This IS a Re-Upload. We wanted to address a BUNCH of the comments/critiques/concerns so we decided to RE-UPLOAD with the changes that were suggested. We've now completed a successful and comprehensive How-To on this subject! Please show this some support and if you have additional How-To requests, please drop them in the comment section below!
Always connect positive first. Examples: Negative first -> accidental wrench contact with chassis while connecting positive completes circuit, risks welding wrench and exploding battery. Positive first -> wrench contact during positive install does not complete circuit, no problems. wrench contact with chassis during negative install completes no circuit, again no problem.
WhiteSpeed13 one of the biggest changes was moving the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker should be as close to the power source as possible so if there is an issue the breaker trips at the source you don’t have that live connection running any longer than needed. They also routed the power cable through the car this time like it should be instead of under the car.
Much better! Tiny point, if you shorted the battery posts, the circuit breaker wouldn’t trip. Which is why you correctly say you need the boots to cover the posts. Only shorting parts after the breaker will trip it. 👍🏻
Much respect to these guys i ordered some stop tech front brake pads and I received rear brake pads I contacted them and they not only gave me a full refund but told me to keep the brake pads it was so unexpected super cool of them to do that much respect to the throtl team!
The excitement I felt for you guys at @12:49 when you cut through that wire like butter....I was right there with you on the opposite side of this screen man that was so satisfying lol
Good on you for correcting the mistakes and reuploading, however I would suggest researching when commenters say something you aren't sure about. You don't want to connect negative first because it makes it easier to short the battery to the frame by accident. Until the negative is connected shorting the positive to the frame will do nothing because there is no path to the negative terminal for the power. This is less important with modern batteries that don't release hydrogen around itself that could potentially be ignited by a spark, but generally speaking, it's a good habit regardless.
Hi, a tip I learned was that; it is still important today to connect positive first, because negative first could short or wipe the ECM by accident in cars
Thank you thank you thank you! I'll be doing this to my Evo IX shortly and yours is the first tutorial I've seen that didn't just say, "ayyy pop the hood run the wires you're good to go!" Thanks for the in-depth explanation! Subbed.
I stopped the video at the beginning because I wanted to comment on how humble the creators are! It is true to me that I don't have the best ideas but have ok to good ideas but like better ones!
Awesome video once again! Glad my two cents was worth the time it took to edit the original and reupload *THE RIGHT WAY TO DIY* video. Keep up the awesome builds guys!!
Excellent move running the wire inside the cabin. It’s nerve wracking drilling through the firewall and a pain running the wire under the carpet but it’s so much safer doing so. Nice re-upload! Keep up the good work, gents
interesting, I guess routing the wire under the car and placing the breaker on the engine bay are big no no's. thank you for this, I'm going to relocate my battery to the trunk as well and didn't know 80% of the stuff you showed here xD I though I just need a longer wire, a tray and bolt stuff down.
Not a big no-no. It really depends on how your car is being used. In this particular car the install was perfectly fine/safe but, for "How-to" purposes and us not knowing what car that eventual watchers will be modifying it was critical for us to make a more comprehensive video. Lesson learned. On to the next.
Nice work . I still wanna see the old battery tray in the bay deleted. May as well do the old air box mount delete too. Will show guys how easy a partial bay shave can be with just a drill bit and some basic paint skills
There are OEM's that run power under the car... but it needs to be very well protected, and must be tinned copper wire (tinned OFC) - unless you have a very specifc reason to do it. just run it inside of the vehicle like a car stereo install... and yes fuse or breaker always as close to the battery as possible.
@@LXIXTurner i not talking about horsepower im talking about voltage wise for smoother and constant current stop being so thick skulled man not everything is horsepower this and horsepower that
@@chu13chu131 run power from your main battery to your second battery, ground your second battery to frame, then from there you wire your other stuff to that battery
Ok this may some newbie question, and I think its not explained in the video. What I do with the negative cable that was originally mounted under the hood? :)
Safe to say that I just caught up with all the videos 😂 completely 51 videos . That was crazy man literally had to go back to 5months ago but we back !
Super video, fajnie wyjaśnione, miło się to ogląda👍Mam pytanie, jest jakieś przeszkoda by kabel minusowy (ground) uziemić nie tylko do masy w bagażniku ale również dodać go przez całą długość samochodu jak plusowy i uziemić rownież w okolicach silnika? Słyszałem o jakiś "pętlach" które wówczas mogą się pojawić, ale chętnie się dowiem, Raz jeszcze- dzięki za fajny film.
