Moving the Battery to the Trunk
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- To prepare for some changes in the engine bay, I need to move the battery to the trunk.
Optima Red Top Battery, Model 34/78 - amzn.to/3yro99K
Battery Mount, works with 34/78 battery - amzn.to/3MpdXVc
Power Wire, 1/0AWG, stranded copper, 25 feet - amzn.to/3CnCDsn
Circuit Breaker, 200A, black - amzn.to/3ekTS5D
Copper terminals, crush-style, made for 1/0 AWG wire - amzn.to/3rIwG4f
Battery Terminals - amzn.to/3CK8NQk
1/2" Split Loom, black - amzn.to/3RMBbW9
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 9 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
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#krusebuilt
#kruseview
#Mustang
#1966
#fastback - Авто та транспорт
Great job on making this video, it is very informative. When I relocated my battery on my former 1965 & 1966 Mustang Fastback, I used Arc welding cable and ran it through the interior to the engine compartment.
Yeah, I’ve heard using welding cables is a popular option. 🙂
Thanks for choosing OPTIMA Batteries! We hope you can find a long-term solution for mounting that includes using your Taylor battery box. In the unlikely event a battery is severely-overcharged, the fumes it vents are both flammable & toxic and should be properly-vented to the outside atmosphere. Please keep your REDTOP fully-charged to at least 12.6 volts whenever possible and it will serve you well!
Thanks for the heads up!
That's pretty cool getting a comment from Optima
Excellent video. Nice clean install. Thank you for posting.
No problem!!
Thanks for the great video and thank you so much for using the same size positive and ground cable! So often I see guys use a nice size positive and then a 4 or 6 gauge ground, and then wonder why they have electrical issues. Electricity can only flow as much as the smallest wire.
Thanks! :)
Good job Andy! I like the music choice on this one!
Thanks 👍
And thanks for the parts list.
No problem 👍
Great installation video!!
Thanks! 👍
I would paint those fresh cut holes, on a microscopic level rust starts and that's just an invitation. Good work on the vid love the content
Thanks for the heads up. :)
BEAUTIFUL 1966..............
Thank you!! :)
I did this with my 83 camaro, worked great, I used the rear seat seat-belt bolt / hole to tie in the ground to the body / chassis, (No rear seats in my car) and ran the positive through a protective sheathe up through the firewall via a through seal able bulkhead grommet, up to a multiple distribution buss bar, mounted on the inside fender of the engine bay, worked great.
Yeah, there’s lots of good ways to get the power wire up to the front of the car. Using those grommets are a life saver when the wire has a tendency to rub on sharp metal edges. 🙂
Nice job!
Thanks!
Good mod dude. 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Great work Andy. I did the same thing to my car except I used a battery box with a vent tube going under the car so I could run a regular battery, plus I personally don’t like exposed batteries but it looks great. I think you’ll really like it, it’s nice having that extra room under the hood. Keep it up brother!
I purchased a Taylor battery box and Moroso cutoff switch, but I found that it was difficult determining the best place for it with out compromising other details in the trunk. It's fine for now, but I may end up using that battery box down the road. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel gotcha, yeah I had to cut out my spare tire carrier hook in my trunk.
I was impressed with your work. Some constructive criticism - I saw you "crimp" the cable end with pliers. You should ALWAYS use the proper crimper for the cable end. Poor electrical connections WILL lead to problems down the road. Please take this the right way as I'm not complaining. I really get a lot of insight from watching you do this stuff and explain the benefits.
As far as cable routing, how about staying on the inside of the trunk and running in the trough in the door sill. Still have to enter the engine compartment through the firewall, though. Oh well, more brainstorming...
Thanks for the heads up.
Your rats nest of solenoid wires looks very similar to mine. Still a to-do here. Great mod on the car. If you ever are planning to race it you might want to consider a shutoff switch external to the body (maybe under the plate?). Looking forward to seeing the engine mods you had to make room for! I think I have a clue!
I have a Taylor battery box and Moroso cutoff switch, I just couldn't find a good place for it in the trunk without some compromises. Mods are coming in hot!
Not really a rats nest doesn't look too bad actually I've seen way worse!
I've been wanting to do that with my camaro.. I will be looking forward to this video!
Awesome, I hope it works out for you. :)
Camaro??? GET OUTTA HERE!!! YOU ARE IN THE WRONG PLACE!!!!
Just kidding, my friend… 😆😁😎👍
@@Galactusz007 I have 4 Fords, and 2 Chevrolets. The Camaro project is something I am doing for my daughter, because she loves Transformers. We are turning it into a Bumblebee replica.
