Good video! A couple things that I have found after doing my own string alignments: Use 1" EMT conduit instead of the PVC. If the jack stands are placed in a different spot front or rear, there will be different flex, and that can alter the actual distance between the slots in the PVC. We are talking very small differences, but I can hold my measuring to .25 mm. I do my alignments outside, if the sun is beating on the front tubing but not the rear, with PVC, this could cause a difference between the slots. PVC expands and contracts at a rate much higher than steel. Even if this wouldn't be an issue for you, steel EMT would be much more stable and durable. Doing string alignments is all about eliminating variables. Use the thinnest hacksaw blade you can find and cut the slot by hand for best precision. To hold the steering wheel, you can get a steering wheel holder for alignments on Amazon. Looks like a little guy with a red head. Works great and it's a lot easier to use. I also use 50 lb test, .36mm diameter braided deep sea fishing line in bright yellow, it is very user friendly, doesn't knot up and tangle, yet it is easy to tie knots. It is highly visible so you don't bump it. And it holds a nice taught line with the weight without stretching. Some manufacturers measure toe in as a positive # so be aware what your manufacturer is actually stating. Here's a great toe conversion calculator: www.1728.org/toe-out.htm
No... Have seen old guys do Stringing race cars with the car on a flat surface ( on a tar surface). Trolly Jack is what they use to jack the car up to allow adjustments
The context about camber before toe at around the 31:00 mark actually goes for the front too. Camber (and front caster if adjustable) should always be done be done before toe at all 4 corners. Virtually every car out there will experience some degree of toe change when camber (and / or caster) is adjusted and thus toe should ALWAYS be the last thing you adjust and never the first (unless that is the only thing you are going to be making adjustments to. Even with camber plate adjustment, many cars will experience a noticeable toe change because its a factor of knuckle / upright geometry and NOTHING to do with the chassis suspension pickup points.
A few years ago I thought of using this method and used a pair of slotted wood battens for the string end supports, this method is by far the most accurate way to make wheel alignment, you did an excellent job of showing how to set the system up, hope not to many people spotted the little mistake you made when cutting the second set of slots in the wrong side of the pipe :)
I've used both string aligning on my Camaro because it sits too low for me to try any other method but I used solid metal bars on each front wheel on my truck to set total toe. Technically you are correct but I think the guy is referring to the fact that doing the alignment by string method the way in which you measure it is backwards. If you were using bars on the wheels doing total toe measurement with 2 tape measures and say you were setting toe in then moral of the story is less you want a smaller measurement on the front tape measure vs the rear tape measure. But when your doing string alignments and setting toe in the number on the front edge of the rim on your measuring stick gets larger and the rear gets smaller because as the tires toe in they pull away from the string on the front since the string stays stationary that is set square and the rear of the tire or rim gets closer to the string. It's hard to explain but hopefully it makes sense.
To me it don't matter because I know what he's talking about I just think a video is needed for a lot of ppl and to me it is what it is thank you tho u are correct 💯
Great explanation. Instead of taping and measuring threads on the tie rods, I think it’s easier to just make one full turn of the adjuster and then measure the change at the wheels. You only have to do it once per car and you get a precise measurement of the amount of toe in/out for each turn. Also, knowing that value, you can make quick toe adjustments at the track without having to restring.
First, Great instructional guys. After dealing with incompetent shops in my area that literally can't align your car unless it's 100% stock. I decided to do this my self. Glad I did, can confirm best alignment I've ever had on my Mazda 3. One note for people like me with OCD, you can help compensate for human error during setup by making the distance between your bars significantly longer than the length of the car, if you have the room. Due to the relative length from the pivot points when making adjustments this let's you be more precise in twords the vehicle. Hopefully that made sense lo
This doesn't really help because the measure points are still based on wheelbase and the accuracy of your ruler+naked eye. The wheelbase of the car is long enough so that the lateral movement of the front and rear bars can be manipulated precise enough with the dexterity of your hand. I.e. the change to the angle of the string is small enough to be precise.
Thank you, my dad's 82 just had his MOT, they replaced his track rods but never did the alignment. Literally i confronted them, they told me they NEVER bothered, Disgusting i told him to report them to VOSA. I used to be a mechanic, i left to study Automotive Engineer. I didn't do the repairs because i was trained on a machine and didn't have the proper kit. I've never seen tracking done like this. It's makes sense your recreating the track bars, I'm going to sort it out for him. You can always learn a new way/trick. Thank you so much.
Probably shop incompetence, typical when you have a "pro" do it. I recently had an alignment done on our old van and sure enough, the wheel is cocked at 11:30
I did alignment work for 25 years, I test drove everything, I made every effort to ensure my customers never complained of pulling, worn tires, or crooked steering wheels. Parking lot would be jam packed from open to close. Been 20 years since retirement, and customers still call for me.
Hit up a "dollar store" and grab 8 cheap smooth thin cutting boards. Stack 2 of them, and stick them under each tire. Almost totally removes stiction when you're making adjustments. Sure, you could get fancy bearing plates - but then you wouldn't be watching a DIY vid! :)
I had to replace both rear trailing arm bushings on my 2003 Volvo S40. I didn't want to spend any extra on alignment. Followed this method carefully. I am amazed at the results. Car now tracks as it should. Only minor downside is adjusting the alignment without a lift can be time-consuming, as you may need to measure, jack up, adjust, lower, settle suspension and then measure again, several times!
