One more question I just paid for a rebuild on my 5.7! First day I got it back it’s was doing hemi tick lol I took it back he said a lifter got stuck! Questioning being should mechanic have took camshaft out again to check to see if It’s got worn down?
@jobarhenderson9020 all depends on what was replaced. If he already replaced the cam and lifters together, then a stuck lifter would probably mean the hydraulic portion of the lifter failed, which wouldn't affect the camshaft. However if just the lifters were replaced then I'd definitely be looking at the cam lobes.
Man you are really nailing all these hemi lifter videos. As a 25yr diesel mechanic i really cant find fault in a single thing you've said. You got my seal of approval for accurate unbiased information!
Lots of good info here. As a Chrysler tech myself, I've repaired all these issues countless times. I tend to agree with pretty much everything you have said here. One thing I would add, the newer 2019 trucks no longer have exhaust bolts failing, but now I have seen countless manifolds actually crack in-between the middle cylinders. A good substitute for the lifters would be to go with a Johnson lifter. They are very high quality lifters and imo a better lifter then the oem. Lots of good and very accurate info in this video!
i own a 2019 ram with the hemi, 5th gen not the classic, mine popped 8 different manifol studs so yes its still happening. swapped to bbk headers to stop the issue
I can confirm. Both my manifolds are cracked right down the middle. Bolts are tight.....and hopefully don't snap as I remove them this weekend. Replacement headers are in the mail right now. 71,000 miles.
Out of the millions of hemis out there on the road probably only 1% are lifter failures up to 5% report ticking noises and most of the time it is the exhaust manifold the gen 4s at least it's an easy fix I remachined the warped manifold flat and square and put new studs on, the new ones the manifolds are just straight up breaking which means you'll be replacing it multiple times as when you put a new one on it will also warp and break later on.
Thanks for addressing MDS. I’ve heard dudes say that they defeat MDS by turning on the gear limiter and selecting to use all 8 gears. This prevents the truck from going into Eco mode. I’ve tried it and it works.
This wins the interwebs. I have 'A' tick and a local repair shop told me I needed the lifter/camshaft replacement. They also said that none of the exhaust manifold bolts were broken. Later, I had a coworker look at it who has worked on these engines for years and he found the passenger side rear exhaust manifold bolt was indeed broken - using the exact technique you present here. I was also glad to hear, in this video, that the lifter/camshaft problem only presents itself after the engine is at operating temps. My 'tick' happens on cold start-up and remains for some time after. After watching this I'm pretty confident it's the broken bolt. Thanks for posting this very detailed presentation on exactly how to diagnose this issue.
I have owned a 5.7 Hemi in a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 and bought it new. I noticed the tick when shopping for this truck. Now I have 194,000 miles without any engine issues. Best vehicle I have ever owned and I am 74 years of age.
I love your videos. I pulled my 07 5.7 300c cam and put it back together because of you. Please ensure our 300 owners, we could have the same problems. I have noticed in the hemi world everyone mentions changer and challengers regarding the hemi but never the 300. Please continue the amazing content.
Excellent and comprehensive video. My 2011 1500 5.7 had the lifter/camshaft failure at 101K miles. It was scary, because all of a sudden, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and was dinging at the same time. The engine during acceleration felt like it was about to jump out of the truck. Chrysler paid for the failure fix because it was so close to the 100K drive-train warranty...$4,000. All I paid for was shop supplies at the dealer. I'm now at 245K miles and am replacing the engine, as it was starting the same lifter/camshaft failure. I change the oil every 5K miles religiously, using a top-tier synthetic. I have also had issues with the exhaust "tick" multiple times...even with upgraded hardware. That's a pain! With the recent engine swap, I have gone to stainless steel shorty headers, hoping I get some relief from the exhaust issue. It's good so far, except I had to re-tighten the bolts after 500 miles. All-in-all, I love my truck, and it gives me great service. Just take care of your vehicle, and it will take care of you!
100k drivetrain warranty in 2011? And now they are 60k or 5 years. Though I'm gonna guess you went with the extended warranty Surprised that they let it slide... Pretty sure the service manager fudged the odometer reading. Doubt the manufacture would do any such thing.
The one thing that is unfortunately stopping me from buying a Hemi V8. Thank you for your coverage on this topic. Your coverage on this cam and lifter failure problem is the BEST in the world.
Appreciate the great informative video. The lifters on my 2003 Dodge 2500 5.7 Hemi went out at 190,000 miles, change my oil every three thousand miles, had the dealer replace the whole top end of the engine. Running like a champ and currently at 287,000 miles. Thank you!!!
Both my gen 3 hemis run just fine, have always kept my oil/filter changed every 5K miles even with high quality synthetic oil available. My '12 Challenger now has 126K miles on it and the engine continues to run like a top, lifter noise is minimal if at all, and, yes, the injectors on both my hemi cars are noisy, almost sounds like real quiet solid lifters! The '14 300C has 72K on it and runs great as well, even with the dreaded MDS lifters still installed(they are electronically shut off, no change in mileage). I think some piston slap when cold is the only thing I do notice, especially in my '12 high mileage engine, and that is a normal noise with the shorter piston skirt length in modern engines. I also change my differential oil each oil change, only 1.5 qt or so in each unit and drain & fill plugs make that super easy. Happy with my cars, thanks for the informative video!
I have 2, one in an 07 AWD 300C and one in a '12 JGC. The 300's 5.7 has been incredibly reliable. Currently has a LMI carbon fiber intake, catch can (a must on all Hemi's, imo) suitcase/resonator delete, and a Hemifever 93 tune. It's fun, certainly no Vette, but a great year-round DD. And even with 198k miles has 0 abnormal noises and runs great having only needed an oil pressure sensor and two O2 sensors. The '12 has been a little more troublesome as far as minor maintenance (waterpump failure at 135k, alternator at 140k, upper rad hose met the water pump pulley when the retention clip fatigue cracked, a few little odds and ends) But, I do unfortunately believe we will be having to pull the cam and lifters on it within the next year. Starting to get what sounds like intermittent lifter tapping at hot idle. It has a K&N intake (the aluminum one with the heat sheild isolating the filter) and straight-pipe catback. The 300 has seen more than it's fair share of 'trips to Mexico' and the GC is pretty much babied by my wife, so I suppose it's kind of a crapshoot as to which ones will fail.
I worked at Mopar for a while and I still love these engines. I know exactly what can go wrong with them but I'd have one anyway. Intake ports so big you can fall into them. I can't wait to find a truck that someone wants to scrap because it needs a cam/lifters. I think it's the lack of a flex pipe in the exhaust of the trucks that makes it worse. I could be wrong, but I think it's putting more stress on the manifold hardware than it does in the cars and SUVs.
Every V8 Ive ever owned has had some kind of tick eventually. Even when new, my Toyota 4.7 made more noise at idle than most american V8s. Im a big fan of the 03-08 5.7 Hemi, all of the ticks I had with them were exhaust manifold related. These engines are extremely durable as long as you maintain the cooling system and dont overheat them.
My daily driver is an 03 1500 5.7 with 230k. It has been absolutely run hard and put up wet, but never been ran hot, and every little maintenance replacement was on time. It’s a tank. Only issue is valve guides letting oil Into the combustion chamber 😂
My 5.2 magnum is stupid quiet, like all you hear is intake suction and exhaust and that's it. Most quietest and beautiful running motor I've had. I just tore it down at 200k just because I did a frame off resto and might as well do the motor while its out, and the internals were amazing.
@@tomc8157 completely agree that the Magnum motors are quite possibly the quietest, smoothest and most reliable V8 engines ever made. I've had the same 5.2 Magnum 1500 since brand new in 2000 and the engine refuses to do anything but operate like a sewing machine.
Dude so much to say on this video, first of all I believe you have done a great job on this topic. To qualify myself to you and others I am an engineer and mechanical guy with 30 + years experience in the industry and have been the chief engineer for SRC on the Delphi Roller Hydraulic Lifter program. 1) I would recommend a aux engine cooler change-out with every catastrophic lifter cam failure regardless of the metal found in the strainer of the MDS solenoid, (I bet you do too.). 2) And also also one mis I believe, is check the pressure exerted on the exhaust manifold from the exhaust downpipe, the factory pre-bends the pipes ahead the truck being built and would work in theory except the truck are all different lengths (slightly) when final assy. is achieved. A custom made exhaust after assembly would eliminate the stress imposed by the downpipe. And I have much more if interested
The dealership should be doing a recall to fix it all instead of making it out to be everybody else's problem when they manufactured a engine that is flawed
Thanks Reignited, for this article. My ride: 2018 SRT 6.4L Charger. 40K miles. Backed it out this AM and went back into the house to get something I'd forgotten. Engine was idling, and I heard a kind of soft ticking (almost like a squish-squish-squish) that seemed to come and go. Uh oh. Listened to all the belt idlers and rotating parts on the engine front end with my PVC listening tube. All were whirring typical of bearings, but the earlier heard noise was elusive. So I checked out this video. Well presented. I believe this sound is from the injectors. Removed the plastic covers on the heads. Yes, they are a bit noisy. I am guessing what I heard were the injectors. Keeping my ears open on this. Then I looked for the sheet metal covers on cast iron exhaust manifolds. Guess what? No cast iron exhaust manifolds. No heat shields. The SRT 6.4L has welded stainless steel short headers leading directly into the huge cats. Someone else may have noted this below. I have also noticed over time how the oil pressure with hot oil drops to about 30 psig (never ever lower) when the RPMs get below about 900. Above that the pressure climbs very rapidly to 55 to 62 psig. Don't quite know how a better pump would improve this. Keep in mind that this engine must pull a load at RPMs as low as about 1200 when in 8th gear. You do not want low oil pressure in high engine load situations, and the stock pump seems to be doing the job. I will stay with a 6000 mile oil change interval. I am running 0W-40 full synthetic Amsoil Signature oil. Actual testing has shown this lube to be superior vs. wear under high loads. With more miles we shall see how this oil may possibly protect the lifters. In every respect a fabulous great car.
Hey Reignited. Thanks for doing these videos as they are very well explained and accurate. I spent way to many hours trying to find the normal and anormal hemi engine noise. I purchased a 2017 power wagon with 35k miles on couple month ago and always found engine noisy and since I learn about that ticking problem, it started to hit on me as it does sound like that. Here is the thing, since you are a Dodge mechanic and because you can clearly identify the problem of a failed lifter VS normal valve train noise only by listening to it, I think making a video with microphone from the noise into the front wheel pits that we can clearly hear the noise difference would be very popular. And that will calm so many people like me that do not cross other 6.4 that often to check the noise. I could not find anything decent on UA-cam regarding that noise. Lets hope you can consider doing this.
