You’re a true pro! So happy I found this video. The guys at my HD dealership can’t seem to answer my questions. Your videos (#1-3) not only answered my questions , but showed me so much more.
Thanks heaps for the positive feedback mate🙌👍 That right there is the main reason I started out with the UA-cam stuff. I aim to go into more detail & explain things further with other videos in the future. If there is any I can help with don't hesitate to ask me on here or shoot me Direct Message on Instagram (profile link in this video description) & I would be more than happy to try and help you out 🇦🇺💪🏍💨
Excellent tutorial, wicked bike. I have a 2022 Lowrider S 117 cube. I was going to stay 117" CR cam,5.5's, intake and pipe, but you're killing me with these big cube kits, and videos.👍👍👍
Warrenties about up on two of my bikes and am waiting for my CR 512’s to show up. Putting one in my 22 Street Glide and another in my 22 LowRider ST. Looks like they’ll both work out great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best explanation I've seen on compression ratios and the effects that cam timing has on end result. Well done Tommy. New subscriber after stumbling across your chanel while researching DDHD for servicing and Stage 2 on a new to me 2015 Streetglide Special as it's full service history is there. Looks like it'll be in good hands. 👍 How many out there still love a Twin Cam!
I think the CR512 in the 131 kit makes a perfect combination for great numbers. Incremental power or torque from that base is gonna be tougher to obtain. I appreciate your skills and the honesty of your comments.
I could see your dissapointment at so little gain, I would be too but tuning is a funny thing eh....you have made the big leaps now it's a matter of chipping away at things to find the little extras. Not forgetting that real world rideability is what matters. I'm going to be thinking about this for a while. Imagine if you had an engine on a test bed and you just kept trying all the available combinations to see what you get. I'm ex engine development...Diesels...so I'm always interested in this kind of content.....you do great work 👍
Absolutely mate! I was a little disappointed as you could tell. I would like to try a few different exhaust systems and make a couple extra tweaks here and there. I ended up having to pull about 5 degrees of advance out of it to make the 155hp. Bikes feels absolutely great on the road. Very well mannered, doesn't surge or get choppy, it's just super smooth but when you open the throttle it comes to life!!!
@@MasterTechMiller Cheers...I'm wondering what it would have been like if you hadn't changed the cam as well now ha ha! If you were my local dealer I would definitely be buying a bike from you. Your customers are lucky to have someone who knows what he is doing.👍
@@stephenhamer1702 cheers mate!!! The 512 was designed around the stock comp ratio so I would like to think it would have made more torque down low and lifted the torque curve through the middle aswell but I don't think it would have made much more overall HP. Maybe I'll swap it out and give it a go if I have time🤔
Solid numbers Tommy. I cant wait for mine. It will be interesting to see if the difference in pipes alters the numbers at all. I'm keen to see the track times when you get it there. Cheers for the shout out mate!
Yeah mate absolutely!!!! Cant wait to build it for you either. I'm a little annoyed I couldn't quite reach that 160hp mark I was hoping for but that's the way it goes sometimes. Keen as to send this thing down the 1/4 too
@@MasterTechMiller Im happy it rides smooth. Its not all about the Ponies. Well for me anyway. Im sure given time and a bit of tinkering and changes you can achieve 160hp and as you pointed out in previous videos, different Dynos produce different numbers depending on altitude/weather etc. Plenty of variables to consider. Either way, the extra 5hp wont be missed on any QLD road 🤪
@@MasterTechMiller looking at your seat matching the bronze on the wheels, makes me think of changing my 2016 breakout CVO seat to the one the 2014 red CVO Breakout, thinking it will match up with the stripes on my black Pro-Street.
@@MasterTechMiller I mean, you don't get a CVO to "put" Non CVO elements on it- except EXHAUST of course, and I have Bassani turnouts and a stage 2 with 585 cams, making 101 HP/118 TRQ. Once I tame "her" I will retrain her to a 117 with a goal of 200 ft pounds of torque.
Hello. Excellent 3-part build series. Very informative and specially the relationship of the Cam timing and effect of actual (real) compression ratio versus static comp. ratio. I'd bet that with a Ward Ported/Polished Intake Manifold (Fuel Moto) you would not only reach goal of 160HP, but would probably see 164-165HP. TB upgrade? Additional fine tuning? Tom Miller, Hawthorne, Ca. USA 2021 Road Glide Special (Stock 114 w/S&S 2-1 Sidewinder Exhaust) and 2022 Low Rider S (Stock 117 for now)
Thank you for the positive feedback and support on the channel!💪 There are definitely a few things that could help push it over that 160hp mark, ported manifold being one of the options for sure. I am struggling against altitude aswell, because our city is 2200ft in elevation, I know for sure doing a dyno down at sea level I would have easily seen the 160hp. mark. Please hit the subscribe & notification bell buttons as I'm not a full time UA-camr & don't upload on a regular basis. There is content due to be finished and uploaded in the coming days though.
Going to need a aftermarket clutch with that one and brakes, suspension. That is a little much for the stock chassis, can't imagine driving that on the street and having control over that. But it is impressive no doubt.
I've got the exact same build, by the same Harley Tech. On a MY21 FXLRS. The Clutch is fine, the brakes are fine, the suspension is fine, the stock chassis is fine. Rode it 160km yesterday and it was an awesome set up. Complete control. No issues. Impressed is an understatement. Just sayin.
Love these bikes. They are so darned expensive though. What to do? I can get a used sports car for the same price or less? Having trouble rationalizing spending this much on a bike?
That will definitely be a consideration on the next shop build I do. Considering subscribing if you already haven't so you dont miss out on my next build👌🇦🇺🏍💨
With such higher outputs, why no chain conversions ? My mates 124 breakout kept stripping belts, he ended up changing over to chain & never had a problem since. Good channel you got here. Id like to see a few more builds on twins cams if thats possible. Cheers
We have found the stock belts are good for 160hp on thr Drag Strip whete traction plentiful. Don't get me wrong, the belts can and do strip. We have consistently ran low 10sec passes and even into the 9s with completely stock belts. Lots of clutch control is essential to not shock load the belt though. If you get aggressive you can easily strip a belt on a stock 114ci bike. Another contributing factor with belts is incorrect tension which will definitely lead to premature belt faliure. Thanks for the feedback on the channel 👍 I will try and get a video done a Twin Cam build asap.
The Fat Cat is better suited for larger displacement engines as the collector is larger in diameter than the RR2 & RR3 The Bassani is still an absolute great choice of pipe and will still produce good results. I just think the Fatcat is better for 128 & 131 builds
Hey mate, did you swap the throttle body as well to a larger one ? You didn't mention the heat cycles & run in prior to throwing it up on the dyno. Cheers subbed to you looking forward to the next video as I often wrench my own bikes which I actually enjoy doing
The 64mm throttlebody comes in the Stage IV kit mate. It got installed in part 1 with the initial build. Check those videos out if you haven't already. I know I didn't mention heat cycles in this video but all my engines get heat cycled prior to the dyno. I just show it in the videos because it's just a boring clip of the bike at idle and some slight revving.
