having rebuilt motorcycle and quad engines for over 40 years, i must say your video is extremely accurate and informational, you covered every aspect of the strip down and rebuild, well done great video, subbed.
I haven't had to rebuild a clutch yet thank heavens, But its good to know how it's done for future work. I'm sure I will half to in the future as I have beefed up the motor a bit, And the clutch slips from time to time. Thanks Tony. Good video
My favorite part to rebuild. Thhs is where the learning is, getting to REALLY know the ins and outs of your engine. The first time sucks but totally worth it to me. I forgot to grease the bucking bar and it mushroomed and cracked the camshaft the ball had and indentation.😊
What a genius design this motor is to fit between the cranks of a standard bicycle. I believe it was a German design from the 1920s, that betters modern Japanese designs in terms of weight distribution and supreme compactness.
An old hack is if any metal parts like the shaft on the bearings are put in the freezer and frozen before reinstalling ,the case will go together very easy . Works like a charm .Good video .
1:39 A better tip for any riders out there, instead of potentially damaging the flower but just push the clutch arm in and you can remove it with you fingers. Those Chinesium flower nuts don’t keep shape very well when you beat em up with a flathead and hammer
@ 10:29. Are you sure that's installed correctly? I recently had to crack open an engine to replace my clutch shaft assembly and dealt with this same problem. It was driving me nuts because I couldn't figure out why one of the woodruff keys would only go in fully on one side and not the other. It turned out to be an issue with the bearing and shaft not fully seated in the housing/case all the way and a minor preload spring adjustment. Installing it your way caused the clutch gear to disengage the shaft mid drive and the woodruff got destroyed. Why skimp on that scene then immediately jump to putting the clutch gear on pretending that its flush in the slot? That doesn't seem right at all. You might wanna redo that part, You wilen.
At the higher RPMs at the crankshaft is unbalanced you will shake it apart and break it but if it's balanced you get them higher RPMs without any problems
Allot easier than I thought.Thanks Tony.I've never split a case before.Does anyone else put a tablespoon of gear oil inside the clutch spring area?I do that for the seals and bearings.(Just remove the cable adjustment/holder and put it in).Well Over 3000 miles so far,and I ride Allot of hills.I still grease the ball and bucking bar as needed.
With the clutch what would you recommend it threaded to. Thread all the way or middle or just barely threaded onto itself.those two pieces with the small bucking bar between the big spring.
Hi Tony! Great video. Question about the shaft spring. The collar that adjusts the preload on the spring appeared loose on the new one. I noticed you didn’t give any attention to it or discuss it before reassembling the case. Wouldn’t that have been a good opportunity to snug it a little to ensure you had good grab on the clutch plate?
@@tonytaylor5087 Cool! I hope all is well. Great to see the ongoing content! I like the segmented approach…no need to build Rome in a day, right? BTW, this is David…the guy the shared the double-bracket tank-mounting idea and created a complete lighting system powered by a cordless tool battery. This my gaming channel account.
Hello. I agree with Hardware2. A little moe information on what you should be looking for when setting the clutch tube assembly, such as run out on both sides and maybe some more info on the preload would be very beneficial for someone doing this for the first time. This was a very good video though. Very informative. Thanks.
I don’t see a need to replace the guts unless it was damaged from botched repair. The main spring can be tightened externally. Also guts can be removed without splitting cases.
Yes, unfortunately I saw this video after my trial to take apart the motor . The magneto was so stuck that I partially damaged the thread and the nut. Can you please advise how to release stuck magneto?
Great video! When I removed my clutch basket i discovered what looks like dirty spent grease(red & tacky) or maybe chain lube seeping between clutch shaft and bearing. Is this normal or do I need to replace/service something ?
So first, i wanna apologize for not knowing proper terms i have a 2 stroke kit that runs amazing untill today. My clutch fell apart. The stud that the fly wheel sits on broke off and im confused on why and if its replaceable. Please help
The first time I did this ( around 2012) I seem to remember having a real hard time separating the crankcase parts. Everything else was pretty much like this. The tool provided is definitely not well made and very hard to use . Have to order another, a little better but not by much. I'm imagining that issue with it is been resolved! Otherwise, I wish I could watch this video at the time. All I have was black and white pictures
How do or where do you buy a pressed clutch gear , cause I don't see any way for it 5o come out and the two I bought off eBay don't have the studs and the back plate on a motorized engine do they come stock pressed or can you take the apart, please anybody let me know thanks
So nobody knows how a big gear. Beveled clutch gear center with the studs come out of does the studs come out cause I can't seem to find one that's not pressed from the factory please reply
Has anyone had issues with the new clutches not fitting the shaft .i bought a stage 3 kit ran fine then the clutch bearing seized. bought a new one from bike berry and the shaft is the wrong size as is the key
Jesus, do not listen to this guy at 13:27. The flower nut and it's grooves are the size they are because when they're locked into the head of the Phillips screw it holds your clutch position/adjustment. First, attach the drive sprocket side. That will include your ball bearing, bucking bar and clutch cover with the cam shaft/actuator arm in it. Press the arm inwards, and it disengages the clutch which will allow you to turn it with your fingers. Do it his way, and don't worry, BBR will be very happy to sell you another flower nut.
