It’s disappointing that the Pyer Moss looks seemed so costumy, but the FAR more disappointing this is that they just looked plain CHEAP. Moschino and others have shown that campy and costumy is okay as long as the construction and design skills are solid. These unfortunately seemed like a misguided fashion student’s take on couture, where they think props will save a lack of vision and ability. It was even more disappointing that we saw flashes of brilliance that made the lows seem even worse.
You gave a respectful and honest, constructive criticism of the "Pyer Moss" collection. I agreed with this critique. It was too literal and campy. It lacked true couture construction for a majority of the looks. I hope he takes notes and comes back next season bigger and better.
I think it was extra disappointing because he’s such a talented designer! Like the concept of showcasing black inventors is fantastic, and if he’d done it with the skill that we’ve seen from him before, it would have been an absolutely iconic collection. So much wasted potential with this collection
The thing is, he roasted MGC to death while he sounded somewhat reserved here. It is what it is. A missed opportunity. Regardless of the message behind the collection, to send a tent or a literal peanut butter jar costume is unacceptable. And no, I'm no MGC at Dior fan. But at least you can wear them.
As much as I want to like Pyer Moss collection I felt soo underwhelmed by it… coming from someone who is Black myself as I’m always rooting for everyone Black but I feel like it could have been much more couture for me. And it kinda upset me because I was really hoping he would show up and show out but….
Feel the same. We get very few chances and you gotta be at 100 or they shut you down and say “We gave that ONE POC a chance and he didn’t’ bring it” and everyone has to wait years for the next chance.
completly agree like there is definitely potential there as hes shown with like previous lines, this is just VERY literal for him AND for a *couture house*
Yanno what I was surprised how much I liked so many of the Fendi looks. Definitely some misses in there, as you pointed out lol. I appreciate all your work and descriptions for the video! :)
Yeah me too. I love the idea of all that white and beige for fall....Also that fur mosaic bolero was stunning. I felt vindicated that pieces that made me go "eeesh no" were also the one's Luke didn't like. :D
@@cinemaocd1752 for me it was the giant feather peacoat and dress that followed. The bolero was great too! You can tell he's bringing over that men's tailoring into Fendi and it really works for A/W when you have more trousers, coats, jackets, ect. Hope things don't take a turn again for S/S 2022 lol
Appreciated the history lesson - black history is history - Kirby gave us, but this collection is not haute couture. Don't know if he just has a bunch of "yespeople" working with him or what, but if he attempts haute couture again, do and complete the actual assignment.
I'm worried that Pyer Moss is read as "unworthy" or that is taking haute couture as a joke by some due to this collection. It was rough, but the worst part is that it could've been so good, the concept was very promising. Let's see what the brand does on the future.
Yeah, what we don't want as black people is to finally get invited to the power players table, but only out of pity and not be treated the same. Pyer Moss is in a different league now, and sure there may be some things that hold specific cultural significance that you Luke may not fully grasp the weight of, but that is the case with all cultures and should not disqualify you from researching and critiquing their application and translation of these themes into wearable art. I agree, Pyer Moss's display was disappointingly literal. I can understand his inclination to be so literal as sometimes, as black people, we fear the rest of the world won't understand our references or care to do the extensive research that Luke at this point is known for, but still I feel like this collection didn't utilize the same technical skill and nuance that Pyer has now become known for.
Kerby did an interview and said he was trolling for most of the collection. He thought the peanut butter was hilarious. So it’s been interesting to see how people interpret what he considered trolling.
It was a bad collection.thats it no one brought race to it also i dont get it is peanut butter black culture????💀and also its okay to criticize cultures
@@lina7413 it’s black history which is part of the culture and some people just might not know some of the references bc they’re nb. also luke brought race into it lmao. the collection wasn’t great but the essence of the oc still stands lol. why would it be okay to critique a culture if it isn’t urs ... unless the culture is causing harm to someone, you should mind your business.
The Fendi collection proves that a definitive designer vision for a collection's theme is critical but also is excellent tailoring, attractive silhouette, intricate materials and artisans to piece it together. I understand the important theme of history that Kerby-Jean Raymond was trying to convey, perhaps he should have added a second set of looks in the same collection using the feeling, colors and shapes to reflect more subtly what the more literal fashion was presenting.
Pyer Moss collection seems like a school project that you have to finish it even if you dont really feel it and you wrap it up just to pass with the average grade...