The Lowrider S comes with pretty decent suspension from factory so it is not an essential upgrade. One would definitely benefit from a full Ohlins setup but the yeah, the stock stuff works pretty good for what it is.
Hey, Tommy. On my M8 128 build, I'll be sitting around 150hp/torque. I don't imagine going much over and I don't intend on racing this motorcycle at all. Can you give some thoughts on perhaps when you'd want to upgrade your OE clutch and compensator? I'm thinking about the Baker Compensator, Rekluse Clutch/Basket. I'd also consider an upgraded primary chain tensioner to handle the load. That's a lot of money to invest if you don't really think it's necessary. Please advise man!! Thank you!
In a street application such as yours that will be making around 150/150 the stock clutch is absolutely fine as long as you upgrade to the 1275N springs from Screamin Eagle. The stock compensator has it's limits and you should consider upgrading to billet replacement part from Cycle-Rama if and when you break your stock compensator. Other than that, you shouldn't have any dramas whatsoever on the street.
Awesome Tommy I could watch these videos all day really educational for me!! I’m now thinking of going domed pistons on FXDLS build to get the compression right up. Been looking at some of the Zipper’s Red shift cams they seem to pair up well with the D&D Fatcat. Did you ever consider one of there cams mate??
Thanks mate! I'm glad your enjoying the content and getting something from it 👍👌 I have used a couple of their cams before but they were smaller torque cams. I'm yet to use one of their big HP cams so I'm keen as to give em a go one day
@@MasterTechMiller They seem to be putting out some really good performing cams for the Milwaukee eight 💪🏼. I’ve got one of their 58mm air cleaners ready to go with and just looking at some of their piston kits for the higher comp. Can I ask what pistons do you usually go with for the compression builds?
have a 2020 lowrider s and a stage II screaming eagle kit with the HP cam and love it .. after watching your build videos i may look at getting the stage IV kit .. what would you suggest for the cam.. a HP or Torque cam as i like to ride hard solo but also ride with my partner and cruise around NZ
Thanks for watching !🇦🇺💪 If you decide to go with the stage IV 131 kit I would definitely recommend the Cyclerama CR512 Cam. It's the best of both worlds HP & TQ with the 131 kit.
Hi tommy. Love your content mate. Very specific on build theory. Im a little slow on compression tho. I have an APE high output kit on my 19 FXDR 128, running the c-rama 540. what will a set of these high comp pistons do to my setup? can you advise me what to order. makin 157hp 154 fp tq currently. Thanks
You will make a little bit more peak HP and your Torque curve should be slightly elevated across the entire rpm range. As for how much more power you'll make, I can't give you an accurate figure as many factors can effect this. Air temp & relative humidity on the day of the dyno, the tune itself and ignition advance and so on. The pistons are approx $950
Tommy, great series! I’ve followed you down this path with my Low Rider S... 475 to SE131/CR512, Bassami 2 into 1 50th anniversary, complete S&S internals and mini tear drop, Power Vision tuner. SE wide band sensors with a tweak from FuelMoto on the base tune that allowed me to use them. I pulled a 154tq and 139 hp (I’ve been limited on the dyno as the bike will not exceed 121 mph in any gear so we can’t “see” the real HP but suspect it’s in the 145hp range due to software deeper inside of the ECM that PV can’t get too shutting off fuel at that limited speed). How would you compare the feel of the two cams by your seat of the pants? I’m already at the point that it basically spins the rear OEM Michelin tire at will (will be switching to Avon on the next go)... and my arm sockets are always sore from the handle bars trying to pull my arms off! In my opinion.... the best bang for the buck is still the S&S 475 cam swap.... the lope and sound is by far the best out there... and on a light bike (and skinny girlfriend /wife) , it’s really fine.
I'm certain that with Power Vision in the Switches & Limits menu there is an option to turn off the speed limiter? I have seen it myself before which makes me wonder if there has been some sort of update that has removed that option? I have found that coming from the CR512 to CR540 that the mid range to top end is definitely where you feel the increase! Don't get me wrong, the CR512 is an absolute kickass camshaft aswell, it provided more a low end punch that faded ever so slightly from the mid range onwards. Couldn't agree more about the S&S 475 as a bolt in for the 114ci engine. Definitely produces a nice sound at idle and when matched with a good pipe can see north of 115hp & 120ft/lbs
@@MasterTechMiller we have gone through the PV both with FuelMoto and Dynajet... it could have something to do with the SE smart tune pro that I am still using in the setup. I’ll put more miles on it... will report back!
Awsum explanation on dynamic and static compression mate.im contemplating selling my 2013 wide glide stage 4 race kit and getting a low rider s.whats your thoughts?
Thanks mate. I hope you learned or got something out of it. Hands down the M8 engine is a far superior engine platform. The Twincam has definitely stood the test of time and has a HUGE aftermarket backing with performance parts ect. The Milwaukee8 engine has only been around for 4 years but has already surpassed what was considered to be a very high end Twincam build, the Milwaukee8 achieves this with a simple increase in compression with a cam shaft
Yeah 155hp & 151ft/lbs is definitely nothing to shy away from that for sure. Still just a little upset I didn't reach my intended goal of making 160Hp. Not to worry, I'm sure I'll be making a change or 2 to it soon and seeing what happens 🤔 I bet you're excited about the dyno tune!? You'll have to let me know how it goes👍
Loved this series. Wish you showed an overlay of the dyno runs. Did you lose torque in the 2500-3500 range or did the bump in compression keep the torque up down low?
Yeah I realised I totally missed that shot when I was doing the editing. If you follow me on Instagram (link in video description) I'll post a picture of the over lay graphs 👌
Good stuff, are you using wide band o2 sensors, and what tuner are you using, because I'm having a 131 built on my 2021 cvo road glide with a 585 cam and d and d big bore full exhaust system
Wideband tuning is always used on the dyno to achieve the best rideability conditions, fuel economy & maximum HP & TQ. Once the dyno tune is completed the bike uses its narrow band sensors. Due to the tune being dialed in on the dyno the narrow band sensor are more thank enough to keep the bike running great. I have been using the Techno Research software since it was released in Australia and I am very confident and fluent with it. However I can still use any other tuning software to tune bikes (Screamin Eagle, TTS, Power Vision, Direct Link, ect). Sounds like your going to have your hands full with that build!!! Let me know how it turns out 🇦🇺💪🏍💨
@@MasterTechMiller so what you think my dyno numbers will look like with my setup , using harley-davidson smart tune pro and the pro street tuner so that I can keep my warranty?
A completely stock 114ci bike without a tuning device would end up costing approximately $11,000 AUD. That figure can change slightly due to exhaust system chosen & what air filter is chosen. 131ci Crate engine sells for about $10,000 AUD but then you have labour costs, exhaust, air filter & tunjng device still to add. Keep in mind, effectively doubling the HP & TQ output (within a couple numbers) of any engine gets pricey.
