I've watched a lot of gas bike vids.. most of them explain things okay but the visuals suck. As a person who is visually impaired i was very impressed by the up close and detailed shots you provided. So I now know exactly what things look like even if I can't see them. i know whats what..
Use electronic motor cleaner as it leaves no residue behind or not suppose to leave anything behind. A lot of times I keep a bottle of 190 proof just for cleaning some parts. One for the part and two in my drink. LOL. Where the cable goes through the holder, I would tin that with a hard tubing around the cable even if I had to drill the hole bigger. One may also have to drill the guide bolt hole bigger as well for it to fit. This will keep the cable in great shape and the bolt will not damage the cable. Just a thought.... Great video as I can't wait to start building my 4 stroke bike.
Hey nice video and you did an excellent job on how to solve the problem with the clutch slipping I just got finish installing new brake pads on my motorize bike I adjusted the flower nut as tight as I could it didn't really solve the problem I think the spring on my clutch shaft needs to be tighten so the is the next thing I am going to do I will let you know how things work out
Quick tip don’t remove the clutch cable pull in the clutch and press the button then remove the flower nut makes it a lot easier as you don’t have to hold the clutch lever by the engine
Thanks a lot I had a brand new motor do that I’m glad I found this site…..I was ready to trash the motor. I got another motor unfortunately I have to drill out the screws because they stripped
Seems to me that sanding down the clutch pads leads to variable thicknesses and a pressure plate that doesn't make 100% contact. Using petroleum distillates to clean friction pads isn't a good idea it will leave behind oil residue. Acetone based cleaners are best.
Streching the spring dosint help and causes more stress on the spring. If its too compressed then replace it. Once you put the clutch plate back on its going to relax back into the same resistance that it has worn out into.
Dear Sir-You should use a standard screwdriver or something similar , to remove the pads. Those needlenose are tearing up the pad surface. Lastly, as cheap as these pads are, I would replace with new ones. I've owned a 49cc Grubbee 2 stroke since 2010 and it's been running great for over 12 years-John in Texas
Great video, nice and informative. I'd say you went a little too tight on the flower nut though. Usually you just tighten it by hand, pull the clutch arm and move it 2, 3, 4 more notches. Maybe a half turn. Other than that, great job keeping the work in frame and showing the preload spring adjustment. As a content creator though, I think you should have given Hughes Motorized a shoutout. It's pretty clear that's where you found the preload spring adjustment tip.
Fantastic fucking video. I just spent 90 on a new bottom end piece and that wasn't working either. I did this and it works like a charm. Been trying to fix it for 2 weeks. Keep up the great vids. Not many on motor bikes
Hey! Easy way to fix this and I know your going to go meh! lol Take some Wd40 since its a solvent. Spray down your clutch & pads. Use a brush and scrub them well. Then take some dawn dish soap and scrub it down fast with soapy water. After Take some rubbing acholic on a rag wipe it over once well. Use *Marine Grease* on your gear ring. Only about what you put on a toothbrush worth. Seal it up. Marine grease will stay on the gearing better not fly off. How does this bike even run! lol..... Bottom case is not even fully sealed? This thing must have made lean fuel issues?
YOU MAY NOT NEED NEW PADS!!!! I've watch several of these videos of changing the clutch pads. In all the videos the pads seem stuck in the clutch pad gear. It seems to me if they're stuck in the gear, the spring loaded outer sheet metal disc is not going to be able to push the pads against the inner flywheel disc. This being the case, the only friction you're going to get is against the outter sheet metal disc and it's no wonder the clutch is slipping. I have not tried this but most likely you could remove the clutch pads, sand the edges so they fit in their recessed slots easily, button it up and it would run fine. There's a good chance they're not wore out but just stuck in the gear and can no longer be pushed against the inside flywheel. ; )
? You could clean the pads but the pads are set!! Why sand them? Way to much effort.The pads usually last for years unless you bomb the clutch constantly. And yeah the flower nut should be turned one or two spaces clockwise. Your clutch plate is the metal behind the basket which is housed by the bell or cup. The front as you say is only used when you disengage hence the external spring to keep your cup from dragging. Good information on the “clutch” itself but not all springs line to the shaft. Just take the clutch out if you need to adjust it.
