Thanks for this video! Very in depth and detail focused. I picked up the same rebuild kit and did all 8 injectors on my 03. Now it runs like a champ again. The cylinder contributions on all 8 cylinders are now perfect! Only difference was I used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the injector bodies. While I was tearing everything apart I also used your other video to rebuild my turbo.
Looks pretty straight forward. Makes me wonder why more people don't rebuild their own injectors with so many crappy companies around and the high price of them.
Thank you so much! Was trying to figure out where I went wrong, hydro lock portion was invaluable. Spent days looking for proper info and you nailed it!!!
AMAZING Play by Play! Being a person who is familiar with hydraulic systems and having done injector reconditioning (way back when), I spotted this as something I can do. This video is a lifesaver, for my truck!
Thanks well done video. BUT... For the going cost of rebuilt ones flow tested I'll stick with buying already rebuilt/Remaned. But its nice to see what is inside of one, thanks!
Stiction is caused by the flat end of the spool valve sticking to the flat surface of the close coil, usually due to dirty or viscous (cold) oil. The updated coils have a slot in them to help break the suction of the oil on cold start.
Rod Williams sorry took so long to get back the second time. Www.accuratediesel.com has that plunger spring hat in a kit. I do not have experience with their kit.
Thanks Chris! So the small rectangle plate inside the meter plates was broke in half. Do you know where I can find a new one or should I just put the two pieces back in?
So its like an old injector mechanical so to say, the electrical part only controls that valve which controls the fuel volume that enters the Pumping chamber???
armando nika the lower half of the injector body is similar to an older diesel nozzle with a mechanical injection pump. The upper spool valve area is an on /off oil switch.
Find a used injector body. I’ve spent a lot of time trying to source some but no luck. You could try contacting any of the companies that rebuilds them. They may sell you one. I’ve ran injectors with out the screens in a pinch. Just make sure you stay on top of your filters
Man i feel like you gouged the o ring groves pulling those Orings out not good. you should use an exacto knife and carefully cut them, so they just roll out easy and no chance of a gouge, so the new seals have a chance.
I wish I had a good answer to that. I’ve not done enough testing to know exactly what actually needs to be repaired. To me the top side of the injector shouldn’t be hurt if the fuel pressure was low. To me it would be in the lower area that handles the fuel. I’ve had good luck by using very fine sand paper to clean up the plunger.
Quick Question/Comment (early 2004 6.0L owner here): I just took apart Injector #4-- the spool valve was reversed-- skinny end close to where the bolt head-- in your video you stated that the fat end (more solid meat) should be at the end where the bolt head is... I also had to replace the ICP Sensor as I was blowing oil... In your opinion-- and based on your comment that the if this is reversed-- this 'could cause' high oil pressure... What error codes would this throw? Any other thoughts? THANKS for these videos-- I am rebuilding all 8 of my injectors because my HAND-ME-DOWN truck was given to me in a very shitty state... Hoping to improve on the fuel delivery system...
SY Explorar Conmigo the fat side of the spool valve should be on the side of the spool valve housing facing the exhaust. The bolt can be put in either way. If the spool valve was in wrong. This can cause a no start “high pressure oil leak”. This could set a P2291.
I was trying to understand the frequency that the spring needs to be replaced? The rebuild kit I purchased doesn’t have the replacement spring--and I’m trying to understand the frequency and or feedback mother of the other diesel shops (who rebuild injectors) - how often springs go out and or how to test other components of the injector- while I have all eight out, and the truck is a hard ‘down’ for a while... again trying to Google research myself and find UA-cam videos but there’s very few videos out on rebuilding and injectors as detailed as you are... but I’m looking for stats and facts to drive my decision making...
as much as they want to charge for new springs, like 400 buck, spools another 400, and tips the same, you might as well buy remanned injectors. I hate th 6.0 as everyone is price gouging for parts and should be heavily fined. all this must by oem or some expensive aftermarket upgrade to fix thee POS 6.0, to bullet proof it, you must replace every little damn thing in the engine and the 6.0 will last forever!!! Except one thing. It is no longer the 6.0 powerstroke anymore is it. It is a 20,000 dollar customized engine that many companies made a fortune selling 25 cent parts for hunfreds of dollars. And out pathetic criminal government who is obligated by law to uphold laws and protect the consumers does nothing to stop it. They all should be in prison. Try contacting consumer affairs. All they do is forward your complain t to the people you are ccomplaining about. they never fine or punish anyone. @@syexplorarconmigo8853
From what I’ve been told over the years, the intensifier plunger mushrooms and scoring on the intensifier plunger and body can happen from low fuel pressure.