Thanks for your video. I’m a low budget UA-cam mechanic that depends on people like you.Makes total sense coming from a construction background. We’ll explained. Much love bro
Thank you for the great effort on explaining this wheel alignment method, I do my car using this method of the fishing line around the car for toe adjustment and the angle finder for the front camber adjustment with camber bolts on the struts. Finding a perfect level ground is the challenge when one is doing this at home
Might be worth mentioning to release the rubber gator/boot clips on the tie rods when rotating as the twist associated will likely shorten their life. But a great instructional, thanks!
Boy, I've watch A LOT of videos about toe lately and, after finally *getting it*, can't get over how many 'experts' and even expensive tools out there that aren't taking into account the possibility that one wheel's toe may be very different than the one opposite it. Those methods and tools just assume to measure the total distance between both tires and split that difference as the target. Sigh.🙄 Good job with the vid, and thanks for redeeming my faith in humanity.
Excellent video. I did the alignement on my oldtimer lotus esprit using this method years ago, but this is the first video that explains things so clear. Thanks
When you set the string line up for the front, you have to measure from the CENTRE of the wheel (fore and aft), where you measured it, 3-4 inches fwd of the centre, you are setting the zero to any error that is already in place.
when you are spelling center the e goes before the r. also fully spell forward. dont use fwd because that means "front wheel drive" since where talking about an automotive topic. you're spelling things wrong and making it confusing to read.
Finally a video that mentions the reference box needed to determine the body to wheel relationship. I see the string methods often use the body wheel wells to measure from, assuming the body can guide what straight really is, so as to not create a crab walk.
This is one of the best tutorial videos on the art of aligning the wheels on the car. Best of all, you don't need fancy equipment to do it either, just simple PVC pipes, strings, and angle finder from HomeDepot and the rest of the tools most people would already have it. Best of all, this method works even for a high precision race car like the VW R36, it will work for every cars, with the exception of the actual mechanisms to make the adjustments on the actual camber and toe in in each model. I had always had my cars aligned at the dealer because they have the factory specs for camber and toe in but I will likely use the procedure outlined here to check and adjust if necessary in the future. I could even use the method to check if the dealer actually did their job correctly on my cars. Great video and very well done!
Thank You! This helps. My son and I truly need the means to get things back squared away on our own. We are always wrenching and 'set the toe and let it go' is NOT for us. Attention to Detail matters!!
I've been seeing race mechanics do this kind of work at Sepang circuit where I work for decades and I'm always curious how this string alignment work. Finally you've answer all my questions. Tq
Thank you. A thorough, concise and totally professional tutorial for us DYI'ers. You've taught me so much with your channel, especially with my son's Volvo, his first car. We watch the videos together and proceed with confidence after FCP Euro's pro tutorials.
when doing camber, try not to use the tyre as it bulges at the bottom, maybe 60psi would help negate this error, but get a flat bar the correct rim length for the DIYers
Thank you so much! I think I will try doing this on my car. Took it to alignment to a shop and they left the wheel crooked, said they couldn't get it straight. (???) Think they just took my money and didn't actually touch the car. This is why I hate taking my car to a shop, you never know what has actually been done to it. Better do it myself.
The wheel usually gets crooked because they make an adjustment, then don't bother checking the wheel to see if it moved. They could absolutely get it straight, just too lazy.
This is a very comprehensive, well done description of the toe alignment process. I would, however, always do the camber adjustment first, as it will effect the toe. I know this is mentioned in the video, but should be stressed more highly, even to 5he point of showing the camber adjustment first. Thanks for a great video.
I agree that it's more accurate than shop alignment, much cheaper in the long run too, and you can do whatever you want, no risk of someone disagreeing with your decisions etc.
This is the kind of video I've been looking for. Great explanation! I'm going to try this on my car because it desperately needs it. You did an amazing job teaching how to do this! Thank you!
Wow, I wish you could do every car repair video I ever watch. Excellent explanation, even stopped to clear up any question people might have of every detail. Thanks a lot!
Very useful video! My car is trailing to the left for some time now, and I was hesitating to take a look at the suspension myself because I would have to align it afterwards. I'll save this guide for later use!
Awesome video guys! Very well spoken. Awesome detail and guidance throughout the video. I really don't have any suggestions for improvement. You covered the items needed and method to make the tooling needed for the process. Explained the process well. Bravo guys! Well done!
Aren't you getting your negative and positive toe mixed up. Negative toe = toe out and positive toe = toe in. Apart from that technicality great instructional video
Thanks so much for making this elaborate video. You can download an app on your phone to measure angle. So that means you can possibly measure the camber for free!
Awesome. I do all my own work to my car and have just eyeballing it enough to drive it somewhere. Almost lost me for the reasoning on the front with the tierod position at “about 60 to 70%” compared to the outside of the wheel
6 місяців тому+1
Well, I dont have a 964 or 944 anymore. Only an American and Japanese car, i guess i dont have to worry about my alignment anymore since it only applies to Euro cars apparently 😊 On a serious note, good general advice for the DIYer :)
This is definitely one that is worth a second watch to help better understand or catch some of the finite details Nate goes over. Hopefully you know more now than before watching it though!
CJ is correct. Understanding this is a string alignment and understanding the type of rear suspension (camber/toe affects each other) that being said even in this type of alignment one should correct rear camber then toe...then reset strings to rim or hub because camber adjustment can affect hub distance (in or out). Then same with front. I also wonder if European definitions of negative or positive toe is different from US definitions. I was always taught and read (U.S.) that negative toe is toe out and positive is toe in.