Turn it into a 110ci with Screamin Eagle 260 cams & at least 11.5:1 compression ratio with a 58mm throttle body & put a decent 2-1 exhaust system on it if you already haven't and you'll make over 120HP
SO IN YOUR OPINION IM WANTING TO BUILD ONE WILL I START WITH A NEW ROAD KING OR THE LOW RIDER S WHICH ONE AND Y IM LOOKING FOR THE FXRT FAIRING STYLEI WANT BAGGER STYLE WITH SOME JUMP
My opinion would be the Lowrider S ! It's such an awesome platform to build off. The better front end suspension setup of the Lowrider S is far better than the conventional forks of the Roadking. Better styling options with the Lowrider S aswell. The Lowrider S is a better bike to build that custom performance looking bike. With the Roadking and trying to achieve the Performance Bagger look really takes away from the traditional look of the Tourers.
what kind of tuner are you using? i’m doing a 131 kit this winter on my 2021 street bob! i’m trying to figure out what to add to it when they put the kit on so i can get it all done in one shot
I only use Technoresearch software on all Harley models. They are the leaders in Harley-Davidson tuning software and devices as far as I'm concerned. Also, to my knowledge they are the only company that have the capability to tune 2021 model H-D bikes.
Oh ok. So what I did was install the 131ci stage 4 kit from Screamin Eagle & left it completely stock. Then in part 2 I swapped out the Screamin Eagle 517 Cam to the Cyclerama 512 cam. Then in part 3 I installed TMAN Hi Comp pistons and swapped the cam again to a Cyclerama 540. Just to be clear, there is absolutely no difference between in the 131ci Crate motor or the bolt on stage 4 kit. Both engines have exactly the same internallls and components. This build series was ment to show the benefits of using some quality aftermarket products with the 131ci kit and see how much more power & torqure is able to be achieved. In Australia, the Crate motor installed cost is around $10,000 (depending on your dealership hourly rate) & and to buy and have the stahe 4 kit installed at a H-D dealership is somewhere around $7500
@@MasterTechMiller sorry I didn't watch your videos in depth first! I bet you spent way less to get 114 to fast 131 than just having a factory 131 installed at dealer! Cheers!
It's all relevant to how the engine will be used. If it is going to be flogged every weekend at the drag strip it will most likely end up twisting. If it's just used to cruise around the streets and in the highways and the occasional 'play time' then it's going to hold up just fine. We have an option that utilises the factory crank. We have the crank halves split then a an upgraded rod bearing is install, a crank plug is used in place of the factory pin. The crank is then trued into place with a jig to under 2thou then finally the plug is welded so it can't move. We recommend install these cranks on engines that are subjected to harsh riding styles and race applications.
Pi x radius x radius x height. So 3.14 x 2.155 x 2.155 x 4.500 = 65.620 (there are 2 cylinders so, 65.620 x 2 = 131.240 So there for 131ci I'm not sure how you calculated your findings?
Thanks for the education!...I really mean that!...I'm new to Harleys having been a performance/sportbike guy for 41yrs. I'm looking at purchasing a new 2021/2022 low rider s and put a stage 4 in it. I'm use to buying a stage kit and not needing to purchase a predecessor. Looks like harley doesn't work that way. Looks like each stage builds on a previous stage. Am I guessing right on that?
I'll try and explain to help you understand. Stage 1 is when you swap the stock system & air filter assembly to aaftermarket Hi flow systems & by a tuning module so the ECM can be adjusted to add more fuel to higher flowing engine. Stage 2 is everything from stage 1 plus adding a performance Camshaft. Stage 3 is everything from stage 1 & 2 but also increasing the displacement by swapping the stock piston & cylinders to bigger bore oprions. Stage 4 is everything from stage 1, 2 & 3 but adding hi performance cylinder heads. If you have a stock bike and want to put a stage 3 kit onto it, the stage 3 kit will come with everything required to get the job done.
@@MasterTechMiller To be honest, I was wanting to know the best route if I kept my 96ci and just did head work, cams and exhaust and air intake. I just like the idea of having a badass 96ci bike.
@@techunity1401 well the key to high mph is Horsepower & gear ratio. If you want to keep it a 96ci, I would get the comp ratio as high as possible (over 12:1) with a huge set of cams that have lots of lift (600thou or more) & heaps duration on the intake. You will need to put a bigger intake manifold etc on it and most likely you'll be looking at the Screamin Eagle MVA Heads or something similar from the aftermarket. You will also need a good 2-1 exhaust system. In doing such a build will sacrifice the low end rideability.
@@MasterTechMiller thanks for your response man. Let’s say I have a $10000 budget. What would you recommend if I went all out and did a big bore kit and all?
Hey mate, I've had my hands full the last 8weeks! My wife & I just had a baby 🙂 I've got plenty of footage and content to be edited and put together but I'm just trying to juggle the time etc. Thanks for sticking around and waiting though💪🏍💨
I'm yet to see or use a decent one. There is far too many misconceptions out there about the M8 and crankcase breathing/ventilation. Engines (no matter the manufacturer) that are produced on a mass production scale will always have defects and or issues. I specialise in building engines from the crank up so I make sure the Cylinders are precision bored and honed, I ensure ring end gaps are set to exactly what they need to be. Along with further steps taken during the build process ensures am engine that is capable of the demands the rider throws at it, longevity & reliability. That is the benefit of a building an engine from the crank up. Unfortunately the M8 has had a rough start to life but I'm more than confident with it's stock breathing system.
@@MasterTechMiller How about on the twin cams? I have a 110b Screaming Eagle with just 1000 miles on it. I am considering putting a DK Customs catch can external breather system on it to extend the life of the engine.
Sounds like you might have a restriction somewhere. Heads,tb or exhaust, maybe all 3 are getting close to max capacity. Anyways great series, makes me want to up my stage 4 114 that makes 126hp and 131 tq
I'm certian that there is more left in the heads. If I was to shave 20thou off them and use a 30thou head gasket I'd make the 160hp mark easily. Your 114ci sounds like a nice build 👌 What cam shaft is it running at the moment?
When you go to a 128 or 131 kit producing 150ish HP/Torque on a 2020 Softail, do you recommend running the OE Crank/Flywheel? Are there other products you recommend upgrading at the same time for reliability?
I would highly recommend a Dark Horse Crankshaft that has been trued, plugged, balanced & welded if the build was to be race frequently. Running upto and just over 150hp is generally fine on the stock crankshaft, however it comes down to rider abuse and how they ride. Constant 'chopping' of the throttle, high rpm down shifts, & along with wide open up shifting are just some of the contributing factors to premature crank run out.
@@MasterTechMiller I don’t ride like that, I’m pretty easy on my stuff, don’t intend to race at all. But I would get on it a little bit once in awhile to experience the fun and power- no speeding tickets. Lol Anything else you’d recommend upgrading while in there?
@@flytheedge just the usual..... latest oil pump from Harley, Inner Cam Bearing, Cam Support plate, lifter guides (when big lift is used) which will be required in a 150hp build.
Hey Tommy: Great work my friend. Would you be interested in building an engine for me? I have so many questions. How can I contact you? Thanks so much.