Diego Olalde if you feel you can do it then go for it. You can definitely fix the stiction issues. Most of the time putting new springs in and cleaning the internals of the injector will help with other issues
Mike Ches if your buying stock injectors Ford is the best to get. Their rebuild process is the best. If your looking for performance injectors. Look for a company that starts with a Ford rebuild injector then makes their changes. A $135 injector may not have new coils.
Chris ; I think I may have a bad injector. With 260k on, would they be worth rebuilding? Secondly do you have a shop? Or maybe sell rebuilt injectors. Thanks
Bob I’ve heard that injectors with that high of mileage should probably be replaced with motorcraft reman. Though a lot of 6.0 have had injectors replaced several times. Are you sure the injectors have 260k on them? I do not do this full time. That is the plan though. Wish I could help with rebuilding the injectors for you.
Bob not located in Texas sorry. I have heard there are many reputable diesel repair shops in Texas. I just googled diesel injector repair in Texas and about 20 shops came up.
I don’t not at this time. Sorry. My plan is to build a flow bench and start offering injector rebuilding. It seems very intimidating but is easier then you think.
Mike Ches yes they can be reused. The only time you would need to replace is if it test bad. I recently had an injector coil go bad that I could physically see the problem.
@@showmerepair will scan tool show ,,bad coil,, code when testing? What people mean when they say,,bad,,injectors besides bad orings ... and how to make sure the could is BAD or OK? THANK YOU
Mike Ches a scan tool could only give a code saying that there is a circuit issue with 1 or more of the injectors. Using a DVOM a person can test resistance across the injector coil to test the coil. There can be many different pieces in the injector that could cause it to be a bad injector. Disassembling and inspecting and or testing the parts of the injector would be the best way to determine what caused the injector to go bad.
2005 is not the only year that this piece breaks. I’m not positive but I remember reading some where that the cup that goes over plunger was updated at some point to put pressure on the plunger and not the hat.
I was using carb cleaner in a 1 gallon can. It worked to clean carbon off but then still had to clean with brake clean. Now I use an ultra sonic cleaner I bought at harbor freight.
Hey Chris awesome vids! Have you ever had injectors you couldn't get apart? I broke one of the notches trying to get one of mine apart. I even broke my cheap Chinese 4 inch vice. Is there a rebuilder/reman supplier out there using red loctite on those threads that you are aware of? I have applied a little heat with a propane torch and nothing. Really scared to attempt another one, it was really tight so I gave up.
Anything is possible. But not likely. Oil is under more pressure in the injector. So I would believe you would get oil in fuel before fuel in oil. Your injector can leak fuel into the the rocker arm area which would cause fuel in oil.
If I suspected fuel in oil. I would put dye in the fuel. Pull the valve covers. Start the engine and use a black light to see if you have fuel leaking from and injector.
@@showmerepair It’s getting enough oil in the fuel to dilute the oil enough it won’t start when hot. I changed the oil and it starts hot or cold now but still getting fuel in the oil from somewhere. My first thought is injector orings. About 5 months ago I had the engine built by a replicable shop in town. New heads, new bolts, new oil cooler, and injector orings. They used the same injectors. In all $9600 for all. The shop is telling me it could be orings and if that’s the case it will be under warranty. But it could be a cracked injector body and if that’s the case it’s not covered by warranty. Just trying to learn as much as I can before I take it to them to do the work.
Link is in the description. There are 2 more videos. Total of 3 videos going over the process. Video 2 link 6.0l Powerstroke Injector Rebuild, Injector Body Assembly Part 2
It’s carb cleaner. You can pick it up from any parts store. I’ve learned that’s not the best. I’d recommend getting a ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight or Amazon.
I don't know if you're still monitoring this vid. I did my injectors with this and I opened up a whole bunch of issues. The latest one is P codes on all 8 injectors for high circuit and from what I read it's the Spool Valve magnets shorted. Here's a link to my vid I did and what I've done. I don't want to replace them without knowing what caused them to fail all at once. ua-cam.com/video/2qJzZAJTdk0/v-deo.html
To be sure what were the codes that are being set? Then we can go from there. I’ve heard of all 8 injector electrical failing at once. Never seen it first hand. If I remember it was due to a modified FICM that was putting out 58v rather than the stock 48v. Fuel in oil will cause the oil to get too thin. Which will cause high pressure oil problems. The most common leak is at the black or white o-rings on the outside of the injector body. Those 2 o-rings are what seal the injector to the fuel rain internal to the cylinder head. Make sure to liberally lube those o-rings before installing injectors.