Ha Ha, Andy! This time you don't get to have me spend money on a new project!! I beat you to it on this one brother. I ruined my red top in my old fox body a few years ago using the wrong charge mode on my charger. The redtop side post are great for adding accessories too. Take care, and blessings from Motown/Dearborn
There's always the next video.... :)
@@AndyKruseChannel lol
So my idea as I was watching this (this is just an idea for myself, not making any recommendations but you're welcome to use it or critique) was still using the breaker in the trunk area but instead in that little alcove where the trunk platform dips down to meet the inner quarter panel. Some people have those areas boarded up or otherwise made inaccessible but for others, like mine, its still open (and prone to catching any small things left in the trunk area lol or water if it's not sealed up). Unless I'm mistaken, it's pretty much the same place that you drilled the hole to feed the wire through to so mounting it there could play well as it'll be in line with the current wiring path and if it get's mounted on the inside side, it'd be hidden away and kind of act as a kill switch at the same time (Though I'm still going to install another one in the cabin to use regularly)
Enjoying watching your videos, man! You've helped me with my build a few times already and I plan on referencing back to your videos a lot more in the coming days as I begin in on the big tranny swap, new tires and wheels (Thank you again for those specs!), and more
I'm glad you're able to use these videos on your build.
I had several ideas of how and where to route the cables and mount the circuit breaker. In the end this worked, but I'm not 100% sure it'll stay this way. We'll see how time goes on and if I need to make any changes. :)
I like this a lot I'm gonna do the same thing with the same breaker, battery and battery hold down it's all really clean and simple!
Fantastic! Maybe look at spinning the battery 180 degrees so the terminals are on the back side. It'll give a little more clearance between the battery and the trunk hinge. :)
@@AndyKruseChannelso I did this complete mod about about a year ago and it worked great for awhile but I don't drive the car because it's not on the road I'm still building it, I noticed after about a couple months maybe a dozen times of starting and moving the car that the breaker would trip sometimes I seem to be having more problems with it more frequently now I believed I used 0 gauge welding wire I don't know if I possibly have a faulty breaker or maybe I should use a 300 amp breaker what do you think?
@@rustybritches6747 Hmmm, if you're using 1/0 Gauge wire, that should be large enough for your starter at that distance (that's really the only reason why you need that large of wire). My guess is the breaker is faulty, but you shouldn't need to go to a 300A unit, a 200A unit should be fine.
Another thing I was thinking (way out in left field) is your starter needing too many Amps to turn over the engine. For example, I have a high compression engine (10.5:1) and so I needed a starter that could do the work. Maybe your starter is working too hard to turn over your engine and therefore pulling a ton of Amps, ultimately tripping the breaker. :)
Absolutely run a ground from the front bumper bracket to the engine block where your alternator grounds, I melted my negative battery terminal right at the battery.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
I understand the benefits of trunk mounting the battery, my only thought was did you consider running directly threw your car and down the inside rail, drill 1 small hole threw the firewall? The reason I was thinking about that is less exposure to the elements, no pinch point where you come on the outside of the frame rail. Just my opinion, thanks for another great video!
I explained in the video that the crossmember attachment point for the trans is in the way, or I would have done exactly what you were thinking. :)
Thank you for sharing your 66 mods. Yes, please share your idea on how to clean up the solenoid. I have been trying to figure out a way to add a few relays and fuses to help with cleaning everything up.
An easy way to clean it up is use the Ignition terminal (or the terminal on the back end of the ignition switch in the dash) to trigger a relay that you can mount anywhere (maybe under the dash). Then run a power wire from the either the battery or the battery terminal on the Starter Solenoid through that relay and to a distribution block. This block can then feed several devices that need a switched power source. This is what I did in a earlier video, and I still have that block mounted under my dash. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you , sounds like something I can do .
Hi Andy. I already have twin Optima batteries in the trunk of my '65 fastback but wanted to see how you mounted yours. That sped-up cable terminal install was pretty fast on camera...did you crimp those terminal ends? I had to pull enough cable up out of the trunk and onto the floor so I could smack my terminal crimper with a 5# hammmer, then tuck it all back inside the trunk. Was wondering how I missed this process in your video?
I ran extra wire up through the hole in the trunk that goes to the battery and crimped the terminal. After I connected that terminal to by circuit breaker, I pulled the excess wire back through the hole in the trunk and proceeded to the run the wire under the car up to the front. :)
Good job except for using a black conductor for 12 vdc hot. Red for power and black for ground. I know Ford did it, but it’s not a good practice. Also, you need to solder that pretend crimp you did with those channel locks. That is not an acceptable crimp at all! Cheers.
Thanks for the heads up.
I’ve thought about running it like the factory tail light wires but under the passenger sill plate and I think a 2 gauge will work but that’s a future me mod. Any concern with not running a sealed battery box that has a breather for the battery fumes that may float around in the trunk and possibly to the passenger compartment?
Also what did you do with the engine block ground again? Just mounted it to the apron?
I debated about running the cable internally, but if I ever had to service it, I'd have to remove everything again to get to it. This route seemed simpler.
I have heard it's not a good idea to put unsealed batteries (like the unit I removed from the car) on the inside of the car. Not so much about the fumes, but the corrosive nature of those types of batteries is not good. If the trunk was better ventilated then it might not be as big of an issue.
Yes, grounded to the sheet metal in the engine bay. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I’ve definitely thought of the servicing too but talked to friends with batt in trunk and one has had it for 8 years and has only replaced the battery so far. Good to know about the optima battery that is not a concern that will help my build thank you for your content and follow up as always!!!
I added a 67 battery tray with hold down bracket in my 66 FB. I have a Die Hard battery.
