Fashion Critics Reviews Spring 2021 Haute Couture (Dior, Iris Van Herpen, & Schiaparelli)
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- Опубліковано 26 січ 2021
- The second Haute Couture season during the Covid-19 pandemic is here and we have a lot to discuss! This is only the 1st of a 3 part series this week, so stay tuned! We first discuss Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli and his take on trying to redefine Couture. From references to Elsa Schiaparelli herself & Yves Saint Laurent, there was a lot to discuss! Iris Van Herpen returned to present a full collection after a semi-season off. Her "Roots of Rebirth" collection focused on fungi as the inspiration but reinforced classics in a smart yet reassuring way. And of course, Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior, which took on Christian Dior's love of tarot cards. The Visconti-Sforza deck from the 15th century was this season's inspiration, which allowed Maria Grazia to dig into her Italian roots, and well I don't mind it too much.
The shows:
Schiaparelli - • SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COU...
Iris Van Herpen - • Iris van Herpen ～ Root...
Christian Dior - • Video
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I really liked how you incorporated your critique of black women bodies who were (and are) subjected to masculinization, as a way to exclude them from feminity. Great review.
I think that the intention in the ‘masculine’ designs were rather to represent strength from the Black Lives Matter movement, yet I can’t deny they look rather androgynous and masculine, the approach was questionable. I also found weird how the white model was not only represented in a femenina way, but also very modest and almost religious, always in white, like a modern day virgin
@Dexy Nash there is no reason for you to be a ass.
@@alejochamorro4948 oh it may be that, but I am wondering if the association « masculine - strength » isn’t questionable in itself then. The pink dress was really interesting to me though.
I agree! You are so thoughtful and intelligent about your reviews, integrating not only little known fashion history but also subtle cultural points, as a black woman I was so pleasantly surprised that you picked up on something that I felt only black women would recognize. Bravo for so many reasons!
@@alejochamorro4948 I wish I could agree with the positive way you see it, but I think that your second point in many ways reveals the designer's (I'm sure unknown even to him) intentions. Black women are rarely depicted as feminine in popular culture - as virginal, or the damsel in distress. They are often masculinized in the way you just mentioned, and this far precedes the BLM movement.
Pointing out that they did not put the masculine pieces on the white model was necessary thank you
HUGE POINT!
@@kloy.m341 right?! it would have been slick
That's exactly what I thought first and was disgusted by that
@@Introvertsan it really wasn’t a huge problem- the collection is my favorite so far this year, it could be taken as black women being strong and powerful after the tough year we have had. it most definitely was not a purposeful thing but something that subconsciously the designer might have done.
@@louisaugustexvi4515 I think thats the point... many black women are speaking of not wanting to be constantly seen as being "strong." This perception is actually harmful in many contexts including medical.
Iris van Harpen and Schiaparelli snapped
Yes, they did!!!
A million percent agree!
So much fun on the schiaparelli ones ❤️❤️
This was the first time in a long time that I was actually impressed by Schiaparelli. I had thought they lost their magic years ago.
Definitely! If I had money to buy HC, it would definitely be Schiaparelli's pieces!
Iris van harpen's collection is something you would wear if you are in a "sci-fi futuristic movie where people live in mars and metgala is organised by different planets each year"...I just fell in love with it❤️❤️
i loved how the garments moved...there wasn't much there that i didn't like but I'm in my 50's and wear concert tshirts and hiking boots. I have no fashion style at all but man, that shit was beautiful!
I have always wanted Iris Van Herpen to work be the costume designer for a science fiction movie 😍I Can totally imagine a princess wearing one of these dress to a ball in year 3500 on Mars (Bridgerton x futurism x Iris Van Herpen needs to happen 😂)
She should do something for Marvel
Eternals would have been a great choice
when i heard "inspired by mushrooms" and "rebirth" and then saw the garments i definitely thought there was some psychedelic influence
You said exactly what I was thinking about the masculinization of black women. Love that I can count on you to question these things and point them out to people who might be unconscious of it!
People consider black women masculine?! I guess black women are often seen as outgoing, strong and/or regal which can be masculine. When just as many are shy and sweet. Come to think of it, you rarely see a girly big fluffy pink dress modelled on a black girl. They would choose a fair blonde girl.
