so grateful for youtube and creators like you, for allowing fellows like me to get a self-directed, world class education in anything of my choosing, whenever I choose, however often I choose :-)
Man i give you 100% for clearly explaining every detail. I wish i can find more helpful videos like this one you made. Taking your time going through every single detail. Well done sir. Thumbs up
One of my absolute favourite how-to guys. Brilliant. Not just the hows, but the whys and the why nots - much more likely to cover the differences between particular vehicles. Thanks for posting this.
Replaced the outer tie rods on my '68 Bug a couple months ago...that ball joint tool is an absolute must for jobs like this and worth every cent. Once done I took some advice from my mechanic to measure the distance between treads on both the front and back of the front tires to determine the toe of the car. It was toed-out 5mm so I readjusted the toe by setting up string lines perfectly parallel to the rear rims as references for the front tires. Car is now toe'd in a few mm and tracks perfectly down the road!
I had seen this exact method recently on youtube by somebody with a cummings swapped truck...forget the name sadly. It's a surefire way to get it as close as you can with just basic tools.
*_Matthew 11.28 Come to Me, all you who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. 29 Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. 30 For My yoke is easy and My burden is light."_* _Jesus Christ loves you. Repent and be saved. Only Jesus Christ saves. God bless you, and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you and your family._ --
As far as removing the outer tie rod from the hub, you didn't mention "loosen the nut, put nut on end of threads, then pound with hammer" technique. That saves the threads AND prevents mushrooming for those without the specialty tool.
If you just wack the side of the hole that it goes through, it'll temporarily deform it and it'll just fall right out. I've done it this way 20 plus times and have never had one not fall right out.
Thanks for these videos Charles! I'm nearly finished my first year at Volkswagen Australia technical training, and your videos are something that students and teachers refer to in class. This one was a perfect supplement to our steering and suspension block. On a personal level too, whenever I need some inspiration to keep me motivated with my training, I come to your channel, and I can guarantee I'll find something within seconds that will give me a boost. So thanks again man, and keep up the good work!
I understand better inner and outer tie rods now, Thank you very much you are incredible as a teacher, good and clear speech video and audio perfect. 100% wish you were my mechanic thank you thank you and than you
Excellent content as always Charles. Super important note in your video regarding the insert sleeves that some hubs use. Especially for people looking to swap out the heavy steel knuckles on their Golf mk 5/6 for the lighter aluminium Audi S3 / Passat ones. Those have pressed inserts and you MUST use the correct collared nut for them, NOT the standard nut that is used to secure the tie rod to the steel Knuckles. Correct part number for the collared nut is WHT000785 (its also used on the ball joint).
Explained beautifully! My Son needed this inner tie rod replaced at a tire store, and I needed educated on what and where this was. Thanks again. Very educational!
I will say one thing about alignment, i rocked my custom alignment after doing a rack, tie rods once or twice and the only ''issues'' was my wheel was off a bit...not fantastic and then after idk a year and a half two years i got the slightest cupping. For sure worth the what, just got one for 73 dollars? CANADIAN pesos that is** So it's really worth it. Plus driving perfectly straight and a nice wheel it's all good. Exactly why i reccomend doing both inners or outers if one is gone, you ''save'' 60 bucks on parts BUT when the other one goes in 5 months, you're out that same money, even more labor AND another alignment.
Excellent video!, I do my own maintenance and anytime I've done tie rods I've only done one side at a time so I can almost completely match the alignment ( after test drive bring it back in garage onto Jack and adjust and re test until straight ) no pulling to either side during hard braking ( panic braking ) or during hard acceleration,, I get good tire wear, and primarily do this to give me more time to take it for alignment,, alignment isn't hyper expensive but 140$ is still 140$ so that's why I do it this way,, just also make sure the tire psi are the same and there's no other play in suspension,, again nice video!
"Leave one out, & bend one down" 15:34 This has often been something which has been debated. I would personally imagine this to be the best option, as it means that the head of the pin will then engage fully into the slot of the castellated nut. Your video has helped clear this up for me. " Thumbs Up!
