Thanks for all the videos, great footage and explanations saved over 600 on labor. Your videos make working on the truck not so intimidating, your the man.
Great job!! I'm a diesel tech too and invested in battery operated 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets make the job faster and more efficient. They cost $$ but well worth it in time...
Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have an '05 6.0 100k miles, been a great truck to me. I maintain it very well. I've only replaced 1 injector thus far.
Thanks for the response, and yes my truck only acts up when cold, then runs fine once warmed up. I am taking to truck to get tested on Thursday. Thanks again.
@35057 Great to hear your Powerstroke is running strong! My tip would be to first install a fuel gauge. Low fuel pressure will cause injector failure and it is usually more than one. Best tip is to keep an eye on fluids and monitoring oil and coolant temps could catch a problem before head gaskets fail!
Great! This really helped me. I have a hands on test doing this very repair on the same vehicle at the Univ, of Arkansas school of Automotive Technology .
@madcreekfarm Your concern is being caused by the injector. The symptom of cold misfire is the sign of a damaged injector that has run low on fuel pressure. You will need to know what cylinders are misfiring to replace those injectors and I also recommend testing your fuel pressure to prevent repeat damage.
@LKCKR That should mean that your ICP sensor is mounting through the RH valve cover. yes the entire high pressure oil system is just like in this video. Yes the dummy plugs have been revised to include a Teflon seal to prevent the seal failure.
Thanks for posting this. I now know that there is no way I am doing this myself. Also, I will never buy another Ford again. My 2004 6.0 f250 has cost me over $10,000 in repairs. Head gasket, turbo, fuel injector. If anyone is even considering a 6.0 - run away as quick as possible. I am now in years of debt and I can't even sell it. No one wants it. Not even as a trade in.
+Steve Vick Did you do an EGR delete and head stud kit before you started having your problems? I bought my dad's '04 and did that, now she's spinning like a top...
+rollzroyce518 the stud kit was done with first $8k repair. No one ever told me about egr issue. You'd think the dealer would mention that. Got rid of truck after found out it needed another $3k to keep it going. Glad yours is working. Mine was a piece of junk. Now own GMC. Will never by Ford again.
+Steve Vick Not trying to kick sand in your face about it, but always, always, always research common issues on any vehicle you intend to purchase. They all break at one point or another, if they break alot there will be information on the fixes. Mine has 225K on factory head gaskets and TTY bolts, a hot tune, and a big turbo. Take it as a lesson. I wish it had been a less expensive one. I learned on a 97 Chevy with the 350 Vortec. I always look stuff up beforehand now. When I went to buy my 6.0 I already knew about the Oil Cooler, coolant filter, EGR issues, injector problems, high pressure oil issues, etc. I bought a hell of a lot of truck for a little $$$ and so far its panned out.
+Steve Vick Stop there i think i will cry, i guest you have a snap on tool box woth 3k and they are all new but at least you can drink beer looking at it. keep going to the strip club soon you will get a pretty girl friend. looser
+Steve Vick +WigginsWorld the 6.0 Powerstroke is a beast of a truck. Yeah, it's got it's problems, but what truck doesn't. Comparing the 6.0 built up and with all the bugs worked out of it to a different engine, the 6.0 is definitely a better, extremely powerful truck. People talk so much shit about this engine, but only because they don't know how to handle it, or just doesn't want to put time and money into it to bring it to its justice.
@dreweysmitty Thabks for leaving your question. I really recommend that you have the computer self tested for any DTC. The 6.0lit cankeep running, even with very low fuel pressure. I actually suspect that you may have a injector control pressure concern. If the ICP pressure doesn't rise to 500 PSI minimum, the engine will never start. Self testing the PCM can help point you in the right direction!
@neekoli69 You misfiring cylinder can be from the injector or the FICM. Either one can cause a cylinder to misfire. If it misfires cold, then runs fine once warmed up, this would be an injector. The root cause is usually low fuel pressure, so be sure to verify you have good fuel pressure. This is not a typical running engine, just a typical failure. The failing injectors can be as little as one cyl, and up to 8.