@@em84c masculinity and black women have been a long time stereotype in society, I’m surprised you didn’t know but again this is more well known within Western societies such as the US.
Totally agree with you on the choices made by Schiaparelli to pair the more masculine styles with black models. I thought "maybe I am too critical" but you are right they need to look into whether their (un)conscious bias came into play with their decision making.
I agree with you but it’s sub-conscious 😉 otherwise everyone would be doing things whilst flat out unconscious 🤪
everyone is probably gonna hate me and yell at me but I actually enjoyed the dior collection, and thought some of the pieces were absolutely beautiful
Got to say I agree. Also saw how the opening dress was made, and the craftsmanship is incredible. .they used traditional etching and printing, hand painting the flowers on and then embroidering on top.
I really like dior’s ready to wear because they’re super wearable and with proper styling, versatile. For me, her newer work is super nice and beautiful especially the sheer dresses in this collection
I thought it was lovely, too
Same! I immediately looked up sheer button up blouses lol
Same! Some of it was amazing, I would wear that cape/robe thing to the Pope's balcony or the opera, if there were opera.
When I saw the nails I immediately thought if the women who are guiness world record holders. There was a point in time they were looked down on now look at everyone getting 12 inch acrylics. I also thought it was interesting that evey black model had a tough masculine design and even posed to suit
I still look down on people with such big nails, like ewwww don't want to imagine all the dirty under the nails and between the cheeks lol
@@blackcat6508 to each it's own I love them on other people not for me
I too thought it was interesting that the black models were wearing the masculine design and I think it’s kind of insensitive. Black women are already so heavily masculinized and I think that they should have at least evened out the designs between the models.
@@blackcat6508 so you just assume people don't have basic hygiene? Like, you know people clean their nails and wash their hands??? No matter the length, it's basic hygiene
@@magdalenamikulic4782 well, I work in the medical field, and we are all required to keep our nails short to reduce the rate of infections. There is evidence that short nails are more hygienic. Whether this means we should look down on someone with long nails is another story.
The long nails reminded me of Chinese culture when women grew out and decorated their nails to show their high social status ✨ I remember seeing photos of empress dowager Cixi and how lavish they looked 👀
Me too, I mainly thought of the aristocratic and royal women with long, naturally, decorated nails
the long nails reminded me of black culture because everyone on tiktok today definitely isnt getting long nails because of empress dowager cixi. not to erase the fact that long nails definitely were prominent in high class culture in asia, but they werent the ones subject to ridicule in schools like the average black kid with long, clacking acrylics were lol
@@tittylicker5320 in my school we weren't even allowed to wear nail polish let alone acrylics! 😭
@@tittylicker5320 A lot of couture clients are from Asia, and I don't think this show was a western-country-exclusive one. So I suppose the nails can remind different people of different elements in their own culture. I guess American clients will see it as a reference to the acrylic nails pioneered by black women, and Chinese clients will definitely think about the Empress Dowager Cixi.
@@tittylicker5320 of course ! I only meant to share what I was reminded of not to claim anything. I am not American so the immediate reference to long nails in black culture didn’t come to me (as I’m sure asian culture didn’t come to you) I’m always interested to learn and hear about other people’s experiences and culture 😊 hopefully all cultures of long nails can come to be admired and respected 👍
i kind of love Dior's collection.. it feels like I'm living in a Renaissance painting
Im obsessed with the photography from the dior collection. Im a painter and I admire how they're able to mimic the style and the look of the period. The lighting is gorgeous tho and I can't fathom how they got the softness of it.
This Dior collection in my opinion was the best one they have had in a while because it had more than two good looks
The plus size model is Sevdaliza. I am not suprised about her walking for IVH. Her music and the IVH brand make so much sense together (at least for me)
Is she even plus size?
@@fcs4710 I definitely don't see her as one, but Luke said "the plus size model." I know I am at least double her size 🤣
@@fcs4710 Right, I feel like she just has an athletic build
@@fcs4710 i would say she is normal size, she was even a pro athlete when she was younger.
@@TheUntitledSimmer Yes, though in fashion she is considerd plus zise
i am ALWAYS here for Luke’s investigations & critiques on race & fashion. whoever says “stop bringing race into it” can take every damn seat.