Great video on alignment! I to am a suspension mechanic (old school) and started in the late 70's. To be honest I've never been in the racing type of alignment and like your explanation of different angle adjustments for different types of racing, suspensions and tires. One thing I noticed about almost all alignment videos is that there is very little talk about SAI (KPI for us old timers) and Scrub Radius. One easy visual way to see it is a beginner DYI mechanic will tend to mount deep dish or heavily outer off set rims (tires sticking way out of fenders) but the pro mechanics keep more of a stock look meaning wheel assembly stays tucked in more under supervision and bearing load. Basically that's Scrub Radius as you know. Your thoughts or do you feel it's worth making a video on subject. Aloha Zac
Make sure the PVC pipes are parallel to each other, too. Since you cut slots in them, each slot needs to be the same distance apart front to rear. If not, even though your strings side to side are the same measurement front to rear, it won't be square if the front and rear PVC pipes aren't parallel. I ran into this with my first alignment I did. I later had to go back and take measurements of everything all around the car to make it square. This took some time, but after that, all you need to know is the track width difference front to rear and one side doesn't even need to match the other which makes for a much quicker alignment next time.
@@bernardwarr4187 I did some more checks and they would have to be pretty far out from each other. You'd be able to tell by eye. This method should get you pretty close. At least within 1/16". The main thing is use the same measurements each time so you're at least consistent
Can I just check that you set the front wheels to have a toe in, I’m confused by the fact that you started saying toe out once you were adjusting it…? Really great video, thanks for the tutorial 👍
People are talking about various hacks for making turning steering effortless. Here’s what I did, albeit for replacing steering fluid, but for any purpose this works: Get some bubble-wrap, I happen to have the insulation stuff that’s particularly useful as it has both sides the same, foil-covered and flat. Just make sure the smooth sides are together, otherwise. I cut two pieces for each side, basically about the diameter of the tyre or wheel say, and square ish. You need a pair for each side. Ordinary grease, smear one side only cos it’s easier, of the mating faces, plop the two pieces together with the grease sandwiched, on the ground, where the front wheels can be rolled over it. NOTE…I have a front wheel drive car, and a small slope on my drive, so I drove the car forward of where I wanted it and let it roll back, then applied the handbrake only, to stop the car in position, with the front tyres as close to the middle of the greased bubble wrap squares as possible. I then shoved a couple of bricks hard under the rear wheels, because only the handbrake and rear wheels are holding the car locked in position now. That’s it. The steering will turn free as a bird. It meant for power steering fluid replacement, I could easily spin the wheels fully to lock right and left as the fluid gurgled through, but I will now be digging out this almost-free couple of devices, to help with the alignment. I swear, I expected the bubbles to pop, not a single one did. Weird, no?! Thanks for this vid, take care all.
Excellent video, however, your description of positive/negative toe at 3:43 is backwards. I'm an ASE-certified alignment tech for over 30 years and I was once a chassis engineer for Honda. Positive toe is "toe-in" (fronts of tires pointed toward each other). Negative toe is "toe-out". Your spec sheet you showed even confirmed it which gave a positive toe spec (most factory cars have positive toe-in specified for front tires). Your descriptions during the video seemed to indicate you knew which way your alignment angles needed to be regardless of how you defined it earlier in the video. Otherwise, outstanding how-to video. PS: love the ratchet strap technique for centering steering wheel, I will use that ;)
So this is the 3rd video I've watched for a string alignment, and this one is by far the best. The only question I have for all the alignment videos.... Don't all of the measurements being accurate depend on your eyes reading from the exact same angle every time? That was a problem I was having. The angle I was looking at the tape for the front of the front tire had to be the exact same for the rear of the front tire. In other words, where my eyes were looking at the tape had to be exactly the same every time, front and back of the wheel. Go under and make the adjustments, then come back and somehow make sure I was looking at the tape exactly as I did the first time, or my measurements would be different, wouldn't they?
Angle of reading on a 2cm rule is barely going to affect your overall number. Maybe 1/10th of a MM difference. We can call this margin of error, and still be well within spec.
At 17:20 around that time stamp you basically said the wheels on the front are toe out by 3 degrees but if the back portion of the front wheel is longer than the front that would mean that what you meant to say was it’s toed in 😊 thanks for the refresher I’ll just do what I normally would do and not mix myself up any longer on this Friday lol
If the back of the wheel is further from the string, then it's set more in to the car. If the front is closer to the string, then it's set OUT from the car. It's toed out.
Quite a lot of work and materials. I do it using 2x4 or 2x3 wood. Mark the front and back using tire threads, adjust, move the car backwards and forward then measure again until the numbers match.
Several areas I like to address... 1. Lifting your car up and not rolling it afterward will affect the accuracy of your alignment. 2. This methodology, measuring center hubs, might not work for modified vehicles where the rear end is wider than the front. Now, going old school. For modified vehicles and antique cars. Using the same methodology, 4 jack stands and a string. Set you jack stands front and back, set your string front to back, center of the wheel, measure the distance (here is the difference), front and back of the rear tire from the string, makingsureitsthe exact same measure front and back of the rear tire. (When you do this, you establish a true track from your rear end.) Once this is done, then measure the back and front portion of the front tire to set your toe.