@srmastertech Oh, of course.. Thank you BTW.. I did the first service on my E350 6.0 and that wasn't bad at all. Fuel filters, oil + Filters, trans filter. That van runs like a TOP! XD I've been there for a little while, but they stretch their service intervals out. I've put ~20k on it so far. I'll be lurking for more tips!
@LKCKR This truck was an 04 model and is exactly the same for the 04 to 07 model years. The 03 model has a different valve covers, FICM mounting and high pressure oil rail. The procedure is very similar as in this video.
@everynameistaken567 This line is a vacuum line for the heater control valve. It should be connected to the valve. This is only on 4 door models, so if it's a 2 door, the line should be plugged.
I have a '05 The symptoms I had when 1 injector failed was if you stop at a light then try and move after it would be super sluggish and black smoked poured out the pipe until about 2 nd gear kicked in. You'll know trust me.
getting ready to replace all injectors on the pass side, thanks for the video, and the tip on the fuel gauge that will be next. Question- what is the life of 6.0 injectors when you do your best on maintenance?
@jorjohns2012 Your diesel tech is correct! As we talked on the phone about your concern, be sure to check your fuel pressure as this may be the root cause!
@mlsech7 If you highly maintain your vehicle, clean filters, I would expect injectors to last a good 150K miles. Here's another tip. once you get the engine reassembled, refill the secondary fuel filter with Ford lubricity. Then add the rest to the tank. If you use a lubricity at every oil change and monitor fuel pressure, I would expect more like 200K.
Thanks for the video. I have a f250 2004 6 liter. Infrequently the rpm changes slightly up and down, like taking your foot off then putting back on the accelerator. Some times the engine pops. I've had a systems check at the ford dealer with no problems noted. If injectors are bad I assume it would be indicated? Thanks for your help. Jim
@dreweysmitty Another question, is there any smoke from the tailpipe? A failed Fuel Injection Control Module can also cause your hard/no start condition. Again, self testing will point you in the right direction.
@35057 You need to be sure on your diagnosis so you don't waste a lot of time. Self tests, fuel system tests, Live FICM data, and compression. There not that bad once you get in there and have fun!
@Moto2four I used no special tricks in recording this video. The repair itself Is just that simple. No special tools are required. The Torx bit are used, and size does matter for model year. T30 for the oil rail, T40 or T45 with a cut down shaft for the injector hold downs. The hex head bits are the only odd tools and you could even use a torx for those too. The scan tool is a great addition, but costly!
have a question for 2003 excursion 6.0L. fuel tank ran low started to chug chug chug..like starving. I quickly ran to shut off the engine before it ran dry. Went to get 3 gallons of diesel to put in tank. Had problems starting, but when I held foot to floor while starting..it finally kicked over. It did run again, but 2 days later wouldn't start again (wife's car) so i went to her with jumper cables and did the same thing again. it's like starter works fine and it cranks, but won't start
Master, im about to put a set of injectors, bulletproof egr cooler and new oil cooler in my 04. I have 216,000 miles on it now. My thought was to obviously replace the egr valve also. Is that what you would do.
i have a P0280, cylider 7 high circuit. checked harness seems fine, checked for ohms and only got .001 or .002 for each wire. checked FICM 48 v key on, 40 v cranking, and 48 v engine on. Accidently left key on and drianed battery's, but when i charged them truck ran fine for about 10 min. Dont know what to do, thinking about taking it to the shop. thanks for the help in advanced.
really nice video. you make it look to easy haha. was wondering though, i have a slight hesitation on my 6.0 off the line and was thinking about replacing my injectors. is this a common problem or should i look somewhere else first??
by hilding foot down again..and cranking key the sound would wind up faster and faster until she was cranked over and ignition complete. I know it could be the injectors now, I changed oil/filter and both fuel filters. Still will not start up, but she cranks. I'm thinking we sucked sludge into the fuel pump or something when it ran so low on fuel. Could it be fuel pump? injectors? I still hear sound like when I turn key but I don't hear it loudly like before. Sounds like fuel pump not working
Thanks for this video! I just changed #1 and # 5 on my 2003 f250 6.0. I noticed the same problem on them. The screw on the top was missing the nut. I have not found any rebuild kit that includes these parts (the screw and nut that holds the electrics components on the head of the injectors). Do you have any idea why that part is failing and where I can get the kit that add these part as well?