@showmerepair Thanks for replying. I'll have to retrieve them again, they're all the high circuit/short codes. Prior to replacing the HPOP, I did see low FICM voltage during cranking and replaced the Control Module. Did you read all my steps done I put under my pinned comment? Edit: My FICM is original stock one.
Yes I saw what you’ve done. The only reason you would have circuit codes for electrical side of injectors after servicing would be incorrect pin location of spool valve bolts could be over tightened causing coil to fail internally. Other than that if you replaced ficm with a used ficm. A failed ficm setting all circuit codes is an indication that the ficm has failed internally.
@showmerepair I snugged the solenoids down to the point of no movement. I did replace all the solenoid connectors but 1 wire at a time to make sure. The FICM is my original but with a replacement Control Module. What's odd is the chain of events. It's been one thing after another, never the same. I'm going to ohm out the solenoids today.
@showmerepair I just checked #2, easiest to get to. Not sure of pin numbers looking at the plug the 2 rear pins read 0.1 ohms and open across all others. Edit: I checked a spare solenoid for resistance and and both sets of pins read 0.1 ohms and nothing across pins. I went back to the truck and checked again I missed one set and both are 0.1 ohms. Only thing left is the FICM.
Thanks for this video! Very in depth and detail focused. I picked up the same rebuild kit and did all 8 injectors on my 03. Now it runs like a champ again. The cylinder contributions on all 8 cylinders are now perfect! Only difference was I used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the injector bodies. While I was tearing everything apart I also used your other video to rebuild my turbo.
Great to hear. That’s why I made the videos.
I’ve started using an ultra sonic cleaner. Does a much better job.
Thanks for watching.
Looks pretty straight forward. Makes me wonder why more people don't rebuild their own injectors with so many crappy companies around and the high price of them.
Just a quick tip. You can put a wrench over your screw driver handle instead of vice grips. The handles are designed for that.
Thank you so much! Was trying to figure out where I went wrong, hydro lock portion was invaluable. Spent days looking for proper info and you nailed it!!!
AMAZING Play by Play! Being a person who is familiar with hydraulic systems and having done injector reconditioning (way back when), I spotted this as something I can do. This video is a lifesaver, for my truck!
I had just got a job at bostech last week rebuilding them
Looking forward to the assembly
Brian sent me over to subscribe. Looking forward to your content!
Briansmobile1 sent me as well. Great, detailed video! Excellent quality.
Briansmobile1 sent me over subbed great video
Same
Hey Chris Brian fr briansmobile 1 sent me here great video thanks
big bob thank you. I look forward to making more videos
Thanks well done video. BUT... For the going cost of rebuilt ones flow tested I'll stick with buying already rebuilt/Remaned. But its nice to see what is inside of one, thanks!
Rick I can’t agree with you more. I’ve always wanted to figure it out and I couldn’t find any detailed videos.
I am working on building a flow bench.
thanks for making this video.
I will just buy a new injector because theres so much that will go wrong if I even attempt this without a test bench.
It will be a while till my test bench is done. I’d offer to flow it if it was done.
Stiction is caused by the flat end of the spool valve sticking to the flat surface of the close coil, usually due to dirty or viscous (cold) oil. The updated coils have a slot in them to help break the suction of the oil on cold start.
gmupps thank you for the information. I wonder an older style coil could be modified like the new style.
Stiction is the issue when the spool valves get pitted/scored and covered with a build up of varnish.
@@bitterrootdiesel8159 That's not what PurePower/AP told me... I do manage an ADS member fuel shop but we don't rebuild HEUI stuff
Chris I am referring to the hat on the plunger that you use 2K grit sandpaper to clean up . I appreciate your prompt response
Rod Williams sorry took so long to get back the second time. Www.accuratediesel.com has that plunger spring hat in a kit. I do not have experience with their kit.
@@showmerepair We also carry the plunger spring retainer.
The only thing I learned from this video. IS.... I want that socket wrench! Great video too ;)
A box end wrench will fit the handle of the screwdriver
Thanks Chris! So the small rectangle plate inside the meter plates was broke in half. Do you know where I can find a new one or should I just put the two pieces back in?