Hi mate, I'm currently on leave for 2 weeks but you can phone me at the dealership on the 28th of June 0746342766. If you wish to email me in the meantime you can reach me at walkintall.tmiller@gmail.com 👍
Yeah definitely that 475 Cam, I haven't seen one make over 130hp yet. Made some really solid torque but! That should feel very solid in the street. A mate of mine has the 475 in a 124ci and made 128hp & 139ft/lbs with stock heads.
@@MasterTechMiller o yea out of the hole she rips I’ve got hand ported heads 64 mm TB 5.5 inj but I think that’s all I really need I just ride around on the street So I’d probably rather have torque than horsepower
T-Man performance. They are manufactured by Wiseco for T-Man. Have a look on his website www.tmanperformance.com/ you can find your specific bore size & compression ratio requirements there. The exact pistons I used in this bike were 4.312" with +8cc
I’m probably going to sound like an idiot, but if i am doing the stage iv 131 kit on my 2021 street bob how do i find out what specific pistons to get? i also wanna get that cycle-rama cr 540-2 cam cause that sounds amazing! thank you very much sir! i appreciate you and your videos very much!
@@johnnyr5221 You'll want the 4.312" size pistons with the +8cc dome. (Same as I installed on this bike). The Screamin Eagle 131 stage 4 kit uses 4.310" bore so the cylinders from that kit WILL NEED to honed to correct size a clearance as the T-Man pistons are slightly larger at 4.312" The CR540-2 is available through alphaperformanceengines.com.au if you are in Australia or directly from Cyclerama if you're in states from cycle-rama.com
@@MasterTechMiller one more question...what type of exhaust is on this bike? i apologize for the all the questions but thank you very much for everything
@@gimbochamp842 it sounds expensive but it has practically doubled the HP output of the engine. Keeping that in mind, ask yourself how much money would it cost to double the HP output of any other engine out there, car or motorcycle.
Great question! These cylinders have been precision torque plated & honed very accurately to accommodate these new pistons. I also check & adjust the piston ring gap. Once the engine is assembled, I heat cycle the engine 3 times to ensure everything has been up to operating temperature then cooled back down to ensure the rings are getting fully seated. By taking these steps the old 'run in' process doesn't really apply. Run in procedures are a very debatable topic. However if a customer is only wanting a 'bolt on kit' straight from the catalog, I recommend at least 500km worth of riding before the engine is tuned at wide open throttle to achieve max HP & TQ. The reason being is the cylinders & pistons from bolt on kits are manufactured and machined on production line and machined to a 'tolerance' there for allowing for differences. As mentioned above, having the cylinders precisely machined to accommodate the exact pistons takes care of this.
Alot more comfortable than the stock seat though. Good thing there is a vast range of genuine & aftermarket seats out there. There is something for everyone's taste & style
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
best video on you tube about static and corrected compression
I really enjoyed this whole build series. I just wanted to say thank you for the knowledge and sharing it with us.
I'm glad you enjoy the content and are able to get something out of it.
Cheers for the feedback mate🇦🇺💪🏍💨
You’re a true pro! So happy I found this video. The guys at my HD dealership can’t seem to answer my questions. Your videos (#1-3) not only answered my questions , but showed me so much more.
Thanks heaps for the positive feedback mate🙌👍 That right there is the main reason I started out with the UA-cam stuff.
I aim to go into more detail & explain things further with other videos in the future.
If there is any I can help with don't hesitate to ask me on here or shoot me Direct Message on Instagram (profile link in this video description) & I would be more than happy to try and help you out 🇦🇺💪🏍💨
Excellent tutorial, wicked bike. I have a 2022 Lowrider S 117 cube. I was going to stay 117" CR cam,5.5's, intake and pipe, but you're killing me with these big cube kits, and videos.👍👍👍
Thanks for watching 👍
Artwork not your forte. Explanation CR (static/dynamic) was spot on. Thank you
Congratulations on another great build
Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed the video & hopefully took something away from it
Warrenties about up on two of my bikes and am waiting for my CR 512’s to show up. Putting one in my 22 Street Glide and another in my 22 LowRider ST. Looks like they’ll both work out great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best explanation I've seen on compression ratios and the effects that cam timing has on end result. Well done Tommy.
New subscriber after stumbling across your chanel while researching DDHD for servicing and Stage 2 on a new to me 2015 Streetglide Special as it's full service history is there. Looks like it'll be in good hands. 👍
How many out there still love a Twin Cam!
Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed the video.
Congrats on the purchase mate, hope to see you in the store soon 👍
Awesome vid, Tommy. Thanks for explaining combustion ratio, it was really informative! Love your vids 👌
Thanks for the positive feed back💪
Glad you enjoyed the video and got something from it 🇦🇺💪🏍💨
Monster build, I would be very happy with that. Nice job man.
I think the CR512 in the 131 kit makes a perfect combination for great numbers.
Incremental power or torque from that base is gonna be tougher to obtain.
I appreciate your skills and the honesty of your comments.
Thanks for watching
The m8 is getting up there im still impressed with what tman got out of a tc124 at 5900rpm 156hp along time ago
Really enjoy your videos! Thanks for taking the time to make them. Beautiful bike too!
Thanks mate! I appreciate the awesome feedback and support!
I could see your dissapointment at so little gain, I would be too but tuning is a funny thing eh....you have made the big leaps now it's a matter of chipping away at things to find the little extras. Not forgetting that real world rideability is what matters. I'm going to be thinking about this for a while. Imagine if you had an engine on a test bed and you just kept trying all the available combinations to see what you get. I'm ex engine development...Diesels...so I'm always interested in this kind of content.....you do great work 👍
Absolutely mate! I was a little disappointed as you could tell.
I would like to try a few different exhaust systems and make a couple extra tweaks here and there.
I ended up having to pull about 5 degrees of advance out of it to make the 155hp.
Bikes feels absolutely great on the road. Very well mannered, doesn't surge or get choppy, it's just super smooth but when you open the throttle it comes to life!!!
@@MasterTechMiller Cheers...I'm wondering what it would have been like if you hadn't changed the cam as well now ha ha! If you were my local dealer I would definitely be buying a bike from you. Your customers are lucky to have someone who knows what he is doing.👍
@@stephenhamer1702 cheers mate!!!
The 512 was designed around the stock comp ratio so I would like to think it would have made more torque down low and lifted the torque curve through the middle aswell but I don't think it would have made much more overall HP.
Maybe I'll swap it out and give it a go if I have time🤔
Excellent series mate!
Thanks for checking it all out. Glad you enjoyed it
Solid numbers Tommy. I cant wait for mine. It will be interesting to see if the difference in pipes alters the numbers at all. I'm keen to see the track times when you get it there. Cheers for the shout out mate!
Yeah mate absolutely!!!! Cant wait to build it for you either.
I'm a little annoyed I couldn't quite reach that 160hp mark I was hoping for but that's the way it goes sometimes.