wait a minute your telling people that they have to disassemble the complete engine to replace the clutch assembly? that's ridiculous, just pop the assemble out with the one bearing in tow and make sure to double check both bearings as it's not uncommon that they may need replacing, and double check that the spring tension pin in the shaft assemble is perfectly aligned and cencered that goes for new and used. respectfully Paulie T.
Heck if you have it ripped apart balance the crank while your in there. Your motor can archive higher rpms. In stead of 4500 redline you'll go up around 12000 rpm which you'll double your power of motor. And the biggest thing on clutch to watch for. Is flower screw. Make sure it does not come out past the pressure plate. If it does I mean even a hair. It will mess with the pressure plates yes plates from sandwixhing together. It might not even leave a Grove. Here's how you'll know. When motor is cold clutch grabs great. Once it heats up doesn't grab nothing Let it cool off and it grabs again. It's the screw hitting the 2nd pressure plate. Do this and it wont slip and you don't need to do rhe 600 lbs out board set up. Also use brake pads off a car. Cut out the pads for the clutch. They wil grab 100 times better.
having rebuilt motorcycle and quad engines for over 40 years, i must say your video is extremely accurate and informational, you covered every aspect of the strip down and rebuild, well done great video, subbed.
I haven't had to rebuild a clutch yet thank heavens, But its good to know how it's done for future work. I'm sure I will half to in the future as I have beefed up the motor a bit, And the clutch slips from time to time. Thanks Tony. Good video
My favorite part to rebuild. Thhs is where the learning is, getting to REALLY know the ins and outs of your engine. The first time sucks but totally worth it to me. I forgot to grease the bucking bar and it mushroomed and cracked the camshaft the ball had and indentation.😊
Agreed! It’s definitely a time where you start to really understand how it works!
What a genius design this motor is to fit between the cranks of a standard bicycle. I believe it was a German design from the 1920s, that betters modern Japanese designs in terms of weight distribution and supreme compactness.
An old hack is if any metal parts like the shaft on the bearings are put in the freezer and frozen before reinstalling ,the case will go together very easy . Works like a charm .Good video .
That’s interesting. I’ll try it 😃
Yes this helps a lot ❤
1:39 A better tip for any riders out there, instead of potentially damaging the flower but just push the clutch arm in and you can remove it with you fingers. Those Chinesium flower nuts don’t keep shape very well when you beat em up with a flathead and hammer
True! I totally forget to do that 😅
I noticed that, and you are right. I use to adjust it on the fly as my clutch wear out
Very helpful
Thank you Tony for this video it helped a lot because it was way more informative than all the other videos on UA-cam.
Yes that did help me alot you did a great job thank you 👍
@ 10:29. Are you sure that's installed correctly? I recently had to crack open an engine to replace my clutch shaft assembly and dealt with this same problem. It was driving me nuts because I couldn't figure out why one of the woodruff keys would only go in fully on one side and not the other. It turned out to be an issue with the bearing and shaft not fully seated in the housing/case all the way and a minor preload spring adjustment. Installing it your way caused the clutch gear to disengage the shaft mid drive and the woodruff got destroyed. Why skimp on that scene then immediately jump to putting the clutch gear on pretending that its flush in the slot? That doesn't seem right at all. You might wanna redo that part, You wilen.
You are the best info I have found for this engines
👍 good channel 🎉
Great information. Very helpful video.
great video with a lot of info step by step
Good job and thank you
Great video as always tony!
How do u remove screaw in that eagin
I have a question. My small bevel gear that is next to the big clutch gear .do you grease those gears or no ? Thank you .❤
Thank you very much .
Yeah just wondering if you can make a video about removing the governor so it goes faster I have a 100cc motor and it only is topping out at 20mph
Can you also do a video on balancing a crankshaft or sell balanced crankshafts
At the higher RPMs at the crankshaft is unbalanced you will shake it apart and break it but if it's balanced you get them higher RPMs without any problems
Allot easier than I thought.Thanks Tony.I've never split a case before.Does anyone else put a tablespoon of gear oil inside the clutch spring area?I do that for the seals and bearings.(Just remove the cable adjustment/holder and put it in).Well Over 3000 miles so far,and I ride Allot of hills.I still grease the ball and bucking bar as needed.
Never thought about gear oil. But yeah you have definitely put the miles on so it seems to work. Thanks for the tip!