Love the first Fendi men’s suit with the face silhouette in floral motif. The white fur suit!!! “Chef’s kiss” As for Pyer Moss…Bruh man, you gotta sell clothes. Love his creativity… Love the black history lesson in August…BUT….You gotta SELL the clothes. Hoping he gets as many chances/seasons to find his footing as his white colleagues because we get ONE chance…ONE person and if it doesn’t work they say “We tried” and then no POC get the same chance for the next decade. 🤞🏾
Pyer moss brought to you by the Michael’s clearance aisle. Kirby’s previous collections were beautiful! Who told him this was good? He needs to start purging the yes men
no offense to Pyer Moss but like, I honestly think that any semi competent designer could have done something much more fun, interesting, thought provoking, and cool. I want a George Washington Carver dress that's a really dramatic peanut shape, damn it.
Thank you for your candor! It's a tricky proposition because we all applauded the opportunity that was given to Pyer Moss. We were rooting them, we were all rooting for them 😂 But the fact is that the show was ill-conceived and poorly executed. Period-t.
Camp is fun, pushes edges, and blurs lines. Most of the Pyer Moss collection was just... literal costumes. The concept was fabulous but the execution just was not there.
I really enjoyed the fendi looks i feel like there was a lot of byzantine influences with the mosaics and the use of jewellery. i'm not a fan of fur in fashion (however i'm not opposed to indigenous/arctic peoples needing it to survive) so i would really like to see kim jones use his ingenuity and experimentation in techniques to maybe do something like what chopova lowena does with using discarded textiles with fur or even attempting his own faux fur
First thing i learned in my fashion design studies ? don't be litteral. Design is about taking a reference, extracting an idea or concept, and Then apply it in you own unique style. Recreating things that already exist in another field of design and not changing anything is a bit sad... Let's hope for the next Pyer Moss collections ! Loved lots of fabrics manipulation and drapes in the Fendi show :)
I feel like the tent would have been more interesting as a final look where half way down the runway the model unzipped it and walked out in a gown of the same colors.
Fact check babe, it was Patrick Kelly that was the first black couturier to be scheduled for any couture week. And before him before there were ever shows, jay jackson was a highly known black couturier as well.
Ok but where she's standing in front of the table wearing the traffic light outfit really puts the leg of the table in an unfortunate place and I can't unsee it. 😂
I normally route for a underdog but the Pyer Moss collection was just dreadful. I feel sorry for the families of the inventors that Kerby chose to “honour” 💩
Pyer collection is just BAD. Stop trying to make it sound soft, its just bad. Thats not couture by any means. Those are literally halloween costumes but since he made history we are supposed to praise him and appreciate the story behind? No. Elie Saab is not praised because of the stories he wants to tell, nor Alexandre nor Zuhair. When Chanel or Dior is reviewed we talk about DESING, fitting, craftmanship, details. But okay hes the first black designer to ever show couture, it doesnt matter he showed NOTHING about couture lets say its an amazing collection otherwise we're racists. Sorry but no. I know I sound exagerated but I felt he was very disrespectful to the couture ... institute, or whatever since he got this opportunity but decided to send that on the runway. Even Moschino knows how to make gimmickness weareble, this was just a school costume game, not even RTW.
Excuse me, but that Fendi dress (3rd? after the gorgeous black model with white mesh) has the pattern printed ON the pleats. Or better yet, it was pleated in such a way as to 'assemble' the puzzle pieces of the pattern. I appreciate the origami precision of that creation.
Wow never been a big fendi fan but I kind of really enjoy a lot of that collection! the first couple of looks were honestly stunning, like it’s clean and modern but also romantic and classic, which is not an easy combo to pull off. I don’t adore the use of fur and animal skin though, and I’d enjoy it way more if they sourced the fur and skins from vintage pieces, especially when so many of the items are already employing the use of piecing. It would have been a great way to promote sustainability and appeal to a younger and more environmentally/socially conscious audience
I can respect that the Pyer Moss collection is more of a statement and exhibit collection, but I really want the next collection to be a real thing because Kirby's work is exquisite and the real disappointment I felt was in not getting a real hc collection from him.
