Really do appreciate this , started the revival process on my mother in laws 52 f1 that’s has been sitting in the woods for 25+ years , got it dug out moved , had to do some rewiring on the ignition system, has spark from coil to points , just waiting to get some money to buy new spark plug wires as mice have destroyed the originals , then I believe I’m gonna rebuild the manual fuel pump but plan to do a temp fuel system just to get her started
Thanks mate....lifesaver. :). Yeah I like the Eastwood video but you are right they don't show you swapping out the old valves inside. I didn't use your method as I didn't have a bot big enough lying around but mine popped out easy enough with a flat blade Screwdriver. But great detailed video, helped alot thanks! :)
☆Nice screw bolt maneuver to remove the parts! Great idea. I hate videos that don't show everything they should, it's ridiculous.... Nice job! 👏 👍 ☆☆☆☆☆
Good video. I suggest that when assembling the fuel pump, it is important to push on the arm to fully compress the diaphragm spring so that the diaphragm will have its full range of travel when operating. Leave the screws lose a turn and a half or so; then push the arm to its fully compressed position. Then while holding it in that compressed position, tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern. This pulls the diaphragm up or down as the case may be so that on relaxation it is a bit "baggy" inside the pump, and allows it to move up and down with the pumping action more freely. and without over stretching the diaphragm rubber. This method is also shown in the pump rebuild videos done by Then & Now Automotive who make the best rebuild kits that include check valves that they make and the correct diaphragm springs that give output pressure per the old Ford specs. Jim C.
I was actually looking for a video on the dual - action pump rebuild . .. .But !! I feel this one definately gave me some good pointers on what to look for on those .... I too had thought about your pushrod - reciever . . . I Totally agree - theres nothing as good as ORIGINAL ! Thanks for sharing !!
Thanks. Perfect. I got to exactly the same point - staring at the two valves that weren't going to come out without some convincing! As you noted, service manual suggests they''ll just lift right out. Not so much...
I rebuilt another pump the other day that actually has a small bracket that holds both valves in. In those earlier pumps they do lift out but that was the first time I’d seen that type. Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting!
Great video. I had the same problem with check valves that other commenters had. So I gave up and purchased a Bob Drake fuel pump. It seems beefy enough and it works fine. Too fine! It pushes about 7lbs fuel pressure, so I had to install an inline regulator. I don’t love how that looks but it’s running fine. **Discovered later (somewhere on the HAMB) that simply using the old spring, instead of the new spring, works best for correct fuel pressure.
Are you referring to the old school filter that goes inside the glass bowl? I have one on an old rebuilt pump like that. But I always run in-line wix filters before it gets to the glass bowl. I personally wouldn’t add the media filter that goes inside the glass. My glass bowls catch stuff that gets past the wix filters. The glass bowl alone is very efficient.
Usually the aluminum at the edge of the valves is lightly 'peened' to lock them in place......Ethanol kills those diaphragms and I've been rebuilding a similar pump for my '59 TR3A for many years....Always use original stuff but the kits and repos made offshore are garbage (from India)......Had to heli-coil the threads on the base 'cause I've rebuilt mine so many times over 53 years that the treads became 'punky' ....You can find kits on-line that are Ethanol resistant, but you pay more (it's worth it)......John(west coast,Can.)
You do good work
Really do appreciate this , started the revival process on my mother in laws 52 f1 that’s has been sitting in the woods for 25+ years , got it dug out moved , had to do some rewiring on the ignition system, has spark from coil to points , just waiting to get some money to buy new spark plug wires as mice have destroyed the originals , then I believe I’m gonna rebuild the manual fuel pump but plan to do a temp fuel system just to get her started
Really helpful on the removal of the check valve (I was wondering how to do that). Great video!
Thank you for the comment! I really appreciate it. I’m glad it was helpful.
Great video, nice job. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome!
Awesome vid! Been looking everywhere how to replace the check valves.
I hope this method helps you!