And when getting alignment done make sure they keep the steering wheel straight, many many many do not and you end up with a steering wheel that isn't centred while the steering is 😉
If you have to tell the alignment shop that you need to go somewhere else. It's like going to get a surgery and having to remind the surgeon not to leave any tools inside your body.
*_Matthew 11.28 Come to Me, all you who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. 29 Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. 30 For My yoke is easy and My burden is light."_* _Jesus Christ loves you. Repent and be saved. Only Jesus Christ saves. God bless you, and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you and your family._ --
Remember there is no need to chase Advance Discount codes. You can use "Humble" any time you like and save $$$! I also learned that on the app, you can combine your PERKS and save up to $20! The best part, it resets the date they expire. So if you have SpeedPerks about to expire, go on the app, combine them and BOOM expiration reset!
hey charles i got a question mk4 jetta ive seen an alignment tool for the subframe but theirs no video that shows how this tool works an how its done properly but i have seen people just slap a new subframe in no alignment done an used the old bolts i know ur not soupposed to strech bolts yada yada just wondering do u have any experiance with this alignment tool ?
Long time, first time in the comment section. Awesome info. I used to have the original R32 ( 2004 mk4 / original owner) which I loved but no longer have it. Oh man how much fun it was back in 2004. But still watching your videos. Keep up the good work man, thank you 👍👍👍
Hey Charles, hope your doing well, got a quick question as a DIY myself, i got a 2017 gti ( US spec) and i live somewhere quite hot 😅 i noticed something, whenever the ambient temp. Reaches 104F (40c) and above the car delays the gear shifts, usually it shift around 2k Rpm but at high temp its delays it to 3 or 4K, any explanation or advice is appreciated, btw love your videos, keep up the great content
I enjoy this channel. I first subscribed back in February 2016 when I bought a manual 2.5 mk5. Still a daily, and love it. You’ve helped along the way.
*_Matthew 11.28 Come to Me, all you who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. 29 Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. 30 For My yoke is easy and My burden is light."_* _Jesus Christ loves you. Repent and be saved. Only Jesus Christ saves. God bless you, and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you and your family._ --
Extremely concise and informative. Cleverly filmed and explained. I just could not stop thinking that this dude's beard is a massive safety hazard that might get caught any time while he's working on assembling parts.
Saw the rubber was pretty expired around the knuckle of my 94 Mercedes. The mechanic also said there was some wiggle in the wheels. This helps explain the details. Thanks a lot!
Stellar walkthrough--clearly, thoroughly, and easily communicated and demonstrated, excellent camera positioning, great pointers! Enjoyed the video. Thanks for posting it 🍻
Thank you HM I've done this job on the outer tie rod and replaced rack boots so many times over the last 30yrs that I thought I knew exactly how to do it. Watching you has changed my mind. You are an awesome tutor, great work. A new sub here with so many previous vids to watch and looking forward to more to come.
Front end work, nice. A good way to avoid tire wear while heading to an alignment shop is pull the inner boot off the rack and use a tape measure to the tie rod end from the rack housing. Right it down, or take a photo and you’ll be within a turn on the settings at the alignment shop. Your tires will thank you.
That or the classic count the threads, my only issue is you may be spinning the uh ball within the inner tie rod and not get it exact. Measuring has gotten me near perfect every time. Plus i've rode on those for a long time with near no issues. the 50 60 70 dollar simple Toe and go alignment is crucial for just getting a perfect handling car. I avoided an alignment just because of idk no extra car, for a year and a half and only had slight cupping after that long. Not reccomended, but it can be done.