Thank you❤️
Hey Luke! About the finger nails I agree! I just want to add that the Chinese also have a history of long extended nails. Especially with nail caps in gold as seen on the Schiaparelli model. It’s been worn during the Qing dynasty!
Too the models of Schiaparelli: Are your ears ok?
I think the plus-sized model youre referring to in IVH's runway is Sevdaliza.
I'm still mindblown by the fact that Sevdaliza would be plus-size!
He doesn't know Sevdaliza?
@@giovanni2585 hes not gay enough
Every video from Sevdaliza is an artwork in its own right. Start with "Marilyn Monroe". Must watch, Luke!
Video for "That other girl" actually presents something very similar to Schiaparelli corsets.
The fact that she would be considered plus-sized🙃
Anybody else had the impression that at the Iris van Herpen show the shoes didn't fit a lot of models properly? Many had a weird and un-elegant walk in my opinion
Yes! I couldn't look at how they walked.
The shoes were made by kira goodey, she design the namilia renaissance shoes ss19, and she usually is really good but idk what happened here
I had the same impression! The shoes looked wobbly.
Yes. I didn't like the shoes and they looked uncomfortable as hell. The models seemed barely able to walk.
agree. had me wondering what other shoes should be worn
I absolutely loved Schiaperelli!. It oozed camp and class and all the outfits were beyond stunning especially the blazer with the squiggly embroidery 💕💕
The photography is rather beautiful for Dior, even if the clothes aren’t always so great, at least in my opinion.
"But with this, everyone can have one." Getting plastic surgery to get 6-pack is cheaper than getting one of Schiaparelli's bodices..
Yea it's more of a lazy of getting one though 😆 No working out or surgery..but you have to be rich. Lucky I don't want a 6 pack. It would make more sense to make it for menswear.
@@em84c but it being for men’swear wouldn’t be as meaningful , the whole idea of it being women having these symbols of masculinity is very interesting while on men it wouldn’t
@@candle4864 yeah sure that's what makes it interesting but not many people will wear it. Which is ofc fine since that only lends to its exclusivity.
I think i'll buy six pack.of beer
@@jamiecrucefix4078 😁
I think this is the nicest you have talked about any Dior collection haha
“it’s ugly. thus i don’t care” CRYING
I kind of liked the dior "fool" look and wish more of the looks were noticeably tarrot related, though I love the blue gown alot more knowing it's meant to represent death.
The Dior jacquard robe is divine. I would wearing it while lounging on my couch, eating ice cream from the tub, and binge watching Project Runway.
Iris Van Herpen’s was a work of pure art. It moved and breathed
Luke, if Maria Grazia is behind the camera holding a gun and making you give her a positive review, blink three times or wear yellow on your next insta photo! #FreeLuke
For the long nails, it's hard to tell but if the model was of Chinese decent, it could be a call to the long fake nails noblewoman wore during the Ming Dynasty. Also, nail salon workers are often (or at least depicted as) Asian.
no, it is true that nails have become part of Asian American’s culture. they have I wanna say like at least a 30% stake in the market? around 130k nail salons in the us are asian owned typically Vietnamese. And they’re proud of it too ❤️♥️
is it my speakers or the sound is just terrible?
Totally agreed, the adio is really bad in this video
No it's really bad, it kind of hurts my ears even though I turned the volume down. Something obviously went wrong
it makes it so hard to watch ;(((
yea it’s just a bit crunchy
It sounds normal to me... Maybe its fixed now
I need Iris Van Herpen to make the dress from barbi and the swan lake so bad its litterally up her ally with Ombre effect, and feather cutouts now im not saying it should be identical to the one from the movie but i would die
det kunne være ret fucking sejt
When I saw the schiaparelli and iris van herpen collection I wanted every piece in my special closet
I can not believe people don’t know who Sevdaliza is! Her walking for Iris Van Herpen is everything
Why does a piece of clothing have to be revolutionary every time. Cant it just be beautiful.. ?