So what do you do with the original ground wire that connects to the battery? Do you connect it to the same post as the positive lead on the stud you installed?
19:30 Thats wrong according to what Ive always been told, you connect the positive lead first and then the ground lead, as once the ground lead is connected anything metal on the car is an earth connection.
Should be a dry cell acid based batteries vent dangerous gases so in a trunk or hatch is bad also grounding to chassis is bad it should be grounded to block as well
Grounding to the chasis in the back will work but will cause a higher current draw during starting becasue of the increased resistance seen across the whole chasis. Ground for the starter is returned through the engine block, hence the factory ground on the right side of the block close to the starter. Best installation it to provide a return path as close to the starter as possible i.e. the factory location. The higher draw could cause the battery to struggle as it weakens. Sounds like the increased draw isn't a real issue with others.
Thank you for correcting the old video. No people, this is not the same video as before. I was waiting for the vehicle fire report on the news when the guy says “but this is the way the guys on the internet told me to do.” All jokes aside. Love your guy’s vehicle style.
What's the point in using such high quality cable and then earthing to the thin sheet metal in the boot? Why not run a negative back to the engine bay and do it right?
Just gunna throw this out they clean job no concerns but figured I'd ask why didnt you use high conductive welding cable with copper eye ends for a stronger current
Totally off the subject of this video, and with respect. Still trying to get a link so, not just myself but anyone who feels the same about the two side HOOD vents you have installed on the Subaru wrx, in Blue, last build featured on your channel. Thanks in advance and looking forward to seeing more great content. From WRX UK🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧😁😁🤘🤘🤘
Question, if the battery is something like 600 cold cranking amps, and the starter presumably draws a few hundred amps, why doesn't the circuit breaker pop if its only a 150a breaker?
good shit either way you install them under car you just need to secure the cables great so road debri doesn't try ripping them loose ,installing the cables inside just keeps the cable safe from road debri just make sure you route the cable where nothing will rub it but other then that your solid just like Mickies install is still enjoyed the vid even this way it's a good way to see how you should do things.
Relying on a plastic tray to hold a battery in the event of a collision could result in the heavy battery tearing the J-hooks out of the soft plastic and send the battery flying forward. Inside a trunk, maybe that won't end up in personal injury, but in an SUV or station wagon, it's a projectile inside the passenger compartment that nobody wants to stop! The breaker next to the battery needs to be sized to allow the starter to draw more than the usual so the breaker doesn't pop and strand you. 140A or 150A might work for a small engine, but with bigger engines, the starter draws more amperage and the breaker needs to be suitably sized.
Did I hear that wrong or..don't you always take the negative off first when removing a battery and put the negative on last when installing a battery or have I been doing it wrong the whole time?
Guys, im an audio installer, after you done all that with the terminal, you should apply heat on it, then melt some tin in till you see the copper sunken. Greetings from ARG!
That circuit breaker won't short on the sheet metal? I have the same one and it has a plastic backing but when you run a bolt through it the bolt is contacting the metal so it won't short the positive with the ground?
Lordy, this reminds me of my 1992 class at MEI, Mirimar... You guys need a Throtl model with four-0tt DD specs and a pink tool belt complimenting your diagrams.
For the guys doing this on newer cars, how did you get around the fuses on the front positive terminal? Doesn’t have the convenient 3/&ths connectors like this
Just run a wire from the positive terminal on the first battery to the positive terminal of the second terminal. Use a fuse for each battery, as close to the positive wire as possible. Find a new grounding point for the second terminal. Consider using a circuit breaker between the two batteries.
I've always used soldered terminals, covered in heavy heat shrink, with silicone inside, especially if you don't garage the car. The crimp style terminals always begin to gain impedance over time.
What kind of solder? Solder melts when it gets hot enough, as you know, so I've always avoided it on power supply ends. I've seen it melt and start fires from frying circuits and grounding out power supplies of LiPo batteries and residential power.
@@jeffcivjeep7 I use whatever high temperature solder pellet comes with the terminal. 30 years or more without any issues on various jobs, it's been reliable.
What battery did you guys end up using. I had an Odyssey 680 battery in my EG and like you mentioned it didn’t last long. I ended up putting the battery back in the engine bay. The other issue I had was the car would lose power and I think it was the circuit breakers fault. Have you guys experienced that before?