Since he's using the PVC pipe to hold the same distance between the strings It won't matter if the track width is different at the back. You're still going to end up with parallel strings when you measure the distance and it's equal on both sides.
Nice video. One issue I have is the camber measurement you suggest. The bottom of the tire will squish out when loaded. I have always used the straight edge forward or backward from the wheel centerline.
So you have the front bar in position, so the strings are equal distance from the front wheels. Then, you move the rear bar to do the same for the rear wheels. You just changed the front to unequal distances!
They "verified" it in the video, although it is not shown. You can essentially run up and down the car a couple times to ensure the string remains centered front-back.
@o0Guns0o you're right. It takes a little running back and forth. Now if I only had a lift. But, no luck, so I calculate the required turns based on thread pitch and crank the wheel to get access to make adjustments.
So after you paralleld the rear bar you have now thrown the front bar out of parallel. Someone watching this and doest know the first thing about geometry will be messed up and or they will be adjusting off of incorrectly set parallel strings
They "verified" it in the video, although it is not shown. You can essentially run up and down the car a couple times to ensure the string remains centered front-back.
Hi to time consuming, if l am at a race l just run the string Around the car get r/h towing dead strait and adjust the left front with about a 2 mill tow in and away we go ,cheers les from Adelaide south Australia
if you know the track width of your car , you really dont need those bars.. you can just tie that string to the jackstands and measure out equal distances from the center of the wheel to the line. That would also give you a boxed line set up.
You must be watching this if the shop refused to do alignment on your car or just want to try it. Back in the day, I just use the side of the wider pair of tires for a reference square all around with string loop tied on jack stands on each end. Loosen the tie rods and adjust as the steering wheel moves back to center aligned position. Camber alignment is based on incremental adjustments (rule of half) until you find a sweet middle spot to get tires vertical based on load before and after. The new tire tread wear is the judge after a couple of thousand miles. Good luck.
Conversion Chart : fcpeuro.sirv.com/Content_Marketing/Degrees_To_MM.PNG
You could just use trigonometry.
Thanks 😊
Thanks. Is the diameter the "tire diameter" or the "wheel diameter"?
@@gustavette8487 wheel
@@douggolde7582 Yes measure actual diameter of wheel rim where measured, my cars 18 inch are actually 19 inch.
Good video! A couple things that I have found after doing my own string alignments:
Use 1" EMT conduit instead of the PVC. If the jack stands are placed in a different spot front or rear, there will be different flex, and that can alter the actual distance between the slots in the PVC. We are talking very small differences, but I can hold my measuring to .25 mm. I do my alignments outside, if the sun is beating on the front tubing but not the rear, with PVC, this could cause a difference between the slots. PVC expands and contracts at a rate much higher than steel. Even if this wouldn't be an issue for you, steel EMT would be much more stable and durable. Doing string alignments is all about eliminating variables. Use the thinnest hacksaw blade you can find and cut the slot by hand for best precision.
To hold the steering wheel, you can get a steering wheel holder for alignments on Amazon. Looks like a little guy with a red head. Works great and it's a lot easier to use.
I also use 50 lb test, .36mm diameter braided deep sea fishing line in bright yellow, it is very user friendly, doesn't knot up and tangle, yet it is easy to tie knots. It is highly visible so you don't bump it. And it holds a nice taught line with the weight without stretching.
Some manufacturers measure toe in as a positive # so be aware what your manufacturer is actually stating.
Here's a great toe conversion calculator: www.1728.org/toe-out.htm
Yes u' r right.BMW have positive toe and is in not out...
I found a cheap alternative to the Amazon steering wheel holder - the wife 😂. And she gets annoyed being called an Amazon...
thanks
Smart Man and smart comment.
Very informative. Now all I need to make it easy is a full size lift in my house.
No... Have seen old guys do Stringing race cars with the car on a flat surface ( on a tar surface).
Trolly Jack is what they use to jack the car up to allow adjustments
I do it in the pits. Just have to jack up the car a tiny bit at the front to do adjustments
Video hasn't even started yet n I'm ctfu @ this comment 😆
@@gj91471 yo
😂😂😂
The context about camber before toe at around the 31:00 mark actually goes for the front too. Camber (and front caster if adjustable) should always be done be done before toe at all 4 corners. Virtually every car out there will experience some degree of toe change when camber (and / or caster) is adjusted and thus toe should ALWAYS be the last thing you adjust and never the first (unless that is the only thing you are going to be making adjustments to.
Even with camber plate adjustment, many cars will experience a noticeable toe change because its a factor of knuckle / upright geometry and NOTHING to do with the chassis suspension pickup points.
Was just about to say something similar...
Yes, this is key!
Thanks for this
A few years ago I thought of using this method and used a pair of slotted wood battens for the string end supports, this method is by far the most accurate way to make wheel alignment, you did an excellent job of showing how to set the system up, hope not to many people spotted the little mistake you made when cutting the second set of slots in the wrong side of the pipe :)
Lol I thought I was the only one who saw realised that didn't seem right
Im thinking of doing the same but rather than string would a screw not work butted up to the wheel rim? Running down both sides of the vehicle
Excellent video . Just one point, toe in is
positive and toe out is negative {3:43}
I've used both string aligning on my Camaro because it sits too low for me to try any other method but I used solid metal bars on each front wheel on my truck to set total toe. Technically you are correct but I think the guy is referring to the fact that doing the alignment by string method the way in which you measure it is backwards. If you were using bars on the wheels doing total toe measurement with 2 tape measures and say you were setting toe in then moral of the story is less you want a smaller measurement on the front tape measure vs the rear tape measure. But when your doing string alignments and setting toe in the number on the front edge of the rim on your measuring stick gets larger and the rear gets smaller because as the tires toe in they pull away from the string on the front since the string stays stationary that is set square and the rear of the tire or rim gets closer to the string. It's hard to explain but hopefully it makes sense.