What a great channel! Thanks so much for your insightful videos, they are very much appreciated. The FoMoCo manual suggest using 303-1164 to remove the HP supply tube when replacing the injectors, but you don't seem to remove the tube; is it necessary to remove? Thanks again! "Liked and subscribed"
Ok I am very confused and seriously need immediate help. I pulled this engine apart step by step with this video. When I pulled the back head to crankcase plug it looked nothing like the one in the video. It was way shorter and had more holes in it. I went ahead and pulled the front plug and it is more like the one in this video however it has no holes in it.This enginen has obviously been torn into before. could these plugs have been put in backwards or should I reassemble the same way I took it apart? PLEASE HELP QUICK!
I broke the injector connector retaining mechanism off one of my injector connectors while removing the intake manifold. Is there a way to repair the connector from the top side without removing the valve covers and pulling out the injector?
I purchased my 2003 F350 Super Duty when it had 108,000 miles. Prior to driving it away from the dealership they replaced 3 injectors. I don't know what the symptoms are of bad injectors. What are symptoms?
@getsupercharged Welcome to my channel and thanks for the comments! This tool is not a must have tool. Most of the time, they stay in place and I never remove them. Sometimes, they come out when I remove the upper plug, Then I just separate and drop in back into the head. It is not necessary to remove!
High I'm replacing my high volume oil pump in my 2003 f350 super duty do I have to remove the whole intake manafold my year of truck has a cross member for the intake can I rmove the high pressure oil cover with it on
I will be replacing all my injectors. only #1 and #8 are bad however I think if i'm at it I should replace all 8.do you recommend buying all parts from ford? or do you have another trusted source.
Do the trucks typically run rough with a bad injector? My truck is rough and doesn't like to go when I start it could, acts like it misses, and doesn't want to shift, unless I let off the pedal a bit, but once it warms up, it runs like a raped ape. I'm asking this because a guy has two videos up here on UA-cam about that. The first one is how my truck runs when cold. And really like your videos, I watch as many as I can.
@hatchet23100 Is the same injector showing a failure or is it another different injector that is now showing a fault. The root cause for most injector failures is caused by low fuel pressure. When fuel pressure drops below 45 psi, there is not enough lubrication in the fuel to protect the injectors and internal damage occurs. If you replace one one injector, the other injectors may also have damage. I recommend perform fuel pressure tests to determine the root cause of the injector failures.
Hi there. I have a 2009 E450 6.0 Cutawaya van. I have taken this thing apart about 9 times already and have not been able to make it work properly. Initially I had one injector giving me issues. So I decided to repair all the seals on the injectors but unfortunately I installed aftermarket seals. It worked fine for a while and then I started to get a no start and loss of power. It got to the point where I had to start it with ether and finally after driving it straight for about 2hrs it just gave out on me and never turned back on. Not even with ether. I wonder what could have blown out? I was thinking the injector seals initially. After removing the injectors about half of them were completely busted injector seals on each side . I bought all new Ford original injectors and just finally finished installing them and still NO start. It cranks fine but it just wont start. I have no idea where else it can be leaking air. I have checked the oil pump and the pipe fitting, Ipr valve is fine with no tears on screen, Ficm has proper voltage, Wire harness is good and connected to all injectors. I also purchased new nipple fittings on passenger side of rail which was also pressure tested to make sure that rails didnt leak. Also new dummy plugs on both rails. However I am getting no oil pressure reading on the dash board and I remember seeing it at least rise when I fixed the injector seals the first time. Furthermore you mention in this video the motor oil on the dip stick is way to much. Why is this bad. I checked my oil and it marks about half inch above max level and I dont remember over filling it last time oil was changed. I didnt want to change the oil on this thing after replacing the injectors and waste more money unless I could at least get a hint it would start. I figured since it had enough oil it should start with the new injectors installed. I have spent every penny and attempted every thing I can think off to try and get this running. I dont wanna quit on this but I am very close. I have spent 2 years trying to get this running properly with no luck. If you could provide any helpful advice it would be much appreciated. I am thinking of just throwing in the rag and selling the dam thing for parts after having bought and installed all brand new injectors.
