Shows how to replace the countershaft oil seal on KTM off-road motorcycles using the Tokyo Offroad Countershaft Seal Press Too (CSPT). www.tokyooffroa...
I'm new to your channel and still catching up on your videos, but I can say I'm honestly impressed with your attention to detail and cleanliness. Very professional and very well done.
I learned to clean the threads in the shaft from personal experience. My bolt wouldn't seat all the way. Left the domed washer without enough pressure. That left the pressure off the spacer behind the sprocket and let oil pasted the oil seal.
Very well done “how to” vid as always. And the tool looks very handy. Ive already had a chance to use your heim joint, wheel bearing and swingarm bearing tools with great results.
Great video. Thanks for the torq value 60nm too. Excellent way you do your job sir. Wish all mechanics applying same Heart while working on my bike, so i could be completely ignorant 😁 instead of learning constantly how to repair motorcycles
Another great video and one to refer back to while I work on my bike. I always check your videos for torque settings. Quicker then sifting through the maintenance Manuel
The tool you made is brilliant! I had a local machinist make me a driver using some of the same principles (not that I'm brilliant, far from it). The seal sits on the smaller bit which is the same height as the seal, the center is bored so it slips over the shaft and the OD is larger than the seal so it can only go on flush. Mine is tapped on but I like the control of the bolt. Thanks for sharing. Liked and subscribed. Cheers!
Yes, the seals are quite tricky to install without a suitable tool due to the large size and it can be quite easy to damage them just if not careful. A suitable tool makes it so much easier.
@@stephanbaumann6713 - Thanks for your interest. The Tokyo Offroad Countershaft Oil Seal Press Tool is available for sale here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
Man I got a vine behind my front sprocket and it roached my countershaft seal. Luckily it didn’t start leaking until I literally got the bike in the bed of the truck. So I was able to lean it over and tie the bike down to stop the leaking. Got home, drained the rest of the oil, now im waiting on the new countershaft seal kit! That was a first for me. Usually I’ll let them go until they leak on their own then change them but this one had help!
Great video and explanation. The Dirt Tricks dome washer is supposed to fix this common problem. The washer gets too flat from being reused and just wears over time. Supposedly the Dirt Tricks dome washer is made of a lot stronger spring steel.
Just a heads up. Loctite owner has been hard at work lobbying to shut down offroad trails in CO. Some riders would appreciate, if you didn't advertise them. Thanks for the video!
Could you quote what Jeff Slavens said about Loctite as I haven’t heard of this before. I did try Googling but couldn’t find anything. Note that I have no connection with Loctite and all of their products which I use I purchase at retail cost. I do not actively advertise Loctite products, simply share information regarding what product I use on my bikes.
Thanks for the link to the video. In it Jeff Slavens says "The dick who owns Loctite has been trying to shut down trails in SW Colorado". I'm wondering specifically who Jeff referring to. The owner of Loctite is Henkel AG (Loctite was acquired in 1997), but I'm guessing he doesn't mean Henkel. Currently the key Henkel Loctite executives listed are Robert Aller (CFO) and Louis Baccei President of R&D. BOD members are listed here: www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/people.asp?privcapId=285877 . So who is it that Jeff is referring to and were they using their own money, or corporate Henkel Loctite money to do the campaigning?
Of course my replacement didn't come with a new crush washer.... However, I just replaced my sprocket and didn't remove the rear wheel, just turned the adjustment bolts all the way in, not sure how much easier it is but if you are replacing the front sprocket and/or chain you will need to do so anyway to get the adjustment correct. Also you can just use a zip tie to hold the chain out of the way. The lazy man usually finds the easiest way to do something or so I am told.
The install difficulty is not getting the seal flush, rather due to the size of the seal it's easy to get it canted while driving it in and then ruin the seal. I've seen quite a few UA-cam videos of people running in to exactly this problem. Using the Tokyo Offroad press tool minimizes the chance of any install issues and makes it much easier.
I used some medium strength blue Loctite 243 for this. I didn't want to use high strength as it would make future replacements more difficult (require heat to remove the seal). As mentioned in the video this is optional. If there are any scratches it's definitely a good idea...
