Dodge Ram 5.9L Cummins Vp44 Crank No Start. You Won't Believe the Cause!!!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Here we talk about what the cause of the crank and no start we had with this 98 Ram with a 5.9L Cummins.
Update video for this pickup: • Update: Dodge Ram 24v ...
My other two similar videos:
• Check this first!!! 5....
• 24 Valve Cummins VP44 ...
Disclaimer: This video is intended for educational purposes only. Always follow proper manufacturer instructions and safety procedures.
There's several circuits "hot" at key on.
2 of the circuits are grid solenoids and lift pump key on.
For grids, it relies on a temp sensor to complete the circuit, which allows the WTS to work properly.
If the sensor is bad, or the circuit in the ECM is faulty, you'll either get a delayed WTS, or the processor will never come online.
Many times, in a sudden ECM failure, it's either a power section diode, or a failed processor.
Also, typically when a VP44 ECM dies, you'll lose the fuel lift pump.
Finally, a VP44 truck will run a ~ 1-2 minutes prime cycle, if you key on and just "bump" the starter.
If that doesn't happen, sometimes bypassing the pump gets it running, but it means that eventually the power section in the ECM will fail and is on borrowed time.
I have a breakout harness I use to check if the injection pump module is the culprit, in a no start scenario.
It requires bypassing the lift pump, to make it run.
By doing the bypass, you can idle the engine.
If it fails to start, or attempt to, the pump module, or the sensor inside the pump is the culprit.
SORRY! LONG REPLY!
Great info! Thanks for sharing
So the best thing to do to avoid any and all
Of this is a p7100 swap right? With a p pump swap you could pretty
Much remove the ECM from the side of the motor and toss it ya? Naa I’m sure there’s a reason or two to leave it bolted on and functioning for the grid heater, and fuel lift lift pump. I’ve heard that with the fass pumps, having them running while cranking can cause a long crank issue. Something to do with the pressure being to high for the puntle inside the vp44 or something to open? That the fix is to basically make it so that the fass doesn’t run during crank key position and only runs in the run position. A fass can be wired all sorts of different ways but I think the directions for a second gen has you using the stock oe plug for the junky Carter lift pump, bumping the engine over will have it run a prime cycle for 30
Secs or what ever. And had it run while cranking. Which I’ve heard can cause issues with a long crank hot or cold. The vp44’s are finicky. They can be great once all the kinks are worked out, having a FASS guarantees longevity and reliability. I didn’t know about having to much pressure being bad, that’s good to know, no more than 15-20 psi, and no less than 7 at idle, I know anything less than 5 psi and damage occurs and it starts cooking itself. I think lost of the fass kits run about 16 psi consistently, and optional fuel pressure regulators can be installed and the fuel press can be adjusted if needed.
I want to p pump swap on my ‘02 24v Hao 6
Speed. I’ve only got 100k miles on it, and it’s a mint perfect truck. It’s a perfect truck.
I’ve started planning a p pump swap, I still need to either find a junk donor parts motor with a good p7100 core. I’d really
Like to use a 215hp p7100 and not have to settle for a smaller 180. I’m not going for huge horsepower or anything, I want reliability and longevity, and bulletproofness. So either a donor motor I can take the timing case and gear, and brackets and everything off of Or use the crazy carls kit which is about $3,000. If I go that route then I want all the cool billet parts, billet tappet cover, billet front timing cae, billet front case cover with quick change access, billet pump support bracket, billet water pump, billet valve cover, billet thermostat housing, fluidampr balancer, cam gear dowell and retainer, plate. I’ve seen guys just make a small tig weld on the cam gear to be cheap lol. I’d give my left nut for one of those king speed billet oil pans. My hod those things are a work of cnc machinery art. *drool*
Or….i could just use all the greasy dingy parts and clean them in the shops washer machine and paint them nicely and use the factory OE parts for the swap from a donor motor. That would the cheapest. Find a donor 12v and take the timing gear case, injection pump gear, p7100 pump, support bracket, oil feed line, and the oil feed line snubber valve thingie, and the grid heater, the reason for that is I wanna be able to run my banks monster ram and on a 24v p pump setup with the custom lines you can keep the backs monster ram, you just gotta raise it up with a grid heater delete space or another heater with the center knocked out and get longer studs or bolts.