See, on one hand I feel like Pyer Moss was trolling the audience by trying to combat the idea that the first time a black person is given an opportunity in a white dominated space it has so be so absolutely amazing (and let's be real, the idea of 'black excellence' can be detrimental). Something along the lines of the first couture show by a black designer needing to encompass all of the greatness black people have and can offer. Ok, fine. But how does making the show into a Black History Month special combat the pressure to make black history? Especially when the designs themselves aren't anything to write home about? He should've just stayed true to himself, and THAT'S what makes the show so damn disappointing for me 😔
i definitely agree that there is probably some trolling going on there. Plenty of white designers go and make couture looks that are great and if he made something similar of value, plenty of white critics are going to call him mediocre no matter what. With rtw his shows have always been for black people at the forefront, that is the world of ready to wear. There arent as many of the audience he wants and caters to in the couture world which comprises of old white money. But Kerby did say this is only their first couture show and they have plans for more, so maybe this was his way of catching this new audience up to what he is about before he really perfects his angle for future couture collections.
I didn‘t like the Pyer Moss collection for several reasons. The base idea of honouring black American history definitely not being one of them. What stuck out to me was the poor craftmanship on some of the garments. For example the visible glue or adhesive on the chess suit or the unclean hem on the peanut butter jar. Overall disappointing, especially considering the great work we are used to seeing from this brand, as you stated in the video.
Yeah, pyer moss was a fail for me. I get wanting the collection to highlight black creators/inventors/etc, but these were so freaking costumey. And even if I put aside how my brain screams expectations of a show to display once in a life pieces of clothing, in my opinion they aren’t beautiful, innovative, or interesting enough to compensate for the likeness to Halloween costumes. Just very literal reproductions of things found in the world.
during the fendi look (8:56) you mention that the print allows for a world of customization for clients, is that a common thing for ateliers to do for haute couture clients? customizing prints? genuinely wondering since I've never heard about that ...but I'm also not an expert at all
On top off all that's being said on the literal nature of the designs, they run into being called costumes. Badly made costumes made from a NYC designer when NYC is the mecca of actual costume design. Or the fact that V&R's designs are impeccably constructed while being camp AF.
What if Pyer Moss‘ collection is so literal and on the nose because it‘s hard to forget something this „shocking“? Like, I feel as though none of us could ever forget the peanut butter jar as it was one of the more jarring moments lol. Seriously though, it feels like he tried to first of all remind or tell us that these things were invented by black people and second of all make it impossible to forget because a show that so many people have such strong feelings about is harder to forget than a fairly decent show with ok clothes that don‘t upset anybody. And he was smart enough to still allow for some clever tailoring to shine through in some of the pieces.
@@juliawidmaier5334 and they sent another model wearing a refrigerator in the end! Like Luke said: "imagine you were a Dior model and Maria Gracia gave you a box. A BOX!"
Baroque sculpture was famous for adding life to sculptures by incorporating asymmetrical poses which appear more natural, but also move the eye around the sculpture, and add movement. The use of pleating and asymmetry is probably his true nod to this historical sculptural style… but in a very technical historical way….
I agree the the Fendi brought back the the old furrier and that dress as the beginning should have matched the clients skin. The pure white coat that looks like it had leaves and flowers sculpted into it. Super cool, I want that coat soooo badly. Hey Luke just was wondering if you had any ideas about Roasting the Savage by Fenty X3 on Amazon Prime
I like that he is talking about the inventors of these. I am not a big fan of the collection itself but the stories of the inventors is interesting. I loved super soakers as a kid. I didn’t like the outfit though. I really like that we have good horseshoes to protect the hoof, but not a big fan of the look. This history is really cool though.
Fun fact, Lonnie Johnson actually works at my high school now, also fun fact, I learned that 3 days ago, and now I’m freaking out cuz the universe is like listening to me or something
Hi Luke - I love your content and was wondering if you would consider doing other overseas fashion weeks? I'm specifically interested in Korea or Australia.
The fire extinguisher, hair roller and lamp dress were all excellent! BUT I agree that the Pyer Moss collection was too on the nose for me - I'd rather infer the reference that have it ponded into my head. The collection doesn't grab the imagination, entice buyers or make one interested in the RTW. Maybe next season... Fendi and a lot of good although the use of fur still makes me uncomfortable - at least is not the reams of fur from the Lagerfield days.
i wish pyer moss had tried to create a new textile similar to that of paco rabanne's chainmail to suit the horseshoe theme with interlocking horse shoes
I totally loved the Fendi textures, though I am of mixed feelings about fur. However, I find the Pyer Moss' collection feels like what we did while experimenting in first year fashion school. Really not impressed with the craft. (And it is not Radio City musical quality, it is high school musical quality at best).
Was not expecting it but a lot of those Fendi looks were so good. A few of those definitely going on the "when I win the big lottery" list! Shame about the Pyer Moss...