Iris Van herpen’s glamorization of nature and science is honestly so refreshing, as the beauty space often feels a bit anti-intellectual. Plus it appeals to both my fashion, science, and sc-fi nerd sides
i was also wondering why schiaparelli decided to put all the masculine forms on the black model, glad you talked about it
I've never thought of black women as masculine. I wonder why they did. Is that a thing? (Black women being masculinised?)
@@em84c Yes, Black women are often criticized for being less feminine than white women
@@AmandaVieiraMamaesouCult it sucks because then you have beautiful powerful black women like Michelle Obama, who is strong, and elegant. But people will attack her for being “a man” or being “trans” its awful.
That pink Schiaparelli gown is making me lose my mind 😳
Sorry but I cannot comprehend saying any of the dresses in Iris Van Herpen's are not groundbreaking. Every look is astonishingly beautiful and unique. The silhouettes and the textiles are pure art. Doing something so different with every look.
The name of the "plus size model" is sevdaliza and its a great singeeeer!!!!!!
I can’t believe she’s considered plus size
@@natya3121 me neither 🙈
If she is "plus size" i dont now what i am 😅
My God...the Iris van Herpen garments are stunning! Every one of them is interesting and beautiful. Wow!
That "plus sized model" for Iris Van Herpen is Sevdaliza! She's an amazing artist, and I love her music.
The Iris van Harpen collection is always a delight for the eye and soul!
Guys, I don’t wanna be rude but as a content creator, I think it’s very important to uplift the work of the creator before asking/suggesting anything else. I hope no one will take this the wrong way (and I also would be glad if Luke reviewed the Haim video because it was fun and I love the group) BUT it needed to be said. This took I am sure a LOT of work so let’s appreciate that.
This is a fashion CRITIC channel. The key is in the name.
@@francisedward8713 since when critic means « not recognizing the work of the content creator who spent hours to produce something that we can all enjoy for free » ? He does that in every video, we could do the same.
So everyone has to compliment before suggesting a video idea? I think Luke knows we love his videos. People wouldn't be suggesting other ideas if they didn't love his content.
@@misscameroun237 recognising the amount of work a “creator” puts into their work =/= uplifting a creator. PERIODT. it is not the job of a critic to uplift someone. but we can all agree, for example, that even though Maria grazias designs are boring and quite terrible, YES she puts a lot of work into it. duh. without putting hours in there would be nothing to criticise. so I think critics do recognise the amount of work it takes, but that does not determine whether something is subjectively good or bad. and similarly, if a critic wants to absolutely criticise something, then they CAN do so. anything that is put out there for people to see is fair game to critiques, even heavy handed ones. grow a thicker skin. c’est la vie.
One thing this man always does is advocates and informs of POCs and our history and place in fashion and society. That is HUGE and another reason why I love him so much
You're always saying what everyone's thinking tysm for calling them out on it all
I just love ur videos. Every time I come back from school and I watch one of your videos I smile and not a lot of people can do that. And, also thanks to you, I decided to follow my life long dream to become a fashion designer ❤️
I can't believe how you call ANY of this ugly. This collection is right on the money. Just spectacular.
Okay, I need those Schiaparelli boots with the gold toes ASAP!
I’m binge watching your previous videos! Love your channel! Thank you for insightful, educational yet entertaining content! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻❤️
This is my favourite commentary of yours yet. Not to disregard your other videos but your critique is better written and more developed than ever!
Stan Sevdaliza modeling for Marinne Serre AND Ivh! Absolute icon. Highly reccomend her music too
I couldn't help but notice you're wearing Marimekko's jacket! As a finn I'm super intrigued to know do you like Marimekko as a brand or only that one specific print/jacket?
@ada_cant thanks! I was wondering where he got it, bc I have never seen Marimekko sell that kind of a jacket in Finland. But I totally forgot the uniqlo collab (we don’t have uniqlo stores here). I saw uniqlo sell a jumpsuit with that same print as I was traveling in Thailand, but sadly chose not to buy it. Regrets..
You just keep getting better and better at your job. Love this and the last several videos!
I really think Luke would enjoy looking at the fashion of Jojo's Bizarre Adventure...