Keen as to send this thing down the 1/4 too
@@MasterTechMiller Im happy it rides smooth. Its not all about the Ponies. Well for me anyway. Im sure given time and a bit of tinkering and changes you can achieve 160hp and as you pointed out in previous videos, different Dynos produce different numbers depending on altitude/weather etc. Plenty of variables to consider. Either way, the extra 5hp wont be missed on any QLD road 🤪
@@moulis05 yeah mate absolutely!
When you build our new bike I am sure that you will make 160 Horse Power. Midnight Crimson is faster colour ;)
😂 Absolutely!
I love my crimson. Such a great color
Just stumbled across your channel, awesome videos mate
Thanks mate🍻
Very well done sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Thanks mate! Hope you enjoyed it
Great explanatory video with great content, despite your disappointments.
Thanks mate👌 Glad you are enjoying the content
@@MasterTechMiller looking at your seat matching the bronze on the wheels, makes me think of changing my 2016 breakout CVO seat to the one the 2014 red CVO Breakout, thinking it will match up with the stripes on my black Pro-Street.
@@MasterTechMiller I mean, you don't get a CVO to "put" Non CVO elements on it- except EXHAUST of course, and I have Bassani turnouts and a stage 2 with 585 cams, making 101 HP/118 TRQ. Once I tame "her" I will retrain her to a 117 with a goal of 200 ft pounds of torque.
@@markjaycox8811 absolutely mate!👌 I think that would look mint👍
@@MasterTechMiller If I do it, I will definitely post it here for you- You gave me the idea!
Hello. Excellent 3-part build series. Very informative and specially the relationship of the Cam timing and effect of actual (real) compression ratio versus static comp. ratio. I'd bet that with a Ward Ported/Polished Intake Manifold (Fuel Moto) you would not only reach goal of 160HP, but would probably see 164-165HP. TB upgrade? Additional fine tuning? Tom Miller, Hawthorne, Ca. USA 2021 Road Glide Special (Stock 114 w/S&S 2-1 Sidewinder Exhaust) and 2022 Low Rider S (Stock 117 for now)
Thank you for the positive feedback and support on the channel!💪
There are definitely a few things that could help push it over that 160hp mark, ported manifold being one of the options for sure.
I am struggling against altitude aswell, because our city is 2200ft in elevation, I know for sure doing a dyno down at sea level I would have easily seen the 160hp. mark.
Please hit the subscribe & notification bell buttons as I'm not a full time UA-camr & don't upload on a regular basis. There is content due to be finished and uploaded in the coming days though.
Great content Tommy thanks
Thabks mate 👌 Glad you're enjoying the content
great channel I love your love and true pro. I love the pipe also what is the name brand of them? sound great
Thanks for the great feedback mate.
The pipe is a D&D and the model is FATCAT
Wow! What a beast!!
It's VERY fun to ride!
Going to need a aftermarket clutch with that one and brakes, suspension. That is a little much for the stock chassis, can't imagine driving that on the street and having control over that. But it is impressive no doubt.
I've got the exact same build, by the same Harley Tech. On a MY21 FXLRS. The Clutch is fine, the brakes are fine, the suspension is fine, the stock chassis is fine. Rode it 160km yesterday and it was an awesome set up. Complete control. No issues. Impressed is an understatement. Just sayin.
Love these bikes. They are so darned expensive though. What to do? I can get a used sports car for the same price or less? Having trouble rationalizing spending this much on a bike?
Well mate, I guess it comes down to what you enjoy doing more. Riding a Harley-Davidson or driving around in some sports car.
@@MasterTechMiller Thanks.
great job
Great content Tommy.
Can try the WM8-9FX cam... couple other 131s with that cam making 165-170HP.
That will definitely be a consideration on the next shop build I do.
Considering subscribing if you already haven't so you dont miss out on my next build👌🇦🇺🏍💨
With such higher outputs, why no chain conversions ? My mates 124 breakout kept stripping belts, he ended up changing over to chain & never had a problem since.
Good channel you got here. Id like to see a few more builds on twins cams if thats possible.
Cheers
We have found the stock belts are good for 160hp on thr Drag Strip whete traction plentiful.
Don't get me wrong, the belts can and do strip.
We have consistently ran low 10sec passes and even into the 9s with completely stock belts. Lots of clutch control is essential to not shock load the belt though. If you get aggressive you can easily strip a belt on a stock 114ci bike.
Another contributing factor with belts is incorrect tension which will definitely lead to premature belt faliure.
Thanks for the feedback on the channel 👍
I will try and get a video done a Twin Cam build asap.
Enjoyed the series, question, D&D Fatcat vs Basssni RR, thoughts?
The Fat Cat is better suited for larger displacement engines as the collector is larger in diameter than the RR2 & RR3
The Bassani is still an absolute great choice of pipe and will still produce good results.
I just think the Fatcat is better for 128 & 131 builds
Hey mate, did you swap the throttle body as well to a larger one ?
You didn't mention the heat cycles & run in prior to throwing it up on the dyno.
Cheers subbed to you looking forward to the next video as I often wrench my own bikes which I actually enjoy doing
The 64mm throttlebody comes in the Stage IV kit mate. It got installed in part 1 with the initial build. Check those videos out if you haven't already.
I know I didn't mention heat cycles in this video but all my engines get heat cycled prior to the dyno. I just show it in the videos because it's just a boring clip of the bike at idle and some slight revving.
What about readjusting/tuning the suspension for the dramatic increase in power?
The Lowrider S comes with pretty decent suspension from factory so it is not an essential upgrade. One would definitely benefit from a full Ohlins setup but the yeah, the stock stuff works pretty good for what it is.
Hey, Tommy.
On my M8 128 build, I'll be sitting around 150hp/torque. I don't imagine going much over and I don't intend on racing this motorcycle at all.
Can you give some thoughts on perhaps when you'd want to upgrade your OE clutch and compensator? I'm thinking about the Baker Compensator, Rekluse Clutch/Basket. I'd also consider an upgraded primary chain tensioner to handle the load. That's a lot of money to invest if you don't really think it's necessary. Please advise man!! Thank you!
In a street application such as yours that will be making around 150/150 the stock clutch is absolutely fine as long as you upgrade to the 1275N springs from Screamin Eagle.
The stock compensator has it's limits and you should consider upgrading to billet replacement part from Cycle-Rama if and when you break your stock compensator. Other than that, you shouldn't have any dramas whatsoever on the street.
@@MasterTechMiller Thank you, Sir!!! Will do!
What size throttle body? Nice build as always good #
64mm
@@MasterTechMiller Would like to see a 70mm on one of your 131” or 128” builds. Just see the dyno difference
@@RGHD912 there is a new 68mm one from Screamin Eagle that comes on the 135
Awesome Tommy I could watch these videos all day really educational for me!! I’m now thinking of going domed pistons on FXDLS build to get the compression right up. Been looking at some of the Zipper’s Red shift cams they seem to pair up well with the D&D Fatcat. Did you ever consider one of there cams mate??
Thanks mate! I'm glad your enjoying the content and getting something from it 👍👌
I have used a couple of their cams before but they were smaller torque cams. I'm yet to use one of their big HP cams so I'm keen as to give em a go one day
@@MasterTechMiller They seem to be putting out some really good performing cams for the Milwaukee eight 💪🏼.