Yo, I have a Ram 17' 1500 , and this video has enlightened me on my tick. I had the usual tick at start up but it would go away AFTER it warmed up. But now , after being at body shop , which took about a month , btw , the tick just stays. I was devastated. But according to this video, it's NOT the catastrophic tick that us HEMI owners all dread. Thanks , man. I can breathe again.😊
Mannnnnnn at 150ishk miles on my 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, I decided to check the exhaust manifold heat covers thanks to your video. I noticed ticking probably 10 to 20 thousand miles ago and I finally found your video. Usually I don't like to wait this long to fix an issue but, bc I heard the name "Hemi tick" I was under the assumption that it was just common to these engines. Boy I couldn't be more glad I decided to dig in and figure out if there was a solution before it became more serious. Thank youuu. I checked both sides and the heat shield was broken on the right side of the eng and left side, was also broken either at the studs or heat shield. Looks like I got some mantenance to perform. Not only that but, with checking the right side under the heat cover I found a wet spot which lookes like oil from a comprimised valve cover. Time to save some money and do it myself. Thank you again.
i own a 2005 doge ram 1500 4x4 thunderroad edition that i bought brand new to this day and with 169788 miles high way driven every day to work countless fire calls ems calls trips down the interstate to as far and back to florida. 2 months after i bought it i switch to full synthetic oil and when Vpower gas came out and felt the immediate resoponce to it well ive been using both since never had the hemi tic and i just changed the original fuel pump and i have 135000 on the 2nd set of plugs and original coil packs. 1 down fall ive put 4 water pumps on mine!!!!!! and i love your channel youve given me future ideas so please keep them comming AKA DJ
22 minute mark you really make it clear how pulling the solenoids affects the oil and why you would have to replace the lifters as a result. another thing that after hearing it seems obvious but sometimes you can't quite connect the dots. Thanks a ton. I've been watching your videos all day and now I'm definitely subscribed 💯
I just had this done to my 2012 Jeep Overland. My local mechanic found that the cam was bad as well as the lifters. He said that the only way to fix it was to pull the engine. He replaced the cam, the lifters and the oil pump with a Melling high volume unit. $5K for the entire job and it took 4 days! But now, the Jeep runs strong! It cost me a bunch, but the Jeep is very solid!
You are spot on! I just had the exhaust manifolds changed on my 2014 Ram, went in thinking it was the lifters, was very happy it was just the manifolds!
I am a mechanic, I love watching UA-cam videos to see how true they are. I had my son come watch your video to show him everything I say about Hemi’s because some reason he always test me on my knowledge. I enjoyed showing him your hemi tick video because he listens to his LS buddies and coyote buddies to much. I am a huge Mopar fan, I have 7 Hemi’s from 426 to 6.1. My newer Hemi’s are awesome and very reliable. My 13’ Ram express is pretty nasty and my daily driver. I have never had a problem but I maintain my vehicles on a regular basis. A lot people don’t and can’t afford the repairs so just sell me their vehicle cheap or give them to me. I fix and keep or sell them. I love them Mopar Hemi ways!!
Great advise! First time viewer and subscriber now! I have an 09 Ram 1500 now with 329k. I did the cam/lifter work at 209k. Might be time to do a full rebuild now. Only did cam/lifter/valve first time.
Great Info! Finally after 259K Miles I got the Hemi Catastrophic Tick! 2003 Ram 1500 - Remanned & updated Hemi and Tranny with 7 Year No Fault warranty coming! Headers as you recommend too! You are the Best Source for Hemi info on UA-cam!
Lol, no you didn't hemi tick in 03-09 wasn't lifter/cam related. Piston slap you could hear in the front wheel wells. You might drop a valve, lol but your lifter and cam is safe. Not even remotely the same 5.7 eagle vs preeagle
As a fellow MOPAR tech: the DT trucks don't break bolts on the manifolds because they added reinforcement brackets to the front of the manifolds. Now they just Crack the manifolds themselves. I've done two pairs now. One on my 2019 DT Ram...
Hi I have for a long time tried to find the tick in my ram1500 5.7. replaced parts to no avail. listen thru a stethascope and heard a quiet running engine but still wasnt sure. Then on your video you said pull on the heat shield and it came off exactly like your video did. Outstanding. Now I can repair it knowing for sure thats the problem and not a rocker or lifter etc. Thanks soo much.
Dude! I’m so glad I found this video. Just bought a 2013 Durango with the 5.7, and it has an ominous ticking sound on cold startup which I didn't hear when I first test drove it. I’m not a full on mechanic, but I do most of my own work, and this video was fantastically helpful. At least now I feel like there is still some hope for this high mileage Hemi. Thank you for such a great video. I’m subscribed.
@@mattjingles5758 ive had both, and was able to compare shorties to long tubes, cars were the exact same, rolled off the line at the same time, shorties had it until 65, than long tubes started to catch up.unless you're going to be at the strip or doing rolls, shorties are fine if you're only touching exhaust. However if you're going to do an aggressive cam or F.I, long tubes are the better choice.
That, and when i went from shorties to long tubes, the exhaust note actually got quieter, and the 0-60 didnt change, this was before i started really having a midlife crisis though 🤣
I have a 2012 ram 2500 work truck in our garage. It started out with random misfires and then developed a continuous miss and it ended up being number seven pushrod jumped out of the rocker arm. Your videos are very detailed and helped us decide on which avenue to take to repair this situation. Thank you so much for this great and detailed content 👍
Hello from a fellow chrysler tech! I just got out of the dealer after 7 years. Very good information in this video. Really accurate information, and good fixes. I've been doing hellcat oil pump installs on the 5.7s and had really good luck with them. Idle pressure is a lot better with them. Second, I've spoke with chrysler trainers and engineers before. They told me the oil comes into the lifters from the rocker assembly and down the pushrods. The oil gallery in the block is specifically for the MDS activation, from what they told me. You mentioned hellcat lifters, which was funny because they are 100% identical like you said. The MDS system is pretty reliable and I really hardly see issues with it. Excellent video! Glad to see some real, verified, and accurate information on the internet for once.
I live in canada where winter is 8 months long and we get many days at -40f as a high temperature. Thanks for your video as a tick has occurred on my 2011 hemi that I am worried about. You have given me the knowledge to identify the cause and hopefully avoid an engine teardown at this time. I will be ordering the helmet oil pump very soon.😊
Excellent content. Thanks! Have an ageing 2015 1500 Ram and want to keep it running for as long as possible - will definitely be watching more of your channel.
@TOXIC-jq3ry same. I have an 11 2500 with the 5.7. 280k miles. Everything has been good and just in the past 4 days it's developed a loud tick. But mine is there from startup to shut down. Don't matter how much you run it. So I'm guessing it's the hydraulic lifter failure and not the 'bad ' one? 😅
This one of most comprehensive and fact-based engine videos I've ever watched. I admit I might not (holey?) completely understand the (hole?) entire prep-h joke at 23:57, however I did watch those few seconds about 8 times.
New sub here and I must say that this by far is one of the best videos on understanding all the ticks from a hemi. My 14' just started this last week and its been driving me crazy trying to find what it is. Manifold bolts already changed.
@@tyladandrea6739 Nope took it to the dealership and first thing they say is manifold bolts... Can't be I changed both sides. Told me it's normal for most hemi trucks my yr to have a slight ticking🤦🏽♂️.
@@kuntryboi867 I swear every single mechanic hears the tick and automatic goes with the manifold bolts. I just had mine changed but I’m bringing it back into the shop next week. Ill let you know if they come up with anything different!
About to go check out a 2011 with 333k km's on it. Dings all over it (old guy was driving it), check engine light is on and the fuel gauge doesn't work. Bringing a scan tool with me. Been crash coursing info on these things so much appreciated for the in depth. Cheers! 🇨🇦
These are the best and most comprehensive videos I have seen on the Hemi. I own one myself and have heard all these misconceptions before and didn't know which one to believe. Thanks for the content!
Just read where GMC vehicles including 5.3 have a class-action lawsuit over lifters MDS. for 2020 to 22. going back to 2014. Had a 2014 Silverado do this and then complete engine replacement at 102k. $7,000. Sort of sad this will be the last year of the Hemi engine in 1500 trucks as a 6 turbo is replacing it.
@@masalicio JUST THE SAME FOR HEMI TICK AND MDS HEMI ON DODGE V6, 5.7, AND 392 ENGINES ON ALL DODGE EQUIPPED WITH ABOVE ENGINES I.E. POPULAR CHALLENGER AND CHARGER JUST TO NAME A FEW. 🤑 MONEY PIT FROM START TO END AND START OVER AGAIN BECAUSE STEALERSHIPS USE SAME PART🤮🤑. ONLY WAY TO PREVENT THESE PROBLEMS IS DON'T BUY A DODGE/CHRYSLER VEHICLE. "NO CAR NO MOPAR"🤢🤮🤑 NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS TO FIX AND BAND AID FIXES.
Very good video. I have a 06 Charger 5.7 with 231k. No issues there. I change my oil every 5k and also live on a mountain so it sees a lot of rpm range. I also have a 16 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 with the 5.7 with 238k on it. Also runs great. Has the exhaust leak I’ll be getting to that soon. Your videos are the best I’ve seen on the 5.7 Hemi’s. And for that thank you Sir😊
That was a great video! It covers things so clearly that anyone who watches should understand what is happening. Great presentation. Did you get a new editor? If not, your editing skills are getting really good. I like the new intro.
Great video very informative, ive rebuilt these motors several times and what ive found is that installing a high flow oil pump is a great way to keep proper cooling but plain and simple the most important thing out of everything is on time oil changes
It's so funny I haven't even watched the whole video before commenting and you talked about a high volume oil pump us dodge guys know our way around a hemi, what I haven't been able to figure out is I bought a 04 5.7 and the left head had a part number 1616 AJ never seen this before the passenger head is a 1616 BA which is your normal hemi head up to 09 I tried doing research but couldn't find anything
It's best to religiously change the oil every 3,000 miles, change the coolant once every 3 years, don't let it idle too long, and mostly high way drive it. That's how my Grandma's 2009 Chrysler 300C is still going over 240,000 miles on it and no serious problems at all. She drives it normally and not over revving it past 3,000 rpms.
I now have a tik from having to work on my hemi all the time!! I change my oil @3000m even with synthetics. Just don't want to chance it. Oil change is much less $ than a repair from not changing it enough!! 🙌
Very good video, definitely explains the various ticks associated with the Hemi. However I have to make one major correction. The "Hemi Tick" was a phrase coined in the early to mid 2000s that described the loud ticking most of the hemis made at idle, long before the lifter/cam fails associated with the 09 + hemis. The tick I believe was caused by valve stem to guid clearance and Dodge (at the time) even had a bulliten and repair for it. I had my 03 and 05 brought in and received a whole top end valve replacment. Unfortunately it never really worked and the ticking returned from time to time. The 03 was sold but the 05 went on to live 765000km of almost trouble free running. It was sold and still runs today. That is the actually meaning if the hemi tick and any other use of the phrase is inaccurate, unless it has been hijacked lol.