I love your videos. I'm a maker (sorta, i try) and i love hearing the history and thought behind the pieces. I get so much inspiration for my own wardrobe from reviews like these
Love you Luke. Thanks for bringing me joy in this crazy pandemic
9:05 you have to drop a fashion history video about charles james now and how his iconic sometimes phallic shaped designs(and how he was a bit of a dick himself) and revolutionized fashion and how they still are an inspo for so many other brands.
I misread it as “James Charles”, and spent a good ten minutes on his website trying to figure out how his merch changed fashion
@@carolineedlund4931 same
@@carolineedlund4931 😂😂😂
I didn't even THINK about the acrylic nails w Schiaparelli and how they should be on a Black model so thank you for bringing this up because you're right!! they SHOULD be on a Black model!!!
facepalm, you really don't know much about the history of nails do you??
Your Haute Couture review videos are always my favorite!!
The only video I was waiting for after watching the three collections. Yaaasss❤️❤️❤️
i really appreciate how your channel is a history lesson as well as a fashion show.
That sheer grey and silver dior gown is stunning, the photo is pretty and interesting enough to be an art piece lol
Last time I came this early, I fell pregnant.
🤣🤣🤣
😭😭😭
🤣🤣
Girl....😂🙈
i simply love u!! always learning all the things from you... the best
u reflective af i vibe w that
You're review was smart and educated. I really enjoyed your take on many aspects of the shows. AND your hair looks fantastic lately!
I LOVED the Dior collection and concept, fight me 😂
I always enjoy your intro tune!!!
Wow! The van Herpen collection was mind blowingly beautiful!!!
how do you know so muchhhh about fashion history? damn you know every detail, I'm impressed!!
You are brilliant as always!
Waaaait Luke!! The earrings don’t hold up the dress!! Someone had to clarify that it’s actually a headband 😄 I thought it was her earrings too much like many others haha
I was wondering why her ears didn’t look stretched from the weight of the fabric but that explains a lot
are you gonna review HAIM’s vogue outfits??? they’re a great band too!!!
I couldn't help comparing in my mind what Lee McQueen would have done with Italian Renaissance as a collection.
I absolutely love your channel ❤
thank you for speaking up about the importance of recognizing black culture with the long nails! you were absolutely in the right to say that
I hate to break it to you, but black women did not invent, nor are they owners of the exclusive rights to long nails. Like, I've worn long nails, my mom has worn long acrylic nails most of her life... just go look at the youtubers who currently wear long nails.
I found that to be rather racist actually, this idea that only black women have ever had really long nails is just incorrect. Just because two black women held world records, does not make it exclusive to black culture. Like... seriously wtf...
Let's ignore the rest of the world, as usual. Long nails are Made in the USA. (BUT NO)
@@aliz4467 but that’s not what he said… like at all. Long nails like that have been a cultural staple of the black community and have been popular among black women longer than it has with other communities and the recent popularity of long acrylics is because of black women. It’s kind of like how other cultures have their own versions of beer, but people usually associate Germany with good beer because beer has been a German cultural staple for centuries.
The long gold nails, are more associates with India and Thailand (fingernail dance/ Fawn Lep). I could be mistaken.
@@user-xh6jk4mi8u My issue with the idea he presented, is that long nails MUST refer to a black person, and thus be cultural appropriation. The only other references that may have led to that interpretation might have been the earrings in the collection, but to me that does not warrant the assumption either. It's like we just decided "these two black women deserve credit full for this" ignoring entirely international context. It's narrow minded.
When I saw those rings, I did not think of a black woman. So when he brought it up I was rather confused. Hell, I've en seen men with nails that long, so it's not even exclusively female. Not everything deserves to be about race.
The circle chest pieces in the more old timy looks made me think of the center of where decorative rays might come out in old religious painting
Hi Luke, just wanted to say thank you for how much I have learnt about fashion from you...I've always been interested in fashion..I really really loved architectural designs but that was about it...with your help learning about referential designs and artistic inspirations of designers and brand history has been a revelationary and joyous ride, enabling me to understand and view a whole new world of beauty and art. Being from a poor family, I couldn't really afford vogue, wwd etc, so, Chanel's History videos on the official channel were a treat! But then you came along and not only brought treats but a full 3-course meal with entrees, main and dessert. Love you and THANK you for all the great content!!