@@DJWhitetailfluff Speaking in the same terms for something like this is important. In no world is toe-in "negative".
To me it don't matter because I know what he's talking about I just think a video is needed for a lot of ppl and to me it is what it is thank you tho u are correct 💯
Great explanation. Instead of taping and measuring threads on the tie rods, I think it’s easier to just make one full turn of the adjuster and then measure the change at the wheels. You only have to do it once per car and you get a precise measurement of the amount of toe in/out for each turn. Also, knowing that value, you can make quick toe adjustments at the track without having to restring.
if someone wanted to take the extra time to do that, thats a great idea!
This is a great tip for adjustments on the fly!
First, Great instructional guys. After dealing with incompetent shops in my area that literally can't align your car unless it's 100% stock. I decided to do this my self. Glad I did, can confirm best alignment I've ever had on my Mazda 3.
One note for people like me with OCD, you can help compensate for human error during setup by making the distance between your bars significantly longer than the length of the car, if you have the room. Due to the relative length from the pivot points when making adjustments this let's you be more precise in twords the vehicle. Hopefully that made sense lo
Love it, Mike!
This doesn't really help because the measure points are still based on wheelbase and the accuracy of your ruler+naked eye. The wheelbase of the car is long enough so that the lateral movement of the front and rear bars can be manipulated precise enough with the dexterity of your hand. I.e. the change to the angle of the string is small enough to be precise.
I just learned that I was doing it wrong for 20 years!!! You just made me a better tech. Thank you.
Thank you, my dad's 82 just had his MOT, they replaced his track rods but never did the alignment. Literally i confronted them, they told me they NEVER bothered, Disgusting i told him to report them to VOSA. I used to be a mechanic, i left to study Automotive Engineer. I didn't do the repairs because i was trained on a machine and didn't have the proper kit. I've never seen tracking done like this. It's makes sense your recreating the track bars, I'm going to sort it out for him. You can always learn a new way/trick. Thank you so much.
Happy to help - hopefully you get the 82 sorted!
I've been doing string alignments for years! They are way better than a shop alignment which always gives you a crooked steering wheel.
Probably shop incompetence, typical when you have a "pro" do it. I recently had an alignment done on our old van and sure enough, the wheel is cocked at 11:30
I did alignment work for 25 years, I test drove everything, I made every effort to ensure my customers never complained of pulling, worn tires, or crooked steering wheels. Parking lot would be jam packed from open to close. Been 20 years since retirement, and customers still call for me.
@@r.weaver3769 Respect you you sir.
@@devonstrickland5640 Thank you, I miss the work, but truly miss the awesome customers I had.
@@r.weaver3769 string alignments? :) Sounds like you did an actual thorough job LOL.
Hit up a "dollar store" and grab 8 cheap smooth thin cutting boards. Stack 2 of them, and stick them under each tire. Almost totally removes stiction when you're making adjustments. Sure, you could get fancy bearing plates - but then you wouldn't be watching a DIY vid! :)
Love to hear it!
I was thinking about metal plates and axle grease between the two but sounds even simpler!
@@PetuniatheGT350 me too
This is brilliant! I'm going to try it.
@@PetuniatheGT350 Overthinking it bruh
I had to replace both rear trailing arm bushings on my 2003 Volvo S40. I didn't want to spend any extra on alignment. Followed this method carefully. I am amazed at the results. Car now tracks as it should.
Only minor downside is adjusting the alignment without a lift can be time-consuming, as you may need to measure, jack up, adjust, lower, settle suspension and then measure again, several times!
If you have the option to get something the same heigh under all 4 tires, that helps!
Olfen that is what we love to hear! Now that you've done it once , it gets faster and easier each time after. Glad we were able to help
How much would the alignment costed you?
Best tutorial of string alignment on the internet. Well done!
Thanks for your video.
I’m a low budget UA-cam mechanic that depends on people like you.Makes total sense coming from a construction background.
We’ll explained.
Much love bro
Thank you for the great effort on explaining this wheel alignment method, I do my car using this method of the fishing line around the car for toe adjustment and the angle finder for the front camber adjustment with camber bolts on the struts. Finding a perfect level ground is the challenge when one is doing this at home
One of the best tutorials I have ever seen. Well done mate.
Might be worth mentioning to release the rubber gator/boot clips on the tie rods when rotating as the twist associated will likely shorten their life. But a great instructional, thanks!
great tip!
Boy, I've watch A LOT of videos about toe lately and, after finally *getting it*, can't get over how many 'experts' and even expensive tools out there that aren't taking into account the possibility that one wheel's toe may be very different than the one opposite it. Those methods and tools just assume to measure the total distance between both tires and split that difference as the target. Sigh.🙄
Good job with the vid, and thanks for redeeming my faith in humanity.