I personally would be insulted if a designer said they were representing my culture and history at Haute Couture and then put on a show like this. Pyer Moss’ collections are typically immaculate and stunning, so using this one important opportunity to not only troll, but completely miss the mark is frustrating to everyone who was rooting for Kirby. Fendi was definitely very nice, albeit boring at times.
I like the concept of the Pyer moss collection, and I feel it deserves much more respect than it’s getting but I definitely needed a second and third opinion on it as I’m not as well-versed in Couture and can’t give an unbiased opinion yet.
Being the furthest thing from a fashionista, I can literally see me wearing EVERY look down the runway. Literally EVERY look!!! Maybe it's cuz my fav color is white/off white. Would I feel the same if these pieces were in dark fall colors?? Definitely not. But still, I have never been this impressed by any single showing since...well...never. Lemme get my $$ up so I can redo my closet. Not likely so I'll be looking for ALL the knockoffs. Let's go counterfeiters!!! U have an anxious customer!!!
Love the review , BUT , you do use the word print WAYYYY to often and sometimes when things are not actually printed , most of the fabrics you see are weaved , which being extremely time consuming and expensive makes the "couture" aspect and actual value of certain pieces way higher, for example : Look 18/32 , wore by Model Kiki Willems , is actually a weave silk jacquard with embroidery on top . and same for most of the looks from that section of the show , jacquard like that can't really be cut or shaped by the usual draping techniques that's why some of the garments feature a rather stiff look and those exaggerated over hangs of silk. note that this technique of weaving and making fabric is slowly disappearing and can only be seen in haute couture .
we have an america themed met gala coming up don't we? petition for someone to wear the giant peanut butter jar just for gags
I'd put my money on Katy Perry if she was going
Listeeeeen this is a call! They should make it happen hahaha.
Somebody needs to get Katy Perry on the phone 😅
didnt she wear a burger lol, she should just wear the entire pyer moss collection 🤣
everyone saying katy here, 100% agreed
It’s disappointing that the Pyer Moss looks seemed so costumy, but the FAR more disappointing this is that they just looked plain CHEAP. Moschino and others have shown that campy and costumy is okay as long as the construction and design skills are solid. These unfortunately seemed like a misguided fashion student’s take on couture, where they think props will save a lack of vision and ability. It was even more disappointing that we saw flashes of brilliance that made the lows seem even worse.
Jeremy Scott really have done camp better
My thoughts exactly
You gave a respectful and honest, constructive criticism of the "Pyer Moss" collection. I agreed with this critique. It was too literal and campy. It lacked true couture construction for a majority of the looks. I hope he takes notes and comes back next season bigger and better.
I wouldn’t have handled it so professionally, this collection is a joke. What rich, uncreative people do when they’re bored.
@@plushstrawberryfrog no Luke is gonna be roast everything i hope 😉😁
I think it was extra disappointing because he’s such a talented designer! Like the concept of showcasing black inventors is fantastic, and if he’d done it with the skill that we’ve seen from him before, it would have been an absolutely iconic collection. So much wasted potential with this collection
The thing is, he roasted MGC to death while he sounded somewhat reserved here. It is what it is. A missed opportunity. Regardless of the message behind the collection, to send a tent or a literal peanut butter jar costume is unacceptable. And no, I'm no MGC at Dior fan. But at least you can wear them.
“Things take time, also I’m great at procrastinating” LMAO RELATABLE
i really liked this Fendi collection, the majority of the designs are very beautiful
As much as I want to like Pyer Moss collection I felt soo underwhelmed by it… coming from someone who is Black myself as I’m always rooting for everyone Black but I feel like it could have been much more couture for me. And it kinda upset me because I was really hoping he would show up and show out but….
Feel the same. We get very few chances and you gotta be at 100 or they shut you down and say “We gave that ONE POC a chance and he didn’t’ bring it” and everyone has to wait years for the next chance.
Yes!!!
He's presenting appliances of shop in mall not his fashion ( Pyer Moss)
completly agree like there is definitely potential there as hes shown with like previous lines, this is just VERY literal for him AND for a *couture house*
Pyer Moss's collection looks like something you'd find in an eccentric Halloween costume shop.
Jade Lee 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Agree. Not beautiful to me at all
Holy crap 🤣🤣😂💀
Yanno what I was surprised how much I liked so many of the Fendi looks. Definitely some misses in there, as you pointed out lol. I appreciate all your work and descriptions for the video! :)
Yeah me too. I love the idea of all that white and beige for fall....Also that fur mosaic bolero was stunning. I felt vindicated that pieces that made me go "eeesh no" were also the one's Luke didn't like. :D
I loved them.
