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I change the fuel pump and it's still doing the same thing Pumping gas from the rear tank to the front tank

Man, that was just the video I need to see. Thanks!

Same problem with 2 napa $120 icps

There is a place in Idaho where i sent my ABS Module they upgraded everything and it has worked great, it has been a year no issues !

Which bulb is for the nightlight?

So the best thing to do to avoid any and all Of this is a p7100 swap right? With a p pump swap you could pretty Much remove the ECM from the side of the motor and toss it ya? Naa I’m sure there’s a reason or two to leave it bolted on and functioning for the grid heater, and fuel lift lift pump. I’ve heard that with the fass pumps, having them running while cranking can cause a long crank issue. Something to do with the pressure being to high for the puntle inside the vp44 or something to open? That the fix is to basically make it so that the fass doesn’t run during crank key position and only runs in the run position. A fass can be wired all sorts of different ways but I think the directions for a second gen has you using the stock oe plug for the junky Carter lift pump, bumping the engine over will have it run a prime cycle for 30 Secs or what ever. And had it run while cranking. Which I’ve heard can cause issues with a long crank hot or cold. The vp44’s are finicky. They can be great once all the kinks are worked out, having a FASS guarantees longevity and reliability. I didn’t know about having to much pressure being bad, that’s good to know, no more than 15-20 psi, and no less than 7 at idle, I know anything less than 5 psi and damage occurs and it starts cooking itself. I think lost of the fass kits run about 16 psi consistently, and optional fuel pressure regulators can be installed and the fuel press can be adjusted if needed. I want to p pump swap on my ‘02 24v Hao 6 Speed. I’ve only got 100k miles on it, and it’s a mint perfect truck. It’s a perfect truck. I’ve started planning a p pump swap, I still need to either find a junk donor parts motor with a good p7100 core. I’d really Like to use a 215hp p7100 and not have to settle for a smaller 180. I’m not going for huge horsepower or anything, I want reliability and longevity, and bulletproofness. So either a donor motor I can take the timing case and gear, and brackets and everything off of Or use the crazy carls kit which is about $3,000. If I go that route then I want all the cool billet parts, billet tappet cover, billet front timing cae, billet front case cover with quick change access, billet pump support bracket, billet water pump, billet valve cover, billet thermostat housing, fluidampr balancer, cam gear dowell and retainer, plate. I’ve seen guys just make a small tig weld on the cam gear to be cheap lol. I’d give my left nut for one of those king speed billet oil pans. My hod those things are a work of cnc machinery art. *drool* Or….i could just use all the greasy dingy parts and clean them in the shops washer machine and paint them nicely and use the factory OE parts for the swap from a donor motor. That would the cheapest. Find a donor 12v and take the timing gear case, injection pump gear, p7100 pump, support bracket, oil feed line, and the oil feed line snubber valve thingie, and the grid heater, the reason for that is I wanna be able to run my banks monster ram and on a 24v p pump setup with the custom lines you can keep the backs monster ram, you just gotta raise it up with a grid heater delete space or another heater with the center knocked out and get longer studs or bolts. I know p7100s are getting harder and harder to find in good useable core buildable condition, especially the 215 pumps, all the big race diesel guys have gobbled them up over the years. And Bosch ain’t making new ones, they haven’t for years. Although a Chinese company has knocked off the Bosch p7100 pump design and castings. Which heck ya! I’ll run one lol. If I can’t find a p7100 I’d consider swaping in a rotary VE pump. They are just as reliable, and can support up to 600 hp easily worth the right mods and fueling! Everyone raves over the p pumps higher pressures and garden hose fueling capacity. The VE rotary pumps can be easily made to support 400-500hp and that’s range in aiming for, I’m not going to 1000+ honor the highest hp swaped 24v secound gen. I want reliability, efficiency, good mpg and the ability to turn some screws and do what ever I want with out being limited or stuck by mechanical Limitations, emissions, or computers or modules, or programming constraints! I want all mechanical! I even want the manual pull cable fuel shut off! lol no wires or electronics! Nuke proof!

I have a 2013 f250. Went in for a blower motor replacement. That's done,but now. Won't crank,heads lights come on,blower motor comes on(witch both of those are turned off). The computer screen on the dash and middle console do not come on. Battery's check good,everything is clean. Any idea what is going on?

My 7.3 will just lose all power when I’m driving if I hit a bump or something and loses power to the pedal and when I let off and press it again it’s fine sometimes the whole truck will shut off and I checked that connector and their are some wires that are rubbing but nothing exposed and I can’t figure what else it could be

Thanks for the video! I have a new reman 7.3 in my truck, and it will do a long crank cold, and even sometimes after its been running for short distances. I can tell from my monitor that reads ICP that it takes a minute for ICP to get up to 500 when it long cranks. It always starts once it gets to 500ICP.

Would that location be in the back for a 18 f250 too

Great video there boss!! What brand of belt and what brand of tensioner do you prefer for the utmost durability and longevity? Thank you and please keep up the great work. 😎👍

My truck would randomly start running rough and lose almost all power. Pull over turn it off and back on and it runs like nothing happened. I checked this plug and the green wire has rubbed through a TINY bit but no other wires. It literally only does this like once a month. Could this be enough to cause my problem? Could it simply be taped up?