I know p7100s are getting harder and harder to find in good useable core buildable condition, especially the 215 pumps, all the big race diesel guys have gobbled them up over the years. And Bosch ain’t making new ones, they haven’t for years. Although a Chinese company has knocked off the Bosch p7100 pump design and castings. Which heck ya! I’ll run one lol. If I can’t find a p7100 I’d consider swaping in a rotary VE pump. They are just as reliable, and can support up to 600 hp easily worth the right mods and fueling! Everyone raves over the p pumps higher pressures and garden hose fueling capacity. The VE rotary pumps can be easily made to support 400-500hp and that’s range in aiming for, I’m not going to 1000+ honor the highest hp swaped 24v secound gen. I want reliability, efficiency, good mpg and the ability to turn some screws and do what ever I want with out being limited or stuck by mechanical
Limitations, emissions, or computers or modules, or programming constraints! I want all mechanical! I even want the manual pull cable fuel shut off! lol no wires or electronics! Nuke proof!
The ECM must have a crack letting moisture into the circuit board? Not very often the ECMs go on these old girls
Either that or it makes the proper connection just with the heat.
I’m in the same boat with my 2001 2500. Truck will crank all day but not start. I saw your other video about the wait to start not coming on, and mine is not coming on at all. I checked the fuse and it was good. I even swapped it just to be sure. It’s not throwing any codes. I’m lost with it right now.
Also to add, it was running just fine, and then the other day it just wouldn’t start. I have no symptoms of a bad VP44.
It does sound like you have some sort of ECM issue. Either the ECM itself or wiring to it. Check for power at that fuse you checked. If it doesn't power up then the ECM is not sending out the signal to turn on the light. That could be an ECM issue or the ECM doesn't have its proper inputs.
Thanks great information.
I also watched blue chip where he says to simply cut a certain wire if crank and no start and everything else checks out.
It’s hard to believe all these blunderfucks weren’t actual built in obsolence engineering.
OK thanks. A bit too far from Florida 😅. I was having a few intermittent problems starting the truck for a while. It's a 98 1/2, 24 Valve.
Then for the first time it finally shut off while driving. Now it's dead. So I'll check the codes. It does have a new Fass lift pump. I'm thinking it may be the vp44 pump. It has about 220 k miles.
If so, I'm sure I can change it myself. Who sells the best vp44 pump? I would rather pay more for a good quality pump than having to do over again. Thoroughbred Diesel any better than others?
send the ECM and have it gone thru they can fix them original ones for every truck is best unless there just junk but they will tell you not repairable
great video, i know than my ecm is bad, but will try to head it up to see if i can get it to run, thanks a lot.
👍..have got one round here,that runs with power and ground to the psg on the pump..has got power and ground at pump plug from ecm..ecm seems to have all inputs and outputs..have ohmed wires and what not...read on the blue chip diesel site numerous times...ive swapped ecm with a spare...it won't run on its with an ecm plugged in... might just burn it to the ground.. thanks for your videos 👍👊
been an electrical guy is the key, trust me partner great job, keep it up
my 95 12v 5.9 did same thing i tapped the terminals with a hammer and she fired up.
I removed my edge tuner. Which I have had on and off the truck multiple times with no issues. But this time I took it off and the truck won’t start. Possibly fried the ECM??? Just disconnected batteries overnight and replaced the crank sensor still no start. Getting the “no bus” message on dash
Gonna go to the shop and get the scanner to see what’s up
cuestion, how was the 5V ecm output w cold ecm?
I HAD INJECTORS GO BAD AND THATS A CRANK NO START ON THE 5.9
Sounds almost like a cold solder joint on a PC board.
Where is your shop?