I have had a guy tell me that I should dump about two gallons of ATF in the fuel tank when the tank is about a quarter full. Then run the truck for about 5 minutes then shut it off and let it sit overnight so the ATF can "soak in". T.hen run the truck the next day until empty. Then fill up the tank. He says the truck will sputter and smoke a lot at first but then will run a lot better because the ATF cleans the injectors. What are your thoughts here? thank you
Yeah, but it was a bitch getting my lower left valve cover bolts out. My evaporator and heat shield were closer to the valve cover than yours. Had to take my inner fender out to get to them, no room up top.
Somebody needs to kick the designers and engineers in the balls for designing crap that is such a freaking pain to work on. Yes it can be done better....
Rusty was the best! Rest in peace, and thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the videos, great footage and explanations saved over 600 on labor. Your videos make working on the truck not so intimidating, your the man.
Thanks to this video I did this job in a little less than 2 day.
Great job!! I'm a diesel tech too and invested in battery operated 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets make the job faster and more efficient. They cost $$ but well worth it in time...
Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I have an '05 6.0 100k miles, been a great truck to me. I maintain it very well. I've only replaced 1 injector thus far.
Thanks for the response, and yes my truck only acts up when cold, then runs fine once warmed up. I am taking to truck to get tested on Thursday. Thanks again.
As always, a great straight forward video showing us just what we need to know. Thanks for the time and effort you spend doing these videos!!
You just saved me a ton of money. #3 injector replaced this afternoon!
Very informative, I think I'm going to have my laptop by my right side this weekend when I attempt to do this myself!
Awesome video! All of your videos are so helpful
Very good videos sir! I wish you lived closer to Idaho so I could bring in my 6.4 to you when it needs servicing.
@35057
Great to hear your Powerstroke is running strong! My tip would be to first install a fuel gauge. Low fuel pressure will cause injector failure and it is usually more than one. Best tip is to keep an eye on fluids and monitoring oil and coolant temps could catch a problem before head gaskets fail!
Your an animal! Great job! i look forward to more as i have just aquired a diamond in the rough...
Great! This really helped me. I have a hands on test doing this very repair on the same vehicle at the Univ, of Arkansas school of Automotive Technology .
@madcreekfarm
Your concern is being caused by the injector. The symptom of cold misfire is the sign of a damaged injector that has run low on fuel pressure. You will need to know what cylinders are misfiring to replace those injectors and I also recommend testing your fuel pressure to prevent repeat damage.
looks good so far. i'm going to need to replace my injectors pretty soon so I appreciate a video like this. thanks!!!!
Dude made it look easy!!
WHAT A GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU.
@LKCKR
That should mean that your ICP sensor is mounting through the RH valve cover. yes the entire high pressure oil system is just like in this video. Yes the dummy plugs have been revised to include a Teflon seal to prevent the seal failure.
Thanks for posting this. I now know that there is no way I am doing this myself.
Also, I will never buy another Ford again. My 2004 6.0 f250 has cost me over $10,000 in repairs. Head gasket, turbo, fuel injector.
If anyone is even considering a 6.0 - run away as quick as possible. I am now in years of debt and I can't even sell it. No one wants it. Not even as a trade in.
+Steve Vick Did you do an EGR delete and head stud kit before you started having your problems? I bought my dad's '04 and did that, now she's spinning like a top...
+rollzroyce518 the stud kit was done with first $8k repair. No one ever told me about egr issue. You'd think the dealer would mention that. Got rid of truck after found out it needed another $3k to keep it going. Glad yours is working. Mine was a piece of junk.
Now own GMC. Will never by Ford again.
+Steve Vick Not trying to kick sand in your face about it, but always, always, always research common issues on any vehicle you intend to purchase. They all break at one point or another, if they break alot there will be information on the fixes. Mine has 225K on factory head gaskets and TTY bolts, a hot tune, and a big turbo.
Take it as a lesson. I wish it had been a less expensive one. I learned on a 97 Chevy with the 350 Vortec. I always look stuff up beforehand now. When I went to buy my 6.0 I already knew about the Oil Cooler, coolant filter, EGR issues, injector problems, high pressure oil issues, etc. I bought a hell of a lot of truck for a little $$$ and so far its panned out.