Excellent video. I did the alignement on my oldtimer lotus esprit using this method years ago, but this is the first video that explains things so clear. Thanks
When you set the string line up for the front, you have to measure from the CENTRE of the wheel (fore and aft), where you measured it, 3-4 inches fwd of the centre, you are setting the zero to any error that is already in place.
when you are spelling center the e goes before the r.
also fully spell forward. dont use fwd because that means "front wheel drive" since where talking about an automotive topic.
you're spelling things wrong and making it confusing to read.
@@darkshadowsx5949 UK/EU and many countries spell center as "centre". The e before the r is an American thing.
@@darkshadowsx5949 You used "where" when you should've used "we're"....LOL!
Finally a video that mentions the reference box needed to determine the body to wheel relationship. I see the string methods often use the body wheel wells to measure from, assuming the body can guide what straight really is, so as to not create a crab walk.
I am so proud that you uses millimeter ❤
This is one of the best tutorial videos on the art of aligning the wheels on the car. Best of all, you don't need fancy equipment to do it either, just simple PVC pipes, strings, and angle finder from HomeDepot and the rest of the tools most people would already have it. Best of all, this method works even for a high precision race car like the VW R36, it will work for every cars, with the exception of the actual mechanisms to make the adjustments on the actual camber and toe in in each model. I had always had my cars aligned at the dealer because they have the factory specs for camber and toe in but I will likely use the procedure outlined here to check and adjust if necessary in the future. I could even use the method to check if the dealer actually did their job correctly on my cars. Great video and very well done!
How is the angle finder used?
To measure camber.
Thank You! This helps. My son and I truly need the means to get things back squared away on our own. We are always wrenching and 'set the toe and let it go' is NOT for us. Attention to Detail matters!!
Let us know how it goes once you give it a try GMAN ! Takes time and some patience but hey math is math at the end of the day!
Best string alignment video I have seen on youtube, thanks
I've been seeing race mechanics do this kind of work at Sepang circuit where I work for decades and I'm always curious how this string alignment work. Finally you've answer all my questions. Tq
Thank you. A thorough, concise and totally professional tutorial for us DYI'ers. You've taught me so much with your channel, especially with my son's Volvo, his first car. We watch the videos together and proceed with confidence after FCP Euro's pro tutorials.
when doing camber, try not to use the tyre as it bulges at the bottom, maybe 60psi would help negate this error, but get a flat bar the correct rim length for the DIYers
Absolutely! Hence Nate's note that tire is good, but wheel is better to get that camber measurement
Arent' we supposed to do camber adjustment first, then toe? The toe changes when camber changes.
@@ModMINI Caster, then camber, then toe.
@@fcpeuro Tire is not good
or just cut board correct
Thank you so much! I think I will try doing this on my car. Took it to alignment to a shop and they left the wheel crooked, said they couldn't get it straight. (???) Think they just took my money and didn't actually touch the car. This is why I hate taking my car to a shop, you never know what has actually been done to it. Better do it myself.
The wheel usually gets crooked because they make an adjustment, then don't bother checking the wheel to see if it moved. They could absolutely get it straight, just too lazy.
😢
This is a very comprehensive, well done description of the toe alignment process. I would, however, always do the camber adjustment first, as it will effect the toe. I know this is mentioned in the video, but should be stressed more highly, even to 5he point of showing the camber adjustment first.
Thanks for a great video.
Appreciate the note Arnold; much appreciated!
I agree that it's more accurate than shop alignment, much cheaper in the long run too, and you can do whatever you want, no risk of someone disagreeing with your decisions etc.
This is the kind of video I've been looking for. Great explanation! I'm going to try this on my car because it desperately needs it. You did an amazing job teaching how to do this! Thank you!
Excellent presentation. Loved your detailed explanation of the estimated turns needed on tie rod vs the typical "give it a 1/2 turn and retest".
How I learned on the frame rack was woth string alignment. Then the new laser system frame rack came out! Thank you for this video
Thank you sir! I now know more about alignments than i ever did before.
Wow, I wish you could do every car repair video I ever watch. Excellent explanation, even stopped to clear up any question people might have of every detail. Thanks a lot!
WOW, thank you for this. I am going to save lots of money and know the work is done correctly.
Thank you. I just successfully used your DIY Alignment Method on my Audi A4 B5.5 Quattro. Worked perfectly on the first try!
Its so refreshing to hear the word "milimeter" with US accent:-)
This is great! I did something similar at home, but yours is better for sure. I’m getting the stuff to do this.
Very useful video! My car is trailing to the left for some time now, and I was hesitating to take a look at the suspension myself because I would have to align it afterwards. I'll save this guide for later use!
Awesome video guys! Very well spoken. Awesome detail and guidance throughout the video. I really don't have any suggestions for improvement. You covered the items needed and method to make the tooling needed for the process. Explained the process well. Bravo guys! Well done!
Glad you approve Neil! Hopefully it helps a few people tackle the job/process themselves at home
Great job! Best string method diy alignment video I have seen
Amazing video, thank you so much! The only thing is that on the spec it should be 0" 12' toe-in and then you setup 0" 12' toe-out
Aren't you getting your negative and positive toe mixed up. Negative toe = toe out and positive toe = toe in. Apart from that technicality great instructional video
Depends on manufacturer. BMWs need toe in, regardless of what its called.
The notch and scale trick was amazing! 🙏🏽
Thanks so much for making this elaborate video.
You can download an app on your phone to measure angle. So that means you can possibly measure the camber for free!
Great tip! Thank you for watching, James!