I would not put it back in. I do not know where to get the metering valves. I believe you’ll need to get a new injector
You could see if any one is selling used injectors close to you cheap. And then disassemble to take parts from it.
Great video Thanks! What size/type tools are you using at 0:35 seconds?
I'm also wondering what size
just got it... T10 and a 4mm socket on the other side
So its like an old injector mechanical so to say, the electrical part only controls that valve which controls the fuel volume that enters the Pumping chamber???
armando nika the lower half of the injector body is similar to an older diesel nozzle with a mechanical injection pump. The upper spool valve area is an on /off oil switch.
Chris B thank you very much!
Can you send the link for the repair kit please, and the cost... ty
Wery good video! Do you have to do calibration after Rebuild??
No. If you think the failure was caused by a bad calibration. You may want to.
@@showmerepair What kind of your problem you got to rebuild this injector? Tanks!
Where do you get the injector rebuild kit from ??
bitterrootdiesel.com/
good afternoon, I have the same engine, I removed the injectors and saw oil pouring out of the ramp? This is fine
Can you give a little more detail explaining what you call the ramp?
What do you do about broken fuel inlet screens, can they be replaced? I think I've watched every video on UA-cam and nobody mentions them.
Find a used injector body. I’ve spent a lot of time trying to source some but no luck. You could try contacting any of the companies that rebuilds them. They may sell you one.
I’ve ran injectors with out the screens in a pinch. Just make sure you stay on top of your filters
@showmerepair Alright thanks, Have you ever attempted to remove a broken one? They look like they're probably Pressed in From The outside?
That I recall I have not tried to remove a screen. Yes I believe they are pressed in.
Chris your vid is Very informative . I have an injector that the hat is broken on . Where can I get another one from ?
Rod Williams Are you talking about the spool valve body? The spool valve body houses the spool valve and the coils bolt to the outside.
Man i feel like you gouged the o ring groves pulling those Orings out not good. you should use an exacto knife and carefully cut them, so they just roll out easy and no chance of a gouge, so the new seals have a chance.
If the injector devolved a problem from a bad fuel pump would it likely have damage beyond these rebuild parts? Can the parts be fixed with sandpaper?
I wish I had a good answer to that. I’ve not done enough testing to know exactly what actually needs to be repaired. To me the top side of the injector shouldn’t be hurt if the fuel pressure was low. To me it would be in the lower area that handles the fuel. I’ve had good luck by using very fine sand paper to clean up the plunger.
@@showmerepair thank you for responding. I didn't know if it was a definite waste of time. I'll pull them apart and inspect them first.
I think in video 2 I go over things I’ve done to fix injectors. Thanks for watching
Quick Question/Comment (early 2004 6.0L owner here): I just took apart Injector #4-- the spool valve was reversed-- skinny end close to where the bolt head-- in your video you stated that the fat end (more solid meat) should be at the end where the bolt head is... I also had to replace the ICP Sensor as I was blowing oil... In your opinion-- and based on your comment that the if this is reversed-- this 'could cause' high oil pressure... What error codes would this throw? Any other thoughts?
THANKS for these videos-- I am rebuilding all 8 of my injectors because my HAND-ME-DOWN truck was given to me in a very shitty state... Hoping to improve on the fuel delivery system...
SY Explorar Conmigo the fat side of the spool valve should be on the side of the spool valve housing facing the exhaust. The bolt can be put in either way.
If the spool valve was in wrong. This can cause a no start “high pressure oil leak”. This could set a P2291.
Good luck feel free to ask more questions.
I was trying to understand the frequency that the spring needs to be replaced? The rebuild kit I purchased doesn’t have the replacement spring--and I’m trying to understand the frequency and or feedback mother of the other diesel shops (who rebuild injectors) - how often springs go out and or how to test other components of the injector- while I have all eight out, and the truck is a hard ‘down’ for a while... again trying to Google research myself and find UA-cam videos but there’s very few videos out on rebuilding and injectors as detailed as you are... but I’m looking for stats and facts to drive my decision making...