@@cinemaocd1752 for me it was the giant feather peacoat and dress that followed. The bolero was great too! You can tell he's bringing over that men's tailoring into Fendi and it really works for A/W when you have more trousers, coats, jackets, ect. Hope things don't take a turn again for S/S 2022 lol
Same
The Fendi collection was stunning! True haute couture
Appreciated the history lesson - black history is history - Kirby gave us, but this collection is not haute couture. Don't know if he just has a bunch of "yespeople" working with him or what, but if he attempts haute couture again, do and complete the actual assignment.
The Pyer Moss collection feels too literal...
it really is.
literal is the new ironic?...enigmatic? Taken that way, it is perhaps more interesting 🤔
Strangely I still think it was beautiful
I feel the same way
@@jennyruth5620 no just lazier
I'm worried that Pyer Moss is read as "unworthy" or that is taking haute couture as a joke by some due to this collection. It was rough, but the worst part is that it could've been so good, the concept was very promising. Let's see what the brand does on the future.
Yeah, what we don't want as black people is to finally get invited to the power players table, but only out of pity and not be treated the same. Pyer Moss is in a different league now, and sure there may be some things that hold specific cultural significance that you Luke may not fully grasp the weight of, but that is the case with all cultures and should not disqualify you from researching and critiquing their application and translation of these themes into wearable art. I agree, Pyer Moss's display was disappointingly literal. I can understand his inclination to be so literal as sometimes, as black people, we fear the rest of the world won't understand our references or care to do the extensive research that Luke at this point is known for, but still I feel like this collection didn't utilize the same technical skill and nuance that Pyer has now become known for.
👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
So well said!
Kerby did an interview and said he was trolling for most of the collection. He thought the peanut butter was hilarious. So it’s been interesting to see how people interpret what he considered trolling.
It was a bad collection.thats it no one brought race to it also i dont get it is peanut butter black culture????💀and also its okay to criticize cultures
@@lina7413 it’s black history which is part of the culture and some people just might not know some of the references bc they’re nb. also luke brought race into it lmao. the collection wasn’t great but the essence of the oc still stands lol. why would it be okay to critique a culture if it isn’t urs ... unless the culture is causing harm to someone, you should mind your business.
I caaaaaant with the folding chair just flung onto the model likeeeee HOOOWWW AND WHYYY
Love how Luke can intertwine appreciation of a reference and criticism of the final look so well! Very well said.
Huge improvement over at Fendi! Happy to see it.
The Fendi collection proves that a definitive designer vision for a collection's theme is critical but also is excellent tailoring, attractive silhouette, intricate materials and artisans to piece it together. I understand the important theme of history that Kerby-Jean Raymond was trying to convey, perhaps he should have added a second set of looks in the same collection using the feeling, colors and shapes to reflect more subtly what the more literal fashion was presenting.
Here for the rather lovely description of every piece (: 🧡💫
Pyer Moss collection seems like a school project that you have to finish it even if you dont really feel it and you wrap it up just to pass with the average grade...
That on jar is straight up a Halloween costume. Yikes on a lot of these
🤣🤣🤣 yeah kinda pissed me.
You're right. He gave a history lesson and forgot the real assignment. There's nothing about the Pyer Moss collection that resembled haute couture.
The Fendi pink marble dress is everything ...love it ❤️
I lovvve the big, fluffy grey gown from the Fendi collection. I hope to see it somewhere on a red carpet this year…
Love the first Fendi men’s suit with the face silhouette in floral motif. The white fur suit!!! “Chef’s kiss”
As for Pyer Moss…Bruh man, you gotta sell clothes. Love his creativity… Love the black history lesson in August…BUT….You gotta SELL the clothes. Hoping he gets as many chances/seasons to find his footing as his white colleagues because we get ONE chance…ONE person and if it doesn’t work they say “We tried” and then no POC get the same chance for the next decade. 🤞🏾
Pyer moss brought to you by the Michael’s clearance aisle. Kirby’s previous collections were beautiful! Who told him this was good? He needs to start purging the yes men
I didnt know Pyer Moss collabed with Party City
Stahhhhp😩🤣
no offense to Pyer Moss but like, I honestly think that any semi competent designer could have done something much more fun, interesting, thought provoking, and cool. I want a George Washington Carver dress that's a really dramatic peanut shape, damn it.