That tick I believe is your lifter(s) not getting enough lubrication at idle. A high number of police cruisers, trucks, and SUVS with that motor experience lifter failure. And if you think about it those service vehicles sit for long hours everyday idling. Since people don't idle personal vehicles as much the number of failures for private owners is much lower. Its a fundamental design flaw with the lifter oiling system. By grooving slightly the side of the lifter bore you can achieve positive flow at idle to the lifter and eliminate this tick and eventual failure entirely. ua-cam.com/video/dI93-Zdx_nY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=UncleTony%27sGarage
The early hemi tick=piston slap-pre eagle Eagle hemi ticks=shitty lifters, exhaust manifold bolts breaking. Too many UA-cam mechanics talking out their asses.
Man, you REALLY put me on a roller coaster with this one. Lol I havent been able to pinpoint exactly where my tick was coming from. When you talked about the manifold tick getting quieter as it warms, my heart sank. Mine doesnt go away. Its consistent. But when you said you dont hear the lifter tick on cold start, i relaxed a lot. Mine is consistent cold or hot. Just pulled the heat shield off my passenger manifold. I dont have any broken bolts (yet). But my manifold is cracked right down the middle. Replacement manifolds are in the mail. Thanks for this video
@@ReignitedAuto Yup! Unfortunately kinda lot has happened since that comment. I replaced the manifold, but it had no effect on the tick. I pulled the spark plugs. They were pretty worn, so I swapped them along with the coil packs. Still no change to the tick. It's constant tick that speeds up with RPMS. Doesn't get louder, just faster. I put a stethoscope to the oil pan, not coming from there. So I don't think it's rod knock. It's coming from the lower part of the head..... so all I can think is lifters. Unless you have another idea?
Fantastic video Sky, really like how you clearly explained each tick. I still maintain that the VVT system changed the oil flow thru the system which is why the only the 2009 and up engines experience this issue. I also agree with you that the oil pump will like resolve the issue, as it will increase idle oil pressure and make up for the extra restriction in the system caused by the VVT system.
Check uncle Tony's garage , very good explanation of the oiling flaws in these generation hemi , not so much vvt as it is a bad design in the block not lubricating the camshaft and lifters
@@NNYstreetcarmafia hello T, I am familiar with that video, and while I recognize it has some merit, I agree with Sky on this and don’t believe that to be the primary cause of this problem, perhaps at best a contributing factor. Please keep in mind the Pre-Eagle engines did not have the lifter failure that the Eagle engines do. They are very similar in design with the major change being the VVT system added to the Eagle engine. This is what caused a major change to the oil system on the Eagle engine versus the Pre-Eagle engine. There are many other changes incorporated into the Eagle engine as well, however this is the one that affected the engine oil system the most. Both the Pre-Eagle and Eagle used the same lifters, and MDS system so that would eliminate them as the primary failure point. Just my 2 cents on the subject, but I do strongly believe Sky has a great theory on how to overcome this failing.
@@MongrelsGarage I have watched both videos from utg myself and both of sky's videos concerning this issue and I agree with you that the oil pressure makes up the difference for the horizontal(bad design) lifters. Regardless what Angle they're operating, just the proper pressure and type of oil will make the difference. In Sky's other or second video about this problem, at the end he suggested or came to a theory that has merit and suggested replacing mds lifters with oem NON-MDS lifters and keeping the mds solenoids to retain the oil pressure but this time you're not constricting the oil passage on any one cylinder at any cycle. Because the mds lifters have the different sized springs inside the shaft of the lifter and thick rod with spring activated pins that cause the life to be deactivated when the pressure is gone and prevents oil passing through to live the lifters and rollers. With oem lifters without the springs and pins, they act like conventional lifters on All 8 cylinders. He suggested keeping the mds cam shaft as long as it's not destroyed, because it's designed action creates works with the solenoid to create the high oil pressure thus enabling the oil to defy gravity and reach in those tiny holes and oddly ports for the rollers and lifters which is exactly where uncle Tony's garage left out.
Wow - what an amazing video. I've got a 2018 Hemi Ram with 65K miles, and have been scared to death of "the tick." I hear mine only on cold starts, and only for 5 seconds or less. You addressed this in the video very clearly - THANK YOU. I'll also be checking my exhaust studs. But now, I'll sleep better knowing that my pickup is ok. I'm a frequent fill-syn oil changer, so hopefully this practice will protect my lifters for many more miles. Thanks again, I've subscribed for more great education!
GREAT VIDEO! So informative, can you make a video on performance cam shafts , specifically for the 5.7 hemi that talks about what sizes are good and bad for daily driving, there are a lot of us out here that want more performance but don’t want to race our cars. Thanks brother.
the 2005 ram 1500 that my dad passed down to me that hes owned its entire life. has had the soft tick at running temperature its entire life. and the truck is at 250,000+ miles and runs beautifully still
Story time. Here is my experience with the 5.7. USE OEM LIFTERS PERIOD. I have had aftermarket lifters fail within 10k mile on many occasions. This story is on a 2019 5.7 Charger and Chrysler's terrible practice. The Hemi never sounded "normal" from the time I put my butt in it at 81 miles. I questioned this but was told that it was normal.... No it wasn't and I knew it. Forward to the first lifter job at 23k? miles-ish. The dealer replaced 8 lifters and sent it out the door. I was not satisfied with this at all and was told that if there was not any metal in the VVT solenoid, they did not change the cam (hello,,,, bore scope). The engine still did not sound right and now the oil pressure at idle was about 20 psi up to temp. At 36k, here came the tick again. At always seem to appear after an oil change. This time, another dealership, changed all 16 lifters and the mac was of course, eaten up. Probably since the first repair. The engine still did not sound correct. I sent if back to them, they said again it was fine. I commented, see you in 20k. 58k, it ate a lifter again. Guess what? IT HAS BEEN THE SAME LIFTER EACH TIME. They changed the cam in lifters yet again. They refused to throw a long block in it. There is obviously an issue with something that is causing the same intake lifter to get eaten. I am still in a battle with them on the subject. Did I mention, it still does not sound correct. Its a loud engine by design, but this thing is VERY VERY loud through and through. I'm over Chrysler.
I hate to hear that man. 😔 the truth is, sometimes you just get a bad one. I have to say I am surprised that with the engine history they haven't authorized a new engine at this point. Have you contacted Chrysler customer care yet? I would think with your service records it would be likely you'd be able to get something done. Just do you are aware, sometimes the dealer didn't have authorization to do things like replace the engine, but if you as the buying customer gets Chrysler involved you can actually have more sway than we can! I don't usually recommend it, because once Chrysler care gets involved everything gets messier, but for your situation it makes sense. 👍
Just came across this video and it's been very helpful. Fortunately for me it's been the exhaust manifold bolts. On the second time around of dealing with them and this time I swapping to shorty headers. 123K miles, still have the first bolt I had to extract from inside the block from the first tick. The true tick in my opinion 😂
My 2004 hemi Durango I've had for over 10 years and only changed the oil once, motor has 300k+ and runs great! I never change my oil in any of my vehicles and never have problems. I also run 20-50, well I actually just add oil every couple of months :)
I'm at 125,000 miles on my 2018 Rebel 5.7. The majority of those miles are highway, do I need to change my transmission fluid? There seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there.
@@davidhaywood9794 I would! ZF (not chrysler) recomends at around 70K mi to change fluid and pan/filter...I've done it myself about 3 times for a few of my "business use" Rams...The fluid will start to break down around 170,000 miles. The tranny starts to chatter/bump around 3-4 gear...fluid changed, it disappeared (but damage might have been done for waiting). Chrysler is only interested in the tranny getting past the 100K Power train warranty
@@davidhaywood9794 agreed, I generally say about every 100k miles is a good interval. I know a lot of people have asked for a ZF trans service video, that will probably be forthcoming. 👍
Curious on you take of Oils.(Ram 1500 4th gen) I use Penn ultra platinum with MO-339 filter New til 100k miles then switch to Penns ultra platinum high mileage will a moly additive (with a catch can). Low miles with less idling I change around 7500k and change at 5000k-7000k after I go over 100K on the Odometer. People on the forums are recommending Redline 5w-30 and say the (lifter i assume) tick disapears.
I’ve Been a mechanic for more then 50 years, I drove every brand in North America, I had a business to repair general light and heavy duty, I most be the luckiest SOB,,,,I have close then 6 million kilometers on all my dodges, my business in the oil fields as a natural gas mechanic for more then 20 years,at times I owned 12 service trucks and 3 personnel vehicles all Mopars,,,,never had a major failure….i had a 2014 sport that was left running for more then 36 hrs!!!! I forgot to shut it down….I shut down and let it cool down and change the oil and filter…..it’s been over a year now and still runs good. So yeah Hemi (tick)and all kind of failures……I never had any of the problems…..all my gas jobs and diesels never ever gave me problems…I own an eco diesel 2016, this one pulled 12500lbs across Canada 3500kms…this one too run 100%….I had to replace the alternator on that one…..that is it….all the problems I heard….they are stranger to me……anyways….I service and religiously do all the maintenance needed and most time before 5000milles…all fluids and power train are checked and serviced…I most be the luckiest SOB….or I know what these vehicles needed…
I want to thank you for this video and all the information in it. Without getting into ALL the details, you saved me a shit-ton of money. I had a shop quote me $13k to replace the engine, and $9k to do the cam and lifters for a dead lifter and cylinder 8 misfire, the furthest one from the oil pump. They WOULD NOT put a Hellcat oil pump on my 2014 RAM Sport. I called four shops altogether, and they all quoted right at 5. I wont get into that whole fiasco, but I payed them $600 in labor done to fuck off, and had it towed to a different shop that got it done plus spark plugs and the Hellcat oil pump for a little over $5k. That shop hadn't heard of the Hellcat oil pump swap, and at least two of their mechanics are going to be doing this to their trucks. They told me they do a lot of these trucks and they're used to seeing high teens for oil pressure. Mine was idling at 39psi fully warmed up and sitting yesterday when I picked it up, and getting over 80psi when accelerating hard. This morning from a cold start, I was seeing 59 at an idle and 73 at a cruise. This thing runs like a pissed off rhino now. Just to see what it would do, I stomped on it when I picked it up and got it to fishtail a bit on dry slick pavement. Son, I am impress. Major thanks to you, I'll be spreading the word about the oil pump. Shop says I should be good to go for another hundred thousand. Liked and subbed, I'm sharing your video everywhere I can.
2915 ram 1500 had it 4 months told I had the Hemi tic turned out bad motor and now having to come up with $8000.00 for a Jasper Engine, turns out it was the cam and the motor went to hell!!! $22000 at the dealership for a new engine will never own another one!! Oil pressure at idle would only be 13psi and 35psi at 3000 rpm, so everything your saying is right on!!