I didn’t pull that code- I pulled an ICP code, and injectors 1 & 6 (P263 & P278) not contributing...
as much as they want to charge for new springs, like 400 buck, spools another 400, and tips the same, you might as well buy remanned injectors. I hate th 6.0 as everyone is price gouging for parts and should be heavily fined. all this must by oem or some expensive aftermarket upgrade to fix thee POS 6.0, to bullet proof it, you must replace every little damn thing in the engine and the 6.0 will last forever!!! Except one thing. It is no longer the 6.0 powerstroke anymore is it. It is a 20,000 dollar customized engine that many companies made a fortune selling 25 cent parts for hunfreds of dollars. And out pathetic criminal government who is obligated by law to uphold laws and protect the consumers does nothing to stop it. They all should be in prison. Try contacting consumer affairs. All they do is forward your complain t to the people you are ccomplaining about. they never fine or punish anyone. @@syexplorarconmigo8853
So, when these have mechanical failure from low fuel pressure what would go bad on these things?
From what I’ve been told over the years, the intensifier plunger mushrooms and scoring on the intensifier plunger and body can happen from low fuel pressure.
I have 2 injectors probably sticking and going out would you recommend just rebuilding all of them?
Diego Olalde if you feel you can do it then go for it. You can definitely fix the stiction issues. Most of the time putting new springs in and cleaning the internals of the injector will help with other issues
@@showmerepair thanks for the reply ill go ahead and give it a shot then thanks!
What would be the best injectors to buy from? Is $135 injectors really worse than $195 one..?
Mike Ches if your buying stock injectors Ford is the best to get. Their rebuild process is the best.
If your looking for performance injectors. Look for a company that starts with a Ford rebuild injector then makes their changes.
A $135 injector may not have new coils.
Alliant injectors are manufactured by Pure Power Technologies who also makes them for Motorcraft.
Chris ; I think I may have a bad injector. With 260k on, would they be worth rebuilding? Secondly do you have a shop? Or maybe sell rebuilt injectors. Thanks
Bob I’ve heard that injectors with that high of mileage should probably be replaced with motorcraft reman.
Though a lot of 6.0 have had injectors replaced several times. Are you sure the injectors have 260k on them?
I do not do this full time. That is the plan though. Wish I could help with rebuilding the injectors for you.
No Sir , I don’t know. You wouldn’t happen to be in Texas would you ??
Bob not located in Texas sorry. I have heard there are many reputable diesel repair shops in Texas. I just googled diesel injector repair in Texas and about 20 shops came up.
Hi do you do this for customers?
I don’t not at this time. Sorry.
My plan is to build a flow bench and start offering injector rebuilding.
It seems very intimidating but is easier then you think.
Can the injectors coils be used again or they need to be replaced? Do they ever go bad?
Mike Ches yes they can be reused. The only time you would need to replace is if it test bad. I recently had an injector coil go bad that I could physically see the problem.
@@showmerepair will scan tool show ,,bad coil,, code when testing? What people mean when they say,,bad,,injectors besides bad orings ... and how to make sure the could is BAD or OK? THANK YOU
Mike Ches a scan tool could only give a code saying that there is a circuit issue with 1 or more of the injectors.
Using a DVOM a person can test resistance across the injector coil to test the coil.
There can be many different pieces in the injector that could cause it to be a bad injector. Disassembling and inspecting and or testing the parts of the injector would be the best way to determine what caused the injector to go bad.
@@showmerepair what would be COMMON Problem with the injectors on 6.0 ,is it coil,stiction, or cracked tip..?
For the 6.0 I would say stiction.
Hello Sir! briansmobile1
sent me your way!
My truck is an 05 and so now you can include 05s where the hat breaks .
2005 is not the only year that this piece breaks. I’m not positive but I remember reading some where that the cup that goes over plunger was updated at some point to put pressure on the plunger and not the hat.
What's the solution that you put all your parts in at the end?
Curtis Burdick it’s carburetor cleaner. You can find it at any parts store.
Hey quick question have you ever had any problems with the quality of the parts and O rings from the company you buy the rebuild kit
I have not. I tried other o-ring kits from other places and have ran into issues.
What are you submerging the things and stuff in?
I was using carb cleaner in a 1 gallon can. It worked to clean carbon off but then still had to clean with brake clean. Now I use an ultra sonic cleaner I bought at harbor freight.
@@showmerepair aahhh....so just like the label says......how sneaky 🧐😁
@@showmerepair what solution do you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
@@patrickwelch620 I’ve been using evapo rust www.evapo-rust.com/
Brian sent me😁🤙
Where can you get he rebuilt kits?
hilham 89 bitterrootdiesel.com/
@@showmerepair I appreciate it. After I started watching your second video I seen where you got it.
