Revell: Ford F-150 Raptor Part 3 Black Plastic Trim and Window Molding
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2015
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"Crapload," that's awesome. 😆 Appropriate, those Ford trucks have a crapload of black plastic, to be sure. Very clean building, thanks so much for sharing.
I'm stunned at the precision of airbrushing. Even shooting through the side window, a possibly up through the sunroof, still no flat black on the red. Wow. I must get the airbrush up and running. Amazing work.
Great video as always, you make it look so easy...have a great weekend..
Another great step in detailing.
Another great tutorial, Thanks........JIM
Great stuff!!!!
Good Job !
thanks for ur help u know I like to wach ur videos
u do some good work Dude
Held off on my Raptor to see what you'd do, cheers man. K)
your really good
...I will be using lacquers to do the window trim on an '04 GTO. (for the 2nd time as i screwed up the first time-I had polished the body THEN masked and "spray bombed" the trim-came out terrible as the Tamiya tape did not adhere well to the polish.) My question is-how long did you wait before applying tape over the previously painted trim parts?
Are you spraying a clear coat before unmasking? Appreciate the great videos!
very nice video I'm new with this I just painted a plastic model but looks bad my it was very dirty I was using a create pearlized paint but looks bad I don't know why I know I'm learning do you have any recomendation thanks
+Erick Centeno Make sure the surface is clean before painting, and join some forums to share your work.
help! I just can't get a "proper" clear coast with my airbrushes. I use them for my aircraft kits; but I get a much better, even result on my car models using old-fashioned rattle cans on my cars. I have two iwata brushes and an compressor as well. Is it just me having this problems of a gloss finish with air brushes; or should I use different paints to airbrush my models cars. All help will be appreciated; by the way I do soak the rattle cans in warm water as suggested. My best luck has come from Dupont rattle cans for my cars. Any help; or am I just wrong in paint applications? THX.
Its probably the brand and type of clear your using in the airbrush. Id suggest zero paints 2 k clear or gravity colors multi dose clear
did you use tamiya masking tape or just regular tape?
+Thepierre1986 Tamiya
we need some way to get Zero Paints in the US ......
osokfed mike No you don't,
There is gravitycolors.com/us/ in the states, works just as well. with the same results. and no hassle getting it in the country ;)
How do you feel about Autoair paints?... I live in America and cannot get Zero Paints.... I dont know if you've ever tried Autoair paints but if you have please give me you opinion... Thanks!!
eltonthornton717 Hey man I thought I'd share my opinion since I've used Auto Air and also live in the states where Zero Paints aren't available.
Auto Air is water based, where as Zero Paints are solvent based. Auto Air is similar in that it dries with a matte finish and a clear coat is required. I've never used Zero Paints, but what I know of them, they can be sprayed without thinning, depending on your airbrush and pressure and what the application is. In general, Auto Air isn't pre thinned and has to be thinned for model use, as they're not paints made for modelling. Auto Air paints were developed to airbrush automotive graphics and murals, and not so much for an full scale automotive paint job. Auto Air is a brand from Createx, and Createx also has another line of paints called Wicked paints, which are similar to Auto Air but a little easier to use for modelling as they're made for even more detailing of graphics on 1:1 cars, so they're much thinner.
Another important thing about Auto Air is that they need to be heated so they cure. Zero Paints can air dry and be very durable, but for Auto Air, a heat gun or hair dryer is strongly recommended to "bake" the paint and let it cure. While it is water based, Auto Air paints are much more durable than most acrylic modelling paints like Vallejo, Tamiya, Mr Color, etc. Auto Air paints can also be cleared with most clear coats without much of an interaction, if they're fully cured. I've used enamel and lacquer clear coats over an Auto Air color base with no interaction. An automotive urethane clear is also suitable for these paints, and strongly recommended. Always test when using different solvents in paints, though.
Sorry for the long post, but in my opinion, Auto Air has a steep learning curve, but the benefits are worth it since Auto Air paints( or wicked paints) are cheaper than Zero Paints ( let alone Available in the U.S) and are durable and very friendly with other types of paints. The color range doesn't match 1:1 car codes like some Zero Paints do, but the color selection is very wide and there are pearls, candies, and even translucent types of paints available in the Auto Air line.
Andy Lamby Holy cow! Thanks Andy!!, nothing more to add then this:
Zero paints might not be available in the US but there is gravitycolors.com/us/ its a similar paint, designed for scale modeling and works really well with great results.
+Andy Lamby Thank you so much.... I dont mind the long response at all it was very informative.... I'm just getting started in airbrushing models and I nees all the info I can get so once again thanks alot!!!!
+The Scalemodeling Channel Thanks alot man I will definitely check it out.... Love your channel I never miss a vid.... can't wait to see the finished Raptor!!!
Has anyone mentioned you have a robot voice?
Yes. Multiple people. Why?
anyone else cringe whilst watching this video