@@TokyoOffroad Yes, red is too much. What I'm saying is that there is a locktight product (green) that works well for this sort of work, bearing journal fit, etc. It is very thin, and wicks into scratches like you mentioned might be in the case. Heat is not needed, despite locktights description saying it is medium to high strength. I use it all the time to help with bearing fit in bores that may be less than stellar, or where I want to be sure the inner or outer race stays put on the shaft or bore.
I purchased the seal installation tool before it came with the bolt for for strokes. Can you tell be what size bolt you need? I couldn’t figure it out by the oem parts finder. Thanks.
@@TokyoOffroad yes sorry should have finished watching before commenting. Also Mark any chance you can make a video of replacing the KTM fuel pump filter? Thanks in advance your videos are so helpful
You should clean that area of seal before you taking old seal out for getting most of the dirt out. dirt can easily fell in especially laying the bike on its side like that... Other than that good video.
I'm not familiar with the 790 Adventure. Typically countershaft seal leaks are either due to the seal wearing out after high hours in difficult conditions, the chain tension being too tight, or the countershaft sprocket being loose and not apply sufficient pressure to the internal o-ring to compress it and make a seal. As shown in the video it's pretty easy to fix and the required parts are relatively inexpensive. Note that the press tool shown in the video will only work on off-road models (EXC, EXC-F, XC, XC-W). The 690, 790 and 890 have a different countershaft design (nut is used to secure the sprocket instead of a bolt).
@@TokyoOffroad damn… yeah… an odd thing to have issues on so many models.. but after I showed interest on auction. They sent me a quote for shipping and added in.. ohh the bike has an oil leak that’s well known! 🤦🏻♂️ guess if I buy I need to fab or make a tool. I do have bearing installation tools.. see what others are doing..
Thank you for the video. I'm actually doing this right now but dont have the tool to remove the seal like you did. Is there an alternative to this and also an alternative to fitting the seal back in as I do not have the tool as weel
An over-tight chain will shorten the life of the seal. Yes, pressure washer pointed directly at seals is not good and will possibly force dirt into the seal.
I do sell the countershaft oil seal tool shown in the video on the Tokyo Offroad webshop, if you'd like to buy one: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/ The other option is to hammer in the seal using an appropriately sized socket, but it's very easy to get the seal canted. If this happens stop immediately and try to correct it, or you will ruin the seal.
really like the drive tool you,ve made, had exactly the problem you described, canting the seal tapping it in with a socket, and ended up worsening the housing scratches, someone else had also had the same problem previously on my 530.
The Duke - If the seal skirt is bent and distorted I recommend buying a new seal and try the install again. If the case seal seating area is scratched you can apply some thread lock to the seal skirt before install as I mentioned in the video. Installing the new seal straight using a socket and hammer is not easy which is why I developed the press tool. If you’d like to purchase one they are available on the Tokyo Offroad Webshop and happy to ship worldwide. If you’re going to use a a socket and hammer then I suggest you go very carefully and check the seal alignment after every tap.
Thanks for your interest. Yes, the tool is available for sale on the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
da - The use of Loctite to retain seals of this type and bearings is common and not something I invented. The advantages of using Loctite include 1) It will hold the seal in place better and 2) If there is any minor damage to the case (scratches caused during seal removal) it will provide a better seal. Only a small amount of Loctite is required and you must be careful not to get any on the rubber part of the seal, as mentioned in the video. If Loctite 243 (medium) seal removal and bore cleaning will still straightforward. But it’s totally optional as I noted in the video.
Ya its really common to use low strength loctite to seal/glue metal seals in place. That being said using it on a rubber seal accomplishes nothing lol.
People should really try to be a better mechanic before posting comments. Your use of loctite, and description of why to use it is spot on on this video.
I'm new to your channel and still catching up on your videos, but I can say I'm honestly impressed with your attention to detail and cleanliness. Very professional and very well done.
Thanks! Please to hear that you are enjoying videos.
I've always hated using a socket to get the seal seated. Love that install tool. I have to do this job soon so getting the tool now. Thanks!
