to give u an advise , u can ingect oil (engine oil) into the ball joint and u will get a long live service from the joint
Ur the best Chris fix, wish I had a friend like u buddy, keep it up
I've been watching your videos for over a year. I've saved thousands on maintenance! Thank you! I am thinking of replacing my front end links as well. What kind of symptoms would the car emit if the endlinks are worn? The left endlink is fine but the right one I can easily twist with two fingers.
+Romulo Rodriguez the end links will begin to click over bumps when they are bad.
Nice job, easy fix too. I really like joints that can be greased.
A LeBlanc Thanks bud! Yea, I like that a lot too!
Great video! Just FYI, Moog makes very high quality parts too. You can't go wrong with anything made by Moog.
Thanks!
All I use is Moog parts.
You can't go wrong with anything Moog.
This video helped a lot, i was redoing the brakes on the passenger side and i found that the link popped off of the bottom where it connects to the lower control arm
Very, very well made video. Thank you Chris!
great vids! im replacing the control arms and sway arm bushings and all that on my 99 eclipse soon. even though im mechanically inclined just seeing a general idea before hand with someone who knows wat theyre doin is a great help
shadow0imposter Thanks man and exactly. I watch videos all of the time. I try to include little tips and tricks in my videos so that even if you know how to do the job, you learn something new!
well keep it up man! im a motorcycle tech so cars isnt my thing but ive learned more from your vids than most others! big thumbs up and subscribed!
Awesome! New videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Great vid Chris! The end link bolts on my '05 Trailblazer EXT LT 5.3 LH6 V8 were 21mm, same as the upper control arm bolts. They must be beefier links on the EXT's with the V8.
@ChrisFix did you have to make sure the car was leveled before installing?
as usual great video Chris. thanks good education for us newbys :)m
My end links don't have the same port for inserting the grease! DX they seem to already have grease? 2000 toyota c orolla.. plz help!
Are those Mevotech parts durable and worth it?
Smashing professional job, as allways mate :-))
They do look smart, like the grease nipple, they can be maintained.
Ahh the "Anti roll bar drop links", i did remember there name at last lol.
Dont good tools help you loads, that ring ratchet tool made that job nicer :-)
zx8401ztv Thanks bud. Yea, they are a great product! It really looks good too. I got them put to good use today with an offroad session to get to a lake I fished and they held up great. Cleaned them off, greased them up and you woudnt even know I was offroad! And yes, Anti roll drop links was what I was looking for when we were talking about the other ways to say stuff! I will add it to the tags! One thing I learned working on anything is that the right tools make the job that much easier! Thanks again bud!
Hi Chris, awesome video and very well explained.
I changed mine on my Honda a couple weeks ago but I forgot to put the grease since I don't have a great gun, I noticed a few days ago a little "squeaky" noise and I was wondering if this noise could be related to the lack of grease in the joint.
I would really appreciate your help, thanks.
yoda4you Yes, this is due to the lack of grease. Get grease in it asap before you ruin your new end links.
Thanks Chris! Big help and good description
Air tools are a wonderful thing
Just a tip to anyone who cant get the top nuts off, after an hour of reefing on the wrench underneath the car I gave up. Then I had the idea to let the car down and use the floor jack as leverage to loosen the nut. Put the wrench on a slowly jack up the other end of the wrench till the nut loosens a little. Then jack the car back up and take it off all the way. It worked for the driver side and then the other side I had to have the car jacked up and used another hydraulic jack to do the same thing with the wrench. Forgot the nuts would unscrew opposite ways so the passenger side took a little longer haha
The challenge I've seen on anti-roll bar drop links is when the sway bar has them under pressure. To get to an exhaust repair for a catalytic converter I had to remove my sway bar twice to get the drop links positioned just so. That system can have a lot of pressure on it to create the anti-sway.
I anticipate this only being an issue if you are removing the bar at the same time. This would apply if you had to replace the bushings.