How do we honour our inventors the best way?
I know! Let's have the models carry a sculpture!
The perfect lining up of the pattern on the Fendi tailored suit was "chef's kiss".
You have a skilled eye for design and a understanding of what is essential to create a good collection .I found all your points relevant.Bravo!
Thank you for your candor! It's a tricky proposition because we all applauded the opportunity that was given to Pyer Moss. We were rooting them, we were all rooting for them 😂 But the fact is that the show was ill-conceived and poorly executed. Period-t.
Honestly even tho i love camp, i absolutely hate that pyer moss collection.
Camp is fun, pushes edges, and blurs lines. Most of the Pyer Moss collection was just... literal costumes. The concept was fabulous but the execution just was not there.
You did a great job ! I agree with just about everything you said. Thanks for your review! I LIVE!!!!
I really enjoyed the fendi looks i feel like there was a lot of byzantine influences with the mosaics and the use of jewellery.
i'm not a fan of fur in fashion (however i'm not opposed to indigenous/arctic peoples needing it to survive) so i would really like to see kim jones use his ingenuity and experimentation in techniques to maybe do something like what chopova lowena does with using discarded textiles with fur or even attempting his own faux fur
First thing i learned in my fashion design studies ? don't be litteral. Design is about taking a reference, extracting an idea or concept, and Then apply it in you own unique style. Recreating things that already exist in another field of design and not changing anything is a bit sad... Let's hope for the next Pyer Moss collections ! Loved lots of fabrics manipulation and drapes in the Fendi show :)
I feel like the tent would have been more interesting as a final look where half way down the runway the model unzipped it and walked out in a gown of the same colors.
Give us something! Big give us nothing energy.
@@foxycinnamon7307 100% agree
Fact check babe, it was Patrick Kelly that was the first black couturier to be scheduled for any couture week. And before him before there were ever shows, jay jackson was a highly known black couturier as well.
I so adored Patrick Kelly. Gone too soon.
“Karlie Kloss kind of camp” i screamed 😭😭😭
Ok but where she's standing in front of the table wearing the traffic light outfit really puts the leg of the table in an unfortunate place and I can't unsee it. 😂
I hope Pyer Moss can make a comeback from this next season....... Fendi was pretty solid this season tho, there were some gorgeous looks in there
I normally route for a underdog but the Pyer Moss collection was just dreadful. I feel sorry for the families of the inventors that Kerby chose to “honour” 💩
Pyer collection is just BAD. Stop trying to make it sound soft, its just bad. Thats not couture by any means. Those are literally halloween costumes but since he made history we are supposed to praise him and appreciate the story behind? No. Elie Saab is not praised because of the stories he wants to tell, nor Alexandre nor Zuhair. When Chanel or Dior is reviewed we talk about DESING, fitting, craftmanship, details. But okay hes the first black designer to ever show couture, it doesnt matter he showed NOTHING about couture lets say its an amazing collection otherwise we're racists. Sorry but no. I know I sound exagerated but I felt he was very disrespectful to the couture ... institute, or whatever since he got this opportunity but decided to send that on the runway. Even Moschino knows how to make gimmickness weareble, this was just a school costume game, not even RTW.
Can you do a redesign of these collections in your next video? Kind of like how people redesign apps to make them more accessible for users
Excuse me, but that Fendi dress (3rd? after the gorgeous black model with white mesh) has the pattern printed ON the pleats. Or better yet, it was pleated in such a way as to 'assemble' the puzzle pieces of the pattern. I appreciate the origami precision of that creation.
Wow never been a big fendi fan but I kind of really enjoy a lot of that collection! the first couple of looks were honestly stunning, like it’s clean and modern but also romantic and classic, which is not an easy combo to pull off.
I don’t adore the use of fur and animal skin though, and I’d enjoy it way more if they sourced the fur and skins from vintage pieces, especially when so many of the items are already employing the use of piecing. It would have been a great way to promote sustainability and appeal to a younger and more environmentally/socially conscious audience
Simply gorgeous pieces and materials with the first show
Oh my god that white cocktail dress is fabulous.
Wait.. how did we hang curtains before rods? Nailed to wooden beams? Hook clips on a wire?
I can respect that the Pyer Moss collection is more of a statement and exhibit collection, but I really want the next collection to be a real thing because Kirby's work is exquisite and the real disappointment I felt was in not getting a real hc collection from him.