I learned to clean the threads in the shaft from personal experience. My bolt wouldn't seat all the way. Left the domed washer without enough pressure. That left the pressure off the spacer behind the sprocket and let oil pasted the oil seal.
Very well done “how to” vid as always. And the tool looks very handy.
Ive already had a chance to use your heim joint, wheel bearing and swingarm bearing tools with great results.
Thank's for the positive feedback regarding the video. I'm pleased you're enjoying using the tools and finding them easy to use.
$50 bucks + tax and shipping ?? too high.
Great video. Thanks for the torq value
60nm too.
Excellent way you do your job sir. Wish all mechanics applying same Heart while working on my bike, so i could be completely ignorant 😁 instead of learning constantly how to repair motorcycles
Another great video and one to refer back to while I work on my bike. I always check your videos for torque settings. Quicker then sifting through the maintenance Manuel
Awesome video! I couldn’t understand if you said 16 or 60 Newton Meters, but then you made it clear by saying that’s quite tight!
The tool you made is brilliant! I had a local machinist make me a driver using some of the same principles (not that I'm brilliant, far from it). The seal sits on the smaller bit which is the same height as the seal, the center is bored so it slips over the shaft and the OD is larger than the seal so it can only go on flush. Mine is tapped on but I like the control of the bolt. Thanks for sharing. Liked and subscribed. Cheers!
Yes, the seals are quite tricky to install without a suitable tool due to the large size and it can be quite easy to damage them just if not careful. A suitable tool makes it so much easier.
@@TokyoOffroad where did you get this tool? where can i buy it? :-)
@@stephanbaumann6713 - Thanks for your interest. The Tokyo Offroad Countershaft Oil Seal Press Tool is available for sale here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
Funny you posted this now. I just had to do this yesterday on a ktm350 snowbike. Sounds like it's a very common issue.
Man I got a vine behind my front sprocket and it roached my countershaft seal. Luckily it didn’t start leaking until I literally got the bike in the bed of the truck. So I was able to lean it over and tie the bike down to stop the leaking. Got home, drained the rest of the oil, now im waiting on the new countershaft seal kit! That was a first for me. Usually I’ll let them go until they leak on their own then change them but this one had help!
Helped me do the job on my 17 TE 300. Thank you Sir! Cheers from California!
Just noticed my 450 sxf is leaking from this same place. Brilliant video
Great video, clear and easy to follow. Thanks for posting. 👍🏻
Thank you for the video and all the other videos you make. Got the tool in the post, so thank you for that too 👍
Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos and thanks for your purchase too!
Thx for posting. Clean the area with a rag BEFORE removal of the seal not after.
Great video and explanation. The Dirt Tricks dome washer is supposed to fix this common problem. The washer gets too flat from being reused and just wears over time. Supposedly the Dirt Tricks dome washer is made of a lot stronger spring steel.
Another tool sold! I think I have the full set for my bike now and it's only a month old. lol
Thanks for your order! It's good to be prepared :-)
great, clears it up for me , cheers
Another top shelf video. Interesting tool.
Good explained , good video !
Just a heads up. Loctite owner has been hard at work lobbying to shut down offroad trails in CO. Some riders would appreciate, if you didn't advertise them.
Thanks for the video!
jarel nomeh - That’s the first Ive heard of that. Please can you quote a source of your information.
@@TokyoOffroad Slavens Racing has mentioned that in one of his videos. He's local.
Could you quote what Jeff Slavens said about Loctite as I haven’t heard of this before. I did try Googling but couldn’t find anything. Note that I have no connection with Loctite and all of their products which I use I purchase at retail cost. I do not actively advertise Loctite products, simply share information regarding what product I use on my bikes.
@@TokyoOffroad ua-cam.com/video/SfnZxTGbTxY/v-deo.html
Thanks for the link to the video. In it Jeff Slavens says "The dick who owns Loctite has been trying to shut down trails in SW Colorado". I'm wondering specifically who Jeff referring to. The owner of Loctite is Henkel AG (Loctite was acquired in 1997), but I'm guessing he doesn't mean Henkel. Currently the key Henkel Loctite executives listed are Robert Aller (CFO) and Louis Baccei President of R&D. BOD members are listed here: www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/people.asp?privcapId=285877 . So who is it that Jeff is referring to and were they using their own money, or corporate Henkel Loctite money to do the campaigning?