Thanks mate....lifesaver. :). Yeah I like the Eastwood video but you are right they don't show you swapping out the old valves inside. I didn't use your method as I didn't have a bot big enough lying around but mine popped out easy enough with a flat blade Screwdriver. But great detailed video, helped alot thanks! :)
I’m happy it helped! Thanks for watching!
☆Nice screw bolt maneuver to remove the parts! Great idea. I hate videos that don't show everything they should, it's ridiculous.... Nice job! 👏 👍 ☆☆☆☆☆
I glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
Good video. I suggest that when assembling the fuel pump, it is important to push on the arm to fully compress the diaphragm spring so that the diaphragm will have its full range of travel when operating. Leave the screws lose a turn and a half or so; then push the arm to its fully compressed position. Then while holding it in that compressed position, tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern. This pulls the diaphragm up or down as the case may be so that on relaxation it is a bit "baggy" inside the pump, and allows it to move up and down with the pumping action more freely. and without over stretching the diaphragm rubber. This method is also shown in the pump rebuild videos done by Then & Now Automotive who make the best rebuild kits that include check valves that they make and the correct diaphragm springs that give output pressure per the old Ford specs. Jim C.
Thank you for the detail
I was actually looking for a video on the dual - action pump rebuild . .. .But !! I feel this one definately gave me some good pointers on what to look for on those .... I too had thought about your pushrod - reciever . . . I Totally agree - theres nothing as good as ORIGINAL !
Thanks for sharing !!
Thanks. Perfect. I got to exactly the same point - staring at the two valves that weren't going to come out without some convincing! As you noted, service manual suggests they''ll just lift right out. Not so much...
I rebuilt another pump the other day that actually has a small bracket that holds both valves in. In those earlier pumps they do lift out but that was the first time I’d seen that type.
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting!
looking forward to seeing it run.
Me to. It won’t be long now. I’ll be finished rebuilding the carb this weekend. I’ll get it on my run stand and fire it up very soon!
Great video. I had the same problem with check valves that other commenters had. So I gave up and purchased a Bob Drake fuel pump. It seems beefy enough and it works fine. Too fine! It pushes about 7lbs fuel pressure, so I had to install an inline regulator. I don’t love how that looks but it’s running fine. **Discovered later (somewhere on the HAMB) that simply using the old spring, instead of the new spring, works best for correct fuel pressure.
You could also keep turning the bolt in and it would push it out. Good info, thanks
Thank you
You're welcome
Do you the PN for the kit to add a fuel filter to the glass bowl?
Are you referring to the old school filter that goes inside the glass bowl? I have one on an old rebuilt pump like that. But I always run in-line wix filters before it gets to the glass bowl.
I personally wouldn’t add the media filter that goes inside the glass. My glass bowls catch stuff that gets past the wix filters. The glass bowl alone is very efficient.
@@ChadDrake4185 ok good to know. I'll just rebuild it and leave my in line wix in place. Great video.
Thank you for the question and the feedback! I’m happy to help.
I rebuilt the pump on my 59AB last year and thought I'd have the same problem with the valves but mine popped right out.
Nice. Mine were really tight. I’m rebuilding a 59a pump here in a few days. We’ll see how that one goes.
Thanks for watching!
Did you slightly stake the check valves in?
I did
@@ChadDrake4185 must have miss it. thx.
@@ChadDrake4185 u know where to get just rubber diaphram, i understand that all 3" and 4" have same screw holes punched to fit any pump? thx.
@@wrenchguy checkout thirdgenauto.com/. I believe they carry just the diaphragm. This is where I buy my kits.
Usually the aluminum at the edge of the valves is lightly 'peened' to lock them in place......Ethanol kills those diaphragms and I've been rebuilding a similar pump for my '59 TR3A for many years....Always use original stuff but the kits and repos made offshore are garbage (from India)......Had to heli-coil the threads on the base 'cause I've rebuilt mine so many times over 53 years that the treads became 'punky' ....You can find kits on-line that are Ethanol resistant, but you pay more (it's worth it)......John(west coast,Can.)
You outta have a thing where people send you theirs and you repair them