Moss’s green-curtain look - I noticed the finials were hands forming the letters P and M in sign language.. clever……
Luke: "I didn't even know who Gian Lorenzo Bernini was until a week ago"
Me: **cries in italian**
Would love to hear you review the Netflix show on Halston
Pyer Moss was a huge let down.
I always cheer at the screen when you say "fugly." It just makes my day to have a professional use this term. You Rock, Luke!
See, on one hand I feel like Pyer Moss was trolling the audience by trying to combat the idea that the first time a black person is given an opportunity in a white dominated space it has so be so absolutely amazing (and let's be real, the idea of 'black excellence' can be detrimental). Something along the lines of the first couture show by a black designer needing to encompass all of the greatness black people have and can offer. Ok, fine. But how does making the show into a Black History Month special combat the pressure to make black history? Especially when the designs themselves aren't anything to write home about? He should've just stayed true to himself, and THAT'S what makes the show so damn disappointing for me 😔
i definitely agree that there is probably some trolling going on there. Plenty of white designers go and make couture looks that are great and if he made something similar of value, plenty of white critics are going to call him mediocre no matter what. With rtw his shows have always been for black people at the forefront, that is the world of ready to wear. There arent as many of the audience he wants and caters to in the couture world which comprises of old white money. But Kerby did say this is only their first couture show and they have plans for more, so maybe this was his way of catching this new audience up to what he is about before he really perfects his angle for future couture collections.
I didn‘t like the Pyer Moss collection for several reasons. The base idea of honouring black American history definitely not being one of them. What stuck out to me was the poor craftmanship on some of the garments. For example the visible glue or adhesive on the chess suit or the unclean hem on the peanut butter jar. Overall disappointing, especially considering the great work we are used to seeing from this brand, as you stated in the video.
And Carole Burnett called… She wants credit for the green curtain “sketch” she did in the 70’s
@@dimplesd8931 First thing I thought of.
Yeah, pyer moss was a fail for me. I get wanting the collection to highlight black creators/inventors/etc, but these were so freaking costumey. And even if I put aside how my brain screams expectations of a show to display once in a life pieces of clothing, in my opinion they aren’t beautiful, innovative, or interesting enough to compensate for the likeness to Halloween costumes. Just very literal reproductions of things found in the world.
I’ve been waiting for ur opinion on pyer moss 😌😌😌
i loved how kitchy the pye rmoss collection is actually lol but i guess it really doesn't play well as a haute couture collection
during the fendi look (8:56) you mention that the print allows for a world of customization for clients, is that a common thing for ateliers to do for haute couture clients? customizing prints? genuinely wondering since I've never heard about that ...but I'm also not an expert at all
On top off all that's being said on the literal nature of the designs, they run into being called costumes. Badly made costumes made from a NYC designer when NYC is the mecca of actual costume design. Or the fact that V&R's designs are impeccably constructed while being camp AF.
Great coverage of that pyer moss, still hated it but I get it now
What if Pyer Moss‘ collection is so literal and on the nose because it‘s hard to forget something this „shocking“? Like, I feel as though none of us could ever forget the peanut butter jar as it was one of the more jarring moments lol. Seriously though, it feels like he tried to first of all remind or tell us that these things were invented by black people and second of all make it impossible to forget because a show that so many people have such strong feelings about is harder to forget than a fairly decent show with ok clothes that don‘t upset anybody. And he was smart enough to still allow for some clever tailoring to shine through in some of the pieces.
I don’t know about you but I love the Fendi looks
That peanut butter reminds me of Maria Gracia's house box from two years ago.
Omg I thought the same thing. It was such an egregious choice for her.
@@juliawidmaier5334 and they sent another model wearing a refrigerator in the end! Like Luke said: "imagine you were a Dior model and Maria Gracia gave you a box. A BOX!"
Baroque sculpture was famous for adding life to sculptures by incorporating asymmetrical poses which appear more natural, but also move the eye around the sculpture, and add movement. The use of pleating and asymmetry is probably his true nod to this historical sculptural style… but in a very technical historical way….
this man taught me everything on fashion, i love you
I’m really surprised you didn’t mention the Fendi suit for men closer to the end… AMAZING!!!!
I agree the the Fendi brought back the the old furrier and that dress as the beginning should have matched the clients skin. The pure white coat that looks like it had leaves and flowers sculpted into it. Super cool, I want that coat soooo badly. Hey Luke just was wondering if you had any ideas about Roasting the Savage by Fenty X3 on Amazon Prime
Paloma Elsesser did a great Vogue 7 days, 7 looks! Would love to hear you comment on it please.