Thank you so much for this video, I have a 2012 Charger Rt and I just reached 99k miles and it just now came up I had a P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire and changed spark plugs and everything, had springs and everything looked at but they couldn’t think of anything but to change the camshaft and lifters so now I’m going to have to save up and get it replaced
You mentioned shorty headers. Are there any that are easier to install than others? I've read a few reviews but who really knows better than a tech that does it for a living! Thanks for all the great info!!
My 300c hemi 5.7 2014 it's has a chirping sound. Ever couple sec it will chirp, mechanic said even if I fix lifters 6months later the bottom will go bad. What should I do
@ROBJUDAH ABIR that's someone who's trying to cover themselves if something happens down the line. There is potential for something like that to happen if enough metal has gone through the engine, but it really comes down to how badly the camshaft is damaged. If it's caught early enough there's no problem at all just replacing the cam/lifters.
THERE IT IS! Pretty confident mine is just the exhaust. I thought the noise was coming from too low under the truck to be lifter noise. I'm still not sure its even as high as the manifold. Great video.
Chrysler was always the weird cousin that nobody wanted around. Constantly trying to keep up with Chevy and ford . Chevy sold the coyote engine to Ford and Chrysler has always had to be different. When drag racing became a sport Chrysler had a front oil sump that needed to be changed and the whole world of racing jumped on the Chevy bandwagon and Chrysler got pushed back to always in third place.
Thank you so much for your time. Because I was wondering what this so called. HEMI "tick" was. Because I was thinking of buying a used State Patrol Charger. Now I know what to look for. And why they're probably getting rid of it.
2017 heavy duty tradesman 6.4 Hemi ,big truck but I'm starting to love it more than my Chevy, never thought I'd say that but now I know why all the ranch people buy The Ram product.
Good info! Mine ticks from the cold start , also i haven’t seen any running issues or anything like that or codes thrown up. It’s been ticking for almost 3 years and no real changes. But that may explain the exhaust smell
I’ve had eight Hemis, six 5.7s and two 6.4s. Never had any issue. We put at least 150k on the first seven, at 101 on my current ram. Quality shortie headers like JBA solves the exhaust leak issue. Performance gains are small but you’ll never have a leak again. Trucks do it more because the exhaust isn’t supported as well.
Great...Great video and explanation. Finally an excellent explanation regarding the exhaust tick. Now I know exactly what I have and why I have the problem. Thanks very much
I recently bought a 2010 Ram, 5.7. Has 158K on it. I would occasionally hear a slight tick when starting it, sometimes. A local shop took the valve covers off, looked inside, all looks good. I now use Royal Purple HMX 5w20 oil, and just a touch of zinc additive for extra protection
For header removal/installation, do you just removed the head? Those bolts on my Trackhawk look like a major PIA to torque correctly with head installed. Thinking of installing aluminum long tubes.
As crazy as it might sound, yes I prefer to just remove the heads to get the headers off on the jeeps, it's actually easier. That being said, I've never tried to reinstall them with long tubes bolted to them.
This is great information! I am thinking of getting a 2018 2500 6.4 mega cab and this info helps me better understand the engine I will be getting into!
Great Great video. Very informative. My thought with the trucks having the exhaust manifold bolts breaking more then any other. There is no exhaust hangers or supports for the heavy Y PIPE, CATS, and MANIFOLDS other then the manifold bolts. The first hanger or support is at the muffler. All the flex in all the exhaust piping that is supported by the manifold bolts. And the trucks have a longer y pipe to them rather then the cars with a very small y pipe.
Thanks for this video, I was having the problem with the exhaust manifolds bolts. Took it to the dealer today they found 4 broken bolts on both manifolds, they are going to replace all the bolts and put in new gaskets at no cost to me, I have a 2017 1500 big have rn with only 35500 on. So get them checked.
My 2015 challenger has a tick that it only makes when the car is in gear (manual) that increases under acceleration, does not go away after warm up but does not do it at all in neutral. What could it be?
Nice video I have a tick. 2010 Ram 1500 5.7l. It's fairly loud. A constant tick that ticks about 2 or 3 times each second. Only seem to hear it while it's coasting, moving while not on the gas. I'm gonna try out these diagnostic steps and try to narrow it down.
Since watching this video I started monitoring my oil pressure gauge. When I had 10W-30 oil in my Hemi, my idling oil psi was 32. After switching to 5W-20 oil, my idling psi dropped to 27.
Thicker oil if you're driving it hard and some lucas every oil change will help keep the valve train lubed up enough to get proper oil. Lucas sticks to the parts and keeps them lubed when it's idling or when it's cold until the proper lubrication can occur. A customer of mine has a 17 hemi ram with 120,000 miles on it, that idles the truck for hours at a time. It started developing a soft tick with horrible spark knock(misfire) under light acceleration. Under moderate to hard acceleration, the noise goes away and it runs fine. The shop he had it at replaced coil packs and told him it's an internal engine issue and he needs a new engine. I'm gonna instruct him a thicker 10w 30 oil with lucas on next oil change, see if anything changes.
@@ATSNorthernMI I switched to Amsoil Signature Series best oil there is, I wouldn’t wanna add any additives to it and change its design. I’m gonna replace oil pump with a high volume. I would definitely consider switching to 5W-30 oil. That just might be the perfect oil for a Hemi.
I checked my heat shields and sure enough, the rear stud of the passenger side manifold has snapped. Could an exhaust leak caused by this trigger P0420/P0430 catalytic converter efficiency codes or am I looking at two different issues?
It is possible that an exhaust leak could trigger those codes, but if they are still present after you fix the exhaust leaks I'd be replacing the oxygen sensors- they are far and away the most common cause of catalyst efficiency codes. 👍
I have heard that they have recently revised the exhaust manifold so that it cracks before the bolts break. At least you don’t have to extract a broken bolt from the head. I guess that’s an improvement.
Ok so question. I have a tick. It started while I had cruise control on at 60mph. Very noticeable difference from any sound it normally produces. Took everything off including the head down to the engine block (on passenger side). All lifters looked great, no galling or anything outside of normal wear, which was barely any, no play at all and really they look and feel great. All intake/exhaust rods were in perfect condition. When I drained the oil, no metal shavings at all. I checked the header bolts (long tubes) and they're all good and there's no exhaust leaks. Checked rocker arms, springs and bolts all good too. So I just put it all back together, refilled the oil and coolant and started her up. Still making the ticking noise on passenger side. No codes being thrown, no misfires, car still runs and shifts like normal. Sound does increase with RPM (not the volume just the speed). I'm just so confused because I inspected every single physical part (that I know of) that could be making the noise and everything looks great. Any ideas on what it might be? The noise is awful haha but she runs like normal no problems. Here's a list of everything done to the car (2018 Chrysler 300s 5.7 hemi). JLT CAI, ported throttle body, ported 6.4 intake manifold with activated runners, ported heads, Comp Cam custom grind cam, upgraded springs and rods, hellcat lifters, long tube headers, Magnaflow exhaust, 3.09 limited slip rear diff, hellcat wheels and wider tires.
Thanks for the great video I hear a lot of guys talking about switching to 5W-30 and was just wondering your thoughts on this topic. For example I watched a video and the producer said the main reason for 5W-20 is for better gas mileage, and that 5 W 30 provides better protection
Please watch my NEWEST video to get the very latest info on this issue!
ua-cam.com/video/1gpEwkTVCmE/v-deo.htmlsi=Zh-s2MnZE5fdGmmM
If the vvt solenoid is full of metal can I just replace the motor block?
And put engine back together
@jobarhenderson9020 yes but make sure you flush the heads as well as possible before reinstalling them. 👍
One more question I just paid for a rebuild on my 5.7! First day I got it back it’s was doing hemi tick lol I took it back he said a lifter got stuck! Questioning being should mechanic have took camshaft out again to check to see if It’s got worn down?
@jobarhenderson9020 all depends on what was replaced. If he already replaced the cam and lifters together, then a stuck lifter would probably mean the hydraulic portion of the lifter failed, which wouldn't affect the camshaft. However if just the lifters were replaced then I'd definitely be looking at the cam lobes.
Man you are really nailing all these hemi lifter videos. As a 25yr diesel mechanic i really cant find fault in a single thing you've said. You got my seal of approval for accurate unbiased information!
Hey I appreciate the kind words thank you!
Lots of good info here. As a Chrysler tech myself, I've repaired all these issues countless times. I tend to agree with pretty much everything you have said here. One thing I would add, the newer 2019 trucks no longer have exhaust bolts failing, but now I have seen countless manifolds actually crack in-between the middle cylinders. A good substitute for the lifters would be to go with a Johnson lifter. They are very high quality lifters and imo a better lifter then the oem. Lots of good and very accurate info in this video!
Always appreciate other Chrysler tech checking in! 👍
i own a 2019 ram with the hemi, 5th gen not the classic, mine popped 8 different manifol studs so yes its still happening. swapped to bbk headers to stop the issue
I can confirm. Both my manifolds are cracked right down the middle. Bolts are tight.....and hopefully don't snap as I remove them this weekend. Replacement headers are in the mail right now. 71,000 miles.
I own a 21scatpack charger and I hear a tick when I press on the acceleration in my car
Out of the millions of hemis out there on the road probably only 1% are lifter failures up to 5% report ticking noises and most of the time it is the exhaust manifold the gen 4s at least it's an easy fix I remachined the warped manifold flat and square and put new studs on, the new ones the manifolds are just straight up breaking which means you'll be replacing it multiple times as when you put a new one on it will also warp and break later on.
I've watched all of your videos on this topic, and by far this is the best and most complete explanation you've ever presented. Thank you!
Thank you for the great compliment! 👊
Thanks for addressing MDS. I’ve heard dudes say that they defeat MDS by turning on the gear limiter and selecting to use all 8 gears. This prevents the truck from going into Eco mode. I’ve tried it and it works.
This wins the interwebs. I have 'A' tick and a local repair shop told me I needed the lifter/camshaft replacement. They also said that none of the exhaust manifold bolts were broken. Later, I had a coworker look at it who has worked on these engines for years and he found the passenger side rear exhaust manifold bolt was indeed broken - using the exact technique you present here. I was also glad to hear, in this video, that the lifter/camshaft problem only presents itself after the engine is at operating temps. My 'tick' happens on cold start-up and remains for some time after. After watching this I'm pretty confident it's the broken bolt. Thanks for posting this very detailed presentation on exactly how to diagnose this issue.
@@mudmavis2011 was this the issue? Got an update ?
I have owned a 5.7 Hemi in a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 and bought it new. I noticed the tick when shopping for this truck. Now I have 194,000 miles without any engine issues. Best vehicle I have ever owned and I am 74 years of age.
I love your videos. I pulled my 07 5.7 300c cam and put it back together because of you. Please ensure our 300 owners, we could have the same problems. I have noticed in the hemi world everyone mentions changer and challengers regarding the hemi but never the 300.
Please continue the amazing content.