Nice, now just to wait for my seal kit arriving for the 250
Thank you very much, now i know where the O-Ring blong.
Of course my replacement didn't come with a new crush washer.... However, I just replaced my sprocket and didn't remove the rear wheel, just turned the adjustment bolts all the way in, not sure how much easier it is but if you are replacing the front sprocket and/or chain you will need to do so anyway to get the adjustment correct. Also you can just use a zip tie to hold the chain out of the way. The lazy man usually finds the easiest way to do something or so I am told.
Are you saying 16 or 60 for the torque spec? I'm assuming 60.
Edit: Found it in the manual - 60 nm
Muy buenos vídeos saludos desde España 👍
noticed this on my ride today. slight leak, but going on a ride again tomorrow. how severe of an issue is this?
How is the ring called u left in there bc i removed it
love your vids but as long as u flush, its fine, just did it on my 300. Make sure the seal is flush dont need all the special tools :D
The install difficulty is not getting the seal flush, rather due to the size of the seal it's easy to get it canted while driving it in and then ruin the seal. I've seen quite a few UA-cam videos of people running in to exactly this problem. Using the Tokyo Offroad press tool minimizes the chance of any install issues and makes it much easier.
Green locktight is made for sealing bores on journals.
I used some medium strength blue Loctite 243 for this. I didn't want to use high strength as it would make future replacements more difficult (require heat to remove the seal). As mentioned in the video this is optional. If there are any scratches it's definitely a good idea...
@@TokyoOffroad Yes, red is too much. What I'm saying is that there is a locktight product (green) that works well for this sort of work, bearing journal fit, etc. It is very thin, and wicks into scratches like you mentioned might be in the case. Heat is not needed, despite locktights description saying it is medium to high strength. I use it all the time to help with bearing fit in bores that may be less than stellar, or where I want to be sure the inner or outer race stays put on the shaft or bore.
Is that the horn relocated just above the Countershaft sprocket?
Yes. The stock position is in front of the right radiator, but is prone to damage
Hammer top side a little so bottom is poking out bend the end of a file 90 and pull as hard as you can. Sounds sketchy but got it out
or buy a seal puller for $10 lol
How can I get one of those press tools you made.
I will buy one if you would make one for me PLEASE.
I purchased the seal installation tool before it came with the bolt for for strokes. Can you tell be what size bolt you need? I couldn’t figure it out by the oem parts finder. Thanks.
M10x1.5
hey Mark clean video as usual...i need to do this and will do it tomorrow. Didn't you forget to put the black o-ring?
never mind just saw you put it in! sorry
Oli M - Yes, the o-ring was installed...
@@TokyoOffroad yes sorry should have finished watching before commenting. Also Mark any chance you can make a video of replacing the KTM fuel pump filter? Thanks in advance your videos are so helpful
You should clean that area of seal before you taking old seal out for getting most of the dirt out. dirt can easily fell in especially laying the bike on its side like that... Other than that good video.
He’s usually very meticulous… I was surprised he didn’t.
Thank you. Went easy.
Is this the same leak as a 790 Adv? I’m looking to buy one now on yahoo auction. They told me it has the countershaft leak.
I'm not familiar with the 790 Adventure. Typically countershaft seal leaks are either due to the seal wearing out after high hours in difficult conditions, the chain tension being too tight, or the countershaft sprocket being loose and not apply sufficient pressure to the internal o-ring to compress it and make a seal. As shown in the video it's pretty easy to fix and the required parts are relatively inexpensive. Note that the press tool shown in the video will only work on off-road models (EXC, EXC-F, XC, XC-W). The 690, 790 and 890 have a different countershaft design (nut is used to secure the sprocket instead of a bolt).
@@TokyoOffroad damn… yeah… an odd thing to have issues on so many models.. but after I showed interest on auction. They sent me a quote for shipping and added in.. ohh the bike has an oil leak that’s well known! 🤦🏻♂️ guess if I buy I need to fab or make a tool. I do have bearing installation tools.. see what others are doing..