I like that he is talking about the inventors of these. I am not a big fan of the collection itself but the stories of the inventors is interesting. I loved super soakers as a kid. I didn’t like the outfit though. I really like that we have good horseshoes to protect the hoof, but not a big fan of the look. This history is really cool though.
5:44 Astrakhan:
Yes, the most desirable form of astrakhan is that from a lamb 15-30 days away from being born, and it is sourced
PLEASE DO A REACTION VIDEO ON ONE OF THE LUXURY HAULS OF JAIME XIE !!!!!
Fendi was lovely and I was surprised to be so impressed with “looks” I do not naturally notice, let alone enjoy.
Fun fact, Lonnie Johnson actually works at my high school now, also fun fact, I learned that 3 days ago, and now I’m freaking out cuz the universe is like listening to me or something
I love that fendi plume feather coat
I still want the Valentino review!!!!!!
Hi Luke - I love your content and was wondering if you would consider doing other overseas fashion weeks? I'm specifically interested in Korea or Australia.
The fire extinguisher, hair roller and lamp dress were all excellent! BUT I agree that the Pyer Moss collection was too on the nose for me - I'd rather infer the reference that have it ponded into my head. The collection doesn't grab the imagination, entice buyers or make one interested in the RTW. Maybe next season... Fendi and a lot of good although the use of fur still makes me uncomfortable - at least is not the reams of fur from the Lagerfield days.
“Not even a bad art project- just an art project”
100% can confirm as a former art school kid
The Pyer Moss's collection is honestly luxury costume
i wish pyer moss had tried to create a new textile similar to that of paco rabanne's chainmail to suit the horseshoe theme with interlocking horse shoes
Take a shot everytime Luke says "rather"
I think he is making us wait for a 2.0 version of the designs he served right now. It would be epic if he did.
Is that Paulina Porizkova modeling the white coat?
Ok but this Fendi collection? I love.
Fendi collection is stunning 😍
Fendi is killing it ! Just go faux fir pleaseeee
I totally loved the Fendi textures, though I am of mixed feelings about fur. However, I find the Pyer Moss' collection feels like what we did while experimenting in first year fashion school. Really not impressed with the craft. (And it is not Radio City musical quality, it is high school musical quality at best).
0:05 does anyone know what shoe this is from? It looks so cool
“Hard to take seriously” exactly
Was not expecting it but a lot of those Fendi looks were so good. A few of those definitely going on the "when I win the big lottery" list! Shame about the Pyer Moss...
i just wanna know what his opinion on hrh collection's style is
I personally would be insulted if a designer said they were representing my culture and history at Haute Couture and then put on a show like this. Pyer Moss’ collections are typically immaculate and stunning, so using this one important opportunity to not only troll, but completely miss the mark is frustrating to everyone who was rooting for Kirby.
Fendi was definitely very nice, albeit boring at times.
I like the concept of the Pyer moss collection, and I feel it deserves much more respect than it’s getting but I definitely needed a second and third opinion on it as I’m not as well-versed in Couture and can’t give an unbiased opinion yet.
Ostracon fur? Can anyone explain what this is?!
I just hope it's fake.
astrakhan fur. think it's a goat (?)
@@bethanyjensen7749 ewww!
Being the furthest thing from a fashionista, I can literally see me wearing EVERY look down the runway. Literally EVERY look!!! Maybe it's cuz my fav color is white/off white. Would I feel the same if these pieces were in dark fall colors?? Definitely not. But still, I have never been this impressed by any single showing since...well...never. Lemme get my $$ up so I can redo my closet. Not likely so I'll be looking for ALL the knockoffs. Let's go counterfeiters!!! U have an anxious customer!!!
Amazing video! Do you think you can do a critique on all black outfits? (Just a suggestion)
Love the review , BUT , you do use the word print WAYYYY to often and sometimes when things are not actually printed , most of the fabrics you see are weaved , which being extremely time consuming and expensive makes the "couture" aspect and actual value of certain pieces way higher, for example :
Look 18/32 , wore by Model Kiki Willems , is actually a weave silk jacquard with embroidery on top .
and same for most of the looks from that section of the show , jacquard like that can't really be cut or shaped by the usual draping techniques that's why some of the garments feature a rather stiff look and those exaggerated over hangs of silk. note that this technique of weaving and making fabric is slowly disappearing and can only be seen in haute couture .
Just the day I release my video of Couture Fashion Week with Fendi and Pyer Moss in it (in French). We're connected ❤️