Is it a good idea to upsize the stock ground wire from engine to chassis when relocating the battery? Seems logical that wire should be larger like the power wire or maybe it doesn't matter because it's so much shorter?
It will low the voltage and amps delivered to whatever you connect too, try looking up what gauge wire is ideal for car battery’s since the wires also should be tough
i think it's a safer solution to add a breaker just after the battery, if your cable was injured in the car you could not stop the power. a better way would be to add a rally external breaker with a warning label.
If the car is crashed they cut the battery cables. Generally first thing done on a non track situation with any fire dept that knows what they are doing.
Maybe there's a sealed box, if One can be found. I'm thinking about that too, because mine is a Hatchback and the Cabin is Not Separate, like a Trunk. 🙏
Hello I need alittle help. I'm relocating the battery in my lacrosse super to the trunk due to space issues. I need to know if I'm doing this rt. I routed the gauge 2 power cable to the engine by going under the back seat into the carpet and zip tied to the original wiring harness then back up to the bottom of the dash through the original harness grommet and zip tied all the way up to the engine. The original power cable disappears as it wraps around my v8 engine so was going to connected the new cable to the original using a jump post and ground the engine to the location I removed the battery tray from. Then connect a 100amp circuit breaker in the trunk going from the cable to the breaker then to the battery. Please tell me if theres something I'm missing coz it feels like theres something else I need to install. Thanks
Ohyea the battery is found cable is going through a grommet in the wheel well grounded to the chassis under the car. Theres a plastic wheel well that sits over the tire, the cable is between that and the metal frame then down underneath.
This IS a Re-Upload. We wanted to address a BUNCH of the comments/critiques/concerns so we decided to RE-UPLOAD with the changes that were suggested. We've now completed a successful and comprehensive How-To on this subject! Please show this some support and if you have additional How-To requests, please drop them in the comment section below!
throtl I saw the original, what were the changes made ? Just adding the positive post rather than running straight into the breaker ?
It looks familiar!
Always connect positive first.
Examples:
Negative first -> accidental wrench contact with chassis while connecting positive completes circuit, risks welding wrench and exploding battery.
Positive first -> wrench contact during positive install does not complete circuit, no problems. wrench contact with chassis during negative install completes no circuit, again no problem.
WhiteSpeed13 one of the biggest changes was moving the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker should be as close to the power source as possible so if there is an issue the breaker trips at the source you don’t have that live connection running any longer than needed. They also routed the power cable through the car this time like it should be instead of under the car.
Much better! Tiny point, if you shorted the battery posts, the circuit breaker wouldn’t trip. Which is why you correctly say you need the boots to cover the posts. Only shorting parts after the breaker will trip it. 👍🏻
Much respect to these guys i ordered some stop tech front brake pads and I received rear brake pads I contacted them and they not only gave me a full refund but told me to keep the brake pads it was so unexpected super cool of them to do that much respect to the throtl team!
I’ve never seen a channel re-edit and reupload a video like this and be totally transparent about everything. Mad respect. Keep it Mickey spec.
The excitement I felt for you guys at @12:49 when you cut through that wire like butter....I was right there with you on the opposite side of this screen man that was so satisfying lol
Good on you for correcting the mistakes and reuploading, however I would suggest researching when commenters say something you aren't sure about. You don't want to connect negative first because it makes it easier to short the battery to the frame by accident. Until the negative is connected shorting the positive to the frame will do nothing because there is no path to the negative terminal for the power.
This is less important with modern batteries that don't release hydrogen around itself that could potentially be ignited by a spark, but generally speaking, it's a good habit regardless.
Hi, a tip I learned was that; it is still important today to connect positive first, because negative first could short or wipe the ECM by accident in cars
I've always known to connect positive first then negative, and opposite when disconnecting.
Thank you thank you thank you! I'll be doing this to my Evo IX shortly and yours is the first tutorial I've seen that didn't just say, "ayyy pop the hood run the wires you're good to go!" Thanks for the in-depth explanation! Subbed.
Always coming through with that knowledge!
I stopped the video at the beginning because I wanted to comment on how humble the creators are! It is true to me that I don't have the best ideas but have ok to good ideas but like better ones!
Awesome video once again! Glad my two cents was worth the time it took to edit the original and reupload *THE RIGHT WAY TO DIY* video. Keep up the awesome builds guys!!