The good ol’ “Mexican Bentley”
@@nigWANTsomeDAnk 😂😂😂😂
He clearly states 05-09 don’t have these problems lol.. why would you tear your engine apart lol. 😂
Excellent and comprehensive video. My 2011 1500 5.7 had the lifter/camshaft failure at 101K miles. It was scary, because all of a sudden, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and was dinging at the same time. The engine during acceleration felt like it was about to jump out of the truck. Chrysler paid for the failure fix because it was so close to the 100K drive-train warranty...$4,000. All I paid for was shop supplies at the dealer. I'm now at 245K miles and am replacing the engine, as it was starting the same lifter/camshaft failure. I change the oil every 5K miles religiously, using a top-tier synthetic. I have also had issues with the exhaust "tick" multiple times...even with upgraded hardware. That's a pain! With the recent engine swap, I have gone to stainless steel shorty headers, hoping I get some relief from the exhaust issue. It's good so far, except I had to re-tighten the bolts after 500 miles. All-in-all, I love my truck, and it gives me great service. Just take care of your vehicle, and it will take care of you!
100k drivetrain warranty in 2011? And now they are 60k or 5 years.
Though I'm gonna guess you went with the extended warranty
Surprised that they let it slide... Pretty sure the service manager fudged the odometer reading. Doubt the manufacture would do any such thing.
@@Hydra360cinope, it was 100k then.
The one thing that is unfortunately stopping me from buying a Hemi V8. Thank you for your coverage on this topic. Your coverage on this cam and lifter failure problem is the BEST in the world.
I've had limited success with the hemi engines. I typically shy away from them.
@@moabman6803 Thanks for sharing!
On a positive note..... my 2010 has 370 000kms on it. No tick.
@@jontorrie2212 Awesome 👍
Metal to metal contact with no oil even for a few seconds caused excessive wear and for how, much a new ram cost today this is unacceptable to me.
Appreciate the great informative video. The lifters on my 2003 Dodge 2500 5.7 Hemi went out at 190,000 miles, change my oil every three thousand miles, had the dealer replace the whole top end of the engine. Running like a champ and currently at 287,000 miles. Thank you!!!
What was entailed in that?
And how much did it cost (ballpark)?
@@MH3GL maybe around 4 to 5k
Wow!
Both my gen 3 hemis run just fine, have always kept my oil/filter changed every 5K miles even with high quality synthetic oil available. My '12 Challenger now has 126K miles on it and the engine continues to run like a top, lifter noise is minimal if at all, and, yes, the injectors on both my hemi cars are noisy, almost sounds like real quiet solid lifters! The '14 300C has 72K on it and runs great as well, even with the dreaded MDS lifters still installed(they are electronically shut off, no change in mileage). I think some piston slap when cold is the only thing I do notice, especially in my '12 high mileage engine, and that is a normal noise with the shorter piston skirt length in modern engines.
I also change my differential oil each oil change, only 1.5 qt or so in each unit and drain & fill plugs make that super easy.
Happy with my cars, thanks for the informative video!
I have 2, one in an 07 AWD 300C and one in a '12 JGC. The 300's 5.7 has been incredibly reliable. Currently has a LMI carbon fiber intake, catch can (a must on all Hemi's, imo) suitcase/resonator delete, and a Hemifever 93 tune. It's fun, certainly no Vette, but a great year-round DD. And even with 198k miles has 0 abnormal noises and runs great having only needed an oil pressure sensor and two O2 sensors. The '12 has been a little more troublesome as far as minor maintenance (waterpump failure at 135k, alternator at 140k, upper rad hose met the water pump pulley when the retention clip fatigue cracked, a few little odds and ends) But, I do unfortunately believe we will be having to pull the cam and lifters on it within the next year. Starting to get what sounds like intermittent lifter tapping at hot idle. It has a K&N intake (the aluminum one with the heat sheild isolating the filter) and straight-pipe catback. The 300 has seen more than it's fair share of 'trips to Mexico' and the GC is pretty much babied by my wife, so I suppose it's kind of a crapshoot as to which ones will fail.
I worked at Mopar for a while and I still love these engines. I know exactly what can go wrong with them but I'd have one anyway. Intake ports so big you can fall into them.
I can't wait to find a truck that someone wants to scrap because it needs a cam/lifters.
I think it's the lack of a flex pipe in the exhaust of the trucks that makes it worse. I could be wrong, but I think it's putting more stress on the manifold hardware than it does in the cars and SUVs.
Every V8 Ive ever owned has had some kind of tick eventually. Even when new, my Toyota 4.7 made more noise at idle than most american V8s. Im a big fan of the 03-08 5.7 Hemi, all of the ticks I had with them were exhaust manifold related. These engines are extremely durable as long as you maintain the cooling system and dont overheat them.
My daily driver is an 03 1500 5.7 with 230k. It has been absolutely run hard and put up wet, but never been ran hot, and every little maintenance replacement was on time. It’s a tank. Only issue is valve guides letting oil Into the combustion chamber 😂
My 5.2 magnum is stupid quiet, like all you hear is intake suction and exhaust and that's it. Most quietest and beautiful running motor I've had. I just tore it down at 200k just because I did a frame off resto and might as well do the motor while its out, and the internals were amazing.
@@tomc8157 5.2? you mean 5.7?
@@onthethrottle7104 nope the 318, 5.2.
@@tomc8157 completely agree that the Magnum motors are quite possibly the quietest, smoothest and most reliable V8 engines ever made. I've had the same 5.2 Magnum 1500 since brand new in 2000 and the engine refuses to do anything but operate like a sewing machine.
Dude so much to say on this video, first of all I believe you have done a great job on this topic. To qualify myself to you and others I am an engineer and mechanical guy with 30 + years experience in the industry and have been the chief engineer for SRC on the Delphi Roller Hydraulic Lifter program. 1) I would recommend a aux engine cooler change-out with every catastrophic lifter cam failure regardless of the metal found in the strainer of the MDS solenoid, (I bet you do too.). 2) And also also one mis I believe, is check the pressure exerted on the exhaust manifold from the exhaust downpipe, the factory pre-bends the pipes ahead the truck being built and would work in theory except the truck are all different lengths (slightly) when final assy. is achieved. A custom made exhaust after assembly would eliminate the stress imposed by the downpipe. And I have much more if interested
The dealership should be doing a recall to fix it all instead of making it out to be everybody else's problem when they manufactured a engine that is flawed
Thanks Reignited, for this article. My ride: 2018 SRT 6.4L Charger. 40K miles. Backed it out this AM and went back into the house to get something I'd forgotten. Engine was idling, and I heard a kind of soft ticking (almost like a squish-squish-squish) that seemed to come and go. Uh oh. Listened to all the belt idlers and rotating parts on the engine front end with my PVC listening tube. All were whirring typical of bearings, but the earlier heard noise was elusive. So I checked out this video. Well presented.
I believe this sound is from the injectors. Removed the plastic covers on the heads. Yes, they are a bit noisy. I am guessing what I heard were the injectors. Keeping my ears open on this.
Then I looked for the sheet metal covers on cast iron exhaust manifolds. Guess what? No cast iron exhaust manifolds. No heat shields. The SRT 6.4L has welded stainless steel short headers leading directly into the huge cats. Someone else may have noted this below.
I have also noticed over time how the oil pressure with hot oil drops to about 30 psig (never ever lower) when the RPMs get below about 900. Above that the pressure climbs very rapidly to 55 to 62 psig. Don't quite know how a better pump would improve this. Keep in mind that this engine must pull a load at RPMs as low as about 1200 when in 8th gear. You do not want low oil pressure in high engine load situations, and the stock pump seems to be doing the job.
I will stay with a 6000 mile oil change interval. I am running 0W-40 full synthetic Amsoil Signature oil. Actual testing has shown this lube to be superior vs. wear under high loads. With more miles we shall see how this oil may possibly protect the lifters.
In every respect a fabulous great car.
Hey Reignited. Thanks for doing these videos as they are very well explained and accurate. I spent way to many hours trying to find the normal and anormal hemi engine noise. I purchased a 2017 power wagon with 35k miles on couple month ago and always found engine noisy and since I learn about that ticking problem, it started to hit on me as it does sound like that. Here is the thing, since you are a Dodge mechanic and because you can clearly identify the problem of a failed lifter VS normal valve train noise only by listening to it, I think making a video with microphone from the noise into the front wheel pits that we can clearly hear the noise difference would be very popular. And that will calm so many people like me that do not cross other 6.4 that often to check the noise. I could not find anything decent on UA-cam regarding that noise. Lets hope you can consider doing this.
Yes great video for dumb ass that buying a garbage truck. He is completely telling you what that garbage is.
Yo, I have a Ram 17' 1500 , and this video has enlightened me on my tick. I had the usual tick at start up but it would go away AFTER it warmed up. But now , after being at body shop , which took about a month , btw , the tick just stays. I was devastated. But according to this video, it's NOT the catastrophic tick that us HEMI owners all dread. Thanks , man. I can breathe again.😊
I have the same year ram 1500, I get the start up tick and now I’m getting a tick when hitting the gas for a few seconds.
@@Sneakyturtl333 try 10 w40 oil
Great information. I heard that startup rattle quite often and it’s good to know there’s nothing to worry about. Awesome channel!
Mannnnnnn at 150ishk miles on my 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, I decided to check the exhaust manifold heat covers thanks to your video.
I noticed ticking probably 10 to 20 thousand miles ago and I finally found your video. Usually I don't like to wait this long to fix an issue but, bc I heard the name "Hemi tick" I was under the assumption that it was just common to these engines.
Boy I couldn't be more glad I decided to dig in and figure out if there was a solution before it became more serious. Thank youuu. I checked both sides and the heat shield was broken on the right side of the eng and left side, was also broken either at the studs or heat shield.
Looks like I got some mantenance to perform.
Not only that but, with checking the right side under the heat cover I found a wet spot which lookes like oil from a comprimised valve cover.
Time to save some money and do it myself.
Thank you again.
Thank you for this detailed explanation on various ticks, noises and causes. Your channel is one of the best!
i own a 2005 doge ram 1500 4x4 thunderroad edition that i bought brand new to this day and with 169788 miles high way driven every day to work countless fire calls ems calls trips down the interstate to as far and back to florida. 2 months after i bought it i switch to full synthetic oil and when Vpower gas came out and felt the immediate resoponce to it well ive been using both since never had the hemi tic and i just changed the original fuel pump and i have 135000 on the 2nd set of plugs and original coil packs. 1 down fall ive put 4 water pumps on mine!!!!!! and i love your channel youve given me future ideas so please keep them comming AKA DJ
22 minute mark you really make it clear how pulling the solenoids affects the oil and why you would have to replace the lifters as a result. another thing that after hearing it seems obvious but sometimes you can't quite connect the dots. Thanks a ton. I've been watching your videos all day and now I'm definitely subscribed 💯
I just had this done to my 2012 Jeep Overland. My local mechanic found that the cam was bad as well as the lifters. He said that the only way to fix it was to pull the engine. He replaced the cam, the lifters and the oil pump with a Melling high volume unit. $5K for the entire job and it took 4 days! But now, the Jeep runs strong! It cost me a bunch, but the Jeep is very solid!