I’ve got one of their 58mm air cleaners ready to go with and just looking at some of their piston kits for the higher comp. Can I ask what pistons do you usually go with for the compression builds?
I'm subscribing and this video is excellent. 155 hp is damn good for a vtwin
Thanks for the support and Sub mate 👍🇦🇺🏍💨
@@MasterTechMiller You're welcome
have a 2020 lowrider s and a stage II screaming eagle kit with the HP cam and love it .. after watching your build videos i may look at getting the stage IV kit .. what would you suggest for the cam.. a HP or Torque cam as i like to ride hard solo but also ride with my partner and cruise around NZ
Thanks for watching !🇦🇺💪
If you decide to go with the stage IV 131 kit I would definitely recommend the Cyclerama CR512 Cam. It's the best of both worlds HP & TQ with the 131 kit.
Hi tommy. Love your content mate. Very specific on build theory. Im a little slow on compression tho. I have an APE high output kit on my 19 FXDR 128, running the c-rama 540. what will a set of these high comp pistons do to my setup? can you advise me what to order. makin 157hp 154 fp tq currently. Thanks
You will make a little bit more peak HP and your Torque curve should be slightly elevated across the entire rpm range.
As for how much more power you'll make, I can't give you an accurate figure as many factors can effect this. Air temp & relative humidity on the day of the dyno, the tune itself and ignition advance and so on.
The pistons are approx $950
Curious, why does it dip around 2500 in each run? Would a smaller throttle body help in lower rpm's?
Great video !
Thanks mate! Let me know if I can help with anything in the future 🇦🇺💪🏍💨
Tommy, great series! I’ve followed you down this path with my Low Rider S... 475 to SE131/CR512, Bassami 2 into 1 50th anniversary, complete S&S internals and mini tear drop, Power Vision tuner. SE wide band sensors with a tweak from FuelMoto on the base tune that allowed me to use them.
I pulled a 154tq and 139 hp (I’ve been limited on the dyno as the bike will not exceed 121 mph in any gear so we can’t “see” the real HP but suspect it’s in the 145hp range due to software deeper inside of the ECM that PV can’t get too shutting off fuel at that limited speed).
How would you compare the feel of the two cams by your seat of the pants? I’m already at the point that it basically spins the rear OEM Michelin tire at will (will be switching to Avon on the next go)... and my arm sockets are always sore from the handle bars trying to pull my arms off!
In my opinion.... the best bang for the buck is still the S&S 475 cam swap.... the lope and sound is by far the best out there... and on a light bike (and skinny girlfriend /wife) , it’s really fine.
I'm certain that with Power Vision in the Switches & Limits menu there is an option to turn off the speed limiter?
I have seen it myself before which makes me wonder if there has been some sort of update that has removed that option?
I have found that coming from the CR512 to CR540 that the mid range to top end is definitely where you feel the increase!
Don't get me wrong, the CR512 is an absolute kickass camshaft aswell, it provided more a low end punch that faded ever so slightly from the mid range onwards.
Couldn't agree more about the S&S 475 as a bolt in for the 114ci engine. Definitely produces a nice sound at idle and when matched with a good pipe can see north of 115hp & 120ft/lbs
@@MasterTechMiller we have gone through the PV both with FuelMoto and Dynajet... it could have something to do with the SE smart tune pro that I am still using in the setup. I’ll put more miles on it... will report back!
@@dp_NYC no worries mate 👌 Looking forward to finding out how you go
This a last one there buys type of bike! How are the engine temps when riding around?
Engine temps are not overly effected nor do they seem to run hotter.
@@MasterTechMiller Thank you!
Awsum explanation on dynamic and static compression mate.im contemplating selling my 2013 wide glide stage 4 race kit and getting a low rider s.whats your thoughts?
Thanks mate. I hope you learned or got something out of it.
Hands down the M8 engine is a far superior engine platform.
The Twincam has definitely stood the test of time and has a HUGE aftermarket backing with performance parts ect.
The Milwaukee8 engine has only been around for 4 years but has already surpassed what was considered to be a very high end Twincam build, the Milwaukee8 achieves this with a simple increase in compression with a cam shaft
@@MasterTechMiller cheers man
excellent video tommy 150 150 thats not shabby at all my bike goes to dyno tomorrow morning kinda nervous hope i put it together right we will see
Yeah 155hp & 151ft/lbs is definitely nothing to shy away from that for sure. Still just a little upset I didn't reach my intended goal of making 160Hp.
Not to worry, I'm sure I'll be making a change or 2 to it soon and seeing what happens 🤔
I bet you're excited about the dyno tune!?
You'll have to let me know how it goes👍
@@MasterTechMiller i will let you no. it sure sounds bad ass just put that bassani /Chris rivas pipe on it man that pipe barks
@@roncoburn7771 nice! The next build I'm doing is almost Identical except it will be running a Bassani road rage 2. I'm keen tonsee how it goes.
Loved this series. Wish you showed an overlay of the dyno runs. Did you lose torque in the 2500-3500 range or did the bump in compression keep the torque up down low?
Yeah I realised I totally missed that shot when I was doing the editing.
If you follow me on Instagram (link in video description) I'll post a picture of the over lay graphs 👌
@@MasterTechMiller thanks I'll check out Instagram
@@cjlspeed I will post the pic tomorrow when I'm at work 👌
Good stuff, are you using wide band o2 sensors, and what tuner are you using, because I'm having a 131 built on my 2021 cvo road glide with a 585 cam and d and d big bore full exhaust system
Wideband tuning is always used on the dyno to achieve the best rideability conditions, fuel economy & maximum HP & TQ.
Once the dyno tune is completed the bike uses its narrow band sensors. Due to the tune being dialed in on the dyno the narrow band sensor are more thank enough to keep the bike running great.
I have been using the Techno Research software since it was released in Australia and I am very confident and fluent with it. However I can still use any other tuning software to tune bikes (Screamin Eagle, TTS, Power Vision, Direct Link, ect).
Sounds like your going to have your hands full with that build!!! Let me know how it turns out 🇦🇺💪🏍💨
@@MasterTechMiller so what you think my dyno numbers will look like with my setup , using harley-davidson smart tune pro and the pro street tuner so that I can keep my warranty?
Which Tman pistons did you use on the 131
If I brought you a stock 114 what would be the total cost involved with all supporting parts & labor?
A completely stock 114ci bike without a tuning device would end up costing approximately $11,000 AUD. That figure can change slightly due to exhaust system chosen & what air filter is chosen.
131ci Crate engine sells for about $10,000 AUD but then you have labour costs, exhaust, air filter & tunjng device still to add.
Keep in mind, effectively doubling the HP & TQ output (within a couple numbers) of any engine gets pricey.