The fact that you guys re did this how-to really shows throtls dedication and passion for its community😭😭🔥🔥I freakn love you guys🙏🏽😈
Thank you Martin
I love this video a lot! I like the circuit breakers chosen to use for the power lines. So many nice parts!
Excellent move running the wire inside the cabin. It’s nerve wracking drilling through the firewall and a pain running the wire under the carpet but it’s so much safer doing so. Nice re-upload! Keep up the good work, gents
Run the main power feeds, power and ground, together put not under carpeting. Perhaps along the side bottom sills inside the car.
Enjoyable content, i cant wait to watch your next video,good work
interesting, I guess routing the wire under the car and placing the breaker on the engine bay are big no no's. thank you for this, I'm going to relocate my battery to the trunk as well and didn't know 80% of the stuff you showed here xD I though I just need a longer wire, a tray and bolt stuff down.
Not a big no-no. It really depends on how your car is being used. In this particular car the install was perfectly fine/safe but, for "How-to" purposes and us not knowing what car that eventual watchers will be modifying it was critical for us to make a more comprehensive video. Lesson learned. On to the next.
Didnt see the first one but this one is very detailed and comprehensive. 👍
I probably did not see but, does the alternator ground wire connect directly to the chassis ground? The alternator spikes won’t damage the components?
Super indepth - the explanation on the whiteboard was a great intro - thanks~!
Make one more video on this, just for safety reasons 😂
We're good with 2. 😂
Lol for real
Nice work . I still wanna see the old battery tray in the bay deleted. May as well do the old air box mount delete too. Will show guys how easy a partial bay shave can be with just a drill bit and some basic paint skills
Thought of Large Shrink Tubing, to Cover the Positive Terminal Stud Up Front.
Great Video!!!
There are OEM's that run power under the car... but it needs to be very well protected, and must be tinned copper wire (tinned OFC) - unless you have a very specifc reason to do it. just run it inside of the vehicle like a car stereo install... and yes fuse or breaker always as close to the battery as possible.
Fair play to you lads.that an excellent reloaded video. 👍🇮🇪
The way he says 'ought' instead of 'oh' is really cute 🥺
Can you do how-to of how to add a second battery for other accessories and more power?
Lol batteries dont add horsepower
@@LXIXTurner i not talking about horsepower im talking about voltage wise for smoother and constant current stop being so thick skulled man not everything is horsepower this and horsepower that
@@chu13chu131 run power from your main battery to your second battery, ground your second battery to frame, then from there you wire your other stuff to that battery
This is the proper way of "How to" :)
This is awesome! Planning on doing this on my car soon, also really like those exhaust tips.
Ok this may some newbie question, and I think its not explained in the video. What I do with the negative cable that was originally mounted under the hood? :)
How to series for the win
Safe to say that I just caught up with all the videos 😂 completely 51 videos . That was crazy man literally had to go back to 5months ago but we back !
That is Awesome!
throtl 🥶
Super video, fajnie wyjaśnione, miło się to ogląda👍Mam pytanie, jest jakieś przeszkoda by kabel minusowy (ground) uziemić nie tylko do masy w bagażniku ale również dodać go przez całą długość samochodu jak plusowy i uziemić rownież w okolicach silnika? Słyszałem o jakiś "pętlach" które wówczas mogą się pojawić, ale chętnie się dowiem, Raz jeszcze- dzięki za fajny film.
So what do you do with the original ground wire that connects to the battery? Do you connect it to the same post as the positive lead on the stud you installed?
Amazing!! Great work!
19:30 Thats wrong according to what Ive always been told, you connect the positive lead first and then the ground lead, as once the ground lead is connected anything metal on the car is an earth connection.
Got a question the breaker its a line and a load side which one do i connect to the postive terminal to my battery
Should be a dry cell acid based batteries vent dangerous gases so in a trunk or hatch is bad also grounding to chassis is bad it should be grounded to block as well
Grounding to the chasis in the back will work but will cause a higher current draw during starting becasue of the increased resistance seen across the whole chasis. Ground for the starter is returned through the engine block, hence the factory ground on the right side of the block close to the starter. Best installation it to provide a return path as close to the starter as possible i.e. the factory location. The higher draw could cause the battery to struggle as it weakens. Sounds like the increased draw isn't a real issue with others.