You are spot on! I just had the exhaust manifolds changed on my 2014 Ram, went in thinking it was the lifters, was very happy it was just the manifolds!
Going through this now
I am a mechanic, I love watching UA-cam videos to see how true they are. I had my son come watch your video to show him everything I say about Hemi’s because some reason he always test me on my knowledge. I enjoyed showing him your hemi tick video because he listens to his LS buddies and coyote buddies to much. I am a huge Mopar fan, I have 7 Hemi’s from 426 to 6.1. My newer Hemi’s are awesome and very reliable. My 13’ Ram express is pretty nasty and my daily driver. I have never had a problem but I maintain my vehicles on a regular basis. A lot people don’t and can’t afford the repairs so just sell me their vehicle cheap or give them to me. I fix and keep or sell them. I love them Mopar Hemi ways!!
Great advise! First time viewer and subscriber now!
I have an 09 Ram 1500 now with 329k.
I did the cam/lifter work at 209k. Might be time to do a full rebuild now. Only did cam/lifter/valve first time.
Nice! Great example of getting good mileage out of a Hemi engine 💪
I've got a 2005. Wondering if it's worth it to do a full rebuild. Luv my truck.
Great Info! Finally after 259K Miles I got the Hemi Catastrophic Tick! 2003 Ram 1500 - Remanned & updated Hemi and Tranny with 7 Year No Fault warranty coming! Headers as you recommend too! You are the Best Source for Hemi info on UA-cam!
Lol, no you didn't hemi tick in 03-09 wasn't lifter/cam related. Piston slap you could hear in the front wheel wells. You might drop a valve, lol but your lifter and cam is safe. Not even remotely the same 5.7 eagle vs preeagle
My volume knob on my radio fixed my tick🤣 :UPDATE: THIS WAS A JOKE.....MY 💩 PUTTING OUT ABOUT 600HP 🤦
Yeah until your cam looks like Swiss cheese
Fuck yeah bro
HELL YEAH
Yeah I was thinking about getting a ram 3500 with the 6.4 hemi but after hearing about this I’m gonna go ahead and stay away from ram.
@@Back_door_bandit_98 6.4 doesn't have the same lifter problems
its not often someone i dont really know saves me money and time. i want to thank you for this very vital info for us hemi owners
Thank you for the kind words and I appreciate you watching 👍
As a fellow MOPAR tech: the DT trucks don't break bolts on the manifolds because they added reinforcement brackets to the front of the manifolds. Now they just Crack the manifolds themselves. I've done two pairs now. One on my 2019 DT Ram...
I just did my first cracked manifold on a 2020 last week! Always nice to see another tech on here 👊
Excellent information. As the owner of two 392 Hemi powered vehicles, I have more peace of mind now. Thank you.
Hi I have for a long time tried to find the tick in my ram1500 5.7. replaced parts to no avail. listen thru a stethascope and heard a quiet running engine but still wasnt sure. Then on your video you said pull on the heat shield and it came off exactly like your video did. Outstanding. Now I can repair it knowing for sure thats the problem and not a rocker or lifter etc. Thanks soo much.
Good news Harry! And thank you for watching 👍
Dude! I’m so glad I found this video. Just bought a 2013 Durango with the 5.7, and it has an ominous ticking sound on cold startup which I didn't hear when I first test drove it. I’m not a full on mechanic, but I do most of my own work, and this video was fantastically helpful. At least now I feel like there is still some hope for this high mileage Hemi.
Thank you for such a great video. I’m subscribed.
Rule number 1: if you wind up needing to replace a manifold bolt. Just upgrade the headers. Those logs are suffocating the engine.
Rule #2 if it isn’t long tubes don’t bother
@@regal105 if you're only going to mod the exhaust, long tubes are a waste.
@@mrhyde0705 how so?
@@mattjingles5758 ive had both, and was able to compare shorties to long tubes, cars were the exact same, rolled off the line at the same time, shorties had it until 65, than long tubes started to catch up.unless you're going to be at the strip or doing rolls, shorties are fine if you're only touching exhaust. However if you're going to do an aggressive cam or F.I, long tubes are the better choice.
That, and when i went from shorties to long tubes, the exhaust note actually got quieter, and the 0-60 didnt change, this was before i started really having a midlife crisis though 🤣
I have a 2012 ram 2500 work truck in our garage. It started out with random misfires and then developed a continuous miss and it ended up being number seven pushrod jumped out of the rocker arm. Your videos are very detailed and helped us decide on which avenue to take to repair this situation. Thank you so much for this great and detailed content 👍
Hello from a fellow chrysler tech! I just got out of the dealer after 7 years. Very good information in this video. Really accurate information, and good fixes. I've been doing hellcat oil pump installs on the 5.7s and had really good luck with them. Idle pressure is a lot better with them.
Second, I've spoke with chrysler trainers and engineers before. They told me the oil comes into the lifters from the rocker assembly and down the pushrods. The oil gallery in the block is specifically for the MDS activation, from what they told me.
You mentioned hellcat lifters, which was funny because they are 100% identical like you said. The MDS system is pretty reliable and I really hardly see issues with it.
Excellent video! Glad to see some real, verified, and accurate information on the internet for once.
Appreciate the kind words, and it's always nice to hear from a fellow tech! 👊
I live in canada where winter is 8 months long and we get many days at -40f as a high temperature. Thanks for your video as a tick has occurred on my 2011 hemi that I am worried about. You have given me the knowledge to identify the cause and hopefully avoid an engine teardown at this time. I will be ordering the helmet oil pump very soon.😊
Excellent content. Thanks! Have an ageing 2015 1500 Ram and want to keep it running for as long as possible - will definitely be watching more of your channel.
Same, I have a 2011 I'm trying to run until the market cools off a little bit more, or if never have this in good shape to keep running.
@TOXIC-jq3ry same. I have an 11 2500 with the 5.7. 280k miles. Everything has been good and just in the past 4 days it's developed a loud tick. But mine is there from startup to shut down. Don't matter how much you run it. So I'm guessing it's the hydraulic lifter failure and not the 'bad ' one? 😅
This one of most comprehensive and fact-based engine videos I've ever watched. I admit I might not (holey?) completely understand the (hole?) entire prep-h joke at 23:57, however I did watch those few seconds about 8 times.
Any chance you have audio samples of the different ticking sounds that could possibly be used to help diagnose the issue?
Here's mine, 16k on a rebuild with noisy lifters at startup ua-cam.com/video/9xNoGOfvLPc/v-deo.html
@@MsBee So your lifters just ticked during start-up? It didn't sound like it was constantly ticking.
Yes, it's like one of the first issues he described, loud on cold the cold start but goes away really quickly.
@@MsBee Mine keeps ticking and never stops. Have you fixed yours?
I finally put headers on my 5.7 ram to fix the exhaust leak and now all you hear are those LOUD ASS INJECTORS! 😭 can't win!
Great video as always.
😂
New sub here and I must say that this by far is one of the best videos on understanding all the ticks from a hemi. My 14' just started this last week and its been driving me crazy trying to find what it is. Manifold bolts already changed.
Did you figure out what it was? My ‘14 sport started ticking a few weeks ago
@@tyladandrea6739 Nope took it to the dealership and first thing they say is manifold bolts... Can't be I changed both sides. Told me it's normal for most hemi trucks my yr to have a slight ticking🤦🏽♂️.
@@kuntryboi867 I swear every single mechanic hears the tick and automatic goes with the manifold bolts. I just had mine changed but I’m bringing it back into the shop next week. Ill let you know if they come up with anything different!
Mine is doing the same thing. Other people think I'm nuts. I thimk there might be an oil delivery issie to the lifters.
About to go check out a 2011 with 333k km's on it. Dings all over it (old guy was driving it), check engine light is on and the fuel gauge doesn't work. Bringing a scan tool with me. Been crash coursing info on these things so much appreciated for the in depth.
Cheers! 🇨🇦
Oops.
RAM 1500 4x4.
Why not use a 5w-30 oil? It's thicker, you will have a higher oil pressure, and you will have a thicker oil film between the parts.
Don't RAM's throw a code if you use any oil but 5W20? P1521? Incorrect Oil Viscosity?
@@knudsensautospecialists5197no i put 5-30 conventional in and no codes
These are the best and most comprehensive videos I have seen on the Hemi. I own one myself and have heard all these misconceptions before and didn't know which one to believe. Thanks for the content!
Just read where GMC vehicles including 5.3 have a class-action lawsuit over lifters MDS. for 2020 to 22. going back to 2014. Had a 2014 Silverado do this and then complete engine replacement at 102k. $7,000. Sort of sad this will be the last year of the Hemi engine in 1500 trucks as a 6 turbo is replacing it.
Will they still run the bigger hemi engine in the 2500?
I've read they will continue using Hemi in larger trucks and commercial trucks.
Any MD GM engine is garbage dating back to the 80s lol. I disable MD the first second I get a 2010+ 5.3 then they are completely fine.
@@masalicio JUST THE SAME FOR HEMI TICK AND MDS HEMI ON DODGE V6, 5.7, AND 392 ENGINES ON ALL DODGE EQUIPPED WITH ABOVE ENGINES I.E. POPULAR CHALLENGER AND CHARGER JUST TO NAME A FEW. 🤑 MONEY PIT FROM START TO END AND START OVER AGAIN BECAUSE STEALERSHIPS USE SAME PART🤮🤑. ONLY WAY TO PREVENT THESE PROBLEMS IS DON'T BUY A DODGE/CHRYSLER VEHICLE. "NO CAR NO MOPAR"🤢🤮🤑
NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS TO FIX AND BAND AID FIXES.
And turbos have their own set of issues 😔
Very good video. I have a 06 Charger 5.7 with 231k. No issues there. I change my oil every 5k and also live on a mountain so it sees a lot of rpm range. I also have a 16 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 with the 5.7 with 238k on it. Also runs great. Has the exhaust leak I’ll be getting to that soon. Your videos are the best I’ve seen on the 5.7 Hemi’s. And for that thank you Sir😊
That was a great video! It covers things so clearly that anyone who watches should understand what is happening. Great presentation. Did you get a new editor? If not, your editing skills are getting really good. I like the new intro.
Hey thanks Tom! I have been trying to improve my editing I'm glad you noticed 👊
👊
Great video very informative, ive rebuilt these motors several times and what ive found is that installing a high flow oil pump is a great way to keep proper cooling but plain and simple the most important thing out of everything is on time oil changes
It's so funny I haven't even watched the whole video before commenting and you talked about a high volume oil pump us dodge guys know our way around a hemi, what I haven't been able to figure out is I bought a 04 5.7 and the left head had a part number 1616 AJ never seen this before the passenger head is a 1616 BA which is your normal hemi head up to 09 I tried doing research but couldn't find anything
It's best to religiously change the oil every 3,000 miles, change the coolant once every 3 years, don't let it idle too long, and mostly high way drive it. That's how my Grandma's 2009 Chrysler 300C is still going over 240,000 miles on it and no serious problems at all. She drives it normally and not over revving it past 3,000 rpms.