Yeah, I've hear that can work. :)
I tan mine through the car into the engine compartment and mounted the starter solenoid in the trunk with the battery, also it's not only the size of the wire also it's the strand count.
Yeah, there's lots of ways to run the cable from the trunk.
Got a question if you can help dont have a clue about whats the correct ampage i should use for the circuit breaker here is all the stuff i got going on electric water pump,dual electric fans,electric fuel pump msd 6al-2 box and hvc 2 blaster coil "the blue one" oil,water,volts gauge,rpm gauge and trans temp gauge and optima red top battery and using 0 gauge ofc copper neg and pos battery cables 'thanks'
The 200A breaker I have in my setup is more than enough, even for your planned upgrades. The high amperage breaker just needs to be big enough so that the starter doesn't pop it on a bad day. The rest of your electrical components will be relatively low amperage, and they should all have their own fuses anyways, even though everything is coming off one battery cable. :)
Better place more space away from rust better waight distrabution also great spot for trunk speakers.
Yeah, I've wanted to do that move for quite some time, and I'm glad I did. :)
Hi Andy. Just curious, do you need the room for an air induction system?
Ooooh, that'd be really cool!
A few more holes here and there and you will have it
@@richardporter4281 In the Biz we call that weight saving measures. :)
I didn't see you crimp the actual cable ends before you heat shrunk?
The magic of editing. My crimp jobs looked ugly, but secure. I elected to skip over those when I was editing the video. :)
Andy ddd you crimp the connector?
Yes, otherwise it would fall off. :)
Not using red for hot and black for negative bothers me.
You and me both. :)
How is that breaker working for you?
So far so good, no issues. :)
Should consider moving solenoid back to the trunk. Then use a 4awg wire for your alt and accessories.
ya it's 2 wires back to the trunk three including the trigger wire for the solenoid.
But the 600 amps from battery would only be active when you turn the key and the 4 awg wire would carry the small amp stuff back to the battery separately at much lower amps.
Maybe Use a junction box in the wheel well or on the firewall for your 12v source from the battery. That would clean up the wires.
I was watching this cuz I was considering running a always hot battery wire across my car.
Under the car seems safest for fire purposes. But the route seems awful close to the exhaust. I'm am still undecided on which way to do it.
The always hot wire seems like alot less work.... just more risk...
Nah, that way sounds more complex and would require more items to purchase and install. Plus, there's no need for the solenoid to be located near the battery, and adding all the wiring to comply with the other terminals on the solenoid sounds like more work. :)
@Andy Kruse ya I appreciate the simplicity of just running the hot wire. I might just Douthat and insulate heavy where needed.
24in big block radiator coming soon???
I like your thinking!
I guess you no longer plan on securing the spare in the trunk??
Never had a spare tire, so I'm good! :)
Man fuck shit , that’s a beautiful car
Haha, thanks!
No heater?
Eagle eyes!
Why not rotate the battery 180 degrees such that the ground terminal is below the hinge. Plus the terminals move closer to the sidewalk. Yes I know “there’s room” and “nothing touches”; but … it just feels wrong.
I guess I could rotate, I think everything will still workout in the opposite direction.
The shorter the cable from the battery to the starter the better.
So move the starter to the rear of the car, got it! :)
17:58 Music?
Yes, there's music in the video. As much as I'd like the sounds of the tools to be musical, I need some filler. :)
Need to make space .... for a procharger .... ? hahaha
Procharger, twin-turbo, or a coyote are all on the table, I just don't have the funds! :)
Sorry, you had me until I saw you crimp that terminal with your channel lock pliers, keep a fire extinguisher in your car and check those connections frequently for signs of overheating.
It's ok, if the car burns down then I'll have something new to talk about. :)
It's too late to say it, but mounting the breaker to the battery retainer seems like a bad idea as far as future battery maintenance is concerned.
Not sure what you mean, it's mounted to the battery strap and that strap has to come off if I ever needed to remove the battery.
Simply placing the battery where it SHOULD be.
Yeah, and it was fun to do too. :)
I'm anticipating some form of forced induction in the future 🤔 I do love a boosted vehicle 😁✌
Shall I set up a GoFundMe?
@@AndyKruseChannel honestly I'd toss a few dollars your way if you did 😁👍
More holes in original sheet metal once its gone it gone forever
Awesome, so drill more holes? Got it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Lighter weight, just like swiss cheese pontiacs. 👍
Try using liquid electrical tape
I’m up for trying something new.
Thanks for this Andy!! This might be a dumb question, but how necessary is the 200 AMP circuit breaker? I'm having to relocate my battery in my '65 coupe to the trunk due to A/C compressor install location. I've got all the necessary bits and pieces, but just wondered if that was a 'must' or not.
It’s more of a safety feature to have a breaker as one was not used when the battery was mounted in the engine bay. You don’t want anything less than 100A or much over 200A. Plus, this provides an incredibly easy way to cut power to the car.
Andy - how did you decide to go with a 200AMP breaker on the battery?
From what I could find, it was what other Mustang owners had down in the same scenario. I almost did a 150A unit, but I didn't want this to be on the edge every time I started the car. :)