Already watched on the first upload and still watching it because it's awesome..I am the 71person to like this video.
Ground last always not first. That way you can work on positive terminal without shorting anything out.
stay safe guys very nice tutorial vid like for dummies, no way to get wrong
Thank you for correcting the old video. No people, this is not the same video as before.
I was waiting for the vehicle fire report on the news when the guy says “but this is the way the guys on the internet told me to do.” All jokes aside. Love your guy’s vehicle style.
Nice job guys! ✌
What about a ground for the starter? Would using a rivnut on the the frame work?
I ran my power wire the same way on my s14. always thought it was sketchy running it under the car.
What's the point in using such high quality cable and then earthing to the thin sheet metal in the boot? Why not run a negative back to the engine bay and do it right?
Cant wait for some more civic content!
Can you tell us where you got the RED CAP for the terminal stud?
When you bolted down the battery tray, did you have to go underneath the car to put the nut on the bottom side?
Just gunna throw this out they clean job no concerns but figured I'd ask why didnt you use high conductive welding cable with copper eye ends for a stronger current
Totally off the subject of this video, and with respect. Still trying to get a link so, not just myself but anyone who feels the same about the two side HOOD vents you have installed on the Subaru wrx, in Blue, last build featured on your channel. Thanks in advance and looking forward to seeing more great content. From WRX UK🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧😁😁🤘🤘🤘
It is a seibon carbon fiber hood available on throtl.com 👍🏻
@@throtl so it's the whole hood and not an option to buy the hood side vients?. Thank you for the reply 👍👍
@@cassiejvance7496 - Correct! throtl.com/products/sei-hoods-seihd0809sbimp-cwii
Great 👍🏻 video. Thank you .
Throtl ViP squad Good morning Mickey, Rickie awesome battery relocation on the sick 240SX 😊👍
Question, if the battery is something like 600 cold cranking amps, and the starter presumably draws a few hundred amps, why doesn't the circuit breaker pop if its only a 150a breaker?
I think you crimped the ground wire lug upside down. The point of the crimper should go on the slit in the lug.
Great vid! What Breaker did you use or better how many amps is it for?
At 2 min 57 seconds it shows 150A
good shit either way you install them under car you just need to secure the cables great so road debri doesn't try ripping them loose ,installing the cables inside just keeps the cable safe from road debri just make sure you route the cable where nothing will rub it but other then that your solid just like Mickies install is still enjoyed the vid even this way it's a good way to see how you should do things.
Relying on a plastic tray to hold a battery in the event of a collision could result in the heavy battery tearing the J-hooks out of the soft plastic and send the battery flying forward.
Inside a trunk, maybe that won't end up in personal injury, but in an SUV or station wagon, it's a projectile inside the passenger compartment that nobody wants to stop!
The breaker next to the battery needs to be sized to allow the starter to draw more than the usual so the breaker doesn't pop and strand you. 140A or 150A might work for a small engine, but with bigger engines, the starter draws more amperage and the breaker needs to be suitably sized.
I was thinking metal, or at least aluminum to keep things lighter.
Is it working properly still now
Can we also swap battery with no problem
I like ur work shop and also ur country
Did I hear that wrong or..don't you always take the negative off first when removing a battery and put the negative on last when installing a battery or have I been doing it wrong the whole time?
What is preferred, under the car or through the car? Pros/Cons of each? Just trying to decide what to do on my 1976 Nova
Guys, im an audio installer, after you done all that with the terminal, you should apply heat on it, then melt some tin in till you see the copper sunken. Greetings from ARG!
That circuit breaker won't short on the sheet metal? I have the same one and it has a plastic backing but when you run a bolt through it the bolt is contacting the metal so it won't short the positive with the ground?
Lordy, this reminds me of my 1992 class at MEI, Mirimar... You guys need a Throtl model with four-0tt DD specs and a pink tool belt complimenting your diagrams.
Disconnecting battery is negative > positive. Reconnecting is positive > negative.
For the guys doing this on newer cars, how did you get around the fuses on the front positive terminal? Doesn’t have the convenient 3/&ths connectors like this
Ur vedios are lit it helps me in this quarantine
This was awesome !
Mines in wheel well its pain and can't go up in size cause there no room
Now yall just need to do a video on how to install a 2nd battery in vehicle. That would we be useful to me in particular
Just run a wire from the positive terminal on the first battery to the positive terminal of the second terminal. Use a fuse for each battery, as close to the positive wire as possible. Find a new grounding point for the second terminal. Consider using a circuit breaker between the two batteries.