Very well explained. Thank you for doing this video. I’m well versed in driving a wornout steering rack. Sucks bad and I swapped the rack and had a shop do the wheel alignment
Yeah, my steering is questionable too. Happened after me and a friend replaced both front lower control arms. Dont know if powersteering pump got shot or if we blew some kind of a sealing in the steering rack.. steering doesnt have that nice and thight feeling anymore.. its super duper light sometimes and back to kinda normal sometimes. Steering wheel does not "spring back" when the steering feels super light. Also sometimes when i drive forward slow i can turn the wheel some degrees and i still go forward with a slightly turn to left.. so i dont know.. :)
Thanks, this is great advice. My front wheels had major play after I recently replaced all control arms + outer tie rods on my Audi A8. Turns out that if the outer tie rod is seized to the inner tie rod and you torque it it'll damage the inner tie rod...
My inner tie rod broke last night . Heard a loud pop/ping and steering went kinda weird . When i reversed on driveway the right wheel folded out . Good video ! Useful
A wiggling wheel could also be a sign of a wheel hub bearing. You provide excellent insight and presentation. I just subscribed to your channel and I look forward to leaning from you.
I recently changed my coilovers and my axle broke and got it replaced. I’ve been hearing a lot of clunking noise ever since and needed this video. Greatly appreciate it!
Fun fact: The return line of my power steering on my 1.8 MK4 rusted trough.I remember doing the pressure line from the pump to the distributor and what a pain in the ass this was.Wish me luck 😝. P.S. Great video again.Keep going 👍
The return line on my mk4 Jetta was rusty as hell, so I gave it a once over with a wire brush and some rust protection. Might replace it when I replace the clutch in the not too distant future.
Dam, I just got an alignment on my 2001 Accord after I rebuilt the automatic tranny because the cross member was removed. Even though I marked the x member before removal I decided to get the alignment to ensure things were back to spec. I was so pre-occupied by the previous tranny issue (hard 1-2 shift which turned out to be bad 2nd clutch discs and friction plates) that I didn't think much about a slight knock noise over bumps and a small wheel shake ~100 km/h might be linked. Just bought the car about 2 months ago with the known tranny issue and a couple bad wheel bearings. This vid gave me the idea to check to the tie rods. We owned a 2002 Accord and never had tie rod issues, but the 2001 was a recent purchase with more miles and I don't know the history like I did for our previous 02, Jacked up FR tire and noticed a very slight movement in the tie rods. Inspected the FD side and didn't notice any, until to put some muscle into when I felt some decent play and heard the know noise, Glad I found this vid to point me in the tie rod direction as I was suspecting the more expensive struts. Going to order inner and outer tie rods for both sides, and get a second wheel alignment in less than 3 wks
Great timing. I have new Koni suspension, 034 control arm kit, and inner/outer tierods that I am going to tackle this weekend if it isn't hotter than the surface of the fun.
excellent outer & inner tie rods replacement & outer tie rod in toe & out toe adjustment # as i understand the inner tie rod ball joint is for movement outer tie rod vertically & horizontally but it is the inner tie rod outward & inward movement which moves the wheel out or in # ❤️🇵🇰
I was hoping those inner tie rod boots also served as power steering reservoirs. You answered my question on whether to replace the power steering rack I was hoping to avoid. I got 200K on a 2010 Dakota. How reliable are remanufactured steering racks compared to the cost of new ones? Great videos. Something everyone should know a little bit about, life skills.
I recently replaced my steering rack with a remanufactured unit. Original had 200k. 1 year later, I’m here watching a video on how to replace an inner tie rod.
I have a tool set for inner tie rods with self adjusting rollers inside. just put over the cup and turn until the rollers grip. it was cheap and works like nothing else. surprising, even for me. I used it twice so far but it already paid after the first use
@HumbleMechanic mine is making a clunking noise on the drivers side front when turning right but it only does it when straightening the wheel back up doesnt make a noise when turning right or when u turn lwft and staighten it back up just when straightening it back up from furning right personally think its the ball joint but surely it would make noise not matter what way i turn the wheel
I know that feeling, but.... I was given a 2002 Kia Sportage last Oct. 1, that looks good on the outside, but the underneath is a mess. I didn't have a car for 10 1/2 years and someone was nice enough to give me the 2002 Kia. The underneath has a frame rusted frame rail and all the suspension along with it. I've had 40 surgeries in my life and it's hard enough to try, but the bolts are rusted completely. The whole front driver side has 3 loose joints. I have to wait until I have the death wobble and then I'll have to get rid of it. No more vehicle again. I like seeing your work on vehicles, but my lack of money, I can't do anything. God Bless
I wound up buying a tool similar to an exhaust clamp with a 3/8 socket opening on it. The inner toe rods I had where considered “unserviceable”. They had no flat spots for a removal tool. It was pretty easy to put on and remove the toe rods. Would be much easier than those huge pliers you had haha
Some old guy taught me to diagnose steering. Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel with one finger. Crawl under and look at the tie rods etc. Whatever is wiggling needs replaced. It's quite simple actually.