How do you like that healthy Cranbrook I got one just like it but the front rims bent I have yet to put a motor on it but that's what I'm going to do maybe four stroke I bought the bike at Walmart it was on sale for $77 I didn't know the front rim was back though somebody must have returned it the front room is really bad I guess that's why I was on sale
One thing I would like some clarity on. The perch that the clutch cable runs through, you unscrew it and stick the punch in the notch of the clutch assembly. Here is my question - When you have the punch in the notch and you roll the bike back, are you supposed to hold the punch so the assembly doesn't roll back to? I put the punch in there and rolled the bike back, but the assembly rolled back as well. Am i supposed to hold the punch and put force in the opposite direction while rolling the bike back?
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I don't think you understood my question. I figured it out. I clearly know that considering I asked about the punch. My question was regarding the pressure. I didn't loosen my flower nut at first. Hughes Motorized shows how to do it and I did it exactly like he did but didn't take the flower nut off. I put the punch in the groove and the assembly wanted to keep going backwards. I watched your video and to make it work you have to take your flower nut damn near off Before doing the spring adjustment, you MUST take the clutch cover off, take the Phillips screw out, and loosen the flower nut to where it's ready to fall off. Then put whatever tool in the groove. You cannot make this adjustment without taking the flower nut off. You will have to do it multiple times.
Carb cleaner on a rag would have cleared those pads and pressure plate is polished from slipping scuff with course sand paper. If you clutch pads are covered in oil you crank seals are leaking generaly coused by crank bearing wear due to exceeding rpm range engine is designed for .
Belive itor not, the pads are grabbed from both sides. The inner plate and the outer plate. Flipping them dosint really do anything unless you have the pads in their channels too tight and they dont fully contact the inner plate. You want them to be in there loose enough to wiggle them a bit. That way you get a full grab on them.
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I tightened the spring and the flower nut and it still won't engage. I was thinking maybe I need new pads? it's the only thing left that I can think of
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial the clutch does feel right. I can get it to start it just takes a few tries to get the clutch to engage and when it is running I can't go any faster than about 15mph cause when I get on the throttle the clutch just slips and as I said I've tightened the spring and the flower nut every way possible
That was the hard way to do a clutch adjustment. You should have left the cable hooked up and just use the lever to disengage the clutch to remove flower nut. Pliers are not needed, this can be done by hand.
Why not save your self s bunch of trouble leave them in the hub an spray them with brake clean them, then ruff them with the sandpaper, snd be done with it. That way any grease thats in the hub will also be removed.
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial no it's only when I hold the clutch handle so the bike can freely move. It squeals. The squealing goes away sometimes then starts up again
I've watched a lot of gas bike vids.. most of them explain things okay but the visuals suck.
As a person who is visually impaired i was very impressed by the up close and detailed shots you provided. So I now know exactly what things look like even if I can't see them. i know whats what..
Thanks dude just saved me £100, never knew about that little spring hole in the clutch shaft
Thank you this video helped me find the problem I was having
Use electronic motor cleaner as it leaves no residue behind or not suppose to leave anything behind. A lot of times I keep a bottle of 190 proof just for cleaning some parts. One for the part and two in my drink. LOL. Where the cable goes through the holder, I would tin that with a hard tubing around the cable even if I had to drill the hole bigger. One may also have to drill the guide bolt hole bigger as well for it to fit. This will keep the cable in great shape and the bolt will not damage the cable. Just a thought.... Great video as I can't wait to start building my 4 stroke bike.
Hey nice video and you did an excellent job on how to solve the problem with the clutch slipping I just got finish installing new brake pads on my motorize bike I adjusted the flower nut as tight as I could it didn't really solve the problem
I think the spring on my clutch shaft needs to be tighten so the is the next thing I am going to do I will let you know how things work out
Ok
Best explanation on how to adjust the flower nut I have ever seen. Very simple, but few know the trick. Great video. I understand now.
Quick tip don’t remove the clutch cable pull in the clutch and press the button then remove the flower nut makes it a lot easier as you don’t have to hold the clutch lever by the engine
Thanks a lot I had a brand new motor do that I’m glad I found this site…..I was ready to trash the motor. I got another motor unfortunately I have to drill out the screws because they stripped
Glad I can help that’s the point of this channel
Seems to me that sanding down the clutch pads leads to variable thicknesses and a pressure plate that doesn't make 100% contact. Using petroleum distillates to clean friction pads isn't a good idea it will leave behind oil residue. Acetone based cleaners are best.