New Plymouth Idaho
I’m in the exact same boat on a 98 model. Wait to start is flashing just like in your video. Cranks but no start. I do not have power on vp44 connector but do have ground. I bypass the ecm with 12v to vp44 still does not start. Will run on starting fluid tho then die back off. Any suggestions? The upper part of ecm is split open. So I’m pretty sure it’s bad. But do u think I have a bad vp44 also? I’m getting fuel up to the injectors.
Just do one thing at a time. Your ECM obviously needs to be replaced. Get it replaced and go from there. Everything could work just fine or you may have to TS more. But if you try TS with something that is bad you might end up chasing your tail.
Liked and subscribed, how about a no start warm? What would cause that?
In my experience a no start warm issue is either caused by the ECM or more ,likely the VP44 pump. I have run cold water into the pump with a garden hose a number of times. Sometimes just by cooling the pump down one can get the engine to start.
Nice find. Thanks
My 1998 5.9 24 valve has the same issue with cranking over but no start, but my Wait To Start light comes on properly and goes off around 6-7 seconds later. After that I just crank and crank and nothing happens. I've had it started before, by changing the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), and messing around with the fuses in the fuse box. But when it started it wouldn't rev passed 1,400 RPM. could you please reply and let me know if you may know what the issue is. I've always wanted one and finally have one but it's causing me these issues. Also, it will start with sprayed with Ether, but dies immediately after it starts. pls let me know if you know what could be the issue.
Those symptoms (especially the no Rev past 1400) sounds like a defective VP44 injection pump. Check to see if there are any codes in the PCM, make sure your lift pump is coming on, and that you have at least 7-10 PSI of fuel pressure after the fuel filter.
@@prodieselrepair3218 Thank you for replying fast, and my lift pump comes on, it's a fast pump fuel system. I have yet to put a code reader on it, but me and my dad are supposed to do that tomorrow and see what it says. What could cause the VP44 to go bad? I have a bigger pump for it too, and it does the same thing with the bigger pump. So maybe both are bad, but i'll definitely look for a VP44 code tmr.
The most common failure of the VP44 is the electronics on the top of it. Usually low fuel pressure will kill a VP44 right quick, because the lack of fuel pressure and fuel flow also means a lack of proper cooling of the pump by the fuel. But normal engine heating and cooling cycles will eventually kill the pump over time as well. It wasn't a great design and it was only used for four years. You also don't want too much pressure either as weird as that may sound. No more than 15 to 20 PSI and no less than 7 psi at idle. The lift pump should be able to run 12 to 14 psi while loaded. Engine loaded that is
I have a 2002 VP44 that truck will not start and has ck engine light and scan tool won't connect to ODB port and the port has power and ground. Truck will start with 12 v direct to VP44 pump with ECM bypassed. The power and ground pins on the VP 44 connector do have 12 v when cranking when hooked up to truck but it won't start
What is the "Wait to start" doing? It's sounds pretty similar to the pickup in this video. It had a bad engine ECM. I could not connect to the PCM because of the bad ECM.
@@prodieselrepair3218 I need to check the light. I will try a find a ECM to borrow to see if it will run. Can the PCM on the firewall cause engine not to start?
@@Lucky4wd4840 I have not had an issue with these engines not starting because the PCM was bad. I guess there's a slight possibility, but I don't think so.
I'm on the same boat with this symptoms and mine gauges doesn't work so but I have fuel over to the injectors and lift pump runs but cranks and no start
Did you find if your ECM was bad. ?
I have same problem same symptoms
I've just bought a '99 24v Cummins that has a delayed WTS light intermintenly. Also an acceleration problem intermintenly when cold that won't go higher than 1400 rpm. But when warms up it acts fine. Does that sound like an ECM problem, and should I send it to get repaired? The VP44 and lift pump been replaced and looks new. Lift pump makes 12psi at idle.
Crankshaft position sensor. Your rpm gauge goes to zero then goes back on. It's probably a loose connector at the computer
Im in the same boat