Another mechanic had been in there when a transmission mount went bad. A bolt had sheared off from an accident at least 120k miles earlier. They had decided 2 out of 3 bolts was good enough at the time. They were 120k right.
It's risky to buy a salvage title. All the money I saved 9 years ago got spent on this repair, lol. Worked out for me. I've been through the whole car now. That's the only thing that hadn't been done right.
Sorry, I love to tell stories.
Back on point. When the last mechanic pulled this apart to drop the transmission enough to get that sheared off bolt out, he didn't set up the anti-roll bar quite right.
On my 1999 Chevy Prizm there are tabs that must get set in. It took me a few hours to figure out. The whole system goes together really easy if you just put your 17mm bolts on without getting the tabs in right.
What I mean by tabs are these squared washers. If you set their tabs into the anti-roll bars just right it looks like it should be you have to work back and forth on each side.
When you do this with the proper torque it sets up the anti roll pressure a lot higher. Made a very small difference that I could feel when driving gently, so in reality it probably does a lot.
DE Nichols Yea, that is why I did one side at a time. Why was the car salvaged? It is crazy how a little adjustment can make a big difference right? And how something so small can take so long when you dont really know for sure what to do (which is why I make these videos). Thanks for the story and comment!
I have no idea why it was salvaged. Whoever did the restoration missed very little. Except inside the engine (unless you unclude gaskets) and transmission I've worked on everything on this car and everything else was as it should be.
Wait.
There was one more surprise. The gear box was a mix of oil and water. Discovered when the axle went bad in response to the transmission mount. (It should be the same as what is in your transmission.)
So that was the one other surprise from it being a salvage title. The manufacturers were honestly masters at their craft for that to not matter over the life of the vehicle. It had to be related to the accident as none of those systems leak.
DE Nichols sounds like your car was flooded if there was water in the gear box
Not a bad theory.
Though in this case I had another idea.
A lot of mechanics say water when talking about coolant. Having seen it vomiting out on the street from where the axle goes in I'd have to say it looked like the results in an oil pan after a head gasket failure. Oil and coolant. There is no water line from the car being soaked.
I wasn't there back then, so it's anybody's guess. Lol.
By the way, it took me a while of thinking on it to have any other idea.
Thank you so much!!!! I enjoy your videos so much!!! So happy I found your channel!!
Good stuff Chris, I'm working on getting me some gear wrenches aswell.
***** Thanks man! Yea, they are helpful for projects like this. Cant have enough tools I guess lol
Good video, I'm getting ready to do this on my 2002 Envoy and this information helps.
where do you find the torque specs??
Owners manual
I always tighten the old end links till they break. Much better than stripping the hex out of the hole.
the ones on the good ole ranger were simple...in hindsight, albeit more complex. Turns out after my struggling, the factory bolts were slightly longer than the new ones provided in the hardware kit. Was a snap after that. It's the little things.
Your videos are great to follow, good work mate
***** Thanks a lot man!
Need to add Ratcheting Wrenches to my tool collection
Chris - Wondering if you can please do a detailed video on replacing the rear axle leaf-spring bushings and / or leaf-spring shackle bushings on a RWD truck ?
I have to say... The MEVOTECH Labor/Saver Chassis Products are the best! I did use Moog But I have found that the quality of MEVOTECH Chassis products are a step up in quality. The best thing is that they are designed for the technician in mind! Smart Technology...
your the best !! you have help me so much... Thank You.
I don't know if that's what i need... My car makes a knocking noise on bumps and gravel roads and when im turning a little aggressive right, i feel the left side of the car vibrating what can it be?
Easy job i just did all 4 on my 2011 ford escape handles way better
Great video!! I need to do the same to my trailblazer. Thanks!! You're saving me money! Lol
APPRECIATE UR VIDEOS, WHERE CAN I FIND SOME FROM THIS YR.
Something weird about this video....Chris doesn't sound all that happy and jolly in this video as to compared all his other videos... I could wrong. Anywho, love your videos!
It's an old video. I wasnt as enthusiastic back then.