+Steve Vick Stop there i think i will cry, i guest you have a snap on tool box woth 3k and they are all new but at least you can drink beer looking at it. keep going to the strip club soon you will get a pretty girl friend.
looser
+Steve Vick +WigginsWorld the 6.0 Powerstroke is a beast of a truck. Yeah, it's got it's problems, but what truck doesn't. Comparing the 6.0 built up and with all the bugs worked out of it to a different engine, the 6.0 is definitely a better, extremely powerful truck. People talk so much shit about this engine, but only because they don't know how to handle it, or just doesn't want to put time and money into it to bring it to its justice.
Rusty great videos! best on you tube keep em comin!
@dreweysmitty
Thabks for leaving your question. I really recommend that you have the computer self tested for any DTC. The 6.0lit cankeep running, even with very low fuel pressure. I actually suspect that you may have a injector control pressure concern. If the ICP pressure doesn't rise to 500 PSI minimum, the engine will never start. Self testing the PCM can help point you in the right direction!
@neekoli69 You misfiring cylinder can be from the injector or the FICM. Either one can cause a cylinder to misfire. If it misfires cold, then runs fine once warmed up, this would be an injector. The root cause is usually low fuel pressure, so be sure to verify you have good fuel pressure. This is not a typical running engine, just a typical failure. The failing injectors can be as little as one cyl, and up to 8.
Good job, very informative
@srmastertech Oh, of course.. Thank you BTW.. I did the first service on my E350 6.0 and that wasn't bad at all. Fuel filters, oil + Filters, trans filter. That van runs like a TOP! XD I've been there for a little while, but they stretch their service intervals out. I've put ~20k on it so far. I'll be lurking for more tips!
@LKCKR
This truck was an 04 model and is exactly the same for the 04 to 07 model years. The 03 model has a different valve covers, FICM mounting and high pressure oil rail. The procedure is very similar as in this video.
great video thanks!
Awesome job !!
@everynameistaken567 This line is a vacuum line for the heater control valve. It should be connected to the valve. This is only on 4 door models, so if it's a 2 door, the line should be plugged.
I have a '05 The symptoms I had when 1 injector failed was if you stop at a light then try and move after it would be super sluggish and black smoked poured out the pipe until about 2 nd gear kicked in. You'll know trust me.
getting ready to replace all injectors on the pass side, thanks for the video, and the tip on the fuel gauge that will be next.
Question- what is the life of 6.0 injectors when you do your best on maintenance?
@jorjohns2012
Your diesel tech is correct! As we talked on the phone about your concern, be sure to check your fuel pressure as this may be the root cause!
Thank You so much
@mlsech7 If you highly maintain your vehicle, clean filters, I would expect injectors to last a good 150K miles. Here's another tip. once you get the engine reassembled, refill the secondary fuel filter with Ford lubricity. Then add the rest to the tank. If you use a lubricity at every oil change and monitor fuel pressure, I would expect more like 200K.
@srmastertech Thanks for the reply, and once again for the great videos. I am off to watch some more! Cheers.
@PWRSTR0KER2008
Thanks, I really appreciate the support. At least now you will know what is all involved and if someone is just feeding you BS!
Thanks for the video. I have a f250 2004 6 liter. Infrequently the rpm changes slightly up and down, like taking your foot off then putting back on the accelerator. Some times the engine pops. I've had a systems check at the ford dealer with no problems noted. If injectors are bad I assume it would be indicated? Thanks for your help. Jim
@dreweysmitty Another question, is there any smoke from the tailpipe? A failed Fuel Injection Control Module can also cause your hard/no start condition. Again, self testing will point you in the right direction.
Thanks for the video
@35057
You need to be sure on your diagnosis so you don't waste a lot of time. Self tests, fuel system tests, Live FICM data, and compression. There not that bad once you get in there and have fun!
@srmastertech Thank you very much! Wish you were in South Florida!