Streching the spring dosint help and causes more stress on the spring. If its too compressed then replace it. Once you put the clutch plate back on its going to relax back into the same resistance that it has worn out into.
Just what I needed to do that was awesome thanks....
for the flower nut, just a sscrew driver and just tap the edge and it will turn so easy
you don't need to do that on the newer ones the flower nut has a groove in the middle you can use a flathead screwdriver
Dear Sir-You should use a standard screwdriver or something similar , to remove the pads. Those needlenose are tearing up the pad surface. Lastly, as cheap as these pads are, I would replace with new ones. I've owned a 49cc Grubbee 2 stroke since 2010 and it's been running great for over 12 years-John in Texas
Yah that’s true thanks for the heads up
Great video brother
Thank you 👍😎
Great video, nice and informative. I'd say you went a little too tight on the flower nut though. Usually you just tighten it by hand, pull the clutch arm and move it 2, 3, 4 more notches. Maybe a half turn. Other than that, great job keeping the work in frame and showing the preload spring adjustment. As a content creator though, I think you should have given Hughes Motorized a shoutout. It's pretty clear that's where you found the preload spring adjustment tip.
Fantastic fucking video. I just spent 90 on a new bottom end piece and that wasn't working either. I did this and it works like a charm. Been trying to fix it for 2 weeks. Keep up the great vids. Not many on motor bikes
Thanks for the feed back that’s what the channel is about
Good bro I find same my clutch
Your genius
thanks for the info you helped me out
Hey! Easy way to fix this and I know your going to go meh! lol Take some Wd40 since its a solvent. Spray down your clutch & pads. Use a brush and scrub them well. Then take some dawn dish soap and scrub it down fast with soapy water. After Take some rubbing acholic on a rag wipe it over once well. Use *Marine Grease* on your gear ring. Only about what you put on a toothbrush worth. Seal it up. Marine grease will stay on the gearing better not fly off. How does this bike even run! lol..... Bottom case is not even fully sealed? This thing must have made lean fuel issues?
fukc ahaha
Sup new sub
Thx u gonna help me out XD 😝
The hell u mean he helped you out??????
can you use petrol instead of break cleaner? It dries out quickly and cleans aswell.
Maybe but I’ve been using brake cleaner and it works good
Lol 😂 but great job man did you build this bike 🚲 did you order it? Or build it I wanna know!!!
Both
I have a problem with my motorbike. the clutch does not work when I press it. This video will help me To fix it????
YOU MAY NOT NEED NEW PADS!!!! I've watch several of these videos of changing the clutch pads. In all the videos the pads seem stuck in the clutch pad gear. It seems to me if they're stuck in the gear, the spring loaded outer sheet metal disc is not going to be able to push the pads against the inner flywheel disc. This being the case, the only friction you're going to get is against the outter sheet metal disc and it's no wonder the clutch is slipping. I have not tried this but most likely you could remove the clutch pads, sand the edges so they fit in their recessed slots easily, button it up and it would run fine. There's a good chance they're not wore out but just stuck in the gear and can no longer be pushed against the inside flywheel. ; )
That makes a lot of sense I will give it a try the next time I have to go into the clutch
Can you put grease or should you put grease in the hole where the bucking bar is?
You can grease the bucking bar and everything just don’t get the pads greased because it will cause your clutch to slip
Wire brush and you don't have to take em out, it works great for me
You need to take the glaze off both side!
? You could clean the pads but the pads are set!! Why sand them? Way to much effort.The pads usually last for years unless you bomb the clutch constantly. And yeah the flower nut should be turned one or two spaces clockwise. Your clutch plate is the metal behind the basket which is housed by the bell or cup. The front as you say is only used when you disengage hence the external spring to keep your cup from dragging. Good information on the “clutch” itself but not all springs line to the shaft. Just take the clutch out if you need to adjust it.
How do you like that healthy Cranbrook I got one just like it but the front rims bent I have yet to put a motor on it but that's what I'm going to do maybe four stroke I bought the bike at Walmart it was on sale for $77 I didn't know the front rim was back though somebody must have returned it the front room is really bad I guess that's why I was on sale
I should have read that before I sent it because I spelled the words wrong
One time I found a huffy Cranbrook for like 50.00 new at Walmart
Soon I will post a video on how to true a bike wheel
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I would like to see that video of you
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I would like to see a video about truing a front wheel on a huffy Cranbrook
One thing I would like some clarity on. The perch that the clutch cable runs through, you unscrew it and stick the punch in the notch of the clutch assembly. Here is my question - When you have the punch in the notch and you roll the bike back, are you supposed to hold the punch so the assembly doesn't roll back to?