Also, just a reminder to everyone, DO NOT FUCKING SKIP ADs. That's how the creators make money. UA-cam has already made the money from the Ads themselves, but the creators haven't.
You are always teaching the kids luke. I love to see it ❤
Schiaparelli never disappoints to amaze me
Thank you. Always look forward to Haut le Mode. Whether the fashion is good or bad, you are always very entertaining.
Been waiting for this!!!!
The best review!! ⭐️
I would love to see you roasting the shit out of your subscribers fashion choices🤗
AND reacting to old award shows! I mean Pink at the VMA's 2000 was...a...thing... I guess😅
Luc waxing poetic over Iris van Herpen is the tea I need on a gloomy winter evening in Bavaria! Dankeschön!
You are my vogue , bazar ,W , ELLE . Of the 90s. When I would by every one every month & devour them over 24 hrs. Thank u so much. You are SO informative & make everything so interesting to listen to. Thank u from a 49 yrs old russian lady. Lol.
I’m 100% agree with each word! Thank you for review 🙏🏼
I'd rock ANY Iris van Herpen look. Totally. I LOVE everything she does!
Again, one of the few fashion critics/youtubers that bases his critics on knowledge and taste. Not that there\'s anything wrong with those that base it on their taste alone. Knowledge based critics are just legit and more fun! Well done L .M ! Another hit!
I fell in love with the IVH collection the movement, the laser cut and the colours damn
YEEEES. Ive been waiting for this ❤️
Donatella's Versace Atelier fall 2012 tarot inspired collection was way BETTER than Maria Disgrazia' Dior collection 🤷
Ok ....WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ? ( that’s more about me not knowing than anything else...) I LOVED your honesty and the way you make a very knowledgeable technical assessment of the pieces and then also incorporate that “ gut feeling “ we all have about a piece when we see it . We LOVEEEEE IT or we don’t or it’s just bla .. and no matter how much or how little work went into it , it just “works “ or .. NOT . Like at the Advil moment I just stopped the video, subscribed , liked and then wrote this and now will continue . Hahahaha so glad I found this . Look forward to future opinions 💅🏼👏🏼🙋🏻♀️🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤( I’m sorry I don’t do red hearts 🤣😑, but they ARE hearts :🙌🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼)
WE NEED MORE!!!!!!!
Watched all the shows and waited For Luke to spill the tea. YAAASSSSS
The Schiaperelli designs and photos!! are you kidding me?!?? I'm in love with every single one especially the dress with what you referred to as amoeba-like cut-out and the brown six-pack body suit with the brown bag and the toe prosthetic shoes *faints*
The long nails is not entirely or only about Black culture. It's been documented earlier on in Asian History and recent culture.
Would love to see a video on the fashion from Bling Empire!!
you did not just call SEVDALIZA a "plus size model" !!! I was screaming when I saw her walk, I wasn't expecting it at all. She's been working with Marine Serre too lately. But yeah definitely check out her music, she is truly mesmerizing & I'm so happy she's getting more and more exposure
Your opinions are always on point
I'm kinda sad bc of Dior's idea and base this season because it could have been really interesting but as usual.. I'm bored. I have to admit that some looks are interesting and all of them were beautiful but there was a lost chance
Yeah, I mean why Maria keeps sticking with gardening, horoscope, and now this. It's like new patterns for every new collection. She's playing safe and easy access to the customers ( maybe that explained how well Dior is doing) but it lacks. Especially this is Haute Couture and it looks like regular season's stuffs.
you can do SO much with tarot as well and while some of the designs worked really well, there were others where you could tell that they could have done so much more. The Fool dress for example, the bodice with the dog on it was a fantastic nod to the card but then they went in the "jester" direction and it's like no you are missing the Point of that card. it's meant to be Zero, a new beginning and infinite possibilities, it's a "not looking before you leap and being swept up in it all" kind of card. they could have gone with something more delicate, young, and fanciful and then really ramped it up as we went and built off that. instead it reall stood out from the rest of the collection as far as the style went but not in a particularly good way imo. the tarot is a story read in order, things are meant to have a natural progression from one to the next, hence why the cards are numbered, they could have leaned into that so much but ugghhhh there's so many missed opporunities!
I always love these