@Moto2four
I used no special tricks in recording this video. The repair itself Is just that simple. No special tools are required. The Torx bit are used, and size does matter for model year. T30 for the oil rail, T40 or T45 with a cut down shaft for the injector hold downs. The hex head bits are the only odd tools and you could even use a torx for those too. The scan tool is a great addition, but costly!
have a question for 2003 excursion 6.0L. fuel tank ran low started to chug chug chug..like starving. I quickly ran to shut off the engine before it ran dry. Went to get 3 gallons of diesel to put in tank. Had problems starting, but when I held foot to floor while starting..it finally kicked over. It did run again, but 2 days later wouldn't start again (wife's car) so i went to her with jumper cables and did the same thing again. it's like starter works fine and it cranks, but won't start
Master, im about to put a set of injectors, bulletproof egr cooler and new oil cooler in my 04. I have 216,000 miles on it now. My thought was to obviously replace the egr valve also. Is that what you would do.
Incredible video!! Is it that simple? Or do you just make it look easy? Any special tools other than the t30?
i have a P0280, cylider 7 high circuit. checked harness seems fine, checked for ohms and only got .001 or .002 for each wire. checked FICM 48 v key on, 40 v cranking, and 48 v engine on. Accidently left key on and drianed battery's, but when i charged them truck ran fine for about 10 min. Dont know what to do, thinking about taking it to the shop.
thanks for the help in advanced.
really nice video. you make it look to easy haha. was wondering though, i have a slight hesitation on my 6.0 off the line and was thinking about replacing my injectors. is this a common problem or should i look somewhere else first??
by hilding foot down again..and cranking key the sound would wind up faster and faster until she was cranked over and ignition complete. I know it could be the injectors now, I changed oil/filter and both fuel filters. Still will not start up, but she cranks. I'm thinking we sucked sludge into the fuel pump or something when it ran so low on fuel. Could it be fuel pump? injectors? I still hear sound like when I turn key but I don't hear it loudly like before. Sounds like fuel pump not working
Thanks for this video! I just changed #1 and # 5 on my 2003 f250 6.0. I noticed the same problem on them. The screw on the top was missing the nut. I have not found any rebuild kit that includes these parts (the screw and nut that holds the electrics components on the head of the injectors). Do you have any idea why that part is failing and where I can get the kit that add these part as well?
What a great channel! Thanks so much for your insightful videos, they are very much appreciated. The FoMoCo manual suggest using 303-1164 to remove the HP supply tube when replacing the injectors, but you don't seem to remove the tube; is it necessary to remove? Thanks again! "Liked and subscribed"
what is that little cable you moved at 0:37? Mine is just hanging not attached to anything and I always wondered what its for
Can you post a list of the tools you used . Size and all
It won't want to move from a dead stop. Also at high way speed it would occasionally feel like someone just shut the fuel off for ten seconds.
Ok I am very confused and seriously need immediate help. I pulled this engine apart step by step with this video. When I pulled the back head to crankcase plug it looked nothing like the one in the video. It was way shorter and had more holes in it. I went ahead and pulled the front plug and it is more like the one in this video however it has no holes in it.This enginen has obviously been torn into before. could these plugs have been put in backwards or should I reassemble the same way I took it apart? PLEASE HELP QUICK!
I broke the injector connector retaining mechanism off one of my injector connectors while removing the intake manifold. Is there a way to repair the connector from the top side without removing the valve covers and pulling out the injector?
I purchased my 2003 F350 Super Duty when it had 108,000 miles. Prior to driving it away from the dealership they replaced 3 injectors. I don't know what the symptoms are of bad injectors. What are symptoms?
So you dont have to unbolt the front dummy plug, just the top piece of the stand pipe in the back?
@getsupercharged
Welcome to my channel and thanks for the comments! This tool is not a must have tool. Most of the time, they stay in place and I never remove them. Sometimes, they come out when I remove the upper plug, Then I just separate and drop in back into the head. It is not necessary to remove!
White smoke (excessive) coming out in normal operation Not when engine is cold or idle, what can be the issue? 6.4 f250 2008 130k mi
High I'm replacing my high volume oil pump in my 2003 f350 super duty do I have to remove the whole intake manafold my year of truck has a cross member for the intake can I rmove the high pressure oil cover with it on
Thanx
@madcreekfarm
Your welcome!
@neekoli69 Sounds like an injector concern. Hopefully they also test for fuel pressure.
This is why I own a gasser 😤
@markyoung309
Thanks for the great comment! Congratulations on your diamond!!!!