Thank you for the video. I'm actually doing this right now but dont have the tool to remove the seal like you did. Is there an alternative to this and also an alternative to fitting the seal back in as I do not have the tool as weel
I’m 2 years to late mate, but a socket will do the trick
@@jiegodfrey Thanks mate.. got it done as you recommended
Hey can I use the wheel bearing press tool that you sell to do the same thing? Is that piece the same size?
No, sorry but the seal size is different from the wheel bearing size, plus the countershaft press tool needs to be able to fit over the countershaft.
@@TokyoOffroad dang. : (
mine is also leaking (KTM EXC 250 6d 2019). Do you know how this happen? My suspicion is on the use of pressure washer
An over-tight chain will shorten the life of the seal. Yes, pressure washer pointed directly at seals is not good and will possibly force dirt into the seal.
On the first 4 sec what is that on the air box
Something to support the legs but I can't remember how is called
Dan Grad - They’re called Steg Pegz
What size thread chaser are you using? Thank you!
M10x1.5
Excellent, thank you!
great, but what if I don't have such tool? any alternatives for pushing that in?
I do sell the countershaft oil seal tool shown in the video on the Tokyo Offroad webshop, if you'd like to buy one: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
The other option is to hammer in the seal using an appropriately sized socket, but it's very easy to get the seal canted. If this happens stop immediately and try to correct it, or you will ruin the seal.
really like the drive tool you,ve made, had exactly the problem you described, canting the seal tapping it in with a socket, and ended up worsening the housing scratches, someone else had also had the same problem previously on my 530.
I screwed up the seal landing, deep scratches, how do you get it back in round and clear?
The Duke - If the seal skirt is bent and distorted I recommend buying a new seal and try the install again. If the case seal seating area is scratched you can apply some thread lock to the seal skirt before install as I mentioned in the video. Installing the new seal straight using a socket and hammer is not easy which is why I developed the press tool. If you’d like to purchase one they are available on the Tokyo Offroad Webshop and happy to ship worldwide. If you’re going to use a a socket and hammer then I suggest you go very carefully and check the seal alignment after every tap.
Superb
Hi, what type of moly grease do you use? Thanks
I use Honda Moly 60. Unfortunately it’s no longer available
anyone else catch that he didint put a new counter shaft o-ring in before putting the new seal on?
No, because I did put a new o-ring in...
What fell out @ 2:04 when he pulled the sprocket off ? Was it a lump of dirt or Rock?
It was a small stone. You can see it on top of the chain before the sprocket is removed.
@@TokyoOffroad Dam strait! I can see it! I just hate it when stuff flies off when I'm working on stuff! Great stuff you do! Thanks!
is that the horn right by the gear?
Mike McKay - Yes, the horn has been relocated from the stock position in front of the right radiator.
Pretty smart, I am going to do that. Thank you!
were is new o ring
All I see is a Automated chain Oiler
LOL
We need to remove the volcano
Mechanic with OCD. I thought I'm on my own 😎
1 thumb down? You must have missed a critical step somewhere.
I’m guessing they know a better way, but don’t want to share the details ;-)
Are you selling those tools? I'd sure like to have one.
Thanks for your interest. Yes, the tool is available for sale on the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
Machinists are great. I chose welding, that was a bad choice.
ok i now now lol
Do NOT use loctite on that seal !!!
Is NOT necesary, OMG
da - The use of Loctite to retain seals of this type and bearings is common and not something I invented. The advantages of using Loctite include 1) It will hold the seal in place better and 2) If there is any minor damage to the case (scratches caused during seal removal) it will provide a better seal. Only a small amount of Loctite is required and you must be careful not to get any on the rubber part of the seal, as mentioned in the video. If Loctite 243 (medium) seal removal and bore cleaning will still straightforward. But it’s totally optional as I noted in the video.
Ya its really common to use low strength loctite to seal/glue metal seals in place. That being said using it on a rubber seal accomplishes nothing lol.
People should really try to be a better mechanic before posting comments. Your use of loctite, and description of why to use it is spot on on this video.