@@MasterTechMiller Thanks for your reply.
cant afford a new low rider yet , so whats the best i can do for my 103tc with stage 2
Turn it into a 110ci with Screamin Eagle 260 cams & at least 11.5:1 compression ratio with a 58mm throttle body & put a decent 2-1 exhaust system on it if you already haven't and you'll make over 120HP
SO IN YOUR OPINION IM WANTING TO BUILD ONE WILL I START WITH A NEW ROAD KING OR THE LOW RIDER S WHICH ONE AND Y IM LOOKING FOR THE FXRT FAIRING STYLEI WANT BAGGER STYLE WITH SOME JUMP
My opinion would be the Lowrider S ! It's such an awesome platform to build off. The better front end suspension setup of the Lowrider S is far better than the conventional forks of the Roadking.
Better styling options with the Lowrider S aswell.
The Lowrider S is a better bike to build that custom performance looking bike.
With the Roadking and trying to achieve the Performance Bagger look really takes away from the traditional look of the Tourers.
what kind of tuner are you using? i’m doing a 131 kit this winter on my 2021 street bob! i’m trying to figure out what to add to it when they put the kit on so i can get it all done in one shot
I only use Technoresearch software on all Harley models.
They are the leaders in Harley-Davidson tuning software and devices as far as I'm concerned. Also, to my knowledge they are the only company that have the capability to tune 2021 model H-D bikes.
How much did the motor build cost from buying the 131 to buying all the extras? I was guessing like 10k?
Are you asking the difference between buying and installing the crate motor VS doing the build ?
@@MasterTechMiller I guess I thought you bought a 131 m8 and modified it, my bad.
Oh ok. So what I did was install the 131ci stage 4 kit from Screamin Eagle & left it completely stock.
Then in part 2 I swapped out the Screamin Eagle 517 Cam to the Cyclerama 512 cam.
Then in part 3 I installed TMAN Hi Comp pistons and swapped the cam again to a Cyclerama 540.
Just to be clear, there is absolutely no difference between in the 131ci Crate motor or the bolt on stage 4 kit. Both engines have exactly the same internallls and components.
This build series was ment to show the benefits of using some quality aftermarket products with the 131ci kit and see how much more power & torqure is able to be achieved.
In Australia, the Crate motor installed cost is around $10,000 (depending on your dealership hourly rate) & and to buy and have the stahe 4 kit installed at a H-D dealership is somewhere around $7500
@@MasterTechMiller sorry I didn't watch your videos in depth first! I bet you spent way less to get 114 to fast 131 than just having a factory 131 installed at dealer! Cheers!
Whats the chance of the stock crank holding up to that kind of power?
It's all relevant to how the engine will be used. If it is going to be flogged every weekend at the drag strip it will most likely end up twisting.
If it's just used to cruise around the streets and in the highways and the occasional 'play time' then it's going to hold up just fine.
We have an option that utilises the factory crank. We have the crank halves split then a an upgraded rod bearing is install, a crank plug is used in place of the factory pin. The crank is then trued into place with a jig to under 2thou then finally the plug is welded so it can't move.
We recommend install these cranks on engines that are subjected to harsh riding styles and race applications.
Check the 131ci Breakout build video on my channel. I installed one of the welded cranks into that bike.
With a bore of 4.31" and stroke of 4.5" and two cylinders this makes 142 cu" so where does the 131 come from?
Pi x radius x radius x height.
So 3.14 x 2.155 x 2.155 x 4.500 = 65.620 (there are 2 cylinders so, 65.620 x 2 = 131.240
So there for 131ci
I'm not sure how you calculated your findings?
@@MasterTechMiller My bad. My calculator stuffed up............or was it the operator???🤔🤔🤔
1st! Have the popcorn ready 🍿
Hope you enjoy mate!
@@MasterTechMiller Another well explained & detailed vid you have put together. Anything over 140hp is bragging rights 😉.
Cheers 🇦🇺👊🏼
@@azwroe 🇦🇺💪🏍💨💨💨💨
Thanks for the education!...I really mean that!...I'm new to Harleys having been a performance/sportbike guy for 41yrs. I'm looking at purchasing a new 2021/2022 low rider s and put a stage 4 in it.
I'm use to buying a stage kit and not needing to purchase a predecessor. Looks like harley doesn't work that way. Looks like each stage builds on a previous stage. Am I guessing right on that?
I'll try and explain to help you understand.
Stage 1 is when you swap the stock system & air filter assembly to aaftermarket Hi flow systems & by a tuning module so the ECM can be adjusted to add more fuel to higher flowing engine.
Stage 2 is everything from stage 1 plus adding a performance Camshaft.
Stage 3 is everything from stage 1 & 2 but also increasing the displacement by swapping the stock piston & cylinders to bigger bore oprions.
Stage 4 is everything from stage 1, 2 & 3 but adding hi performance cylinder heads.
If you have a stock bike and want to put a stage 3 kit onto it, the stage 3 kit will come with everything required to get the job done.
What’s the best thing I could do to my 96ci 2008 Dyna Super Glide? I want it to be fast in the top end. Go high miles per hour!
What's your budget?
@@MasterTechMiller To be honest, I was wanting to know the best route if I kept my 96ci and just did head work, cams and exhaust and air intake. I just like the idea of having a badass 96ci bike.
@@techunity1401 well the key to high mph is Horsepower & gear ratio.
If you want to keep it a 96ci, I would get the comp ratio as high as possible (over 12:1) with a huge set of cams that have lots of lift (600thou or more) & heaps duration on the intake.
You will need to put a bigger intake manifold etc on it and most likely you'll be looking at the Screamin Eagle MVA Heads or something similar from the aftermarket.
You will also need a good 2-1 exhaust system.
In doing such a build will sacrifice the low end rideability.
@@MasterTechMiller thanks for your response man. Let’s say I have a $10000 budget. What would you recommend if I went all out and did a big bore kit and all?
@@techunity1401 remove the 96ci engine and install the Screamin Eagle 120R crate motor
Hey bud any idea on the next update video?
Hey mate, I've had my hands full the last 8weeks! My wife & I just had a baby 🙂
I've got plenty of footage and content to be edited and put together but I'm just trying to juggle the time etc.
Thanks for sticking around and waiting though💪🏍💨
@@MasterTechMiller well your videos are the talk around the grill, so looking forward to it! Congrats on the new member of the family!
@@alwayssearching4760 thanks mate! I really appreciate the feedback!
Do these Harleys launch good on the street or at a drag strip?
See this video for how they perform on the drag strip ua-cam.com/video/uisLudNKHdU/v-deo.html
@@MasterTechMiller Cool. Thank you.
What do you think of external breather systems?
I'm yet to see or use a decent one. There is far too many misconceptions out there about the M8 and crankcase breathing/ventilation.
Engines (no matter the manufacturer) that are produced on a mass production scale will always have defects and or issues.
I specialise in building engines from the crank up so I make sure the Cylinders are precision bored and honed, I ensure ring end gaps are set to exactly what they need to be.
Along with further steps taken during the build process ensures am engine that is capable of the demands the rider throws at it, longevity & reliability.
That is the benefit of a building an engine from the crank up.
Unfortunately the M8 has had a rough start to life but I'm more than confident with it's stock breathing system.