Ya haha I've been dealing with noise off and on for months! Mine went and the guy only did the outer!... and he even did an alignment that day. but he messed it up!....
This is a great video! Question: is it unnecessary to count the threads on the new inner tie rod for putting the new jam nut on? Can't the new nut just get threaded on enough so that you can turn the outer tie rod X amount of rotations then tighten the jam nut to the new outer tie rod?
Dont count threads take the inner and outer off together...then measure it out...rarely have i gotten an inner or outer that didnt have more or less threads that the original...
so grateful for youtube and creators like you, for allowing fellows like me to get a self-directed, world class education in anything of my choosing, whenever I choose, however often I choose :-)
Man i give you 100% for clearly explaining every detail. I wish i can find more helpful videos like this one you made. Taking your time going through every single detail. Well done sir. Thumbs up
Thanks!
One of my absolute favourite how-to guys. Brilliant. Not just the hows, but the whys and the why nots - much more likely to cover the differences between particular vehicles. Thanks for posting this.
Your teaching and humility is awesome!
THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS I'VE SEEN! PERFECTLY EXPLAINED EVERYTHING!
Replaced the outer tie rods on my '68 Bug a couple months ago...that ball joint tool is an absolute must for jobs like this and worth every cent. Once done I took some advice from my mechanic to measure the distance between treads on both the front and back of the front tires to determine the toe of the car. It was toed-out 5mm so I readjusted the toe by setting up string lines perfectly parallel to the rear rims as references for the front tires. Car is now toe'd in a few mm and tracks perfectly down the road!
I had seen this exact method recently on youtube by somebody with a cummings swapped truck...forget the name sadly. It's a surefire way to get it as close as you can with just basic tools.
*_Matthew 11.28 Come to Me, all you who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. 29 Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. 30 For My yoke is easy and My burden is light."_*
_Jesus Christ loves you. Repent and be saved. Only Jesus Christ saves. God bless you, and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you and your family._
--
@William Munny "For My tie rods are tight, and My steering is easy."
Best video ever. I am now confident in replacing the inner and outer tie rods. And a bonus, giving me information on rack and pinion inspection.
Great instructional video, I had my teenage son watch this before I asked him to help me to get and understand the basics. Thanks!
As far as removing the outer tie rod from the hub, you didn't mention "loosen the nut, put nut on end of threads, then pound with hammer" technique. That saves the threads AND prevents mushrooming for those without the specialty tool.
Only if you’re reusing old tie rod end. If you are replacing with new just whack it and get it out. It don’t take much of a shock to pop it out
If you just wack the side of the hole that it goes through, it'll temporarily deform it and it'll just fall right out. I've done it this way 20 plus times and have never had one not fall right out.
@@Hes_Bona_Fideexactly.
@@Hes_Bona_Fidethis is the only way iv ever done it, banging on the nut is most times COMPLETELY ineffective. Rookie move for sure...
yeah something like that
I think it's amazing that you sponsor a scholarship. You're awesome, dude. You seem super humble.
Thanks for these videos Charles! I'm nearly finished my first year at Volkswagen Australia technical training, and your videos are something that students and teachers refer to in class. This one was a perfect supplement to our steering and suspension block. On a personal level too, whenever I need some inspiration to keep me motivated with my training, I come to your channel, and I can guarantee I'll find something within seconds that will give me a boost. So thanks again man, and keep up the good work!