I thought of this today will do it now I know it don't bust seals 🎉🎉
With the clutch what would you recommend it threaded to. Thread all the way or middle or just barely threaded onto itself.those two pieces with the small bucking bar between the big spring.
it helped! thanks
Hi Tony! Great video. Question about the shaft spring. The collar that adjusts the preload on the spring appeared loose on the new one. I noticed you didn’t give any attention to it or discuss it before reassembling the case. Wouldn’t that have been a good opportunity to snug it a little to ensure you had good grab on the clutch plate?
Good point. I should make that a short video.
@@tonytaylor5087 Cool! I hope all is well. Great to see the ongoing content! I like the segmented approach…no need to build Rome in a day, right? BTW, this is David…the guy the shared the double-bracket tank-mounting idea and created a complete lighting system powered by a cordless tool battery. This my gaming channel account.
Hello. I agree with Hardware2. A little moe information on what you should be looking for when setting the clutch tube assembly, such as run out on both sides and maybe some more info on the preload would be very beneficial for someone doing this for the first time.
This was a very good video though. Very informative. Thanks.
Very nice 👍
I don’t see a need to replace the guts unless it was damaged from botched repair. The main spring can be tightened externally. Also guts can be removed without splitting cases.
No winter videos you must be cold maybe you can do video on Tracer Ace sometime
Yes, unfortunately I saw this video after my trial to take apart the motor . The magneto was so stuck that I partially damaged the thread and the nut. Can you please advise how to release stuck magneto?
how much are these kits i know i can handle that job, i work on turntables that are much more intricate
I put the link in the description so you can check it out. 😊
Great video! When I removed my clutch basket i discovered what looks like dirty spent grease(red & tacky) or maybe chain lube seeping between clutch shaft and bearing. Is this normal or do I need to replace/service something ?
Hi im uncle Lee in BC ....iv have qwesgen how do you eyper a strit head bolti tryed evey thing it just wont stsy titened
Can you bring back to mz60 clone expansion chamber please
My 80cc engine lost power all of a sudden any fixes or suggestions?
So first, i wanna apologize for not knowing proper terms i have a 2 stroke kit that runs amazing untill today. My clutch fell apart. The stud that the fly wheel sits on broke off and im confused on why and if its replaceable. Please help
The first time I did this ( around 2012) I seem to remember having a real hard time separating the crankcase parts. Everything else was pretty much like this. The tool provided is definitely not well made and very hard to use . Have to order another, a little better but not by much. I'm imagining that issue with it is been resolved! Otherwise, I wish I could watch this video at the time. All I have was black and white pictures
How do or where do you buy a pressed clutch gear , cause I don't see any way for it 5o come out and the two I bought off eBay don't have the studs and the back plate on a motorized engine do they come stock pressed or can you take the apart, please anybody let me know thanks
So nobody knows how a big gear. Beveled clutch gear center with the studs come out of does the studs come out cause I can't seem to find one that's not pressed from the factory please reply
got a new kit here an the clutch is stuck it free rolles clutch in or clutch out can anyone help
Has anyone had issues with the new clutches not fitting the shaft .i bought a stage 3 kit ran fine then the clutch bearing seized. bought a new one from bike berry and the shaft is the wrong size as is the key
helpful
Jesus, do not listen to this guy at 13:27. The flower nut and it's grooves are the size they are because when they're locked into the head of the Phillips screw it holds your clutch position/adjustment.
First, attach the drive sprocket side. That will include your ball bearing, bucking bar and clutch cover with the cam shaft/actuator arm in it. Press the arm inwards, and it disengages the clutch which will allow you to turn it with your fingers.
Do it his way, and don't worry, BBR will be very happy to sell you another flower nut.
Lock the bolt edge
wait a minute your telling people that they have to disassemble the complete engine to replace the clutch assembly? that's ridiculous, just pop the assemble out with the one bearing in tow and make sure to double check both bearings as it's not uncommon that they may need replacing, and double check that the spring tension pin in the shaft assemble is perfectly aligned and cencered that goes for new and used. respectfully Paulie T.
😅
😅
Heck if you have it ripped apart balance the crank while your in there. Your motor can archive higher rpms. In stead of 4500 redline you'll go up around 12000 rpm which you'll double your power of motor. And the biggest thing on clutch to watch for. Is flower screw. Make sure it does not come out past the pressure plate. If it does I mean even a hair. It will mess with the pressure plates yes plates from sandwixhing together. It might not even leave a Grove. Here's how you'll know. When motor is cold clutch grabs great. Once it heats up doesn't grab nothing
Let it cool off and it grabs again. It's the screw hitting the 2nd pressure plate. Do this and it wont slip and you don't need to do rhe 600 lbs out board set up. Also use brake pads off a car. Cut out the pads for the clutch. They wil grab 100 times better.