Thank you so much for this video I didn't think I would find a video on alignment and you helped me so so much thank you thank you
This is going to save me some money. Two sports cars and multiple alignments a year. That’s almost a free set of tires! 🤙🏻
Awesome. I do all my own work to my car and have just eyeballing it enough to drive it somewhere. Almost lost me for the reasoning on the front with the tierod position at “about 60 to 70%” compared to the outside of the wheel
Well, I dont have a 964 or 944 anymore. Only an American and Japanese car, i guess i dont have to worry about my alignment anymore since it only applies to Euro cars apparently 😊
On a serious note, good general advice for the DIYer :)
You almost lost me a couple times but i think i got it! Very well done!
This is definitely one that is worth a second watch to help better understand or catch some of the finite details Nate goes over. Hopefully you know more now than before watching it though!
CJ is correct. Understanding this is a string alignment and understanding the type of rear suspension (camber/toe affects each other) that being said even in this type of alignment one should correct rear camber then toe...then reset strings to rim or hub because camber adjustment can affect hub distance (in or out). Then same with front.
I also wonder if European definitions of negative or positive toe is different from US definitions.
I was always taught and read (U.S.) that negative toe is toe out and positive is toe in.
Great video on alignment! I to am a suspension mechanic (old school) and started in the late 70's. To be honest I've never been in the racing type of alignment and like your explanation of different angle adjustments for different types of racing, suspensions and tires.
One thing I noticed about almost all alignment videos is that there is very little talk about SAI (KPI for us old timers) and Scrub Radius. One easy visual way to see it is a beginner DYI mechanic will tend to mount deep dish or heavily outer off set rims (tires sticking way out of fenders) but the pro mechanics keep more of a stock look meaning wheel assembly stays tucked in more under supervision and bearing load.
Basically that's Scrub Radius as you know.
Your thoughts or do you feel it's worth making a video on subject.
Aloha Zac
A really excellent explanation on how to set toe and camber, which I shall follow. Thank you.
Make sure the PVC pipes are parallel to each other, too. Since you cut slots in them, each slot needs to be the same distance apart front to rear. If not, even though your strings side to side are the same measurement front to rear, it won't be square if the front and rear PVC pipes aren't parallel. I ran into this with my first alignment I did. I later had to go back and take measurements of everything all around the car to make it square. This took some time, but after that, all you need to know is the track width difference front to rear and one side doesn't even need to match the other which makes for a much quicker alignment next time.
Check corners with a set square or just card cut square.
It will not make any difference. The important thing is the 2 strings are parallel, in relation to the road wheels?
@@bernardwarr4187 I did some more checks and they would have to be pretty far out from each other. You'd be able to tell by eye. This method should get you pretty close. At least within 1/16". The main thing is use the same measurements each time so you're at least consistent
@@tcoffin014 agree, the main thing is the String must a parallel, then it’s down to the accuracy of the measurement
@@bernardwarr4187 they will not be parralel if all angles are not square.
You are very good at these, thanks for a great presentation and explanation!
Can I just check that you set the front wheels to have a toe in, I’m confused by the fact that you started saying toe out once you were adjusting it…?
Really great video, thanks for the tutorial 👍
People are talking about various hacks for making turning steering effortless. Here’s what I did, albeit for replacing steering fluid, but for any purpose this works: Get some bubble-wrap, I happen to have the insulation stuff that’s particularly useful as it has both sides the same, foil-covered and flat. Just make sure the smooth sides are together, otherwise. I cut two pieces for each side, basically about the diameter of the tyre or wheel say, and square ish. You need a pair for each side. Ordinary grease, smear one side only cos it’s easier, of the mating faces, plop the two pieces together with the grease sandwiched, on the ground, where the front wheels can be rolled over it. NOTE…I have a front wheel drive car, and a small slope on my drive, so I drove the car forward of where I wanted it and let it roll back, then applied the handbrake only, to stop the car in position, with the front tyres as close to the middle of the greased bubble wrap squares as possible. I then shoved a couple of bricks hard under the rear wheels, because only the handbrake and rear wheels are holding the car locked in position now. That’s it. The steering will turn free as a bird. It meant for power steering fluid replacement, I could easily spin the wheels fully to lock right and left as the fluid gurgled through, but I will now be digging out this almost-free couple of devices, to help with the alignment. I swear, I expected the bubbles to pop, not a single one did. Weird, no?! Thanks for this vid, take care all.
Excellent video, carefully and thoroughly explained.
Fantastic vid. Thanks, and regards from the south side of the sound...
I found this to be very informative and very well presented……great job.
Talking about easy and user friendly, u should be a teacher. So clear and easy to learn. Thank you. Please make more video
Excellent video, however, your description of positive/negative toe at 3:43 is backwards. I'm an ASE-certified alignment tech for over 30 years and I was once a chassis engineer for Honda. Positive toe is "toe-in" (fronts of tires pointed toward each other). Negative toe is "toe-out". Your spec sheet you showed even confirmed it which gave a positive toe spec (most factory cars have positive toe-in specified for front tires). Your descriptions during the video seemed to indicate you knew which way your alignment angles needed to be regardless of how you defined it earlier in the video. Otherwise, outstanding how-to video. PS: love the ratchet strap technique for centering steering wheel, I will use that ;)
So this is the 3rd video I've watched for a string alignment, and this one is by far the best. The only question I have for all the alignment videos.... Don't all of the measurements being accurate depend on your eyes reading from the exact same angle every time? That was a problem I was having. The angle I was looking at the tape for the front of the front tire had to be the exact same for the rear of the front tire. In other words, where my eyes were looking at the tape had to be exactly the same every time, front and back of the wheel. Go under and make the adjustments, then come back and somehow make sure I was looking at the tape exactly as I did the first time, or my measurements would be different, wouldn't they?