You are a very good instructor. Thanks for doing the video.
I understand better inner and outer tie rods now, Thank you very much you are incredible as a teacher, good and clear speech video and audio perfect. 100% wish you were my mechanic thank you thank you and than you
Excellent content as always Charles. Super important note in your video regarding the insert sleeves that some hubs use. Especially for people looking to swap out the heavy steel knuckles on their Golf mk 5/6 for the lighter aluminium Audi S3 / Passat ones. Those have pressed inserts and you MUST use the correct collared nut for them, NOT the standard nut that is used to secure the tie rod to the steel Knuckles. Correct part number for the collared nut is WHT000785 (its also used on the ball joint).
Explained beautifully! My Son needed this inner tie rod replaced at a tire store, and I needed educated on what and where this was. Thanks again. Very educational!
To be or not to be.
Charles making it look easy. Great vid
I will say one thing about alignment, i rocked my custom alignment after doing a rack, tie rods once or twice and the only ''issues'' was my wheel was off a bit...not fantastic and then after idk a year and a half two years i got the slightest cupping. For sure worth the what, just got one for 73 dollars? CANADIAN pesos that is** So it's really worth it. Plus driving perfectly straight and a nice wheel it's all good. Exactly why i reccomend doing both inners or outers if one is gone, you ''save'' 60 bucks on parts BUT when the other one goes in 5 months, you're out that same money, even more labor AND another alignment.
This is a crystal clear explanation! Great video and the description of the steering column brought everything together.
Excellent video!, I do my own maintenance and anytime I've done tie rods I've only done one side at a time so I can almost completely match the alignment ( after test drive bring it back in garage onto Jack and adjust and re test until straight ) no pulling to either side during hard braking ( panic braking ) or during hard acceleration,, I get good tire wear, and primarily do this to give me more time to take it for alignment,, alignment isn't hyper expensive but 140$ is still 140$ so that's why I do it this way,, just also make sure the tire psi are the same and there's no other play in suspension,, again nice video!
Ball joint separators are one of the fun tools. Love to hear the "pop"!
Hands down the BEST video I've seen on explaining this part of the steering system. Great job!
I normally use vernier caliper to measure th distance between the lock nut and the tie rod end thread
"Leave one out, & bend one down" 15:34 This has often been something which has been debated. I would personally imagine this to be the best option, as it means that the head of the pin will then engage fully into the slot of the castellated nut. Your video has helped clear this up for me. " Thumbs Up!
And when getting alignment done make sure they keep the steering wheel straight, many many many do not and you end up with a steering wheel that isn't centred while the steering is 😉
The fact that this needs to be said is BONKERS. BUT YEA 100% lol
If you have to tell the alignment shop that you need to go somewhere else. It's like going to get a surgery and having to remind the surgeon not to leave any tools inside your body.
Lol my old honda had the steering wheel turned too when i got it
The new alignment machines from hunter make it where it knows where the steering wheel is straight its called win toe If I remember correctly
*_Matthew 11.28 Come to Me, all you who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. 29 Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. 30 For My yoke is easy and My burden is light."_*
_Jesus Christ loves you. Repent and be saved. Only Jesus Christ saves. God bless you, and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you and your family._
--
Remember there is no need to chase Advance Discount codes. You can use "Humble" any time you like and save $$$! I also learned that on the app, you can combine your PERKS and save up to $20! The best part, it resets the date they expire. So if you have SpeedPerks about to expire, go on the app, combine them and BOOM expiration reset!
hey charles i got a question mk4 jetta ive seen an alignment tool for the subframe but theirs no video that shows how this tool works an how its done properly but i have seen people just slap a new subframe in no alignment done an used the old bolts i know ur not soupposed to strech bolts yada yada just wondering do u have any experiance with this alignment tool ?
Long time, first time in the comment section.
Awesome info.