It's better for a hemi running in higher rpms every once in awhile. It's Actually good for it an it's built for it..
I now have a tik from having to work on my hemi all the time!!
I change my oil @3000m even with synthetics. Just don't want to chance it. Oil change is much less $ than a repair from not changing it enough!! 🙌
Very good video, definitely explains the various ticks associated with the Hemi. However I have to make one major correction. The "Hemi Tick" was a phrase coined in the early to mid 2000s that described the loud ticking most of the hemis made at idle, long before the lifter/cam fails associated with the 09 + hemis.
The tick I believe was caused by valve stem to guid clearance and Dodge (at the time) even had a bulliten and repair for it. I had my 03 and 05 brought in and received a whole top end valve replacment. Unfortunately it never really worked and the ticking returned from time to time. The 03 was sold but the 05 went on to live 765000km of almost trouble free running. It was sold and still runs today.
That is the actually meaning if the hemi tick and any other use of the phrase is inaccurate, unless it has been hijacked lol.
That tick I believe is your lifter(s) not getting enough lubrication at idle. A high number of police cruisers, trucks, and SUVS with that motor experience lifter failure. And if you think about it those service vehicles sit for long hours everyday idling. Since people don't idle personal vehicles as much the number of failures for private owners is much lower. Its a fundamental design flaw with the lifter oiling system. By grooving slightly the side of the lifter bore you can achieve positive flow at idle to the lifter and eliminate this tick and eventual failure entirely. ua-cam.com/video/dI93-Zdx_nY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=UncleTony%27sGarage
The early hemi tick=piston slap-pre eagle
Eagle hemi ticks=shitty lifters, exhaust manifold bolts breaking.
Too many UA-cam mechanics talking out their asses.
Man, you REALLY put me on a roller coaster with this one. Lol
I havent been able to pinpoint exactly where my tick was coming from. When you talked about the manifold tick getting quieter as it warms, my heart sank. Mine doesnt go away. Its consistent. But when you said you dont hear the lifter tick on cold start, i relaxed a lot. Mine is consistent cold or hot.
Just pulled the heat shield off my passenger manifold. I dont have any broken bolts (yet). But my manifold is cracked right down the middle. Replacement manifolds are in the mail.
Thanks for this video
Ah, you must have a 2019+ Ram then 😄
@@ReignitedAuto Yup! Unfortunately kinda lot has happened since that comment. I replaced the manifold, but it had no effect on the tick. I pulled the spark plugs. They were pretty worn, so I swapped them along with the coil packs. Still no change to the tick.
It's constant tick that speeds up with RPMS. Doesn't get louder, just faster. I put a stethoscope to the oil pan, not coming from there. So I don't think it's rod knock. It's coming from the lower part of the head..... so all I can think is lifters.
Unless you have another idea?
@FirechildGaming you need to check both sides, the exhaust manifolds are cracking in the driver and passenger sides. 👍
Fantastic video Sky, really like how you clearly explained each tick. I still maintain that the VVT system changed the oil flow thru the system which is why the only the 2009 and up engines experience this issue. I also agree with you that the oil pump will like resolve the issue, as it will increase idle oil pressure and make up for the extra restriction in the system caused by the VVT system.
Check uncle Tony's garage , very good explanation of the oiling flaws in these generation hemi , not so much vvt as it is a bad design in the block not lubricating the camshaft and lifters
@@NNYstreetcarmafia yes i 2nd this. Solution: get a gm with a reputable model transmission, and delete/turn off AFM.
@@NNYstreetcarmafia hello T, I am familiar with that video, and while I recognize it has some merit, I agree with Sky on this and don’t believe that to be the primary cause of this problem, perhaps at best a contributing factor. Please keep in mind the Pre-Eagle engines did not have the lifter failure that the Eagle engines do. They are very similar in design with the major change being the VVT system added to the Eagle engine. This is what caused a major change to the oil system on the Eagle engine versus the Pre-Eagle engine. There are many other changes incorporated into the Eagle engine as well, however this is the one that affected the engine oil system the most. Both the Pre-Eagle and Eagle used the same lifters, and MDS system so that would eliminate them as the primary failure point. Just my 2 cents on the subject, but I do strongly believe Sky has a great theory on how to overcome this failing.
@@MongrelsGarage I have watched both videos from utg myself and both of sky's videos concerning this issue and I agree with you that the oil pressure makes up the difference for the horizontal(bad design) lifters. Regardless what Angle they're operating, just the proper pressure and type of oil will make the difference. In Sky's other or second video about this problem, at the end he suggested or came to a theory that has merit and suggested replacing mds lifters with oem NON-MDS lifters and keeping the mds solenoids to retain the oil pressure but this time you're not constricting the oil passage on any one cylinder at any cycle. Because the mds lifters have the different sized springs inside the shaft of the lifter and thick rod with spring activated pins that cause the life to be deactivated when the pressure is gone and prevents oil passing through to live the lifters and rollers. With oem lifters without the springs and pins, they act like conventional lifters on All 8 cylinders. He suggested keeping the mds cam shaft as long as it's not destroyed, because it's designed action creates works with the solenoid to create the high oil pressure thus enabling the oil to defy gravity and reach in those tiny holes and oddly ports for the rollers and lifters which is exactly where uncle Tony's garage left out.
Wow - what an amazing video. I've got a 2018 Hemi Ram with 65K miles, and have been scared to death of "the tick." I hear mine only on cold starts, and only for 5 seconds or less. You addressed this in the video very clearly - THANK YOU. I'll also be checking my exhaust studs. But now, I'll sleep better knowing that my pickup is ok. I'm a frequent fill-syn oil changer, so hopefully this practice will protect my lifters for many more miles. Thanks again, I've subscribed for more great education!
GREAT VIDEO! So informative, can you make a video on performance cam shafts , specifically for the 5.7 hemi that talks about what sizes are good and bad for daily driving, there are a lot of us out here that want more performance but don’t want to race our cars. Thanks brother.
seconded.
Thirded … lol
the 2005 ram 1500 that my dad passed down to me that hes owned its entire life. has had the soft tick at running temperature its entire life. and the truck is at 250,000+ miles and runs beautifully still
Story time. Here is my experience with the 5.7. USE OEM LIFTERS PERIOD. I have had aftermarket lifters fail within 10k mile on many occasions. This story is on a 2019 5.7 Charger and Chrysler's terrible practice. The Hemi never sounded "normal" from the time I put my butt in it at 81 miles. I questioned this but was told that it was normal.... No it wasn't and I knew it. Forward to the first lifter job at 23k? miles-ish. The dealer replaced 8 lifters and sent it out the door. I was not satisfied with this at all and was told that if there was not any metal in the VVT solenoid, they did not change the cam (hello,,,, bore scope). The engine still did not sound right and now the oil pressure at idle was about 20 psi up to temp. At 36k, here came the tick again. At always seem to appear after an oil change. This time, another dealership, changed all 16 lifters and the mac was of course, eaten up. Probably since the first repair. The engine still did not sound correct. I sent if back to them, they said again it was fine. I commented, see you in 20k. 58k, it ate a lifter again. Guess what? IT HAS BEEN THE SAME LIFTER EACH TIME. They changed the cam in lifters yet again. They refused to throw a long block in it. There is obviously an issue with something that is causing the same intake lifter to get eaten. I am still in a battle with them on the subject. Did I mention, it still does not sound correct. Its a loud engine by design, but this thing is VERY VERY loud through and through. I'm over Chrysler.
I hate to hear that man. 😔 the truth is, sometimes you just get a bad one. I have to say I am surprised that with the engine history they haven't authorized a new engine at this point. Have you contacted Chrysler customer care yet? I would think with your service records it would be likely you'd be able to get something done. Just do you are aware, sometimes the dealer didn't have authorization to do things like replace the engine, but if you as the buying customer gets Chrysler involved you can actually have more sway than we can! I don't usually recommend it, because once Chrysler care gets involved everything gets messier, but for your situation it makes sense. 👍
American un reliable product.😅
I have a 2020 Ram 1500 with only 55k , both headers have had leaks repaired. Great video! Thx!
Can you elaborate on why the worst case scenario lifter situation (roller failure) would have a sporadic tick and not a constant, even tick? Thanks!
Just came across this video and it's been very helpful. Fortunately for me it's been the exhaust manifold bolts. On the second time around of dealing with them and this time I swapping to shorty headers. 123K miles, still have the first bolt I had to extract from inside the block from the first tick. The true tick in my opinion 😂
Best video by far on this subject. Thanks for taking the time to break this down and explain clearly what is going on!
Appreciate you taking the time to watch it! 👊
My 2004 hemi Durango I've had for over 10 years and only changed the oil once, motor has 300k+ and runs great! I never change my oil in any of my vehicles and never have problems. I also run 20-50, well I actually just add oil every couple of months :)
What subject do you want me to cover next time?
I'm at 125,000 miles on my 2018 Rebel 5.7. The majority of those miles are highway, do I need to change my transmission fluid? There seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there.
@@davidhaywood9794 I would! ZF (not chrysler) recomends at around 70K mi to change fluid and pan/filter...I've done it myself about 3 times for a few of my "business use" Rams...The fluid will start to break down around 170,000 miles. The tranny starts to chatter/bump around 3-4 gear...fluid changed, it disappeared (but damage might have been done for waiting). Chrysler is only interested in the tranny getting past the 100K Power train warranty
@@davidhaywood9794 agreed, I generally say about every 100k miles is a good interval. I know a lot of people have asked for a ZF trans service video, that will probably be forthcoming. 👍
Curious on you take of Oils.(Ram 1500 4th gen) I use Penn ultra platinum with MO-339 filter New til 100k miles then switch to Penns ultra platinum high mileage will a moly additive (with a catch can). Low miles with less idling I change around 7500k and change at 5000k-7000k after I go over 100K on the Odometer. People on the forums are recommending Redline 5w-30 and say the (lifter i assume) tick disapears.
@@ReignitedAuto that would be great if you did a video.
The most complete video about this subject I've seen so far!!! congratulations! and thank you
Ram should fix it not the customer
🤣
Lol a wear and tear item fca should fix huh?