I put the punch in there and rolled the bike back, but the assembly rolled back as well. Am i supposed to hold the punch and put force in the opposite direction while rolling the bike back?
There are little groves you put the punch in and the punch holds the threaded collar with the groves in it
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I don't think you understood my question. I figured it out. I clearly know that considering I asked about the punch. My question was regarding the pressure. I didn't loosen my flower nut at first. Hughes Motorized shows how to do it and I did it exactly like he did but didn't take the flower nut off. I put the punch in the groove and the assembly wanted to keep going backwards. I watched your video and to make it work you have to take your flower nut damn near off
Before doing the spring adjustment, you MUST take the clutch cover off, take the Phillips screw out, and loosen the flower nut to where it's ready to fall off.
Then put whatever tool in the groove. You cannot make this adjustment without taking the flower nut off. You will have to do it multiple times.
@@MikeNBikes yes you will need to apply some pressure to the tool
does contct cleaner work, instead of break cleaner?
I’m not to sure I’ve always used brake cleaner for this
How do you take the small bevel gear off
You need to use the the puller that came with the kit
Put rag between gears and loosen nut. Use supplied puller to remove gear
Carb cleaner on a rag would have cleared those pads and pressure plate is polished from slipping scuff with course sand paper. If you clutch pads are covered in oil you crank seals are leaking generaly coused by crank bearing wear due to exceeding rpm range engine is designed for .
Yah that’s good information
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial thats why i get paid the big bucks .
@@charlesyates6687 😂
just flip the pad over.the other side is good.there made to use two times.
Yah you could do that to
Belive itor not, the pads are grabbed from both sides. The inner plate and the outer plate. Flipping them dosint really do anything unless you have the pads in their channels too tight and they dont fully contact the inner plate. You want them to be in there loose enough to wiggle them a bit. That way you get a full grab on them.
do you have to engage the clutch because if not wouldn't it be hard to move the tire
Yeah
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I tightened the spring and the flower nut and it still won't engage. I was thinking maybe I need new pads? it's the only thing left that I can think of
It’s sounds like you need to back off the flower nut until the clutch feels right
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial the clutch does feel right. I can get it to start it just takes a few tries to get the clutch to engage and when it is running I can't go any faster than about 15mph cause when I get on the throttle the clutch just slips and as I said I've tightened the spring and the flower nut every way possible
@@Westhelockpicker it sounds like the spring is loose
That was the hard way to do a clutch adjustment. You should have left the cable hooked up and just use the lever to disengage the clutch to remove flower nut. Pliers are not needed, this can be done by hand.
Apparently sometimes the flower nut is not enough
Why not save your self s bunch of trouble leave them in the hub an spray them with brake clean them, then ruff them with the sandpaper, snd be done with it. That way any grease thats in the hub will also be removed.
where can i buy high temperature red clutch friction pads
www.bikeberry.com/products/heavy-duty-high-temperature-clutch-friction-pads
They are sold out right now
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial where different company can i buy more in stock
@@Johnjohn-eo6mb www.amazon.com/dp/B010SQ4X4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_YZ7CNMHCR5S4MT85E0Y8
U forgot to put the smaller spring on clutch cable before u put it in the arm
Why can't you sand them without taking them off.?
You have to do both side and don’t sand to much
Why does my bike squeak when I try to start it up
Does it happen when you let the clutch out
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial no it's only when I hold the clutch handle so the bike can freely move. It squeals. The squealing goes away sometimes then starts up again
I would check and clean the clutch
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial I'll check it tmrw and get back to you
What you need to torque the heads at on on a 80cc
Stock head 12-13 foot pounds
After market head 15-16 foot pounds
@@EverythingOffRoadOfficial thanks didn't know
Yup no problem
IF YOUR CLUTCH IS SLIPING OR DRAGING ROLL BIKE FORWARD.ROLLING IT BACK WILL CAUSE IT TO SLIP AND DRAG..
Low volume at times wrong tools also beginners like me hard to follow first motorized bike
Im thinking about making a updated clutch video thanks for the info I’ll try to fix some of those things
Chuck's motrized bicycle repairs
Tampa florida
Your genius