I used to have the original R32 ( 2004 mk4 / original owner) which I loved but no longer have it. Oh man how much fun it was back in 2004. But still watching your videos. Keep up the good work man, thank you 👍👍👍
Hey Charles, hope your doing well, got a quick question as a DIY myself, i got a 2017 gti ( US spec) and i live somewhere quite hot 😅 i noticed something, whenever the ambient temp. Reaches 104F (40c) and above the car delays the gear shifts, usually it shift around 2k Rpm but at high temp its delays it to 3 or 4K, any explanation or advice is appreciated, btw love your videos, keep up the great content
I enjoy this channel. I first subscribed back in February 2016 when I bought a manual 2.5 mk5. Still a daily, and love it. You’ve helped along the way.
Really excellent video man. Covered absolutely everything I would want to including how to do it without just the fancy tools. Awesome!
Thanks dude
*_Matthew 11.28 Come to Me, all you who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. 29 Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. 30 For My yoke is easy and My burden is light."_*
_Jesus Christ loves you. Repent and be saved. Only Jesus Christ saves. God bless you, and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you and your family._
--
One of the best so far. Well done
Extremely concise and informative. Cleverly filmed and explained.
I just could not stop thinking that this dude's beard is a massive safety hazard that might get caught any time while he's working on assembling parts.
Saw the rubber was pretty expired around the knuckle of my 94 Mercedes. The mechanic also said there was some wiggle in the wheels. This helps explain the details. Thanks a lot!
Subscribed. Very thorough explanation and demonstration. I appreciate your approach to safety. Well done.
Stellar walkthrough--clearly, thoroughly, and easily communicated and demonstrated, excellent camera positioning, great pointers! Enjoyed the video. Thanks for posting it 🍻
Thank you HM I've done this job on the outer tie rod and replaced rack boots so many times over the last 30yrs that I thought I knew exactly how to do it. Watching you has changed my mind. You are an awesome tutor, great work. A new sub here with so many previous vids to watch and looking forward to more to come.
That was better than the Toyota-specific vids I've been watching. Thanks.
Front end work, nice.
A good way to avoid tire wear while heading to an alignment shop is pull the inner boot off the rack and use a tape measure to the tie rod end from the rack housing. Right it down, or take a photo and you’ll be within a turn on the settings at the alignment shop.
Your tires will thank you.
That or the classic count the threads, my only issue is you may be spinning the uh ball within the inner tie rod and not get it exact. Measuring has gotten me near perfect every time. Plus i've rode on those for a long time with near no issues. the 50 60 70 dollar simple Toe and go alignment is crucial for just getting a perfect handling car. I avoided an alignment just because of idk no extra car, for a year and a half and only had slight cupping after that long. Not reccomended, but it can be done.
@@baileyhatfield4273 Yeah, counting threads will work also, as long as the replacements are the same over all length. ;)
Very well explained. Thank you for doing this video. I’m well versed in driving a wornout steering rack. Sucks bad and I swapped the rack and had a shop do the wheel alignment
Yeah, my steering is questionable too. Happened after me and a friend replaced both front lower control arms. Dont know if powersteering pump got shot or if we blew some kind of a sealing in the steering rack.. steering doesnt have that nice and thight feeling anymore.. its super duper light sometimes and back to kinda normal sometimes. Steering wheel does not "spring back" when the steering feels super light. Also sometimes when i drive forward slow i can turn the wheel some degrees and i still go forward with a slightly turn to left.. so i dont know.. :)
😦
Thanks, this is great advice. My front wheels had major play after I recently replaced all control arms + outer tie rods on my Audi A8. Turns out that if the outer tie rod is seized to the inner tie rod and you torque it it'll damage the inner tie rod...
Good vid mate. Exactly the refresher I needed. Haven’t done this for a couple of years. Thanx so much.
Shout out for humble
From 🇱🇾 Libya thanks a lot.
Great beard, great attitude, great explanation, great video!
Nice video, informative. Qu, how can one be sure the movement at 3 and 9 is not the wheel bearing?