I agree, I Have watched several and I have found that this is the best
Angle of reading on a 2cm rule is barely going to affect your overall number. Maybe 1/10th of a MM difference. We can call this margin of error, and still be well within spec.
Best diy alignment video!
Appreciate it motofan16 !
i agree!
At 17:20 around that time stamp you basically said the wheels on the front are toe out by 3 degrees but if the back portion of the front wheel is longer than the front that would mean that what you meant to say was it’s toed in 😊 thanks for the refresher I’ll just do what I normally would do and not mix myself up any longer on this Friday lol
If the back of the wheel is further from the string, then it's set more in to the car. If the front is closer to the string, then it's set OUT from the car. It's toed out.
Quite a lot of work and materials. I do it using 2x4 or 2x3 wood. Mark the front and back using tire threads, adjust, move the car backwards and forward then measure again until the numbers match.
I understood about half of it, thanks.
gracias por presentar ese método , con la tubería de pvc , no lo había visto.
I've been doing this for 20 years! 👍
Great information, thank you for sharing!
Toe out is negative and toe in is positive, not the other way around. Other than that great video.
Great. I like to do realignment after beginners.
No way in hell I’m climbing under a car to make adjustments without kicking that string at least 8 times
Glad I'm not the only one.
You just don't understand the precision of PVC and handheld jigsaws
@@dare2scheme904 I don’t UNDERSTAND the precision because I’m going to knock everything out of alignment by attempting to do that? 🤨
@@enfynet I think he was making a joke. He agrees with you, but in a joke format.
Part of the fun, this system is super accurate of you use fishing braid instead of string, finer to read
Several areas I like to address...
1. Lifting your car up and not rolling it afterward will affect the accuracy of your alignment.
2. This methodology, measuring center hubs, might not work for modified vehicles where the rear end is wider than the front.
Now, going old school. For modified vehicles and antique cars. Using the same methodology, 4 jack stands and a string. Set you jack stands front and back, set your string front to back, center of the wheel, measure the distance (here is the difference), front and back of the rear tire from the string, makingsureitsthe exact same measure front and back of the rear tire. (When you do this, you establish a true track from your rear end.) Once this is done, then measure the back and front portion of the front tire to set your toe.
Since he's using the PVC pipe to hold the same distance between the strings It won't matter if the track width is different at the back. You're still going to end up with parallel strings when you measure the distance and it's equal on both sides.
But what if the rear tires don't have zero toe? Your method ASSUMES zero toe in the rear :(
Well done guys.
Much appreciated.
Nice video. One issue I have is the camber measurement you suggest. The bottom of the tire will squish out when loaded. I have always used the straight edge forward or backward from the wheel centerline.
So you have the front bar in position, so the strings are equal distance from the front wheels. Then, you move the rear bar to do the same for the rear wheels. You just changed the front to unequal distances!
They "verified" it in the video, although it is not shown. You can essentially run up and down the car a couple times to ensure the string remains centered front-back.
@o0Guns0o you're right. It takes a little running back and forth. Now if I only had a lift. But, no luck, so I calculate the required turns based on thread pitch and crank the wheel to get access to make adjustments.
What a great video! Easy to follow and likely very accurate. I'm a bit dyslexic so some things are hard for me. This one wasn't Thank you
Thank you for taking the time to do this valuable video. I don't have a level surface in sight though lol. I managed to do a toe adjustment anyway.
I like it :) this is the old school and it always works
It is very helpful. Thank you.
You will need to check the front bar again after adjusting the rear bar. The pivot point on the front is not on the wheel centre.
Really nice video on race car alignment ..
great video, great explanation!!! thank you.
Wow, this was incredible helpful. Thank you for sharing.
This is a great video, exactly what I needed
This is such an in depth video! Love it!!
So after you paralleld the rear bar you have now thrown the front bar out of parallel. Someone watching this and doest know the first thing about geometry will be messed up and or they will be adjusting off of incorrectly set parallel strings
They "verified" it in the video, although it is not shown. You can essentially run up and down the car a couple times to ensure the string remains centered front-back.
Love that mini!
Hi to time consuming, if l am at a race l just run the string Around the car get r/h towing dead strait and adjust the left front with about a 2 mill tow in and away we go ,cheers les from Adelaide south Australia
Very good presentation. Thanks!
Excellent sir. Thank you.
My fellow c30 man shows me how to do an alignment :) Love these type of informational videos, keep doing it! And do more c30 vids!!
Plenty more C30 Love to come!
Excellent description and walk through.
if you know the track width of your car , you really dont need those bars.. you can just tie that string to the jackstands and measure out equal distances from the center of the wheel to the line. That would also give you a boxed line set up.
You must be watching this if the shop refused to do alignment on your car or just want to try it. Back in the day, I just use the side of the wider pair of tires for a reference square all around with string loop tied on jack stands on each end. Loosen the tie rods and adjust as the steering wheel moves back to center aligned position. Camber alignment is based on incremental adjustments (rule of half) until you find a sweet middle spot to get tires vertical based on load before and after. The new tire tread wear is the judge after a couple of thousand miles. Good luck.
Awesome tutorial! Thank you.