I’ve Been a mechanic for more then 50 years, I drove every brand in North America, I had a business to repair general light and heavy duty, I most be the luckiest SOB,,,,I have close then 6 million kilometers on all my dodges, my business in the oil fields as a natural gas mechanic for more then 20 years,at times I owned 12 service trucks and 3 personnel vehicles all Mopars,,,,never had a major failure….i had a 2014 sport that was left running for more then 36 hrs!!!! I forgot to shut it down….I shut down and let it cool down and change the oil and filter…..it’s been over a year now and still runs good. So yeah Hemi (tick)and all kind of failures……I never had any of the problems…..all my gas jobs and diesels never ever gave me problems…I own an eco diesel 2016, this one pulled 12500lbs across Canada 3500kms…this one too run 100%….I had to replace the alternator on that one…..that is it….all the problems I heard….they are stranger to me……anyways….I service and religiously do all the maintenance needed and most time before 5000milles…all fluids and power train are checked and serviced…I most be the luckiest SOB….or I know what these vehicles needed…
Change that synthetic oil every 4500 miles and pray.
3000 miles full synthetic
@@victorpecina7137Or every time you fill gas.
5000 full synthetic
I want to thank you for this video and all the information in it. Without getting into ALL the details, you saved me a shit-ton of money. I had a shop quote me $13k to replace the engine, and $9k to do the cam and lifters for a dead lifter and cylinder 8 misfire, the furthest one from the oil pump. They WOULD NOT put a Hellcat oil pump on my 2014 RAM Sport. I called four shops altogether, and they all quoted right at 5. I wont get into that whole fiasco, but I payed them $600 in labor done to fuck off, and had it towed to a different shop that got it done plus spark plugs and the Hellcat oil pump for a little over $5k. That shop hadn't heard of the Hellcat oil pump swap, and at least two of their mechanics are going to be doing this to their trucks. They told me they do a lot of these trucks and they're used to seeing high teens for oil pressure. Mine was idling at 39psi fully warmed up and sitting yesterday when I picked it up, and getting over 80psi when accelerating hard. This morning from a cold start, I was seeing 59 at an idle and 73 at a cruise. This thing runs like a pissed off rhino now. Just to see what it would do, I stomped on it when I picked it up and got it to fishtail a bit on dry slick pavement. Son, I am impress. Major thanks to you, I'll be spreading the word about the oil pump. Shop says I should be good to go for another hundred thousand. Liked and subbed, I'm sharing your video everywhere I can.
Unfortunately it's just not a oil pressure problem. The lifters will also twist sideways and kill the cam too. It's a design problem.
2915 ram 1500 had it 4 months told I had the Hemi tic turned out bad motor and now having to come up with $8000.00 for a Jasper Engine, turns out it was the cam and the motor went to hell!!! $22000 at the dealership for a new engine will never own another one!! Oil pressure at idle would only be 13psi and 35psi at 3000 rpm, so everything your saying is right on!!
If you want to see the very latest video I have on this subject you can check it out here! ua-cam.com/video/wpl8aZiPK0E/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for this video, I have a 2012 Charger Rt and I just reached 99k miles and it just now came up I had a P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire and changed spark plugs and everything, had springs and everything looked at but they couldn’t think of anything but to change the camshaft and lifters so now I’m going to have to save up and get it replaced
You mentioned shorty headers. Are there any that are easier to install than others? I've read a few reviews but who really knows better than a tech that does it for a living! Thanks for all the great info!!
How much of these issues do you really think is from poor maintenance? Just wondering.
My 300c hemi 5.7 2014 it's has a chirping sound. Ever couple sec it will chirp, mechanic said even if I fix lifters 6months later the bottom will go bad. What should I do
@ROBJUDAH ABIR that's someone who's trying to cover themselves if something happens down the line. There is potential for something like that to happen if enough metal has gone through the engine, but it really comes down to how badly the camshaft is damaged. If it's caught early enough there's no problem at all just replacing the cam/lifters.
THERE IT IS! Pretty confident mine is just the exhaust. I thought the noise was coming from too low under the truck to be lifter noise. I'm still not sure its even as high as the manifold. Great video.
Man, mopar needs to go back to the drawing board.
Chrysler was always the weird cousin that nobody wanted around. Constantly trying to keep up with Chevy and ford . Chevy sold the coyote engine to Ford and Chrysler has always had to be different. When drag racing became a sport Chrysler had a front oil sump that needed to be changed and the whole world of racing jumped on the Chevy bandwagon and Chrysler got pushed back to always in third place.
Thank you so much for your time. Because I was wondering what this so called. HEMI "tick" was. Because I was thinking of buying a used State Patrol Charger. Now I know what to look for. And why they're probably getting rid of it.
STILL NO ANSWER.👎
Looking at buying a used 2006 RAM 1500. This is a really great explanation of all the issues. Superbly well done. Thanks a million!!!
Just don't buy a Hemi
2017 heavy duty tradesman 6.4 Hemi ,big truck but I'm starting to love it more than my Chevy, never thought I'd say that but now I know why all the ranch people buy The Ram product.
It's actually really surprising how much more power/torque the 6.4 truck engine has than the 5.7, it completely changes the driving experience. 👍
Good info! Mine ticks from the cold start , also i haven’t seen any running issues or anything like that or codes thrown up. It’s been ticking for almost 3 years and no real changes. But that may explain the exhaust smell
I’ve had eight Hemis, six 5.7s and two 6.4s. Never had any issue. We put at least 150k on the first seven, at 101 on my current ram.
Quality shortie headers like JBA solves the exhaust leak issue. Performance gains are small but you’ll never have a leak again.
Trucks do it more because the exhaust isn’t supported as well.
Great...Great video and explanation. Finally an excellent explanation regarding the exhaust tick. Now I know exactly what I have and why I have the problem. Thanks very much
Appreciate you watching! 👍
Great presentation! Thank you. I’m skipping this headache altogether. No ram tick talk adventure for me, thank you.
I recently bought a 2010 Ram, 5.7. Has 158K on it. I would occasionally hear a slight tick when starting it, sometimes. A local shop took the valve covers off, looked inside, all looks good. I now use Royal Purple HMX 5w20 oil, and just a touch of zinc additive for extra protection
For header removal/installation, do you just removed the head? Those bolts on my Trackhawk look like a major PIA to torque correctly with head installed. Thinking of installing aluminum long tubes.
As crazy as it might sound, yes I prefer to just remove the heads to get the headers off on the jeeps, it's actually easier. That being said, I've never tried to reinstall them with long tubes bolted to them.
This is great information! I am thinking of getting a 2018 2500 6.4 mega cab and this info helps me better understand the engine I will be getting into!
Hi there, Big fan. so, what engine oil do you recommend for hemi trucks (1500 4x4)?
Great Great video. Very informative.
My thought with the trucks having the exhaust manifold bolts breaking more then any other.
There is no exhaust hangers or supports for the heavy Y PIPE, CATS, and MANIFOLDS other then the manifold bolts. The first hanger or support is at the muffler. All the flex in all the exhaust piping that is supported by the manifold bolts. And the trucks have a longer y pipe to them rather then the cars with a very small y pipe.
Thanks for this video, I was having the problem with the exhaust manifolds bolts. Took it to the dealer today they found 4 broken bolts on both manifolds, they are going to replace all the bolts and put in new gaskets at no cost to me, I have a 2017 1500 big have rn with only 35500 on. So get them checked.
My 2015 challenger has a tick that it only makes when the car is in gear (manual) that increases under acceleration, does not go away after warm up but does not do it at all in neutral. What could it be?
Nice video
I have a tick. 2010 Ram 1500 5.7l. It's fairly loud. A constant tick that ticks about 2 or 3 times each second. Only seem to hear it while it's coasting, moving while not on the gas. I'm gonna try out these diagnostic steps and try to narrow it down.
Since watching this video I started monitoring my oil pressure gauge. When I had 10W-30 oil in my Hemi, my idling oil psi was 32. After switching to 5W-20 oil, my idling psi dropped to 27.
Thicker oil if you're driving it hard and some lucas every oil change will help keep the valve train lubed up enough to get proper oil. Lucas sticks to the parts and keeps them lubed when it's idling or when it's cold until the proper lubrication can occur. A customer of mine has a 17 hemi ram with 120,000 miles on it, that idles the truck for hours at a time. It started developing a soft tick with horrible spark knock(misfire) under light acceleration. Under moderate to hard acceleration, the noise goes away and it runs fine. The shop he had it at replaced coil packs and told him it's an internal engine issue and he needs a new engine. I'm gonna instruct him a thicker 10w 30 oil with lucas on next oil change, see if anything changes.
@@ATSNorthernMI I switched to Amsoil Signature Series best oil there is, I wouldn’t wanna add any additives to it and change its design. I’m gonna replace oil pump with a high volume. I would definitely consider switching to 5W-30 oil. That just might be the perfect oil for a Hemi.
Thank you for this video you just saved me so much time and effort diagnosing my engine faults. I have a compound "tick" that was headers and lifters.
Me too. What did you do for the repairs? I'm thinking of having the dealership do the work.
I checked my heat shields and sure enough, the rear stud of the passenger side manifold has snapped. Could an exhaust leak caused by this trigger P0420/P0430 catalytic converter efficiency codes or am I looking at two different issues?
It is possible that an exhaust leak could trigger those codes, but if they are still present after you fix the exhaust leaks I'd be replacing the oxygen sensors- they are far and away the most common cause of catalyst efficiency codes. 👍
great video man! just bought a 2019 ram 5.7 with 35k miles. going to start using Pennzoil ultra platinum. and change every 5k miles.
What a great informative video. I learned more in 20 mins than in 2 years working at a Dodge dealer.
I have heard that they have recently revised the exhaust manifold so that it cracks before the bolts break. At least you don’t have to extract a broken bolt from the head. I guess that’s an improvement.
Ha, yes that's true, the 2019+ trucks Crack the manifolds right down the center 🫣
Ok so question. I have a tick. It started while I had cruise control on at 60mph. Very noticeable difference from any sound it normally produces. Took everything off including the head down to the engine block (on passenger side). All lifters looked great, no galling or anything outside of normal wear, which was barely any, no play at all and really they look and feel great. All intake/exhaust rods were in perfect condition. When I drained the oil, no metal shavings at all. I checked the header bolts (long tubes) and they're all good and there's no exhaust leaks. Checked rocker arms, springs and bolts all good too. So I just put it all back together, refilled the oil and coolant and started her up. Still making the ticking noise on passenger side. No codes being thrown, no misfires, car still runs and shifts like normal. Sound does increase with RPM (not the volume just the speed). I'm just so confused because I inspected every single physical part (that I know of) that could be making the noise and everything looks great. Any ideas on what it might be? The noise is awful haha but she runs like normal no problems. Here's a list of everything done to the car (2018 Chrysler 300s 5.7 hemi). JLT CAI, ported throttle body, ported 6.4 intake manifold with activated runners, ported heads, Comp Cam custom grind cam, upgraded springs and rods, hellcat lifters, long tube headers, Magnaflow exhaust, 3.09 limited slip rear diff, hellcat wheels and wider tires.
Thanks for the great video I hear a lot of guys talking about switching to 5W-30 and was just wondering your thoughts on this topic. For example I watched a video and the producer said the main reason for 5W-20 is for better gas mileage, and that 5 W 30 provides better protection