Awesome video, very detailed, science explained, full of humor yet to the point. Great job on this video, I loved it!
Thank you sooooo much Sir, I have a GMC and your instructions are very very good. You helped me tremendously!
I’ll always remember this man as the man who loves his VR6
My inner tie rod broke last night . Heard a loud pop/ping and steering went kinda weird . When i reversed on driveway the right wheel folded out . Good video ! Useful
What do you mean folded out? Was it dangerous?
Great job! Thank you so much for the knowledge. People like you gives me hope.
A wiggling wheel could also be a sign of a wheel hub bearing. You provide excellent insight and presentation. I just subscribed to your channel and I look forward to leaning from you.
Thanks for this tutorial. Going to give it a try. My outer tie rod broke off at the ball joint. It makes it hard to break the jam nut.
Very thorough video/demonstration/tutorial. Thanks Much HumbleMechanic.👍
I recently changed my coilovers and my axle broke and got it replaced. I’ve been hearing a lot of clunking noise ever since and needed this video. Greatly appreciate it!
One of best and simplest explaining video keep going same as 👍
You rock Mr Humble - thank you! Keep 'em coming!
Mr Humble was his dad. 🤣
Fun fact: The return line of my power steering on my 1.8 MK4 rusted trough.I remember doing the pressure line from the pump to the distributor and what a pain in the ass this was.Wish me luck 😝.
P.S. Great video again.Keep going 👍
Sometimes you just hand the car to a shop to fix it. I wish i had that several times. So much frustration, swearing, sweating, bloody hands etc.. :)
@@orfeous That's true but first i'll give it a try bc. moneys always short ;-)
The return line on my mk4 Jetta was rusty as hell, so I gave it a once over with a wire brush and some rust protection.
Might replace it when I replace the clutch in the not too distant future.
@@panzerveps Then let's hope it's not too gone 🍀
Dam, I just got an alignment on my 2001 Accord after I rebuilt the automatic tranny because the cross member was removed. Even though I marked the x member before removal I decided to get the alignment to ensure things were back to spec.
I was so pre-occupied by the previous tranny issue (hard 1-2 shift which turned out to be bad 2nd clutch discs and friction plates) that I didn't think much about a slight knock noise over bumps and a small wheel shake ~100 km/h might be linked. Just bought the car about 2 months ago with the known tranny issue and a couple bad wheel bearings.
This vid gave me the idea to check to the tie rods. We owned a 2002 Accord and never had tie rod issues, but the 2001 was a recent purchase with more miles and I don't know the history like I did for our previous 02,
Jacked up FR tire and noticed a very slight movement in the tie rods. Inspected the FD side and didn't notice any, until to put some muscle into when I felt some decent play and heard the know noise,
Glad I found this vid to point me in the tie rod direction as I was suspecting the more expensive struts. Going to order inner and outer tie rods for both sides, and get a second wheel alignment in less than 3 wks
Excellent video , very clear explanations, Thank you so much bro!
youknow you love cars unbiasly when the vw tech says lets do it like toyota did it ...great video as always please keep up the work great beared sage
Best tie rod vid by a mile .
Dude great video and i mean that sincerely very great detail and commentary
Excellent instructions and information! Thank you!
I’ve never seen that inner tie rod tool before. I’m going to get one as it would save a lot of time.
Great timing. I have new Koni suspension, 034 control arm kit, and inner/outer tierods that I am going to tackle this weekend if it isn't hotter than the surface of the fun.
excellent outer & inner tie rods replacement & outer tie rod in toe & out toe adjustment # as i understand the inner tie rod ball joint is for movement outer tie rod vertically & horizontally but it is the inner tie rod outward & inward movement which moves the wheel out or in # ❤️🇵🇰
My favorite tool for inner tie rods is the oem tools universal it looks like an exhaust clamp works great every time and is super small
Yep, very good and thorough video dude. Damn, those outer ends were seized, even with heat one of mine did not want to move!
Great video. Breaks it down so anybody could know what's going on.