@@MasterTechMiller
How about on the twin cams?
I have a 110b Screaming Eagle with just 1000 miles on it. I am considering putting a DK Customs catch can external breather system on it to extend the life of the engine.
@@muslmutt deffinently worth putting one on for sure 👌
Sounds like you might have a restriction somewhere. Heads,tb or exhaust, maybe all 3 are getting close to max capacity. Anyways great series, makes me want to up my stage 4 114 that makes 126hp and 131 tq
I'm certian that there is more left in the heads. If I was to shave 20thou off them and use a 30thou head gasket I'd make the 160hp mark easily.
Your 114ci sounds like a nice build 👌 What cam shaft is it running at the moment?
@@MasterTechMiller a little extra squeeze in the heads is never a bad thing, it’s running the zippers redshift 472 cam with a d&d billet cat.
what 2into1 exhaust is on the fxlrs in the intro?
D&D Fatcat
What are you running for fuel down under?
Our 'Premium' is 98RON
i know it's not your bike, but your tall like me, how does that seat feel riding it ? does it push you forward too much ?
Nah, not at all. The mid mount pegs feel great with it.
I wouldn't like to do too many miles on the seat though. Comfort is sacrificed for the look
@@MasterTechMiller Thank you !
not sure if I missed it but what exhaust is that?
This is the D&D Fatcat
@@MasterTechMiller thanks. Sounds great.
When you go to a 128 or 131 kit producing 150ish HP/Torque on a 2020 Softail, do you recommend running the OE Crank/Flywheel? Are there other products you recommend upgrading at the same time for reliability?
I would highly recommend a Dark Horse Crankshaft that has been trued, plugged, balanced & welded if the build was to be race frequently.
Running upto and just over 150hp is generally fine on the stock crankshaft, however it comes down to rider abuse and how they ride.
Constant 'chopping' of the throttle, high rpm down shifts, & along with wide open up shifting are just some of the contributing factors to premature crank run out.
@@MasterTechMiller I don’t ride like that, I’m pretty easy on my stuff, don’t intend to race at all. But I would get on it a little bit once in awhile to experience the fun and power- no speeding tickets. Lol
Anything else you’d recommend upgrading while in there?
@@flytheedge just the usual..... latest oil pump from Harley, Inner Cam Bearing, Cam Support plate, lifter guides (when big lift is used) which will be required in a 150hp build.
@@MasterTechMiller thank you very much, Sir!
This may be a stupid question, how bad did it effect gas mileage?
I tuned the cruise speeds at 14.4:1 so the bike still gets around 300km per tank when your crusing between 80km/hr & 110km/hr
Hey Tommy: Great work my friend. Would you be interested in building an engine for me? I have so many questions. How can I contact you? Thanks so much.
Hi mate, I'm currently on leave for 2 weeks but you can phone me at the dealership on the 28th of June 0746342766.
If you wish to email me in the meantime you can reach me at walkintall.tmiller@gmail.com 👍
hey tommy got it dyno tuned 130 hp 155 torque 128 with a 475 cam
horsepower was down more than i thought must be that s&s 475 cam
Yeah definitely that 475 Cam, I haven't seen one make over 130hp yet. Made some really solid torque but! That should feel very solid in the street.
A mate of mine has the 475 in a 124ci and made 128hp & 139ft/lbs with stock heads.
@@MasterTechMiller o yea out of the hole she rips I’ve got hand ported heads 64 mm TB 5.5 inj but I think that’s all I really need I just ride around on the street So I’d probably rather have torque than horsepower
@@roncoburn7771 oh absolutely mate! More TQ with a decent amount of HP is always a winner! Well done with your build mate 👍👍
@@MasterTechMiller thanks tommy
Try a larger exhaust pipe. Have one made if none are available. You’ll get your 160 hp and more.
What are the pistons that you put in there?
T-Man performance. They are manufactured by Wiseco for T-Man. Have a look on his website www.tmanperformance.com/
you can find your specific bore size & compression ratio requirements there.
The exact pistons I used in this bike were 4.312" with +8cc
I’m probably going to sound like an idiot, but if i am doing the stage iv 131 kit on my 2021 street bob how do i find out what specific pistons to get? i also wanna get that cycle-rama cr 540-2 cam cause that sounds amazing! thank you very much sir! i appreciate you and your videos very much!
@@johnnyr5221 You'll want the 4.312" size pistons with the +8cc dome. (Same as I installed on this bike).
The Screamin Eagle 131 stage 4 kit uses 4.310" bore so the cylinders from that kit WILL NEED to honed to correct size a clearance as the T-Man pistons are slightly larger at 4.312"
The CR540-2 is available through alphaperformanceengines.com.au if you are in Australia or directly from Cyclerama if you're in states from cycle-rama.com
@@MasterTechMiller one more question...what type of exhaust is on this bike? i apologize for the all the questions but thank you very much for everything
@@johnnyr5221 D&D Fatcat
what r u using for a tuner
Direct Link Key.
@@MasterTechMiller thunder max dynojet power cammander what do u use
@@markferguson9981 Direct Link Key.
If you look up Technoresearch.com you'll see they have 'Maximus' & 'Direct Link'
I use direct link.
What footpegs are those?
They are genuine Harley-Davidson ones '80 Grit' part number 50501383
So how much miles per hour could do now ?
Bike will do 155mph now
@@MasterTechMiller that’s crazy ,and how much did it cost to make these adjustments?
Approximately $10,000 Australian dollars
@@gimbochamp842 it sounds expensive but it has practically doubled the HP output of the engine. Keeping that in mind, ask yourself how much money would it cost to double the HP output of any other engine out there, car or motorcycle.
Fuck that sounds good
Change out that intake and use higher octane fuel
dont you run them in for 500miles whats your take on running in new jug s and pistons
Great question! These cylinders have been precision torque plated & honed very accurately to accommodate these new pistons. I also check & adjust the piston ring gap.
Once the engine is assembled, I heat cycle the engine 3 times to ensure everything has been up to operating temperature then cooled back down to ensure the rings are getting fully seated.
By taking these steps the old 'run in' process doesn't really apply.
Run in procedures are a very debatable topic.
However if a customer is only wanting a 'bolt on kit' straight from the catalog, I recommend at least 500km worth of riding before the engine is tuned at wide open throttle to achieve max HP & TQ. The reason being is the cylinders & pistons from bolt on kits are manufactured and machined on production line and machined to a 'tolerance' there for allowing for differences.
As mentioned above, having the cylinders precisely machined to accommodate the exact pistons takes care of this.
@@MasterTechMiller thanks mate
Drool. Drool
Port the heads and SCREAMIN' EAGLE HEAVY BREATHER EXTREME AIR CLEANER
Maybe
What about the 1 dislike 🤣 do you owe your old paper boy for a week Tommy?
🤣😂 Not sure what the go of that is hey.....can't please them all I guess
Those seats ruin the look
Alot more comfortable than the stock seat though.
Good thing there is a vast range of genuine & aftermarket seats out there. There is something for everyone's taste & style
Someone got money 💵