Thanks for watching. I’m working on more videos
@@showmerepair I appreciate the help. I'm somewhat new to owning a diesel so I'm trying to save some money by doing it myself
Hey Chris awesome vids! Have you ever had injectors you couldn't get apart? I broke one of the notches trying to get one of mine apart. I even broke my cheap Chinese 4 inch vice. Is there a rebuilder/reman supplier
out there using red loctite on those threads that you are aware of? I have applied a little heat with a propane torch and nothing. Really scared to attempt another one, it was really tight so I gave up.
Is it possible to get fuel in the oil through the injector?
Anything is possible. But not likely. Oil is under more pressure in the injector. So I would believe you would get oil in fuel before fuel in oil. Your injector can leak fuel into the the rocker arm area which would cause fuel in oil.
If I suspected fuel in oil. I would put dye in the fuel. Pull the valve covers. Start the engine and use a black light to see if you have fuel leaking from and injector.
@@showmerepair It’s getting enough oil in the fuel to dilute the oil enough it won’t start when hot. I changed the oil and it starts hot or cold now but still getting fuel in the oil from somewhere. My first thought is injector orings. About 5 months ago I had the engine built by a replicable shop in town. New heads, new bolts, new oil cooler, and injector orings. They used the same injectors. In all $9600 for all. The shop is telling me it could be orings and if that’s the case it will be under warranty. But it could be a cracked injector body and if that’s the case it’s not covered by warranty. Just trying to learn as much as I can before I take it to them to do the work.
I agree it could be a leaking o-ring or an injector body leaking. What do they want to do to diagnose or repair?
@@showmerepair He just said they would remove valve covers to try to find where it’s coming from.
Brian sent me.
No need ,I found it ... ty
Where'd u get all the parts
bitterrootdiesel.com/
Un Known bitterrootdiesel.com/
@@showmerepair sweet deal man. U made it look pretty damn easy. Hope i can rebuild my i jectors now
Preassure the nozzle
Where is the link to the kit and what’s the solution at the end of the video.
Link is in the description.
There are 2 more videos. Total of 3 videos going over the process.
Video 2 link
6.0l Powerstroke Injector Rebuild, Injector Body Assembly Part 2
And that link didn’t work
@@showmerepair the solution you dropped them in. What was that in the bucket? Sorry just kinda on a time crunch
It’s carb cleaner. You can pick it up from any parts store. I’ve learned that’s not the best. I’d recommend getting a ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight or Amazon.
@@showmerepair thanks a ton on the video and help
I don't know if you're still monitoring this vid. I did my injectors with this and I opened up a whole bunch of issues. The latest one is P codes on all 8 injectors for high circuit and from what I read it's the Spool Valve magnets shorted. Here's a link to my vid I did and what I've done. I don't want to replace them without knowing what caused them to fail all at once.
ua-cam.com/video/2qJzZAJTdk0/v-deo.html
To be sure what were the codes that are being set? Then we can go from there. I’ve heard of all 8 injector electrical failing at once. Never seen it first hand. If I remember it was due to a modified FICM that was putting out 58v rather than the stock 48v.
Fuel in oil will cause the oil to get too thin. Which will cause high pressure oil problems. The most common leak is at the black or white o-rings on the outside of the injector body. Those 2 o-rings are what seal the injector to the fuel rain internal to the cylinder head.
Make sure to liberally lube those o-rings before installing injectors.
@showmerepair Thanks for replying. I'll have to retrieve them again, they're all the high circuit/short codes. Prior to replacing the HPOP, I did see low FICM voltage during cranking and replaced the Control Module. Did you read all my steps done I put under my pinned comment?
Edit: My FICM is original stock one.
Yes I saw what you’ve done. The only reason you would have circuit codes for electrical side of injectors after servicing would be incorrect pin location of spool valve bolts could be over tightened causing coil to fail internally.
Other than that if you replaced ficm with a used ficm. A failed ficm setting all circuit codes is an indication that the ficm has failed internally.
@showmerepair I snugged the solenoids down to the point of no movement. I did replace all the solenoid connectors but 1 wire at a time to make sure. The FICM is my original but with a replacement Control Module.
What's odd is the chain of events. It's been one thing after another, never the same.
I'm going to ohm out the solenoids today.
@showmerepair I just checked #2, easiest to get to.
Not sure of pin numbers looking at the plug the 2 rear pins read 0.1 ohms and open across all others.
Edit: I checked a spare solenoid for resistance and and both sets of pins read 0.1 ohms and nothing across pins. I went back to the truck and checked again I missed one set and both are 0.1 ohms. Only thing left is the FICM.