I will be replacing all my injectors. only #1 and #8 are bad however I think if i'm at it I should replace all 8.do you recommend buying all parts from ford? or do you have another trusted source.
Do the trucks typically run rough with a bad injector? My truck is rough and doesn't like to go when I start it could, acts like it misses, and doesn't want to shift, unless I let off the pedal a bit, but once it warms up, it runs like a raped ape. I'm asking this because a guy has two videos up here on UA-cam about that. The first one is how my truck runs when cold. And really like your videos, I watch as many as I can.
@hatchet23100
Is the same injector showing a failure or is it another different injector that is now showing a fault. The root cause for most injector failures is caused by low fuel pressure. When fuel pressure drops below 45 psi, there is not enough lubrication in the fuel to protect the injectors and internal damage occurs. If you replace one one injector, the other injectors may also have damage. I recommend perform fuel pressure tests to determine the root cause of the injector failures.
i need to replace my #2 and #4 injector which side and which one are those?
@Agordon060
Thanks, I'll keep doing my best!
@kellybroussard623
Your very welcome!
Lord I can fit anything on that passenger side to loosen those bolts on the oil rail mount
@lamadequeso
Great job! I'm glad it helped!
What is different about the '03 valve covers?
@srmastertech Good deal! Thanks for the advice!
Hi there. I have a 2009 E450 6.0 Cutawaya van. I have taken this thing apart about 9 times already and have not been able to make it work properly. Initially I had one injector giving me issues. So I decided to repair all the seals on the injectors but unfortunately I installed aftermarket seals. It worked fine for a while and then I started to get a no start and loss of power. It got to the point where I had to start it with ether and finally after driving it straight for about 2hrs it just gave out on me and never turned back on. Not even with ether. I wonder what could have blown out? I was thinking the injector seals initially. After removing the injectors about half of them were completely busted injector seals on each side . I bought all new Ford original injectors and just finally finished installing them and still NO start. It cranks fine but it just wont start.
I have no idea where else it can be leaking air. I have checked the oil pump and the pipe fitting, Ipr valve is fine with no tears on screen, Ficm has proper voltage, Wire harness is good and connected to all injectors. I also purchased new nipple fittings on passenger side of rail which was also pressure tested to make sure that rails didnt leak. Also new dummy plugs on both rails. However I am getting no oil pressure reading on the dash board and I remember seeing it at least rise when I fixed the injector seals the first time.
Furthermore you mention in this video the motor oil on the dip stick is way to much. Why is this bad. I checked my oil and it marks about half inch above max level and I dont remember over filling it last time oil was changed. I didnt want to change the oil on this thing after replacing the injectors and waste more money unless I could at least get a hint it would start. I figured since it had enough oil it should start with the new injectors installed.
I have spent every penny and attempted every thing I can think off to try and get this running. I dont wanna quit on this but I am very close. I have spent 2 years trying to get this running properly with no luck.
If you could provide any helpful advice it would be much appreciated. I am thinking of just throwing in the rag and selling the dam thing for parts after having bought and installed all brand new injectors.
Jose Venegas i
@A8vscRrabbit
Thanks!
I have had a guy tell me that I should dump about two gallons of ATF in the fuel tank when the tank is about a quarter full. Then run the truck for about 5 minutes then shut it off and let it sit overnight so the ATF can "soak in". T.hen run the truck the next day until empty. Then fill up the tank. He says the truck will sputter and smoke a lot at first but then will run a lot better because the ATF cleans the injectors. What are your thoughts here? thank you
yes i know of diesel mechanics who will do that
One of our work F450's may have a dead injector driver. Just preparing myself. Truck has no balls and burns a LOT of fuel.
thought you had to pull the cab. lol
@simeoncoleman
Thanks!!!!
@everynameistaken567
Thanks, that's why I do it!
JAKI PRZEBIEG MA AUTO?
Really, your passenger valve cover came out that fucking easy?
@midway27272727
Thank you!!!
Yeah, but it was a bitch getting my lower left valve cover bolts out. My evaporator and heat shield were closer to the valve cover than yours. Had to take my inner fender out to get to them, no room up top.
Eight minutes my ass
What does this code p0266
Somebody needs to kick the designers and engineers in the balls for designing crap that is such a freaking pain to work on. Yes it can be done better....