You are a good teacher
I love it very nice explanation we need more videos from you
Quality content, thanks for uploading.
Great video. You are an excellent communicator. I’m hooked. Thank you!
Thank you
I was hoping those inner tie rod boots also served as power steering reservoirs. You answered my question on whether to replace the power steering rack I was hoping to avoid. I got 200K on a 2010 Dakota. How reliable are remanufactured steering racks compared to the cost of new ones? Great videos. Something everyone should know a little bit about, life skills.
I recently replaced my steering rack with a remanufactured unit. Original had 200k. 1 year later, I’m here watching a video on how to replace an inner tie rod.
I have a tool set for inner tie rods with self adjusting rollers inside. just put over the cup and turn until the rollers grip. it was cheap and works like nothing else. surprising, even for me. I used it twice so far but it already paid after the first use
@HumbleMechanic mine is making a clunking noise on the drivers side front when turning right but it only does it when straightening the wheel back up doesnt make a noise when turning right or when u turn lwft and staighten it back up just when straightening it back up from furning right personally think its the ball joint but surely it would make noise not matter what way i turn the wheel
Nice. Just replaced the inner and outer tie rods on my 1994 Integra GSR.
I know that feeling, but.... I was given a 2002 Kia Sportage last Oct. 1, that looks good on the outside, but the underneath is a mess. I didn't have a car for 10 1/2 years and someone was nice enough to give me the 2002 Kia. The underneath has a frame rusted frame rail and all the suspension along with it. I've had 40 surgeries in my life and it's hard enough to try, but the bolts are rusted completely. The whole front driver side has 3 loose joints. I have to wait until I have the death wobble and then I'll have to get rid of it. No more vehicle again. I like seeing your work on vehicles, but my lack of money, I can't do anything. God Bless
I wound up buying a tool similar to an exhaust clamp with a 3/8 socket opening on it. The inner toe rods I had where considered “unserviceable”. They had no flat spots for a removal tool. It was pretty easy to put on and remove the toe rods. Would be much easier than those huge pliers you had haha
Nice video! Looks like that right side Cradle arm big bushing has quite a few cracks in it - it may be time to change it too! Keep up the good work!
Good job and 100% explained, god bless u
Excellent instructions got my subscription 👊🏻
🙏🙏🙏
Outstanding explanation tutorial. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Very detailed video. Thank you for your time sir
I should have watched this last week. Snapped the inner on the freeway offramp.
thankyou for the vid, i had a feeling my tierod is probably bad so i now know how to replace then get aligment. Thanks again.
Some old guy taught me to diagnose steering.
Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel with one finger. Crawl under and look at the tie rods etc.
Whatever is wiggling needs replaced.
It's quite simple actually.
You're awesome , fellow VAG lover keep the content coming!
Extremely helpful video. Thank you.
Great job Charles, very well explained:):)
Love You, Man!... I am now ready to do it
Nice and simple, thanks for that
Exactly what I was looking for thanks man
glad to help
I’ve always crewed the nut onto the balljoint bolt where their flush then smack it with a hammer, somtimes I use a pry bar prying up as I hit it
Super great video. Well done!
Ya haha I've been dealing with noise off and on for months! Mine went and the guy only did the outer!... and he even did an alignment that day. but he messed it up!....
@12:56 I thought you were trying to grab onto the tie rod hahaha had to watch it again and realized you were crimping
This was awesome! I got learned today!!
Thank you!
This is a great video! Question: is it unnecessary to count the threads on the new inner tie rod for putting the new jam nut on? Can't the new nut just get threaded on enough so that you can turn the outer tie rod X amount of rotations then tighten the jam nut to the new outer tie rod?
Dont count threads take the inner and outer off together...then measure it out...rarely have i gotten an inner or outer that didnt have more or less threads that the original...
Great job explaining everything...
Humbleness at its essence. Charles do you have a shop ?
Don't forget the red locktite for the inner
AWSOME VIDEO PRESENTATION! 🙂