Like from Ukraine. Love you videos
Interesting ground point
Does the negative cable just stay in the trunk connected to the chassis? Im brand new to this whole car thing
GREAT VIDEO!
I've always used soldered terminals, covered in heavy heat shrink, with silicone inside, especially if you don't garage the car. The crimp style terminals always begin to gain impedance over time.
What kind of solder? Solder melts when it gets hot enough, as you know, so I've always avoided it on power supply ends. I've seen it melt and start fires from frying circuits and grounding out power supplies of LiPo batteries and residential power.
@@jeffcivjeep7 I use whatever high temperature solder pellet comes with the terminal. 30 years or more without any issues on various jobs, it's been reliable.
I Really in enjoyed Watching the Amazing how to Relocate a Battery to the Trunk Good Content
I'm definitely doing this to my 71 Challenger 6cyl
This was very well thought out and presented. Also i fuckin love those SA3R's on the 240
What battery did you guys end up using. I had an Odyssey 680 battery in my EG and like you mentioned it didn’t last long. I ended up putting the battery back in the engine bay. The other issue I had was the car would lose power and I think it was the circuit breakers fault. Have you guys experienced that before?
what is the maximum length do you recommend from battery to the circuit breaker?
1 -2 ft and secured down
Is it a good idea to upsize the stock ground wire from engine to chassis when relocating the battery? Seems logical that wire should be larger like the power wire or maybe it doesn't matter because it's so much shorter?
It will low the voltage and amps delivered to whatever you connect too, try looking up what gauge wire is ideal for car battery’s since the wires also should be tough
Awesomeness
try to make modifications to the Toyota Corolla A101 car
How much feet of 0 gauge did you guys used for the car thinking of doing this but not sure how much I need?
17 feet is what most amplifier wire kits come with
Hey throtl, what size circuit breaker are you running in your system?
i think it's a safer solution to add a breaker just after the battery, if your cable was injured in the car you could not stop the power. a better way would be to add a rally external breaker with a warning label.
The breaker is mounted just after the battery.
If the car is crashed they cut the battery cables. Generally first thing done on a non track situation with any fire dept that knows what they are doing.
Can I use the stock distribution post that comes by the fuse box in a dodge stratus?
I don’t see parts list
any way to prevent the bare metal surface where the negative terminal is from rusting?
WD40
What amp circuit breaker is best for a battery with a 600-700 cca range?
Need to make sure I watch this so I can do it to the sc300
Good vid, but may I ask necessary to consider the poison gas leakage inside the trunk problem? thanks.
Maybe there's a sealed box, if One can be found. I'm thinking about that too, because mine is a Hatchback and the Cabin is Not Separate, like a Trunk. 🙏
Or I'm considering an AMG Battery.
Hello I need alittle help. I'm relocating the battery in my lacrosse super to the trunk due to space issues. I need to know if I'm doing this rt. I routed the gauge 2 power cable to the engine by going under the back seat into the carpet and zip tied to the original wiring harness then back up to the bottom of the dash through the original harness grommet and zip tied all the way up to the engine. The original power cable disappears as it wraps around my v8 engine so was going to connected the new cable to the original using a jump post and ground the engine to the location I removed the battery tray from. Then connect a 100amp circuit breaker in the trunk going from the cable to the breaker then to the battery. Please tell me if theres something I'm missing coz it feels like theres something else I need to install. Thanks
Ohyea the battery is found cable is going through a grommet in the wheel well grounded to the chassis under the car. Theres a plastic wheel well that sits over the tire, the cable is between that and the metal frame then down underneath.
What kinda shop can do this if i cant do wrk myself?
Why is it good practice to put the ground on first before the live?
Can you post links for the components you used?
How many AMPS breaker?
Isn’t this old
Yes. Please watch the video or read the pinned comment.
They moved the power wire from under the car to inside the car.
throtl oh alright lol I just seen the video good shit though
So did you connect ALL the POWER and GROUND on that single post?
Ye
Where can we purchase the wire and what gauge is it also the tools used is there a webpage I could look up
bro only said it 30000 times
outstanding!!!
All the previous cables that went to the battery are not mounted to chassis right? Doesn’t show in video
They go to a distro block you mount in the bay