My truck would randomly start running rough and lose almost all power. Pull over turn it off and back on and it runs like nothing happened. I checked this plug and the green wire has rubbed through a TINY bit but no other wires. It literally only does this like once a month. Could this be enough to cause my problem? Could it simply be taped up?

This gave me the confidence to do this my self. Thank you for a great video sir!

I just lost reverse so I will pull the pan and reverse servo and check that band. 👍

Long Winded

You mean the plastic guilds were missing? Can't believe that, Ford power stroke is the best😅😅😅😅

I cannot find that video lol looking for the one for a 95

Wish I could've seen you hook up the wire. Mine died yesterday and now won't start either.

my 02 cummins failed to start one day (crank no start) wait to start light didn't come on but lift pump was running turns out the 10 amp fuse in the cab fuse box fell out believe number 9 slot anyway put a 10 amp fuse in fired rightt up

The picture is dumb but the info in the video was done well

Left cover you mean

Great tip! Would cause a ton of odd / intermittent issues with these engines. Glad I found your video. Have you ever experienced an issue when cruising highway speeds, it is like the torque converter locks and unlocks intermittently depending on speed/rpm? Wasn't sure if it was my TCC or overdrive engaging and disengaging.

Thanks for this video, it helped me tremendously

I would like to see the passenger side fresh air motor replaced 11:23

hello, I am repairing a 610 like this one, I live in FRANCE, I cannot find parts for the clutch, do you have an address for the commanders, your posts are a little dated, do you know where I can find a technical manual for the BOB ?? thank you again for your posts everyone, they help me a lot, merci encore 🙏🙏🙏

I have a '97 that is not enabling the IDM power. Is that anything but a blown PCM?

I went round and round with hpop. '97. Did an expensive upgrade replacement, only to find that I made a measurement error early on. I hooked up a button to the starter solenoid so I could crank from the engine front. But this didn't energise the hp regulator, which just let oil bypass with zero pressure built. Fine. Nice new hpop building 3000psi. Next thing reveals no enable signal to the IDM, hence zero injectors firing. I checked many basic things in the wiring, but have now ordered a new PCM. Does anyone know anything that would keep a good PCM from enabling the IDM?

Working on my 73 Continental now. Replacing the switch as well. Believe it or not brake lights are wired through the switch as well and should be a check point.

I have a 2008 ram 6.7 cummins, and my fan seems to stay on some days during the whole drive, meanwhile the coolant temp doesnt even reach 200 degrees. But a night like tonight, it didnt seem to fully engage at all, and the coolant temp once again never reached 200. Everything seems normal, but that fan clutch seems to have a mind of its own. My question is, is this a clutch issue or an ecm issue? The clutch when the engine is not running will spin with resistance.

Appreciate the video!

Mine was a much simpler fix, but one comment you made solved my 3 day gremlin chasing job. Close the door. Door open, red + terminal is dead. Door closed, terminal is hot. Wtf. 2019 F350 trailer plug, battery charging terminal not working. (Or so I thought) Thank you!

Would this cause the truck not to start?

You can pull out a lot of fluid with your hand pump. Already have the parts just need to get it done. Messy but not a difficult job just plug and play and drive. Use ATF 4 or better synthetic fluid. Have used ATF 4 all the time. Thanks for the video.

Great vid... whats that hose called behind the compressor?.. my line freezes and no cold air is blowing. Mechanic said the value is stuck on that line..

I find you videos very helpful. My 79 Town Coupe won't turn off. Is this a problem with the key cylinder?

Wonder if this same dude is on the 2015 250 . My battery won't charge either

If my 04 explorer drives in 4 LO, but won’t move in 2 wheel drive… does that mean it’s trashed?

Video quality is so so and duration may be a bit long, but the explanation for those that like to understand the totality of the inspection and data, its very useful! I have this same issue and will be leveraging this test sequence to investigate!

I have 2004 ,done air test on ISP sensor and can hear air comming out some where in the oil rail, after replacing nipple cup O rings its still leaking air.. where else can it leak in that area?

Hey if I parked my 2005 6.0 on an incline kinda nose down would that make it think it’s got no oil and a crank no start?? Thanks

Stumbled on this again this evening, and got to thinking. I've seen that rig somewhere before. I bet Clint on Custom Works channel could tell you what it is. Surely he's run into it. Dawned on me, I saw someone pushing it several years back.

Very big help thank you

Nice going on the video description appreciate it

This was amazing! Thank yo so much for posting. Saved me the $300 Dodge wanted to charge. I have a 2003 2500 and it is exactly the same as your 2004 1/2. You made it easy and painless. And thanks for the tip on the wire harness clip!

Thanks great tutorial

Dude that shit was so easy to see lol good video man

Hi, just wanted to share... battery voltage looks fairly low... I've seen a good many times... 2 strong batteries and THROUGH ground check fix this exact issue... ! I know it seems odd... but, simple and something to try. Please lmk if this happens to work for you.

My Speedometer and Odometer is not working on my 1978 Lincoln Continental Towncar. Thinking it somehow came unhooked. Plan to do this to figure out what is going on.

appreciate this vid. have a 01 F550 at work with exact same issue.had already tested voltage at connector checked the harness at valve cover for chafing. ended up being a lazy aftermarket icp just as you described. mine was a 2 week old garbage carquest. get what ya pay for.